FASHION CITY - Where Milan

Dining
ALFREDO GRAN SAN BERNARDO – Founded by
the famous Alfredo Valli, an authentic legend of
Italian cuisine, this is one of the best places to
savour real Milanese cuisine. “Must try” dishes
are “risotto”, “cotoletta alla Milanese”, sautéed
kidneys and cassoeula. Zabaione and finger
biscuits are the perfect end to a perfect meal.
Closed on Sun. €€€. Via G.A. Borgese, 14.
T: 02 3319000. Map C1
ALLA CUCINA DELLE Langhe – This stylish
restaurant, with its wooden decor, large mirrors
and discretely placed tables, is a favourite with
VIPs on account of its ultra-glam, Corso Como
location. The house speciality are “tajarin”, a type
of pasta resembling spaghetti. Closed on Sun.
€€€. www.trattoriaallelanghe.com. Corso Como,
6. T: 02 6554279. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map F2
Alla Collina Pistoiese – An historic restaurant
serving excellent Tuscan cuisine. Meat and fish
specialities, traditional soups and, of course,
the “must-eat” “fiorentina” or fresh, grilled fish.
Closed on Fri and on Sat at lunch. €€€. www.
allacollinapistoiese.com. Via Amedei, 1.
T: 02 877248. M3 Missori. Map F6
Al Less – The signature dish at this restaurant is
“bollito misto” (boiled meat) served with all the
traditional sauces. Al Less is also a nursery so
don’t be surprised by the fact that they also sell
plants, particularly aromatic ones, and books on
plants and healthy eating. Closed on Mon and
on Tues at lunch. €€€. Viale Lombardia, 28.
T: 02 70635097. M2 Piola. off map
Amici Miei – Typically Italian tavern offering traditional
Lombardy fare. A hot favourite with students from
the Bocconi Università which is just around the
corner. Closed on Sun at lunch. €€€. Viale Bligny, 42.
T: 02 58321197. Map F7.
Antica Osteria Il Giardinetto – Located in the
Navigli district, this elegant, family-run restaurant
offers clients a warm, welcoming atmosphere.
The menu comes direct from the Emilia Romagna
region. Try favourites like its divine “gnocco fritto”, a
type of pan-fried bread served with cold cuts as a
starter. Only serves fresh pasta. Closed on Sat and
at lunch on Sun. €€€. www.osteriailgiardinetto.it.
Via Tortona, 19. T: 02 8393807. M2 Porta Genova FS.
Map C7
Antica trattoria della Pesa – A seductive
ambiance with its retro atmosphere and typical
belle époque furnishings. The restaurant is,
in fact, one of Italy’s most historic venues and
offers traditional Milanese and Lombardy cuisine,
interpreted with genuine flair. A curiosity: a plaque
outside commemorates a visit by Ho Chi Min,
president of Vietnam during the famous, bloody
war. Closed on Sun. €€€. Viale Pasubio, 10.
T: 02 6555741. M2 Garibaldi FS. Map E2
Aurora – A nineteenth century interior in winter
and a fresh outdoor area for alfresco dining on hot
summer evenings. Located in the vibrant design
area, its offers Northern Italian food with typical
cold meats, fresh cheeses and substantial main
courses. Don’t forget to end your meal with Aurora’s
pear and chocolate cake. Great selection of wines
from the Piedmont region. Closed on Mon. €€€.
Via Savona, 23. T: 02 89404978. M2 Sant’Agostino.
Map C7
Bagutta – One of Milan’s oldest restaurants, Bagutta
is famous, among other things, for a literary prize
that was once awarded here. In fact, it is also for this
reason that it is patronized by VIPs and intellectuals.
Its top-class cuisine (Tuscan and Milanese) can
also be savoured in the garden. House specialities
include: la “fiorentina”, the famous Florentine
T-bone steak, and soups. Closed on Sun. €€€.
www.bagutta.it. Via Bagutta 14, T: 02 7600090.
M1 San Babila. Map G4
BARONE (IL) – Sardinian cuisine at its best, thanks
to premium ingredients and the skilled culinary
techniques of its chef, Luigi Piccolillo. The
restaurant’s “must try” dishes must be booked
in advance: “porceddu a carraxau” (suckling pig
cooked under a stone) and “taccolas di Capoterra”.
Also worth a try are lamb, stuffed pasta, fish and
desserts. Closed on Sun. €€€. www.ilbaronesardo.it.
Viale Espinasse, 43. T: 02 33001883. off map
Berti – Open since 1866, for over thirty years it has
been run by Gigi Rota, the charismatic patron
whose passion and professionalism have made it a
very vibrant venue: several dining rooms filled with
an old-world Milanese atmosphere and one of the
most beautiful and highly sought-after gardens
in the city. Berti’s is one of the best addresses for
Milanese and Lombard cuisine. Closed on Sat at
lunch. €€€. www.daberti.it. Via F. Algarotti, 20.
