Download ePaper

FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford

FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford

from wilkesbashford.com More from this publisher

12.11.2012 Views

��

��

��

FEATURES

4 Welcome Letter

6 Meet the Mitchells

16 Designers at Wilkes Bashford

18 Happenings

22 Clean Your Closet, Free Your Soul

24 Friends & Trends

42 Willie Brown on Wilkes Bashford

54 Buyers’ Guide to Florence

73 Top Ten San Francisco

FASHION

44 American Road Trip

60 Celebrate Life’s Most Precious Moments

64 Purple Reigns

74 What is Fashion?

80 The Power of Accessories

DEPARTMENTS

20 Ask Wilkes

41 Icon: From the Brioni Archives

56 Profile: Zegna

58 Food: From Farm to Fork

76 World Scene

78 Destinations: Cause Traveling

82 Spirits: Marvelous Mezcals

83 Essay: Italian Flair

84 At Your Service

Wilkes Bashford

375 Sutter Street

San Francisco

415.986.4380

450 Stanford Shopping Center

Palo Alto

650.322.7080

RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Wilkes Bashford

CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell-Namdar

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser

MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague

PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra

DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Fran Salamon

PRODUCTION MANAGER

Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

CREATIVE DIRECTION

WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT

WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY

WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP

PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi

PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN

Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA

Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional

editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum

5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175;

Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-

accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited

manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this

magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the

publishers. Volume 13, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.

welcome

“ WE ARE THRILLED TO

BE USHERING IN A NEW

DECADE AND A NEW ERA

FOR WILKES BASHFORD

WITH OUR NEW PARTNERS,

THE MITCHELL FAMILY!”

Wow, it has been quite a

year for us at Wilkes Bashford!

As you know, in the past couple

of years, the economy has taken

its toll on our industry and on our

stores. But from hard times, great

opportunities often arise. We are

thrilled and consider ourselves

extremely fortunate to have the

Mitchell family on board to help us

ring in a new decade and a new era!

I have personally known

Jack Mitchell for 25 years as we

have attended many of the same

industry events and have worked

with many of the same designers.

I could not possibly think of any

person or family that I’d rather

work with than the Mitchells. Their

standards for fashion, quality and

service are identical to my own.

Since their arrival here in

December, they’ve been helping us

bring in new vendors and update

our operations, and I have no

doubt our business will thrive and

grow beyond my dreams under

their stewardship. Our stores

have already introduced exciting

new vendors, including Etro, Loro

Piana, Stefano Ricci and a new

jewelry department. You’ll also

fi nd a lot of other fun surprises

around our stores.

While much is changing, all

that our friends and customers

love about Wilkes Bashford is

staying the same. Your loyal

associates are still here to off er

unsurpassed service and our

commitment to our communities

only continues to grow stronger!

Please enjoy the premier issue

of WILKES Magazine, which you

will be seeing each spring and fall,

along with more communications

about all the exciting things going

on in our stores.

Lots of Hugs!

Wilkes

From left:

Tyler Mitchell,

Wilkes Bashford,

Jack Mitchell, Andrew

Mitchell-Namdar

introductions

THE ENTIRE MITCHELL FAMILY IS

EXTREMELY EXCITED ABOUT THE

OPPORTUNITY TO WORK WITH THE

INIMITABLE WILKES BASHFORD AND THE

STELLAR PROFESSIONALS AND BRAND HE

HAS CREATED IN HIS BAY AREA STORES.

Meet the

Mitchells

We are confi dent that our strengths will complement

those of Wilkes and that together we can realize and

expand his vision for generations to come.

For those who are not familiar with us, the Mitchell

family has been in the luxury retail business for over

50 years, starting with Mitchells, our fi rst store in

Westport, Connecticut, originally called “Ed Mitchells”

A Bit of

Our History

after our beloved and visionary

patriarch.

We have long been acquainted

with Wilkes, work with many of the

same world-renowned designers

and share a similar aesthetic as well

as a like commitment to impeccable

customer service and community

involvement. Our vendors are very

supportive of this merger. On the

following pages, we invite you to

get to know us a bit better...

Our parents/grandparents, Ed and Norma

Mitchell, founded the company in 1958

with three men’s suits, a coffee pot and

a dream…

The heart of their extraordinary vision

was to “hug” the customer… to enhance

and add value to the retail experience by

offering unsurpassed service, a uniquely

warm environment, to give back to

their communities and to build trusting

relationships with customers and friends

that would last throughout generations.

The fi rst location of the original “Ed

Mitchells” was an 800 sq. ft. former

plumbing supply store in Westport, CT.

Norma famously brought in her coffee pot

each day to make the customers feel at

home. For over 50 years, we have strived to

carry on that spirit and tradition. Today, in

our stores, we offer lattés, M&M’s, have a

dedicated “Kiddie Corner” and much more…

we try to do her proud!

Mitchells of Westport is still an

independent, family-owned store, operated

by a second and third generation of

Mitchells, and has grown to 25,000 sq. ft.

over the years. We also have expanded the

dream into other communities. In 1995, we

acquired Richards of Greenwich, a renowned

8,000 sq. ft. luxury men’s retailer, which

we have expanded to include a women’s

department, and is now 27,000 sq. ft. and

the winner of numerous retail space design

awards. In 2005, we acquired Marshs

of Huntington, a 15,000 sq. ft. men’s

store, which we have renovated inside

and out, adding women’s ready-to-wear,

accessories and jewelry.

The Mitchell family is extremely

involved in our communities and over

the years have hosted countless

charity events for both local and

global causes as well as fashion

events, hosting top designers from

all over the world. Inadvertently,

we have become a “social hub” and

meeting place in our communities and

we look very much forward to getting

to know the people of the Bay Area in

the same way!

From left:

Bill Mitchell, Tyler

Mitchell, Scott Mitchell,

Bob Mitchell, Jack

Mitchell, Linda Mitchell,

Chris Mitchell, Russ

Mitchell, Andrew

Mitchell-Namdar

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

Meet Jack Mitchell,

WHO WILL BE IN SAN FRANCISCO FOR THE NEXT YEAR; TYLER, WHO

HAS RELOCATED TO SAN FRANCISCO; AND ANDREW, WHO WILL BE

SPLITTING HIS TIME...

Jack Mitchell is Chairman of the Mitchells

Family of Stores. He and his brother Bill

Mitchell, who have been partners in growing

the business started by their parents Ed and

Norma, represent the second generation of the

Mitchells retail business. Jack has four sons in

the business and Bill has three, representing

what they fondly refer to as “G3.”

Jack has relocated to San Francisco for

approximately a year, to help launch the next

generation of Wilkes Bashford and to get to

know the associates and community.

Jack has been recognized as one of the

“top ten retail visionaries of his time” by the

Daily News Record, one of the most widely

read retail trade publications in the country.

The author of the 2003 Wall Street Journal

bestseller HUG YOUR CUSTOMERS, Jack

more recently completed his second book,

HUG YOUR PEOPLE, which Hyperion

published in March 2008.

After completing a B.A. at

Wesleyan University in 1961 and an

M.A. at the University of California-

Berkeley, Jack joined the family

business, Ed Mitchell, Inc., which was

founded by his parents, Ed

and Norma.

Growing up in a close-knit

family and raising four sons with

his wife Linda, who also works in

the business, established patterns

of thoughtfulness and caring in

Jack that blended seamlessly into

serving the public in the retail

clothing business. Under his leadership, along

with his brother Bill and eight other family

members, Mitchells, Richards and Marshs,

like Wilkes Bashford, have become wellknown

for employee longevity and providing

exceptional customer service and high quality

merchandise in an exciting, friendly and

visually dynamic atmosphere.

In 2000, Richards received “Store of the

Year” honors in the annual Retail Design

Awards competition held by the National

Association of Store Fixtures (NASFM) and

co-sponsored by VM+SD magazine. In 2001,

MR Magazine, the magazine of menswear

retailing, named Mitchells/Richards “Retailer

of the Year.”

Jack shares with his family a

number of Community Leadership

Awards from the Anti-Defamation

League, The Menswear Division

of UJA-Federation of New York

and Sacred Heart University. Jack

is on the Yale Cancer Board and

Greenwich Hospital Board

of Trustees.

