May (4.4mb) - New Zealand Alpine Club

No. 761, May 2013
Vertigo
Newsletter of the New Zealand Alpine Club
Wellington Section
www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
www.facebook.com/nzacwellington
Fiordland dusk, Mike Buchanan
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Next Section Night
Sarah Wilson and Bridget Janse
Cook to Cook Challenge
Monday 13 May, 8 pm
Tararua Tramping Club, 4 Moncrieff St, Mt Victoria, Wellington
Sarah and the team - Bridget, Luke Wilson, Bronwyn Ward and Elise Vine – successfully
completed the Cook to Cook challenge in January 2013. The challenge was to climb Mount Cook,
cycle to Picton and then kayak across the Cook Strait. Come and hear Sarah and Bridget talk
about the challenges they faced along the way.
Club Nights: are at the Tararua Tramping Club clubrooms, on the second
Monday of every month. New and prospective members are welcome. Meetings
and talks start at 8.00 pm with club business and tea & coffee afterwards.
News
John Nankervis injured in fall approaching Mt. Awful
John Wild
Some of you may not be aware that John Nankervis (‘Nank’ to most of us) was seriously injured in
a climbing accident on Wednesday 27 March. Nank is a former President of the NZAC, a life
member of the Club and is the patron of Wellington Section.
Nank was in a climbing party with Paul Maxim, David Grainger and Sean Buchanan. The party
had jet-boated from Makarora at the head of Lake Wanaka up the Makarora River to the mouth of
the Young River. On Tuesday 26 March they followed the track up the Young, camping at about
1000 metres in the head of the valley. On the morning of 27 March they followed the track that
crosses the ridge near Gillespie Pass and continues down into Siberia Stream, a tributary of the
Wilkin River. At about 10 am they reached the point where the track crosses the ridge at about
1500m. After emptying their packs of unnecessary gear the party traversed along the ridge toward
their climbing objective, Mt Awful. After about half an hour on gently undulating tussock ground,
the party reached the point where the ridge narrows and becomes rocky, before it begins to climb
steeply and the real climbing would have begun.
The party were near the end of that narrow rock section when they came to an awkward rocky
block outcrop. They were sidling cautiously around this rocky outcrop, all within a few metres of
each other, in slightly different positions, looking for the easiest way through. Nank had moved
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into the lead, when he lost his footing. He fell, going out of sight of the others and coming back
into view still falling about 50 vertical metres below, before his fall was broken by a large rock.
The party immediately activated its emergency locator beacon. Dave Grainger and Sean
Buchanan abseiled down to Nank to administer first aid, while Paul stayed on the ridge to help
spot and direct the rescue helicopter.
Mt Cook rescue team picking Nank up from the upper headwaters of the Siberia Stream.
Nank had come to rest in an awkward position, legs uphill. As Dave and Sean approached they
could hear Nank’s voice and knew he was conscious. They ascertained that he did not have
feeling in his legs. Suspecting a possible spinal injury they decided not to move him. For the next
90 minutes until the rescue helicopter arrived, they tried to make Nank as comfortable as they
could, and to keep him warm with extra clothing and a foil blanket.
The rescue helicopter and Mt Cook rescue team arrived about two hours after the fall. Dave and
Sean helped the rescue team get Nank onto a stretcher and into the helicopter as directed by the
lead rescuer.
Nank was flown, initially to Queenstown, and then to Dunedin Hospital. From Dunedin he was
flown to Christchurch Hospital and admitted to the Intensive Care Unit.
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Nank was seriously injured in the fall. He broke his left forearm and his right wrist. He also broke
or fractured a number of ribs, with consequent bruising and damage to his lungs. More seriously,
he fractured vertebra in the cervical and thoracic areas of his spine. He sustained lacerations and
bruising all over his body, except those parts protected by his climbing helmet, boots and pack.
Almost needless to say, we all wish Nank a steady and complete recovery.
Lower photo: The accident site looking back toward Gillespie Pass.
Nank was eventually moved
from Intensive Care to an
orthopaedic trauma ward in
Christchurch Hospital. Then,
on 16 April, he was moved to
Burwood Spinal Unit.
As of Vertigo going to press,
Nank has recovered to the
point where he can breathe
himself, eat and speak. All the
injuries to Nank’s upper body
should heal. It will be some
weeks before Burwood can
give any prognosis about his
lower body – whether Nank will
regain the use of his legs. He
presently has no feeling in his
lower body and cannot move
his legs.
Since the accident Nank has
been supported and visited in
hospital by a group of close
friends, and this continues.
Nank remains very weak and is
unable to receive other visitors.
