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69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:28 AM Page 1<br />
1 <strong>2006</strong> spring<br />
news of norway<br />
geotourism –<br />
a pure escape<br />
page 4-7<br />
design<br />
page 8<br />
Volume 64
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:29 AM Page 2<br />
editor’s note<br />
<strong>Spring</strong> is the perfect time to plan your vacation. In this issue we make<br />
every effort to “tempt” you to make your way to the Norwegian fjords<br />
this summer. Maybe to one of many eco-friendly locations – more<br />
accurately: geotourism destinations – where the focus is on increasing<br />
tourism while preserving the environment, heritage, aesthetics, culture, and<br />
the well-being of its local residents (page 4-5).<br />
And for your children or grandchildren Why not consider a Norwegian<br />
language and culture camp (page 10). But if you can’t make it to <strong>Norway</strong><br />
this year, come travel with us anyway – in spirit – walking <strong>Norway</strong>'s western<br />
fjords (page 6-7).<br />
Another way to make the “trip” to <strong>Norway</strong> is by attending one of many<br />
cultural events taking place in the U.S. and Canada this year. A good<br />
place to start is at the theater: As we are entering the designated<br />
“Ibsen Year <strong>2006</strong>,” we focus on playwright Henrik Ibsen’s life and life’s work.<br />
Hundreds of plays, seminars, lectures, films, and festivals will honor Ibsen’s<br />
life – and hopefully make his life’s work more present for all of us.<br />
Among several highly anticipated productions this spring are Robert<br />
Wilson’s “Peer Gynt” at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) in April (page<br />
3), and Oscar-nominated actress Cate Blanchett’s performance as Hedda<br />
Gabler in March, also at BAM. Please see page 16 for a sampling of Ibsenplays<br />
and events in your area and www.norway.org/ibsen for a complete<br />
and updated listing.<br />
ARILD STRØMMEN | EDITOR<br />
Royal Norwegian Embassy<br />
2720 34th. St., NW<br />
Washington, D.C. 20008<br />
(202) 333-6000<br />
www.norway.org<br />
AMBASSADOR<br />
Knut Vollebæk<br />
HEAD OF PRESS AND CULTURE<br />
Erling Rimestad<br />
EDITOR<br />
Arild Strømmen<br />
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT<br />
Thor Englund<br />
SUBSCRIPTION<br />
News of <strong>Norway</strong> (ISSN: 0028-9272) is a<br />
quarterly publication of the Norwegian<br />
Embassy in Washington, D.C. The magazine<br />
was founded in 1941 and reaches 35,000<br />
subscribers in the U.S. and Canada. For a<br />
free subscription, write or call with your<br />
name and address, or send an email to<br />
subscription@norway.org.<br />
LETTERS TO THE EDITOR<br />
Write a letter mailed to the address above<br />
or send an email to editor@norway.org.<br />
Published letters may be edited for<br />
clarity and space.<br />
PHOTO COURTESY OF HENRIKBJORNSTAD.NO<br />
golf expedition technology jazz<br />
Norwegian golfer Henrik<br />
Bjørnstad surprised everyone<br />
with a very solid start of the U.S.<br />
PGA tour. The first Norwegian to<br />
qualify for the tour, his highlight<br />
so far was a 10th place in the<br />
tournament in La Jolla, Cali., in<br />
January, after leading for most of<br />
the final day. “I have played really<br />
well, and I was battling with<br />
the best almost all week... What<br />
more can you ask for only a few<br />
weeks into the new year”<br />
Bjørnstad wrote in his blog. He<br />
later got a 12th place in FBR<br />
Open in Scottsdale in February.<br />
2 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong><br />
PHOTO BY RUNE GJELDNES/SEAL.NO<br />
Rune Gjeldnes set a world record<br />
for the longest unsupported ski<br />
trek in history, in January, after a<br />
3,880 kilometer (2,425 mile) trek<br />
across the South Pole. He arrived<br />
at his goal by the Terra Nova Bay<br />
in February, after having skied<br />
for 90 days straight, covering atotal<br />
distance of 4,800 kilometers<br />
(3,000 miles) – longer than the<br />
distance from New York to<br />
Seattle. Gjeldnes used a kite to<br />
cover up to 180 kilometers (112<br />
miles) every day. Gjeldnes is one<br />
of very few explorers who have<br />
reached both poles unsupported.<br />
PHOTO BY OTTAR CATO OLSEN/THINK NORDIC<br />
We all know that water is essential<br />
for humans, but now cars can<br />
also benefit from a sip. A<br />
Norwegian company has created<br />
a car that only emits pure water.<br />
The new car Think Hydrogen<br />
made its debut on Norwegian<br />
roads in February. The company<br />
behind the innovation is Think<br />
Nordic AS, which is using a ”battery<br />
electrical fuel cell hybrid,”<br />
which combines the original elmotor<br />
engine with a hydrogen<br />
fuel cell that can recharge the battery.<br />
The final result of this technology:<br />
pure water vapor.<br />
PHOTO COURTESY OF KJETIL MØSTER<br />
Tenor saxophonist Kjetil Møster<br />
has been drawing lots of attention<br />
for his work with the Trondheim<br />
Jazz Orchestra. The 29-year-old<br />
horn man blew into New York<br />
and Washington, D.C., in January<br />
fronting a quartet with pianist<br />
Erlend Skomsvoll, bassist Steinar<br />
Raknes and drummer Håkon<br />
Mjåset Johansen. In New York,<br />
Møster received the <strong>2006</strong><br />
International Jazz Award for New<br />
Talent, awarded by the<br />
International Jazz Festivals<br />
Organization. The award recognizes<br />
a rising artist under 30.
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:29 AM Page 3<br />
Peer Gynt in Brooklyn<br />
Robert Wilson is the mastermind behind a new version of<br />
Peer Gynt, opening at the Brooklyn Academy of Music on<br />
April 11. His interpretation of Henrik Ibsen’s classic received<br />
rave reviews when playing in Oslo and Bergen.<br />
Wilson was invited to direct the Ibsen<br />
play at the Norwegian National<br />
Theatre in Oslo and the National<br />
Venue of Theatre (Nationale Scene) in<br />
Bergen. He has been an important figure in<br />
the international theater world since the late<br />
60s. He is also an architect and sculptor.<br />
Visual imagery is a central element in his<br />
works both on and offstage, and at the<br />
theater, his actors create innovative<br />
and original images through<br />
elaborate patterns of movements,<br />
adding to the depth and<br />
complexity of the play.<br />
“What makes the play<br />
interesting is that the text has<br />
so many dimensions and is full<br />
of time, either its past, present, or<br />
future,” the director said. The play<br />
was a great success when playing in<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>, and is now making its way across the<br />
Atlantic to be performed at the Brooklyn<br />
Academy of Music (BAM) in April.<br />
Although the play draws heavily on<br />
Norwegian culture and nature, Wilson has no<br />
doubt that the play is relevant for people<br />
from elsewhere. “The local elements in the<br />
play, which Ibsen perhaps thought were hard<br />
for people from other places to understand,<br />
can in fact make the play even more understandable<br />
and relevant to others,” Wilson said.<br />
“Peer Gynt is so multi-dimensional that<br />
people in all cultures can relate to the text. In<br />
different countries you can easily replace the<br />
typical Norwegian folkloristic elements with<br />
imagery that is more familiar. The local element<br />
is what makes the play international in<br />
nature, and Peer Gynt a clear international<br />
appeal,” he said.<br />
For actors, collaborating with Wilson is a<br />
unique experience from what they are familiar<br />
with. In contrast to most theater productions,<br />
preparations for Peer Gynt did not start<br />
with reading, but rather with choreographing<br />
the actors’ movements<br />
across the stage. Wilson introduces<br />
the text only after actors<br />
have practiced the movements<br />
for weeks. “In this formalistic<br />
theater, we try to open a mental<br />
landscape by expressing<br />
energy through body movement,”<br />
Wilson said.<br />
“We try out different patterns of<br />
movement without thinking about what scene<br />
to play. It's only later in the process that we<br />
connect these movements with the text to see<br />
if the two fit together. If they do, the two different<br />
ways of expression create a whole that<br />
is much more powerful than in a play where<br />
the movements just illustrate the text – which<br />
is dreadfully boring. My body language might<br />
be closer to that of an animal, where the mind<br />
is more of a muscle. Animals don’t just listen<br />
with their ears, they listen with their entire<br />
bodies.”<br />
– THOR ENGLUND<br />
wilson’s peer gynt<br />
Directed by Robert Wilson<br />
(above), Music by Michael<br />
Galass. Co-production of the<br />
National Venue of Theatre in<br />
Bergen and The Norwegian<br />
Theatre of Oslo.<br />
ibsen<br />
Where: Brooklyn Academy of<br />