Jack has become an active

speaker since 2003, keynoting at

over 200 events for corporations

including Morgan Stanley, Build-A-Bear,

Payless, Nike and Harvard University School

of Business, addressing audiences of all sizes

and reaching over 31,000 people with HUG

YOUR CUSTOMERS/HUG YOUR PEOPLE

presentations.

If you haven’t met Jack, please say “hello.”

He is thrilled to work with Mr. Bashford and

to return to California, where he lived while

getting his Masters in Berkley (just a few

years ago). After a long and exciting retail

journey, he couldn’t think of any place he’d

rather spend time than in the Bay Area!

Books at left:

HUG YOUR CUSTOMERS

and HUG YOUR PEOPLE

by Jack Mitchell

Below: Jack Mitchell

speaks at Mitchells

50th Anniversay Gala,

September 2008 at

Westport, CT store

��

Tyler Mitchell is thrilled to be settling

into life in San Francisco and getting

to know and work with the staff and

customers at Wilkes Bashford. “I think

it’s the best move we could have possibly

made… San Francisco is an incredible

market and Wilkes Bashford is one of

the finest specialty stores in the country.

People who truly love to dress shop here.

It is the best product in the world and

one of the most intimate and enjoyable

shopping environments I have

ever seen,” he said.

And Tyler would

know. Tyler, like

all of the Mitchell

grandsons, initially

worked outside of

the family stores

to gain “real world

experience” before

joining Mitchells

in 2006. Tyler’s

experience in fashion

has included stints at

Henry Bucks in Australia

(an international menswear

group store), Brioni

Wholesale (based in Italy)

for three years and Harry

Rosen of Canada for two

years after graduating

from Boston College.

After working at luxury clothing

companies from four countries on

three continents, Tyler has been

blown away by the Wilkes Bashford

team. “Never have I met more

intelligent, passionate, knowledgeable

people in this industry. They love

what they do and the customer

feels this.”

Unlike the three stores the

Mitchell family operates on the

East Coast, Tyler appreciates that

Wilkes Bashford in San Francisco is

in an urban environment, with direct

competition just feet away…. It is our

people that make all the difference,

it is first the experience of Wilkes

Bashford, and then the clothes… We

are in a service industry and our

merchants never stop searching for

the most sophisticated product in the

world to offer our customers.

In his spare time, Tyler is fully

enjoying the riches of Northern

California and the Pacific Northwest,

which for him include surfing,

snowboarding, mountain biking,

running, visits to the wine country

and all the area has to offer. “This

move offers everything I could want in

the areas of career and lifestyle. I look

forward to being a part of this region

and this community.”

��

“I visited San Francisco 15 years

ago and it’s the first city I ever felt

an instant bond with, thinking

‘I could live here!’” says Andrew

Mitchell-Namdar, son of Jack,

and VP of Marketing.

A graduate of Hamilton

College, Andrew previously

worked for the Woolworth

Corporation, London Fog and

Godiva Chocolate before starting

at Mitchells in 1999.

Andrew, who has been

spending half of his time in San

Francisco, is an avid runner and

is getting to know the different

neighborhoods through long

runs in the morning, though “the

hills are a killer.” An avid foodie,

Andrew loves to cook, is enjoying

trying lots of local restaurants and

is particularly fond of the French

coffee shop he frequents each

morning.

Andrew is excited to greatly

expand Wilkes Bashford’s

marketing efforts and plans to

create a program of catalogs,

mailers, magazines and ads,

and to launch an interactive

website for the store. Andrew also

presides over public relations and

events and has many exciting

initiatives planned. “I’ve always

admired Wilkes Bashford’s business

and reputation within the industry

and worldwide. The prospect of

repositioning the stores for the next

40 years is exciting for me, because

Wilkes has built an incredible

foundation and brand from which to

build,” he said.

Of the many things

Andrew is loving about being here,

one of his favorites is

the relationship

he is enjoying with

Wilkes Bashford

himself. Wilkes

has been

“like a second

father” he says,

“generously

taking me

under his wing and

introducing me to

so many people.”

While not in

San Francisco,

Andrew, a

newlywed, resides

in New York City

and Stamford,

Connecticut

with husband

Isaac Namdar, MD.

��

��

THERE IS ALWAYS SOMETHING

TRUNK SHOWS

SAN FRANCISCO

2/5 Rotenier

2/5-6 Beaudry

2/6 Monica Rich Kosann

3/4-5 Luciano Barbera Men’s

3/13 Loro Piana Men’s

3/17-18 Brunello Cucinelli Men’s & Women’s

3/19-20 Brioni Men’s & Women’s

3/28 Ermenegildo Zegna

3/28 Agnona

4/16-17 Kiton Men’s & Women’s

4/29-30 Eveningwear Caravan

5/4-5 Michael Kors

PALO ALTO

2/5 Monica Rich Kosann

2/6 Rotenier

3/6-7 Luciano Barbera Men’s

3/14 Loro Piana Men’s

3/15-16 Brunello Cucinelli Men’s & Women’s

3/21 Brioni Men’s & Women’s

4/18 Kiton Men’s & Women’s

5/1-2 Eveningwear Caravan

16 WILKES

NEW HAPPENING AT WILKES!

NEW DESIGNERS

Reintroducing Etro

Reintroducing Loro Piana

Introducing Paule Ka

Introducing J Mendel

Expanded Zegna Collection

Expanded Brunello Cucinelli Collection

New 5th Floor Jewelry Department

Introducing Lela Rose

Introducing Michael Kors

Introducing Sonia Rykiel

Introducing Stefano Ricci

17 WILKES

Stop in

to see the

exciting

changes!

happenings

Giving Back

SAN FRANCISCO

HISTORICAL EVENT

On December 17th, Wilkes Bashford hosted a holiday

cocktail celebration to officially welcome the Mitchell

family to San Francisco and raise money and awareness

for the San Francisco Museum and Historical

Society. Close to 200 people came through the doors

to nibble on goodies, hear Christmas jazz by pianist

Steve Moon and learn more about the museum’s Mint

Project. The highlight of the evening was a surprise

showing of numerous historical silver pieces throughout

the store, which will be part of the museum’s collection

once it opens.

18 WILKES

ASKWILKES

To avoid

looking

sloppy, make

sure your

jeans are

slim but not

tight and not

dragging on

the floor

20 WILKES

Q: Without buying a whole new

wardrobe, what key items should I be

buying for spring 2010 to update my look?

If you buy only one piece this season, make it a soft sportcoat.

For 2010, sportcoats are slightly slimmer and less structured

(some are totally unlined) with softer shoulders. Some styles

feature technical details and inside pockets; others have knit

insets and can be worn casually or as an outerwear piece.

Bottom line, a soft sportcoat takes you anywhere, and ties

together the rest of your wardrobe.

Beyond that, you might want to buy a soft plaid shirt in pale

purple or blue, a few new neckties (they’re a bit narrower this

season and look great for business or partying), slim 5-pocket

trousers (a departure from jeans) and new boat shoes. Now

you’re good to go for spring 2010!

Q: The Wall Street Journal recently

showed a photo of Russian President

Dmitry Medvedev wearing jeans while

meeting with President Obama. Is this

appropriate? What kind of jeans work

best in business situations?

If you’re the president of a large country, you can apparently

wear whatever you want, but in our opinion, wearing jeans to

a high level meeting is clearly inappropriate. That said, dark

denim worn with a sportcoat, tie and dress shoes can be an

acceptable business look for certain occasions. Just make

sure the jeans are slim but not tight, and a perfect length (not

dragging on the floor, not rolled up). Rips, tears, whiskering

and very light washes are never acceptable for business (and

often look just plain silly!). Don’t forget to invest in a really

good leather jeans belt that’s less formal than the ones you

wear with suits.

When in doubt, however, it’s best to do business in a well

tailored suit—always elegant, fashionable and respectful.

IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE

Q: My girlfriend is mortified when I

wear shorts out at night but I

don’t see what’s wrong with it. When

and where should shorts be worn?

What kinds of shorts are in style?

Our fashion experts argued this one for hours and still

couldn’t come to a consensus. Obviously, shorts are

appropriate on weekends and for recreational activities

(and there are so many great styles available this season,

from tailored fits to washed plaids, bold colors to

reversibles) but traditionalists still recommend long

pants at night. That said, a few fashion magazines (and

fashion runways) were touting shorts for all occasions,

even showing them with sportcoats for a dress-up look.

