May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society
May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society
May 2010 - Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society
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M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Fins & Tales<br />
Serving <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> and the surrounding area since 1960<br />
In This Issue: Volume 50, Issue 5<br />
Adventures in DIY: The Bottle Trap - page 6<br />
PlantED Tank: The Cover Up - page 14<br />
Are Overflow Boxes Safe - Page 9<br />
Next Meeting: Tuesday, <strong>May</strong> 4th at 7:30 pm<br />
! ! ! Frank Aguirre speaks about Synodontis cats<br />
Official Publication of the <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong><br />
Visit us at http://www.kwas.ca
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
In This Issue...<br />
Name That Fish<br />
CAOAC Convention Details<br />
DIY Bottle Trap<br />
PlantED: The Cover Up<br />
From The Prez’s Desk<br />
Page 4<br />
From The Editors’ Desk<br />
Page 4<br />
Local Store Directory<br />
Page 5<br />
<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show Results<br />
Did it really take 20+<br />
guesses for our<br />
membership to figure<br />
out “Goldfish” for<br />
April’s Name That<br />
Fish Yes it did, but<br />
only because Ed’s been<br />
challenging us for<br />
months with very rare<br />
fish. No one suspected<br />
he’d bring feeders as a<br />
joke :) Well it was<br />
APRIL after all.<br />
Page 10<br />
The <strong>2010</strong> CAOAC<br />
convention will be held<br />
at Sheridan College this<br />
coming <strong>May</strong>. Phil has<br />
assembled a lot of<br />
details into a handy<br />
reference on page 9.<br />
We hope to see another<br />
large contingent of<br />
KWAS members this<br />
year. See you there!<br />
Jayne breaks out her<br />
engineering skills and<br />
treats us to a seminar on<br />
catching fish without<br />
tearing apart a tank.<br />
Just be sure not to<br />
watch the fish or they’ll<br />
tease you mercilessly.<br />
Page 6<br />
Ed discusses ground<br />
cover for your planted<br />
tank and Zenin presents<br />
photos from the new<br />
planted display tank at<br />
Big Al’s <strong>Aquarium</strong><br />
Services in <strong>Kitchener</strong>.<br />
Page 14<br />
Page 5<br />
Are Overflow Boxes Safe<br />
Page 9<br />
Exchange Editor’s Report<br />
Page 11<br />
KWAS Meeting Minutes<br />
Page 14<br />
Ed Talks Ponds<br />
Page 17<br />
Fry Tank<br />
Page 20<br />
Page 19<br />
Upcoming Fishy Events<br />
On the front cover<br />
• <strong>May</strong> 1 - Cambridge Auction<br />
This Boesemani Rainbow fish was photographed by Brad Smith.<br />
• <strong>May</strong> 4 - KWAS General Meeting<br />
• <strong>May</strong> 11 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />
• <strong>May</strong> 21-23 - CAOAC Annual Convention<br />
• June 1 - KWAS Pizza and Raffle Night<br />
• June 8 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />
• June 26 - Sarnia Guest Speaker ‘ Gary Lange’<br />
• June 28 - KWAS Summer Picnic<br />
• September 7 - KWAS General Meeting<br />
• September 14 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />
• September 18 - Sarnia Show and Auction<br />
• September 26 - London Show and Auction<br />
• October 5 - KWAS General Meeting<br />
• October 12 - KWAS Business Meeting<br />
• October 24 - OKTOBERFISH Show and Auction<br />
Get your cameras out! Your fish or tank could be featured in an upcoming<br />
edition of Fins & Tales! Simply email your high-res photos and a description<br />
to us at cam.turner@gmail.com. Photos must be at least 2400 pixels wide by<br />
1800 pixels tall to be printable. Bigger is better. Questions Email us.<br />
2
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
KWAS Mission Statement<br />
The <strong>Kitchener</strong> <strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> (KWAS) is a nonprofit<br />
organization whose primary goals are to:<br />
• Further the hobby and study of tropical fish and related<br />
endeavours<br />
• Inspire the preservation of aquatic life<br />
• Maintain a meeting place for its members<br />
• Develop and maintain a library on aquatic life<br />
• Promote fellowship among its members<br />
• Seek out and establish a kinship with other clubs with<br />
similar objectives<br />
KWAS is a charter member of CAOAC:<br />
The Canadian Association of <strong>Aquarium</strong> Clubs<br />
Fins & Tales is published 10 times each year between the<br />
months of September and June for KWAS members. Opinions<br />
expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not<br />
necessarily those of the Fins & Tales editors or KWAS. The<br />
mention of any product does not constitute an endorsement by<br />
Fins & Tales or KWAS members.<br />
Reprint Policy — Articles from this publication may be printed<br />
in a not-for-profit publication provided credit is given to both<br />
the author and KWAS. Copies of the reprint must be sent to<br />
both the author and KWAS. Any other use is prohibited without<br />
the written consent of KWAS.<br />
Exchange Program — KWAS exchanges newsletters with other<br />
clubs across North America. If your club is interested in<br />
becoming a part of this program please contact our exchange<br />
editor by mail or e-mail zenin@golden.net<br />
Correspondence — Please send all correspondence to the<br />
<strong>Kitchener</strong> <strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>, Box 38037 256 King<br />
Street North, <strong>Waterloo</strong>, Ontario, Canada N2J 4T9.<br />
Submission of Articles<br />
Cover images and articles can be submitted for publication in<br />
Fins & Tales by all hobbyists and must be submitted digitally.<br />
Priority is given to KWAS members and to topics that have not<br />
been recently covered. Not all submissions will be printed in the<br />
month they are submitted. The editors of Fins & Tales may be<br />
required to edit your submission for length, spelling, grammar<br />
and/or clarity. Please indicate if you would like to proof read<br />
the edited version prior to official publication.<br />
Submissions are due via email to the editors (editor@kwas.ca)<br />
by the 15 th day of the month for publication in the upcoming<br />
issue of Fins & Tales. Please contact us if you have any<br />
questions or would like suggestions or feedback on possible<br />
article topics.<br />
President !<br />
Vice President !<br />
Treasurer !<br />
Secretary !<br />
Past President !<br />
KWAS Officials 2008 - 2009<br />
Executive<br />
Geoff Money (gmoney@golden.net)<br />
Phil Maznyk (webmaster@kwas.ca)<br />
Brad McClanahan (nasfan@3web.com)<br />
Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />
Kevin Reimer (kevin.reimer@sympatico.ca)<br />
Board of Directors<br />
Editor/Publisher ! Cameron Turner, Tanya Morose<br />
! (cam.turner@gmail.com)<br />
Exchange Editor ! Zenin Skomorowski (zenin@golden.net)<br />
Membership Chair Mary Lynne Lucier (marylynnel@yahoo.ca)<br />
Auction Chair ! ***** Open *****<br />
Oktoberfish Chair ! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />
Librarian ! Terry Clements<br />
Lunch Committee !***** Open *****<br />
Programs ! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />
Raffle Chair ! Katie McClanahan (nasfan@3web.com)<br />
B.A.P Chair ! Ryan Barton (rabar10@yahoo.com)<br />
H.A.P Chair ! Ed Koerner (edkoerner@sympatico.ca)<br />
CAOAC Reps ! Phil Maznyk (and one position open still)<br />
Name That Fish ! Ed Koerner (edkoerner@sympatico.ca)<br />
Jar Show ! Dave Boehm (fishman@golden.net)<br />
Webmaster ! Phil Maznyk (webmaster@kwas.ca)<br />
Pet Store Liaisons! Al Ridley (pyrofish@rogers.com)<br />
! Zenin Skomorowski (zenin@golden.net)<br />
Advertise in Fins & Tales<br />
The KWAS Executive and BOD voted to try a bit of an<br />
experiment starting November of 2009. We will no longer run<br />
explicit ads based on feedback from our readership. Instead we<br />
will focus more completely on content written by our members<br />
(Hint! Hint!). As an alternative we have included a Local Fish<br />
Store (LFS) Directory that lists all the businesses that support<br />
KWAS either through donations, sponsorships or discounts for<br />
club members. Check the table of contents on the opposite page<br />
to learn where that directory is this month. If you would like to<br />
discuss or provide feedback on this policy please email our<br />
editor(s) or any member of the executive/BOD. Thanks.<br />
Join KWAS<br />
<strong>2010</strong> Membership Fees<br />
! ! Adult ! Family<br />
! 1 Year ! $25 !$30<br />
! 2 Years ! $48 !$58<br />
! 3 Years! $71 !$86<br />
! 4 Years ! $92 ! $112<br />
! 5 Years ! $100!$120<br />
Junior Members (under the age of 18) $10 per year<br />
3
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