T: 02 6694627. M2 Gioia, M3 Sondrio. Map G1
Boeucc – Its name in Milanese dialect means “hole,
hiding place”. In 1848, before the “Five Days of
Milan” when the citizens rebelled against Austrian
rule, it was used as a hiding place where Italian
patriots met in secret, pretending to be dining
innocuously. Unequalled in terms of history,
atmosphere and sumptuous furnishings, this
beautiful restaurant offers impeccable service and
fabulous food. A favourite, since the very beginning,
with celebrities and, in particular, musicians, it still
serves the “antipastino del pescatore” (seafood
antipasto) which was the favourite dish of maestro
Arturo Toscanini. Closed at lunch on Sat and on
Sun. €€€. www.boeucc.it. Piazza Belgioioso, 2.
T: 02 76020224. M1 San Babila. Map F4
Cantina di Manuela/1 – Boasting a friendly
though trendy atmosphere, this restaurant is
renowned for its wine list. Offering over 400 labels,
it sells some thirty different types of wine by the
glass, accompanied by an excellent selection of
cold meats and cheeses, pasta and risotto dishes.
Closed on Sun. €€€. www.lacantinadimanuela.it.
Via G.C. Procaccini, 41. T: 02 3452034. Map C1
Cantina di Manuela/2 – Though part of the
same chain as the previous one, this location has a
different owner and a different philosophy. At
the bar you can have a glass of wine or choose a
bottle from the rack. It also has a pleasant outdoor
area and a handful of tables. Dishes include a
number of fish platters and a rare Parmesan cheese
that is matured for as many as 60 months. The
delicacies served in the restaurant are also available
for take-out and range from foie gras to cold meats,
from pastries to wine. Closed on Sun. €€.
www.lacantinadimanuela.it. Via R. Sanzio, 16.
T: 02 43983048. M1 Wagner. Map A4
Cavallini – An elegant atmosphere and stylish
courteous service. For years, a reference point for
upscale Tuscan cuisine, it offers an array of fine fare.
Dishes to try include classic “crostini” and farro
soup. Delicious meat courses and a great wine
list. Closed on Sat at lunch and on Sun. €€€.
www.ristorantecavallini.it. Via M. Macchi, 2. T: 02
6693174. M2-M3 Centrale FS. Map h1.
Chic ‘n Quick – Bistrot owned by famous,
two star Michelin chef, Claudio Sadler who
recently opened this minimalist, charming,
contemporary, though elegant restaurant,
in the vicinity of his more famous venue. It
offers simple though high quality cuisine with
highlights including grilled specialities and raw
fish. Great wine cellar. Closed on Sun and on
Mon. €€. www.sadler.it. Via A. Sforza, 77. T: 02
89503222. M2 Romolo. off map
Conte Ugolino da Marino – An historic
Milanese venue, serving authentic Tuscan
cuisine. Opened in 1935, by “nonna” Irma Biondi,
it is now run by her grandchildren, daughter
and son-in-law. Excellent traditional soups and
fish starters. The house specialities continue to
be their famous “bistecca alla fiorentina” and
an assortment of grilled meats. Closed on Sun.
€€€€. Via C. Beccaria, 6. T: 02 876134. M1-M3
Duomo. Map G5
Dolce Vita – Patronized by students and
professors from the nearby Università Statale,
this restaurant is a good choice for both the
young and the connoisseurs of good food. New
signature dishes include scallops and golden
prawns, foie gras terrine, sautéed kidneys with
“riso al salto” and, each day, a different dish-ofthe-day.
Home-baked bread and fresh pasta.
Closed on Sun. €€€. Via Bergamini, 11. T: 02
58303843. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5
DONGIÓ – This restaurant, owned by the Criscuolo
family, is the best place to discover cuisine from
Calabria, one of the most beautiful regions in
Southern Italy. It is renowned for its starters,
the real pride of its chefs, and its “caciocavallo
silano”, a typical cheese found in the south. Also
worth trying is its “tiramisù”. Closed on Sun. €€.
Via B. Corio, 3. T: 02 5511372. M3 Porta Romana.
Map G6
Don Lisander – For more than sixty years, a
fashionable restaurant situated right in the
heart of Milan, just a short distance from the
Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere
and impeccable service. The menu features
traditional Lombardy and regional Italian
cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For
dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with
persimmon sauce. www.ristorantedonlisander.it.
€€€. Via A. Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130.
M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4
El Crespin – A combination of a trattoria and a
restaurant, this is the perfect place to savour
either Milanese food or creative fish dishes. Try the
ossobuco with risotto, the costoletta alla Milanese
(breaded veal cutlet), the linguine with lobster and
the fillet of sea bream cooked Sicilian-style. Closed
on Sun. €€€. www.elcrespin.it. Via Castelvetro, 16/18.
T: 02 33103004. Map c1
EMILIA & CARLO – Just a few steps from the Castello
Sforzesco, it offers a good fish and meat menu.
Highlights include codfish with red onion jam
and the real “fiorentina” (Florentine-style-steak),
48 W H E R E C i t y N a m e I MOnth Year