comparative test: watches with unitas pocket watch caliber

COMPARATIVE TEST: WATCHES WITH UNITAS POCKET WATCH CALIBER 

62 WatchTime February 2002

Pocket to Wrist 

Sturdy and reliable, the 

Unitas pocket watch caliber 

has become an increasingly 

popular choice for hand-wound 

wristwatches. WatchTime’s 

RÜDIGER BUCHER tested 

three models powered 

by this the movement. 

February 2002 WatchTime 63


Above: On the movement 

side of the Chronoswiss 

caliber C 672, you 

can easily see the large, 

brass-colored transfer 

wheel. This wheel engages 

with the pinion of 

the center arbor, which is 

located beneath the additional 

bridge. 

When a watchmaker wants to show a layman how a mechanical 

movement functions, he often pulls out a Unitas pocket 

watch caliber 6497 to serve as the classic example. This caliber 

has all of the essential rudimentary components, with no complications 

or a rotor, or even a date disk to obscure your view. The flow of energy 

from the barrel through the center-wheel, third-wheel, fourthwheel, 

escape-wheel, and all the accompanying intermediate gears, is 

readily visible here in what you might call its "primordial" form. Even an 

unpracticed eye finds it relatively easy to comprehend the workings of 

the device. In recent years, ever since large-format wristwatches have 

once again become popular, the caliber 6497 or 6498 which was originally 

conceived for pocket watches has been cropping up inside an 

ever-greater number of wristwatches. 

Anyone who owns a watch with a glass back can readily observe 

what happens when the watch is wound: the crown-wheel turns, propelling 

the large toothed wheel affixed to the barrel (known as either 

the "winding-wheel" or the "ratchet-wheel") with which the crownwheel 

meshes; at the same time, the little nosepiece of the click prevents 

the winding-wheel from slipping 

When a watchmaker backwards. After these wheels have 

turned through a few rotations, the 

wants to show a layman 

balance begins to move. It soon finds 

how a mechanical movement 

works, he 

pace of five beats per second – a speed 

its rhythm and settles into a steady oscillation, 

rocking back and forth at a 

that is typical of this watch-movement, 

but rather leisurely compared to 

often pulls out a 

hand-wound Unitas pocket 

watch caliber. 

the speeds of balances in other movements. 

If you look very carefully beneath 

the balance’s rim, you can even 

find part of the lever, whose little feet 

– technically known as "pallets" – tirelessly catch and release the teeth 

of the escape-wheel so that the entire clockwork advances at the correct 

speed and the fourth-wheel requires exactly one minute to rotate 

once around its own axis. 

With a diameter of 36 millimeters, the Unitas caliber is larger than 

many finished watches. Its generous dimensions have predestined it for 

Left: The Chronoswiss 

watch, its 

two wristbands 

and a little container 

full of spare 

parts are all delivered 

inside a spiffy 

presentation case 

An extra-large 

crown protrudes 

far from the case 

and contributes 

to the distinctive 

look of the 

Timemaster. 


service inside big, bold watches that emphasize good legibility and 

clear-cut designs. Furthermore, the caliber’s large size contributes to 

the stability of its rate. 

Gerd-Rüdiger Lang of Chronoswiss chose this movement for his new 

Timemaster, a giant watch (44 millimeters) with a correspondingly giant 

crown that immediately commands attention. As is typical of Lang’s creations, 

the Timemaster is less a watch than a work of art, one based 

DATA PAGE 

CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 

Manufacturer: Chronoswiss Uhren GmbH, 

Elly-Staegmayr-Strasse 12, D-80999 

Munich 

Model: Timemaster 

Reference number: CH 6233 

Functions: Hours, minutes, central "sweep" 

seconds hand. 

Movement: Hand-wound Chronoswiss caliber 

C. 672 (base caliber Unitas 6497-1); diameter 

= 36.6 mm; height = 5.4 mm; 18 jewels; 

18,000 beats per hour; Glucydur beryllium 

screw balance; self-compensating Nivarox 1 

balance-spring; Incabloc shock absorption; 

swan’s neck fine regulation; 50-hour power 

reserve (approx. 2 days, as indicated by the 

circled numeral "2" on the dial); plate with 

circular graining on both sides; bridges with 

Geneva Waves; stop-seconds function; each 

movement is individually numbered. 

Case: massive, 22-part, brushed and polished 

stainless steel case; fluted bezel rotates without 

intervening notches in two directions and is 

marked with a Superluminova triangle; brushed 

case edge; screwed tube for the extra-large, 

onion-shaped crown; screwed strap lugs; 

patented Autobloc system; matte-black metal 

dial; luminous Superluminova C3 material on 

the hour-hand, minute-hand, numerals and indices; 

antireflective sapphire crystal; fully threaded 

screw-in back with antireflective viewing 

window; water-resistant to 10 atmospheres 

(100 meters). 

Wristband and clasp: Black crocodile-skin 

wristband; rapidly opening and closing clasp; 

wristband’s ends are reinforced with inner 

metal clips; pronged buckle; extra-long 

cowhide strap delivered along with the watch. 

Results of running test (deviations in 

seconds 24 hours): 

With/without switched on chronograph function 

Dial up: +4 

Dial down: +4 

Crown up: +3 

Crown down: –2 

Crown left: +5 

Greatest deviation of rate: 7 

Average deviation: 3 

Average amplitude of the balance: 340° 

Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm; 

height = 12.3 mm; weight = 101 grams 

(130 grams with professional wristband). 

Variants: Also available with luminous dial and 

black hands. 

Price: $3,750 

upon a logical and comprehensive concept. 

Conceived as an "outdoor" watch, it’s equipped 

with an extra-long cowhide strap of the sort 

found on old-fashioned deck-watches, so that 

the wearer can strap the watch to the outside of 

his jacket’s sleeve. People who prefer a more 

civilian look can easily remove the big cowhide 

strap and replace it with a very well crafted black 

crocodile-skin wristband. The watch and both 

straps are delivered inside a gorgeous box escorted 

by a little canister that’s filled with vital 

components: three insulators for the crown’s 

pipe and another one for the case back, as well 

as a second winding-stem and a spare balancestaff, 

just in case a nasty blow should happen to 

break the original ones. There’s also an extra 

mainspring, which is nice to have around if your 

clumsy gloved fingers should accidentally overwind 

the original mainspring until it snaps (not 

likely). Whether or not the typical Timemaster 

owner would dare to subject his watch to such 

extreme conditions is debatable, but the fact remains 

that so much practical attention to detail 

is a source of pleasure. Lang has thought of absolutely 

everything. For example, the straps are 

equipped with elaborately crafted quick-switch 

clasps that make it child’s play to change the 

wristbands. All you need to do is exert a bit of 

pressure and snap them into the lugs. This very 

convenient solution comes at a price, however: 

the ends of the strap, which are reinforced with 

metal clips, have a fairly large amount of play. 

Now and then they tend to get jammed. And 

frequent interchanging subjects them to a lot of 

wear and tear, which threaten to decrease the 

longevity of these excellently crafted wristbands. 

Although the crown is large and protrudes 

uncommonly far from the edge of the case, you 

shouldn’t fear for its safety. Its pipe is firmly 

screwed to the case, which gives it plenty of 

strength. If it should accidentally break, it can 

readily be replaced. Furthermore, three O-ring 

insulators are fitted directly onto the pipe: this 

not only improves the watch’s resistance to penetration 

by water or dust, but also mean that the hands move especially 

smoothly when the crown is turned to adjust their positions – a very 

pleasant experience indeed! 

It was only logical to opt for the caliber 6497 as the motor for such a 

large and nostalgic wristwatch with such a prominent crown. Lang refined 

the original caliber by adding a swan’s neck fine regulation mechanism 

and decorated the caliber’s surfaces with various ornamental engravings. 

But that’s not all: he also made some 

interesting structural modifications. Because he 

wanted his Timemaster to offer the best possible 

legibility, Lang wasn’t interested in the small 

seconds subdial that this Unitas caliber typically 

supports. A cleverly constructed "detour" 

For everyday, indoor 

use: crocodile-skin 

wristband with 

pronged buckle and 

the Chronoswiss 

logo (above). 



mechanism transforms the small seconds subdial into a central 

"sweep" seconds-hand. To accomplish this modification, the caliber is 

equipped with an additional transfer wheel between the fourth-wheel 

and the pinion of the center-wheel. Propelled by the pinion of the thirdwheel, 

the transfer wheel rotates once every 7 1/2 minutes. It meshes 

with the pinion on the fourth-wheel’s staff, to which the seconds-hand 

is affixed. The other end of this staff is seated in an additional bridge; its 

pivot rotates in an 18th jewel (the unmodified 6497 has only 17 jewels). 

To ensure that the seconds-hand runs smoothly and without flapping, a 

friction spring, which presses the transfer wheel upwards, is installed 

DATA PAGE 

MAURICE LACROIX MASTERPIECE 

Manufacturer: Maurice Lacroix, 

Brandschenkestraße 2, CH-8039 Zurich 

Model: Masterpiece Jour & Nuit 

Reference number: 07769-1602 

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds; day 

and night display. 

Movement: Hand-wound ML caliber 07, base 

caliber Unitas 6498-2; diameter = 36.6 mm; 

height = 5.6 mm; 17 jewels; 18,000 beats per 

hour; Glucydur screw balance; Nivarox 1 

balance-spring; Nivaflex 1 mainspring; Incabloc 

shock absorption; fine regulation; handdecorated 

with concentrically circular 

engraving, sun pattern and blued screws; 

no stop-seconds function. 

Case: Stainless steel and 18-karat yellow gold; 

sapphire crystal above dial; sapphire case back; 

sterling silver dial; blued hands; water-resistant 

to 3 atmospheres (30 meters). 

Wristband and clasp: Hand-sewn crocodileskin 

wristband with pronged buckle. 



With/without switched on chronograph function 

Dial up: 0 

Dial down: +4 

Crown up: +2 


Crown left: +5 





height = 9 mm; weight = 73 grams 

Price: $2,950 

Maurice Lacroix 

uses the Caliber 

6498, which is built 

in a hunter-style 

construction. 

Very well crafted: the handsewn, 

crocodile-skin wristband 

and the clasp with the 

ML logo. 

By opting not to include a threaded, 

screw-in case back, Maurice Lacroix 

achieved a strikingly slender height 

for the Jour & Nuit. 



beneath the bridge. Unlike the movements in the other models that 

we’ll discuss later in this article, this Chronoswiss caliber is the only one 

with a stop-seconds function. This useful feature makes it easier to precisely 

set the watch. It can also be used to stop intervals of time to the 

second. The mechanism that supports the central seconds-hand is very 

sweet indeed, but there’s a drop of vinegar in the honey: the hand itself 

is not coated with luminous material. The hours and minutes are readily 

legible in the dark, but the owner will have to forego the pleasure of 

measuring nighttime intervals with to-the-second accuracy. Lang explains 

that he opted not to equip the seconds-hand with luminous material 

because the hand itself is so slender and because glow-in-thedark 

coating would have made the seconds-hand so heavy that it 

would no longer have run smoothly. For people who insist upon 100% 

legibility at all times, a version of the Timemaster is available with the 

dial completely coated with Superluminova, similar to watches used by 

submarine crews. The black hands, numerals and indices contrast clearly 

against the brightly luminous background. 

At Maurice Lacroix too, the watchmakers weren’t content to use 

the standard Unitas caliber without making a few changes of their 

own. The 6498 is built in so-called "savonnette" or "hunter" style, 

which means that the seconds stand at right angles to the crown. The 

people at Maurice Lacroix have modified the 6498 so that the hourwheel 

rotates only half as fast as it ordinarily does. Because it has twice 

as many teeth, it requires 24 hours to rotate once around its own axis. 

The result is a watch with an aesthetically successful 24-hour display. 

It takes some time to get used to it, but once you’ve grown accustomed 

to its face, you’ll be able to read it easily and instantly. The 

hour-hand extends in two directions from its central axis. One end 

bears a tiny sun, the other carries a little moon for the nighttime hours. 

The semi-circular hours scale spans the upper half of the solid silver 

dial and runs from 6 to 6. For example, when the sun-tipped end of 

the hand points to the 8, it’s eight o’- 

clock in the morning; if the moontipped 

end is above the 3, it’s three 

The dimensions of the 

Unitas (36 mm) have predestined 

it for service in- 

o’clock in the morning. At six p.m., 

when the sun is leaving the 6 on the 

right-hand end calibrated scale, the 

side big, bold watches 

moon is simultaneously arriving at the 

6 on the left-hand side. 

that emphasize legibility 

The design of the Masterpiece Jour 

and clear-cut designs. 

& Nuit (French for "day & night") differs 

radically from the design of the 

other two candidates. This watch isn’t 

meant to look sporty or to cope with rough blows. Aesthetics and 

style are the paramount factors here. The bicolor case with the solid 

gold bezel, the little onion-shaped crown with the golden cap, and 

above all the elegant design of the dial are the principal ingredients 

that combine to create the typical Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece look, 

which invariably suggests horological complications. The snap-on 

glass back helps to keep the watch beautifully slim and invites you to 

admire the movement, which boasts individually blued screws, goldplated 

faux chatons, and concentrically circular engravings on the 

bridges and cocks. The depression milled into the plate to accept the 

balance has been embellished with an attractive sun pattern. The 

watch makes do without bridles because the movement fits snugly inside 

the case, all the way to the edge, where it’s held in place from behind 

by a pair of little screws. The screw balance oscillates at the standard 

pace of five beats per second. 

Panerai has made no structural modifications in the Unitas caliber. 

Nonetheless, the movement inside the Luminor Marina has some special 

attractions all its own. Whereas the majority of brands that use 

the Unitas 6497 or 6498 opt for the 

The Chronoswiss Timemaster 

is the only one of the 

caliber in its best-known form (with 

an oscillating rate of 18,000 beats per 

hour), Panerai chose the variant with 

three with a stop-seconds the speedier oscillation of 21,600 

beats per hour. In general, a fasterpaced 

balance tends to produce a 

function – a useful feature 

watch that runs at a more stable rate. 

that makes it easier to precisely 

set the watch this is the only one of our test candi- 

And a stable rate is essential, because 

dates that has been officially 

C.O.S.C.-certified as a chronometer. 

In our test on the Witschi timing machine, 

the Panerai watch outdid its competitors, albeit only by a nose. 

It was interesting to see that the caliber with 21,600 beats per hour 

showed the same characteristics as the one with 18,000 beats. Like 

the Chronoswiss and Maurice Lacroix timepieces, the Luminor Marina 

slipped into the "minus" ballpark when tested in the "crown down" 

position. And like its two competitors, the Panerai watch ran fastest 

ahead in the "crown left" position. The average amplitude (320°) remained 

relatively high, although not quite as high as in the other two 

models. 

The extravagance of the case’s design continues in the finissage of 

the movement. Rather than opting for classical Geneva Waves, the 

bridges and cocks are decorated with the word "Panerai" in a repetitious 

scheme that’s reminiscent of the one used by Cartier with its characteristic 

"C." Gold-plated faux chatons and blued screws round out 

the picture which, unfortunately, remains largely hidden to the casual 

observer because there’s no viewing window in the twelve-sided, 

screw-in back. 

Although Panerai cautiously approached the new launch in 1993 

and, after its takeover by the Richemont Concern, has partly focused its 

attention on limited-edition watches, the timepiece that’s colloquially 

known as "The Panerai" quickly established itself as a cult watch. In the 

watch’s Italian homeland, as well as in many other countries around the 

world, numerous fan clubs have been formed. Watch-lovers who join 

these clubs supply one another with detailed information about the science 

and technology embodied in current and historical models, and 

also draw up tables describing all of the models that Panerai ever produced. 

It was in 1936 that Mussolini commissioned the Florentine firm 

of Officine Panerai to produce highly (or rather "deeply") water-resistant 

watches for the Italian navy. In addition to being suitable for underwater 

use, Il Duce’s list of specifications also insisted that the watch- 



es offer optimal legibility, both in the dark and underwater. The hands 

and dials of the earliest Panerai watches were coated with strongly radioactive 

materials. These were soon replaced with less radioactive but 

nonetheless luminous tritium, and the 

name was correspondingly changed Because it has twice as 

from Radiomir to Luminor. 

many teeth, the Maurice 

The contemporary models combine 

the historical frogman myth with Lacroix’s hour-wheel requires 

24 hours to rotate 

urbane Italian elegance. This newly 

elegant role coincides with the delivery 

of a natural brown calfskin wristband 

along with the more military- 

once around its own axis. 

looking rubber strap. Because the The result is a 24-hour 

strap lugs are screwed, a tiny watchmaker’s 

screwdriver is delivered inside 

display. 

the lacquered cherry wood box. 

Before pulling out the crown to adjust the hands, you must first release 

the safety lever and pivot it open. It’s also a good idea to release 

the lever before winding the watch. When the lever has been returned 

to its closed position, the crown is pressed about two millimeters 

Panerai has hidden its beautiful, chronometer-certified movement 

beneath a steel back. 

DATA PAGE 

PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA 

Manufacturer: Officine Panerai 

Model: Luminor Marina 

Reference number: PAM 00001 

Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds. 

Movement: Hand-wound base caliber Unitas 

6497-2; diameter = 36 mm; height = 4.5 mm; 

21,600 beats per hour; 17 jewels; 41-hour 

power reserve; monometallic smooth-rimmed 

Glucydur balance; Incabloc shock absorption; 

decorated with "PANERAI" insignia; no stopseconds 

function; tested chronometer with 

C.O.S.C. certificate. 

Case: AISI 316 steel, polished; domed 3.5-mmthick 

antireflective sapphire crystal; black dial; 

hands, numerals and indices are all coated with 

tritium; crown with locking lever; screw-down 

back; water-resistant to 300 meters; tested to a 

maximum of 400 meters depth. 

Wristband and clasp: Brown calfskin with 

pronged buckle. 



Dial up: 2 

Dial down: 1 

Crown up: 2 


Crown left: 5 





height = 16.8 mm; weight = 135 grams 

Special features: The model is also available for 

left-handers with its crown beside the "9." 

Price: $2,700 

The Luminor Marina 

can be recognized 

by the prominent 

protective lever 

that covers the 

crown. You need to 

unlatch the lever 

before you can set 

the watch’s hands. 

Sleek elegance: the 

Panerai wristband 

is made of natural 

brown calfskin. 


deeper into the case. This additional pressure makes a significant contribution 

to the watch’s ability to resist penetration by water: it’s water-resistant 

to 30 atmospheres. The slightly domed sapphire crystal is 

likewise crafted for deep submersion: it’s fully 3.5 millimeters thick. 

Although the no-nonsense Panerai looks quite massive, it’s relatively 

lightweight and quite pleasant to wear on its leather wristband. The 

case is painstakingly crafted: although it’s entirely without sharp edges, 

it’s nonetheless clearly structured. Unfortunately, the glass overlaps a 

wee bit. If you’re puzzled about the meaning of the letters and numbers 

on the case back, here’s the answer, reading from top to bottom: 

the identification number of the case; the serial number of the watch; 

the number in the annual production; and the maximal atmospheric 

pressure (or depth) to which the watch remains water-resistant. 

The clearly designed dial and the decision to do without a minutescircle, 

the hefty shape of the case, the obviously thick crystal, and last 

but not least, the distinctive locking lever over the crown struck a 

chord with watch-lovers when the Panerai was revived in the late 

1990s, and its continued popularity comes as no surprise. 

TEST RESULTS 

CHRONOSWISS TIMEMASTER 

Wristband and clasp (max. 10 points): 8 

Very good materials and craftsmanship; too 

much play in the band’s terminal inner clips; 

possibility of wearing out early. 

Operation (5): 5 

Optimal, even with gloves; setting the hands is 

an ultra-smooth experience. 

Case (10): 9 

Very high quality in all details, just as one 

always finds on Chronoswiss cases. 

Design (15): 13 

Unusual yet logical; successful combination of 

Chronoswiss design with the look of a deckwatch. 

Legibility (5): 4 

We decided to subtract one point because 

the seconds-hand lacks tritium. 

Wearing comfort (10): 8 

Good; the large crown scarcely interferes. 

Movement (20): 14 

Intelligently improved, large-series caliber 

with appealing embellishments. 

Results of running test (10): 8 

Good results with a very slight tendency to run 

fast. 

Overall value (15): 12 

Not inexpensive, but the price is justifiable for 

an extravagant watch with plenty of appealing 

extras. 

TOTAL: 81 points 

★★★★ 

MAURICE LACROIX MASTERPIECE 

JOUR & NUIT 


Very well crafted, fully padded crocodile-skin 

wristband with typical bicolor ML clasp 

Operation (5): Good operation; the crown isn’t 

very large. 4 

Case (10): 8 

Well crafted, slender construction; the holes 

for the strap’s crosspieces are drilled very close 

at the ends of the lugs. 

Design (15): 12 

Typically elegant Masterpiece design with a 

stylish aura. 


Takes some time to get used to, but after 

wards the owner can readily tell the time while 

the uninitiated remain pleasingly perplexed. 


Lies perfectly on the wrist; light weight and 

without any sharp corners. 


Technically modified pocket watch caliber with 

tasteful embellishment. 


Good, comparable with those achieved by the 

Chronoswiss watch. 


A little pricey, but a rather unusual design. 


★★★ 

PANERAI LUMINOR MARINA 


Strikingly wide wristband is sporty yet elegant. 

Operation (5): 5 

Simple and pleasant; locking lever is easy to 

open. 

Case (10): 8 

Massive and elaborately crafted, polished to a 

high-gloss finish. 

Design (15): 14 

Consistent, successful, readily recognizable; a 

trendsetter that will elicit admiration. 


It’s difficult to read the minutes with precision, 

but the dial is perfectly legible in the dark. 


The watch is large and hefty, but not as heavy as 

it looks; no sharp corners; a good fit on the 

wrist. 


Few modifications have been made to the 

Unitas base caliber; chronometer quality; 

idiosyncratic decorative embellishment. 


Similar to but slightly better than those achieved 

by the Chronoswiss and ML watches. 


An aficionado’s watch at an excellent price. 


★★★

comparative test: watches with unitas pocket watch caliber

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