28.01.2015 Views

May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society

May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society

May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Fins & Tales<br />

Serving <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> and the surrounding area since 1960<br />

In This Issue: Volume 50, Issue 5<br />

Adventures in DIY: The Bottle Trap - page 6<br />

PlantED Tank: The Cover Up - page 14<br />

Are Overflow Boxes Safe - Page 9<br />

Next Meeting: Tuesday, <strong>May</strong> 4th at 7:30 pm<br />

! ! ! Frank Aguirre speaks about Synodontis cats<br />

Official Publication of the <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />

Visit us at http://www.kwas.ca


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

In This Issue...<br />

Name That Fish<br />

CAOAC Convention Details<br />

DIY Bottle Trap<br />

PlantED: The Cover Up<br />

From The Prez’s Desk<br />

Page 4<br />

From The Editors’ Desk<br />

Page 4<br />

Local Store Directory<br />

Page 5<br />

<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show Results<br />

Did it really take 20+<br />

guesses for our<br />

membership to figure<br />

out “Goldfish” for<br />

April’s Name That<br />

Fish Yes it did, but<br />

only because Ed’s been<br />

challenging us for<br />

months with very rare<br />

fish. No one suspected<br />

he’d bring feeders as a<br />

joke :) Well it was<br />

APRIL after all.<br />

Page 10<br />

The <strong>2010</strong> CAOAC<br />

convention will be held<br />

at Sheridan College this<br />

coming <strong>May</strong>. Phil has<br />

assembled a lot of<br />

details into a handy<br />

reference on page 9.<br />

We hope to see another<br />

large contingent of<br />

KWAS members this<br />

year. See you there!<br />

Jayne breaks out her<br />

engineering skills and<br />

treats us to a seminar on<br />

catching fish without<br />

tearing apart a tank.<br />

Just be sure not to<br />

watch the fish or they’ll<br />

tease you mercilessly.<br />

Page 6<br />

Ed discusses ground<br />

cover for your planted<br />

tank and Zenin presents<br />

photos from the new<br />

planted display tank at<br />

Big Al’s <strong>Aquarium</strong><br />

Services in <strong>Kitchener</strong>.<br />

Page 14<br />

Page 5<br />

Are Overflow Boxes Safe<br />

Page 9<br />

Exchange Editor’s Report<br />

Page 11<br />

KWAS Meeting Minutes<br />

Page 14<br />

Ed Talks Ponds<br />

Page 17<br />

Fry Tank<br />

Page 20<br />

Page 19<br />

Upcoming Fishy Events<br />

On the front cover<br />

• <strong>May</strong> 1 - Cambridge Auction<br />

This Boesemani Rainbow fish was photographed by Brad Smith.<br />

• <strong>May</strong> 4 - KWAS General Meeting<br />

• <strong>May</strong> 11 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />

• <strong>May</strong> 21-23 - CAOAC Annual Convention<br />

• June 1 - KWAS Pizza and Raffle Night<br />

• June 8 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />

• June 26 - Sarnia Guest Speaker ‘ Gary Lange’<br />

• June 28 - KWAS Summer Picnic<br />

• September 7 - KWAS General Meeting<br />

• September 14 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />

• September 18 - Sarnia Show and Auction<br />

• September 26 - London Show and Auction<br />

• October 5 - KWAS General Meeting<br />

• October 12 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />

• October 24 - OKTOBERFISH Show and Auction<br />

Get your cameras out! Your fish or tank could be featured in an upcoming<br />

edition of Fins & Tales! Simply email your high-res photos and a description<br />

to us at cam.turner@gmail.com. Photos must be at least 2400 pixels wide by<br />

1800 pixels tall to be printable. Bigger is better. Questions Email us.<br />

2


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

KWAS Mission Statement<br />

The <strong>Kitchener</strong> <strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> (KWAS) is a nonprofit<br />

organization whose primary goals are to:<br />

• Further the hobby and study of tropical fish and related<br />

endeavours<br />

• Inspire the preservation of aquatic life<br />

• Maintain a meeting place for its members<br />

• Develop and maintain a library on aquatic life<br />

• Promote fellowship among its members<br />

• Seek out and establish a kinship with other clubs with<br />

similar objectives<br />

KWAS is a charter member of CAOAC:<br />

The Canadian Association of <strong>Aquarium</strong> Clubs<br />

Fins & Tales is published 10 times each year between the<br />

months of September and June for KWAS members. Opinions<br />

expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not<br />

necessarily those of the Fins & Tales editors or KWAS. The<br />

mention of any product does not constitute an endorsement by<br />

Fins & Tales or KWAS members.<br />

Reprint Policy — Articles from this publication may be printed<br />

in a not-for-profit publication provided credit is given to both<br />

the author and KWAS. Copies of the reprint must be sent to<br />

both the author and KWAS. Any other use is prohibited without<br />

the written consent of KWAS.<br />

Exchange Program — KWAS exchanges newsletters with other<br />

clubs across North America. If your club is interested in<br />

becoming a part of this program please contact our exchange<br />

editor by mail or e-mail zenin@golden.net<br />

Correspondence — Please send all correspondence to the<br />

<strong>Kitchener</strong> <strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, Box 38037 256 King<br />

Street North, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, Ontario, Canada N2J 4T9.<br />

Submission of Articles<br />

Cover images and articles can be submitted for publication in<br />

Fins & Tales by all hobbyists and must be submitted digitally.<br />

Priority is given to KWAS members and to topics that have not<br />

been recently covered. Not all submissions will be printed in the<br />

month they are submitted. The editors of Fins & Tales may be<br />

required to edit your submission for length, spelling, grammar<br />

and/or clarity. Please indicate if you would like to proof read<br />

the edited version prior to official publication.<br />

Submissions are due via email to the editors (editor@kwas.ca)<br />

by the 15 th day of the month for publication in the upcoming<br />

issue of Fins & Tales. Please contact us if you have any<br />

questions or would like suggestions or feedback on possible<br />

article topics.<br />

President !<br />

Vice President !<br />

Treasurer !<br />

Secretary !<br />

Past President !<br />

KWAS Officials 2008 - 2009<br />

Executive<br />

Geoff Money (gmoney@golden.net)<br />

Phil Maznyk (webmaster@kwas.ca)<br />

Brad McClanahan (nasfan@3web.com)<br />

Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />

Kevin Reimer (kevin.reimer@sympatico.ca)<br />

Board of Directors<br />

Editor/Publisher ! Cameron Turner, Tanya Morose<br />

! (cam.turner@gmail.com)<br />

Exchange Editor ! Zenin Skomorowski (zenin@golden.net)<br />

Membership Chair Mary Lynne Lucier (marylynnel@yahoo.ca)<br />

Auction Chair ! ***** Open *****<br />

Oktoberfish Chair ! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />

Librarian ! Terry Clements<br />

Lunch Committee !***** Open *****<br />

Programs ! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />

Raffle Chair ! Katie McClanahan (nasfan@3web.com)<br />

B.A.P Chair ! Ryan Barton (rabar10@yahoo.com)<br />

H.A.P Chair ! Ed Koerner (edkoerner@sympatico.ca)<br />

CAOAC Reps ! Phil Maznyk (and one position open still)<br />

Name That Fish ! Ed Koerner (edkoerner@sympatico.ca)<br />

Jar Show ! Dave Boehm (fishman@golden.net)<br />

Webmaster ! Phil Maznyk (webmaster@kwas.ca)<br />

Pet Store Liaisons! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />

! Zenin Skomorowski (zenin@golden.net)<br />

Advertise in Fins & Tales<br />

The KWAS Executive and BOD voted to try a bit of an<br />

experiment starting November of 2009. We will no longer run<br />

explicit ads based on feedback from our readership. Instead we<br />

will focus more completely on content written by our members<br />

(Hint! Hint!). As an alternative we have included a Local Fish<br />

Store (LFS) Directory that lists all the businesses that support<br />

KWAS either through donations, sponsorships or discounts for<br />

club members. Check the table of contents on the opposite page<br />

to learn where that directory is this month. If you would like to<br />

discuss or provide feedback on this policy please email our<br />

editor(s) or any member of the executive/BOD. Thanks.<br />

Join KWAS<br />

<strong>2010</strong> Membership Fees<br />

! ! Adult ! Family<br />

! 1 Year ! $25 !$30<br />

! 2 Years ! $48 !$58<br />

! 3 Years! $71 !$86<br />

! 4 Years ! $92 ! $112<br />

! 5 Years ! $100!$120<br />

Junior Members (under the age of 18) $10 per year<br />

3


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

From the President’s Desk<br />

Hello again everyone,<br />

Hello All.<br />

From The Editors’ Desk<br />

As I write this months Presidents page I realize that I am a full 5<br />

days behind our newsletter editors deadline. I hope this gets<br />

published. Like many of you I am juggling a lot with both our<br />

own club and CAOAC. With the warmer weather finally here,<br />

it’s time to get outside and take care of the yard and get the<br />

patio ready for the summer months. <strong>May</strong> is a busy time at our<br />

