f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
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Touring<br />
With its few remaining mile posts<br />
jutting from its verges, its lichen-encrusted<br />
abutments <strong>of</strong> long-collapsed bridges, <strong>and</strong><br />
the subservience <strong>of</strong> distance to gradient,<br />
this remnant <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Paria</strong> Main Road<br />
evokes our latent nostalgia for the slower<br />
pace <strong>of</strong> past times. Many other ancient<br />
trails still exist across the Northern Range,<br />
connecting long-ab<strong>and</strong>oned estates <strong>and</strong><br />
settlements. They are historical havens <strong>of</strong><br />
natural <strong>Trinidad</strong> where visitors <strong>of</strong> all ages<br />
can walk, hike or cycle, camp, experience<br />
our heritage <strong>and</strong> feel at one with the natural<br />
world <strong>and</strong> its primordial divinity.<br />
But there are other gods in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, the<br />
deities <strong>of</strong> many faiths, <strong>and</strong> representatives<br />
<strong>of</strong> the peoples that have come to <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
over the last 7,000 years. Near Waterloo,<br />
on <strong>Trinidad</strong>’s west coast, the largest murti<br />
outside <strong>of</strong> India honours Hanuman, the<br />
monkey god <strong>of</strong> Hindu mythology. Adjacent<br />
to it is the ornate Dattatreya m<strong>and</strong>ir,<br />
housing other Hindu shrines <strong>and</strong> idols.<br />
The colossal murti is the masterpiece,<br />
from its exquisitely manicured toenails,<br />
up past the massive legs, barrel chest, <strong>and</strong><br />
firmly upraised h<strong>and</strong>, the monkey face <strong>of</strong><br />
Hanuman stares in stately grace across the<br />
Caroni Plains, eighty-five feet above us.<br />
Not far away, the historic Hindu m<strong>and</strong>ir<br />
in the sea, is symbolic <strong>of</strong> <strong>and</strong> a tribute to<br />
the religious devotion <strong>of</strong> a single man,<br />
who many thought was crazy when he was<br />
building it.<br />
From high above, a small troop <strong>of</strong><br />
capuchin monkeys stare curiously down<br />
at us. The forests <strong>of</strong> the Bush Bush wildlife<br />
sanctuary resonate to the desolate, distant<br />
roaring <strong>of</strong> a troop <strong>of</strong> red howler monkeys.<br />
Nearby, the Nariva Swamp trills to the<br />
delicate piping <strong>and</strong> whistling <strong>of</strong> hidden<br />
frogs. And all around, within touch, within<br />
sight, sound <strong>and</strong> smell, are the shrubs<br />
<strong>and</strong> saplings, vines <strong>and</strong> lianas, the many<br />
trees <strong>of</strong> this specialist community that is<br />
a part <strong>of</strong> the largest freshwater wetl<strong>and</strong><br />
in the Caribbean. The best way to see<br />
<strong>and</strong> underst<strong>and</strong> it is from a kayak, silently<br />
gliding the narrow waterways, past lilies<br />
<strong>and</strong> sedges, papyrus <strong>and</strong> grasses, wild<br />
sugar apple <strong>and</strong> swamp bloodwood.<br />
Dragonflies dart <strong>and</strong> skim, fish leap <strong>and</strong><br />
birds are everywhere. On Bush Bush, the<br />
monkeys fall silent as a black hawk hunts<br />
above the canopy.<br />
With its patchwork <strong>of</strong> environments,<br />
wetl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>and</strong> plains, hills <strong>and</strong> valleys,<br />
forests <strong>and</strong> grassl<strong>and</strong>s, <strong>Trinidad</strong> has the<br />
highest avian species diversity in the<br />
world. We go south, to the Sudama Steps<br />
to find Spotted Tody flycatcher, Red capped<br />
Cardinal <strong>and</strong> Green Kingfisher. Then to<br />
Chaguaramas in the northwest where the<br />
hike up Morne Catherine provides a cross<br />
section <strong>of</strong> forest birds—from toucans to<br />
tanagers <strong>and</strong> hermits to honeycreepers. In<br />
the northeast, in the village <strong>of</strong> Cumuto, the<br />
Aripo Savannah hosts Red-bellied Macaw,<br />
White-tailed Goldenthroat <strong>and</strong> Sulphury<br />
Flycatcher.<br />
Head to Central <strong>and</strong> take an evening<br />
boat trip through the narrow channels <strong>and</strong><br />
open lagoons <strong>of</strong> Caroni Swamp, to watch<br />
the Scarlet Ibis winging their way to their<br />
roosts, where they perch like vermilion<br />
jewels against the darkening green <strong>of</strong> the<br />
mangroves.<br />
The northeast coast <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong>, with its<br />
extensive forests, is home to the <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
Piping guan or Pawi–the only species <strong>of</strong><br />
bird endemic to <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong> <strong>and</strong> a<br />
favorite sighting for birders. We overnight<br />
at Gr<strong>and</strong>e Rivière to be ready for the predawn<br />