Music (BAM)<br />
When: April 11-16, <strong>2006</strong><br />
Tickets: 718.636.4100 ($25-30)<br />
www.bam.org<br />
PHOTOS BY DEN NATIONALE SCENE/LESLEY LESLIE-SPINKS<br />
www.norway.org/ibsen | 3
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:30 AM Page 4<br />
“<br />
“<br />
geotourism – a pure escape<br />
BY ARILD STRØMMEN<br />
Geography dealt the Norwegian coastline a good hand when it<br />
comes to remaining unspoiled. Rugged terrain, cool, wet climate,<br />
difficult access, and a short tourist season keep development<br />
pressures comparatively low. It helps, too, to be in a sparsely populated<br />
country with one of the world’s best environmental track<br />
records,” Director of National Geographic’s Center for Sustainable<br />
Destinations, Jonathan Tourtellot, said,<br />
when the Norwegian fjords were rated<br />
best out of 115 travel destinations worldwide.<br />
“It’s no surprise that <strong>Norway</strong>’s<br />
fjords lead the top-scoring destinations,<br />
thanks to a combination of luck and wise<br />
stewardship,” he said.<br />
As part of a push to promote sustainable<br />
tourism – preserving environment,<br />
heritage, and local culture – <strong>Norway</strong><br />
became the second nation (following<br />
Honduras) to sign the National<br />
Geographic Geotourism Charter. Gunn Ovesen, CEO of <strong>Norway</strong>’s<br />
tourism and business development agency, Innovation <strong>Norway</strong>, cosigned<br />
the charter with Tourtellot. Geotourism is defined as tourism that<br />
sustains or enhances the geographical character of a place – its environment,<br />
culture, aesthetics, heritage, and the well-being of its residents.<br />
“The signing of the charter demonstrates that <strong>Norway</strong> is committed<br />
to being a leading geotourism travel destination,” Tourtellot said.<br />
Geotourism is a principle that countries and destinations work by, it is<br />
not a fancy logo or an empty buzzword. Among several examples of<br />
Geotourism: tourism that sustains<br />
or enhances the geographical character<br />
of a place – its environment,<br />
heritage, aesthetics, culture, and<br />
the well-being of its residents<br />
geotourism-type programs already undertaken in <strong>Norway</strong> are an officially<br />
designated national scenic road and <strong>Norway</strong>’s initiative to promote<br />
traditional farm foods and local products and raw materials.<br />
Queen Sonja met with president and CEO of National Geographic<br />
Society, John M. Fahey, in a ceremony to celebrate the charter last fall.<br />
The Queen, who relishes outdoor activities, also made a presentation at<br />
the Smithsonian Institution in<br />
Washington, D.C.<br />
She showed her own pictures from<br />
her trips hiking the Norwegian mountains<br />
and fjords. “I’m not a professional<br />
photographer,” she said, “but I try to<br />
capture what is special about our country,<br />
and I love to share it. It’s great if my<br />
presentation makes people want to go<br />
to <strong>Norway</strong>,” Queen Sonja said, following<br />
the speech.<br />
With a high number of Norwegian-<br />
Americans and with a population concerned with eco-friendly tourism,<br />
the U.S. is an important market for Norwegian tour operators and destinations.<br />
“Americans are very attractive tourists,” Innovation <strong>Norway</strong>’s<br />
Director of Tourism–Americas, Arne Hjeltnes, said. “It takes 3.4<br />
Germans to create as much revenue for the Norwegian tourism industry<br />
as one American tourist. Americans don’t complain much, and have<br />
good things to say about <strong>Norway</strong> when they return home.” This spring,<br />
Hjeltnes is launching several campaigns to entice more Americans to<br />
vacation in <strong>Norway</strong>, including opportunities within geotourism.<br />
4 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong>
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:31 AM Page 5<br />
more<br />
travel<br />
• Travel Portals:<br />
www.norway.org/travel<br />
www.visitnorway.com/us<br />
www.norway.com<br />
PHOTO COURTESY OF INNOVATION NORWAY<br />
After <strong>Norway</strong> became the second nation in the world to sign the<br />
National Geographic Geotourism Charter last fall, Queen<br />
Sonja met with president and CEO of the National Geographic<br />
Society, John M. Fahey to mark the occasion. The Queen also<br />
made a presentation about hiking in Norwegian mountains and<br />
fjords, complete with a slide show of her own pictures from<br />
these trips, at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.<br />
PHOTO BY MARK THIESSEN/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY<br />
• Destinations:<br />
Oslo: www.visitoslo.com<br />
Bergen: www.visitbergen.com<br />
Trondheim: www.trondheim.no<br />
Ålesund: www.visitalesund.com<br />
Stavanger: www.regionstavanger.com<br />
Tromsø: www.destinasjontromso.no<br />
Fjord region: www.fjordnorway.com<br />
Hardanger: www.hardangerfjord.com<br />
Flåm region and Flåm Railway:<br />
www.visitflam.com<br />
Finnmark/North Cape:<br />
www.visitnorthcape.com<br />
Lofoten Islands:<br />
www.lofoten.info<br />
• Tour operators<br />
www.coastalvoyage.com<br />
www.globusjourneys.com<br />
www.nordicco.com<br />
www.countrywalkers.com<br />
www.bortonoverseas.com<br />
www.norwaynutshell.com<br />
To receive tourist brochures about<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> in the mail, please contact:<br />
Innovation <strong>Norway</strong> — Tourism<br />
655 Third Avenue, Suite 1810<br />
New York, N.Y. 10017<br />
Phone: 212.885.9700<br />
E-mail: usa@invanor.no<br />
Two Norwegian fjords, Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord (at right), were added to<br />
UNESCO’S “World Heritage List” in 2005. Already on the list were five cultural attractions:<br />
Bryggen (the old Hanseatic wharf in Bergen), the 12th century Urnes stave<br />
church, the petroglyphs at Alta, the old mining town of Røros, and the Vegan<br />
Archipelago.<br />
National Geographic Traveler Magazine put the Norwegian fjords at the top of its<br />
list of the 115 greatest unspoiled travel spots in the world. The experts on the selection<br />
panel were asked to evaluate places they knew personally, using six criteria to<br />
assess the destinations: ecological and environmental quality, social and cultural<br />
integrity, the quality of historical buildings and archaeological sites, aesthetic attractiveness,<br />
quality in tourism management, and future prospects. Around the same time,<br />
Chicago Tribune included <strong>Norway</strong>’s fjords on its list of “Seven Wonders of Nature.”<br />
The Lofoten Islands in Northern <strong>Norway</strong> have been listed among the world’s top 20<br />
paradise islands by British newspaper The Observer, which wrote: “The main tourist<br />
islands, Austvågøy, Vestvågøy, Flakstad, and Moskenes, appeal to writers and artists as<br />
well as outdoor enthusiasts, with climbing, hiking, riding, canoeing, biking, rafting and<br />
fishing highly popular. Puffins, cormorants, guillemots, eagles and seals bring in the<br />
wildlife watchers.”<br />
This year, the Lonely Planet travel guide named the Norwegian Coastal Voyage,<br />
known as Hurtigruten (at right), as the most beautiful voyage by ship in the world.<br />
Passengers enjoy a panoramic view of the Norwegian fjords and may experience the<br />
midnight sun during the northernmost stretch of the journey. The journey lasts 11 days,<br />
beginning in the west coast city of Bergen and ending at Kirkenes in the far north.<br />
Along the way the ships make 34 stops. Passengers may board for parts of the journey.<br />
PHOTO BY TERJE RAKKE/INNOVATION NORWAY<br />
PHOTO BY HARALD VALDERHAUG/HURTIGRUTEN<br />
www.norway.org/travel | 5
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:32 AM Page 6<br />
walking<br />
norway’s<br />
western<br />
fjords<br />
my foot just wanted to go. The stones meander<br />
in a sort of staircase – as indeed that is what<br />
they are – designed by 12th century Cistercian<br />
monks to traverse a steep portion of the 3,000-<br />
foot climb between their monastery on the<br />
banks of Sørfjorden and the plateau high<br />
above. Hundreds of stones, hundreds of steps,<br />
616 to be exact. Did the monks organize themselves<br />
into a sort of ecclesiastical chain gang<br />
and quickly put them in place Or, perhaps, it<br />
was the duty of every monk heading up from<br />
Sørfjorden to hoist an additional stone until it<br />
was eventually done. Thoughts to ponder<br />
while catching one’s breath.<br />
Not only the Cistercians’ feet wore the<br />
stones smooth, although they had 327 years to<br />
do so. Fishermen, hunters and trekkers have<br />
used the steps as a route into the<br />
Hardangervidda Plateau, now <strong>Norway</strong>’s<br />
largest national park, for hundreds of years.<br />
Our boots were but the latest in the centuriesold<br />
parade.<br />
With 12 others, I was traipsing through<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>'s lacey network of western fjords on<br />