But bottom line: If your girlfriend is mortified, lose the

shorts for nighttime (or dump the girlfriend). As we all

know, it’s not worth the aggravation…

Q: My wardrobe consists

of suits for work, khakis

and golf shirts for weekends.

Am I missing something?

YES! Trade magazines used to call it “the third

wardrobe” and it’s essentially that gray area

between dressed up and “schlumpy.”

It’s really less complicated than it seems: Buy a

few nice pairs of pants that are neither jeans nor

khakis (we love linen, colored canvas, seersucker,

subtle patterns), a few woven shirts and/or lightweight

knits and one great sportcoat. Throw in an

accessory or two (a great scarf, a cool belt, fun

socks) and you’ve made a minimal investment that

will totally upgrade your image. Come into the store

and we’ll make it painless.

21 WILKES

IMAGE BY DAMIAN SANDONE

closet how-to

In a quandry and frozen

with confusion by your

outdated closet?

We’ve got some tips.

22 WILKES

CLEAN YOUR

CLOSET, FREE

YOUR SOUL

By Nick Ockert

My closet was a puzzle of mismatched pieces, outdated

styles and strange colors. I longed for a solution to the

chaos, knowing that to simplify my closet would be to

simplify my life. After much research (and experimentation),

here are five foolproof criteria to follow:

1Wear. If it’s worn, frayed, faded, ripped or rippled

(as some suits tend to be after too many dry cleanings),

throw it out!

2Replenish. Replace the classics you still love (the

perfect charcoal suit and navy blazer, white and

blue oxford shirts, great jeans and khakis) but

remember that styles evolve and today’s classics are not

exactly the same as yesterday’s.

3Dormancy. If you haven’t worn it in two years, you’re

probably not ever going to, so donate your inactive

pieces to those in need. If you’re holding onto clothes

that are outdated because you think these styles will come

back, trust me: they won’t. We offer a complimentary closet

cleaning service, and we’d be happy to send one of our

trained associates to your home to help you make the

tough decisions.

4Fit. If you’ve gained or lost a little weight, a good

tailor might be able to help. But if you’ve changed

more than a size, even a great tailor may not be

enough. What’s more, expensive alterations might not

be the best option, especially when you can find so

much terrific new fashion in stores these days.

5Boredom. If your wardrobe is not exciting you, it’s

not likely to excite anyone else, so add a few new

pieces for a boost. To quote the writer Isaac

Bashevis Singer, “What a strange power there is in

clothing!” And what a strange and liberating power in

an organized closet!

GETTY 1 / CHARLES GULLUNG

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

Associates from our San Francisco & Palo Alto stores share

some of the hottest trends for Spring 2010 and some of

their favorite customer stories....

��

��The biggest movement in menswear

continues to be the trimmer silhouette... sexier

garments that fi t closer to the body and fl atter

most body types. The way a man dresses

speaks volumes about him. Whether for a

date, the theatre or an event, it shows a man’s

level of sophistication. —Elizabeth

��One day, Arnold Schwarzenegger was in

the store, trying on a Kiton jacket. When the

salesperson tried to take the coat off , Arnold

got big and said it was stuck and we would

have to cut it off . Wilkes walked in right at

that moment, with Arnold stuck in the coat,

or so it appeared. Wilkes freaked out for a

moment, until Arnold easily slipped it off , and

we laughed so hard we were in tears! That day,

it happened to be my nephew’s birthday and

he’s a huge fan of Arnold’s. I called my nephew

on the phone and he was treated to a very

special birthday wish! —Randy

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��I’m seeing lighter colored suits and

cool spring colors like lavenders and

light blues in shirts and ties, or mixed

into Prince of Wales plaids. The palette is

uplifting and sophisticated, and these are

things you can wear for a long time.

��I have this couple who are both

clients... he’s a doctor and she’s a

psychiatrist. One day, I was walking down

the street and this crouched over lady

kept bumping into me, asking for money,

pushing her head against me. I got really

fl ustered. Finally, I said, “Lady, you gotta

stop, you’re going too far with this!” She

cracked up... it was my client. People are

always playing practical jokes around here!

��

��Oscar de La Renta is showing great

prints like the one I have on, accented with

purple, orange or green. White sleeveless

ruffl e blouses with cigarette jeans are hot.

And Bogner has an orange leather motorcycle

jacket that is great with a white t-shirt and

skinny jeans!

��A few years ago, a newly engaged

client called me to help with her wedding.

I had Anouska Hempel in London make an

incredible wedding dress with matching

full length opera coat. Due to her schedule

she was unable to meet with the designer

in London, so she graciously entrusted me

with all the details of the wedding gown.

Three days prior to the wedding, she arrived

in San Francisco, and tried on the ensemble.

Everything was perfect! To this day, she has

remained one of my most cherished clients.

��

��In women’s shoes, we’re seeing

tailored mid-heels, sensible platforms

that are more comfortable and not

as high as before, fabulous fl ats and

d’Orsays at all heights. —Jody

��I had a female client who came

in looking for a men’s shoe, because

she wore a size 12. I said I would

show her every women’s shoe in the

store, in case we could fi nd some to

fi t her. To her delight, I found her fi ve

pairs of shoes that day, all of which

she bought, and she’s been my best

customer ever since! —Lotta

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��

KAREN SUSSMAN ASSOCIATE SINCE 1998

TREND Cropped jackets are hot, like the

one I have on by Brunello Cucinelli... so

are long cardigans or blazers with skinny

pants or leggings, and lots of leather.

Medallions and layered necklaces will

be strong this spring. And I’m loving

Kimberley McDonald’s organic stones,

like the bracelet that I’m wearing. It’s a

great look, which can be serious or artsy.

FRIEND One day a customer of mine came

in at 6pm as the store was closing to buy

a dress, last minute, for her own 50th. I

stayed open for her and it was “just us.”

She bought a Catherine Malandrino dress,

Christian Louboutin shoes and a fabulous

beaded bag from Larissa Barrera. I love

those moments. We had such a blast and

she left thrilled will her outfi t!

CATHY EILENBERGER-UBELL ASSOCIATE SINCE 1991

SANDY ROSS ASSOCIATE SINCE 1996

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

TREND In menswear, soft sportcoats without

shoulder padding that are only half lined are

very hot right now. They are dressier than a

denim jacket, but more casual than a structured

sportcoat. A lot of designers, like Brioni, Loro

Piana, Barbera, Zegna and Cucinelli are making

them. They may be cashmere or wool blends and

sometimes they have patch pockets or other fun

and subtle detailing. It is a “must have” for any

man’s wardrobe! —Cathy

FRIEND I got a call last spring from a very busy

client who was going to the Kentucky Derby and

needed an appropriate wardrobe. He didn’t have

much time, so we went to his offi ce with suits,

sportcoats and accessories for all the events. One

was a Komen fundraiser, so we brought pink ties

and pocket squares. We dressed him for the race

and all the pre- and post-race events, which are a

bit over the top. He was thrilled! What’s up next...

the Preakness or the Belmont Stakes? —Sandy

��

��Kiton is my biggest passion

and as the self-appointed “professor

of menswear,” I am very into

Classisism. I believe we wear suits

to conform (boardroom, weddings,

ceremonies) and sports jackets

“to show the world what we have

learned.” What’s hot for spring?

A light colored suit... forget the

black suit!! Why? Because you can!

��A friend and client of mine

is the Hollywood screenwriter who

wrote the fi lm My Best Friend’s

Wedding. We’ve worked together

for years, and not only did he

loosely model the Rupert Everett

character (a gay man who was the

best friend of the bride) after me,

but he even game him the last

name “Downes”!

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��Cream and navy or navy and white,

mixed with a dash of color, like bright lime

green or orange, are elegant for spring.

When customers buy an expensive blazer, they

should be able to wear it a lot. We will show

you how to wear it in a spring-like way. You can

wear it with light gray pants, or skinny khakis

and you will have a “wardrobe on a hanger.”

Clothing isn’t a science, it’s art, and like any

painting or sculpture it will never be fi nished.

—Arnaud

��One year, I had a cient who invited

my husband and me to her home for the

holidays with all of her closest friends. She

and her husband own a publishing company

and there were professors from Stanford and

surgeons and wonderful people there. That

was really special and we’ve been friends ever

since. We’ve gone out to lunch and I meet her

in the Palo Alto store when she can’t get into

the city. —Yvonne

RENEE WILLIS ASSOCIATE SINCE 2004

TRENDS I am loving all the great, chunky pieces in our new

jewelry department! We are carrying some of the hottest

jewelry designers. I’m wearing jewelry by Temple St. Clair.

