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AN ARCHAEOLOGY OF THE IRON CURTAIN<br />

Many of the buildings at the crossings remain today but their usage has<br />

mostly changed. Most appear abandoned while a small number have been<br />

converted for domestic or official use. At the former crossing points in the<br />

study area the buildings are still standing but are no longer used. At the<br />

crossings by Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina and San Andrea/Vrtojba 1 the<br />

border police still have a presence but it is much scaled down and the<br />

majority of the time there is no staff to be seen. During my two fieldwork<br />

visits to the area I passed the border numerous times and was never<br />

stopped. Only on a couple occasions did I actually see any border staff near<br />

the border. At the Casa Rossa/Rožna Dolina crossing the cars are still<br />

directed through lanes but all road blocks and barriers have been removed.<br />

At San Pietro/Šempeter most of the crossing infrastructure has been removed<br />

on the Slovenian side and the only traces that remain are marks in<br />

the ground from the roof that previously stretched across the road here. The<br />

building that was previously used for the border guards here now look like<br />

any other building in this domestic neighbourhood. On the Italian side the<br />

previous customs building is abandoned and deteriorating. The roof that<br />

previously covered the road on the Italian side has also been removed. The<br />

smaller buildings that functioned as customs and border police headquarters<br />

at the two Solcano/Solkan crossings, Rafut/Pristava and Merna/Miren<br />

are still present but there is no longer any activity here. At Rafut/Pristava<br />

there are still barriers on the Italian side (painted in the Italian colours) to<br />

stop traffic getting through at what is now a pedestrian crossing. At the San<br />

Gabrielle/Erjavčeva ulica crossing there is still a high roof over the Italian<br />

side customs buildings (Figure 44). At this same crossing only one of the<br />

previous three small huts placed in between oncoming and going traffic<br />

remain on the Italian side. Traces of the two other huts can still be seen in<br />

the ground where the tarmac has been patched together. All barriers have<br />

been removed and the signs that instruct people to stop for customs have<br />

been replaced with signs about the speed limits within Italy.<br />

As the border between what is now Slovenia and Italy is more open, crossing<br />

the border has become easier and is also encouraged in places. Many<br />

border crossings are now unmanned and vegetation is slowly taking over the<br />

structures and tarmacked areas. Shops and amenities such as petrol stations<br />

and casinos located near border crossings demonstrate how other actors have<br />

moved in to supply a new demand as one actor’s control of the border<br />

decrease and other actors now influence the behaviour by the border.<br />

102

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