own club as our annual elections will be held this meeting. If<br />

you haven’t notified Mary Lynne that you are running for one<br />

of the executive positions, please do so now. Members in good<br />

standing have until the beginning of our <strong>May</strong> meeting to either<br />

be nominated by another club member or nominate themselves<br />

for one of the 4 executive positions.<br />

Last months guest speaker Jerry Draper (Tropical Fishroom in<br />

Brantford) really put on a great presentation on breeding<br />

techniques. I learned some very interesting facts listening to his<br />

presentation. Thanks Jerry, you are always welcome in<br />

<strong>Kitchener</strong>. This month another friend of our club, Frank Aguirre<br />

will visit us to present a talk on the Synodontis catfish species.<br />

Frank’s talks are always filled with great information, photos<br />

and of course his passion for all species shines when he talks.<br />

I’m not sure what happened last month with the jar show but<br />

with our 4 main competitors absent, Dave had a nice easy<br />

night. No wonder he was able to concentrate so well and win<br />

both the Name that fish species. Let’s not forgot how much fun<br />

it is to show your fish and bring something in this month.<br />

Loaches and killifish are up and of course AOV.<br />

On Saturday <strong>May</strong> 1st our neighbour club CDAS holds their<br />

spring auction. Sunday <strong>May</strong> 2nd, has London on deck with<br />

their event. Of course <strong>May</strong> is convention month and I’m sure<br />

looking forward to it. Our club is up for a number of awards<br />

again this year. Let’s hope we can pull it off again. I think we’ve<br />

got the stuff it takes! It looks like KWAS is going to have a great<br />

contingent of members going to Oakville which is a mere 45<br />

minute drive from <strong>Kitchener</strong>. If you haven’t purchased your<br />

ticket or booked your room if you are staying over, please do it<br />

now. Come support your club and enjoy a weekend full of great<br />

guest speakers from all over North America. Details can be<br />

found in this newsletter and on the CAOAC website<br />

www.caoac.ca.<br />

I tempted fate last month. I boasted that we managed to get the<br />

issue done early. Bad idea. As I write this there are less than 48<br />

hours to the general meeting and this issue is far from done.<br />

April has been a write off for our family. Two trade shows for<br />

Tanya, two business trips for Cam, plus all the regular work<br />

and family commitments. Oh well, maybe in June<br />

As a result of our INSANE April there is very little chance that<br />

you’ll get a printed copy of this newsletter before June’s<br />

meeting, but you’ll need something to tide you over for 2<br />

months right Why not two issues at a time You can thank us<br />

later.<br />

Sadly, this is also a month where Rein has broken his streak for<br />

TMA. Hopefully TMA #52 will return next month before we<br />

take our summer break.<br />

In contrast however we have two new contributors. Jayne<br />

Glazier follows in Ryan Barton’s shoes with a continuation of<br />

what I hope will become the regular “Adventures in DIY”<br />

column every issue. I’ve already lined up a few more DIY<br />

articles, so it seems likely we’ll get at least five in a row for this<br />

feature and more if you write something too. Hint.<br />

The second contributor is Melad from our forums. Inspired by<br />

his epic threads I asked for a summary of the overflow boxes<br />

discussion. It appears on page 9 for your reading pleasure.<br />

Thanks Melad!<br />

Lastly, Ed returns from a bit of a hiatus with a PlantED Tank<br />

article about ground cover and bonus article about ponds.<br />

Other than that, I guess I should get back to actually<br />

completing this issue eh I hope to see/meet many of you at the<br />

CAOAC convention this year. It’ll be my first and I’m looking<br />

forward to it.<br />

See you at the meeting/convention,<br />

Cam Turner & Tanya Morose<br />

Newsletter Editors, KWAS<br />

See you at the meeting!<br />

Phil Maznyk<br />

Interim President (former VP), KWAS<br />

4


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Store Directory<br />

If you know of any stores we’re missing, please email the BOD.<br />

<strong>Aquarium</strong> Services (Big Al’s) Ω Φ! <strong>Kitchener</strong>, Ontario<br />

www.BigAlsCanada.com!(519) 894-1810<br />

508 Wilson Ave.<br />

The Fish Sempai Ω Φ!<br />

www.FishSempai.com !(519) 648-9992<br />

By Appointment Only<br />

Breslau, Ontario<br />

Mc’s Petworld Ω Φ!<br />

Cambridge, Ontario<br />

Email: mcspetworld@rogers.com!(519) 241-2691<br />

Currently By Appointment Only<br />

Tropical Fish Room Ω Φ!<br />

Brantford, Ontario<br />

www.TropicalFishRoom.ca!(519) 756-6225<br />

166 Grand River Ave.<br />

John’s Fish Food Ω!<br />

<strong>Kitchener</strong>, Ontario<br />

www.JohnsFishFood.com!(519) 897-1567<br />

By Appointment Only.<br />

The Fish Bowl Ω!<br />

Elmira, Ontario<br />

www.inTheFishBowl.net!(519) 669-0202<br />

120 Oriole Parkway, Unit #4<br />

Garden Supermart Ω!<br />

Cambridge, Ontario<br />

www.GardenSupermart.com!(519) 624-2554<br />

Homegrown Hydroponics Ω Φ!<br />

www.Hydroponics.ca!(519) 648-2374<br />

79 Woolwich Street South, Unit #4<br />

Breslau, Ontario<br />

Moore Water Gardens Φ!<br />

Port Stanley, Ontario<br />

www.MooreWaterGardens.com!(519) 782-4052<br />

PO Box 70, 4683 Sunset Rd.<br />

The Fish Place Φ!<br />

N. Tonawanda, NY<br />

141 Robinson St., 14120! (716) 693-4411<br />

<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show<br />

Each year KWAS holds a Jar Show competition where members<br />

bring their most prized fish to our monthly meetings to share<br />

with others, compete and teach. The various classes and basic<br />

rules are laid out below, but first the <strong>2010</strong> Standings. After four<br />

months of competition this is where we stand:<br />

! Seniors:! Points<br />

! Zenin Skomorowski!18<br />

! Alan Smiley!12<br />

! Tony Gibbons!4<br />

! Al Ridley!4<br />

! Juniors:! Points<br />

! Jonathon Samson!44<br />

! Griffin Quigley!6<br />

There is a limit of two fish per person per class. You may also<br />

bring any species of the featured classes in any other month;<br />

they will be entered in any other variety also known as AOV. If<br />

you have any other non-fish creatures, or odd-ball fish, they can<br />

be entered in the AOV class. If you have any questions about<br />

the Jar Show Competition please contact Dave Boehm.<br />

<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show Classes:<br />

January: !<br />

February: !<br />

March: !<br />

April: !<br />

<strong>May</strong>: !<br />

Dwarf Cichlids / Rainbow fish<br />

Rift Lake Cichlids<br />

Characins<br />

Catfish<br />

Loaches & Killifish<br />

Also a BIG thank you to the following manufacturers for<br />

donating goods to our 2009 Oktoberfish Auction:<br />

Rolf C Hagen, Danner Manufacturing, Brown Trout Publishing,<br />

Martin Mills Inc., Doctors Foster and Smith, Plecocaves.com,<br />

Casco Inc, Tetra & SeaChem (Star <strong>Aquarium</strong> Products).<br />

June: !<br />

September: !<br />

October: !<br />

November: !<br />

Cyprinids<br />

Livebearers<br />

Large American Cichlids<br />

Anabantids & Plants<br />

Ω KWAS member discount of 10% or more (does not apply to tanks or glass).<br />

Φ Supports KWAS through participation in our annual Oktoberfish event.<br />

We highly encourage you to check the above websites for store hours.<br />

Everyone is encouraged to participate. For tips on how to enter,<br />

what to bring and what to look for ask any of the competitors<br />

above. They obviously know a thing or two about it :).<br />

5


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Adventures in DIY: The Bottle Trap<br />

