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“Here we live in a marble & bronze hotel, very expensive and<br />

luxurious: horrible place: makes me Bolshevik.” —T.E. Lawrence<br />

(But <strong>Winston</strong> <strong>Churchill</strong> didn’t feel Bolshy at all....)<br />

Left: The opulent <strong>Churchill</strong> Suite,<br />

elaborately furnished in Egyptian<br />

décor, rents for $1880 per night<br />

inclusive of taxes and service<br />

charge, plus whatever you care to<br />

tip the help. We wonder what it<br />

cost the American hosts in 1943<br />

Above right: Lynn Druckman in the<br />

luxurious living room, with historic<br />

<strong>Churchill</strong> photographs adorning<br />

the walls and majestic oriental<br />

carpets underfoot.<br />

Far right: The author at <strong>Churchill</strong>’s<br />

desk, with Yousuf Karsh’s famous<br />

photograph adorning the wall.<br />

Right: After being greeted by a<br />

band playing the triumphal scene<br />

from “Aida,” the party was<br />

enjoying a lovely hot buffet when<br />

the manager offered to show Lynn<br />

and David the <strong>Churchill</strong> Suite. They<br />

missed dessert.<br />

MENA HOUSE, CAIRO...<br />

At Cairo the United States agreed to “a considerable<br />

amphibious operation across the Bay of Bengal” (northeast<br />

Indian Ocean, between India and Burma) within the next<br />

few months. This would have cramped the invasion of<br />

France (Operation Overlord) and Italy, to which <strong>Churchill</strong><br />

objected, and the plan was eventually dropped.<br />

Overlord was discussed amongst the U.S. and British<br />

military chiefs. Meetings were held with President Ismet<br />

Inönü, of Turkey, attempting unsuccessfully to cajole him<br />

into entering the war. The conference ended with a joint<br />

“Cairo Declaration”: that “Japan be stripped of all the<br />

islands in the Pacific which she has seized or occupied since<br />

the beginning of the First World War in 1914, all the territories<br />

Japan has stolen from the Chinese, such as<br />

Manchuria, Formosa, and the Pescadores, shall be restored<br />

to the Republic of China, and that in due course Korea<br />

shall become free and independent.” 3<br />

My wife Lynn and I were on an Eastern<br />

Mediterranean Celebrity cruise with only a day’s stop in<br />

Alexandria. We pre-paid for Lynn to visit the Bibliotheca<br />

Alexandrina and for me to see El Alamein, the turning<br />

point of the war in North Africa, 106 km west of<br />

Alexandria. Since we were seasoned cruisers, Celebrity<br />

offered us free round trips to Giza instead. “Provided we<br />

may also have a look at Mena House,” I said, “we accept<br />

the substitute itinerary.” (Lynn, however, required a concession,<br />

of which more anon.)<br />

At Mena House we were greeted like visiting<br />

pharaohs. As we walked up steps, seven costumed<br />

Egyptians played the triumphal scene from “Aida”!<br />

They ushered us in to a hot buffet lunch in the expansive<br />

and elegant thousand-seat ballroom.<br />

Suddenly I remembered that <strong>Churchill</strong> had stayed<br />

here during the 1943 “Sextant” Conference, and beckoned<br />

to the obliging hotel manager, who offered us a tour of the<br />

<strong>Churchill</strong> Suite. (We missed dessert.)<br />

Exiting a private elevator, the three of us entered the<br />

<strong>Churchill</strong> Suite and the hallway which led to its various<br />

rooms, all in elaborate Egyptian décor. The rooms were in<br />

use by guests, but fortunately empty, and the manager made<br />

sure we were shown the two bathrooms, of which he was<br />

particularly proud. Off the living room is a tree-lined<br />

terrace with a magnificent view of the pyramids, just 700<br />

meters away.<br />

FINEST HOUR 148 / 24

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