walk to their habitat.<br />
But Gr<strong>and</strong>e Rivière has another claim to<br />
fame. From March to August, its beach is<br />
alive with giant Leatherback Turtles. This<br />
gently curving stretch <strong>of</strong> s<strong>of</strong>t s<strong>and</strong>, less<br />
than a kilometre in length, has the highest<br />
measured density <strong>of</strong> nesting leatherback<br />
turtles in the world. Local community<br />
groups actively protect the turtles at<br />
Gr<strong>and</strong>e Rivière, Matura <strong>and</strong> Fishing Pond,<br />
<strong>and</strong> an after-dinner tour from Port <strong>of</strong> Spain<br />
to Matura will probably see you back in<br />
bed by 1:00 a.m., your mind still marveling<br />
at the magically mystical experience <strong>of</strong><br />
watching an activity ongoing since the age<br />
<strong>of</strong> the dinosaurs.<br />
But come to the beach in the bright light<br />
<strong>of</strong> day, <strong>and</strong> it is humans who dominate the<br />
experience, warmed by the sun, cooled by<br />
the sea <strong>and</strong> caressed by the s<strong>and</strong>. From<br />
the long straight shores <strong>of</strong> the eastern<br />
Atlantic coast to the remote bays <strong>of</strong> the<br />
north, lapped by the Caribbean Sea, there<br />
are beaches to suit all tastes, from pristine<br />
to developed. The most popular, less<br />
than an hour’s drive from Port <strong>of</strong> Spain, is<br />
Maracas, its broad b<strong>and</strong> <strong>of</strong> golden s<strong>and</strong><br />
protected by forested headl<strong>and</strong>s. All find<br />
a place on the beach, the young <strong>and</strong> the<br />
old, the active <strong>and</strong> the lethargic; people<br />
are running, walking, sleeping, sunbathing,<br />
talking, eating <strong>and</strong> drinking, swimming <strong>and</strong><br />
surfing <strong>and</strong> just plain liming!<br />
Amerindians from the Orinoco, came<br />
to <strong>Trinidad</strong> from 5000 BCE, <strong>and</strong> since the<br />
fifteenth century, Europeans, Africans,<br />
Indians <strong>and</strong> Chinese, Syrians <strong>and</strong><br />
Lebanese have arrived on our shores. They<br />
all blended in a mixture <strong>of</strong> vigour to create<br />
a unique, vibrant culture <strong>of</strong> beauty <strong>and</strong><br />
talent, producing original music, innovative<br />
cuisine <strong>and</strong> colourful art.<br />
The gourm<strong>and</strong>’s culinary journey can<br />
begin at Maracas beach with shark <strong>and</strong><br />
bake, where the highlight is the optional<br />
extras, a lexicon <strong>of</strong> local salads <strong>and</strong><br />
seasonings. This will keep you satisfied<br />
along the circuitous mountain roads to<br />
Port <strong>of</strong> Spain <strong>and</strong> the suburb <strong>of</strong> St, James.<br />
Here you can get roti, a mixture <strong>of</strong> curried<br />
vegetables <strong>and</strong> meat, wrapped in a “skin”<br />
<strong>of</strong> dhalpuri. And if you are liming until<br />
early morning, try the optional breakfast <strong>of</strong><br />
doubles, available on many a street corner.<br />
They are made from two small flatbreads<br />
called baras covered with well-seasoned<br />
channa (chick peas). But you do not have<br />
to only eat on the street. Port <strong>of</strong> Spain has<br />
numerous restaurants to suit all budgets<br />
<strong>and</strong> palates. Indeed, it would require a stay<br />
<strong>of</strong> many weeks to try them all.<br />
To burn <strong>of</strong>f all those calories, join the<br />
morning joggers circumnavigating the<br />
Queen’s Park Savannah. The l<strong>and</strong> was<br />
purchased in 1816 for the people <strong>of</strong> Port <strong>of</strong><br />
Spain. Initially a pasture for cattle, it soon<br />
became the home <strong>of</strong> horse racing <strong>and</strong> a<br />
ground for local <strong>and</strong> inter-colonial sports.<br />
The Savannah is the first <strong>and</strong> largest<br />
recreation ground in the West Indies,<br />
nestled beneath the sun-bathed hills <strong>of</strong><br />
the Northern Range it continues to this day<br />
to provide a beautiful <strong>and</strong> relaxing space<br />
for formal <strong>and</strong> informal sports, runners,<br />
walkers <strong>and</strong> lovers.<br />
Port <strong>of</strong> Spain is our capital city, dominated<br />
by the tower blocks <strong>of</strong> the waterfront<br />
overlooking the Gulf <strong>of</strong> <strong>Paria</strong>. Just inl<strong>and</strong> is<br />
the main commercial area, an eye-catching<br />
blend <strong>of</strong> old historic buildings <strong>and</strong> modern<br />
construction, where the lunchtime limers<br />
can relax on the broad tree-lined Brian<br />
Lara Promenade, or stroll between <strong>and</strong><br />
beneath the jets <strong>of</strong> the brilliantly designed<br />
new fountain between the wharf <strong>and</strong> the<br />
70<br />
The <strong>Ins</strong> & <strong>Outs</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong>