A55 - Pesda Press

Sport Climbs
Michael Doyle
J16
J16a
Penmaenmawr
J17
J20
Conwy Colwyn
J15a
Llanfairfechan
J18
J19
Bay
J21
Llanddulas
A55
J22 J23 J23a
2nd edition
North Wales Rock Climbing

Sport Climbs
Michael Doyle
J16
J16a
Penmaenmawr
J17
J20
Conwy Colwyn
J15a
Llanfairfechan
J18
J19
Bay
J21
Llanddulas
A55
J22 J23 J23a
2nd edition
North Wales Rock Climbing

First published 2010
Second edition 2011
First published in Great Britain 2010 by Pesda Press
Tan y Coed Canol
Ceunant
Caernarfon
Gwynedd
LL55 4RN
© Copyright 2010 Michael Doyle
Maps based on © OpenStreetMap www.openstreetmap.org
(and) contributors, c c-b y-s a www.creativecommons.org
ISBN: 978-1-906095-33-8
The Author has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs
and Patents Act, 1988, to be identified as Author of this Work.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,
without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Printed and bound in Poland. www.hussarbooks.pl

Contents
Acknowledgements 5
Introduction 7
The crags 8
Grade comparison chart 9
Using the guide 10
Sport climbing 10
Equipment 10
Grades 10
Bolts 11
Lower-offs 11
Groups & top roping 12
Access & conservation 12
North Wales Bolt Fund 13
Dyserth area Crags 15
Ty Newydd 16
Upper Crag 17
Main Crag 18
Dyserth Castle Slab 20
Dyserth Waterfall Crag 22
Meliden Quarry 27
Gop Cave Bouldering 30
Llanddulas Cave 33
Forgotten Sun Area 35
The Upper Cave Area 38
KO Wall 43
Golf Ball Wall 44
The Tower 48
Castle Inn 51
Fine View Wall 56
The Lost World 57
Wilderness Wall 58
Bantam Wall 58
Tiger Lilly Wall 59
Penmaen Head 61
Penmaenrhos Wall 64
Flowstone Wall 66
Red Wall 68
Quarry Wall 68
Wen Wall 68
Railway Tunnel Wall 69
Expressway Wall 70
Trench Wall 73
Greybeard’s Wall 74
Sector Arêtes 76
Sector Piss-take 77
NOTICE BOARD CRAG 78
Penmaenbach Quarry 81
The Lower Quarry 84
The Upper Quarry 86
The Gallery 89
Lower Crag 92
Upper Crag 96
Craigiau Cigfran 99
Hounds Area 100
Great Wall Area 100
The Last Waltz Area 101
Diplomatic Area 101
The Histories 102
Dyserth Area 102
Llanddulas Cave 104
Castle Inn 105
The Gallery 105
Penmaen Head 107
Trench Wall 109