an itinerary as much devoted to understanding<br />
the culture of the country as to a leg-stretching<br />
adventure. With guides Vidar Rasmusen and<br />
Arjen Meurs leading the way, it was day five<br />
of our seven-day trek when we reached the<br />
misy plateau to spread our picnic by the edge<br />
of a rushing stream. Folly to jump in, even if it<br />
had been a rare day of Norwegian warmth; the<br />
rush of water feeds into the aptly-named<br />
Skrikjo¸ which translates to “Shriek,” a waterfall<br />
that, were it not divided by a rock interference,<br />
would be the highest in the world.<br />
Skrikjo helps irrigate the orchards of<br />
Hardanger, <strong>Norway</strong>’s fruit basket, that stretch<br />
6 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong><br />
BY YVONNE HORN<br />
he stones were rough, some much larger<br />
than others, some a bit of a leg stretch from<br />
Tthe next. But each had a worn spot where<br />
for miles along Sørfjorden. Our stream-side<br />
picnic included Hardanger cherries grown<br />
plump and sweet in the long days of the farnorthern<br />
summer. The monks not only lugged<br />
about stones but planted Sørfjorden’s first<br />
orchards.<br />
“<strong>Norway</strong>: Bergen and the Western Fjords,”<br />
is a recent addition to the dozens of treks<br />
offered by Country Walkers, a Vermont-based<br />
company with the motto: “Explore the world<br />
one step at a time.” On this trip, our first steps<br />
took us through Bergen’s historic center, a designated<br />
UNESCO heritage site beside the<br />
city’s inner harbor, Vågen, the heart of Bergen<br />
since its beginnings. Following a city guide we<br />
visited sites that the German Hanseatic merchants,<br />
who made Bergen one of Europe’s<br />
great entrepots during the 15th century, would<br />
easily recognize: the fortress of Bergenhus<br />
with its burly Rosencrantz tower; the pointed<br />
gables of Bryggen, the Hanseatic’s surviving<br />
offices and warehouses and the incomparable<br />
natural setting – facing the sea, back cradled in<br />
the arms of seven mountains.<br />
Each first Sunday in June, thousands of<br />
locals take to the hills with the goal of reaching<br />
every summit in a single day. We took on<br />
but one, and – feeling a bit guilty about abandoning<br />
so soon “one<br />
step at a time” – that<br />
aboard Fløybanen, the<br />
funicular that whisks<br />
passengers to the top<br />
of Mount Fløyen for a<br />
bird’s eye view of the<br />
city and its surrounding<br />
fjords with the silvery<br />
shimmer of the<br />
Norwegian Sea beyond.<br />
Our city walk was<br />
but a warm-up for the<br />
next day’s trek into<br />
the Bergen Norwegian<br />
Arboretum<br />
incorporated into 125<br />
acres of rocky gorges<br />
and mossy hills along<br />
the Fanafjord. Following a picnic lunch, Vidar<br />
and Arjen changed into their Speedos to dive<br />
into the fjord. “When you see the sea, you have<br />
to jump in!” Vidar jubilantly explained as he<br />
dried off from what is evidently not just a<br />
Norwegian thing to do as Arjen, a Hollander,<br />
expressed equal enthusiasm for his icy laps.<br />
It is the rare Norwegian, from commoner to<br />
king, who doesn’t relish their unspoiled countryside.<br />
The right to do so is ensured by the<br />
PHOTOS COURTESY OF INNOVATION NORWAY/ WWW.VISITBERGEN.COM/WWW.SOLSTRAND.COM
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:33 AM Page 7<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE:<br />
1. Lake Loen<br />
2. Hiking by Bøyabreen Glacier<br />
travel<br />
PHOTOS COURTESY OF INNOVATION NORWAY/ WWW.VISITBERGEN.COM/WWW.SOLSTRAND.COM<br />
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM<br />
TOP LEFT:<br />
1. Solstrand Hotel.<br />
2. Hiking in the hills overlooking Bergen.<br />
3. Kayaking in Loen.<br />
4. Bryggen (The Wharf) in Bergen<br />
1957 “Lov om friluftslivet” (Outdoor<br />
Recreations Act): “At any time of the year,<br />
outlying property may be crossed on foot,<br />
with consideration and due caution.”<br />
Shouldering their rucksacks, they stay in a<br />
cabin or lodge – hytte – located at the crossroads<br />
of the country’s extensive network of<br />
trails.<br />
With “consideration and due caution” we<br />
approached, not cabins but two luxurious<br />
country hotels for our overnight stays. Our<br />
first, Hotel Solstrand, has welcomed vacationers<br />
for more than 100 years at its idyllic location<br />
overlooking Bjørnafjorden. Borrea<br />
Schau-Larsen, the third-generation proprietor<br />
of the family-owned hotel, greeted us saying<br />
that not only does she, too, enjoy a good walk<br />
but also shares Arjen’s and Vidar’s zeal for<br />
leaping into the fjord, which she does every<br />
Wednesday with friends: “Blowing and snowing,<br />
no matter. We jump in. And it is good!”<br />
Hotel Ullensvang, owned by the Utne family<br />
since its founding in 1846, was the base<br />
the second half of our trip. Located in the village<br />
of Lofthus on land claiming a long<br />
stretch of Sørfjorden’s eastern shore, it was<br />
here that the 19th-century composer Edvard<br />
Grieg found inspiration for many of his compositions.<br />
His “composing cottage,” selfdescribed<br />
as “no more than a wooden box<br />
with a piano and a stove” remains in the<br />
hotel’s garden. One evening after dinner, we<br />
walked through the stillness of the village to<br />
Lofthus’ 12th-century stone church for an<br />
organ and piano concert featuring works by<br />
Grieg.<br />
Grieg traveled the Hardanger by foot and<br />
horse with internationally acclaimed violinist<br />
Ole Bull – ”the Nordic Paganini” – the two<br />
finding themes for their music in the region’s<br />
centuries-old melodies and traditions. A short<br />
ferry ride delivered us to Ole Bull’s Lysøen<br />
island, where we walked the 13 miles of trails<br />
that wind their way through fjords and fauna<br />
to end up at his idiosyncratic house, an architectural<br />
gem that marries Moorish flavor with<br />
Norwegian simplicity.<br />
One day’s walk followed a fjord-side path<br />
One step at a time we<br />
had plunged deep into<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>’s spectacular<br />
beauty and cultural soul.<br />
to the village of Os to visit the boat works<br />
where the light, flexible, fast and strong<br />
“Oselvar” boats used along the Norwegian<br />
coast for nearly 2,000 years continue to be<br />
crafted. Another day’s trek included a visit to<br />
a 12th-century “stave” church. Only 29 of the<br />
original 750 ornately carved structures survive,<br />
and they are among the world’s oldest<br />
wooden buildings. Before dinner one night at<br />
Hotel Solstrand, Jan Boettcher, an acclaimed<br />
rosemaling or “rose painting” artist shared<br />
examples of the artistry with which<br />
Norwegians have decorated their furniture<br />
and implements since medieval times. “I<br />
learned from my grandfather who learned<br />
from his father who learned from his father,”<br />
she said, adding that only recently have<br />
women participated in the rosemaling tradition.<br />
Kjersti Bondhus greeted us at Ola Løo, a<br />
traditional farmhouse where a lunch of perfectly<br />
poached salmon freshly pulled from the<br />
sea, boiled potatoes just emerged from the<br />
earth, and a salad of greens harvested from the<br />
farm garden awaited – fuel for a walk into the<br />
Bondhus Valley, following the cascading<br />
rockiness of the rushing Bondhus River to the<br />
mirror reflections of Bondhus Lake with the<br />
blue and green ice of Bondhus Glacier streaming<br />
out of the mountain ahead. All indications<br />
that Bondhus is far from a new name on the<br />
edge of Maurangsfjorden.<br />
Reaching the lake, we were given the<br />
option of being rowed across by Arjen or continuing<br />
on toward the glacier via the lakeside<br />
path with Vidar. Yet another example, as with<br />
every day’s walk, of options made available<br />
for varying levels of hiking endurance and<br />
expertise.<br />
Had it been May 17 instead of mid-<br />
August, Bondhus Glacier, an arm of the<br />
famed Folgefonn, would have been dotted<br />
with skiers in national costume annually celebrating<br />
their country’s frozen landscape with<br />
a day devoted to skiing across the ice flows.<br />
Risky business, it would seem, given the cautionary<br />
signs we encountered warning of the<br />
glacier’s deep and wide crevasses hidden<br />
under covers of snow.<br />
Our trip ended where it began, in Bergen.<br />
Looking at the map, our boots had not taken<br />
us far from the “Gateway to the Western<br />
Fjords,” as the city calls itself. Yet, one step at<br />
a time, following Arjen and Vidar, we had<br />
plunged deep into <strong>Norway</strong>’s spectacular beauty<br />
and cultural soul.<br />
www.norway.org/travel | 7
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OLEANA, STOKKE,<br />
AND AUTOSOCK<br />
are winners of the<br />
Norwegian Award<br />
for Design<br />