From the President’s Desk<br />
Hello again everyone,<br />
Hello All.<br />
From The Editors’ Desk<br />
As I write this months Presidents page I realize that I am a full 5<br />
days behind our newsletter editors deadline. I hope this gets<br />
published. Like many of you I am juggling a lot with both our<br />
own club and CAOAC. With the warmer weather finally here,<br />
it’s time to get outside and take care of the yard and get the<br />
patio ready for the summer months. <strong>May</strong> is a busy time at our<br />
own club as our annual elections will be held this meeting. If<br />
you haven’t notified Mary Lynne that you are running for one<br />
of the executive positions, please do so now. Members in good<br />
standing have until the beginning of our <strong>May</strong> meeting to either<br />
be nominated by another club member or nominate themselves<br />
for one of the 4 executive positions.<br />
Last months guest speaker Jerry Draper (Tropical Fishroom in<br />
Brantford) really put on a great presentation on breeding<br />
techniques. I learned some very interesting facts listening to his<br />
presentation. Thanks Jerry, you are always welcome in<br />
<strong>Kitchener</strong>. This month another friend of our club, Frank Aguirre<br />
will visit us to present a talk on the Synodontis catfish species.<br />
Frank’s talks are always filled with great information, photos<br />
and of course his passion for all species shines when he talks.<br />
I’m not sure what happened last month with the jar show but<br />
with our 4 main competitors absent, Dave had a nice easy<br />
night. No wonder he was able to concentrate so well and win<br />
both the Name that fish species. Let’s not forgot how much fun<br />
it is to show your fish and bring something in this month.<br />
Loaches and killifish are up and of course AOV.<br />
On Saturday <strong>May</strong> 1st our neighbour club CDAS holds their<br />
spring auction. Sunday <strong>May</strong> 2nd, has London on deck with<br />
their event. Of course <strong>May</strong> is convention month and I’m sure<br />
looking forward to it. Our club is up for a number of awards<br />
again this year. Let’s hope we can pull it off again. I think we’ve<br />
got the stuff it takes! It looks like KWAS is going to have a great<br />
contingent of members going to Oakville which is a mere 45<br />
minute drive from <strong>Kitchener</strong>. If you haven’t purchased your<br />
ticket or booked your room if you are staying over, please do it<br />
now. Come support your club and enjoy a weekend full of great<br />
guest speakers from all over North America. Details can be<br />
found in this newsletter and on the CAOAC website<br />
www.caoac.ca.<br />
I tempted fate last month. I boasted that we managed to get the<br />
issue done early. Bad idea. As I write this there are less than 48<br />
hours to the general meeting and this issue is far from done.<br />
April has been a write off for our family. Two trade shows for<br />
Tanya, two business trips for Cam, plus all the regular work<br />
and family commitments. Oh well, maybe in June<br />
As a result of our INSANE April there is very little chance that<br />
you’ll get a printed copy of this newsletter before June’s<br />
meeting, but you’ll need something to tide you over for 2<br />
months right Why not two issues at a time You can thank us<br />
later.<br />
Sadly, this is also a month where Rein has broken his streak for<br />
TMA. Hopefully TMA #52 will return next month before we<br />
take our summer break.<br />
In contrast however we have two new contributors. Jayne<br />
Glazier follows in Ryan Barton’s shoes with a continuation of<br />
what I hope will become the regular “Adventures in DIY”<br />
column every issue. I’ve already lined up a few more DIY<br />
articles, so it seems likely we’ll get at least five in a row for this<br />
feature and more if you write something too. Hint.<br />
The second contributor is Melad from our forums. Inspired by<br />
his epic threads I asked for a summary of the overflow boxes<br />
discussion. It appears on page 9 for your reading pleasure.<br />
Thanks Melad!<br />
Lastly, Ed returns from a bit of a hiatus with a PlantED Tank<br />
article about ground cover and bonus article about ponds.<br />
Other than that, I guess I should get back to actually<br />
completing this issue eh I hope to see/meet many of you at the<br />
CAOAC convention this year. It’ll be my first and I’m looking<br />
forward to it.<br />
See you at the meeting/convention,<br />
Cam Turner & Tanya Morose<br />
Newsletter Editors, KWAS<br />
See you at the meeting!<br />
Phil Maznyk<br />
Interim President (former VP), KWAS<br />
4
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Store Directory<br />
If you know of any stores we’re missing, please email the BOD.<br />
<strong>Aquarium</strong> Services (Big Al’s) Ω Φ! <strong>Kitchener</strong>, Ontario<br />
www.BigAlsCanada.com!(519) 894-1810<br />
508 Wilson Ave.<br />
The Fish Sempai Ω Φ!<br />
www.FishSempai.com !(519) 648-9992<br />
By Appointment Only<br />
Breslau, Ontario<br />
Mc’s Petworld Ω Φ!<br />
Cambridge, Ontario<br />
Email: mcspetworld@rogers.com!(519) 241-2691<br />
Currently By Appointment Only<br />
Tropical Fish Room Ω Φ!<br />
Brantford, Ontario<br />
www.TropicalFishRoom.ca!(519) 756-6225<br />
166 Grand River Ave.<br />
John’s Fish Food Ω!<br />
<strong>Kitchener</strong>, Ontario<br />
www.JohnsFishFood.com!(519) 897-1567<br />
By Appointment Only.<br />
The Fish Bowl Ω!<br />
Elmira, Ontario<br />
www.inTheFishBowl.net!(519) 669-0202<br />
120 Oriole Parkway, Unit #4<br />
Garden Supermart Ω!<br />
Cambridge, Ontario<br />
www.GardenSupermart.com!(519) 624-2554<br />
Homegrown Hydroponics Ω Φ!<br />
www.Hydroponics.ca!(519) 648-2374<br />
79 Woolwich Street South, Unit #4<br />
Breslau, Ontario<br />
Moore Water Gardens Φ!<br />
Port Stanley, Ontario<br />
www.MooreWaterGardens.com!(519) 782-4052<br />
PO Box 70, 4683 Sunset Rd.<br />
The Fish Place Φ!<br />
N. Tonawanda, NY<br />
141 Robinson St., 14120! (716) 693-4411<br />
<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show<br />
Each year KWAS holds a Jar Show competition where members<br />
bring their most prized fish to our monthly meetings to share<br />
with others, compete and teach. The various classes and basic<br />
rules are laid out below, but first the <strong>2010</strong> Standings. After four<br />
months of competition this is where we stand:<br />
! Seniors:! Points<br />
! Zenin Skomorowski!18<br />
! Alan Smiley!12<br />
! Tony Gibbons!4<br />
! Al Ridley!4<br />
! Juniors:! Points<br />
! Jonathon Samson!44<br />
! Griffin Quigley!6<br />
There is a limit of two fish per person per class. You may also<br />
bring any species of the featured classes in any other month;<br />
they will be entered in any other variety also known as AOV. If<br />
you have any other non-fish creatures, or odd-ball fish, they can<br />
be entered in the AOV class. If you have any questions about<br />
the Jar Show Competition please contact Dave Boehm.<br />
<strong>2010</strong> Jar Show Classes:<br />
January: !<br />
February: !<br />
March: !<br />
April: !<br />
<strong>May</strong>: !<br />
Dwarf Cichlids / Rainbow fish<br />
Rift Lake Cichlids<br />
Characins<br />
Catfish<br />
Loaches & Killifish<br />
Also a BIG thank you to the following manufacturers for<br />
donating goods to our 2009 Oktoberfish Auction:<br />
Rolf C Hagen, Danner Manufacturing, Brown Trout Publishing,<br />
Martin Mills Inc., Doctors Foster and Smith, Plecocaves.com,<br />
Casco Inc, Tetra & SeaChem (Star <strong>Aquarium</strong> Products).<br />
June: !<br />
September: !<br />
October: !<br />
November: !<br />
Cyprinids<br />
Livebearers<br />
Large American Cichlids<br />
Anabantids & Plants<br />
Ω KWAS member discount of 10% or more (does not apply to tanks or glass).<br />
Φ Supports KWAS through participation in our annual Oktoberfish event.<br />
We highly encourage you to check the above websites for store hours.<br />
Everyone is encouraged to participate. For tips on how to enter,<br />
what to bring and what to look for ask any of the competitors<br />
above. They obviously know a thing or two about it :).<br />
5
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Adventures in DIY: The Bottle Trap<br />
Submitted by Jayne Glazier, KWAS (jandj.glazier@sympatico.ca). Photos provided by the author.<br />
It has always been my private conviction that any man who<br />
pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.<br />
~John Steinbeck<br />
I found this great quote on a fishing related website and it put<br />
me in mind of the challenge of trying to catch aquarium fish in<br />
heavily furnished tanks. Everyone from LFS staff to private<br />
hobbyists and breeders have had the battle of trying to catch<br />
fish that really don't want to be caught. And losing.<br />