Mail to Nank can be sent the address below, please include your return address:
c/o Burwood Spinal Unit
CDHB
Private Bag 4708
Burwood
Christchurch 8140
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Trip Reports
Wellington Section Trip to Whanganui Bay
March 2013
Andrea Wiechern
It was with a small degree of apprehension that I set off for my first proper outdoor rock climbing
weekend and my first NZAC club trip. I’d climbed outside before, but that was in Titahi Bay, in the
rain - an experience that had put me off for almost a year!
Five of us set off (Dan Pringle, Karl Arndt, Anna Sintenie and Joke Meerkens), stopping for the
obligatory kebab in Bulls and negotiating a dry and pitted Whanganui Bay Road before arriving
late at the lakeside campground. This particular weekend was meant to be the NZ Rock Climbing
Festival, but it had been cancelled. Many groups still turned up anyway. We even found
ourselves a sixth man in Nathan, a former Wellington section member now in Tauranga.
We awoke at a leisurely time, sat on
tree stumps waiting for our percolator
coffee to brew, sussed out what other
groups were planning for the day and
then headed along the beach and
through the bush to Sunshine Buttress.
Here we warmed up and I brushed up
on my abseiling and belaying skills.
After climbing for so long indoors with
coloured holds marking the route, I
found it liberating being able to grab
any bit of rock I wanted. The pitashaped
pockets in the rock provided
perfect foot and hand holds. The heat
of the late March sun, the views over
the bush and across the shimmering
lake and the colour of the water in the
neighbouring bay made me wish I
could stay there and not go back to
reality.
The next stop was the ‘Wet Dreams’
wall, a respite from the sun, tucked
away under the trees. It wasn’t very
high, but had a nice crack. I’d never
climbed a crack before and really
enjoyed it. Nathan said it was the first
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time he had seen Wet Dreams devoid of water – not surprising due to the drought that had gripped
the North Island.
Lunch was spent on the beach watching two men fishing. It was as though we had stumbled into
a Mainland Cheese commercial, complete with fish leaping from the lake. Afterwards, we walked
the short distance to the Plateau and were fortunate enough to find three grade 17 routes beside
each other (Sporting Gesture, Forever Tuesday Morning and Piki Mai). The six of us swapped
around, climbing these longer and more foliage-decorated routes until late evening. I spent much
of the time trying to figure out what the source of a roaring noise was, until I spotted the waterfall
across the valley. As the air started to chill, we headed back to camp for dinner. We feasted on
an interesting mix of chips, wine, soup, curry, pasta and chocolate. It was meant to drop to five
degrees that night – a fact that excited me very much because it meant the snow would soon be
coming. To my disappointment, I don’t think it got that cold.
The next day we went back to Whekenui. Dan, Anna, Karl and Nathan set up some trad routes on
Lemon, Wedgewood, Sayonara and James Stirling Direct. We finished off with the Wellington
Womble Route. It was very dirty - full of weeds, moss, dirt etc but is now quite a bit cleaner. The
surprising late-March heat had us wading into the lake for a swim with the floating pumice, before
packing up for the long drive back to Wellington.
It was great to climb with such a fantastic group of people and I can’t wait to get out there and do it
all again. Do look out for the wasp nest by the scramble up to James Stirling Direct though the
wasps seemed pretty relaxed too, and none of us were stung.
Photo: Wellington Womble Route (16), Whanganui Bay
Fiordland Summer
Mike Buchanan
This past February I made a pilgrimage south to Fiordland and the Darran mountains. I had some
loose pre-arranged engagements with various characters and some vague plans which eventually
evolved into action. The weather was amazing and the right planets aligned and some rock was
climbed.
I’d wanted to climb Mitre Peak for a while, and this time I would get a go. It’s one of those peaks
that really stands out and just begs to be climbed. It’s all over post cards, art and books of NZs
nicest peaks.
I teamed up with stalwart Aussie gentleman Tim Chester and caught the boat across the fjord to
the toe of the East Ridge. After a good bush-bash we stumbled onto a vague track which improved
with altitude. The ridge is steep at first but gradually relents to an undulating line up and over the
Footstool. At about 1000m the bush eases to snow grass and then rock. We bivvied on a grass
shelf above the bush line, with a spectacular view of Milford Sound and the surrounding peaks.
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We got up early and scrambled upwards pulling on snow grass. Soon came “the notch” which is
where the exposure increases and some parties bail. From here, the ridge rises steeply, providing
brilliant scrambling and terrific relief on both sides. Soon I was on a spacious, friendly summit. It
was tempting to linger, but
we had a boat to catch and a
long way down. The altitude
drop is more like 2,000m due
to the undulating ridge.