Excellence — for<br />
their aesthetic<br />
and functional<br />
products<br />
AWARD FOR DESIGN EXCE<br />
OLEANA<br />
Traditional Norwegian arts and crafts<br />
often inspire modern design. This is<br />
particularly the case at Oleana, a<br />
fashion design firm based just outside of<br />
Bergen.<br />
“Our clothes are inspired by<br />
Norwegian culture and traditional<br />
costumes, as well as<br />
by modern trends,”<br />
Oleana’s chief designer,<br />
Solveig Hisdal, said. “We<br />
don’t copy the traditional<br />
outfits, but rather draw inspiration<br />
from them.” Hisdal is<br />
considered one of the premier<br />
textile designers in <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
Oleana’s designs combine cultural<br />
heritage with contemporary use of<br />
textiles. As an example, the Rosendal<br />
knitwear collection, (featured at a design<br />
exhibit during the annual festival,<br />
Norwegian Christmas at Union Station, in<br />
Washington, D.C.), incorporated patterns<br />
and colors found in the porcelain,<br />
design, and rose garden at the renaissance<br />
barony of Rosendal on the<br />
west coast of <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
“<strong>Norway</strong> has a very rich<br />
clothing tradition,” Hisdal<br />
said. “Many Norwegians<br />
travelled abroad and<br />
brought new fabrics and<br />
ideas back home with<br />
them, creating a very<br />
diverse and colorful range of<br />
traditional outfits.”<br />
Oleana clothes are designed<br />
and produced in <strong>Norway</strong> combining<br />
traditional handcraft and modern<br />
technology, and about half of the production<br />
is exported, among other places<br />
to the U.S. and Canada.<br />
8 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong>
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:34 AM Page 9<br />
BY THOR ENGLUND<br />
ELLENCE<br />
AUTOSOCK<br />
The idea of Autosock was born when<br />
the inventor Bård Løtveit remembered<br />
how his grandmother used to<br />
don woolen socks over her shoes to get<br />
more friction when she was walking on<br />
ice. Autosock applies<br />
the same principle to<br />
cars: By wrapping tires<br />
“<br />
in fiber covers they get<br />
a significantly better<br />
grip on icy or slippery<br />
roads. With the<br />
extreme conditions<br />
drivers might<br />
encounter in <strong>Norway</strong>, it<br />
is no surprise that<br />
Autosock received<br />
instant popularity when<br />
launched in 2001, and<br />
400,000 units have<br />
been sold to date.<br />
Design-wise, creating<br />
a product that was<br />
functional but also<br />
aesthetically pleasing<br />
and easily recognizable<br />
was a priority from<br />
the start.<br />
“From a design<br />
point of view, we wanted<br />
Autosock to be<br />
extremely easy to use,”<br />
said Einar Hareide,<br />
founder of Hareide Design Mill, an industrial<br />
design firm based in Moss, <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
“One of the ways we did that was by<br />
creating a user’s manual looking very<br />
much like what you see on emergency<br />
exits in planes, with easy-to-understand<br />
stick figures performing the tasks, giving<br />
the product a clear graphical identity.”<br />
A former chief designer at SAAB in<br />
Sweden, Einar Hareide is one of the most<br />
internationally recognized Norwegian<br />
industrial designers today.<br />
“Design is always about function and<br />
aesthetics, and striking a balance<br />
between the two is our<br />
My grandmother<br />
used to don woolen<br />
socks over her shoes<br />
to get more friction<br />
when she was walking<br />
on ice. Autosock<br />
applies the same<br />
principle to cars.<br />
”<br />
Bård Løtveit, inventor<br />
design<br />
main challenge,”<br />
Hareide said.<br />
“A lot of things are<br />
going on in<br />
Norwegian design<br />
today,” he said.<br />
“If you only pay<br />
attention to the<br />
media, though, it<br />
seems as the only<br />
thing we make is furniture<br />
and decorative<br />
ornaments. However,<br />
Norwegian industry is<br />
increasingly trying to<br />
gain a competitive<br />
advantage through<br />
the use of clever and<br />
aesthetic industrial<br />
design. One example<br />
is in the ship-building<br />
industry, where the<br />
bridge is increasingly<br />
made to feel like the<br />
driver’s cabin of a car,<br />
giving an increased<br />
sense of control for<br />
the staff onboard.”<br />
Autosock has already won several<br />
design awards all over the world, most<br />
notably the International Grand Prix for<br />
Technical Innovation from the<br />
Association of European Technical<br />
Journalists, as well as the Award for<br />
Design Excellence from the Norwegian<br />
Design Council.<br />
STOKKE Xplory<br />
Stokke Xplory is a new breed of<br />
strollers, in which the needs of the<br />
child, and not only the needs of the<br />
person strolling, are equally important. It is<br />
built by furniture manufacturer Stokke in<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>, but designed by several young,<br />
new and promising Norwegian designers.<br />
“The Xplory Stroller was designed with<br />
two main ideas in mind,” industrial<br />
designer with Stokke, Hilde Angelfoss,<br />
said. “We wanted a stroller that encouraged<br />
contact and interaction with the<br />
child in the seat, and also a stroller that<br />
protects the child from exhaust fumes,<br />
mud, and all other risks involved with<br />
strolling a child in an urban area.”<br />
To achieve this, the Xplory is designed<br />
to raise the child up higher than most<br />
strollers, giving the child a better view and<br />
protecting him or her better from the elements<br />
and from car exhaust.<br />
“Our research showed that the child is<br />
happier and less impatient if lifted up to<br />
a level where it can actually see the<br />
things around it,” Angelfoss said.<br />
The seat can also be turned 180<br />
degrees, so the child and parent can<br />
interact more directly.<br />
“It is not a stroller for joggers, we saw<br />
that people with children in urban areas<br />
often have very different needs than<br />
what the “sports strollers” can provide,”<br />
Angelfoss said. “So we designed it to<br />
enable a child to sit in the stroller at a<br />
table in a café or restaurant too, which<br />
most strollers won’t allow.”<br />
“Norwegian design is very much<br />
focused on being practical and userfriendly,<br />
but also aesthetic,” Angelfoss<br />
said.<br />
“But we need to be better at marketing<br />
ourselves abroad.”<br />
more<br />
• For a list of distributors of<br />
Oleana clothing, please visit:<br />
www.oleana.no<br />
207.363.9156<br />
• To find retailers of Stokke<br />
Xplory in the U.S. or Canada,<br />
please visit:<br />
www.stokkeusa.com<br />
877.978.6553<br />
• Autosock is currently not<br />
available in North America<br />
www.autosock.com<br />
• Norwegian Design Council<br />
www.norskdesign.no/english<br />
www.norway.org | 9
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education<br />
Language<br />
Camps<br />
The Norse Federation has offered its<br />
Norgesskolen programs in <strong>Norway</strong><br />
since 2003, and every year the program<br />
attracts more youth from all over the world to<br />
Tomb Agricultural School, located just south<br />
of Oslo. In 2005, 57 students participated in<br />
activities such as 17. mai and Christmas celebrations,<br />
classes in Norwegian language, history<br />
and society, excursions, and outdoor fun,<br />
as well as taking care of the animals at the<br />
farm where the school is located.<br />
Priya Kvam went to Norgesskolen for the<br />
first time last summer. The 15 year-old has a<br />
Norwegian father and an Indian mother, but<br />
Now is the time to sign up for Norwegian summer programs.<br />
Immersion courses in language and culture await for young<br />
children as young as 7 to high school students.<br />
has never lived in <strong>Norway</strong>. She appreciated<br />
that most of the other Norgesskolen students<br />
had a similar multicultural background.<br />
“Outside of classes, people spoke all kinds<br />
of different languages: English, Spanish,<br />
Arabic, but classes were all conducted in<br />
Norwegian. I think there was only one person<br />
who was actually from <strong>Norway</strong>.”<br />
The summer school’s theme was modern<br />
Norwegian history, and Norwegian independence<br />
from Sweden. “We had a very full schedule,<br />
starting at 7:30 in the morning. Obviously<br />
we learned about the language, the culture,<br />
writing in Norwegian, gave oral reports and<br />
saw Norwegian movies. We went on field<br />
trips, visiting farms, Oslo, and a lumbermill.<br />
We also celebrated all the Norwegian festivities,<br />
like May 17 and Jul. We were even on<br />
Norwegian TV.”<br />
At the Norwegian village “Skogfjorden” at<br />
Concordia Language Villages in Minnesota,<br />
youth from across the U.S. have had the<br />
opportunity to spend a summer in a<br />