So you want to catch some fish. And your tank looks like this:<br />
Why do we set a fish trap If you have ever seen a minnow<br />
trap or lobster pot it is based on that design. It relies on the<br />
advanced technological knowledge of thousands of years of<br />
human intelligence that fish can't find their way out of narrow<br />
openings when the opening is inverted into a container.<br />
Nobody told the fish that theory but surprisingly it does work<br />
8/10 times. It all comes down to a battle of wits.<br />
The Bottle Trap. The benefits to this method are plentiful. We<br />
can go away from the tank and allow the fish's natural hunger/<br />
greed/curiosity to catch it/them for us. It allows absolutely<br />
less stress for the fishkeeper, more time to spend on aquabid or<br />
talking to our fishhead friends and is almost certainly less<br />
taxing for the fish. On top of that you don't have to move the<br />
bubbling diver or treasure chest figurines.<br />
So how do we go about making an inexpensive and effective<br />
fish trap First: gauge the size of the fish involved. Is it small<br />
Is it large Fish girth guesstimation is the first skill needed.<br />
Can that fish(es) swim through the hole in the lid of a water<br />
bottle Pop bottle Bread Box How many are you looking at<br />
catching at once Do you want to catch 3 guppies but not your<br />
full sized plecos If you need anything larger than a harpoon to<br />
catch the fish then this may not work for you.<br />
You could tear down the whole tank. It has only taken you 3<br />
months to grow it in and that fish that needs relocating is in<br />
dire straits....or you are in dire straits because you want the fish<br />
gone<br />
You could try to catch it with a net, or even two nets. That<br />
really does work for mid zone fishes that usually don't spend<br />
too much time on the bottom or hiding in the weeds and if you<br />
don't have a lot of branchy driftwood....basically it works for<br />
fish that school in lightly decorated/planted tanks.<br />
If neither or these options appeal to you or work the first time,<br />
then the other option is to set the trap.<br />
For argument's sake and because they are little brats to catch,<br />
let's say we are trying to catch some rather canny full grown<br />
corydoras. These fish know all the hidey holes and can squeeze<br />
under rocks, plants etc. They are also pretty greedy.<br />
First step in the plan: Don't feed your fish that day or find<br />
something extra yummy to bait the trap with.<br />
We can use a water bottle trap to catch one or a few fish at a<br />
time or a large container with the same sized opening for more.<br />
Materials:<br />
• One empty 500 or 750 ml water bottle.<br />
• Pair scissors<br />
• Tape (hockey shin pad tape works great, is waterproof and<br />
transparent. Duct tape works too but is not see through so<br />
useless)<br />
Method:<br />
1. Carefully poke a hole into the bottle with the scissors right<br />
at the shoulder (where the bottle just starts to narrow<br />
towards the top, then insert the scissors and carefully and<br />
semi evenly cut all around the bottle to meet at the start<br />
point. You now have a topless bottle (a flimsy cup) and a<br />
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M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
funnel.<br />
7. Carefully submerge the trap into the tank making sure the<br />
air bubbles are expelled through the end hole.<br />
2. Flip the top of the bottle over and invert the opening into<br />
the bottom.<br />
3. Apply a short piece of tape to one side of the new lid to act<br />
as a hinge.<br />
8. Go away. DO NOT STAY AND WATCH YOUR FISH...<br />
THEY WILL TAUNT YOU BY SWIMMING CLOSE TO,<br />
INTO AND BACK OUT OF YOUR TRAP IF THEY KNOW<br />
YOU ARE WATCHING... Go read your latest copy of Fins<br />
and Tales, post a fish joke in the Forum Humour Section<br />
etc...<br />
9. Come back and lift out your full fish trap. Over a bucket or<br />
container, carefully peel back the longer piece of tape and<br />
flip open the trap (water will be dripping out the bottom<br />
where the hole is so don't be overly long about it)<br />
4. Cut a longer piece of tape to fasten the other side of the lid<br />
closed so it won't open.<br />
5. Puncture a hole at the flat end of the bottle trap trying to<br />
make sure there aren't any sharp edges sticking into the<br />
trap.<br />
6. Bait the trap.<br />
10. Pour out the fish into the container. Sort out the ones that<br />
you didn't want to catch this time. (This always happens)<br />
Re-bait and reuse as needed.<br />
Additional notes: To catch mid zone fish, thread a piece of<br />
fishing line or thread through the bottle and bottom hole and<br />
use it to suspend the trap in the mid water area. I use sticky<br />
tack to hold the trap line in place on the outside of the glass but<br />
tape will work too.<br />
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You can use several of these on multiple tanks at the same<br />
time, just setting, catching and emptying them all in rotation.<br />
Please never leave a trap set overnight. The fish do get<br />
stressed in their confined area and can panic themselves to<br />
death. Corys certainly have stress issues if they can't surface to<br />
gulp air occasionally. After a few episodes in the same day, you<br />
should take a break for a while. They can learn how to get out<br />
or avoid the trap altogether. The good news is that they don't<br />
remember long term and it can be used successfully again and<br />
again. Remember to sterilize your trap between uses and<br />
tanks or use a dedicated trap for each tank. You can make a<br />
new trap each time if you desire but we are all about reducing,<br />
reusing and recycling here at KWAS!<br />
The fish will taunt you if you watch. Go write something for Fins and Tales.<br />
Good hunting! - Jayne<br />
Are Overflow<br />
Boxes Safe<br />
Submitted By Melad, KWAS Forum Member<br />
(http://kwas.ca/forum/member.phpu=4166)<br />
Are overflow boxes safe That was a question that was<br />
boggling my mind ever since I planned on getting one. Before I<br />
get into whether or not they’re safe, let me tell you what<br />
overflow boxes are. Several different types of overflows are<br />
available.<br />
The most simple is the U tube type. Most have a box that hang<br />
inside the main tank with the U tubes connecting to a box<br />
hanging on the outside of the tank. If the tank water level<br />
drops, it falls beneath the edge of the box in the tank, which<br />
stops the water level from dropping any more. The box hanging<br />
on the outside of the tank is either split into two compartments<br />
(one side holds some water then as it fills the water cascades<br />
over into the other half which is fitted with a bulkhead to the<br />
sump), or in some cases there is a pipe sticking up from the<br />
bottom of the box where there is a bulkhead fitting. If the pump<br />
stops (electrical failure), the water level in the box only drops as<br />
low as either the pipe sticking out of the bulkhead or the level<br />
of the divider. In either case when the pump kicks back on the<br />
level of the water raises enough to start flowing again. The edge<br />
of the divider or the pipe sticking out of the bulkhead in the<br />
outside box is higher than the bottom of the box inside of the<br />
aquarium to prevent siphon break.<br />
The other option works with the use of an aqua lifter pump<br />
(able to lift small amounts of water as well as suck up air).<br />
Instead of tubes, most of these use a closed boxed chamber to<br />
carry water over the edge of the tank. These lose siphon easily<br />
but use the lifter pump to pull air out of the chamber and start<br />
siphoning that way.<br />
The overflow boxes that are built to maintain a siphon in a<br />
power outage are very reliable. The dangerous part with a<br />
power outage is actually the siphoning of the return line of the<br />
pump, which is corrected by having a check valve, or a hole<br />
drilled on the return pipe above the water level in the tank.<br />
KWAS:<br />
Celebrating 50 years<br />
The max GPH of an overflow box depends on 3 things; the size<br />
of the bulkhead going from the outer box to the sump, the size<br />
of the siphon tube, and the slots on the box inside of the<br />
aquarium. The maximum GPH is determined on the minimum<br />
GPH of the previous 3 things.<br />
Bottom line Yes, an overflow box is safe, as is a DIY (do it<br />
yourself) overflow box if you know what your doing.<br />
- Melad<br />
8
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
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Your Convention Committee<br />
Dave Boehm / Bob Wright / Ann Stevens / Noel Wright / Ken Boorman / Terry Little<br />
GUEST SPEAKERS<br />
David Boruchowitz<br />