4
Ryan McConnell on the superb
Vegas Nights (F6c+) The Tower.
Photo Michael Doyle

5
Acknowledgements
Many people have assisted with this guide with freely given advice,
feedback and with establishing new routes and sharing information. I am
deeply indebted and this guide could not have been produced without them.
My apologies if I have missed anyone.
In alphabetical order; Ian Andrews, Dave Bathers, Andy
Boorman, Mike Burrows (for new routing and much
assistance at Penmaen Head and Penmaenbach Quarry),
Tommy Chamings, Norman Clacher (perennial activist
and my main co-developer at Penmaen Head), Glyn
Davidson, Chris Doyle, Angela Findlay (for draft document
review, general support and great roast dinners utilising
organic pork), Colin Goodey, Francis Gowling, Mike
Hammill, Pete Harrison, Perry Hawkins, Guy Keating,
Martin Kocsis, Alan James, Elfyn Jones – British
Mountaineering Council Cymru access officer (for
reviewing the crag access notes and providing the
main access and conservation notes), Margaret Lally,
Dave Lyon, Bonny Masson, Simon Panton, Chris Parkin
(N. Wales Bolt Fund), Dave Prendergast, Lee Proctor,
Mick Ryan, Tony Shelmerdine (local guru and general
historical database for comment and advice throughout
and checking the draft document for accuracy), Richard
Wheeldon, Pete White, Sarah Woodhouse (for taking the
time to minutely check the draft document for grammar).
Thanks to Rab Carrington and Steve Long for feedback
on The Gallery. For The Gallery’s makeover, feedback,
general assistance and photos, thanks are due to; Paul
Evans, Mark Hounslea, Dave Kells, Nadim Siddique,
Kevin Stephens and particularly Colin Struthers who
has been most helpful. Thanks are also due to all those
who submitted grade suggestions and other comments
and those members of Clwyd Mountaineering Club who
assisted with a clean up at that venue. Many thanks to
Franco Ferrero and Peter Wood of Pesda Press who had
faith in the project.
Thanks also to the many climbers who have had the vision
and energy to establish new routes (very often financed
with their own funds) in the area – without them …
2n d edition
Dave Ashman, Andy Boorman, Nick Bullock, Mike
Burrows, Danny Cattell, Sam Cattell, Neil Crud, Mike
Devlin, Jenny Doyle, Colin Goodey, John Hodgson,
Paul Ingram, Elfyn Jones (British Mountaineering
Council Cymru access officer, for assisting with access
negotiations for the Dyserth Area Crags), Margaret
Lally, Ryan McConnell, trusty assistant Susan Molyneux
(who actually seemed to enjoy being dragged around
seemingly innumerable crags), Chris Parkin and the
continued support of the North Wales Bolt Fund, Ria
Roberts, Colin Struthers, Harold Walmsley (for Trench
Wall route descriptions and for checking the topos), Mark
Ward, Dave Williams.
A further special thank you to co-activists: Norman
Clacher and Tony Shelmerdine for much assistance and
information along the road – but now it’s time to get
stuck in to those new crags! Finally, a special, special
thank you to Chris Doyle for The Gop bouldering
section, Llanddulas Cave and Dyserth Area Crags
recent history, much information, advice and many route
descriptions; also for producing a batch of such inspiring
and difficult routes – I’m not sure where he gets his talent
and motivation from but it isn’t me!

6
Sam Cattell padding up Llywelyn ap Gruffydd
to Neil Crud (F6b-) Dyserth Castle Slab.
Photo Michael Doyle

Introduction
7
Introduction
After the publication of the first edition of A55 Sport Climbs and the explosion
of activity in developing Penmaen Head, together with new routes at
Llanddulas Cave and Castle Inn in the two years prior to its publication in May
2010, it may have been expected that things would settle down for a while.
Not a bit of it! In fact the opposite has happened and there has been a frenzy
of activity over a twenty month period from January 2010, with a small core
of local activists being very busy in developing new areas along with new
crags and routes in existing areas.
The result is that the 163 routes in the first edition have
been supplemented with a further 117 new routes in this
edition, 18 boulder problems and no fewer than 14 new
crags or sectors!
The crags in the Dyserth area were first to be given
the treatment starting with the exceedingly fine Ty
Newydd – a great venue for those operating at F6b and
above. Attention then focused on the lovely Dyserth
Waterfall Crag with a good selection of worthwhile
F5s contrasting with some testing big roofs on the river
side. Dyserth Castle Slab was developed offering some
unusual and long limestone slab lines. The Gop bouldering
cave as well as the established venue of Meliden
Quarry have also been included. Meanwhile, back at
Penmaen Head, a number of very worthwhile routes
have been established at a new area – Trench Wall.
Attention focused on the Llanddulas Cave area with
the development of three entirely new crags. Some
big, quality lines on The Tower were bagged whilst
KO Wall and Golf Ball Wall provided a number of
worthwhile short climbs. New routes were established
at Llanddulas Upper Cave including a couple of major
routes across the roof of the big cave amongst others.
A late entry was Craigiau Cigfran with what has
been touted as the “best sport route in N. Wales” by
one pundit along with some other good lines. Coming
full circle, Colin Goodey re-discovered Castle Inn for
new routing and added some much needed lower grade
routes at a new sector, The Lost World, over fifty years
after he first climbed there. Another couple of small,
slabby walls were also developed resulting in Castle Inn
becoming a complex of crags.
More than ever, the area stands as a viable venue in
its own right and although not challenging Snowdonia,
Anglesey and the Ormes, it complements them rather
than just being a second best wet weather alternative.
It’s a fun area; there is much good climbing here, much
that is new and it will repay full day visits as well as
dipping in and bagging a few routes on the way back
from Anglesey or Snowdonia. Scoring highly on the
accessibility front, the convenience of sport climbing and
the quality of the routes, its popularity is assured.