She makes these stunning link chains and does a lot of great

big charms and amulets. You gotta check it out!

FRIEND A new customer called, looking for a specifi c Oscar de

la Renta gown she had seen in a magazine. It turned out she

was a producer at Pixar up for an Oscar for Wall-E. And she

was pregnant. We got the dress and Shigeko, our awesome

seamstress, tailored the basket weave around her stomach.

We kept opening it up as she grew. She put on Spanx, we

made it look great and she won the Oscar in that dress! Then,

she ended up buying fi ve or six more gowns from me and

becoming one of my best customers.

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��

��Men are dressing much more

casually. They are actually “dressing

up” in casual wear — putting on

loafers with a dressier pant, sweater

and shirt. “Casual Chic” is the big

trend I’m seeing. —John

��There is an old adage in retail

that says “you never stop showing

things to a customer until he or she

says ‘stop’.” Well, one time I was

helping a gentleman, who kept buying

and buying more clothes! He bought

six suits, eight sportcoats, two dozen

shirts, a dozen pair of pants, a handful

of casual outerwear pieces and six or

seven pair of shoes, all in one visit! I

had to say “stop,” I had nothing more

to show him! It turned out he had lost

a lot of weight and had nothing to

wear, so he was treating himself to a

new wardrobe! —Robert

FARAN SHEIKH ASSOCIATE SINCE 2001

ALEXANDER KOUTSOYANNIS ASSOCIATE SINCE 2002

FRIEND A customer walked into the

store who hadn’t had good shopping

experiences in the past. I introduced

myself, and he continued to browse.

A few hours and many purchases later,

he and his wife discovered our mutual

love for our homeland, Greece. Later,

he pulled me aside to tell me how

comfortable he had felt in the store

and was glad I took the time with him.

Today he is a fabulous customer and a

great friend. That is what’s great about

our stores… customers can work with

whomever they relate to and feel like

they are at home here!—Alexander

TREND Men are tending to be a little

more hip in the way they dress, more

tapered and everything is more trim...

classic with a little bit of a twist to it.

The customer here in Palo Alto is more

subdued than in San Francisco, but

they still want something new; we have

to keep intriguing them! —Faran

��

��More casual, comfortable

loafers with rubber soles are really

popular. For dressier shoes, men

are loving Stefano Bi, which have

a thicker sole. They are fabulous

with jeans or a suit, very Italian!

Everybody around here loves that

brand, they’re hip. —Tania

��About 15 years ago, a famous

TV star/comedian with a top show

(at the time) comes in. It’s 10am,

he’s smoking a cigar and holding a

briefcase. He couldn’t be nicer, just

like his character on TV. He looks

at crocodile shoes that are $1,400

(at the time) and haggles about the

price. Once I get fl ustered, he opens

up the brief case and inside are

stacks of brand new $100 bills! He

cracks up and buys two pairs. —John

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��

�� The dress trend is still really

strong — we have them in great

little summer prints. They are easy

to put together, accessorize and roll

up and travel with. For spring, we’re

also seeing really short jackets with

a swing style. They look great with

a narrow pant that goes to the ankle

and a longer underpinning. I think

the best word to describe clothes this

season is “playful”! —Christine

��I have a daughter and a mother,

whom are both customers. Before

this past Christmas, the mother

called to come in so I could help her

choose a gift for her daugher. The

next day, the daughter called to come

in to fi nd a gift for her mother. They

both wanted to come on Saturday

at 1pm! I had to juggle them and I

thought it was hilarious! —Nadine

��

FRIENDS

TR &NDS

��Our new bed linens, like the embroidered pillow

sham I’m holding, are simply stunning! But my favorite

item has to be our cashmere blankets... they come in earth

tones and are so cozy, comfy and warm, you have to touch

them to believe them! And they complement our bed

linens so well.

��I have a customer, who is now more of a friend, who

collects Pratesi. Every time he has someone new in town,

he brings them right here. He is truly a lover of beautiful

things... he loves the colors and the feel. He buys things

and holds them, incorporating them into his life, when the

mood strikes him. I’ve been to his home and when I saw

his bedroom and his closet, it blew me away!

If you’re searching for infinity ,

you’ll find it in a child’s smile.

Cherish that smile:

it is the Soul of the world.

icon

FROM THE

ARCHIVES

Brioni is honored for its sartorial

contributions. By Jillian Sprague

For the past 65 years, one clothing

maker has managed to expertly balance

innovation and tradition. The

house of Brioni, founded in 1945 by

Gaetano Savini and Nazareno

Fonticoli, has influenced the direction

of men’s fashion and, by extension,

Italian culture. At the company’s

headquarters in Rome, Brioni

has amassed an extraordinary

archive of its history, including

more than 700 suits, 10,000 photographs,

and hundreds of drafts,

designs, sketches and patent documents.

As part of the Archivi della Moda

del’ 900 (Fashion Archives from the

1900s) project developed by the

Italian National Archive

Association, in collaboration with

the Director General for Archives

and the Ministry of Heritage and

Culture, the Brioni archives were

recently recognized for their cultural

and historical significance.

“The recognition from the

Ministry is a source of great pride

for us, not just as a testimony of the

work the company has performed

for 65 years, but also because it is

our contribution to the world of

fashion and to the culture of our

country. Being able to let scholars

consult our documents demonstrates

the importance and the historical

and cultural value of Brioni,”

says CEO Andrea Perrone, with

much gratification.

Indeed, the recognition is a

national tribute to the company’s

work in high fashion, work that has

advanced the importance of Italian

sartorial tradition internationally.

Clothing makers around the world

continue to learn from studying

Brioni’s trademark blend of technical

and stylistic excellence. As the

suit maker of choice for James

Bond, they must be doing something

right.

41 WILKES

CLOTHING MAKERS AROUND THE

WORLD CONTINUE TO LEARN FROM

STUDYING BRIONI’S TRADEMARK

BLEND OF TECHNICAL AND

STYLISTIC EXCELLENCE.

��

�� We met 45 or so

years ago. I came into the

store a week or two after

he first opened to inspect

the garments. I think

they thought I was either a spotter or

a shoplifter, but I was already in the

Legislature.

��

I had an uncle that was quite the dandy

and was originally inspired by him.

He had moved to California when I

was still a kid in Mineola, Texas and

would always come back wearing these

amazing clothes. That same uncle

convinced my mother to let me come

to California for college. I’ve been here

ever since.

��

�� A two-button peak lapel,

no-vent Brioni. I wanted to wear it for

a speech I was making at the Fairmont.

At the time, Wilkes had no in-house

tailoring, so we did the measurements

and he was supposed to rush and have

it delivered to the Fairmont and I was

going to put it on there. Someone told

me that maybe I should wear a backup

suit, in case it didn’t fit, advice I almost

didn’t take. Sure enough, the sleeves

had been shortened and the pants were

all wrong. Apparently, the tailor read

the measurements backwards. Wilkes

was embarrassed to tears. I’ll never let

him live it down!

��

Wilkes is supreme. He’s a brand. Like

a Zegna or a Brioni. In this region it’s

more important that you wear a “Wilkes

Bashford” than who the designer is.

He has established the most dominant

fashion point of view in the region for

people who are interested in clothing.

He takes what designers create and

slightly modifies it with his inimitable

eye and always makes it a better outfit.

WBon

WB

��

You can always tell if a garment comes

from Wilkes Bashford. Wilkes is so

known as a visionary in menswear

that when he is on buying trips,

buyers from top department stores,

like Bergdorf Goodman, often ask him

what he his buying and follow his lead.

��

�� Wilkes Bashford’s stores have

been the cornerstone of my public

presentation. As an elected official,

you are looked at before you are

heard. If you looked at Obama and

what he was wearing was wrong,

it would detract from what he was

saying. It is important for people who

are delivering messages, like Matt

Lauer, for example, to have everything

in place… color, fabric: it all makes

a statement.

�� I write a column

for the San Francisco Chronicle about

everything from international events to

movies and food and I have a lot of fun

with it. I’m told it’s the most widely read

column in the paper.

��

�� Oh, we spend birthdays and

Christmas together. We’ve buried a

lot of friends together over the years.