Spencer Jack<br />
Ad Konings<br />
Ray ‘Kingfish’ Lucas<br />
Oliver Lucanus<br />
Lee Newman<br />
SPECIAL<br />
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Ticket price includes the following at no extra charge<br />
Lunch meal Saturday<br />
Catered banquet dinner Saturday night<br />
SPECIAL<br />
DRAWS<br />
Breakfast meal Sunday morning<br />
CAOAC Executive meeting, Annual Elections & Awards Presentations<br />
Bring your fish, reptiles, amphibians, plants, crafts & photos to show<br />
Large Auction Sunday afternoon<br />
All for only $75 per person!<br />
Purchase your tickets online.<br />
Bring the family! Lots to see and do in the area!<br />
Visit www.caoac.ca for all the convention details<br />
BOOK EARLY TO GET OUR<br />
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9
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Name That Fish<br />
Hosted By Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca).<br />
For our April meeting we had 3 bags of fish to guess since we<br />
only had one for February (one bag ended up forgotten and left<br />
behind at home) and I was determined not to bring stumpers<br />
this time. The first fish was one that everyone has heard of<br />
before - Carassius auratus auratus or the common goldfish. The<br />
group did have an interesting time finding the right questions<br />
and whittling down the possibilities and I began getting<br />
nervous as to whether this bag would end up on the auction<br />
table again but Dave Boehm came through with the correct<br />
answer. I am told that they will find a home in his rain barrel<br />
and will be put on mosquito detail for the season.<br />
will eat almost anything that they can get into them. They will<br />
eat flake, pellets, worms and pretty much any frozen foods<br />
offered. Care should be taken when handling these fish as many<br />
a net has been ruined when their rather sharp and serrated fins<br />
get caught up in the mesh.<br />
It was one of the earliest fish to be domesticated, and is one of<br />
the most commonly kept aquarium fish. A relatively small<br />
member of the carp family (which also includes the koi carp<br />
and the crucian carp), the goldfish is a domesticated version of<br />
a dark-gray/olive/brown carp (Carassius auratus) native to east<br />
Asia.<br />
The last bag was donated by Cam Turner and contained a nice<br />
treat of four young black Altolamprologus calvus. These are rather<br />
nice fish and they aren’t seen very often. Unfortunately, they<br />
were guessed quicker than even our goldfish by Alex Campbell,<br />
as these fish had actually been on his mind for a new tank he<br />
had set up. Let that be a lesson to our members to stick up their<br />
hands and help participate in NTF – you never know what you<br />
might be taking home – and the quicker you guess the fish, the<br />
sooner I’ll be finished talking.<br />
Goldfish may grow to a maximum length of 23 inches and a<br />
maximum weight of 10 pounds (4 kg) although this is rare;<br />
most individual goldfish grow to under half this size. In<br />
optimal conditions, goldfish may live more than 40 years;<br />
however, most household goldfish generally live six to eight<br />
years.<br />
The next bag of fish was again guessed by Dave Boehm and he<br />
also took home two Pimelodella pictus, commonly called a<br />
spotted pictus or angelicus catfish.<br />
These are native to South America, from the rivers and<br />
waterways of Brazil, Peru and Columbia. They will grow to<br />
about 10 inches and are an active, peaceful tank resident,<br />
although as with most catfish they do have large mouths and<br />
Calvus are African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika growing to 6<br />
inches with a lifespan of 12 years. They are considered a<br />
peaceful cichlid but are quite predatory and should not be kept<br />
with smaller fish. They should be given a high protein diet and<br />
prefer live foods, but will eat flake and frozen foods. - Ed<br />
10
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Exchange Editor’s Report<br />
Submitted by Zenin Skomorowski, KWAS (zenin@golden.net).<br />
The newsletters featured in this column and others are available to<br />
you. Please let me know by email, or at the monthly meeting, which<br />
ones you would like to read.<br />
Crayfish can be an interesting part of the aquarium hobby.<br />
Udo Rohmann wrote about Cambarellus patzsuarensis in the<br />
February <strong>2010</strong> issue of Hi-Fin from the Peel Regional<br />
<strong>Aquarium</strong> Club. This dwarf freshwater crayfish comes from<br />
Lago de Patzcuaro in Mexico. The water there is 15 to 25C<br />
with a ph of 7.5 to 8.5, very easy to recreate in the home<br />
aquarium. There are several colour forms, the brightest being<br />
orange. Read in this article about the other tank parameters<br />
and what to feed these crustaceans. Also in this issue, Udo<br />
wrote about various types of filtration; mechanical, biological,<br />
chemical and replacement. Most modern filters use more than<br />
one method.<br />
An interesting but shy fish is the Striped Raphael catfish. It is<br />
sometimes known as the talking catfish. It will make a<br />
croaking sound when in the net. Tom Heisler wrote about his<br />
experiences with this beautiful catfish in the March <strong>2010</strong> issue<br />
of Some Things Fishy from the Tropical Fish club of Erie<br />
County.<br />
The March/April <strong>2010</strong> issue of Fincinnati from the Greater<br />
Cincinnati <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> has several spawning reports.<br />
Check out Albino Eureka Reds and Altolamprologus<br />
compressiceps “Gold Face”, both by Jerry Riegel. Have you<br />
ever wanted to ship fish across the country John Pasnau<br />
wrote “How to Pack and Ship Fish with Breathable Bags”.<br />
There is a complete set of supporting photos documenting the<br />
procedure – well done !<br />
Roger L. Sieloff has had success keeping and breeding the<br />
Clown Killifish Pseudepiplayts annulatus. A breeding trio of<br />
these very small 3 cm fish can be kept in as little as a 2.5 gallon<br />
tank. Read more about the setup and their breeding<br />
behaviour in the April <strong>2010</strong> issue of Fancy Fins from the Circle<br />
City <strong>Aquarium</strong> Club. Also in this issue, Mike Matthews wrote<br />
about “Keeping and Breeding Crystal Red Shrimp” and<br />
Charley Grimes wrote about Characodon audax, a Goodeid<br />
livebearer.<br />
Do you need help keeping Micro-worm and White-worm<br />
cultures Do you even feed your fish live foods All the<br />
instructions you need for maintaining cultures of either<br />
worms are in the April <strong>2010</strong> issue of The Scat from the St.<br />
Catharines and Area <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. In another<br />
instructional article, Dave Unruh wrote about “How to Strip<br />
Eggs from a Cichlid and Make Your Own Egg Hatcher”. Tom<br />
Hillier wrote about Ameca splendens, the Butterfly Goodied.<br />
They will eat many types of algae. Keeping and breeding<br />
them in the hobby is important because they are endangered in<br />
the wild due to habitat loss.<br />
The Greater City <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> of New York has produced<br />
another hefty issue of Modern <strong>Aquarium</strong> for April <strong>2010</strong>. If you<br />
are looking to give a beautiful and informative book to a fish<br />
keeping hobbyist, look for Encyclopedia of <strong>Aquarium</strong> & Pond<br />
Fish by David Alderton. In her book review column Wet<br />
Leaves, Susan Priest compliments this book on it’s beautiful<br />
photography and the information contained on its 400 pages.<br />
Stephen Sica wrote about “My Favorite <strong>Aquarium</strong>”. It is an<br />
eight gallon Oceanic Bio-Cube, containing a filter, sump and<br />
submersible water pump. The hood contains two compact<br />
fluorescent bulbs and a couple of blue LED night lights, a very<br />
nice option. Read more about what aquascaping and fish that<br />
Stephen keeps in his Bio-Cube. We all have probably heard<br />
about hybrid fish and especially those of African cichlids.<br />
Tommy Chang wrote about his experiences and research done<br />
on this sensitive topic in “The Pseudotropheus polit Project or<br />
What I Learned about African Cichlids and Hybrids”. When I<br />
was much younger, I was always tempted by the<br />
advertisements in comic books for “Sea Monkeys”. Today, we<br />
know that they are just a variant on the brine shrimp that many<br />
fish keepers raise to feed their fish. Another kit available today<br />
is “Dinosaur Shrimp” or “Triassic Triops”. Read why these<br />
creatures are way more interesting in “A Very Unusual<br />
Creature” by “The Undergravel Reporter”.<br />