Norwegian setting since 1969. Now, for the<br />
first time, the school offers programs in<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> as well: Credits Abroad offers high<br />
school students the opportunity to spend a<br />
month in <strong>Norway</strong>, enjoying a fun learning<br />
experience while at the same time earning language<br />
credits for school. “The Credit Abroad<br />
in <strong>Norway</strong> is a continuation of what we are<br />
doing at Skogfjorden,” the dean of<br />
Skogfjorden, Tove Dahl said. “While the students<br />
can learn a lot about <strong>Norway</strong> in<br />
Minnesota, actually going to <strong>Norway</strong> will<br />
give them a taste of the real thing.”<br />
While potential Credits Abroad students<br />
are required to have Norwegian language proficiency<br />
comparable to two years of high<br />
school studies to enter the program, everyday<br />
smalltalk in the unique Sogndal dialect will<br />
surely add extra flavor to the skills of even the<br />
most fluent students.<br />
“You learn the Norwegian language, you<br />
learn the culture, you meet a lot of new people.<br />
It’s a pretty good way to spend a vacation,”<br />
Priya Kvam said.<br />
– LINDA PRESTEGÅRD<br />
Norgesskolen<br />
Age: 9 to 18 years<br />
Location: Tomb Agricultural<br />
School, south of Oslo<br />
Duration: 3 weeks<br />
When: July 9 to 28<br />
Focus: Norwegian language<br />
and culture<br />
Phone: (+47) 23 35 71 70<br />
www.norgesskolen.no<br />
At the Norwegian village “Skogfjorden” at Concordia Language<br />
Villages in Minnesota, youth from across the U.S. have had the<br />
opportunity to spend a summer in a Norwegian setting since 1969<br />
Concordia Language Villages<br />
Age: 7 to 18 years<br />
Location: Oslo and Sogndal,<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>, and “Skogfjorden,” in<br />
Minnesota<br />
Duration: One-week exploratory,<br />
two-week immersion, or fourweek<br />
high school credit sessions<br />
When: Start in June or July<br />
Focus: Norwegian language<br />
and culture<br />
Phone: (800) 222-4750, ext. 312<br />
www.concordialanguagevillages.org<br />
10 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong>
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:35 AM Page 11<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> pumps three million barrels of<br />
oil from the North Sea daily, and is<br />
now the world’s third largest exporter<br />
of oil, after Saudi Arabia and Russia. But how<br />
to save this wealth for future generations The<br />
answer: Funneling the revenues into The<br />
Norwegian Government Pension Fund.<br />
Currently the fund receives attention not<br />
only because it is one of the largest retirement<br />
funds in the world, but also due to its newly<br />
implemented ethical investment guidelines.<br />
Tore Mydske, representing the<br />
Norwegian Ministry of Finance,<br />
which is responsible for the fund,<br />
answers the ethical questions:<br />
WHY DOES THE GOVERN-<br />
MENT PENSION FUND<br />
HAVE A STRONG ETHICAL<br />
PROFILE The ethical guidelines<br />
were adopted by the<br />
Norwegian Parliament in 2004,<br />
and are based on two premises.<br />
First, the fund is an instrument<br />
for ensuring that a reasonable<br />
portion of the country’s petroleum<br />
wealth should benefit future<br />
generations. So it needs to be<br />
managed with focus on generating<br />
a sound return in the long<br />
term. Second, the fund should<br />
not through its investments contribute<br />
to unethical acts, such as<br />
violations of fundamental<br />
humanitarian principles, serious violations of<br />
human rights, gross corruption, or severe<br />
environmental degradation.<br />
HOW ARE THESE ETHICAL CONSID-<br />
ERATIONS OBSERVED The ethical basis<br />
for the fund is promoted through three different<br />
measures. First, it is done through exercising<br />
ownership rights in order to promote longterm<br />
financial returns. This is done by Norges<br />
Bank (the Norwegian Central Bank).<br />
Corporate governance is a keyword here, and<br />
the bank exercises its ownership rights and<br />
voting power, for instance by fighting corruption<br />
or poor leadership within a company.<br />
Secondly, it is done through negative<br />
screening – selling the shares in companies<br />
that produce weapons which may violate<br />
humanitarian principles. The focus here is on<br />
the products the company makes, not on how<br />
the company is run.<br />
Thirdly, it can be done through exclusion<br />
of companies where there may be a risk of<br />
contributing to serious or systematic human<br />
rights violations, severe environmental degradation,<br />
gross corruption, or other particularly<br />
serious violations of fundamental ethical<br />
norms. The decision to sell shares in a company<br />
based on negative screening or exclusion<br />
is made by the Ministry of Finance.<br />
WHO DECIDES WHAT IS ETHICAL OR<br />
NOT The ethical framework is anchored in<br />
the guidelines adopted by the Norwegian<br />
Parliament – with broad political support. The<br />
Ministry of Finance commissioned a Council<br />
of Ethics to screen the companies the fund is<br />
invested in. The council evaluates whether<br />
investing in certain companies is consistent<br />
with the Parliament’s ethical guidelines. The<br />
council gives its advice to the Ministry of<br />
Finance, which makes the final decision on<br />
whether to sell or not. If deciding to sell, the<br />
stocks are sold off quietly in order to not<br />
influence the value of the company, and the<br />
Finance Ministry’s decision is made public<br />
only after all stocks are sold.<br />
HOW MANY COMPANIES HAVE BEEN<br />
EXCLUDED TO DATE AND WHY<br />
17 firms from around the world have been<br />
excluded from the fund. Most of these are<br />
involved in production of nuclear weapons or<br />
key components for cluster bombs.<br />
ARE ETHICAL CONSIDERATIONS<br />
MORE IMPORTANT THAN PROFIT<br />
Often there is no conflict between the two. In<br />
terms of corruption, for instance, it is neither<br />
ethically nor economically sound to invest in<br />
a corrupt company.<br />
WHERE IS THE FUND INVESTED To<br />
put it simply, the net is cast as widely as possible.<br />
We are not interested in risky stocks<br />
with short-term gains. This fund is for our<br />
children, and for our children’s children, and<br />
therefore it is important that we have as low<br />
risk as possible. We do this by investing comparatively<br />
small sums in a broad array of companies.<br />
This way we follow the larger tendencies<br />
in the stock market. A little over half of<br />
the fund is invested in bonds and equities in<br />
Europe. The rest is spread out over America,<br />
Asia, Australia and New Zealand, and South<br />
Africa. The fund can hold a maximum of 3<br />
percent of the shares in any company.<br />
interview<br />
HOW TO INVEST $200 BILLION ... ETHICALLY<br />
PHOTO BY ARILD STRØMMEN<br />
Tore Mydske, Counselor for Economic and Financial Affairs at the<br />
Royal Norwegian Embassy in Washington, D.C.. The Heidrun platform<br />
in the North Sea in the background.<br />
WHY ISN’T THE OIL MONEY JUST<br />
INVESTED IN NORWAY, SOLVING ALL<br />
SOCIAL PROBLEMS We want to avoid<br />
what is called the Dutch Disease: Historically,<br />
nations which have suddenly become very<br />
wealthy – particularly from natural resources<br />
– have only rarely been able to manage the<br />
wealth wisely. This has happened time and<br />
time again in the history of the world, and it is<br />
therefore absolutely vital for us not to become<br />
dependent on – or even addicted to – the<br />
wealth the oil has given us.<br />
In the short term, pouring oil<br />
money into the Norwegian economy<br />
would result in overheating<br />
the economy, an inflation spiraling<br />
out of control and a large<br />
portion of Norwegian industry –<br />
the very basis of our current and<br />
future economy – would be<br />
forced to shut down or outsource.<br />
We also need the money<br />
to cover our social security costs<br />
in the future. As with most other<br />
industrialized countries, we are<br />
facing an aging population and<br />
vastly increasing costs of pensions.<br />
Still, the oil fund will only<br />
cover a third of these expenses in<br />
the future, so we need to keep the<br />
Norwegian economy healthy.<br />
Some oil revenue is already<br />
being used today, though.<br />
According to a self-imposed<br />
“fiscal rule,” the government can use the real<br />
return of the oil fund to cover the “non-oil”<br />
deficit in the national budget. This real return<br />
is stipulated to be 4 percent of the total value<br />
of the fund. Still, it is vital that we show temperance<br />
and not use too much.<br />
more<br />
– THOR ENGLUND<br />
• The Government Pension Fund<br />
is currently worth more than<br />
$196 billion.<br />
• At the end of <strong>2006</strong>, the fund is<br />
expected to be worth $220<br />
billion. That is approximately<br />
$43,000 per Norwegian, up<br />
from $1500 per Norwegian in<br />
1996.<br />
• At the current growth rate the<br />
Government Pension Fund will<br />
be the world’s second largest<br />
retirement fund by the end of<br />
this year.<br />
• Income from the petroleum<br />
sector accounts for 21 per<br />
cent of the Norwegian GDP<br />
• 47 percent of <strong>Norway</strong>’s<br />
exports are petroleum related.<br />
www.norway.org/business | 11
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:36 AM Page 12<br />
what’s cooking<br />
Author Diane Morgan went to the Wild Salmon Center in Lærdal, <strong>Norway</strong>,<br />
as part of her research for writing "Salmon: A Cookbook"<br />
The Portland, Ore.-based chef-turned-food<br />
writer and has written 11 cook books, about<br />
everything from pizzas to midnight<br />
munchies. “My interest<br />
in food came from a summer<br />
job I had at a restaurant,”<br />
Morgan said. “I had some<br />
great mentors there who made<br />
me really interested in food.”<br />
Recently she published<br />
“Salmon,” a cook book about<br />
her epic but entertaining quest<br />
to learn everything there is to<br />
know about the feisty fish.<br />
“I’ve always had a very special<br />
interest in salmon,” said Morgan. “It’s<br />
always been my favorite food, so when my<br />
publisher approached me with a book project<br />
about salmon I jumped right on it.”<br />
Her adventure took her around the world,<br />
from Alaska to Scotland, and finally to<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>. “I had a great trip to <strong>Norway</strong>. I visited<br />
the Wild Salmon Center in Lærdal, and<br />
they’re doing very interesting work. I also<br />
took the train from Oslo to Flåm, and it was<br />
such a great way to see the countryside.”<br />
“The visit to Lærdal was very helpful,<br />
and it gave me a lot of background about<br />
the environmental issues associated with<br />
farmed fish,” Morgan said. At the center’s<br />
observatory, she was able to<br />
view wild salmon and trout<br />
through panoramic windows<br />
looking into the river itself.<br />
“Farmed or wild,<br />
salmon is extremely<br />
healthy, and is the<br />
ultimate source<br />
of protein.”<br />
“To me,<br />
food is about a<br />
passion<br />
life,” said<br />
Morgan.<br />
“It is a way<br />
to create<br />
for<br />
cultural exchange, and it’s a way for different<br />
people to come together and experience each<br />
other’s cultures.”<br />
Hooked on Salmon<br />
Shaved Fennel, Lemon, and Arugula Salad, with Pan-Seared Salmon<br />
Vinaigrette<br />
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil<br />
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest<br />
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice<br />
1 clove garlic, minced<br />
½ teaspoon sugar<br />
¾ teaspoon kosher or sea salt<br />
Freshly ground pepper<br />
1. In a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine<br />
the extra-virgin olive oil, lemon zest and<br />
juice, garlic, sugar, salt, and lots of pepper.<br />
2. Cover tightly and shake vigorously to<br />
blend.<br />
The Salad<br />
3 cups thinly sliced fennel bulb<br />
(fronds reserved)<br />
2 bunches arugula (about 1/2 pound<br />
total), stemmed<br />
4 salmon fillets (about 5 ounces each),<br />
skin on and scaled, pin bones removed<br />
1. Chop the fennel fronds and measure out<br />
1/3 cup.<br />
2. In a large bowl, combine the fennel,<br />
¼ cup of the fennel fronds (saving the<br />
rest for garnish), and the arugula.<br />
PHOTOS BY CHRONICLE BOOKS AND DIANE MORGAN<br />
3. Toss lightly to mix and set aside.<br />
4. Season the salmon on all sides with kosher<br />
or sea salt and freshly ground pepper.<br />
5. Place a large, heavy skillet over mediumhigh<br />
heat. When the skillet is hot, add 3 tablespoons<br />
of olive oil and swirl to coat the pan.<br />
6. Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook<br />
until the skin is crisp, about 4 minutes.<br />
Carefully turn the salmon and cook until the<br />
fillets are almost opaque throughout, but still<br />
very moist, or an instant-read thermometer<br />
inserted in the center registers 125º to 130ºF,<br />
about 4 minutes. Transfer to a warm plate and<br />
set aside while you toss the salad.<br />
7. Shake the dressing vigorously again and<br />
then toss the salad with it.<br />
8. Arrange the salad on 4 dinner plates. Place<br />
a salmon fillet in the center, on top of the<br />
salad, garnish with the remaining fennel<br />
fronds, and serve immediately.<br />
more<br />
• Information about Norwegian<br />
seafood and recipes<br />
www.seafoodfromnorway.com<br />
• Read about the Wild Salmon<br />
Center in Lærdal<br />
www.norsk-villakssenter.no<br />
• More about Diane Morgan<br />
www.dianemorgancooks.com<br />
12 | www.norway.org/food
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:37 AM Page 13<br />
Leaving Home to Save Home<br />
In 1896, Norwegian immigrant Helga<br />
Estby walked 3,500 miles to New York,<br />
from Spokane, Wash., determined to win a<br />
$10,000 wager – and save her family farm<br />
from foreclosure. A mother of eight living children,<br />
she attempted to save the homestead in<br />
Eastern Washington after the 1893 depression<br />
ravaged the American economy. Fearing<br />
homelessness and poverty for herself and her<br />
family, Helga responded to a challenge posed<br />
by a woman working in New York’s fashion<br />
industry: Walk across the U.S. and win<br />
$10,000 to “prove the endurance of women.”<br />
The rules stipulated that she could leave<br />
home with a maximum of $5 and needed to<br />
earn her way across the route. She had to collect<br />
signatures of mayors and governors along<br />
the way and reach New York in less than 7<br />
months. In addition, she had to enter Salt Lake<br />
City donning a bicycle skirt, a garment that<br />
reached all of four inches above the ankle.<br />
Helga Estby packed a Smith & Wesson<br />
revolver, a pepper spray gun, no change of<br />
clothes, a journal, a pen, a compass, a medical<br />
kit, and a curling iron. Her satchel weighed<br />
only 8 lbs. Estby set out with her 18-year-old<br />
daughter Clara (picture at right), walking 25<br />
miles a day along railroad tracks so they would<br />
not get lost, and sleeping mostly in railroad<br />
depots. Clara was not exactly thrilled about the<br />
journey, but her mother encouraged her: “This<br />
is better than a college education because you<br />
learn about human nature,” she said.<br />
Linda Lawrence Hunt, who for 21 years<br />
Anew translation of Sigrid Undset’s trilogy<br />
about Kristin Lavransdatter is out, to<br />
rave reviews from literary critics.<br />
“The English translation I read as a child<br />
was from the 1920s,” translator Tiina Nunnally<br />
said. “Unlike in Undset’s original, the language<br />
was extremely archaic, there were serious<br />
mistakes, and parts of the book were mysteriously<br />
just left out.”<br />
A Boston Globe critic, Katherine A.<br />
Powers, agreed, calling the original translation<br />
“a book to save for the nursing home years or<br />
a stretch in prison.” Appropriately, the Globe’s<br />
review of the new edition was called “No<br />
Longer Lost in Translation.”<br />
In order to write the new translation,<br />
Nunnally went back to the source. After living<br />
in Denmark, Nunnally speaks Danish and<br />
Norwegian, and was able to read Undset’s<br />
original edition. She translated the three books<br />
between 1997 and 2000, earning a PEN/Bookof-the-month<br />
Club Translation Prize for her<br />
taught English at Whitworth College in<br />
Spokane, tells the story about the 7-month<br />
journey in “Bold Spirit: Helga Estby’s<br />
Forgotten Walk Across Victorian America.”<br />
“When I first heard about it I was curious<br />
about what made the mother of 8 children so<br />
desperate as to leave home to walk across the<br />
continent. The answer was that she left home<br />
to save home,” Hunt said. Sadly, home would<br />
never be the same. Because when Helga and<br />
Clara finally reached New York – within the<br />
stipulated seven months – the benefactor<br />
refused to pay the prize money.<br />
Devastated, mother and daughter started<br />
scrambling to earn money for their return trip.<br />
A railroad magnate gave them train tickets to<br />
Chicago, and from there they made their way<br />
back to Spokane. But by the time Estby<br />
reached Washington, two of her children had<br />
died of diphtheria. The homestead was lost and<br />
her husband had become a carpenter.<br />
Shameful and disappointed, the family<br />
“silenced” Estby’s story for generations. It was<br />
not until a few old newspaper clippings turned<br />
up almost a century later, causing Estby’s<br />
great-great-grandson to hand in an 8th grade<br />
paper titled “Grandma Walks from Coast to<br />
Coast,” that the story resurfaced. Hunt’s husband,<br />
also a professor, was given the paper<br />
when he judged a historical essay competition,<br />