8 Introduction
THE CRAGS
Ty Newydd
Rock: Natural limestone.
Aspect: South facing, sheltered.
Grades: F6b - F8a+
Routes: 16
Dyserth Castle Slab
Rock: Quarried limestone.
Aspect: South facing, sheltered.
Grades: F3 - F6b+
Routes: 7
Dyserth Waterfall Crag
Rock: Natural and quarried limestone.
Aspect: South east/west facing, sheltered.
Grades: F5 - F8b
Routes: 16
Meliden Quarry
Rock: Quarried limestone.
Aspect: West facing, sheltered.
Grades: F4 - F6b
Routes: 6 + 9 boulder problems.
Gop Cave Bouldering
Rock: Natural limestone.
Aspect: South facing, sheltered.
Grades: V3 - V11
Problems: 9
Llanddulas Cave
Rock: Mainly natural but some quarried limestone.
Aspect: North west/north east facing, sheltered.
Grades: F5 - F8b
Routes: 73 in 5 sectors.
Castle Inn
Rock: Natural limestone.
Aspect: South facing, exposed.
Grades: F4+ - F7b+
Routes: 37 in 7 sectors.
Penmaen Head
Rock: Natural limestone.
Aspect: West facing, usually sheltered.
Grades: F5 - F7b+
Routes: 60 in 7 sectors.
Trench Wall
Rock: Quarried limestone.
Aspect: North facing, usually sheltered.
Grades: F6a - F6c+
Routes: 14 in 3 sectors.
Notice Board Crag
Rock: Mountain rhyolite.
Aspect: North west facing, exposed.
Grades: F6b, F7a+ and E3, E5.
Routes: 4 (2 sport, 2 trad).
Penmaenbach Quarry
Rock: Quarried microdiorite.
Aspect: North west facing, usually sheltered.
Grades: F5+ - F8a
Routes: 13 in 2 sectors.
The Gallery
Rock: Natural and quarried microdiorite.
Aspect: North west facing, exposed.
Grades: F6b - F7b+ and 1 E5 6b.
Routes: 25 in 2 sectors.
Craigiau Cigfran
Rock: Natural microdiorite.
Aspect: North west facing, exposed.
Grades: F6a - F7c
Routes: 7 in 4 sectors.

Introduction
9
UK ADJECTIVAL UK TECHNICAL FRENCH
Scrambling
grades end here 1
M
D
VD
2
3
S
HS
VS
HVS
4a 4
4b
5
4c
5+
5a
E1
5b
6a
6a+
E2
5c
6b
6b+
6c
E3
6a 6c+
7a
E4
E5
6b
7a+
7b
7b+
7c
E6 to E10
6c 7c+
8a
8a+
7a
8b
8b+
8c
7b
8c+
7c
9a
8a