There are two BAP reports of interest to read in the April <strong>2010</strong><br />
issue of Aqua Antics from the Sarnia <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong>. First up<br />
is Peter Melady describing his experiences with Cryptoheros<br />
Cutteri. This cichlid from Honduras, is relatively small but<br />
hardy and changes its colours when spawning. Second is<br />
Wayne Cole with Telmatochromis temporalis. This cichlid from<br />
Lake Tanganyika is also a relatively small fish but can be quite<br />
aggressive to tank mates.<br />
Surf’s up!<br />
Here are this month’s web sites to explore:<br />
Canadian Association of <strong>Aquarium</strong> Clubs – CAOAC<br />
Convention coming up in <strong>May</strong> in Oakville, Ontario, Canada:<br />
www.caoac.ca/convention.html<br />
The Menagerie Pet Shop in Toronto, Ontario, Canada:<br />
www.menageriepetshop.com new arrivals -<br />
www.menageriepetshop.com/fish/new-arrivals.html<br />
11
Meeting Minutes<br />
Minutes of the April <strong>2010</strong><br />
General Meeting<br />
Acting President/Vice President Phil<br />
Maznyk called the meeting to order at<br />
7:34 pm with 42 people present. Guests<br />
were welcomed and asked to sign our<br />
guest book with Mary Lynne and get a<br />
complimentary copy of our newsletter.<br />
Announcements<br />
Reminder of the upcoming CAOAC<br />
Convention. Postcards are available at the<br />
front or at the membership desk.<br />
Elections<br />
• Cam Turner made a motion to open the<br />
nominations for KWAS Executive<br />
positions for <strong>2010</strong>/2011.<br />
• Brad Smith nominated Phil Maznyk for<br />
President. No other nominations came<br />
from the floor.<br />
• Nominations can be sent to Mary Lynne<br />
and must be received before the start of<br />
the Business meeting April 13 th at 7:30<br />
pm.<br />
Constitution<br />
Phil asked for a motion to accept the<br />
Constitution and By-Law changes as<br />
printed in the newsletter. Rein Breitmaier<br />
motioned to accept the changes<br />
recommended by the Executive. Brad<br />
Smith seconded the motion. 26 members<br />
voted in favour of the changes, none<br />
voted against and none abstained. The<br />
changes are now in effect and the<br />
documents will be updated.<br />
HAP<br />
• Ed Koerner received certificates<br />
BAP<br />
• Ed Koerner and Al Ridley received<br />
certificates<br />
Name That Fish<br />
• Carassius aratus (goldfish) won by<br />
Dave Boehm<br />
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
• Pimelodus pictus won by Dave Boehm<br />
• Altolamprologus calvus (donated by<br />
Cam Turner) won by Alex Campbell<br />
Program<br />
• Jerry Draper spoke to the group on<br />
Breeding Techniques.<br />
Show Jar<br />
• There were no entries in this months<br />
contest<br />
• Dave announced that he had swept the<br />
show with his two Name That Fish<br />
winnings<br />
• Next month is Killifish, Loaches and<br />
AOV<br />
Auction<br />
• Ed sold a selection of fish and plants<br />
Library Draw<br />
• Cam Turner won the library draw<br />
Raffle<br />
• Rein Breitmaier won a gift certificate to<br />
Living <strong>Aquarium</strong> in Cambridge.<br />
• Alex Campbell won a gift certificate to<br />
The Tropical Fishroom in Brantford.<br />
Meeting was adjourned at 9:21 pm.<br />
Minutes of the April <strong>2010</strong><br />
Business Meeting<br />
The meeting was called to order at 7:30<br />
pm at the McClanahan home.<br />
Executive present: Phil Maznyk, Brad<br />
McClanahan and Al Ridley.<br />
BOD present: Ryan Barton, Terry<br />
Clements, Katie McClanahan, Mary<br />
Lynne Lucier, Zenin Skomorowski and<br />
Ed Koerner<br />
Motion to accept the March Business<br />
meeting minutes as published made by<br />
Ryan, seconded by Terry… V&C<br />
Ryan suggested a change to the April<br />
General Meeting minutes. Motion to<br />
accept the April General meeting minutes<br />
as emailed and amended made by Katie,<br />
seconded by Brad. V&C<br />
Future Business meetings – Dave Boehm<br />
will host the <strong>May</strong> business meeting.<br />
Zenin will host the June business<br />
meeting.<br />
Treasurers report read by Brad and<br />
accepted on a motion made by Zenin,<br />
seconded by Mary Lynne. V&C<br />
Correspondence<br />
• No correspondence<br />
Committee Reports<br />
Newsletter (Cam)<br />
• Absent: nothing to report<br />
Webmaster (Phil)<br />
• OVAS (Ottawa Valley <strong>Aquarium</strong><br />
<strong>Society</strong>) asked us for advice in<br />
controlling their forum. We have sent<br />
them a letter outlining our Terms Of<br />
Service and how we enforce them.<br />
• Tim Bellhouse (Kingfisher) has joined<br />
the moderator team<br />
• Apisto-nut’s section has been hidden<br />
due to inactivity.<br />
Program (Al)<br />
• <strong>May</strong> – Frank Aguirre on Synodontis<br />
• June – KWAS Pizza Party/50 th year<br />
celebrations<br />
• September – Tianna (Tye) on<br />
Aquascaping<br />
• Future meeting – Klaus on the CARES<br />
program<br />
June Meeting Suggestions<br />
• Cake with KWAS logo – Al to order<br />
from Sobey’s<br />
• Zenin to pick six photos from the past<br />
year for publication<br />
• Ask Zenin to create a slide show –<br />
KWAS in review (how far back do we<br />
have pictures)<br />
12
• Mary Lynne to look into KWAS 50 year<br />
pins. Tomkar and RH Imprint will be<br />
approached to quote.<br />
• Lifetime members<br />
• A motion to allow Zenin to purchase a<br />
55 gallon kit for a main prize in June<br />
was made by Ed, seconded by Mary<br />
Lynne. V&C<br />
• A motion to allow Brad to purchase a<br />
$100.00 gift certificate and three $50.00<br />
gift certificates for prizes was made by<br />
Mary Lynne, seconded by Ed. V&C<br />
• Ed will contact Rhonda at Pepi’s Pizza<br />
and order the same as last year for<br />
delivery at 8 pm<br />
• Mary Lynne will order balloons<br />
• Al will remind the media contacts<br />
• Executive and BOD are asked to be at<br />
the meeting room at 7 pm sharp<br />
Exchanges (Zenin)<br />
• Al Ridley was reprinted in the<br />
Hamilton publication<br />
CAOAC (Phil)<br />
• CAOAC Convention registration is<br />
going well<br />
• CAOAC shirts are available online<br />
• Ed will pick up the $51.00 and the<br />
$50.00 gift cards KWAS has committed<br />
to for the Presidents Challenge for the<br />
CAOAC Convention.<br />
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Membership (Mary Lynne)<br />
• Two new members plus an anonymous<br />
donated membership for Tesca.<br />
• Family Membership requirements may<br />
need to be review for the next update.<br />
• Phil will assist Mary Lynne with a<br />
database review to see if it can be made<br />
more user friendly.<br />
Auction (open)<br />
• No report<br />
Library (Terry)<br />
• No books were returned however<br />
members acknowledged that they had<br />
books out.<br />
Raffle (Katie)<br />
• Discussed ways to increase ticket sales.<br />
Katie will work the room to sell more<br />
tickets.<br />
HAP (Ed)<br />
• Ed advised the team of his<br />
dissatisfaction of the way his points<br />
and forms have been handled. The<br />
Executive explained that incomplete<br />
forms (inspection signatures) are the<br />
responsibility of the member, not of the<br />
Executive. The club is trying to bring<br />
integrity back to the program by<br />
enforcing the requirements of the<br />
programs especially where CAOAC<br />
awards requirements are met.<br />
BAP (Ryan)<br />
• Nothing to report<br />
Name That Fish (Ed)<br />
• Nothing to report<br />
Show Jar (Dave Boehm)<br />
• Absent: nothing to report<br />
Lunch Counter (Dave Bradley)<br />
• Absent<br />
Pet Store Liaison (Zenin and Al)<br />
• Al placed club flyers in Something’s<br />
Fishy in Owen Sound.<br />
• Talked about The Pet Pantry in Guelph<br />
and Fishy Business in Georgetown.<br />
Old Business<br />
• We now have the CTV Oktoberfish clip.<br />
Cam will post it to You Tube and link it<br />
to our website when he has time.<br />
New Business<br />
• Upcoming elections of the Executive<br />
will be held in <strong>May</strong>. Board of Directors<br />
will be appointed in June. Please advise<br />
an Executive if you are interested in<br />
any position. We will post in the forum<br />
to reach as many members as possible.<br />
Constitution review<br />
• Phil will update the Constitution and<br />
By-Laws and repost to the website.<br />
• Mary Lynne will email the document to<br />
our membership list.<br />
Motion to close the meeting was made by<br />
Katie. Seconded by Mary Lynne. V&C at<br />
10:01 pm.<br />
<strong>Aquarium</strong> Kit to be given away to a KWAS Member at the June Meeting<br />
Kit contains:<br />
- 55 gallon glass aquarium 48 x 13 x 21<br />
- Top Fin 60 Power Filter with 2 cartridges<br />
- 2 canopies, each with one fluorescent tube<br />