Down we went into a daze of
dehydration. We had taken 7
litres of water between us
and had found nothing to
supplement this. For the final
500m we let gravity take over
and “floated” down using
trees to slow us. It was
amazing to finally reach
Sinbad creek and rehydrate.
Marian Peak
Next, I teamed up with Ivor Koo from Christchurch for some “prospecting” on the neglected NE
face of Marian Peak. To access this area we traversed over Barrier Peak to Marian Peak. We
settled into a spectacular bivvy on the summit of Marian and lounged around soaking up the view,
the atmosphere and food!
Next morning after a leisurely One Square Meal and coffee, we descended the East Ridge part
way and dropped into the Sabre/Marian gully via an abseil. After more down-climbing we began
prospecting and picked a line up a prominent buttress. The route began with 2 sketchy traversing
pitches to avoid the hideously vegetated terrain below. Once properly on the line, we climbed 4
pitches on good rock, with some interesting features including slabs, cracks and corners. We
topped out at our sleeping bags, which is a nice way to finish a climb. We named the route Gong
Show (Gong Show - climbnz.org.nz).
Moir’s Mate
Moir’s Mate is a sure bet in terms of delivering good 1 day multi-pitch routes from Homer Hut. Ivor
and I climbed Lucky Strike and then Finders Keepers on 2 separate days.
We had fun on both but Finders Keepers was especially good. This is a superb 10 pitch route on
stellar rock, going mostly on trad gear with the occasional bolt (2.5/pitch according to Murray Ball).
Thanks Craddock, Ball and Shotwell for putting up such a great line.
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Punks in the ‘piles, Wellington styles
Caroline Horrox
It’s a dubious indictment on a prospective Arapiles trip when one of the crew doesn’t fancy their
chances of clearing Aussie customs, another has to organise a mate to pick up their pension, and
the pre-trip training for several more consists of ‘extreeeme nappy changing’ and herding errant
tourists around icebergs.
Still, it’s amazing what dizzying heights can be achieved with a positive mentality (denial works
well). We had also assured our success by packing our high performance climbing attire (leopard
print flares, psychedelic tights and a possum fur chalk bag) and purchasing enough hard liquor in
duty free to sit out Armageddon.
The Easter Arapiles trip has become an erratically regular event every 2 to 3 years for a bunch of
us; a motley mix of ‘old school’ crack addicts, ‘newer school’ face climbing fiends and ‘wish I’d
gone to school’ wastrels who were only in it for the chicks and booze. Easter 2013 proved
consistent in all respects.
Organising gear with 12 people required military precision to ensure we had adequate numbers of
cookers, ropes, blow up dolls and racks etc. Mercifully for all, a strongly supported petition forced
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Mr Parker to leave his rack of original friends (purchased FROM Ray Jardine himself in the early
80’s) garage bound.
A strong nesting instinct resulted in a well-appointed campsite, expertly waterproofed through
some complex tarp rigging and complete with enormous logs, located by Chazz and rolled from
the other side of Victoria. Reclining deckchairs completed the picture. We also inherited a stray
Aussie, Brad, who politely declined the position of camp gimp, but still proved entertaining and
good climbing partner material, for an Aussie.
The campground was pretty
quiet for the time of year.
However true to form, come
Easter weekend, the
climbing population
exploded. Ahh, the dulcet
clank clank of hexes…
During this period, climber
density at the Organ Pipes
proved as thick as a New
Delhi market. I am certain
the place operates as the
‘Ber-bimblie Triangle’.
Climbing newbies from
around the world rack up, tie
on, and then woooosh,
teleport to the Organ Pipes
where they have a lovely
time sieging three star
classics. As part of this
experience it is important for
the climber to weave the
rope around as artistically as
possible. Multiple zigzags
get extra points. When they
reach the top, the leader
shouts down a chapter of
the ‘Lord of the Rings’ to
their belayer. Unfortunately,
this mostly proves
unintelligible.
Naturally, such inexpert behaviour afflicted none of our party. No one, for example, had to self
rescue by running back to camp to get torches due to benightment half way up a one-pitcher on
Morfydd wall, while their would-be rescuers nobly ventured off in the opposite direction to find
them. Turns out that having a watch at the crag is quite handy.
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A good dent was made in various people’s tick lists. The ‘Wenches in Trenches’ programme (NZ
section), had their work cut out for them after compiling a list based on a word search for routes
with descriptors such as “ominous hanging chimney” and “flaring slot thing”. Nick, aficionado of
awkward off-balance crack routes protected by RPs, also made a play to become an honorary
Wench with an ascent of the “deep curving outward flaring trench1”, the Wizard of Ice. His second
is still in therapy.
