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Winter 2010 - The Alpine Club of Canada

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Peter Fuhrmann awarded Summit <strong>of</strong> Excellence<br />

by Lynn Martel<br />

At the height <strong>of</strong> the summer<br />

climbing season in August 1971,<br />

the Banff Park warden service<br />

received a call that an army cadet had<br />

been struck by falling rock while climbing<br />

on Mount Edith. By good fortune,<br />

the public safety team, led by Peter<br />

Fuhrmann, Parks’ alpine specialist for<br />

western <strong>Canada</strong>, was practicing rescue<br />

techniques with the aid <strong>of</strong> a helicopter,<br />

a system Fuhrmann had recently been<br />

introduced to while visiting a friend in<br />

Munich during a family vacation. With<br />

a helicopter, a sling and a stretcher, the<br />

injured cadet was flown to nearby Banff<br />

Mineral Springs Hospital in less than<br />

an hour. With a traditional land rescue<br />

taking hours to carry out, no doubt<br />

the cadet, suffering from serious head<br />

trauma, was saved from succumbing from<br />

his injuries. <strong>The</strong> modern technology <strong>of</strong><br />

helicopter-assisted mountain rescue had<br />

arrived in <strong>Canada</strong>.<br />

Now, four decades later, techniques<br />

and systems developed by Fuhrmann and<br />

his colleagues—including Willi Pfisterer,<br />

who served as Parks <strong>Canada</strong>’s alpine specialist<br />

for Jasper, Waterton, Revelstoke/<br />

Glacier and Kluane parks—have since<br />

helped save hundreds <strong>of</strong> lives in Canadian<br />

national parks and wilderness areas.<br />

Fuhrmann is recognized for modernizing<br />

rescue training techniques within the<br />

mountain parks, introducing the helicopter<br />

sling and for taking generations<br />

<strong>of</strong> young wardens on gruelling training<br />

missions dubbed “Fuhrmann Sanctions”.<br />

He also introduced the idea <strong>of</strong> helicopter<br />

Participants on Week 5 <strong>of</strong> the <strong>2010</strong><br />

General Mountaineering Camp<br />

(GMC), which took place in the<br />

Battle Brook Range <strong>of</strong> BC’s Columbia<br />

Mountains, were thrilled to find treasure<br />

in the summit cairn on Grand Mountain.<br />

Inside the cairn was tucked a small, rusty<br />

tin which appeared to contain the summit<br />

registry.<br />

Upon opening the tin, they discovered<br />

only three entries inside—one from 1976,<br />

one from 1955 and, most remarkably,<br />

a business card belonging to Howard<br />

Palmer. On it he and E. Holway recorded<br />

the first ascent <strong>of</strong> the peak in August, 1910.<br />

26 <strong>Alpine</strong> <strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> Gazette <strong>Winter</strong> <strong>2010</strong><br />

bombing for avalanche control, and<br />

many <strong>of</strong> his rescue techniques have been<br />

adopted by rescue teams throughout<br />

North America.<br />

In recognition <strong>of</strong> his numerous contributions,<br />

Fuhrmann, a dedicated member<br />

<strong>of</strong> the Canadian mountain community<br />

for six decades, was named recipient<br />

<strong>of</strong> the <strong>2010</strong> Summit <strong>of</strong> Excellence<br />

(SOE) Award. Sponsored by Canadian<br />

Mountain Holidays, the SOE is presented<br />

annually on closing night <strong>of</strong> the<br />

Banff Mountain Film Festival to a person<br />

who has made a significant contribution<br />

to mountain life in the Canadian Rockies.<br />

Disillusioned with post WWII<br />

corporate politics after being recruited<br />

for a management position by Shell Oil,<br />

Fuhrmann arrived in Banff from his native<br />

Germany in 1955. He worked on a survey<br />

crew and as a regional draughtsman for<br />

the department <strong>of</strong> public works before<br />

earning his Parks mountain guide license<br />

in 1961, the same year he joined the <strong>Alpine</strong><br />

<strong>Club</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Canada</strong> (ACC). He guided on the<br />

ACC’s Yukon Centennial Camp in 1967,<br />

led climbs in Peru and the Himalaya and<br />

was a founding member <strong>of</strong> the Association<br />

<strong>of</strong> Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG),<br />

which was formed in 1963.<br />

He worked with Parks’ first alpine<br />

specialist Walter Perren, helping to train<br />

horseback-riding wardens in climbing<br />

rescue techniques. After Perren died <strong>of</strong><br />

illness, in 1968 Fuhrmann became Parks’<br />

alpine specialist for western <strong>Canada</strong>—a<br />

position which eventually included<br />

Cape Breton Highlands, Gros Morne,<br />

Auyuittuq-Baffin Island, Ellesmere<br />

Island, Pacific Rim and South Moresby<br />

parks.<br />

A tireless advocate for high alpine<br />

recreation and safe guiding practices in<br />

the parks, Fuhrmann served as president,<br />

secretary treasurer and examiner for the<br />

ACMG. Starting with Balfour in 1965,<br />

he was instrumental in the conception,<br />

planning and construction <strong>of</strong> high alpine<br />

shelters on the Wapta Icefield. Believing<br />

the Canadian Rockies had everything<br />

to <strong>of</strong>fer that Europe’s Alps did for the<br />

development <strong>of</strong> multi-day glacier ski<br />

traverses, Fuhrmann played a major role<br />

in developing the ACC’s backcountry hut<br />

system.<br />

Serving as ACC president from 1984<br />

thru 1988, Fuhrmann’s efforts and expertise<br />

helped revitalize the then struggling<br />

national climbing club, strengthening<br />

management and modernizing its<br />

activities to attract new members. He<br />

also nurtured the ACC/Hostelling<br />

International partnership that led to<br />

the creation <strong>of</strong> the popular Lake Louise<br />

<strong>Alpine</strong> Centre. His involvement with the<br />

Town <strong>of</strong> Banff ’s hospital board led to the<br />

relocation and expansion <strong>of</strong> the Mineral<br />

Springs Hospital.<br />

“Peter is incredibly deserving <strong>of</strong> this<br />

honour,” said SOE committee member<br />

Nancy Hansen. “He has contributed to<br />

our mountain community in a variety <strong>of</strong><br />

invaluable ways throughout his entire<br />

life.”<br />

Reprinted with permission from the<br />

Rocky Mountain Outlook.<br />

Summit cairn contains rare treasure at GMC<br />

“It was a pretty special moment to<br />

realize that we had arrived on top within<br />

a couple <strong>of</strong> weeks <strong>of</strong> the 100th anniversary<br />

<strong>of</strong> the first ascent <strong>of</strong> this peak!” said<br />

ACMG guide Jeremy Mackenzie. “Those<br />

guys were tough! We recorded our names<br />

in the registry (and those <strong>of</strong> the other<br />

successful GMCers from earlier in the<br />

week), and then returned the tin and its<br />

contents to the cairn.”

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