- 200 watt submersible heater<br />
- 6" net, LCD thermometer, water treatment samples<br />
Qualifications to win:<br />
- You must use your <strong>2010</strong> KWAS membership card to enter<br />
- Maximum of 2 membership cards per family<br />
- You must be present when the draw is made<br />
- You must be able to take the kit home that night (box is just over 4 feet long, will fit on the back seat of most automobiles)<br />
13
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
PlantED Tank: The Cover Up<br />
Hosted By Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca). Photos by Zenin Skomorowski.<br />
Well, hello again all that have been wondering where I’ve been<br />
and why I haven’t been writing. For those that didn’t miss me –<br />
what can I say that hasn’t been said about me at one time or<br />
another already I have been rather busy with more hours at<br />
work and although I have had ideas running through my head<br />
for articles, I have not been able to sit down and make myself<br />
actually put them down for Cam to print. For some of you with<br />
plant questions and queries you have been able to hunt me<br />
down anyway and pick my brain but I have actually missed<br />
putting in an article – and qualifying plants that are on my<br />
HAP list of course. So, in the immortal words of Bugs Bunny…..<br />
“On with the show.”<br />
People have asked me a lot about choosing good ground cover<br />
plants. It is easy to find various plants for the mid and back<br />
ground for different light conditions. I can come up with a half<br />
dozen plants quite quickly for low, medium or high light tanks<br />
with no problem at all. But, then people want something low<br />
and covering for the front of their tanks - now we run into some<br />
trouble. For those of you that have low light plant set ups,<br />
please bear with me but I will tell you right now that there are<br />
only two plants that come to mind that will do well or survive<br />
in your aquarium. Sorry, but that is all that I can give you at the<br />
moment. I will list them at the end of this so that you will have<br />
to work through the whole article to find out just what they are.<br />
For the rest of you, I will say that most low cover plants require<br />
at least medium light with high light being better and CO2<br />
injection helping considerably to giving a look that might<br />
approach that underwater lawn effect that many people are<br />
looking for.<br />
Now, there are many reasons for this. Many of the plants that<br />
we use for cover plants are not naturally submersed or would<br />
grow in shallow water. When we put them in our tanks they<br />
may be in a 16-20 inch deep tank which is deeper than they<br />
have evolved in to begin with and need some help. Also, light is<br />
absorbed and diffracted as it travels deeper in water and by the<br />
time it gets to the plants there is much less available that what<br />
they need to be healthy and robust. Another reason that plants<br />
don’t grow, or grow so much better when given CO2 is simply<br />
that they are used to greater amounts of CO2 in natural settings.<br />
If a plant grows in the air, there is much more CO2 available to<br />
it in a gaseous environment than when submerged under water.<br />
Also, there is much more CO2 available at an aquarium’s<br />
surface where there are many gas exchanges going on<br />
constantly, rather than 12 or 18 inches underwater. This is one of<br />
the reasons that floating plants will do so much better in most<br />
aquariums, along with getting much more light, of course.<br />
Now that we have established the light requirements for<br />
growing most cover plants let’s look at what other issues most<br />
people will be frustrated by. I know that many people thinking<br />
about planted tanks have looked at photos and shots of<br />
manicured aquascapes that look like lawns – picturesque lush<br />
green growth forming rolling carpets over the substrate. Well,<br />
there are some secrets to these set ups. They are not generally<br />
community tanks and often have been painstakingly crafted for<br />
the final planted effect, with not a lot of consideration given to<br />
keeping fish. Most of us want to keep fish and have a planted<br />
tank. This is a bit more difficult.<br />
Most small groundcovers have very shallow and fine root<br />
systems. Hemianthus callitrichoides, or dwarf baby tears - HC as<br />
most planties call it, is a favourite choice but has when<br />
purchased will usually have roots that are only a quarter of an<br />
inch long, if that and usually grown in a fibre that you should<br />
remove before planting. If you also like to have plecos, loaches<br />
or corys in your tank, you can spend as much money as you like<br />
on HC and never see it get a foothold. Fish will dig, uproot, tear<br />
apart, and generally have a little party in your greenery and<br />
never think twice about it. These fish naturally scour the<br />
substrate for food and knowing that you have spent your time<br />
and patience trying your best to make these plants grow, they<br />
will take even greater delight in watching each one float to the<br />
top. If you think I am joking, simply look at the gleam in their<br />
eyes while they are doing just that. The other obstacle to<br />
growing new plants is the substrate itself. If it is too coarse there<br />
will be nothing for the small and fine roots to get a hold in.<br />
They may come loose even without the assistance of carousing<br />
bottom dwellers. Some people do not care for sand substrate<br />
but I find it one of the better ones for fine roots to take hold. I<br />
know of some that have mixed sand or fluorite in with other<br />
types of substrate such as Eco-Complete with good results.<br />
River stone would be the other end of the spectrum and it is<br />
completely out. Really, the finer the product the easier it will be<br />
for finer roots to get a hold and start to growing. One trick that<br />
sometimes works is to place a small piece of glass over the new<br />
plant with a few stones as supports to allow some water flow<br />
through the leaves. This will protect the plant from fish<br />
disturbing it while it is developing some root structure.<br />
This brings me to yet one more challenge to growing successful<br />
ground covers – water flow. If you have too much current for<br />
new plants, they can be uprooted and carried away and can’t<br />
get a start. One the flip side of that, if there is not enough<br />
current, you will have debris such as fish waste, left over food<br />
and decaying plant matter get caught in the finer leaves and<br />
choke off growth or suffocate the plant. This will lead to an<br />
early death. Also, without water flow, you may get a build up of<br />
various algaes develop and these will also choke off your plants<br />
over time, as well as look unsightly. Even if you are using CO2<br />
14
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
in your tank, you will need a good circulation in the tank to<br />
make sure your CO2 is reaching all your plants.<br />
Now, if you are still with me and still hoping to grow some<br />
ground covers in your planted tank, then I will list some that I<br />
have tried and add a few options and suggestions.<br />
tangle as a chain of several plants. Chain sword can quickly<br />
become unruly if not kept trimmed and its invasiveness<br />
controlled.<br />
Eleocharis<br />
Blyxa<br />
This is a nice little grass-like plant that tends to need higher<br />
light conditions. It grows into a tuft of short spikey leaves with<br />
short roots and can be a problem to establish. Once it takes hold<br />
though it develops quickly into groups of plants bunched<br />
together at the center stem. These can be easily divided into<br />
more plants and a nice grove can be had over time. Blyxa<br />
japonica grows about 3 inches tall while Blyxa echinosperma<br />
aubertii grows taller to about 6 inches and is the harder to grow<br />
and more seldom seem of the two. These definitely do better<br />
with CO2 available. They take some time to establish and are<br />
not seen very often in the marketplace but are well worth<br />
looking for.<br />
Cryptocoryne parva<br />
Eleocharis parvula Dwarf Hair Grass<br />
This is the family of dwarf hair grasses. The leaves are very thin<br />
and fine but very close together. The roots are quite fine and it is<br />
difficult to establish in a coarse substrate. Good water flow is<br />
needed for this plant as it tends to be a magnet for debris of all<br />
kinds and can quickly become a suffocated mess. If not given<br />
enough light it will yellow and soon fall apart littering the tank<br />
with old pieces of leaves. It is slow to establish and slow to<br />
spread. It is often easier to purchase several tubs of the plant,<br />