Submitted by Jayne Glazier, KWAS (jandj.glazier@sympatico.ca). Photos provided by the author.<br />

It has always been my private conviction that any man who<br />

pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.<br />

~John Steinbeck<br />

I found this great quote on a fishing related website and it put<br />

me in mind of the challenge of trying to catch aquarium fish in<br />

heavily furnished tanks. Everyone from LFS staff to private<br />

hobbyists and breeders have had the battle of trying to catch<br />

fish that really don't want to be caught. And losing.<br />

So you want to catch some fish. And your tank looks like this:<br />

Why do we set a fish trap If you have ever seen a minnow<br />

trap or lobster pot it is based on that design. It relies on the<br />

advanced technological knowledge of thousands of years of<br />

human intelligence that fish can't find their way out of narrow<br />

openings when the opening is inverted into a container.<br />

Nobody told the fish that theory but surprisingly it does work<br />

8/10 times. It all comes down to a battle of wits.<br />

The Bottle Trap. The benefits to this method are plentiful. We<br />

can go away from the tank and allow the fish's natural hunger/<br />

greed/curiosity to catch it/them for us. It allows absolutely<br />

less stress for the fishkeeper, more time to spend on aquabid or<br />

talking to our fishhead friends and is almost certainly less<br />

taxing for the fish. On top of that you don't have to move the<br />

bubbling diver or treasure chest figurines.<br />

So how do we go about making an inexpensive and effective<br />

fish trap First: gauge the size of the fish involved. Is it small<br />

Is it large Fish girth guesstimation is the first skill needed.<br />

Can that fish(es) swim through the hole in the lid of a water<br />

bottle Pop bottle Bread Box How many are you looking at<br />

catching at once Do you want to catch 3 guppies but not your<br />

full sized plecos If you need anything larger than a harpoon to<br />

catch the fish then this may not work for you.<br />

You could tear down the whole tank. It has only taken you 3<br />

months to grow it in and that fish that needs relocating is in<br />

dire straits....or you are in dire straits because you want the fish<br />

gone<br />

You could try to catch it with a net, or even two nets. That<br />

really does work for mid zone fishes that usually don't spend<br />

too much time on the bottom or hiding in the weeds and if you<br />

don't have a lot of branchy driftwood....basically it works for<br />

fish that school in lightly decorated/planted tanks.<br />

If neither or these options appeal to you or work the first time,<br />

then the other option is to set the trap.<br />

For argument's sake and because they are little brats to catch,<br />

let's say we are trying to catch some rather canny full grown<br />

corydoras. These fish know all the hidey holes and can squeeze<br />

under rocks, plants etc. They are also pretty greedy.<br />

First step in the plan: Don't feed your fish that day or find<br />

something extra yummy to bait the trap with.<br />

We can use a water bottle trap to catch one or a few fish at a<br />

time or a large container with the same sized opening for more.<br />

Materials:<br />

• One empty 500 or 750 ml water bottle.<br />

• Pair scissors<br />

• Tape (hockey shin pad tape works great, is waterproof and<br />

transparent. Duct tape works too but is not see through so<br />

useless)<br />

Method:<br />

1. Carefully poke a hole into the bottle with the scissors right<br />

at the shoulder (where the bottle just starts to narrow<br />

towards the top, then insert the scissors and carefully and<br />

semi evenly cut all around the bottle to meet at the start<br />

point. You now have a topless bottle (a flimsy cup) and a<br />

6


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

funnel.<br />

7. Carefully submerge the trap into the tank making sure the<br />

air bubbles are expelled through the end hole.<br />

2. Flip the top of the bottle over and invert the opening into<br />

the bottom.<br />

3. Apply a short piece of tape to one side of the new lid to act<br />

as a hinge.<br />

8. Go away. DO NOT STAY AND WATCH YOUR FISH...<br />

THEY WILL TAUNT YOU BY SWIMMING CLOSE TO,<br />

INTO AND BACK OUT OF YOUR TRAP IF THEY KNOW<br />

YOU ARE WATCHING... Go read your latest copy of Fins<br />

and Tales, post a fish joke in the Forum Humour Section<br />

etc...<br />

9. Come back and lift out your full fish trap. Over a bucket or<br />

container, carefully peel back the longer piece of tape and<br />

flip open the trap (water will be dripping out the bottom<br />

where the hole is so don't be overly long about it)<br />

4. Cut a longer piece of tape to fasten the other side of the lid<br />

closed so it won't open.<br />

5. Puncture a hole at the flat end of the bottle trap trying to<br />

make sure there aren't any sharp edges sticking into the<br />

trap.<br />

6. Bait the trap.<br />

10. Pour out the fish into the container. Sort out the ones that<br />

you didn't want to catch this time. (This always happens)<br />

Re-bait and reuse as needed.<br />

Additional notes: To catch mid zone fish, thread a piece of<br />

fishing line or thread through the bottle and bottom hole and<br />

use it to suspend the trap in the mid water area. I use sticky<br />

tack to hold the trap line in place on the outside of the glass but<br />

tape will work too.<br />

7


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

You can use several of these on multiple tanks at the same<br />

time, just setting, catching and emptying them all in rotation.<br />

Please never leave a trap set overnight. The fish do get<br />

stressed in their confined area and can panic themselves to<br />

death. Corys certainly have stress issues if they can't surface to<br />

gulp air occasionally. After a few episodes in the same day, you<br />

should take a break for a while. They can learn how to get out<br />

or avoid the trap altogether. The good news is that they don't<br />

remember long term and it can be used successfully again and<br />

again. Remember to sterilize your trap between uses and<br />

tanks or use a dedicated trap for each tank. You can make a<br />

new trap each time if you desire but we are all about reducing,<br />

reusing and recycling here at KWAS!<br />

The fish will taunt you if you watch. Go write something for Fins and Tales.<br />

Good hunting! - Jayne<br />

Are Overflow<br />

Boxes Safe<br />

Submitted By Melad, KWAS Forum Member<br />

(http://kwas.ca/forum/member.phpu=4166)<br />

Are overflow boxes safe That was a question that was<br />

boggling my mind ever since I planned on getting one. Before I<br />

get into whether or not they’re safe, let me tell you what<br />

overflow boxes are. Several different types of overflows are<br />

available.<br />

The most simple is the U tube type. Most have a box that hang<br />

inside the main tank with the U tubes connecting to a box<br />

hanging on the outside of the tank. If the tank water level<br />

drops, it falls beneath the edge of the box in the tank, which<br />

stops the water level from dropping any more. The box hanging<br />

on the outside of the tank is either split into two compartments<br />

(one side holds some water then as it fills the water cascades<br />

over into the other half which is fitted with a bulkhead to the<br />

sump), or in some cases there is a pipe sticking up from the<br />

bottom of the box where there is a bulkhead fitting. If the pump<br />

stops (electrical failure), the water level in the box only drops as<br />

low as either the pipe sticking out of the bulkhead or the level<br />

of the divider. In either case when the pump kicks back on the<br />

level of the water raises enough to start flowing again. The edge<br />

of the divider or the pipe sticking out of the bulkhead in the<br />

outside box is higher than the bottom of the box inside of the<br />

aquarium to prevent siphon break.<br />

The other option works with the use of an aqua lifter pump<br />

(able to lift small amounts of water as well as suck up air).<br />

Instead of tubes, most of these use a closed boxed chamber to<br />

carry water over the edge of the tank. These lose siphon easily<br />

but use the lifter pump to pull air out of the chamber and start<br />

siphoning that way.<br />

The overflow boxes that are built to maintain a siphon in a<br />

power outage are very reliable. The dangerous part with a<br />

power outage is actually the siphoning of the return line of the<br />

pump, which is corrected by having a check valve, or a hole<br />

drilled on the return pipe above the water level in the tank.<br />

KWAS:<br />

Celebrating 50 years<br />

The max GPH of an overflow box depends on 3 things; the size<br />

of the bulkhead going from the outer box to the sump, the size<br />

of the siphon tube, and the slots on the box inside of the<br />

aquarium. The maximum GPH is determined on the minimum<br />

GPH of the previous 3 things.<br />

Bottom line Yes, an overflow box is safe, as is a DIY (do it<br />

yourself) overflow box if you know what your doing.<br />

- Melad<br />

8


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

FREE PARKING<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

SUITE<br />

<strong>2010</strong> CAOAC Convention<br />

<strong>May</strong> 21-23, <strong>2010</strong><br />

Sheridan College Oakville, Ontario<br />

Your Convention Committee<br />

Dave Boehm / Bob Wright / Ann Stevens / Noel Wright / Ken Boorman / Terry Little<br />

