CFTECH - Classic Ford

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how to: sump baffling 5 6 7 When he’s worked out how far up the sump the oil comes, Dave measures the length... ...Then the width — this time with dividers as you can’t get a ruler in there! Then transfer the two measurements into a trial piece of metal, bent at the ends... 8 9 10 ...He has made two so we can check for both width and length before... ...Dave transfers the basic measurements into a card template. Note: the baffle should end up no more than 12 mm above the fill level. Next we needed to establish the siting of the oil pick-up. This can be tricky because it’s a very tight fit in the block — ours is a dummy and difficult to get out again. 11 12 13 Then you need to check the fit of the oil pan — normally you’d need a maximum of 6 mm between the gauze and the bottom of the sump but ours is spring loaded... ...So it touches the bottom (which is normal), where you’ll find a witness mark. With this established, we measure the dimensions of the pipe... 14 15 16 ...Plus those of the head of the pick-up pipe gauze, which will establish the size of the hole needed in the baffle plate. Dave transfers the lot to the card template — although this is the actual baffle being checked on the dummy block! After we’ve made our templates and established the correct measurements, Dave transfers the lot into Auto Cad, makes a drawing and has it converted into steel at the laser cutters. September 2010 119
CFTech 17 18 19 The resulting two components bolt together so our next job is to weld in some captive nuts — the screws are temporary but... ...The bolts on the back aren’t. Dave securely Mig-welds these to the back plate with the two bolted up to prevent distortion. Once cooled, we separate the two once more and begin fitting the outer ring in place at the height we established earlier. 20 21 22 Dave initially tacks the ring in place, then goes round and adds some strategic 25 mm long seam-welds — these don’t need welding shut at the gaps around to allow oil to feed in. 23 Finished — it is now ready to be bolted back onto the engine, which now has full oil control! Next job is to securely bolt the two together, which we do with stainless cap-head screws along with thread lock... ...And to make doubly sure, spring washers too. You need as much insurance as possible to prevent the components coming loose — that equals engine wipe-out! 120 September 2010
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CFTECH - Classic Ford

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