James managed an inordinate
amount of self control by resisting
the need to cook emergency
chops and sticking to his plan of
‘not going hard out on day one
and then spending day 5 onwards
totally spanked’. Meanwhile,
Joce, Rob and Chazz, who have
all been preoccupied with things
other than climbing for varying
degrees of eternity, managed a
happy balance of terror and
enjoyment that comes with
reacquainting oneself with the
vertical world.
‘Best Whipper’ award went to
Plungali Pande for the 12th year
running. The winning fall involved
a technically difficult knock to the
head by a pulled friend, followed
by a well-executed upside down
landing. True to form, this didn’t
keep her down for long.
Needless to say, Neil, “ man of
leisure” Hickman, 70 and
awesome, went hard out, and
seemed to have the least rest
days; even if his sometime climbing partner Brad did say “see you tomorrow!” to us all as they
marched off towards the day’s latest multi-pitch classic.
But it wasn’t all 6am starts at the crag and 200 point days (in fact, it never was). The Natimuk
‘Goat Fest’ held at Easter, kept everyone entertained with a medley of local and not so local short
films, curry and beer. Rest days were had polluting the Horsham pool and watching bad movies in
1 As described in Simon’s Mentz’s Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide
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the Cine-plex. After name dropping more climbing greats than a clumsy climber drops nuts, Mr
Parker proved more than just all talk by getting us all invited to the legendary and, as it turns out,
quite lovely, Louise Sheppard’s for a pot luck.
I know for a fact that certain individuals are already planning the next trip’s hit list. They don’t call it
Wellingtonian’s favourite local crag for nothing.
Thanks for a fab trip, kids:
Rob Jagermeister Camden, Joce Turnbull, Chazz Marriott, Caroline Horrox, Derek Richardson, Jo
Youthed, Neil Parker, Anjali Pande, Nick Brown, James Wright, Jana Kaeppler and Neil Hardcore
Hickman.
Photos: Joanne Youthed bridging for Jesus on The Hurricane Lamp Cracks (12) and Nick Brown
on the offwidth thrutchfest, Wizard of Ice (20)
NZAC ROCK MEET EASTER 2013 – UNWIN HUT
Nina Sawicki
Unwin Hut was bursting at its seams with “eager beaver” climbers and some novices over the
Easter break of this year. Murray Judge (a GP from Oamaru and one of the most prolific new route
developers in NZ) has done a magnificent job cleaning and bolting many routes on the Sebastopol
bluffs over the last few years, giving many hours of his time and virtually developing a new set of
crags.
In addition to the “meet”, there was an instruction course sponsored by NZAC and tutored by Dave
Brash which I signed up for in preparation for my climbing trip in Europe in July. Dave is a lithe
athletic man in his mid 60s who put a lot of us to shame as he led up routes like a spider in his
trainers. So the message is : keep climbing to keep supple and young!
The live-in Unwin caretakers Chas and Katrina put on a fabulous BBQ on the Saturday night and
spooked us with showing a film of the first ascent of the Eiger. The atmosphere was very
cosmopolitan with climbers from Germany, Czech Republic, Australia, England and all around
New Zealand
Despite the hut bursting its seams there was not too much crowding on the crags and apart from
the very popular multi pitch climb on Red Arête there were never any queues. Dave (with an
Alpine back-ground) had us out climbing by 8.00 am but the “latte-loving late breakfast fast rock
climbing sorts” ambled up to the crags late morning.
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My idea of paradise: morning walk to the crag with Sefton as a back-drop
On the one wet day of the weekend we headed out to Pukaki Boulder which is on the left side of
the road about 5 minutes as you hit the main highway. It is often dry there when raining at Mt
Cook.
The flags on the boulder on the left belong to the memorial to Gary Ball. For scale, the left boulder
is just over 2.5m high, and the right is 6m.
There are several other crags within walking distance of the Hut including Unwin Crag. Walk
behind Unwin Hut, cross the fence and take the narrow spur to the large rock about halfway up the
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hill. Stay below the rock and traverse to the clearings until well right of the crag before heading up.
There is now a marked track to Unwin Crag which takes about 15 minutes to walk.
We climbed Fringe Benefit, Whispering Grass and Pinot but alas did not have time for Secret
Squirrel so I am going definitely going back next year.
In addition this is a great place to go while waiting out the weather for those elusive Alpine Climbs:
go and enjoy!