GUEST SPEAKERS<br />

David Boruchowitz<br />

Spencer Jack<br />

Ad Konings<br />

Ray ‘Kingfish’ Lucas<br />

Oliver Lucanus<br />

Lee Newman<br />

SPECIAL<br />

ROOM<br />

RATES<br />

Ticket price includes the following at no extra charge<br />

Lunch meal Saturday<br />

Catered banquet dinner Saturday night<br />

SPECIAL<br />

DRAWS<br />

Breakfast meal Sunday morning<br />

CAOAC Executive meeting, Annual Elections & Awards Presentations<br />

Bring your fish, reptiles, amphibians, plants, crafts & photos to show<br />

Large Auction Sunday afternoon<br />

All for only $75 per person!<br />

Purchase your tickets online.<br />

Bring the family! Lots to see and do in the area!<br />

Visit www.caoac.ca for all the convention details<br />

BOOK EARLY TO GET OUR<br />

SPECIAL CAOAC RATE<br />

WIRELESS<br />

INTERNET<br />

9


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Name That Fish<br />

Hosted By Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca).<br />

For our April meeting we had 3 bags of fish to guess since we<br />

only had one for February (one bag ended up forgotten and left<br />

behind at home) and I was determined not to bring stumpers<br />

this time. The first fish was one that everyone has heard of<br />

before - Carassius auratus auratus or the common goldfish. The<br />

group did have an interesting time finding the right questions<br />

and whittling down the possibilities and I began getting<br />

nervous as to whether this bag would end up on the auction<br />

table again but Dave Boehm came through with the correct<br />

answer. I am told that they will find a home in his rain barrel<br />

and will be put on mosquito detail for the season.<br />

will eat almost anything that they can get into them. They will<br />

eat flake, pellets, worms and pretty much any frozen foods<br />

offered. Care should be taken when handling these fish as many<br />

a net has been ruined when their rather sharp and serrated fins<br />

get caught up in the mesh.<br />

It was one of the earliest fish to be domesticated, and is one of<br />

the most commonly kept aquarium fish. A relatively small<br />

member of the carp family (which also includes the koi carp<br />

and the crucian carp), the goldfish is a domesticated version of<br />

a dark-gray/olive/brown carp (Carassius auratus) native to east<br />

Asia.<br />

The last bag was donated by Cam Turner and contained a nice<br />

treat of four young black Altolamprologus calvus. These are rather<br />

nice fish and they aren’t seen very often. Unfortunately, they<br />

were guessed quicker than even our goldfish by Alex Campbell,<br />

as these fish had actually been on his mind for a new tank he<br />

had set up. Let that be a lesson to our members to stick up their<br />

hands and help participate in NTF – you never know what you<br />

might be taking home – and the quicker you guess the fish, the<br />

sooner I’ll be finished talking.<br />

Goldfish may grow to a maximum length of 23 inches and a<br />

maximum weight of 10 pounds (4 kg) although this is rare;<br />

most individual goldfish grow to under half this size. In<br />

optimal conditions, goldfish may live more than 40 years;<br />

however, most household goldfish generally live six to eight<br />

years.<br />

The next bag of fish was again guessed by Dave Boehm and he<br />

also took home two Pimelodella pictus, commonly called a<br />

spotted pictus or angelicus catfish.<br />

These are native to South America, from the rivers and<br />

waterways of Brazil, Peru and Columbia. They will grow to<br />

about 10 inches and are an active, peaceful tank resident,<br />

although as with most catfish they do have large mouths and<br />

Calvus are African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika growing to 6<br />

inches with a lifespan of 12 years. They are considered a<br />

peaceful cichlid but are quite predatory and should not be kept<br />

with smaller fish. They should be given a high protein diet and<br />

prefer live foods, but will eat flake and frozen foods. - Ed<br />

10


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Exchange Editor’s Report<br />

Submitted by Zenin Skomorowski, KWAS (zenin@golden.net).<br />

The newsletters featured in this column and others are available to<br />

you. Please let me know by email, or at the monthly meeting, which<br />

ones you would like to read.<br />

Crayfish can be an interesting part of the aquarium hobby.<br />

Udo Rohmann wrote about Cambarellus patzsuarensis in the<br />

February <strong>2010</strong> issue of Hi-Fin from the Peel Regional<br />

<strong>Aquarium</strong> Club. This dwarf freshwater crayfish comes from<br />

Lago de Patzcuaro in Mexico. The water there is 15 to 25C<br />

with a ph of 7.5 to 8.5, very easy to recreate in the home<br />

aquarium. There are several colour forms, the brightest being<br />

orange. Read in this article about the other tank parameters<br />

and what to feed these crustaceans. Also in this issue, Udo<br />

wrote about various types of filtration; mechanical, biological,<br />

chemical and replacement. Most modern filters use more than<br />

one method.<br />

An interesting but shy fish is the Striped Raphael catfish. It is<br />

sometimes known as the talking catfish. It will make a<br />

croaking sound when in the net. Tom Heisler wrote about his<br />

experiences with this beautiful catfish in the March <strong>2010</strong> issue<br />

of Some Things Fishy from the Tropical Fish club of Erie<br />

County.<br />

The March/April <strong>2010</strong> issue of Fincinnati from the Greater<br />

Cincinnati <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> has several spawning reports.<br />

Check out Albino Eureka Reds and Altolamprologus<br />

compressiceps “Gold Face”, both by Jerry Riegel. Have you<br />

ever wanted to ship fish across the country John Pasnau<br />

wrote “How to Pack and Ship Fish with Breathable Bags”.<br />

There is a complete set of supporting photos documenting the<br />

procedure – well done !<br />

Roger L. Sieloff has had success keeping and breeding the<br />

Clown Killifish Pseudepiplayts annulatus. A breeding trio of<br />

these very small 3 cm fish can be kept in as little as a 2.5 gallon<br />

tank. Read more about the setup and their breeding<br />

behaviour in the April <strong>2010</strong> issue of Fancy Fins from the Circle<br />

City <strong>Aquarium</strong> Club. Also in this issue, Mike Matthews wrote<br />

about “Keeping and Breeding Crystal Red Shrimp” and<br />

Charley Grimes wrote about Characodon audax, a Goodeid<br />

livebearer.<br />

Do you need help keeping Micro-worm and White-worm<br />

cultures Do you even feed your fish live foods All the<br />

instructions you need for maintaining cultures of either<br />

worms are in the April <strong>2010</strong> issue of The Scat from the St.<br />

Catharines and Area <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. In another<br />

instructional article, Dave Unruh wrote about “How to Strip<br />

Eggs from a Cichlid and Make Your Own Egg Hatcher”. Tom<br />

Hillier wrote about Ameca splendens, the Butterfly Goodied.<br />

They will eat many types of algae. Keeping and breeding<br />

them in the hobby is important because they are endangered in<br />

the wild due to habitat loss.<br />

The Greater City <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> of New York has produced<br />

another hefty issue of Modern <strong>Aquarium</strong> for April <strong>2010</strong>. If you<br />

are looking to give a beautiful and informative book to a fish<br />

keeping hobbyist, look for Encyclopedia of <strong>Aquarium</strong> & Pond<br />

