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“Here we live in a marble & bronze hotel, very expensive and<br />
luxurious: horrible place: makes me Bolshevik.” —T.E. Lawrence<br />
(But <strong>Winston</strong> <strong>Churchill</strong> didn’t feel Bolshy at all....)<br />
Left: The opulent <strong>Churchill</strong> Suite,<br />
elaborately furnished in Egyptian<br />
décor, rents for $1880 per night<br />
inclusive of taxes and service<br />
charge, plus whatever you care to<br />
tip the help. We wonder what it<br />
cost the American hosts in 1943<br />
Above right: Lynn Druckman in the<br />
luxurious living room, with historic<br />
<strong>Churchill</strong> photographs adorning<br />
the walls and majestic oriental<br />
carpets underfoot.<br />
Far right: The author at <strong>Churchill</strong>’s<br />
desk, with Yousuf Karsh’s famous<br />
photograph adorning the wall.<br />
Right: After being greeted by a<br />
band playing the triumphal scene<br />
from “Aida,” the party was<br />
enjoying a lovely hot buffet when<br />
the manager offered to show Lynn<br />
and David the <strong>Churchill</strong> Suite. They<br />
missed dessert.<br />
MENA HOUSE, CAIRO...<br />
At Cairo the United States agreed to “a considerable<br />
amphibious operation across the Bay of Bengal” (northeast<br />
Indian Ocean, between India and Burma) within the next<br />
few months. This would have cramped the invasion of<br />
France (Operation Overlord) and Italy, to which <strong>Churchill</strong><br />
objected, and the plan was eventually dropped.<br />
Overlord was discussed amongst the U.S. and British<br />
military chiefs. Meetings were held with President Ismet<br />
Inönü, of Turkey, attempting unsuccessfully to cajole him<br />
into entering the war. The conference ended with a joint<br />
“Cairo Declaration”: that “Japan be stripped of all the<br />
islands in the Pacific which she has seized or occupied since<br />
the beginning of the First World War in 1914, all the territories<br />
Japan has stolen from the Chinese, such as<br />
Manchuria, Formosa, and the Pescadores, shall be restored<br />
to the Republic of China, and that in due course Korea<br />
shall become free and independent.” 3<br />
My wife Lynn and I were on an Eastern<br />
Mediterranean Celebrity cruise with only a day’s stop in<br />
Alexandria. We pre-paid for Lynn to visit the Bibliotheca<br />
Alexandrina and for me to see El Alamein, the turning<br />
point of the war in North Africa, 106 km west of<br />
Alexandria. Since we were seasoned cruisers, Celebrity<br />
offered us free round trips to Giza instead. “Provided we<br />
may also have a look at Mena House,” I said, “we accept<br />
the substitute itinerary.” (Lynn, however, required a concession,<br />
of which more anon.)<br />
At Mena House we were greeted like visiting<br />
pharaohs. As we walked up steps, seven costumed<br />
Egyptians played the triumphal scene from “Aida”!<br />
They ushered us in to a hot buffet lunch in the expansive<br />
and elegant thousand-seat ballroom.<br />
Suddenly I remembered that <strong>Churchill</strong> had stayed<br />
here during the 1943 “Sextant” Conference, and beckoned<br />
to the obliging hotel manager, who offered us a tour of the<br />
<strong>Churchill</strong> Suite. (We missed dessert.)<br />
Exiting a private elevator, the three of us entered the<br />
<strong>Churchill</strong> Suite and the hallway which led to its various<br />
rooms, all in elaborate Egyptian décor. The rooms were in<br />
use by guests, but fortunately empty, and the manager made<br />
sure we were shown the two bathrooms, of which he was<br />
particularly proud. Off the living room is a tree-lined<br />
terrace with a magnificent view of the pyramids, just 700<br />
meters away.<br />
FINEST HOUR 148 / 24