FASHION CITY - Where Milan

Dining
which is the speciality of the house. For dessert:
chocolate sorbet. Closed on Sat at lunch and on
Sun. €€€. Via Sacchi, 8. T: 02 862100. M1 Cairoli.
Map e4
Emiliana Tortellini – This tiny restaurant,
originally famous for producing and selling
fresh pasta, only has a few tables. The young
patronne, Nadia Magnani, had the idea of
placing a few tables in her shop where,
at lunch, clients can savour a number of
fabulous pasta or other dishes. Good service
and a very interesting selection of wines.
Always closed in the evening and on Sun and
Mon. €€. Via Ariberto, 17. T: 02 58109707.
M2 Sant’Agostino. Map D6
Fico d’India – True Sicilian cuisine in Milan:
Messina-style capon, “maccheroni alla
Norma”, tuna fillet with onion sauce and fish
cous cous. Closed on Sat at lunch. €€€.
www.ristorantealficodindia.it. Via R. Bonghi,
11. T: 02 84892887. off map
GIANNI E DORINA – This charming, romantic
restaurant boasts a feminine touch thanks to
Ester, its talented chef, and Dorina Chionna,
patronne and renowned sommelier.
Traditional dishes, wonderfully genuine
ingredients and menus designed especially for
vegetarians, vegans and celiacs. Closed on Sat
at lunch and on Sun. €€. www.gianniedorina.
com. Via G. Pepe, 38. T: 02 606340. M2 Garibaldi
FS. Map E1
Girarrosto – An historic destination in the heart
of Milan and a celebrity favourite. Must-try dishes
include “penne” with Tuscan chicken livers and
Florentine tripe. Closed on Sat and on Sun at
lunch. www.algirarrosto.com. Corso Venezia, 31.
T: 02 76000481. M1 Palestro,
M3 Montenapoleone. MAP G4
and paintings of marine subjects for one of the
best fish restaurants in town at affordable prices.
Shellfish hors d’oeuvres, fish pasta dishes, followed
by grilled fish or mixed seafood frys. No credit
cards accepted. Closed on Sun evening and on
Mon. €€€. Via Trivulzio, 26 corner of via Fontanesi.
T:02 40071445. M1 Gambara. off map
Malavoglia – Typically Sicilian cuisine. A historic
venue and one of the first to be know for its
Southern fare. House specialities include fresh fish,
its famous pasta con le sarde (pasta with sardines)
and its tempting cannoli and cassata. Open
evenings only. Closed on Sun. Booking advisable.
www.ristorante-imalavoglia.com. €€€€. Via Lecco,
4. T: 02 29531387. M1 Porta Venezia. Map H3
MASUELLI SAN MARCO – Milanese, Lombard and
Piedmontese cuisine at this historic Milan-based
trattoria which is still run by the family. The
restaurant has been welcoming customers in the
same way for almost a century and the menu, as
was customary in those days, still offers several
fixed dishes. Monday “boiled meat”, Tuesday,
“tripe”, Thursday, “cassoeula”, Friday cod. One of
the house favourites is the classical “risotto alla
milanese”. Great selection of wines. Closed on Sun
and on Mon at lunch. €€€. www.masuelli-trattoria.
com. Viale Umbria, 80. T: 02 55184138. off map
Matarel – Time has stood still in this restaurant
with its antique furniture and fabulous food in
SPOTLIGHT
which Milanese cuisine takes centre stage. Worth
a try are risotto alla Milanese, breaded cutlets and
roast veal. Closed on Tues and on Wed at lunch.
€€€. Via L. Solera Mantegazza, 2 corner of Corso
Garibaldi, 75. T: 02 654204. M2 Moscova. Map E3
Matteoni (I) – Run by the Matteoni family since
1924, it has always been a favourite with writers,
poets and academics. A prevalently Tuscan
menu inc soups, meat and mushrooms. Closed
on Sun. www.imatteoni.it. €€€. www.imatteoni.
it. Piazza Cinque Giornate, 6 corner of viale Regina
Margherita. T: 02 5463520. Map H5
Mela Verde – Pugliese cuisine and wonderfully
fresh fish. The restaurant has a slightly pizzeriastyle
informal atmosphere and serves fabulous
Catalan-style prawns, fried anchovies and
home-made pasta like Tarantina-style orecchiette
(tomato, mussels and clams) or super seafood
spaghetti and classic fish grills or mixed fried
seafood platters. Closed on Wed and on Thurs at
lunch. €€€. Via Monviso, 36. T: 02 33600971. Map D1
mistral – Originally established as a delicatessen in
the 60’s and later transformed into a trattoria, this
small charming venue in the heart of Milan offers a
traditional menu based on the best home-cooked
cuisine. It has a good selection of fresh fish and
an interesting assortment of vegetarian dishes.
For a real taste of Milan, its risotto dishes are an
absolute “must”. Pasta, bread and desserts are all
Giulio Pane e Ojo – A taste of Rome in Milan
(but also in other cities such as Munich and
New York). Always crowded and patronized by a
young, trendy clientele, it offers the best recipes
of Roman tradition. This restaurant is popular
on account of its good quality food, friendly
atmosphere and fair prices. Closed on Sun.
www.giuliopaneojo.com. €€. Via L.A. Muratori, 10.
T: 02 5456189. M3 Porta Romana. MAP H7
Isola dei Sapori – A good place to take a
break from shopping. It offers all the flavours of
Sardinia with fresh fish dishes and roast suckling
pig (order in advance). Closed on Sun and on
Mon at lunch. www.ristoranteisoladeisapori.it.
€€€. Via Anfossi, 10. T: 0254100708. off map
L’ALTRA ISOLA – A stylish though simple trattoria
and a real “home from home” thanks to the
food and welcome given by its patron, Gianni
Borelli, boasting over forty years of experience
in the business. Milanese and Lombardy
recipes executed to perfection. In addition to
“cassoeula”, which is the speciality of the house,
cold cuts, “risotto”, tripe, “ossobuchi”, “stracotto”
(pot roast) with polenta and “zabaione”. Closed
on Sat at lunch and on Sunday. €€€. Via E. Porro,
8/b. T: 02 60830205. M3 Maciachini. off map
LEO – Three intimate dining rooms featuring a
pleasantly demodè air, trattoria-style furniture
Dining on a Tram
Much more than panoramic, this is itinerant! The restaurant that
offers the most complete view of Milan is nothing other than a
beautifully restored vintage tram called ATMosfera, a play on
words combining the company’s acronym ATM (Azienda Trasporti
Milanesi – local public transport company) with the idea of an
atmospheric setting. In addition to the sophistication of its décor,
it offers three types of menu (meat, fish and vegetarian). The tramrestaurant
leaves every evening (except on Mon) at 8pm from
piazza Castello, corner of via Beltrami, to which it returns after
about 2 hours of relaxed sightseeing by night. During the tour,
dinner is served at a set price of €65. Booking is essential: ask your
concierge or call the toll-free number 800.80.81.81 (Mon 9am-
12am; Tues-Sun 11am-7pm) www.atm-mi.it.
50 W H E R E M I L A N I NO VEMBER 2010