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CFTECH - Classic Ford

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how to: sump baffling<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

When he’s worked out how far up the sump the oil<br />

comes, Dave measures the length...<br />

...Then the width — this time with dividers as you<br />

can’t get a ruler in there!<br />

Then transfer the two measurements into a trial<br />

piece of metal, bent at the ends...<br />

8<br />

9<br />

10<br />

...He has made two so we can check for both<br />

width and length before...<br />

...Dave transfers the basic measurements into a<br />

card template. Note: the baffle should end up no<br />

more than 12 mm above the fill level.<br />

Next we needed to establish the siting of the oil<br />

pick-up. This can be tricky because it’s a very tight<br />

fit in the block — ours is a dummy and difficult to<br />

get out again.<br />

11 12 13<br />

Then you need to check the fit of the oil pan —<br />

normally you’d need a maximum of 6 mm<br />

between the gauze and the bottom of the sump<br />

but ours is spring loaded...<br />

...So it touches the bottom (which is normal),<br />

where you’ll find a witness mark.<br />

With this established, we measure the<br />

dimensions of the pipe...<br />

14 15 16<br />

...Plus those of the head of the pick-up pipe gauze,<br />

which will establish the size of the hole needed in<br />

the baffle plate.<br />

Dave transfers the lot to the card template —<br />

although this is the actual baffle being checked on<br />

the dummy block!<br />

After we’ve made our templates and established<br />

the correct measurements, Dave transfers the lot<br />

into Auto Cad, makes a drawing and has it<br />

converted into steel at the laser cutters.<br />

September 2010 119

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