See Kester Brown’s photo expose of the Sebastopol Bluffs in the latest Climber magazine
or online - .http://climber.co.nz/83/feature/sebastopol-bluffs-photo-essay
More trips
Send us your trip reports, and ideas for Section Trips to wellington@alpineclub.org.nz
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Notices
BANFF 2013
Back again - the superb Banff Mountain Film Festival returns to Wellington to fire up the depths of
winter. Two nights, two great programmes.
11th and 18th June, 7:30 pm
Paramount Theatre, 25 Courtenay Place
Book online at www.paramount.co.nz $19 NZAC members, $21 non-members.
For more details, see Wellington Section website:
http://www.nzalpine.wellington.net.nz/2013/04/banff-mountain-film-festival-2013-%E2%80%93-
programme/
Ruapehu Hut – Out of Bounds
The septic tank replacement work is about to commence up at Ruapehu Hut and therefore, the hut
is now strictly out-of-bounds to everyone except the contractor until they have finished. Authorised
club members will have access for site inspection only upon prior arrangement with the contractor.
https://alpineclub.org.nz/news/2013/ruapehu-hut-out-of-bounds-till-further-notice
Free boots!
John Rhodes has a pair of Koflach plastic boots to give away.
Size 11 with separate inner boot – 25 years old and a bit tatty but, the
price is right!
Contact John on 06 304 9095 or rhodesja@xtra.co.nz if you’re interested
in the boots. They are to be collected from John’s place in Greytown.
New NZAC Gold and Silver Membership Cards
In recognition of the special place our Life, Honorary and Veteran 50-year members hold in the
New Zealand Alpine Club, this year we have had gold and silver cards printed for these member
types.
Gold cards are being issued to our Life and Honoraries, while the silver is for our Veteran 50-year
members.
https://alpineclub.org.nz/news/2013/new-nzac-gold-and-silver-membership-cards
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A new Capital Expedition Fund Partner & Member Discount Offer
Splitn2.com will give members a 10% discount
online and donate 1% of the purchase price of
any product to the Expedition Capital Fund.
Members require a code to apply the discount
online. To obtain the code contact Narina, or
Margaret at National Office 03 377 7595.
Lenin Peak: Mountaineering Veterans' Festival 2013
Lenin Peak: Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan border
In 2013 the Pamir mountains are waiting for climbers to help celebrate the 85th Anniversary of the
first ascent to Lenin Peak, 7134m. The Festival is held within the annual programme of the Union
of Asian Alpine Associations. The Kyrgyz Alpine Club are pleased to invite you to join their
Veterans Festival to celebrate this event and enjoy various activities - ascent to Lenin Peak,
trekking, guided walks etc. Detailed information is available from
http://kac.centralasia.kg/index.php/projects/veterans-festival
climber.co.nz Forum for Hut Maintenance, etc
Don’t forget about the forum area on climber.co.nz that helps people keep in touch with each other
about hut work-parties, maintenance issues, etc:
http://climber.co.nz/forum/nzac-huts-lodges
When establishing a thread, please be very specific for example “Ruapehu Hut” would be too
broad, so a thread like “Ruapehu 16 Feb 2013 Working bee” would be more useful. In addition, an
initial email to all work-party members to advise them of any thread that involves them specifically,
will then establish a central point for all to be kept up-to-date.
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Wellington Section 2012/13 contacts list
We are always thankful for volunteers and members stepping forward to help the
section run smoothly. If you’d like to learn more about how you could get involved,
please email us at wellington@alpineclub.org.nz
Position Name Email alias* Phone
Chairperson Dan Pringle chairperson 027 768-2185
Vice Chair Vincent Zintzen vicechair
Secretary Bridget Janse secretary or CM2 04 293 6351 (h)
Treasurer Matt Knarston treasurer
National Rep
Patron
Dan Pringle
John Nankervis
Trips vacant Trips
Other Committee Members
Simon Williamson
Julian Davidson
John Yu
Other Roles:
Gear vacant gear
Personal Locator Beacons vacant PLB
Instruction Coordinator
Instruction - AIC
Instruction - Rock
vacant
vacant
vacant
Library Joke Meerkens library
Newsletter Editor Steve Minchin newsletter or SM
Rock Drill Overseer Kristen Foley drill or KF
Website John Yu webmaster
* Email address is: alias@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz eg. secretary@nzalpine.wellington.net.nz
Any membership, Distaghil Sar Fund, or general queries should be directed to the secretary
Any media queries should be directed to:
03 3777 595 National Executive Officer Sam Newton sam@alpineclub.org.nz
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If undelivered please return to:
NZAC Wellington Section
PO Box 1628
Wellington
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