10 Introduction
Using the guide
All the information is presented in a consistent way with
the first line of a route description containing all the key
information. For example:
• 6 Udder Head 1
6 15m F6a
‘6’ in the red circle is the route number on that sector and
will correspond to the numbers on the topo (the colour
gives a visual indication of the grade band, see page 9).
Udder Head is the route name. One star is an indication of
quality on a system where no stars may be a worthwhile
route and three stars is an exceptionally high-quality route.
The ‘6’ in a hexagon informs you that there are six bolts
on the route (only given where I have been able to make
a precise count). 15m tells you that the route is 15 metres
in length (only included where it has been measured accurately).
All the routes in the book are under 25m, except
for a few on The Gallery and Notice Board Crag which
are up to 35m long (see: Equipment). The number of bolts
also gives a rough indication of length. Finally, F6a is the
French grade (UK adjectival and technical grades are
given for trad routes and A grades for aid routes).
Sport climbing
It is beyond the scope of this guide to provide instruction
in sport climbing. However, the two most critical areas
are the initial part of the route prior to clipping the first
couple of bolts and lowering off, so a couple of tips may
be useful.
Before the leader starts off, the belayer should establish
him or herself near to the rock and in a position so that
the leader does not have to step over the rope once
started. The belayer should allow a lot of slack ready for
clipping the first bolt – there is no point keeping the rope
snug if it’s not clipped into anything. Once the leader has
clipped the first bolt then the belayer should keep slack
to a minimum to minimise the chance of an early ground
fall by the leader. This should continue until the second
bolt is clipped or preferably the third, then the belayer
can move away from the rock and allow reasonable slack.
When threading the lower-off, make sure you are
attached to the rope at all times at your belay loop with
a screwgate karabiner. Do not shout “safe”; you aren’t.
“Safe” is the signal for the belayer to stop belaying and as
you are at the top of the route then it could be that is the
last thing you want. Thread the lower-off methodically
and then check everything. Finally, weight the rope
before unclipping from the lower-off. That will
confirm that you are actually on the end and that your
belayer isn’t waiting for you down the pub.
Equipment
A 50m single rope will suffice at all locations other than
The Gallery, Notice Board Crag and Great Wall
(Craigiau Cigfran) when 60m (70m for one route at
The Gallery) is essential for some routes. Ten quick
draws will, almost always, be more than sufficient, but
as many as 15 are occasionally needed at The Gallery.
In addition, it is wise to carry a couple of screwgate
karabiners and a narrow sling. Wearing a helmet is very
desirable, not only because of the risk from stone fall
but more importantly, to avoid head damage caused by
turning upside down in a fall.
A useful technique to avoid being turned upside
down in a fall is to try to keep the rope in front of
your leg (avoid allowing the rope to run behind)
whilst you climb. This will minimise the chance of
your leg becoming hooked on the rope. When moving
up on lead, let the rope run in the joint between your
foot and ankle as much as possible, thereby keeping
it at the front.
Grades
All sport climbing grades given are French grades. It does
not seem to be commonly understood in the UK that the
French grading system considers the overall difficulty of

Introduction
11
the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves
and the length of climb. This differs from most grading
systems such as the British technical grade where a
pitch or single pitch route is rated according to the most
difficult section (or single move). In the French system
grades are numerical, starting at F1 (very easy) and are
open-ended. In this guide book, consistent with common
practice, routes of F5 or under may be sub-divided with
+ or − while routes graded 6 and above are subdivided
by adding a letter (a, b or c) and + or − may be used to
further differentiate difficulty.
Grades throughout are believed to be accurate and where
possible this has been based on independent feedback.
The same applies to route quality ratings. As always they
are subjective and no doubt will give rise to some healthy
debate – part of the richness of climbing. It should be
noted that virtually all the routes in this guide are worth
doing and the absence of a star does not necessarily
indicate that a route is poor. For the second edition the
great majority of routes have been reviewed in line with
feedback with regard to grades and quality ratings and
many changes have been made, almost always of a
subtle nature. Consequently it is hoped that the grades
and quality ratings presented in this edition better reflect
a consensus for the vast majority of routes. It should be
noted that many of the new routes (especially on the new
crags) have had very few repeats, if any, and a consensus
has not been available in many cases to confirm grades
and quality. It also takes time for a route to settle in and
there may still be the odd loose hold or poor rock on
some new routes so care should be exercised. Feedback
on any issues is welcome: mjdoyle1@yahoo.com.
Bolts
A mixture of bolts have been used throughout the area,
the type used being largely dependent on when the
particular venue was developed and who was doing the
work. These include ‘glue-ins’ (DMM, Fixe and staples)
and ‘through expansion bolts’ with hangers (Fixe and
Petzl). Both systems have advantages and disadvantages
Eco bolt, Petzl with stainless steel hanger
and a marine grade stainless steel bolt.
in installation but hangers are less kind to karabiners
in actual use and cannot be used to lower off from
directly. The glue-ins have been fixed with either dual
component resin from cartridges or, more recently, spin-in
self-contained resin capsules. Both methods are well
proven. Stainless steel glue-in bolts and hangers have
been used throughout. It has been noted that some of
the studs securing the hangers on a very few older routes
have a discoloured look to them. This may be surface
corrosion or even just discolouration but should be treated
with caution. Hangers fixed with stainless steel bolts (as
at The Gallery) have lasted extremely well. The number
of bolts on a route (where known) has been identified
throughout (see: Using the guide).
Lower-offs
Virtually all of the routes in this guide have full loweroffs
fitted in the form of rings, large maillons, clip-ins or
karabiners. Some lower-offs are already showing signs
of wear, especially where they are shared by routes. Even
stainless steel wears. Replacing lower-offs costs money,
someone has to give up their climbing time to do it and it
is largely avoidable.
Please, therefore, use your own quick-draws for
lowering off as much as possible (last person
threads) to minimise wear.