We have been having lunch together

every Friday at the same restaurant,

same table for years. I have the utmost

respect for his taste and for him as a

person. He does incredible work as a

board member and past president of

the War Memorial & Performing Arts

Center, the highest ranking cultural

agency in the city. He is a lovely

sweetheart of a man.

“ Wilkes is supreme. He’s a brand. In this

region it’s more important that you wear a

‘Wilkes Bashford’ than who the designer is.”

��

��

��

��

Luciano Barbera, on right: Gurhan

In honor of the Mitchell family’s

“American Journey” west to California,

we invite you to join us on a trip down

some uniquely American roads... where

stunning spring fashions meet the timeless

strength of the American spirit...

This page:

Oscar de la Renta

Opposite page:

J. Mendel

Previous page:

Brunello Cucinelli

Right and Left Pages: Brioni

LUCIANO BARBERA

AMERICAN

road trip

AMERICAN

road trip

This page: Donald Deal

Opposite page: Sonia Bogner

GURHAN

This page:

Ermenegildo Zegna

Opposite page:

Loro Piana

��

��

Having the pleasure of visiting

Florence several times per year, we

have collected some of our buyers’

favorite tidbits of advice to use on

your next jaunt to Italy. Enjoy!

��

��

��

Cibreo has an exotic menu with recipes dating back to the Middle Ages and is generally ranked as Florence’s #1

restaurant. // Hotel Baglioni offers casual rooftop dining with an awesome view of the whole city, also a

great spot for a cocktail. // Sostanza has real Florentine character, a true family-style Trattoria with a limited

menu, but fun! Order the chicken and artichoke pie. // Buca Mario is an old world Florence restaurant with

the best Florentine steak in the city. // Mamma Gina is a large, fun spot and very good — order the Mama

Gina Cannelloni. It also has a really awesome wine list that’s not overpriced. // Omero is across the Arno and up

in the hills. The food is good, not great, but the view is outstanding! You can eat outside if you like overlooking the city.

// Cupoli is a 20-minute cab ride in Lastra a Singna to up in the hills, high above Florence. The owner is the only

female Master Sommelier in Europe and it is well worth the ride! Eat out in the garden with a breathtaking view of the

city below. The most romantic restaurant!

Vivoli for awesome gelato by Santa Croce. // La Cantinetta Antinori is a great place to get

a glass or two of Super Tuscans that are otherwise hard to find. // Capocaccia — a fun spot along the river.

This place serves Limoncello frozen and in frosted glasses; beware of Limoncello — it’s sneaky!

��

Go to Boboli Gardens if it’s nice out. // Climb the

Duomo // See the pharmacy at Santa

Maria Novella — It’s hard to describe why this place

is so neat, but it is the oldest pharmacy in Europe. // A run or

walk along the banks of the Arno under the

bridges is magical (but if you run, expect Italians to stare as

running is not as common as in the States).

��

15 minutes from Florence Centro, Torre Bellosguardo is

an old Palazzo with amazing view of the city. torrebellosguardo.com //

Hotel Lungarno is a more modern hotel owned by Ferragamo

family — ideal location right on the Arno river. // Palazzo

Vecchietti — 14 super-luxe apartments or suites in an old town

house. Some come with their own Butler. palazzovecchietti.com

profile

56 WILKES

WELL SUITED

From textiles to technology,

Ermenegildo Zegna’s got menswear

covered. By William Kissel

Italian clothier Ermenegildo Zegna had a breakthrough

three years ago when it introduced the iJacket, a featherweight

garment featuring a built-in touch control panel on

the sleeve, allowing a man to interface with his iPod without

ever removing it from his inside chest pocket. Called

Smart Clothing technology, it paved the way for last year’s

Solar jacket, which has a built-in solar cell to help keep

your personal electronics perpetually charged. Now Zegna

has gone even further with the introduction of Elements,

the first jacket to automatically regulate your body temperature

in all weather situations.

If your only perception of Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) is

as a suit maker, you might be surprised to know that this

family-owned company, celebrating its 100th anniversary

this year, has been on the cutting edge of fashion since its

inception in 1910.

A FABRIC MAKER, A CLOTHING LABEL, A SHOE AND LEATHER GOODS BRAND,

AND A PHILANTHROPIC ENTITY KNOWN FOR ITS TIRELESS EFFORTS ON BEHALF

OF THE ENVIRONMENT, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN ALL THINGS ZEGNA IS THE

COMPANY’S PREOCCUPATION WITH CREATIVITY AND TECHNOLOGY.

This season Zegna’s textile team

is particularly fond of “Crossover”

fabrics made from divergent fiber

sources, such as a proprietary blend

of cashmere and cotton used to create

what the company calls Cashco.

“These two fibers are normally used

for different seasons, climates and

lifestyles. But we brought them

together to create a soft and silky

fabric that is both precious and

sporty,” explains co-chief executive

Gildo Zegna, a fourth generation

clothier named for the company’s

founder. Other Crossover fabrics are

made from blends of silk, linen and

wool to give a light and airy feeling

to typically heavyweight Prince of

Wales and other check patterns.

Zegna says such cloths transcend

seasons to greatly extend the life of

one’s wardrobe, and are the result of

2,000 seasonal fabric experiments,

only a handful of which ultimately

end up in Zegna’s three signature

clothing lines: Ermenegildo Zegna,

Zegna Sport and Z Zegna.

While fabric is Zegna’s history,

suit making has become the family’s

heritage. The generation currently

running the business grew up, like

their fathers and grandfathers, “eating

bread and jackets,” as one

Italian tailor described such an all-

consuming passion. Zegna first put

its signature on tailored clothing in

the 1960s and a decade later became

a world leader in the field with the

invention of made-to-measure, a

half-machine/half-handmade hybrid

style of custom suit making that is

today offered by nearly every clothing

brand in the world. At a time

when designer brands like Gucci,

Giorgio Armani and Yves Saint

Laurent were offering the same

house style to every man wearing

their suits, Zegna’s idea to let men

select their own fabrics and details—

in essence design their own suits—

became a watershed moment for

both Zegna and, subsequently, the

entire menswear industry.

eople think we are

developing all these

products to satisfy

our own egos. But

it’s really out of

necessity,” says

Anna Zegna, VP of

worldwide communications, noting

the importance of a global brand

offering a full range of products and

pricepoints in order to satisfy a variety

of tastes and needs. That

includes everything from $200 jeans

and $395 sneakers to $5,000 limited

edition alligator shoes and $20,000

57 WILKES

CHECK OUT ZEGNA’S

SPRING COLLECTION OF

ELEGANTLY-STYLED SPORTS-

WEAR AND SUITS, MOST OF

WHICH ARE REMARKABLY

REMINISCENT OF THOSE

WORN BY THE GATSBY

GENERATION OF THE 1920S.

custom-made suits cut from

the company’s own Vellus

Aureum, a wool so rare there is

only enough cloth to produce 20

suits. “We are using more luxurious

materials and adding more hand

make in our made-to-measure suits

than we did in the past,” says Gildo.

But that is not at the expense of the

broader luxury consumer and the

current economy that “demands we

create more products that are more

affordable,” he adds.

Despite so much diversification,

Zegna still makes some of

the finest suits and sportcoats in

the world. What’s more, because

the company is vertically integrated

(meaning it produces its

own fabrics and the finished

clothing made from them), prices

are relatively reasonable. “It’s not

just about good quality, but also

innovation in style and, above all,

a great fit,” explains Gildo, noting

that Zegna’s goal has always been

to offer a taste of Italian fashion

without being too outspoken.

“Any company capable of combining

all three is at the top,” he says

with a pause before adding:

“We’re not yet at the top, but

we’re certainly moving in that

direction.”

food

FROM FARM TO FORK

Divine dining that benefits your community and

the environment. By Jacquelin Carnegie

Eating organic food grown locally is

a good idea, and easier than you

might think.

The terms “locavore” and “homegrown”

refer to organic food that’s

grown within a 100-mile radius of

where it’s served. Many people are

trying to eat healthier, and shopping

at local farmers’ markets and choosing

organic produce at the supermarket

are great ways to get more nutrients

into your cooking.

But what to do when you want to

dine out? There are farm-to-table

restaurants across the country gaining

prominence for their green practices

as well as their savory menus.

The movement is happening nation-

wide, with homegrown restaurants

run by established chefs as well as

up-and-comers with new ideas.