break them up and create a small matt rather than waiting for<br />
them to propagate themselves.<br />
Glossostigma elatinoides<br />
Cryptocoryne parva<br />
Most crypts are considered low light plants but this specimen<br />
tends to require more light than its cousins. Unfortunately, the<br />
extra light also makes it susceptible to hair algae quite often. It<br />
is a small 2 inch plant that grows slowly like most crypts but<br />
makes for a nice foreground crypt variety. It stays green under<br />
high light and will slowly form a cluster of plants from root<br />
runners.<br />
Echinodorus tenellus<br />
This is the smallest of the sword family, its very thin blades<br />
reaching about 2 inches in height and looking like grass. It is<br />
called pygmy chain sword and once established will send out<br />
straight runners of new shoots that can spread across the<br />
bottom of the aquarium. It can do fine in medium light and will<br />
establish a solid root structure fairly quickly and easily. It may<br />
be easier to break apart new plants as they tend to uproot and<br />
Glossostigma elatinoides<br />
This can be a frustrating plant that leaves one scratching their<br />
head. It can be difficult to establish and requires a medium high<br />
level of light. I have had several failed attempts in growing this<br />
plant while watching it simply wilt and rot away into a pile of<br />
mulm. It has fine roots that can be challenging to take hold as<br />
15
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
well. But, once this plant has decided to make a go of it and<br />
actually stick around to grow, it can quickly become an out of<br />
control weed that will run anywhere that it can. It tends to grow<br />
taller after established and will start looking very leggy. It can<br />
be trimmed down short with scissors easily enough and this<br />
will allow it to branch out more and send out new runners. It<br />
will grow more solidly with CO2 and create a more dense and<br />
substantial mat.<br />
Hemianthus<br />
light and often have better root structures so have a bit more<br />
flexibility. Once established they will develop new plants<br />
through runners. CO2 and fertilizers are not needed for these<br />
plants to do well.<br />
Monosolenium tenerum<br />
Here are one of the plants that will do well under lower light<br />
conditions. It is often referred to as Pellia but this is now<br />
considered to be a mistaken identification. The plant is a<br />
liverwort, in that it does not actually have leaves, but what look<br />
like leaves are called thallus or green branches. This plant is<br />
heavier than water and will sink to the bottom where it tries at<br />
establish itself in nocks and crannies or between other plants<br />
and form little tufts that resemble a large riccia. It can be grown<br />
in a wide variety of condition, from cold to hot water, and<br />
shade to sunlight.<br />
Pogostemon helferi<br />
16<br />
Hemianthus callitrichoides Dwarf Baby Tears<br />
This is a group of plants known as baby’s tears. Again, having<br />
fine roots it can be difficult to establish in a community<br />
aquarium as it can be beat up and uprooted quite easily.<br />
Hemianthus callitrichoides or dwarf baby’s tears is a rather tiny<br />
leaved plant that can used to create that manicured lawn effect.<br />
It usually only grows about an inch from the surface and creates<br />
a tight and lush cover of green. It needs a medium high level of<br />
light and will do much better with CO2 injection. Once<br />
established it will form a dense carpet that will blend into the<br />
roots and stems of other plants until the larger plants look like<br />
they are growing out of the green layer of substrate. The plant is<br />
vulnerable to debris clogging it up so it should have some<br />
current or ritual cleaning. Hemianthus micranthemoides is a larger<br />
form of baby’s tears and tends to grow upward once<br />
established. It should be kept trimmed as it will shade out<br />
lower leaves and branches and this will kill off the bottom of<br />
the plant. The stems tend to be brittle and will break up easily if<br />
fish rummage around in it. When grown with CO2 the leaves<br />
grow larger to the point that can be mistaken for Bacopa.<br />
Lilaeopsis<br />
This is a family of micro swords. They are rather similar to<br />
chain swords at first glance but their leave structure from the<br />
plant’s crown tends to grow straight up rather than a gentle<br />
arched leave of the chain sword. The most common varieties are<br />
L. brasiliensis and L. “Mauritius” which grow to about 3 inches.<br />
There is a giant variety known as L. carolinesis that can grow to<br />
more than 12 inches tall. Micro swords will grow in medium<br />
This little plant is commonly known as downoi. It is a very<br />
different kind of plant, difficult to establish as it usually is<br />
found with small little roots and the leaves tend to break off<br />
easily when trying to plant it. It has a look of a succulent garden<br />
plant, with rings of curly leaves layered from the stem growing<br />
2 to 3 inches tall. It propagates by growing clusters of plants<br />
from the stem that can be broken up to form a larger grouping.<br />
One downfall to this plant is that plecos and corys tend to<br />
develop a taste for it once they find it. After that happens they<br />
tend to either chew it down to the stem or uproot it and leave<br />
bits of broken leaves floating around in the tank.<br />
Utricularia graminifolia<br />
Utricularia graminifolia<br />
The is an interesting little ground cover plant that will need<br />
high light and should have some CO2 to help get it established.<br />
It has very fine roots and will be difficult to establish in a<br />
community tank. It is a bladderwort and is actually a<br />
carnivorous plant. It will catch very small crustaceans and<br />
water life and digest the enzymes. Once established it will form<br />
...Continued on Page 18: PlantED Tank<br />
Official Publication of the <strong>Kitchener</strong>-<strong>Waterloo</strong> <strong>Aquarium</strong> <strong>Society</strong> (http://www.kwas.ca)
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
I Know What You Did Last Summer<br />
Article by Ed Koerner, KWAS (edkoerner@sympatico.ca). Photos provided by the Author.<br />
enjoy the different look – anything was better than plain ugly<br />
pavement that fills most of my back “yard”. I half filled it with<br />
tap water and then let nature take its course over a rainy<br />
weekend and let the rest fill by itself. I visited my folk’s pond<br />
and added several bunches of hornwort to act as an oxygenator<br />
and something for the fish to hide from each other and fry to<br />
escape to. I also planted some water iris, water lilies and<br />
cattails. In went several pieces of driftwood that I had tried to<br />
water log the previous summer but still didn’t have any luck<br />
sinking.<br />
Well, it is the time of year that we start looking outside again<br />
and wondering what we can do or what we can get away with.<br />
Most of us like to spend more time outside when the weather<br />
gets nicer and spend less time fussing over our tanks and fish<br />
inside. Some people look for a way to bring some fish outside to<br />
enjoy the weather as well. There are several ways of doing that<br />
– some people will build a pond but for some that is too much<br />
work or there isn’t time or space, or they would rather not<br />
invest in that kind of project. Some people will simply throw<br />
some fish into a rain barrel – this is usually done using some<br />
goldfish to help keep down the mosquitoes. They will devour<br />
larvae and grow quite nicely but tend to be rather bothersome<br />
to keep over the winter if you really don’t want to allocate a<br />
tank to them. Other fish will work as well. Guppies, platies and<br />
several other live bearers will work.<br />
Some people want to keep some fish they can see and a little tub<br />
or barrel set on the porch or patio will work just fine. You want<br />
to make sure that it doesn’t get too much direct sun that will<br />
raise the temperature to slow cook your fish. You could have<br />
some issues with cats and other animals that might discover<br />
your fish and decide to go for some late night snacks. Keeping<br />
some plants floating at the top will help with both problems a<br />
little bit but not completely.<br />
Then there are those of us that have run out of tank space and<br />
want to use the extra season to breed something outside and<br />
work on those BAP (Breeder’s Award Program) points. That’s<br />
what I decided to do last summer. I found an ad for a cheap<br />
plastic pond liner and decided to try keeping some fish<br />
outdoors for the summer. I had a 150 gallon kidney shaped<br />
insert for $50 and decided that I would try some livebearers out<br />