12 Introduction
Groups & top roping
Easily accessible lower grade sport climbs such as
those at Penmaen Head and Castle Inn often attract
groups from outdoor centres and groups of beginners.
Unfortunately, this often leads to the monopolisation of
certain routes as a line of people wait to try a route on
a top rope. It also means that those routes are likely to
become polished far more quickly than otherwise and, if
your own quickdraws are not used, that the lower-offs
will wear more quickly and need replacing. This can be
unreasonable. The problem of beginner groups being
top-roped on some of the sport climbs in this guide while
wearing mountain or walking boots is also an issue. This
is an inappropriate practice on sport routes and can
quickly lead to damage and polishing. If beginners are
at a stage where they are wearing big boots then there
are plenty of alternatives on trad crags with Diffs and V.
Diffs which are far more suitable for this activity without
affecting established sport routes.
Please be aware of the needs of others; remove ropes
that are not in use and avoid popular climbs at busy
times. Fortunately, the selfish continental practice of
leaving ropes and quickdraws in place on a route while
going off to try another route or to have lunch has not yet
taken hold in Britain. The wear and tear that climbs are
suffering is a growing problem. If you must visit the crags
in a large group, please consider other climbers and try
to avoid monopolising classic climbs which are likely to
get the most traffic anyway.
Access & conservation
(Provided by the BMC Cymru access officer)
Many of the climbing sites along the A55, especially
the limestone cliffs, are designated as Sites of Special
Scientific Interest on account of the flora and fauna that
is found on the calcareous grasslands that are associated
with the limestone outcrops along this part of the North
Wales coast. The designations give legal protection to
these sites, which include Castle Inn and Llanddulas
Cave, and climbers need to be aware that gardening and
Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve at Castle Inn,
home to the Silver Studded Blue Butterfly (below).
Photo iStockphoto.com
cleaning activities at these sites could be deemed illegal
under the Wildlife & Countryside Act. Climbers are asked
to be sensible and discreet in opening new routes in
these areas, and to take account of the special features
and vegetation on these cliffs.
The cliffs (and in particular caves on the cliffs) are the
breeding and roosting sites for bats, which also have
very strong legal protection. If you come across bats in
crevices on the rocks, avoid disturbing them and give
them a wide berth. If disturbed during the hibernating
season they would probably die from the cold very quickly.
If you do encounter any access problems, then please
do not antagonise the landowner or other organisations,
but refer the issue to the British Mountaineering
Council’s Access & Conservation officers at the BMC
Wales office (p 01690 720124) or the Manchester office
(p 0161 445 6111).
The BMC Regional Access Database is an excellent