and after reading it immediately passed it on to<br />
his wife. “I was electrified with the story,”<br />
Linda Hunt said. She spent 8 years researching<br />
the story before publishing “Bold Spirit.”<br />
Estby’s route from<br />
Spokane to New York<br />
“Kristin Lavransdatter” Gets Face-Lift<br />
work in 2001. With the new deluxe edition, the<br />
modernized trilogy is available in one book.<br />
“I hope more Americans will rediscover<br />
Sigrid Undset, because she is fantastic,”<br />
Nunnally said. “American readers really crave<br />
the good story, and the story about Kristin is a<br />
real “soap”, in the best sense of the word.”<br />
“Although these books are set in the old<br />
days, the books are very modern in terms of<br />
views of human relationships. There is so<br />
much happening, and it’s so real. You are<br />
dragged into the story, and get a personal relationship<br />
with Kristin. She is in many ways a<br />
flawed human and makes many bad decisions,<br />
but that’s exactly what makes her so real.”<br />
The new edition has an introduction by<br />
Brad Leithauser, a literature professor and regular<br />
contributor to the New York Review of<br />
Books.<br />
Undset wrote the trilogy between 1920 and<br />
1922, and received the Nobel Prize in<br />
Literature for her work in 1928.<br />
PHOTOS COURTESY PORCH/BAHR FAMILY PHOTOGRAPH COLLECTION<br />
books<br />
Bold Spirit<br />
Helga Estby’s Forgotten Walk<br />
Across Victorian America<br />
By Linda Lawrence Hunt<br />
Published by Anchor Books<br />
$14<br />
www.boldspiritacrossamerica.com<br />
Kristin Lavransdatter<br />
By Sigrid Undset<br />
Translated by Tiina Nunnally<br />
Published by Penguin Classics<br />
$25.00 (CAN $35.00)<br />
spring <strong>2006</strong> | news of norway | 13
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:38 AM Page 14<br />
FELDSPAR BY ESPEN EIBORG<br />
For a complete and<br />
updated calendar of<br />
events please visit<br />
www.norway.org<br />
east coast<br />
exhibits<br />
Frost: Life & Culture of the Sámi<br />
– Reindeer People of <strong>Norway</strong><br />
WASHINGTON D.C., Through April<br />
Norwegian Sámi photographer<br />
Fred Ivar Utsi Klemetsen's photo<br />
essay "FROST" documents the<br />
life of those who still herd their<br />
reindeer the traditional way. At the<br />
Baird Ambulatory Gallery, National<br />
Museum of Natural History.<br />
Info: 202-633-1000<br />
Elise Martens at Art Space Gallery<br />
NEW HAVEN, CT., Through March 18<br />
Elise Martens will show her prototype<br />
rocking chair in steel, as well<br />
as large scale digital photographs<br />
in the project "Confinement and<br />
the Arts of Decoration."<br />
Info: 203-772-2709<br />
Espen Eiborg<br />
NEW YORK, Through April 28<br />
Espen Eiborg exhibits internationally<br />
and his paintings are part of<br />
both private and corporate collections<br />
worldwide. At the Clodagh<br />
Collection Showroom.<br />
Info: 212-780-5300<br />
Designer Pia Myrvold in "The<br />
Fashion of Architecture: Constructing<br />
the Architecture of Fashion"<br />
NEW YORK,<br />
Through Mar. 11<br />
The Center for<br />
Architecture in<br />
New York presents<br />
new work<br />
from leading<br />
architects and<br />
fashion designers<br />
such as<br />
Shigeru Ban and<br />
Pia Myrvold.<br />
Info: 212-683-0023<br />
info@aiany.org<br />
PHOTO BY JOHANNES WORSØE BERG<br />
STILL FROM FILM BY NEDREAAS<br />
Rune Olsen in "Archival to<br />
Contemporary: Six Decades of<br />
the Sculptors Guild"<br />
BROOKVILLE, NY., Through April 8<br />
Olsen is a new member of the<br />
Sculptors Guild and the exhibition<br />
is a survey of the guild's history,<br />
spanning the course of six<br />
decades.<br />
Info: 516-299-4073<br />
or museum@cwpost.liu.edu<br />
Trine Lise Nedreaas<br />
NEW YORK, Through March 25<br />
Norwegian artist Nedreaas shows<br />
her art work at the LUXE Gallery.<br />
Info: 212-404-7455<br />
music<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>-Balkan Music, With<br />
Students from Juilliard School<br />
of Music<br />
NEW YORK, March 2<br />
Five young musicians are involved<br />
in this project, among them<br />
Norwegian Ola Gjeilo, at<br />
Scandinavia House.<br />
Info: 212-847-9740<br />
Magnus Martensson & Friends:<br />
Music & Comedy<br />
NEW YORK, March 10 and April 21<br />
Magnus Martensson, conductor of<br />
the Scandinavian Chamber<br />
Orchestra, invites three critically<br />
acclaimed musicians to perform<br />
with him in a new concert series<br />
that will include great music as<br />
well as what critics have called<br />
"hilarious and clever comedy."<br />
Info: 212-847-9740<br />
ASF Fellows Concert: David<br />
Coucheron & Ingrid Emanuelsson<br />
NEW YORK, April 6<br />
Ingrid Emanuelsson, a recent<br />
graduate from Hunter College with<br />
an M.A. in piano performance will<br />
play with violinist David<br />
Coucheron. At Scandinavia House<br />
Info: 212-847-9740<br />
PHOTO BY SCANDINAVIA HOUSE<br />
munch<br />
"Edvard Munch: The Modern<br />
Life of the Soul" at Museum of<br />
Modern Art (MoMA)<br />
NEW YORK, Through May 8<br />
The first major retrospective<br />
devoted to the work of Munch to<br />
be held in an American museum in<br />
almost three decades.<br />
Info: 212-708-9400<br />
Edvard Munch: Symbolism in Print<br />
NEW YORK, Through May 13<br />
Highlights from the Munch exhibition<br />
at the Museum of Modern Art,<br />
at Scandinavia House.<br />
Info: 212-879-9779<br />
or www.scandinaviahouse.org<br />
The Edvard Munch Biopic at<br />
MoMA<br />
NEW YORK, March 10 - 12<br />
Info: 212-708-9400<br />
A Collector's Perspective on<br />
Munch<br />
NEW YORK, March 21<br />
Sarah G. Epstein, collector of<br />
Edvard Munch prints since the<br />
early 1960s, will give a slide lecture<br />
on the life and art of the<br />
famous Norwegian artist.<br />
Info: 212-879-9779<br />
or www.scandinaviahouse.org<br />
Munch, Sex, and Modernity<br />
NEW YORK, April 20<br />
Dr. Patricia G. Berman, a professor<br />
of art at Wellesley College,<br />
Mass., will present aspects of<br />
Munch's visual dialogues with<br />
modern notions of sexuality.<br />
Info: 212-879-9779<br />
or www.scandinaviahouse.org.<br />
children’s events<br />
Viking Seafarers: The First<br />
Europeans’ Journey to America<br />
NEW YORK, March 11 and April 8<br />
Presentation for children 5+ about<br />
Vikings.<br />
Info: 212-879-9779<br />
or info@amscan.org. Call 212-<br />
847-9740 for reservations<br />
.<br />
The Long, Adventurous Life of<br />
Edvard Munch<br />
NEW YORK, March 18<br />
In this interactive presentation<br />
with performer Rolf Stang, children<br />
5+ can learn about Edvard<br />
Munch.<br />
Info: 212-879-9779<br />
or info@amscan.org. Call 212-<br />
847-9740 for reservations<br />
poetry<br />
Poetry Readings by Norwegian<br />
Poet and Novelist Dag Sundby<br />
NEW YORK, April 23<br />
Dag Sundby will read some of his<br />
works at the Norwegian Seamen's<br />
Church on Manhattan, immediately<br />
translated to English. He will<br />
also tour universities in Conn.<br />
Info: 212-319-0370<br />
or newyork@sjomannskirken.no<br />
classes<br />
Norwegian Classes at the<br />
Norwegian Seamen's Church<br />
Classes last for 12 weeks and are<br />
educating, socializing and fun!<br />
Beginner, intermediate and<br />
advanced courses available.<br />
info: 212-319-0370<br />
or newyork@sjomannskirken.no<br />
seminars<br />
Seminar about Auroras, Flares,<br />
Spots and Storms<br />
WASHINGTON, D.C., June 17<br />
The Smithsonian and NASA are<br />
hosting a seminar about the sun<br />
with Norwegian scientist Pål<br />
Brekke.<br />
Info: Smithsonian, 202-633-1000<br />
”THE DANCE OF LIFE” 1899-1900, OIL ON CANVAS. THE NATIONAL<br />
MUSEUM OF ART, ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN/NATIONAL GALLERY,<br />
OSLO. (C) <strong>2006</strong> THE MUNCH MUSEUM/THE MUNCH-ELLINGSEN<br />
GROUP/ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK<br />
14 | news of norway | spring <strong>2006</strong>
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:40 AM Page 15<br />
PHOTO BY PERBREVIG.COM<br />
seminars<br />
The Scandinavian Example:<br />
The Return of Equality in World<br />
Politics<br />
NEW YORK, April 3<br />
Dr. Bo Rothstein will address the<br />
current shift in the intellectual climate<br />
in the social sciences, where<br />
Scandinavian-style social equality<br />
is once again considered important<br />
for both economic growth and<br />
individual well-being.<br />
Info: 212-847-9740<br />
or www.scandinaviahouse.org<br />
south west<br />
music<br />
Per Brevig and the East Texas<br />
Symphony Orchestra<br />
TYLER, TX., April 22<br />
Norwegian-born conductor Per<br />
Brevig will conduct the East Texas<br />
Symphony Orchestra<br />
Info: 903-526-3876<br />
or info@etso.org<br />
festival<br />
"Snowshoe" Thompson<br />
Anniversary Celebration<br />
Genoa, NV., March 11<br />
John Thompson – originally Jon<br />
Torsteinson-Rue – came from<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> to the U.S. in the 1830s,<br />