Fish by David Alderton. In her book review column Wet<br />

Leaves, Susan Priest compliments this book on it’s beautiful<br />

photography and the information contained on its 400 pages.<br />

Stephen Sica wrote about “My Favorite <strong>Aquarium</strong>”. It is an<br />

eight gallon Oceanic Bio-Cube, containing a filter, sump and<br />

submersible water pump. The hood contains two compact<br />

fluorescent bulbs and a couple of blue LED night lights, a very<br />

nice option. Read more about what aquascaping and fish that<br />

Stephen keeps in his Bio-Cube. We all have probably heard<br />

about hybrid fish and especially those of African cichlids.<br />

Tommy Chang wrote about his experiences and research done<br />

on this sensitive topic in “The Pseudotropheus polit Project or<br />

What I Learned about African Cichlids and Hybrids”. When I<br />

was much younger, I was always tempted by the<br />

advertisements in comic books for “Sea Monkeys”. Today, we<br />

know that they are just a variant on the brine shrimp that many<br />

fish keepers raise to feed their fish. Another kit available today<br />

is “Dinosaur Shrimp” or “Triassic Triops”. Read why these<br />

creatures are way more interesting in “A Very Unusual<br />

Creature” by “The Undergravel Reporter”.<br />

There are two BAP reports of interest to read in the April <strong>2010</strong><br />

issue of Aqua Antics from the Sarnia <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. First up<br />

is Peter Melady describing his experiences with Cryptoheros<br />

Cutteri. This cichlid from Honduras, is relatively small but<br />

hardy and changes its colours when spawning. Second is<br />

Wayne Cole with Telmatochromis temporalis. This cichlid from<br />

Lake Tanganyika is also a relatively small fish but can be quite<br />

aggressive to tank mates.<br />

Surf’s up!<br />

Here are this month’s web sites to explore:<br />

Canadian Association of <strong>Aquarium</strong> Clubs – CAOAC<br />

Convention coming up in <strong>May</strong> in Oakville, Ontario, Canada:<br />

www.caoac.ca/convention.html<br />

The Menagerie Pet Shop in Toronto, Ontario, Canada:<br />

www.menageriepetshop.com new arrivals -<br />

www.menageriepetshop.com/fish/new-arrivals.html<br />

11


Meeting Minutes<br />

Minutes of the April <strong>2010</strong><br />

General Meeting<br />

Acting President/Vice President Phil<br />

Maznyk called the meeting to order at<br />

7:34 pm with 42 people present. Guests<br />

were welcomed and asked to sign our<br />

guest book with Mary Lynne and get a<br />

complimentary copy of our newsletter.<br />

Announcements<br />

Reminder of the upcoming CAOAC<br />

Convention. Postcards are available at the<br />

front or at the membership desk.<br />

Elections<br />

• Cam Turner made a motion to open the<br />

nominations for KWAS Executive<br />

positions for <strong>2010</strong>/2011.<br />

• Brad Smith nominated Phil Maznyk for<br />

President. No other nominations came<br />

from the floor.<br />

• Nominations can be sent to Mary Lynne<br />

and must be received before the start of<br />

the Business meeting April 13 th at 7:30<br />

pm.<br />

Constitution<br />

Phil asked for a motion to accept the<br />

Constitution and By-Law changes as<br />

printed in the newsletter. Rein Breitmaier<br />

motioned to accept the changes<br />

recommended by the Executive. Brad<br />

Smith seconded the motion. 26 members<br />

voted in favour of the changes, none<br />

voted against and none abstained. The<br />

changes are now in effect and the<br />

documents will be updated.<br />

HAP<br />

• Ed Koerner received certificates<br />

BAP<br />

• Ed Koerner and Al Ridley received<br />

certificates<br />

Name That Fish<br />

• Carassius aratus (goldfish) won by<br />

Dave Boehm<br />

M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

• Pimelodus pictus won by Dave Boehm<br />

• Altolamprologus calvus (donated by<br />

Cam Turner) won by Alex Campbell<br />

Program<br />

• Jerry Draper spoke to the group on<br />

Breeding Techniques.<br />

Show Jar<br />

• There were no entries in this months<br />

contest<br />

• Dave announced that he had swept the<br />

show with his two Name That Fish<br />

winnings<br />

• Next month is Killifish, Loaches and<br />

AOV<br />

Auction<br />

• Ed sold a selection of fish and plants<br />

Library Draw<br />

• Cam Turner won the library draw<br />

Raffle<br />

• Rein Breitmaier won a gift certificate to<br />

Living <strong>Aquarium</strong> in Cambridge.<br />

• Alex Campbell won a gift certificate to<br />

The Tropical Fishroom in Brantford.<br />

Meeting was adjourned at 9:21 pm.<br />

Minutes of the April <strong>2010</strong><br />

Business Meeting<br />

The meeting was called to order at 7:30<br />

pm at the McClanahan home.<br />

Executive present: Phil Maznyk, Brad<br />

McClanahan and Al Ridley.<br />

BOD present: Ryan Barton, Terry<br />

Clements, Katie McClanahan, Mary<br />

Lynne Lucier, Zenin Skomorowski and<br />

Ed Koerner<br />

Motion to accept the March Business<br />

meeting minutes as published made by<br />

Ryan, seconded by Terry… V&C<br />

Ryan suggested a change to the April<br />

General Meeting minutes. Motion to<br />

accept the April General meeting minutes<br />

as emailed and amended made by Katie,<br />

seconded by Brad. V&C<br />

Future Business meetings – Dave Boehm<br />

will host the <strong>May</strong> business meeting.<br />

Zenin will host the June business<br />

meeting.<br />

Treasurers report read by Brad and<br />

accepted on a motion made by Zenin,<br />

seconded by Mary Lynne. V&C<br />

Correspondence<br />

• No correspondence<br />

Committee Reports<br />

Newsletter (Cam)<br />

• Absent: nothing to report<br />

Webmaster (Phil)<br />

• OVAS (Ottawa Valley <strong>Aquarium</strong><br />

<strong>Society</strong>) asked us for advice in<br />

controlling their forum. We have sent<br />

them a letter outlining our Terms Of<br />

Service and how we enforce them.<br />

• Tim Bellhouse (Kingfisher) has joined<br />

the moderator team<br />

• Apisto-nut’s section has been hidden<br />

due to inactivity.<br />

Program (Al)<br />

• <strong>May</strong> – Frank Aguirre on Synodontis<br />

• June – KWAS Pizza Party/50 th year<br />

celebrations<br />

• September – Tianna (Tye) on<br />

Aquascaping<br />

• Future meeting – Klaus on the CARES<br />

program<br />

June Meeting Suggestions<br />

• Cake with KWAS logo – Al to order<br />

from Sobey’s<br />

• Zenin to pick six photos from the past<br />

year for publication<br />

• Ask Zenin to create a slide show –<br />

KWAS in review (how far back do we<br />

have pictures)<br />

12


• Mary Lynne to look into KWAS 50 year<br />

pins. Tomkar and RH Imprint will be<br />

approached to quote.<br />

• Lifetime members<br />

• A motion to allow Zenin to purchase a<br />

55 gallon kit for a main prize in June<br />

was made by Ed, seconded by Mary<br />

Lynne. V&C<br />

• A motion to allow Brad to purchase a<br />

$100.00 gift certificate and three $50.00<br />

gift certificates for prizes was made by<br />

Mary Lynne, seconded by Ed. V&C<br />

• Ed will contact Rhonda at Pepi’s Pizza<br />

and order the same as last year for<br />

delivery at 8 pm<br />

• Mary Lynne will order balloons<br />

• Al will remind the media contacts<br />

• Executive and BOD are asked to be at<br />

the meeting room at 7 pm sharp<br />

Exchanges (Zenin)<br />

• Al Ridley was reprinted in the<br />

Hamilton publication<br />

CAOAC (Phil)<br />

• CAOAC Convention registration is<br />

going well<br />

• CAOAC shirts are available online<br />

• Ed will pick up the $51.00 and the<br />

$50.00 gift cards KWAS has committed<br />

to for the Presidents Challenge for the<br />

CAOAC Convention.<br />

M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Membership (Mary Lynne)<br />

