IASPEI - Picture Gallery

IUGG XXIV General Assembly July 2-13, 2007 Perugia, Italy
(S) - IASPEI - International Association of Seismology and Physics of the Earth's
Interior
JSS002 Oral Presentation 1751
Long wave runup on the plane beach
Prof. Efim Pelinovsky
Nonlinear Geophysical Processes CHief Scientist IAPSO
Didenkulova Irina, Soomere Tarmo, Zahibo Narcisse
The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions
of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. An interesting moment here is the analysis of the runup of a
certain class of asymmetric waves, the face slope steepness of which exceeds the back slope steepness.
Shown is that the runup height increases when the relative face slope steepness increases whereas the
rundown weakly depends on the steepness. Another new result concerns an influence of initial wave
form on extremal (maximal) characteristics of the wave on a beach (runup and rundown heights, runup
and randown velocities and breaking parameter). It is suggested to define a wave length for solitary
waves on a 2/3 level of the maximum height (it is connected with length of significant wave in
oceanology). In this case formulas for extremal runup characteristics are universal and the influence of
initial wave form on extremal runup characteristics is weak.
Keywords: tsunami, runup