f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
f Paria - Ins and Outs of Trinidad & Tobago 2013
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<strong>Tobago</strong><br />
experience<br />
Birds <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
by Martyn Kenefick<br />
Rewrite the geography books—the<br />
twin isl<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong> are<br />
“part <strong>of</strong>” South America. Parts <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
were geologically attached to mainl<strong>and</strong><br />
Venezuela as recently as 10,000 years ago<br />
<strong>and</strong> its sheer wealth <strong>of</strong> flora <strong>and</strong> fauna is<br />
decidedly South American in flavour. Just<br />
look at our birdlife—our two small isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />
have hosted no less than 470 different<br />
species <strong>of</strong> bird, <strong>of</strong> which approximately 230<br />
are resident here <strong>and</strong> one—the <strong>Trinidad</strong><br />
Piping Guan (Pawi)—is endemic; found<br />
nowhere else on earth. As a consequence,<br />
the ornithological authorities consider our<br />
isl<strong>and</strong>s Neotropic as opposed to Antillean.<br />
Both isl<strong>and</strong>s are ideal for bird watching,<br />
sharing an extensive road network, large<br />
tracts <strong>of</strong> rain forest, accessible freshwater<br />
marshes <strong>and</strong> mangrove swamps together<br />
with <strong>of</strong>fshore isl<strong>and</strong>s teeming with<br />
seabirds. With such habitat diversity, it is<br />
quite possible to find up to 100 species <strong>of</strong><br />
birds on any given day.<br />
Our forests are ablaze with colour, from<br />
the blues, yellows, reds <strong>and</strong> greens <strong>of</strong> our<br />
Trogons, to the iridescent feathers <strong>of</strong> our<br />
seventeen species <strong>of</strong> humming bird. Each<br />
evening, boat loads <strong>of</strong> visitors moor up<br />
inside the Caroni swamp in <strong>Trinidad</strong>, to<br />
witness small green isl<strong>and</strong>s turn bright red<br />
as flocks <strong>of</strong> Scarlet Ibis, our national bird,<br />
come into roost. Flamboyant birdlife even<br />
reaches the centre <strong>of</strong> Port <strong>of</strong> Spain when<br />
parties <strong>of</strong> Orange-winged <strong>and</strong> Yellowcrowned<br />
Parrots fly in to sleep in the treelined<br />
avenues. Many birds enriched by<br />
dazzling colour are shy by nature. Not so<br />
in <strong>Tobago</strong>, where Blue-crowned Motmots<br />
<strong>and</strong> Rufous-tailed Jacamars regularly visit<br />
hotel gardens.<br />
As distinctive as the colour is the variety<br />
<strong>of</strong> sound—from the unique “hammerhitting-an-anvil”<br />
call <strong>of</strong> the Bearded Bellbird<br />
to the eerie guttural shrieks <strong>of</strong> Oilbirds<br />
in our forests. From the bubbles, gurgles<br />
<strong>and</strong> trills <strong>of</strong> the Crested Oropendola (or<br />
“Cornbird” as we call it here) in our parks<br />
<strong>and</strong> gardens to the onomatopoeic calls <strong>of</strong><br />
the Great Kiskadee in our suburbs—the<br />
noise <strong>of</strong> birds is everywhere.<br />
Even the names <strong>of</strong> our birds are exotic;<br />
Magnificent Frigatebird to Red-billed<br />
Tropicbird; Pearl Kite to Ornate Hawk-<br />
Eagle; Ruby-topaz Hummingbird to Whitetailed<br />
Goldenthroat.<br />
Hundreds <strong>of</strong> bird watchers from all<br />
over the world visit <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
annually, some as individual tourists, but<br />
most with organised bird-watching tour<br />
companies. Indeed bird eco-tourism is<br />
becoming a vital revenue source for the<br />
isl<strong>and</strong>s. At both Asa Wright Nature Centre<br />
in <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> Cuffie River Nature Retreat<br />
in <strong>Tobago</strong>, there are practical eco-lodges<br />
located in the heart <strong>of</strong> “bird l<strong>and</strong>.”<br />
From these bases, every one <strong>of</strong> our<br />
prime bird-watching areas can be reached<br />
with a little more than an hour’s drive.<br />
For the average bird watcher, there is<br />
little strenuous hiking necessary. Birds<br />
themselves are plentiful <strong>and</strong> most watching<br />
is from quiet roadsides or well-appointed<br />
trails. By contrast, for the serious enthusiast<br />
who wants to get well <strong>of</strong>f the beaten track<br />
to find the shyest denizens <strong>of</strong> the forest,<br />
specialised tour guides can be found on<br />
each isl<strong>and</strong>. However, one rule applies to<br />
all: To get the most out <strong>of</strong> each excursion,<br />
it is best to leave as early in the day as<br />
possible. By late morning, it can become<br />
exceedingly hot <strong>and</strong> birdlife quiets down<br />
dramatically—birds enjoy a siesta as well.<br />
From the mid-afternoon, activity builds<br />
up once more with the race to find the<br />
sustenance they need to last throughout<br />
the ensuing twelve hours <strong>of</strong> darkness.<br />
Not all <strong>of</strong> our birds sleep at night. In<br />
<strong>Trinidad</strong>, most parks <strong>and</strong> even suburban<br />
gardens carry the monotonous call <strong>of</strong> the<br />
Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl (or “Jumbie bird”<br />
to the average Trini). Across the water,<br />
many <strong>of</strong> the country roads in <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
become the launching platform for Whitetailed<br />
Nightjars, gliding this way <strong>and</strong> that,<br />
in search <strong>of</strong> nighttime flying insects.<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> our “night birds” are extremely<br />
secretive. The spectacular Spectacled<br />
Owl in <strong>Trinidad</strong> is more frequently heard<br />
than seen, while the cryptically plumaged<br />
Striped Owl in <strong>Tobago</strong> is so rarely spotted,<br />
it is almost mythical. But then, finding the<br />
unusual or the difficult to see is one <strong>of</strong> the<br />
main goals <strong>of</strong> bird watchers worldwide.<br />
Blue-crowned Motmot<br />
Rufous-tailed Jacamar<br />
Stephen Broadbridge (2)<br />
The <strong>Ins</strong> & <strong>Outs</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>Trinidad</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Tobago</strong><br />
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