• Two new members plus an anonymous<br />

donated membership for Tesca.<br />

• Family Membership requirements may<br />

need to be review for the next update.<br />

• Phil will assist Mary Lynne with a<br />

database review to see if it can be made<br />

more user friendly.<br />

Auction (open)<br />

• No report<br />

Library (Terry)<br />

• No books were returned however<br />

members acknowledged that they had<br />

books out.<br />

Raffle (Katie)<br />

• Discussed ways to increase ticket sales.<br />

Katie will work the room to sell more<br />

tickets.<br />

HAP (Ed)<br />

• Ed advised the team of his<br />

dissatisfaction of the way his points<br />

and forms have been handled. The<br />

Executive explained that incomplete<br />

forms (inspection signatures) are the<br />

responsibility of the member, not of the<br />

Executive. The club is trying to bring<br />

integrity back to the program by<br />

enforcing the requirements of the<br />

programs especially where CAOAC<br />

awards requirements are met.<br />

BAP (Ryan)<br />

• Nothing to report<br />

Name That Fish (Ed)<br />

• Nothing to report<br />

Show Jar (Dave Boehm)<br />

• Absent: nothing to report<br />

Lunch Counter (Dave Bradley)<br />

• Absent<br />

Pet Store Liaison (Zenin and Al)<br />

• Al placed club flyers in Something’s<br />

Fishy in Owen Sound.<br />

• Talked about The Pet Pantry in Guelph<br />

and Fishy Business in Georgetown.<br />

Old Business<br />

• We now have the CTV Oktoberfish clip.<br />

Cam will post it to You Tube and link it<br />

to our website when he has time.<br />

New Business<br />

• Upcoming elections of the Executive<br />

will be held in <strong>May</strong>. Board of Directors<br />

will be appointed in June. Please advise<br />

an Executive if you are interested in<br />

any position. We will post in the forum<br />

to reach as many members as possible.<br />

Constitution review<br />

• Phil will update the Constitution and<br />

By-Laws and repost to the website.<br />

• Mary Lynne will email the document to<br />

our membership list.<br />

Motion to close the meeting was made by<br />

Katie. Seconded by Mary Lynne. V&C at<br />

10:01 pm.<br />

<strong>Aquarium</strong> Kit to be given away to a KWAS Member at the June Meeting<br />

Kit contains:<br />

- 55 gallon glass aquarium 48 x 13 x 21<br />

- Top Fin 60 Power Filter with 2 cartridges<br />

- 2 canopies, each with one fluorescent tube<br />

- 200 watt submersible heater<br />

- 6" net, LCD thermometer, water treatment samples<br />

Qualifications to win:<br />

- You must use your <strong>2010</strong> KWAS membership card to enter<br />

- Maximum of 2 membership cards per family<br />

- You must be present when the draw is made<br />

- You must be able to take the kit home that night (box is just over 4 feet long, will fit on the back seat of most automobiles)<br />

13


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

PlantED Tank: The Cover Up<br />

Hosted By Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca). Photos by Zenin Skomorowski.<br />

Well, hello again all that have been wondering where I’ve been<br />

and why I haven’t been writing. For those that didn’t miss me –<br />

what can I say that hasn’t been said about me at one time or<br />

another already I have been rather busy with more hours at<br />

work and although I have had ideas running through my head<br />

for articles, I have not been able to sit down and make myself<br />

actually put them down for Cam to print. For some of you with<br />

plant questions and queries you have been able to hunt me<br />

down anyway and pick my brain but I have actually missed<br />

putting in an article – and qualifying plants that are on my<br />

HAP list of course. So, in the immortal words of Bugs Bunny…..<br />

“On with the show.”<br />

People have asked me a lot about choosing good ground cover<br />

plants. It is easy to find various plants for the mid and back<br />

ground for different light conditions. I can come up with a half<br />

dozen plants quite quickly for low, medium or high light tanks<br />

with no problem at all. But, then people want something low<br />

and covering for the front of their tanks - now we run into some<br />

trouble. For those of you that have low light plant set ups,<br />

please bear with me but I will tell you right now that there are<br />

only two plants that come to mind that will do well or survive<br />

in your aquarium. Sorry, but that is all that I can give you at the<br />

moment. I will list them at the end of this so that you will have<br />

to work through the whole article to find out just what they are.<br />

For the rest of you, I will say that most low cover plants require<br />

at least medium light with high light being better and CO2<br />

injection helping considerably to giving a look that might<br />

approach that underwater lawn effect that many people are<br />

looking for.<br />

Now, there are many reasons for this. Many of the plants that<br />

we use for cover plants are not naturally submersed or would<br />

grow in shallow water. When we put them in our tanks they<br />

may be in a 16-20 inch deep tank which is deeper than they<br />

have evolved in to begin with and need some help. Also, light is<br />

absorbed and diffracted as it travels deeper in water and by the<br />

time it gets to the plants there is much less available that what<br />

they need to be healthy and robust. Another reason that plants<br />

don’t grow, or grow so much better when given CO2 is simply<br />

that they are used to greater amounts of CO2 in natural settings.<br />

If a plant grows in the air, there is much more CO2 available to<br />

it in a gaseous environment than when submerged under water.<br />

Also, there is much more CO2 available at an aquarium’s<br />

surface where there are many gas exchanges going on<br />

constantly, rather than 12 or 18 inches underwater. This is one of<br />

the reasons that floating plants will do so much better in most<br />

aquariums, along with getting much more light, of course.<br />

Now that we have established the light requirements for<br />

growing most cover plants let’s look at what other issues most<br />

people will be frustrated by. I know that many people thinking<br />

about planted tanks have looked at photos and shots of<br />

manicured aquascapes that look like lawns – picturesque lush<br />

green growth forming rolling carpets over the substrate. Well,<br />

there are some secrets to these set ups. They are not generally<br />

community tanks and often have been painstakingly crafted for<br />

the final planted effect, with not a lot of consideration given to<br />

keeping fish. Most of us want to keep fish and have a planted<br />

tank. This is a bit more difficult.<br />

Most small groundcovers have very shallow and fine root<br />

systems. Hemianthus callitrichoides, or dwarf baby tears - HC as<br />

most planties call it, is a favourite choice but has when<br />

purchased will usually have roots that are only a quarter of an<br />

inch long, if that and usually grown in a fibre that you should<br />

remove before planting. If you also like to have plecos, loaches<br />

or corys in your tank, you can spend as much money as you like<br />

on HC and never see it get a foothold. Fish will dig, uproot, tear<br />

apart, and generally have a little party in your greenery and<br />

never think twice about it. These fish naturally scour the<br />

substrate for food and knowing that you have spent your time<br />

and patience trying your best to make these plants grow, they<br />

will take even greater delight in watching each one float to the<br />

top. If you think I am joking, simply look at the gleam in their<br />

eyes while they are doing just that. The other obstacle to<br />

growing new plants is the substrate itself. If it is too coarse there<br />

will be nothing for the small and fine roots to get a hold in.<br />

They may come loose even without the assistance of carousing<br />

bottom dwellers. Some people do not care for sand substrate<br />

but I find it one of the better ones for fine roots to take hold. I<br />

know of some that have mixed sand or fluorite in with other<br />

types of substrate such as Eco-Complete with good results.<br />

River stone would be the other end of the spectrum and it is<br />

completely out. Really, the finer the product the easier it will be<br />

for finer roots to get a hold and start to growing. One trick that<br />

sometimes works is to place a small piece of glass over the new<br />

plant with a few stones as supports to allow some water flow<br />

through the leaves. This will protect the plant from fish<br />

disturbing it while it is developing some root structure.<br />

This brings me to yet one more challenge to growing successful<br />

ground covers – water flow. If you have too much current for<br />

new plants, they can be uprooted and carried away and can’t<br />

get a start. One the flip side of that, if there is not enough<br />

current, you will have debris such as fish waste, left over food<br />

and decaying plant matter get caught in the finer leaves and<br />

choke off growth or suffocate the plant. This will lead to an<br />

early death. Also, without water flow, you may get a build up of<br />

various algaes develop and these will also choke off your plants<br />

over time, as well as look unsightly. Even if you are using CO2<br />

14


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

in your tank, you will need a good circulation in the tank to<br />

make sure your CO2 is reaching all your plants.<br />

Now, if you are still with me and still hoping to grow some<br />

ground covers in your planted tank, then I will list some that I<br />

have tried and add a few options and suggestions.<br />

tangle as a chain of several plants. Chain sword can quickly<br />

become unruly if not kept trimmed and its invasiveness<br />

controlled.<br />

Eleocharis<br />

Blyxa<br />

This is a nice little grass-like plant that tends to need higher<br />

light conditions. It grows into a tuft of short spikey leaves with<br />

short roots and can be a problem to establish. Once it takes hold<br />

though it develops quickly into groups of plants bunched<br />

together at the center stem. These can be easily divided into<br />

more plants and a nice grove can be had over time. Blyxa<br />

japonica grows about 3 inches tall while Blyxa echinosperma<br />

aubertii grows taller to about 6 inches and is the harder to grow<br />

and more seldom seem of the two. These definitely do better<br />

with CO2 available. They take some time to establish and are<br />

not seen very often in the marketplace but are well worth<br />

looking for.<br />

Cryptocoryne parva<br />

Eleocharis parvula Dwarf Hair Grass<br />

This is the family of dwarf hair grasses. The leaves are very thin<br />

and fine but very close together. The roots are quite fine and it is<br />

difficult to establish in a coarse substrate. Good water flow is<br />

needed for this plant as it tends to be a magnet for debris of all<br />

kinds and can quickly become a suffocated mess. If not given<br />

enough light it will yellow and soon fall apart littering the tank<br />

with old pieces of leaves. It is slow to establish and slow to<br />

spread. It is often easier to purchase several tubs of the plant,<br />

break them up and create a small matt rather than waiting for<br />

them to propagate themselves.<br />

Glossostigma elatinoides<br />

Cryptocoryne parva<br />

Most crypts are considered low light plants but this specimen<br />

tends to require more light than its cousins. Unfortunately, the<br />

extra light also makes it susceptible to hair algae quite often. It<br />

is a small 2 inch plant that grows slowly like most crypts but<br />

makes for a nice foreground crypt variety. It stays green under<br />

high light and will slowly form a cluster of plants from root<br />

runners.<br />

Echinodorus tenellus<br />

This is the smallest of the sword family, its very thin blades<br />

reaching about 2 inches in height and looking like grass. It is<br />

called pygmy chain sword and once established will send out<br />

straight runners of new shoots that can spread across the<br />

bottom of the aquarium. It can do fine in medium light and will<br />

establish a solid root structure fairly quickly and easily. It may<br />

be easier to break apart new plants as they tend to uproot and<br />

Glossostigma elatinoides<br />

This can be a frustrating plant that leaves one scratching their<br />

head. It can be difficult to establish and requires a medium high<br />

level of light. I have had several failed attempts in growing this<br />

plant while watching it simply wilt and rot away into a pile of<br />

mulm. It has fine roots that can be challenging to take hold as<br />

15


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

well. But, once this plant has decided to make a go of it and<br />

actually stick around to grow, it can quickly become an out of<br />

control weed that will run anywhere that it can. It tends to grow<br />

taller after established and will start looking very leggy. It can<br />

be trimmed down short with scissors easily enough and this<br />

will allow it to branch out more and send out new runners. It<br />

will grow more solidly with CO2 and create a more dense and<br />

substantial mat.<br />

Hemianthus<br />

light and often have better root structures so have a bit more<br />

flexibility. Once established they will develop new plants<br />

through runners. CO2 and fertilizers are not needed for these<br />

plants to do well.<br />

Monosolenium tenerum<br />

Here are one of the plants that will do well under lower light<br />

conditions. It is often referred to as Pellia but this is now<br />

considered to be a mistaken identification. The plant is a<br />

liverwort, in that it does not actually have leaves, but what look<br />

like leaves are called thallus or green branches. This plant is<br />

heavier than water and will sink to the bottom where it tries at<br />

establish itself in nocks and crannies or between other plants<br />

and form little tufts that resemble a large riccia. It can be grown<br />

in a wide variety of condition, from cold to hot water, and<br />

shade to sunlight.<br />

Pogostemon helferi<br />

16<br />

Hemianthus callitrichoides Dwarf Baby Tears<br />

This is a group of plants known as baby’s tears. Again, having<br />

fine roots it can be difficult to establish in a community<br />

aquarium as it can be beat up and uprooted quite easily.<br />

Hemianthus callitrichoides or dwarf baby’s tears is a rather tiny<br />

leaved plant that can used to create that manicured lawn effect.<br />

It usually only grows about an inch from the surface and creates<br />

a tight and lush cover of green. It needs a medium high level of<br />

light and will do much better with CO2 injection. Once<br />

established it will form a dense carpet that will blend into the<br />

roots and stems of other plants until the larger plants look like<br />

they are growing out of the green layer of substrate. The plant is<br />

vulnerable to debris clogging it up so it should have some<br />

current or ritual cleaning. Hemianthus micranthemoides is a larger<br />

form of baby’s tears and tends to grow upward once<br />

established. It should be kept trimmed as it will shade out<br />

lower leaves and branches and this will kill off the bottom of<br />

the plant. The stems tend to be brittle and will break up easily if<br />

fish rummage around in it. When grown with CO2 the leaves<br />

grow larger to the point that can be mistaken for Bacopa.<br />

Lilaeopsis<br />

This is a family of micro swords. They are rather similar to<br />

chain swords at first glance but their leave structure from the<br />

plant’s crown tends to grow straight up rather than a gentle<br />

arched leave of the chain sword. The most common varieties are<br />

L. brasiliensis and L. “Mauritius” which grow to about 3 inches.<br />

There is a giant variety known as L. carolinesis that can grow to<br />

more than 12 inches tall. Micro swords will grow in medium<br />

This little plant is commonly known as downoi. It is a very<br />

different kind of plant, difficult to establish as it usually is<br />

found with small little roots and the leaves tend to break off<br />

easily when trying to plant it. It has a look of a succulent garden<br />

plant, with rings of curly leaves layered from the stem growing<br />

2 to 3 inches tall. It propagates by growing clusters of plants<br />

from the stem that can be broken up to form a larger grouping.<br />

One downfall to this plant is that plecos and corys tend to<br />

develop a taste for it once they find it. After that happens they<br />

tend to either chew it down to the stem or uproot it and leave<br />

bits of broken leaves floating around in the tank.<br />

Utricularia graminifolia<br />

Utricularia graminifolia<br />

The is an interesting little ground cover plant that will need<br />

high light and should have some CO2 to help get it established.<br />

It has very fine roots and will be difficult to establish in a<br />

community tank. It is a bladderwort and is actually a<br />

carnivorous plant. It will catch very small crustaceans and<br />

water life and digest the enzymes. Once established it will form<br />

...Continued on Page 18: PlantED Tank<br />

Official Publication of the <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> (http://www.kwas.ca)


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

I Know What You Did Last Summer<br />

Article by Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca). Photos provided by the Author.<br />

enjoy the different look – anything was better than plain ugly<br />

pavement that fills most of my back “yard”. I half filled it with<br />

tap water and then let nature take its course over a rainy<br />

weekend and let the rest fill by itself. I visited my folk’s pond<br />

and added several bunches of hornwort to act as an oxygenator<br />

and something for the fish to hide from each other and fry to<br />

escape to. I also planted some water iris, water lilies and<br />

cattails. In went several pieces of driftwood that I had tried to<br />

water log the previous summer but still didn’t have any luck<br />

sinking.<br />

Well, it is the time of year that we start looking outside again<br />

and wondering what we can do or what we can get away with.<br />

Most of us like to spend more time outside when the weather<br />

gets nicer and spend less time fussing over our tanks and fish<br />

inside. Some people look for a way to bring some fish outside to<br />

enjoy the weather as well. There are several ways of doing that<br />

– some people will build a pond but for some that is too much<br />

work or there isn’t time or space, or they would rather not<br />

invest in that kind of project. Some people will simply throw<br />

some fish into a rain barrel – this is usually done using some<br />

goldfish to help keep down the mosquitoes. They will devour<br />

larvae and grow quite nicely but tend to be rather bothersome<br />

to keep over the winter if you really don’t want to allocate a<br />

tank to them. Other fish will work as well. Guppies, platies and<br />

several other live bearers will work.<br />

Some people want to keep some fish they can see and a little tub<br />

or barrel set on the porch or patio will work just fine. You want<br />

to make sure that it doesn’t get too much direct sun that will<br />

raise the temperature to slow cook your fish. You could have<br />

some issues with cats and other animals that might discover<br />

your fish and decide to go for some late night snacks. Keeping<br />

some plants floating at the top will help with both problems a<br />

little bit but not completely.<br />

Then there are those of us that have run out of tank space and<br />

want to use the extra season to breed something outside and<br />

work on those BAP (Breeder’s Award Program) points. That’s<br />

what I decided to do last summer. I found an ad for a cheap<br />

plastic pond liner and decided to try keeping some fish<br />

outdoors for the summer. I had a 150 gallon kidney shaped<br />

insert for $50 and decided that I would try some livebearers out<br />

back. It was about 60”x 36”x16” deep with a few ledges. It was<br />

pretty easy – just find a place to put it where I could see it and<br />

So, now to add some fish. I have been working on breeding<br />

some different livebearers for my BAP points and decided to<br />

throw in some red swordtails, lyretail black mollies, Ameca<br />

splendens and some corys that I hadn’t spawned yet. Well, I lost<br />

a pair of swords after the first night when they decided to jump<br />

out and I found them lying together the next day about 4 feet<br />

down slope form the pond tub. I added another pair to make a<br />

trio and crossed my fingers. To make a long story short there<br />

were no other fatalities for the summer. A friend gave me an old<br />

fountain pump which I added for some water circulation and<br />

aeration and pretty much let things be for the summer. I did<br />

feed every so often but the fish did well on the many insects<br />

that found their way into the pond. The plants did well and the<br />

cattails and iris bloomed for me. The lilies found it a bit shallow<br />

and didn’t do overly well but they did send out leaves that<br />

covered the pond here and there. The hornwort took off like a<br />

weed and I had to pull it out to allow room for the fish to find<br />

swimming space. I also added a nice plant a bit later – a dwarf<br />

papyrus, Cyperus papyrus peramentus. I grew this plant for my<br />

HAP (Horticulturist Award Program) and it did quite well. It is<br />

a nice bog plant that will grow in 0-6 inches of water and grows<br />

to about 24”. It blooms a non-descript flower but did more than<br />

double in size and I was able to split it up later in the season<br />

and share it with another hobbyist that enjoys her pond. She<br />

said she had room for it in the window over the winter as it is<br />

not perennial, but can be kept in a cool damp pot with only a<br />

little light. It was the other plants that made a positive<br />

contribution in the pond though. As mentioned the hornwort<br />

grew well and allowed places for the fry to hide. The fish also<br />

used the cattail and irises to hide in. They were in about 4-6<br />

inches of water and their tuberous roots gave space for water<br />

flow and hiding places. I did add some aquarium plants into<br />

the pond. I tried some Amazon swords, corkscrew val, a banana<br />

plant, and a lotus. I did not have great success with most of<br />

these. I did get growth, but I am thinking that we did not have<br />

enough sun on a regular basis last summer. <strong>May</strong>be where I had<br />

them they did not get enough daily sun, but other plants did<br />

fine. I guess I will need to try again and find out.<br />

17


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

disappointing as they were the fish I was hoping the most to<br />

have spawn. Oh well, there is always next time.<br />

Overall I did not work very hard at having to maintain this set<br />

up. I didn’t do water changes per se. When there was a heavy<br />

rain the insert would fill up and excess water would overflow. I<br />

did not feed the fish very often but did a few times a week with<br />

veggie or earthworm flakes. I did have to pull out patches of<br />

hair algae on a regular basis in the height of summer, but there<br />

was not a lot of maintenance required. The driftwood still did<br />

not completely sink but did add some shade and hiding places<br />

for the fish. The fry were rather popular for their colour at<br />

Oktoberfish and sold for $2 a piece in the auctions for 1.5 inch<br />

fish so I was quite happy. Not everything went completely as<br />

planned though for the summer. The insert is really designed to<br />

be dug into the ground and be a proper little pond. Keeping it<br />

as I was, I found that the plastic didn’t have enough support to<br />

keep its shape and it did sag and lose water. I had to rummage<br />

around in the garage and prop it up with various pieces of<br />

wood and plastic flower pots but it made it through the year.<br />

In the fall, I started netting out fish and brought them inside. I<br />

drained the tub and found the corys at the bottom and cleaned<br />

the insert up and put it away for the winter. I am planning on<br />

trying some fish outside again this summer, but what I am not<br />

sure yet. I just picked up a new rigid tub to play with. It is<br />

6’x4’x2’ and holds 340 gallons of water. If anyone had any ideas<br />

I’d like to hear them. I have thought about trying some Africans<br />

or I have been reading up on Anableps anableps, a livebearer that<br />

grows up to a foot long and has fry up to 2 inches long.<br />

I did end up with fry being produced and surviving. I left the<br />

pond running till after the first frost hit in early October and<br />

brought the fish into my tanks. I did not heat the new fish right<br />

away to acclimate them a bit over the first week as the outside<br />

water temps had dropped. Putting them directly into a heated<br />

tank would likely have killed many of them. The same thing<br />

can be said of the hornwort I tried to keep. Much of it died off<br />

when I brought it inside. Hornwort tends to drop leaves like a<br />

January Christmas tree when you change it’s environment too<br />

quickly. Be aware of that if you are buying hornwort at fall<br />

auctions for many people bring it in from their ponds and it<br />

may not survive or may carry unwanted hitchhikers along with<br />

it – parasites and critters that you don’t want to have in your<br />

tanks. Well, from the trio of swords I put in I pulled out well<br />

over 150 fry from several batches. It was fun watching their<br />

bright red colours in the pond and those that saw my pond<br />

were impressed at the colour of the fish and the size that the<br />

adults attained. I also ended up with several Amecas. They are<br />

goodieds so do not produce very many fry but I ended up with<br />

enough to qualify for BAP points. The adults ended up very<br />

colourful for the species and I kicked myself for not entering<br />

them into a few fall fish shows. I do not know why but the<br />

mollies did not spawn in the tub, or if they did I never saw any<br />

fry. I did not find any cory fry either. That was a bit<br />

So, if you are looking outside and wondering what you can do<br />

outside when the weather gets warmer you can still enjoy your<br />

fish in the sun while sipping on a cold beverage of choice. There<br />

are many choices that you can experiment with and I’m sure<br />

that it would make for an interesting article to share for others<br />

that want to try. - Ed<br />

...Continued from Page 16: PlantED Tank<br />

a thick and dense carpet of 2 inch thin leaves looking rather<br />

grass-like.<br />

Saggitaria subulata<br />

As promised to those that want a low light ground cover, I<br />

finish off with dwarf sag. This plant will look very similar to a<br />

val with some subtle differences. It normally only grows to a 3<br />

to 6 inch plant but if given high light and CO2, it can grow to<br />

12 inches which will not make it a favourite for the front of the<br />

aquarium. It has a good root structure and will establish itself<br />

in most substrates quite easily. It will spread by runners and<br />

will send new shoots in all kinds of places – rocks, wood, and<br />

through other ground covers. It may be the most versatile plant<br />

that you can use as a ground cover, but even though it will<br />

form tight groups of plants, it is too large and coarse to give a<br />

gentle sloping carpet of green effect in your tank. - PlantED<br />

18


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

FREE PARKING<br />

HOSPITALITY<br />

SUITE<br />

<strong>2010</strong> CAOAC Convention<br />

<strong>May</strong> 21-23, <strong>2010</strong><br />

Sheridan College Oakville, Ontario<br />

Your Convention Committee<br />

Dave Boehm / Bob Wright / Ann Stevens / Noel Wright / Ken Boorman / Terry Little<br />

GUEST SPEAKERS<br />

David Boruchowitz<br />

Spencer Jack<br />

Ad Konings<br />

Ray ‘Kingfish’ Lucas<br />

Oliver Lucanus<br />

Lee Newman<br />

SPECIAL<br />

ROOM<br />

RATES<br />

Ticket price includes the following at no extra charge<br />

Lunch meal Saturday<br />

Catered banquet dinner Saturday night<br />

SPECIAL<br />

DRAWS<br />

Breakfast meal Sunday morning<br />

CAOAC Executive meeting, Annual Elections & Awards Presentations<br />

Bring your fish, reptiles, amphibians, plants, crafts & photos to show<br />

Large Auction Sunday afternoon<br />

All for only $75 per person!<br />

Purchase your tickets online.<br />

Bring the family! Lots to see and do in the area!<br />

Visit www.caoac.ca for all the convention details<br />

BOOK EARLY TO GET OUR<br />

SPECIAL CAOAC RATE<br />

WIRELESS<br />

INTERNET<br />

19


M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />

Come to our meetings. We love to have guests.<br />

KWAS meets on the 1st Tuesday of each month from September until June at the Adult Rec. Centre at 185 King St. South in<br />

<strong>Waterloo</strong> (corner of King and Allen). We meet on the second floor in the large multi-purpose room from 7:30 to 10 pm. Join Us!<br />

Guests are welcome any time.<br />

Bring your friends and show<br />

them what our club is all<br />

about!<br />

Meeting<br />

Parking<br />

20

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!