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Truffle Time
As rare as precious gold, truffles play a leading role
in the most sophisticated Italian fall cuisine. Look for
them in Milan or in the Langhe, home to the highly
sought-after White Truffle of Alba
Hunting
The appeal of truffles also lies in
hunting for them. The “Casa del
Trifulau” (House of the Truffle Hunter
in Piedmontese dialect) organizes
guided tours (with an interpreter).
After the hunt, with the dogs Diana
and Birba, you will be able to enjoy a
delectable, truffle-based snack. The
whole tour lasts for about 3 hours
and costs €35. Booking required,
also via mail at: tuber.pico@virgilio.
it. www.lacasadeltrifulau.com Strada
Canelli 1, Costigliole d’Asti (Asti),
T: 3472991832. Approx. 130 km
from Milan.
from the Cimitero Monumentale,
near Garibaldi station and the ultraglam
corso Como. Mon-Sat 8.30am-
7.30pm. Piazzale Antonio Baiamonti,
3. T: 02 313089.
Eating
The truffle is a delectable seasonal
delicacy which, in autumn, can be
found on the menus of all Milanese
restaurants offering haute cuisine
and in many traditional ones as
well (see listings from p.46). Among
others, this extreme delicacy can be
found at Alla cucina delle Langhe
in corso Como (p. 48) whose name
refers to its link with the home of
truffles, but also at the Trussardi
alla Scala restaurant (p. 47), situated
just behind the famous theatre, and
at Cracco (p. 46), one of the most
classic Milanese restaurants, just a
stone’s throw from the Duomo.
Already known in the 18th century as “the diamond of
gastronomy”, the truffle is considered the undisputed
king of haute cuisine. Italy offers several of the most
sought-after varieties of this special tuber including,
first and foremost, the white truffle of Alba, originating
from the Langhe, in Piedmont, little over one hour’s
drive from the south-west of Milan. It is, in fact, here
that the Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco
d’Alba (www.fieradeltartufo.org) takes place. Now
in its 80th year, the fair is scheduled to run until
14 November. A “not-to-be-missed” event for
gourmets and the ideal place for a day trip, if you plan
on staying in Milan a little longer. It offers tastings,
product demonstrations and, at times, even record
auctions: last year, a truffle weighing little less than one
kilo was sold for approximately 150,000 dollars. If, on
the contrary, you don’t have time to go to the Langhe,
do not despair: Milan offers an array of places where
you can purchase, taste and discover everything you
need to know about truffles. Here are some interesting
ideas.
Purchasing
If you’ve opted for the day
trip, remember that the World
Market of the White Alba Truffle
takes place in Alba, during the
International Fair, in the Cortile
della Maddalena, on Saturday and
Sunday from 9am to 8pm.
If, on the contrary, you decide to
stay in Milan, take off time to visit
Il Chiosco di Mimì. In spite of not
looking particularly chic, this kiosk
is “the” truffle boutique that every
Milanese gourmet worth his salt
knows about. Just a short distance
Even as a Dessert
Experiment
If you are a real truffle aficionado,
or if you feel like doing something
a little crazy, why not try
“tartufoterapia” (truffle therapy), a
face treatment involving the use of
truffles, indicated as an anti-aging
remedy against brown skin spots.
The treatment is purely seasonal
and depends on the truffle harvest.
It costs about €80 per session.
If you plan on going to a luxury
wellness centre (p. 67), ask the staff
for information. Who knows, you
might be lucky!
The Italian word “tartufo” (truffle) is often found on menus
under the dessert listing. A daring use of this sharp tasting
tuber No, you’ve got it wrong! What you see on the dessert
list is a type of ice-cream, or rather a “semifreddo” which only
resembles the truffle in terms of its outside appearance. Its
rough surface is made from chocolate and can be “black”
(bitter chocolate) or “white” (white chocolate). The Italians love it
in the Caption “affogato 7 pt, al Myriad caffè” version, Pro i.e. “drowned” in black coffee.
Semi-bold Semi-ext
14 W H E R E m i l a n I no vember 2010