Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation Heavy Duty Balanced Opposed Compressors - Ariel Corporation

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FOR MODELS: JGZ AND JGU SECTION 5 - MAINTENANCE Main Bearings - Removal/Installation w/Crankshaft Removed NOTE: MAIN BEARINGS AND CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS ARE NOT FUNCTION- ALLY INTERCHANGEABLE. MAIN BEARINGS HAVE A WIDER GROOVE AND LARGER OIL HOLE. DO NOT PUT A MAIN BEARING IN A CONNECTING ROD BEARING LOCATION. DO NOT MIX BEARING SHELL PART NUMBERS ON AN INDIVIDUAL MAIN OR CONNECTING ROD. BOTH HALF SHELLS MUST HAVE THE SAME ARIEL PART NUMBER. IT IS ALSO RECOMMENDED THAT ALL MAIN BEARINGS IN A COMPRESSOR HAVE THE SAME PART NUMBER. 1. Do not remove a main bearing cap to check for bearing wear, if cap is removed it is recommended that a new bearing is installed, i.e. DO NOT REUSE BEAR- ING SHELLS. Determine bearing wear by checking actual jack and crankshaft thrust clearances against the clearance limits given in Table 1-4 on Page 1-13. See “Checking Main Bearing Clearances” on Page 5-17. High copper content in the oil analysis may be an indication of main and/or connecting rod bearing wear, and/or chain idler, crosshead, connecting rod bushings wear (excessive use of anti-seize lubricates can also elevate copper content in the oil analysis). 2. There are notches in the frame and bearing cap for the bearing tabs in order to position and maintain the position of the bearing halves. Check the new bearing shells for handling damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tab. DO NOT RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. The bearing shells must be absolutely clean and the outside diameter dry. 3. Remove the bearing half shell by rotating/sliding it out, tab end first. Be sure the main bearing saddles and bearing caps are clean and dry. And crankshaft is absolutely clean, and free from nicks and burrs. New bearings are to be rotated/ slid in (untabbed end first), and snapped into place. Locate tabs in the notches in the bearing saddles and bearing caps. 4. See “Crankshaft - Installation” on Page 5-26. Main Bearings - Removal/Installation w/Crankshaft In Place NOTE: REPLACE ONE MAIN BEARING AT A TIME. REMOVE THE CAP ON THE BEARING BEING CHANGED, CHANGE THAT BEARING AND REPLACE THE CAP AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTING PRIOR TO STARTING THE NEXT BEARING. 1. Operate the pre-lube pump to lubricate the bearings, prior to rotating the crankshaft. 2. Follow instructions in Caution page 5-1. Remove coupling center member or otherwise lockout. 3. Remove the top covers, gaskets, top cover and main bearing spacer bars. Tip: If the spacer bar cap screws are difficult to remove, use a 12 point slugging wrench and hammer. Spacer bars are a sliding fit and should be capable of being removed by hand, without falling out or hammering to remove. If too loose or too tight, contact your packager or Ariel before proceeding. Remove the RTD’s/thermocouples from the main bearing caps and place them so they will not be damaged when replacing the bearings. 4. Remove the cap screws from main (journal) bearing cap #1. The separately purchased hydraulic connecting rod/main bearing-caps cap screw torquing tool and the appropriate electric or pneumatic pump (see Figure 7-12 on Page 7-7), are 7/09 PAGE 5 - 23

FOR MODELS: JGZ AND JGU SECTION 5 - MAINTENANCE used to loosen the cap screws. This tool reacts against the opposite diagonal cap screw. Be sure that the hydraulic tool is configured for loosening the main bearing-caps cap screws. Pull the bearing cap straight up to prevent damage to the dowel fit and remove the cap. If a bearing cap is tight, use a Main Bearing Cap Puller as shown in Figure 5-14 on Page 5-20. 5. Remove the used bearing half shell from the main bearing cap. 6. If necessary, attach clean nylon lifting straps around the crankshaft and lift slightly to take some of the weight off the bearings and allow for easier disassembly of the frame bearing half shell. 7. Remove the used bearing half shell from under the crankshaft, by rotating out. Start rotating shell under the crankshaft tab-side out first, by pushing or tapping with a non-metallic tool on the opposite split face side. 8. To ease the removal of the bottom main bearing shell, it may help to reinstall the spacer bar over a particular main bearing location and tighten the spacer bar bolting. 9. Once the bearing half shell is completely loose, use Ariel separately purchased Plastic Main-Bearing Removal Tool (G-10706 or may be made from a print supplied by Ariel) to push out the bearing half shell. Once started the shell may be rotated out. Releasing the lifting straps and manually rotating the crankshaft may be helpful. Be careful not to damage the crankshaft bearing surfaces. 10. Check the new bearing shells for handling damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tab. DO NOT RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. The bearing shells must be absolutely clean. New bearing shells are marked with ink stamp pictographs of the frame or connecting rod for their respective locations. DO NOT THEM MIX UP. NOTE: MAIN BEARINGS AND CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS ARE NOT FUNCTION- ALLY INTERCHANGABLE. MAIN BEARINGS HAVE A WIDER GROOVE AND LARGER OIL HOLE. DO NOT PUT A MAIN BEARING IN A CONNECTING ROD BEARING LOCATION. DO MIX BEARING SHELL PART NUMBERS ON AN INDI- VIDUAL MAIN OR CONNECTING ROD. BOTH HALF SHELLS MUST HAVE THE SAME ARIEL PART NUMBER. IT IS ALSO RECOMMENDED THAT ALL MAIN BEARINGS IN A COMPRESSOR HAVE THE SAME PART NUMBER. 11. Oil the bearing face surface of a new main bearing half shell with new clean lubricating oil, same type as is used in the frame. Install the new bearing half shell in the frame #1 bearing position, properly located in the tab notch, by rotating in the untabbed end first, keeping the back of the shell dry and clean. 12. Clean and dry main bearing cap to bearing shell surfaces and install a new dry bearing half shell, properly located in the tab notch. 13. Replace thrust plates on the bearing cap (applies to #1 only), if crankshaft thrust clearance is not within tolerance. 14. Oil visible crankshaft bearing surfaces with new clean lubricating oil, same type as is used in the frame, before installing the main bearing cap with the new half shell. 15. Install the main bearing cap containing the new top bearing half shell into the frame. Be sure the dowels in the main bearing caps are aligned with the holes in the crankcase base. 16. Lubricate the main bearing-caps cap screw threads and seating surfaces with Never-Seez, regular grade and install, lightly snugged. Tighten the bearing-caps PAGE 5 - 24 7/09