and became legendary in<br />
California and Nevada for his winter-time<br />
mail delivery on skis, carrying<br />
mail and medicines to 49ers<br />
stranded in the Sierra Nevadas.<br />
This year is the 150th anniversary<br />
of his first mail run, celebrated in<br />
Genoa with cross country skiing,<br />
food and entertainment.<br />
Info: 530-694-2266<br />
PHOTO: NORWEGIAN-AMERICAN HISTORICAL ASSSOCIATION<br />
midwest<br />
lecture/literature<br />
Princess Märtha Louise<br />
SALT LAKE CITY, UT: April 6-7<br />
Author of “Why Kings and Queens<br />
Don’t Wear Crowns”<br />
Info: www.norway.org<br />
music<br />
Sangerfest <strong>2006</strong><br />
DECORAH, IA, June 28 - July 2<br />
The Norwegian Singers' Association<br />
of America, with 350 singers<br />
Info: 563-382-3088<br />
or www.nsaaonline.org<br />
exhibit<br />
36th Annual Norse Rosemaling<br />
MILWAUKEE, WI., April 1 - 2<br />
Juried rosemaling show with<br />
approximately 150 entries.<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> House/Sons of <strong>Norway</strong><br />
Info: 262-767-2857<br />
or bjnellen@sbcglobal.net<br />
conference<br />
The 18th Annual Nobel Peace<br />
Prize Forum with Nobel laureate<br />
Dr. Wangari Maathai<br />
DECORAH, IA, March 10-11<br />
The Nobel Peace Prize Forum will<br />
honor the work of Nobel laureate<br />
Dr. Wangari Maathai, a former<br />
biology professor who founded the<br />
Green Belt Movement in Kenya.<br />
Maathai will be the keynote<br />
speaker, talking about sustainable<br />
development. With Geir<br />
Lundestad, Director of the<br />
Norwegian Nobel Institute. At<br />
Luther College<br />
Info: 563-387-1001<br />
or nppf@luther.edu<br />
www.peaceprizeforum.org<br />
festival<br />
16th Annual Scandinavian Festival<br />
HALES CORNERS, WI., May 6<br />
The Nordic Council of Wisconsin<br />
presents the 16th annual indoor<br />
Scandinavian festival, celebrating<br />
scandinavian culture through arts<br />
and craft demonstrations, genealogy<br />
sessions, and ethnic food.<br />
Info: 414-425-0846, 262-560-<br />
0232 or ellenjohnholmi@myexcel.com<br />
west coast<br />
exhibits<br />
Anne Karin Senstad's Portraits<br />
from her book "The Norwegians"<br />
PORT HADLOCK, WA., Through<br />
May 20, The Art Mine Gallery<br />
Info: www.senstad.com<br />
"Revisited": Photos from<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> by Helene Sobol<br />
Seattle, WA., Through April 2<br />
Nordic Heritage Museum<br />
Info: 206-789-5707<br />
www.nordicmuseum.org<br />
www.helenesobol.com<br />
Sensuality & Survival: New<br />
Nordic Designs <strong>2006</strong><br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA.,<br />
March 9 – April 19<br />
This exhibition of top Nordic<br />
designers presents design with an<br />
emphasis on both the sensual<br />
beauty of craft design as well as<br />
innovative design allowing for survival<br />
in emergency situations.<br />
Atrium Gallery & Courtyard<br />
Info: www.nordic5arts.org<br />
Desire, Anxiety and Loss: The<br />
Prints of Edvard Munch<br />
STANFORD, CA.,<br />
March 22 - June 25<br />
Exhibition of nearly 40 etchings,<br />
litographs and woodcuts by<br />
Info: 650-725-3155<br />
Norwegian Folk Art Exhibit<br />
SAN DIEGO, CA, Through March 30<br />
The largest Norwegian folk art<br />
exhibit to be shown in California<br />
features selected pieces from the<br />
Vesterheim museum in Iowa, local<br />
collectors, and Norwegian contributors.<br />
At Mingei International<br />
Museum on El Prado in Balboa<br />
Park.<br />
Info: 619-286-8641<br />
PHOTO BY CATHRINE MASKE<br />
festival<br />
calendar<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> Day <strong>2006</strong><br />
SAN FRANCISCO,<br />
CA., May 6 - 7<br />
An estimated 5,000<br />
annual visitors make<br />
this the largest<br />
Norwegian Festival in<br />
the U.S. Lots of food,<br />
music, and a 5/10k<br />
run. At Fort Mason,<br />
Herbst Pavillion, San Francisco.<br />
info: www.norwayday.org<br />
walk<br />
Seven Hills Walk<br />
SEATTLE, WA., May 5<br />
Organized by the Seattle-Bergen<br />
sister city association. Walk<br />
through Seattle is inspired by a<br />
similar tradition in Bergen.<br />
Info: robert_gaudet@yahoo.com<br />
classes<br />
Scandinavian School<br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA<br />
Courses in Norwegian language<br />
and culture, from pre-school<br />
through advanced levels.<br />
Info: www.scandinavianschool.org<br />
Scandia Camp<br />
MENDOCINO, CA., June 10 - 17<br />
A week long camp where one can<br />
immerse oneself in the dance,<br />
music, and culture of <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
Info: 630-985-7192<br />
or dancingroo@aol.com<br />
literature<br />
Solveig Torvik Book Signing<br />
SEATTLE, WA., March 4<br />
Solveig Torvik, former journalist<br />
from the Seattle Post-Intelligencer<br />
will read at the Nordic Heritage<br />
Museum from her new book<br />
“Nikolai's Fortune”<br />
Info: 206-789-5707<br />
or www.nordicmuseum.org<br />
music<br />
Leif Ove Andsnes<br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA., April 30<br />
Davies Symphony Hall<br />
Info: 415-552-8000<br />
Flunk in Concert<br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA., May 6<br />
Norwegian Folktronica Foursome<br />
Flunk plays at Herbst Pavillion, as<br />
a part of the <strong>Norway</strong> Day festival.<br />
Info: 415-987-8055<br />
lecture<br />
Roald Amundsen Lecture<br />
SAN FRANCISCO, CA., April 9<br />
Dr. Tim Baughman will discuss the<br />
adventures of Roald Amundsen at<br />
the Commonwealth Club<br />
Info: 415-597-6700<br />
www.norway.org | 15
69725_EoN.qxp 3/10/<strong>2006</strong> 6:42 AM Page 16<br />
news of norway<br />
Royal Norwegian Embassy<br />
2720 34th. St., NW<br />
Washington, D.C. 20008<br />
(202) 333-6000<br />
www.norway.org<br />
PRESORTED<br />
STANDARD<br />
U.S. POSTAGE<br />
PAID<br />
Washington, D.C.<br />
Permit No. 251<br />
cover photo<br />
PHOTO BY TERJE RAKKE/INNOVATION NORWAY<br />
A PURE ESCAPE:<br />
Kayaking is one of<br />
many activities that<br />
bring people closer<br />
to enjoying the landscape<br />
of the western<br />
fjords of <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
www.norway.org<br />
plays<br />
Hedda Gabler<br />
BROOKLYN, NY, Through Mar. 26<br />
Oscar-nominated actress Cate<br />
Blanchett stars in the Sydney<br />
Theatre Company’s production of<br />
Hedda Gabler.<br />
Info: 718-636-4182<br />
readings<br />
Evenings with Ibsen at the<br />
Norwegian Seamen’s Church<br />
NEW YORK, Last Tuesday of<br />
every month<br />
Selected works by Ibsen will be<br />
read, followed by discussion.<br />
Info: 212-319-0370<br />
<strong>2006</strong> marks the 100th anniversary<br />
of the death of the Norwegian<br />
playwright Henrik Ibsen. His life<br />
and work will be commemorated<br />
throughout the year, which in<br />
<strong>Norway</strong> has been named the<br />
“Ibsen Year.” For updated information<br />
about plays and festivals, see<br />
www.norway.org<br />
An Enemy of the People<br />
WATERVILLE, ME, March 16 - 18<br />
Info: 207-859-4535<br />
An Enemy Of The People<br />
HATTIESBURG, MS., Mar 16 - 26.<br />
Info: www.usm.edu/theatre<br />
A Doll’s House<br />
ANN ARBOR, MI., Mar. 16-Apr. 23<br />
Info: 734-663-0681 or visit<br />
www.performancenetwork.org<br />
Mabou Mines Dollhouse<br />
NEW ENGLAND (tour) Mar 29-Apr 9<br />
Info: 212-473-0559 or visit<br />
www.maboumines.org<br />
Peer Gynt<br />
FARGO, ND., April 6 - 14<br />
Info: 701-231-9442 www.ndsu.edu<br />
Peer Gynt<br />
BROOKLYN, NYC, April 11 - 16<br />
Directed by Robert Wilson<br />
(see page 3 for review)<br />
Info: 718-636-4100<br />
Hedda Gabler<br />
SPRINGFIELD, IL., April 14 - 23<br />
Info: 217-206-6160 or 800-207-<br />
6960<br />
Hedda Gabler<br />
CINCINNATI, OH, April 27 - 29<br />
Info: 513-556-4183<br />
Hedda Gabler<br />
OLNEY, MD., June 21 – July 23<br />
Info: 301-924-3400<br />
An Enemy of the People<br />
WASHINGTON, DC: Opens<br />
September 5.<br />
Shakespeare Theatre Company,<br />
Washington DC. Directed by Kjetil<br />
Bang - Hansen, National Theatre<br />
of <strong>Norway</strong>.<br />
Info: 202-547-1122<br />
The Master Builder<br />
GLENDALE, CA., October 10 -<br />
December 11<br />
Info: http://anoisewithin.org/season.shtml<br />
or 818-240-0910<br />
film<br />
An Enemy of the People<br />
MINNEAPOLIS, MN., April 14 - 29<br />
The Minneapolis St. Paul International<br />
Film Festival.<br />
Info: 612-331-3134 or info@mnfilmarts.org<br />
Nora<br />
NEW YORK, Through March 12<br />
Director Ingmar Bergman's adaptation<br />
of Ibsen's play A Doll's<br />
House is coming to Manhattan for<br />
the first time in its 25-year history.<br />
Info: (212) 352-3101 or<br />
www.theatermania.com for tickets<br />
tour<br />
Tour <strong>Norway</strong> in Ibsen's<br />
Footprints<br />
July 26 - August 9<br />
Info: Adrienne at 507-467-2905<br />
ext 208 or adrienne@commonwealtheatre.org<br />
for details, or visit<br />
http://vesterheim.org/travel/Tours_<br />
<strong>Norway</strong>.php<br />
PHOTO: ERIK BERG