In a traditional restaurant, the chef

places orders for the same ingredients

week in and week out. But at

restaurants devoted to local ingredients,

the menu changes seasonally,

sometimes weekly, often daily. The

chef does not request a set list of

ingredients, but his suppliers—from

organic lettuce growers to pig farmers—tell

him what they’ve got, and he

works those elements into the menu.

By buying local, restaurants support

small businesses and stimulate

the local economy. Not only is

homegrown food better for you, but

58 WILKES

Farro served at

Lark in Seattle

it tastes fresher, too. For proof, visit

any of these top notch locavore

establishments.

Lark in Seattle

Seattle, Washington

Chef/Owner: John Sundstrom

To be as sustainable and supportive

of local growers and suppliers as

possible, chef Sundstrom is

extremely flexible with the Lark

menu, adjusting it weekly to reflect

even small seasonal changes. These

changes might be as simple as

going from chanterelles to porcini

mushrooms in a given dish, or

inventing an entirely new preparation

of an entrée. Apart from five or

ANDRE BARANOWSKI

six classic dishes, the entire menu

changes over the course of a

month. Such flexibility allows the

chef to work with a number of

small producers with limited quantities

of high-quality provisions.

Dressing Room

Westport, Connecticut

Chef/Owner: Michel Nischan

Executive Chef: John Holzwarth

When getting this cutting-edge,

homegrown restaurant off the

ground, it helped that the late

great actor and philanthropist Paul

Newman was in cahoots with

James Beard Foundation awardwinning

chef and sustainable agriculture

activist Michel Nischan. Its

“cuisine of well-being” focuses on

pure, flavorful, local and organic

ingredients. The motto: “We

believe that the food we grow and

cook in the place that we call home

defines who we are.” There’s a parlor

game that foodies play—coming

up with a menu for their ideal

“last meal.” Whatever chefs

Nischan and Holzwarth are cooking

that day is probably a safe bet.

They also operate Wholesome

Wave Farmers Markets (June–Oct.;

Thurs. 10am–2pm).

ANNABEL BRAITHWAITE / BELATHEE

Proof on Main

Louisville, Kentucky

Chef: Michael Paley

Chef Paley is acclaimed for his

farm-to-table menu and his support

of regional farmers and purveyors,

including Woodland Farm,

home to the Kentucky Bison

Company (hence some mightyfine

Bison Burgers on the menu).

The bar extends the locavore philosophy

by offering seasonal specialty

cocktails flavored with herbs

from its rooftop garden.

Spoonriver

Minneapolis, Minnesota

Chef/Owner: Brenda Langton

Being in the farm belt certainly

helps chef Langton fulfill her mis-

59 WILKES

sion to provide delicious dishes

made from organic, locally-grown,

seasonal ingredients. Long a pioneer

in the locavore movement,

Langton’s Spoonriver menu features

a natural, gourmet cuisine.

Their Mill City Farmers’ Market

is also worth checking out (May-

Oct.; Sat. 8am-1pm).

The Squeaky Bean

Denver, Colorado

Chef: Max MacKissock

You know you’ve got a good thing

going when “restaurant people”—

other chefs, cooks and wait staff—

come to eat at your place. Chef

MacKissock creates scrumptious

food and mouth-watering cocktails

from seasonally-fresh and local

ingredients. He’s quite resourceful

in this pursuit—turning an abandoned

alleyway behind the restaurant

into an urban garden and setting

up a farmers’ market on the

restaurant’s patio. The Squeaky

Bean Farmers’ Market at Aspen

Moon Farms is open Thursdays

from 3pm to dusk.

Okay, go ahead and make a

reservation. But to get fully on

board the sustainable boat, explore

other locavore/homegrown restaurants

in your area. Ask them about

their suppliers. Learn about what

foods grow in your region and

when they are seasonally available.

Find out about local farmers’ markets.

And, if you really want to become

a poster child for the locavore/

homegrown movement, take a class

or attend a lecture at the Stone

Barns Center for Food and

Agriculture

(www.stonebarnscenter.org) in

Pocantico Hills, NY, where chefs

and foodies come to worship at the

“homegrown shrine.”

Still Life Photography by Carin and David Riley

Fashion Photography by Sergio Kurhajec

We are introducing four new world-renowned jewelry

designers that we are confi dent you will love! Our new

jewelry department is the perfect place to meet friends

and loved ones to select pieces with which to

commemorate all the best things in life.

Come See

Wilkes Bashford’s

New Jewlery

Department!

THIS PAGE: LAVENDER CHALCEDONY DRUZE

EARRINGS BY KIMBERLY MCDONALD

OPPOSITE PAGE: CARPE DIEM CHARM, GOLD LOCKET

& LARGE LOVE FOB BY MONICA RICH KOSSAN

Make Her Sparkle... on her wedding day, her

birthday, her anniversary, or any day, even if

it’s just to celebrate life & love...

THIS PAGE: TEMPLE ST. CLAIR CHAKRIAN FLORAL EARRINGS

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR 18K ROSE GOLD COLLECTION

OPPOSITE PAGE: DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH 18K WHITE GOLD

BRIDAL COLLECTION

Update your

wardrobe with

touches of

purple—rich,

royal and ever

remarkable. In

suits, sweaters,

shirts and

accessories,

Spring 2010

fashion is

popping with

purple.

PURPLE REIGNS

Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

Photography by MICHAEL TAMMARO

MARKET EDITOR: JOHN JONES

ASSISTANT: TARA FERRI

HAIR: LUKE BAKER FOR SEE MANAGEMENT

MAKEUP: REGINA HARRIS FOR SEE MANAGEMENT

MODEL: RACHAEL SCOTT FOR MAJOR MODEL MANAGEMENT

MODEL: ERIK ROCCA/DNA MODEL MANAGEMENT

JEWELRY BY ROBIN ROTENIER

1

LE CENTRAL

453 Bush Street, 415.391.2233 4

ALLEGRO ROMANO

1701 Jones Street, 415.928.4002 7

“Favorite lunch spot with

“A small and intimate

Mayor Willie Brown, you’ll

fi nd me here everyday.”

BIX

56 Gold Street, 415.433.6300

restaurant in the Russian Hill

area and the owner Lorenzo

couldn’t be more charming.” 8

2

3

“Lively dinner crowd and

active bar, on alley in antique

district.”

NORTH BEACH RESTAURANT

1512 Stockton, 415.392.1587

“A local favorite.

Wonderful Italian food. The

zabaglione is to die for.”

PLUS...

5

6

WILKES BASHFORD’S

TOPTEN

SAN FRANCISCO

RESTAURANTS & HOT SPOTS

Since opening his fi rst San Francisco store in the 1960s, Wilkes Bashford stores have been a part of

the city's fabric and Mr. Bashford himself has never been bashful about enjoying the local nightlife

and party scene. Anyone who dines at his favorite restaurant, Le Central, is likely to see him palling

around with longtime best friend, Willie Brown. Here, the arbiter of style shares his favorite dining

establishments and watering holes in the city he loves so much... in no particular order.

BEST ICE CREAM

MITCHELLS ICE CREAM

688 San Jose Avenue @ 28th Street

415.648.2300

“Appropriate name, given my

new business partners. My

favorite fl avors are coff ee

and caramel vanilla. ”

BEST CANDY STORE

CANDY DARLING

798 Sutter Street

415.346.1500

“Perfect to satisfy

your sweet tooth

after a long day of

shopping. ”

GARY DANKO

800 North Point, 415.749.2060

“Excellent food.

Elegant service and decor.

Book well in advance.”

1300

1300 Fillitore St., 415.771.7100

“Soul food in the

Jazz District. Excellent fried ed

chicken and short ribs.”

TOP OF THE LINE SHOE SHINE

CROCKER GALLERIA

50 Post at Montgomery

415.393.1505

“Their $10 shoe shine

is a good investment

toward making quality

shoes last longer.”

9

10

BACCO

737 Diamond St., 415.282.4969

“Love the rigatoni.”

FIREFLY

4288 24th St. 415.821.7652

“Go when the fried chicken is

on the menu. It’s usually on

for a few weeks at a time, and

they’ll notify you by e-mail.”

RNM

598 Haight St., 415.551.7900

“Small, local crowd.

Excellent food.”

HARRY DENTON’S “STARLIGHT ROOM”

450 Powell St., 415.392.7755

“For drinks with a view.”

unabashedly wilkes

DUTCHIE’S FAVORITES

DIGGIDY DOG — A DOG & CAT BOUTIQUE

SW Corner of Mission & Ocean Avenues

Carmel-by-the-Sea, 831.625.1585

“Best in Show Fashion.”