Introduction
13
resource for up-to-date crag access information;
www.thebmc.co.uk/bmccrag
All land is owned by somebody and the inclusion
of a venue in this guide does not imply that you
have a right to go there. There are no known
access issues at any of the venues in this guide
but climbers have an obvious vested interest in
acting responsibly. This includes responsible parking,
taking your litter home (and other people’s),
respecting Sites of Special Scientific Interest
(SSSIs) and generally keeping a low profile.
Sanitation
We all have to ‘go’ somewhere – but please try to ‘go’
before going climbing. Toilet paper and faeces are all too
common at continental sports crags, an unsightly health
hazard which is sure to upset landowners. Most of the
venues in this guidebook are close to villages and towns
where there are public toilets. Please try to use them
rather than the nearest tree or boulder!
Parking issues
Many access problems are caused by parking, especially
at sites that suddenly become popular due to redevelopment
works. Always park considerately; avoid blocking
gateways and driveways, or causing an obstruction. This
is especially important for groups using minibuses or
larger vehicles. Wherever possible, try to share transport
to minimise parking problems and also reduce your carbon
footprint (it’s also cheaper if your mate pays for the fuel).
North Wales Bolt Fund
Many thanks are due to Chris Parkin who administers
the fund and who was always quick to help out with
gear for the redevelopment of Llanddulas Cave,
Penmaenbach Quarry and The Gallery. He was also
very supportive in providing bolts for the additional crags
in the second edition. Contributions to the NWBF will be
made from any profits from this edition of the guide, as
was the case with the first edition. The NWBF relies on
donations from the climbing community and companies
associated with climbing. Bolts cost money and stainless
bolts a lot more. Drills, resin and static ropes all eat
away at the donations so it needs constantly topping up.
If you have enjoyed the routes in this guide (or even if
you haven’t!) then please consider making a donation to
the North Wales Bolt Fund and support your sport.
Donations can be sent to: NWBF, Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg,
Glyn Garth, Menai Bridge LL59 5NU or collected at:
V12 – Llanberis, Joe Browns – Llanberis & Capel Curig,
The Beacon Climbing Wall and The Inde Climbing Wall.
Cheques should be made out to: North Wales Bolt Fund.
Climbing is potentially dangerous
You might die or be very seriously injured. In all
cases you are responsible for the decisions you
make and your own judgement and no responsibility
can be accepted for the way you use this guide.
Rock can break and bolts, although extremely
unlikely, have been known to come out. The route
descriptions and grades are given in good faith
and believed to be as accurate as possible but
essentially it is your judgement which counts. It
is a very bad idea to climb unless you have had
previous instruction and are fully familiar with
the techniques and equipment used.
The author, publisher and distributors of this
book do not recognise any liability for injury or
damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties,
or property arising from such persons seeking
reliance on this guidebook for their own safety.

72 Trench Wall
Colin Struthers on Neither
Mickling or Muckling (F6b+).
Photo Michael Doyle.

Trench Wall
73
1km
J22
OLD COLWYN
Penmaen
Head
Trench Wall
Highland Rd
1 mile
J23
active
quarry
LLANDDULAS
Trench Wall
Tan y Graig Rd
active
Castle
quarry
Inn
Craig y
Forwyn
This is the obvious long quarried wall that runs parallel with the A55 and
about 100m away from it between Junctions 22 and 23 (Llanddulas and Old
Colwyn) of the A55. It has a north facing aspect and doesn’t look very inviting.
However, the rock is much better than it looks from the A55 and the routes
are suprisingly good so it should justly attract climbers operating in the F6a to
F6c+ grade range. All routes are equipped with stainless steel bolts, hangers
and double ring lower-offs.
The crag lies below and roughly at right angles to the
recently developed crags at Penmaen Head and is
considerably taller than it appears from the road because
of a shrub-filled trench that runs along the base of the
crag. Being north facing, it barely sees the sun which
makes it a viable venue to escape the heat on hot
summer days. It tends to be subject to seepage from the
top after prolonged or heavy rain and particularly during
the autumn and winter months. In the summer the sun
leaves the crag at about 9 a.m. and returns about 7 p.m.
The route descriptions have been provided by Harold
Walmsley (many thanks to him for them, and for checking
the photo topos).
Access Restrictions
The quarry owner is not known although it may be owned
by the same people as Penmaen Head as it was the
main part of the old Penmaenrhos quarry. Initially, there
were access issues when the development was reported
to the police who subsequently indicated that, as there
are no vegetation or bird issues, they have no interest in
the matter. The county council apparently owns the field
in front of the trench through which the public footpath
runs from the Penmaen Head parking lay-by to the
Rainbow Bridge over the A55.
Approach
From the Penmaen Head parking, take the footpath
down past the sectors and continue down towards
the sea via some steps. The Trench Wall sectors are
approached by descending into the trench from the open
area of grassy field that separates the crag from the A55.
The right hand end and Sector Piss-take soon reveals
itself just beyond an area of rock covered with wire mesh.
From the left, the first sector, Greybeard’s Wall, is the
area of mainly grey rock that lies directly behind a small
but prominent boulder in the grass field. The left hand
part forms a broad convex pillar seamed with shallow
grooves and has a prominent crack towards its right hand
side. The right hand part is a slabby concave wall with a

74 Trench Wall
wide brown streak near its top right hand corner.
The second sector, Sector Arêtes, lies right of
Greybeard’s Wall after a set of broken grassy grooves
and corners. Somewhat predictably, it contains a series
of arêtes of which two are particularly distinctive. The
left hand of these starts about half way up the crag and
has a slim borehole right up its nose. The right hand one
GREYBEARD’S WALL
From left to right the routes are:
• 1 No Fool Like an Old Fool 0
FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 26.08.10
6 22m F6b
Takes the groove system at the left end of Greybeard’s
Wall. Gain the groove via a short wall and climb it to an
awkward exit. Move up to a ledge on the right then make
a difficult move into the upper groove which is climbed
more easily. Start below the groove.
• 2 Grey Pride 0
FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 27.07.10
7 22m F6b-
A good route up a series of shallow grooves 3m right of
the previous route. The rock is solid apart from a hanging
flake at about 6m which should be treated carefully.
Climb the groove, skirt the flake via the scoop on its left
and move up left into the upper groove. Continue up this
with interest. Start in a groove below the hanging flake.
• 3 White Magic 2
FA H. Walmsley 12.08.10
8 25m F6c
A superb and complex route up the nose of the pillar right
of Grey Pride. Gain the faint groove left of the borehole
and climb it to big, flat holds. The groove directly above
contains loose-looking blocks so traverse into the scoop
on the right and exit it just left of the obvious brown
niche to continue up a tiny pillar. Where this fades, move
leftish and gain the shallow groove above to exit up its
left wall to below a continuation groove. Climb the right
wall of this and exit left to the Grey Pride lower-off. Start
below a shallow groove just left of a borehole in the
steep wall immediately right of Grey Pride.
has a right leaning crack in its right hand side that may
be the most striking feature on the entire crag. A blunt,
slightly retiring buttress lies between the two arêtes.
The third sector, Sector Piss-take lies right again and is
the first section of clean, climbable rock on approaching
from Penmaen Head. It encompasses a flowstone face
on the left and a quarried area on the right which the
obvious crack line of Attila the Hen follows.
• 4 Thin on Top 1
FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 21.08.10
7 22m F6a
Breaks out left from the obvious crack and corner to
climb the left-facing groove in the upper wall just right of
the previous route. Climb the lower right-facing groove to
a large flat hold at 6m. Move left round the arête into the
scoop of White Magic (1 bolt on White Magic is used).
Exit the scoop via the obvious niche and follow the upper
groove to a smooth finish. Start at the prominent crack
and right-facing corner about 3m right of White Magic.
• 5 Trench Warfare 0
FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 09.09.10
7 22m F6a+
Takes the prominent crack and groove that runs the full
length of Greybeard’s Wall. Some devious moves
and awkward clips. Start as for Thin on Top (1st 2 bolts
shared with this route) to the flat hold at 6m (or use
the pillar just to the right) then continue directly up the
groove with interest.
• 6 The Shield 1
FA H. Walmsley, C. Struthers 31.08.10
6 22m F6b
Climbs the grey shield in the upper half of the crag just
right of the obvious crack and groove. Climb the right
wall of the groove to a slabby area and gain a ledge
on the right of the overlap above. Pass the next small
overlap at its right end to gain the base of the shield.
Move up left onto the shield and climb its right edge by
awkward moves between good edges. Then make hard
moves up the centre of the shield to the finishing jugs.
Start right of the crack of Trench Warfare at a shallow
groove and just right of a number of overhangs.

Trench Wall
75
• 7 Billy Liar 1
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.08.10
7 20m F6a+
Takes the middle of the slabby bay. Balancy climbing on
good rock to an interesting finish. Well bolted and harder
than it looks. Gain a short groove, move diagonally right
with interest and continue up past two small brown
streaks to gain the shallow right-facing groove that
separates the upper part of the convex pillar from the
concave wall. Climb the groove until deteriorating rock
forces a steep move right to the lower-off. Start 6m right
of the crack line of Trench Warfare below vague grooves.
• 8 The Ambrosian Federation 1
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.08.10
6 20m F6a+
Gains and climbs the shallow flake/groove in the upper
wall just left of the prominent brown area at the top
right-hand side of the wall. Climb the slabby wall to the
groove, gain the flake/groove and follow it to a steep
finish. Start under a couple of small overhangs 3m right
of route 6.
• 9 Neither Mickling nor Muckling 1 7 22m F6b+
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 26.08.10
Takes a shallow groove low down, gains the wide brown
streak from directly below and finishes just right of a
prominent prow in a steep and pumpy fashion. Gain
the groove, climb it to ledges on the right and move up
awkwardly to good footholds below the brown streak.
Move up it and make a long move right to a big flat hold
on the right. Swing right and climb via a borehole to the
lower-off. Start below a shallow groove directly below
the wide brown streak.
4
1
2
3
7
8
9
5 6

76 Trench Wall
Sector Arêtes
For the first two routes descend into the Trench, walk
along the bottom for a few yards then up the bank.
From left to right the routes are:
• 1 Only a Girl 0
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 31.08.10
7 20m F6b+
Takes a line left of the arête with the borehole in its
upper half. Move up left to ledges then move around the
blunt rib to the right and climb its right side with difficulty.
Climb diagonally left then traverse left round the arête
keeping below (and off) the undercut flake, which seems
unsupported. Move easily up to the open groove just left
of the borehole arête and climb it via a hard move onto a
big foothold. Move up and reach right to the lower-offs.
Start directly below the arête with the borehole.
• 2 Ugly Duckling 1
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 27.07.10
6 20m F6b+
Takes the groove/flake/crack line right of the arête. Move
up towards the corner on the right then veer back left to
gain the main groove via a flake crack. Climb the groove
and follow the flake/crack line until forced right via
difficult moves past a prominent flat hold. Move back left
to finish. Start on the right arête of the groove.
The next two routes are on the second arête
immediately opposite the descent into the trench:
• 3 Insurrection 1
FA C. Struthers, H. Walmsley 21.06.11
9 20m F6c+
Takes the obvious crack line left of the arête. There is a
hands-off rest a third of the way up but from there it tends
to be somewhat ‘goey’. Start at the bottom of the crack.
• 4 Riot 2
FA C. Struthers 12.08.10
8 20m F6c+
Good climbing up the very prominent crack in the right
side of the arête, escalating to an excellent, difficult and
bold finish. Start from the foot of the arête.
1
2 3 4

Trench Wall
77
1
Over to the right again and the first sector reached
from the approach is:
SECTOR PISS-TAKE
• 1 Attila the Hen 1
FA M. Doyle, M. Lally 07.09.10
5 F6b
Takes the obvious crack line and is more ledgy than it
looks from afar. Climb to a resting ledge just before the
puzzling but well protected crux. Start immediately below
the first bolt from the cleaned ledge below the crack and
step right into the crack.
The author on the first
ascent of Attila the Hen (F6b).
Photo Alun Ward.

Ty Newydd
Dyserth Castle Slab
Dyserth Waterfall Crag
Meliden Quarry
Gop Cave Bouldering
Llanddulas Cave
A55
Sport Climbs
These twelve sport climbing crags and
a bouldering venue between Junctions
16 and 23 on the A55 are all a short hop
from the expressway, only 1½ hours
from Manchester and ¾ of an hour by
car from Llanberis and Gogarth. Easy
route finding, technical climbing, and
bolted routes makes for a fun day out.
It’s a great way to bag a few routes
on the way back from Anglesey or
Snowdonia or enjoy a full day of varied
and fun climbing with short walk-ins.
Castle Inn
Penmaen Head
Trench Wall
Notice Board Crag
Penmaenbach Quarry
The Gallery
Craigiau Cigfran
Featuring:
• 280 routes from F3 to F8b
(including a handful of trad).
• Accessible single pitch sport
venues with varied aspects.
• Short walks from the car and
accessible by rail and bike.
• 59 full colour photo topos.
New in the 2nd edition:
• 117 new routes.
• 18 new boulder problems.
• 6 new crags.
• 8 new sectors.
ISBN 978-1-906095-33-8
10000
• Gogarth
J16
J23
• Conwy
• Llanberis
9 7 8 1 9 0 6 0 9 5 3 3 8
Cover: Chris Doyle on Temple of Gloom (F8b),
The Upper Cave Area, Llanddulas Cave.
Photo: Ray Wood