Volume 3 | Issue 1 - Origlio Beverage

THE
AMERICAN
INDUSTRY:
A Classic “Come-from-Behind” Victory
By Steve Hawk, Philly Beer Geek 2010
Beer was destined to be the alcoholic beverage of choice in America.
We inherited this tradition from our earliest settlers from England who
loved their ale and strengthened our bond with the beverage in the 19th
century when a new influx of German immigrants introduced the lager
style to our nation.
The beer produced in America at that time was different from its European
counterparts. It was made from America’s six-row barley, as opposed to
the two-row variety available in Europe. The grain mixture was adjusted
by adding up to 30% corn to the barley malt mash, but it was brewed to
full-fledged European strength, yielding a full-bodied and slightly sweeter
beverage. By the early 20th century, there were about 1,400 breweries
operating in the U.S. and Americans of every walk of life were enjoying
their beer. Then the unthinkable happened.
In 1920, the U.S. Congress passed the 18th Amendment banning the
sale, manufacture and transportation of alcohol. Every brewery closed
its doors, except the few that began manufacturing “Near Beer” or other
beverages. Prohibition continued until 1933. It was a devastating blow to
America’s beer industry.
Recovery from this 13-year dry spell was slow and further impacted by
the start of World War II. When America entered the War in 1941, the
beer industry had still not fully recovered, plus brewers faced the added
challenge of having to use ingredients that were not limited through
rationing.
Most breweries, therefore, used less barley and added rice as a filler.
This lightened the flavor of the beer, making it more appealing to the new
female consumers. After the war ended, the process was not substantially
changed. To this day, much of the beer consumed in America still
follows that same style.
There was, however, a breakthrough in the beer industry in 1978 that
added a whole new dimension to beer consumption. The U.S. Congress
passed an act signed by President Carter exempting home brewed beer
from taxation, and thereby, encouraging the practice of homebrewing.
Beer drinkers who craved more exotic flavors now had the option of
brewing it themselves and homebrewing became a very popular hobby.
A few homebrewers were so successful they eventually expanded their
operations. Before long, hundreds of small breweries and brewpubs
sprang up across the nation, producing beer for its distinction and flavor
rather than mass appeal. This new genre of beer soon became known
as “craft beer”.
No one could have imagined the excitement this phenomenon would
generate. Beer went from being a beverage to a full-blown culture. In
2004, the craft beer industry was featured in a documentary film called
American Beer. Additionally, “Beer Week” celebrations and other events
started popping up all over the country. The number of microbreweries
skyrocketed and the popularity of America’s beer culture was evinced
by beer-themed magazines, home brew clubs and internet websites. I,
myself, am a product of this enthusiasm, as I proudly hold the title of
Philly Beer Geek 2010.
Of course, all of this excitement couldn’t possibly be contained on this
side of the Atlantic. So it begs the question, how does this new trend play
out in the beer drinking tradition of Europe, where our ancestors came
from
The fact is, demand for America’s beer is high overseas, but importing
costs are very expensive and the price tends to scare off importers, bars
and shops. Additionally, European breweries are less likely to brew craft
beer themselves. Brewing traditions and regulations, like Germany’s
Reinheitsgebot (the Purity Law which limits beer to only four main ingredients),
make it difficult for brewers to be creative. Nevertheless, some
European breweries, particularly in Denmark and Norway, are crossing
the line to emulate their American counterparts by using American hops
and American styles of brewing. Also, Stone Brewing Company, based
in Escondido, California, plans to be the first American craft brewery to
construct a facility in Europe.
Obviously, the stigma of America’s Prohibition era is long past. Beer is
the most popular alcoholic beverage in America today and Europe is
eyeing us with envy. That’s quite a comeback for a product that was
banned for more than a decade. I personally have been cheering from
the sidelines since I took my first sip of my grandfather’s brew. It feels
good to back a winner!
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