PAMPERED PETS DOG GROOMING

111 Park Place, Millbrae, 650.952.7600

“Grooming fi t for a Dutchess.”

It is not just our trademark. It is our tradition.

Three simple lines that revolutionized an industry.

A timeless embroidery unique in construction and durability.

experience the original.

��

world scene

MYSTERY TOUR

While Kensington Palace undergoes renovations this spring in

preparation for the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, the historic royal

home will become "The Enchanted Palace," a unique experience

combining fashion, live theatre and spectacle. Mysterious

characters will lead visitors on a journey through the palace to

learn its tales of love and hate, surprise and sadness, secrets

and jealousy. In the magnificent state apartments, guests will

encounter a series of installations featuring contemporary

fashion by both leading and up-and-coming designers,

inspired by the palace’s Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.

SMALL LUXURY HOTELS OF THE WORLD

76 WILKES

ROYAL WELCOME

If a stark, modern high-rise hotel isn't your cup of tea, try The Goring.

Quintessentially English, gently unconventional, and right around the

corner from Buckingham Palace, the five-star Goring dates back to 1910

and is still owned and run by the same family. The charismatic staff wears

bright blue or pink ties decorated with sheep and welcomes guests like

old friends. The decor is magnificently traditional, the amenities state of

the art. There's even a historical connection with the States: During World

War I the hotel was headquarters for American officers stationed in

London. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, The Goring isn't

just a place to sleep, it's a lovely part of the London experience.

“The man who is tired of London is tired of life.”—Samuel Johnson

By Donald Charles Richardson

IMAGE COURTESY OF HISTORIC ROYAL PALACES

MODERN ENGLISH

Few countries can put on a show like England, where

pageantry is a way of life. Naturally, uniforms are an

integral part of the spectacle. And uniforms did much to

inspire Savile Row tailoring, designed to make a man

look classic and well-proportioned. Historically, well

turned-out gentlemen around the world have looked to

Savile Row for the style and structure of their suits. For

2010, the legendary street is advocating natural shoulders,

two-button or double-breasted jackets, and patterns

such as checks and plaids. For a contemporary

take on Savile Row tailoring, well-dressed men here in

the States are now opting for made-to-measure clothing.

GETTY 1

ANTIQUE FANCY

A pleasant stroll down historic Kensington

Church Street offers the chance to visit over

60 antiques shops. Stop in at Rafferty &

Walwyn Ltd. and discover a captivating collection

of period English clocks from the

17th to 19th centuries crafted in mahogany,

walnut, ebony, tortoiseshell, ormolu, brass, or

marble. Ask the owners to let you chose one

of six different songs to play on the fanciful

musical bracket clock by Benjamin Barber

when, on the hour, the windmill turns, lovers

disappear behind a curtain and a drummer

strikes the time. Right down the street,

there's Michael German Antiques Ltd.,

where you'll find a striking collection of over

1,000 canes. A standout from 1880 has a tortoiseshell

veneer shaft and an 18K gold handle

inset with precious stones. Clocks and

canes make wonderful gifts or souvenirs and

(traveler's tip) if you buy one over 100 years

old, you don't have to pay duty.

HAIR APPARENT

The tradition of British barbering goes back over two centuries. Today, the latest

exponent of the craft bows politely to the institution while making a clear cut into

the future. Murdock London Barbers and Gentleman's Grooming has three locations

in the trendiest and most fashionable parts of the city. They offer the classic

shave with badger brush, moustache and beard trims, and beard re-shaping as well

as a conservative hair trim, manicure and shoe polishing. More than a staid British

barbershop, these artists can also modernize your look with a contemporary haircut.

Make it your first stop to improve for all those vacation photographs.

SCOTTISH LAIR

Future chief of the legendary Macdonald clan, Ranald Macdonald is also the captain

of Boisdale of Belgravia, one of London's most memorable restaurants. You can

savor a simple meal at the bar or dine lavishly on Scottish salmon, the game of the

day, or grass-fed Aberdeen beef. There's an impressive wine list that ranges from

Vina del Alba Albarino by the glass for £5.75 to a 1999 Richebourg Gros Frere et

Soeur for £290 a bottle, along with superb clarets and ports, a separate whiskey list,

and a dessert menu featuring roast Victorian plums. The Boisdale Cigar Terrace on

the roof boasts cigars from all over the world (including 120 different sizes and vintages

of Cuban cigars). To keep the aficionado comfortable, the lounge features

cushions, sofas and armchairs in the traditional Macdonald tartan and cashmere

blankets in Boisdale livery brought over especially from Scotland.

77 WILKES

destinations

CAUSE TRAVELING

ervice trips have been

trendy for a few years,

so by now most people

know that a “voluntour”

offers the

opportunity to give

back all over the

world. But with working Americans

logging more hours than ever in a

tough economy, all but the most

selfless among us are craving fun

when we finally get time off.

Luckily, it’s no longer necessary to

forego a good time when voluntouring.

A new wave of trips has met the

demand for service paired with the

perfect amount of letting loose.

Planeterra, a non-profit eco-tourism

firm, recently added new “independent

tours” to its roster, allowing travelers

to combine four or more days of

volunteer work with adventure activities,

sightseeing and downtime. Says

director Richard G. Edwards, “Our programs

are designed with great care, so

that everyone genuinely benefits while

having fun learning about each other’s

cultures.”

Think of voluntourism as the

chance to go somewhere you wouldn’t

have gone otherwise, or to

become more deeply immersed in a

place you’ve always dreamed of visiting.

A senior-level business manager

by day, Leslie Oman of Toronto

had bigger dreams. “I made it a personal

goal to see all of the New

Seven Wonders of the World,” she

says, “and I thought it would be

great to combine my travels with

volunteering all over the world.”

The first spot on Oman’s list was

Macchu Picchu, and after some

research, she found an itinerary that

provided the best of both worlds. “I

was hoping to really learn about the

culture when I visited. On most

trips to Peru, you fly in, get on a

bus, and by day two you’re already

hiking the Inca Trail. Then you

leave the next day. But on my trip,

we worked for several days in an atrisk

children’s center, then we went

to a village in the Sacred Valley and

stayed with a “village Mama,” helping

with the crops and meal preparation.

By the time I was hiking the

Inca Trail, I had a deep understand-

78 WILKES

BECOME MORE DEEPLY IMMERSED

IN A PLACE YOU’VE ALWAYS

DREAMED OF VISITING.

Voluntourism gets a much-needed dose of fun. By Jillian Sprague

The most

rewarding

experience

in any

destination

is getting to

know the

local

people,

learning

firsthand

about their

culture

“BY THE TIME I WAS HIKING THE INCA TRAIL, I HAD A DEEP UNDERSTANDING

OF THE CULTURE, HISTORY AND STRUGGLES OF THE PEOPLE OF PERU.”

Head to

beautiful

Costa Rica

for some

fun in the

sun as you

care for

nesting sea

turtles and

their eggs

ing of the culture, history and struggles

of the people of Peru.”

If you don’t have a specific destination

in mind, choose a voluntour

that lets you follow your passion.

Animal lovers can travel with

Biosphere Expeditions to monitor

wolf and lynx populations in the

Tatra Mountains of Slovakia. More

of a humanitarian? Asia

Transpacific Journeys will send you

to Myanmar, where you’ll make

ceramic water filters that provide

drinking water to underdeveloped

parts of rural Asia.

When you’ve had fun, explored

your interests and done something

to help those who really need it, you

Defining Luxury

The Signature Penny in Silk/Satin Finish Body Alligator

Made by Skilled Artisans and Family Owned Since 1909

can feel good about yourself and

return to the daily grind with

renewed energy—and unforgettable

memories.

79 FORUM

For information on these and

other itineraries, check out planeterra.org,

biosphere-expeditions.org

and asiatranspacific.com.

��

Socks! Great colors, patterns, cool,

funky, preppy... They’re a fun,

inexpensive way to add spice to

any outfit.

Novelty cufflinks are also really

popular. They add personality

to your look... a lot of people are

wearing cufflinks that showcase

their hobbies, sports, pets... you

can be creative.

