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f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013

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The <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />

experience<br />

by S<strong>and</strong>ra Baksh<br />

Port <strong>of</strong> Spain is a prosperous, bustling<br />

city doused in beauty <strong>and</strong> culture but<br />

sometimes, even party animals or<br />

workaholics need to get away for some<br />

relaxation <strong>and</strong> a change <strong>of</strong> scenery. A<br />

drive along the coast <strong>of</strong> the northwest<br />

peninsula leads to Chaguaramas, with<br />

its busy marinas, yachting industry <strong>and</strong><br />

numerous water activities. It is from<br />

here that many locals, expatriates or<br />

tourists find their way to experience the<br />

ultimate Trini excursion—a trip “down the<br />

isl<strong>and</strong>s.”<br />

“Down the isl<strong>and</strong>s” refers to any <strong>of</strong><br />

the <strong>of</strong>fshore isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong>f the northwest<br />

coast: Diego Isl<strong>and</strong>s, Five Isl<strong>and</strong>s, Gaspar<br />

Gr<strong>and</strong>e <strong>and</strong> the Bocas Isl<strong>and</strong>s, the<br />

latter two being the most significant for<br />

overnight camping or longer stays in<br />

mainly privately owned holiday homes.<br />

Bocas Isl<strong>and</strong>s gets its name from the<br />

Spanish word for “mouth” derived from<br />

the three narrow troughs <strong>of</strong> water between<br />

each <strong>of</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong>s called the First, Second<br />

<strong>and</strong> Third Bocas. The Boca Gr<strong>and</strong>e is the<br />

mass <strong>of</strong> ocean between Venezuela <strong>and</strong><br />

its closest point to Chacachacare. The<br />

Bocas were collectively called Boca del<br />

Drago (Dragon’s Mouth) by Christopher<br />

Columbus <strong>and</strong> was (still is) notorious<br />

for its wild currents, high winds, large<br />

swells <strong>and</strong> treacherous rocks surrounding<br />

the isl<strong>and</strong>s. Many shipwrecks have<br />

occurred in the various Bocas over the<br />

centuries, including the famous Doktor<br />

Siegert, 1895, that used to carry cargo<br />

<strong>of</strong> Angostura Bitters between Venezuela<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> which sank after it hit<br />

Bolo Rocks <strong>of</strong>f Chacachacare’s southern<br />

end. Many more unfortunate crashes took<br />

place even with steamships, usually due<br />

to human error in navigating through the<br />

varying marine conditions <strong>of</strong> the Bocas.<br />

The Bocas Isl<strong>and</strong>s comprise Monos,<br />

Huevos <strong>and</strong> Chacachacare as the most<br />

visited group, either for exploration, rest<br />

<strong>and</strong> relaxation or fun <strong>and</strong> frolic. It is also<br />

common to see many fishermen, scuba<br />

divers, WaveRunner or Jet Ski drivers <strong>and</strong><br />

even kayakers enjoying the Caribbean<br />

Sea, so it can be quite busy at times, but<br />

there is freedom to choose where exactly<br />

to go in the vast ocean or on shore.<br />

Chacachacare<br />

Gaspar Gr<strong>and</strong>e<br />

Also known as Gasparee, the isl<strong>and</strong> is<br />

about 330 acres (134 ha) in area <strong>and</strong><br />

at its highest point, it is 339 ft. (103 m).<br />

Down the Isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

It is named after its first owner, Gaspar<br />

de Percin in 1783, who proceeded to<br />

cultivate cotton. There was also a whaling<br />

station at Pt. Baleine (baleine is French<br />

for “whale”) from 1826–1846. British <strong>and</strong><br />

Spanish forts on the isl<strong>and</strong> are worth<br />

exploring.<br />

The isl<strong>and</strong> is geologically different<br />

from the Bocas Isl<strong>and</strong>s being primarily<br />

limestone with fascinating Karst caverns.<br />

The sheer overhangs <strong>of</strong> Gaspar Gr<strong>and</strong>e<br />

are densely developed with magnificent,<br />

brightly coloured holiday homes, most<br />

having private jetties. <strong>Trinidad</strong>ians own<br />

most <strong>of</strong> these exquisite homes, <strong>and</strong> many<br />

are also rented out at attractive rates, to<br />

anyone wanting to get away with friends<br />

Huevos<br />

<strong>and</strong> family for a weekend or special<br />

occasion. All you need is to have access<br />

to a boat, which can be easily hired<br />

at any <strong>of</strong> the marinas or boat yards in<br />

Chaguaramas.<br />

The Gasparee Caves, a major tourist<br />

attraction, are under the management <strong>of</strong><br />

the Chaguaramas Development Authority<br />

(CDA) <strong>and</strong> can only be accessed through<br />

their tour guides. Tours involve a fifteenminute<br />

boat ride from the mainl<strong>and</strong> to Pt.<br />

Baleine then a short walk to the amazing<br />

formations <strong>of</strong> stalactites <strong>and</strong> stalagmites.<br />

Some cave features take the shape <strong>of</strong> a<br />

Expect to see the exquisite Blue Grotto<br />

Cave, with a saltwater pool at its base.<br />

Other caves include: the White Cave, the<br />

Brioge Cavern <strong>and</strong> the Precipice Cavern.<br />

Trips must be prearranged by calling the<br />

CDA at 634-4227 Ext. 130<br />

Monos<br />

Spanish for “monkey”, it is a steep-sided<br />

isl<strong>and</strong> with numerous bays on the south<br />

<strong>and</strong> east side <strong>and</strong> cliffs on the west<br />

<strong>and</strong> north sides <strong>of</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong>. Private<br />

residential <strong>and</strong> vacation homes fill<br />

almost all <strong>of</strong> the bays <strong>and</strong> other available<br />

spaces. Its history includes whaling<br />

stations at Copper Hole <strong>and</strong> Tardieu Bay<br />

<strong>and</strong> the American occupation with gun<br />

emplacements overlooking Biscayern<br />

Bay.<br />

Huevos<br />

Gulf <strong>of</strong> <strong>Paria</strong><br />

dinosaur head, ch<strong>and</strong>elier or cauliflower.<br />

Gasparee Caves<br />

Photo courtesy Chaguaramas Development Authority<br />

Monos<br />

Spanish for “eggs” got its name from the<br />

many marine turtles that used to come<br />

ashore to lay their eggs many years ago.<br />

It is a small isl<strong>and</strong> about 250 acres. To<br />

some it is considered as two islets since<br />

there is a separation known as the Boca<br />

sin entrada (passage without entrance).<br />

The isl<strong>and</strong> is steep-sided except for one<br />

broad s<strong>and</strong>y bay on the southern side<br />

<strong>of</strong> the isl<strong>and</strong>. The Boos family presently<br />

owns it under lease.<br />

74<br />

The <strong>Ins</strong> & <strong>Outs</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong>

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