FOR MODELS: JGZ AND JGU SECTION 5 - MAINTENANCE<br />

Main Bearings - Removal/Installation w/Crankshaft Removed<br />

NOTE: MAIN BEARINGS AND CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS ARE NOT FUNCTION-<br />

ALLY INTERCHANGEABLE. MAIN BEARINGS HAVE A WIDER GROOVE AND<br />

LARGER OIL HOLE. DO NOT PUT A MAIN BEARING IN A CONNECTING ROD<br />

BEARING LOCATION. DO NOT MIX BEARING SHELL PART NUMBERS ON AN<br />

INDIVIDUAL MAIN OR CONNECTING ROD. BOTH HALF SHELLS MUST HAVE<br />

THE SAME ARIEL PART NUMBER. IT IS ALSO RECOMMENDED THAT ALL<br />

MAIN BEARINGS IN A COMPRESSOR HAVE THE SAME PART NUMBER.<br />

1. Do not remove a main bearing cap to check for bearing wear, if cap is removed<br />

it is recommended that a new bearing is installed, i.e. DO NOT REUSE BEAR-<br />

ING SHELLS. Determine bearing wear by checking actual jack and crankshaft<br />

thrust clearances against the clearance limits given in Table 1-4 on Page 1-13.<br />

See “Checking Main Bearing Clearances” on Page 5-17. High copper content in<br />

the oil analysis may be an indication of main and/or connecting rod bearing<br />

wear, and/or chain idler, crosshead, connecting rod bushings wear (excessive<br />

use of anti-seize lubricates can also elevate copper content in the oil analysis).<br />

2. There are notches in the frame and bearing cap for the bearing tabs in order to<br />

position and maintain the position of the bearing halves. Check the new bearing<br />

shells for handling damage, scratches, burrs, and loose material at the tab. DO<br />

NOT RUB BEARING SURFACE WITH FINGERNAIL. The bearing shells must<br />

be absolutely clean and the outside diameter dry.<br />

3. Remove the bearing half shell by rotating/sliding it out, tab end first. Be sure the<br />

main bearing saddles and bearing caps are clean and dry. And crankshaft is<br />

absolutely clean, and free from nicks and burrs. New bearings are to be rotated/<br />

slid in (untabbed end first), and snapped into place. Locate tabs in the notches<br />

in the bearing saddles and bearing caps.<br />

4. See “Crankshaft - Installation” on Page 5-26.<br />

Main Bearings - Removal/Installation w/Crankshaft In Place<br />

NOTE: REPLACE ONE MAIN BEARING AT A TIME. REMOVE THE CAP ON THE<br />

BEARING BEING CHANGED, CHANGE THAT BEARING AND REPLACE THE<br />

CAP AND TIGHTEN THE BOLTING PRIOR TO STARTING THE NEXT<br />

BEARING.<br />

1. Operate the pre-lube pump to lubricate the bearings, prior to rotating the crankshaft.<br />

2. Follow instructions in Caution page 5-1. Remove coupling center member or<br />

otherwise lockout.<br />

3. Remove the top covers, gaskets, top cover and main bearing spacer bars. Tip: If<br />

the spacer bar cap screws are difficult to remove, use a 12 point slugging<br />

wrench and hammer. Spacer bars are a sliding fit and should be capable of<br />

being removed by hand, without falling out or hammering to remove. If too loose<br />

or too tight, contact your packager or <strong>Ariel</strong> before proceeding. Remove the<br />

RTD’s/thermocouples from the main bearing caps and place them so they will<br />

not be damaged when replacing the bearings.<br />

4. Remove the cap screws from main (journal) bearing cap #1. The separately purchased<br />

hydraulic connecting rod/main bearing-caps cap screw torquing tool and<br />

the appropriate electric or pneumatic pump (see Figure 7-12 on Page 7-7), are<br />

7/09 PAGE 5 - 23

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