back. It was about 60”x 36”x16” deep with a few ledges. It was<br />
pretty easy – just find a place to put it where I could see it and<br />
So, now to add some fish. I have been working on breeding<br />
some different livebearers for my BAP points and decided to<br />
throw in some red swordtails, lyretail black mollies, Ameca<br />
splendens and some corys that I hadn’t spawned yet. Well, I lost<br />
a pair of swords after the first night when they decided to jump<br />
out and I found them lying together the next day about 4 feet<br />
down slope form the pond tub. I added another pair to make a<br />
trio and crossed my fingers. To make a long story short there<br />
were no other fatalities for the summer. A friend gave me an old<br />
fountain pump which I added for some water circulation and<br />
aeration and pretty much let things be for the summer. I did<br />
feed every so often but the fish did well on the many insects<br />
that found their way into the pond. The plants did well and the<br />
cattails and iris bloomed for me. The lilies found it a bit shallow<br />
and didn’t do overly well but they did send out leaves that<br />
covered the pond here and there. The hornwort took off like a<br />
weed and I had to pull it out to allow room for the fish to find<br />
swimming space. I also added a nice plant a bit later – a dwarf<br />
papyrus, Cyperus papyrus peramentus. I grew this plant for my<br />
HAP (Horticulturist Award Program) and it did quite well. It is<br />
a nice bog plant that will grow in 0-6 inches of water and grows<br />
to about 24”. It blooms a non-descript flower but did more than<br />
double in size and I was able to split it up later in the season<br />
and share it with another hobbyist that enjoys her pond. She<br />
said she had room for it in the window over the winter as it is<br />
not perennial, but can be kept in a cool damp pot with only a<br />
little light. It was the other plants that made a positive<br />
contribution in the pond though. As mentioned the hornwort<br />
grew well and allowed places for the fry to hide. The fish also<br />
used the cattail and irises to hide in. They were in about 4-6<br />
inches of water and their tuberous roots gave space for water<br />
flow and hiding places. I did add some aquarium plants into<br />
the pond. I tried some Amazon swords, corkscrew val, a banana<br />
plant, and a lotus. I did not have great success with most of<br />
these. I did get growth, but I am thinking that we did not have<br />
enough sun on a regular basis last summer. <strong>May</strong>be where I had<br />
them they did not get enough daily sun, but other plants did<br />
fine. I guess I will need to try again and find out.<br />
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M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
disappointing as they were the fish I was hoping the most to<br />
have spawn. Oh well, there is always next time.<br />
Overall I did not work very hard at having to maintain this set<br />
up. I didn’t do water changes per se. When there was a heavy<br />
rain the insert would fill up and excess water would overflow. I<br />
did not feed the fish very often but did a few times a week with<br />
veggie or earthworm flakes. I did have to pull out patches of<br />
hair algae on a regular basis in the height of summer, but there<br />
was not a lot of maintenance required. The driftwood still did<br />
not completely sink but did add some shade and hiding places<br />
for the fish. The fry were rather popular for their colour at<br />
Oktoberfish and sold for $2 a piece in the auctions for 1.5 inch<br />
fish so I was quite happy. Not everything went completely as<br />
planned though for the summer. The insert is really designed to<br />
be dug into the ground and be a proper little pond. Keeping it<br />
as I was, I found that the plastic didn’t have enough support to<br />
keep its shape and it did sag and lose water. I had to rummage<br />
around in the garage and prop it up with various pieces of<br />
wood and plastic flower pots but it made it through the year.<br />
In the fall, I started netting out fish and brought them inside. I<br />
drained the tub and found the corys at the bottom and cleaned<br />
the insert up and put it away for the winter. I am planning on<br />
trying some fish outside again this summer, but what I am not<br />
sure yet. I just picked up a new rigid tub to play with. It is<br />
6’x4’x2’ and holds 340 gallons of water. If anyone had any ideas<br />
I’d like to hear them. I have thought about trying some Africans<br />
or I have been reading up on Anableps anableps, a livebearer that<br />
grows up to a foot long and has fry up to 2 inches long.<br />
I did end up with fry being produced and surviving. I left the<br />
pond running till after the first frost hit in early October and<br />
brought the fish into my tanks. I did not heat the new fish right<br />
away to acclimate them a bit over the first week as the outside<br />
water temps had dropped. Putting them directly into a heated<br />
tank would likely have killed many of them. The same thing<br />
can be said of the hornwort I tried to keep. Much of it died off<br />
when I brought it inside. Hornwort tends to drop leaves like a<br />
January Christmas tree when you change it’s environment too<br />
quickly. Be aware of that if you are buying hornwort at fall<br />
auctions for many people bring it in from their ponds and it<br />
may not survive or may carry unwanted hitchhikers along with<br />
it – parasites and critters that you don’t want to have in your<br />
tanks. Well, from the trio of swords I put in I pulled out well<br />
over 150 fry from several batches. It was fun watching their<br />
bright red colours in the pond and those that saw my pond<br />
were impressed at the colour of the fish and the size that the<br />
adults attained. I also ended up with several Amecas. They are<br />
goodieds so do not produce very many fry but I ended up with<br />
enough to qualify for BAP points. The adults ended up very<br />
colourful for the species and I kicked myself for not entering<br />
them into a few fall fish shows. I do not know why but the<br />
mollies did not spawn in the tub, or if they did I never saw any<br />
fry. I did not find any cory fry either. That was a bit<br />
So, if you are looking outside and wondering what you can do<br />
outside when the weather gets warmer you can still enjoy your<br />
fish in the sun while sipping on a cold beverage of choice. There<br />
are many choices that you can experiment with and I’m sure<br />
that it would make for an interesting article to share for others<br />
that want to try. - Ed<br />
...Continued from Page 16: PlantED Tank<br />
a thick and dense carpet of 2 inch thin leaves looking rather<br />
grass-like.<br />
Saggitaria subulata<br />
As promised to those that want a low light ground cover, I<br />
finish off with dwarf sag. This plant will look very similar to a<br />
val with some subtle differences. It normally only grows to a 3<br />
to 6 inch plant but if given high light and CO2, it can grow to<br />
12 inches which will not make it a favourite for the front of the<br />
aquarium. It has a good root structure and will establish itself<br />
in most substrates quite easily. It will spread by runners and<br />
will send new shoots in all kinds of places – rocks, wood, and<br />
through other ground covers. It may be the most versatile plant<br />
that you can use as a ground cover, but even though it will<br />
form tight groups of plants, it is too large and coarse to give a<br />
gentle sloping carpet of green effect in your tank. - PlantED<br />
18
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
FREE PARKING<br />
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SUITE<br />
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<strong>May</strong> 21-23, <strong>2010</strong><br />
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GUEST SPEAKERS<br />
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Ticket price includes the following at no extra charge<br />
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SPECIAL<br />
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Bring your fish, reptiles, amphibians, plants, crafts & photos to show<br />
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19
M A Y 2 0 1 0<br />
Come to our meetings. We love to have guests.<br />
KWAS meets on the 1st Tuesday of each month from September until June at the Adult Rec. Centre at 185 King St. South in<br />
<strong>Waterloo</strong> (corner of King and Allen). We meet on the second floor in the large multi-purpose room from 7:30 to 10 pm. Join Us!<br />
Guests are welcome any time.<br />
Bring your friends and show<br />
them what our club is all<br />
about!<br />
Meeting<br />
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20