��

Absolutely. They come

in so many styles,

colors and textures, and

you can use a different

“fold,” depending on

whether you want to be

conservative, serious,

silly, etc. Pocket

squares are like the

“mood ring” of men’s

fashion!

��

Bags! Men have gone long

enough without them! Men are

now carrying not only great laptop

or “commuter” cases, but are

buying great oversized leather

bags and using them as airplane

carry-ons, overnight bags, even

for the gym. We carry a line

called Moore & Giles... they make

gorgeous “man bags.” It’s truly the

ultimate gift for the man who has

everything.

spirits

82 WILKES

“PARA TODO MAL, MEZCAL Y PARA TODO

BIEN TAMBIEN.” FOR EVERYTHING BAD,

MEZCAL, AND FOR EVERYTHING GOOD, TOO.

MARVELOUS MEZCALS

Tequila isn’t the only premium spirit South

of the Border. By Robert Haynes-Peterson

It took 10 long years, but you know

your tequilas. You even know why

Patron isn’t what it was a decade

ago. But have you been paying

attention to Mezcal, tequila’s hermano?

Mezcal—that harsh stuff with

the worm in it you got sick on in

college—has cleaned up good and is

ready for another look.

“Mezcal is where tequila was several

years ago, in terms of acceptance,”

says Junior Merino, the

Mexican-born “Liquid Chef” and the

brains behind the delectable cocktail

menus at Manhattan’s Macondo

and Rayuela restaurants.

In fact, tequila is a mezcal, albeit

one restricted to a specific kind of

agave (the Blue Weber) and three

specific growing/distilling regions of

Mexico. Mezcal, on the other hand,

can use up to 25 or 30 varieties of the

300 types of agave growing in

Mexico (impacting the nose and flavor

profile), and originates in several

regions (though much mezcal hails

from the state of Oaxaca). “There’s

even a mezcal, called raicilla, distilled

in the tequila region,” says Merino.

“Like the Super Tuscans, it’s a tequila

style that doesn’t follow the rules set

for what can be called ‘tequila.’”

“I recommend mezcal to people

who like single malts, because it has

a similar smoky nature,” Merino

continues. Most mezcal is still handcrafted

in small batches and cooked

in underground ovens, adding a

smoky, peaty complexity. Like tequilas,

they can be aged (though for the

most part they aren’t). “We have one

of the few aged mezcals on the market,”

says John Rexer, founder of

Ilegal Mezcal. “The idea is to never

bury the flavor of the agave.”

Flavorful they are, cheap and

harsh they don’t have to be.

Premium and super-premium mezcals

are entering the U.S. market at

a surprising clip. Sombra ($50), part

of the Classic and Vintage Artisanal

Spirits portfolio, is an excellent

place to start: Smoky and filling on

the mouth, it’s rich like a single malt

and crafted for sipping (as are most

mezcals). When you’re ready to

explore, hunt down Mijes Reposado

($65), a distinctive spicy, peaty spirit

with iodine notes (that’s a good

thing). If you insist on having a bug

at the bottom of your bottle,

Scorpion Mezcal is a high-quality

product, boasting a remarkable

Gran Reserva 7-Year-Old ($200)

with, you guessed it, a scorpion resting

at the bottom.

Sombra

Mezcal, from

Oaxaca, is a

far cry from

the wormsoaked

hooch

you thought

was mezcal

in college

IMAGES COURTESY OF SOMBRA MEZCAL/CLASSIC AND VINTAGE ARTISANAL SPIRITS

essay

ITALIAN FLAIR

Effortless dressing never looked so good.

By Beth Bernstein

Before Paolo, I’d never met a guy

whose suits, shirts and accessories

were custom made. Since high

school, I had dated a certain type:

creative and soulful with a somewhat

disheveled wardrobe to match.

I finally realized these were not the

kind of guys likely to commit to

much beyond poetry readings.

Paolo seemed perfect in every

way. During our first dinner together,

I noticed the small initials sewn

into his suit jacket, the intricate

enamel cuff links, the vintage watch

and the beautiful eggplant silk tie. I

was also falling in love with the sexy

accent, the dry wit and the confidence

with which he ordered dinner.

Our next outing was casual—he

showed up wearing Levi’s 501s and a

T-shirt. Like many Italian-born men,

he was able to pull it off effortlessly.

What is it about Italian culture that

allows men to care about fashion

and grooming without stigma?

“When I turned 17, my father presented

me with a beautiful Jaeger-

LeCoultre timepiece,” Paolo once

told me. “We lived in Milan and

many of the boys receive watches as

graduation gifts.” In contrast, my

American-born brothers received

83 WILKES

He was the

wrong man

in the right

clothes.

down payments for their first cars.

Today, they still think that dressing

for dinner means putting on a Gap

sport shirt rather than a favorite

football jersey.

As our relationship evolved, I

learned of Paolo’s penchant for mixing

colors, for knowing the difference

between cordovan and chocolate

brown. He never got bored

while I tried on clothes, making sure

that the shoulders on a lambskin

jacket fit me perfectly and that the

leather was hand-stitched. For Paolo,

it wasn’t about labels or impressing

people. It was about personal style

and an inherent ability to dress with

a certain nonchalance.

Ultimately, it was this nonchalance

that did us in. Although he

could easily commit to French cuffs,

Paolo was no closer to making a

commitment to me than the artistic

types of my past had been. He was

the wrong man in the right clothes.

Still, I have hope. While American

men I meet these days rarely dress

as well as Paolo, I’m noticing more

cashmere and custom tailoring than

ever before. And that cute guy who

just smiled at me? He’s wearing cuff

links with his 501s. I’m smiling back.

��

In order to help you better integrate your

new seasonal purchases with the old, we

offer our clients a complimentary closet

consultation. One of our professional

sales associates will personally visit your

home to inventory your closet, providing

suggestions on how to creatively mix and

match your existing wardrobe. One of our

experienced tailors can also be on hand,

to provide any fitting or re-adjustments

you may need. And if you so desire, we will

provide a photographic catalogue of your

wardrobe for further reference.

��

A loose thread or button can be just the

thing that unravels your day. Bring in any

suits or outerwear with buttons that need

assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten

them for you, on site and free of charge. We

like to see you looking your best, down to

the details.

��

Our long-term sales associates have been

with us for an average of 16 years, and are

passionate about counseling our customers

and advising them on all clothing and

accessory matters. They are willing to go

the extra mile to ensure that your shopping

experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll

even take a trip to your home or office to

give you a personal closet consultation,

providing suggestions on how to creatively

mix and match your existing wardrobe.

��

A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that

always fits! Our gift cards are available for

purchase in store or over the phone, in any

denomination. If you can’t make it to the

store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift

card up and ship it to the recipient for you!

��

Trust our professional sales associates

to put together the ultimate outfit and

coordinate you from head to toe. To

alleviate confusion when you get home, we

will happily photograph your ensembles,

providing a catalogue you can refer to time

after time.

��

In order to ensure that the fit is

just right, we offer complimentary

alterations on all of our clothing. Down

to the detail of the stitching, we ensure

each article is tailored specifically to

you. Our on-site team of world-class

tailors is ready to assure that you always

bring home a perfect fit.

��

We off er complimentary gift-wrapping for

your purchases, on any day you want. You

concentrate on choosing the perfect gift;

we’ll do the rest.

��

Developing lasting personal relationships

helps our sales associates select items that

they know you will enjoy, and ease your

shopping experience.

��

Service is important to us, not only in our

store, but also in our community. We will

help you clear out those unwanted items

that have been cluttering up your closet,

while providing for a good cause. All

discarded items will be donated to a local

charity — we will coordinate the donation

and make the delivery ourselves.

��

Our personal shoppers are available to

make your experience here as eff ortless as

possible. For your convenience, they will

pre-select a wardrobe to fi t your clothing

needs, placing the garments in a private

fi tting room. Once our associates have

learned your style and needs, they can keep

an eye out for specifi c items you might be

looking for in the future. Call our stores for

more information.

��

It impacts every facet of our business,

from our ability to bring you worldclass

fashions to the friendly,

knowledgeable sales associates who

help and guide you. You, our customers

and friends, are ultimately at the

heart of all that we do, and we strive to

constantly exceed your expectations. If

for some reason you feel that the level

of service we provide does not meet

your expectations, please let us know.

FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford

FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford ... View more FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford

Delete template?

Save as template ?

FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford FH;C?;H; ?IIK; - Wilkes Bashford