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All Outlet Eyes Turn to Asia - Value Retail News

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ChiNa<br />

<strong>Outlet</strong> development in China:<br />

Opportunities and challenges<br />

By LINDA HUMPHERS<br />

Edi<strong>to</strong>r in Chief<br />

In recent months the global outlet<br />

industry has been intensely focused on<br />

<strong>Asia</strong> in general and China in particular.<br />

Although purpose-built outlet<br />

development started in China nearly a<br />

decade ago, the country is still the new<br />

kid on the block for the Western-style<br />

concept that retailers are most comfortable<br />

tenanting. But for its sheer size<br />

and potential, China is quite properly in<br />

the spotlight. In fact, Chinese shoppers<br />

and their well-documented passion for<br />

luxury brands have become sought-after<br />

and targeted by outlet-center opera<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

in Japan, Europe and the U.S.<br />

The opening of Yansha Youyi Shopping<br />

City in 2002 was quickly followed<br />

by a spate of imita<strong>to</strong>rs that gathered a<br />

hodgepodge of brands under one roof,<br />

generally outside a main city, usually<br />

near an expressway interchange. Some<br />

say more than 200 such value centers<br />

are masquerading as outlet projects,<br />

whereas Yiqun Wang and Xingo Jian,<br />

in their report for ICSC on the rise of<br />

FOCs in Mainland China, count around<br />

30 solid outlet centers tenanted by<br />

mostly authentic outlet merchandise.<br />

With estimates on China’s middle<br />

class rising <strong>to</strong> nearly 280 million<br />

households in the next 15 years, various<br />

analysts predict that between 100 and<br />

300 cities qualify as outlet markets in<br />

China. And everyone knows that Chinese<br />

shoppers love the outlet centers in<br />

Japan, Europe and the U.S.<br />

But there are some basic challenges<br />

<strong>to</strong> developing outlet centers in China.<br />

For instance, the Chinese government’s<br />

control over land is often mentioned as<br />

the reason that outlet sites there often<br />

aren’t ideal. Another area of concern is<br />

the lack of high standards for maintaining<br />

the outlet proposition of price,<br />

quality and selection.<br />

<strong>Outlet</strong> veteran Gary Skoien says the<br />

lack of brands doing business in China<br />

is a major challenge. On the other<br />

4 InternatIOnal <strong>Outlet</strong> JOurnal SummEr 2011<br />

hand, he says, “I really<br />

believe the demand for<br />

brands is so great that<br />

it will not be difficult<br />

for retailers <strong>to</strong> thrive,<br />

especially if the centers<br />

employ Western<br />

standards of service,<br />

quality and design<br />

while incorporating<br />

an understanding of<br />

the cus<strong>to</strong>mer and local<br />

traditions.” Skoien<br />

is CEO of Horizon<br />

Group Properties,<br />

which is working with<br />

RichlyField in China.<br />

Ivano Poma would<br />

agree with Skoien.<br />

The managing direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

of RDM <strong>Asia</strong>, which is<br />

about <strong>to</strong> open Florentia<br />

Village, its first<br />

outlet center in China,<br />

says the establishment<br />

of consistent management<br />

standards is<br />

the industry’s most<br />

pressing concern there,<br />

but strong consumer<br />

demand will help the industry flourish.<br />

“<strong>All</strong> the major fashion brands are aggressively<br />

– even frantically – planning<br />

their outlet offer so that they don’t miss<br />

the opportunities in China,” Poma said.<br />

“We believe that this trend will inevitably<br />

create the base for our industry <strong>to</strong><br />

prosper. Furthermore, as opposed <strong>to</strong><br />

the typical path in the West, we think<br />

that demand in China will be supported<br />

by increasingly sophisticated supplychain<br />

management at the local level.”<br />

For Poma, the key <strong>to</strong> developing and<br />

tenanting an outlet project in China is<br />

experience. “Our Western logic gives<br />

us a competitive advantage for defining<br />

strategies and approaches,” he said, referring<br />

<strong>to</strong> RDM’s partnership with McArthurGlen<br />

in developing designer outlet<br />

centers in Italy during the last few years.<br />

Chris Milliken, commercial direc<strong>to</strong>r<br />

Citygate <strong>Outlet</strong>s<br />

of Freeport, points out that “In China<br />

there are only a handful of properly<br />

run outlet centers with a relevant mix<br />

of international brands. Most are poor<br />

imitations with little or no connection<br />

<strong>to</strong> the brand or master franchisee.”<br />

Additionally, the availability of s<strong>to</strong>ck<br />

can be an issue for international brands,<br />

Milliken says, noting that import duties<br />

in China are 24 percent of the full<br />

retail price of a product. For companies<br />

that manufacture within China,<br />

there are also regulations and tariffs for<br />

the movement of goods around the<br />

country, all of which means that prices<br />

– even outlet prices – are high in China.<br />

For Milliken, operating standards<br />

are vitally important and the reason<br />

Freeport has joined <strong>Outlet</strong>s China as<br />

an advisor on the developer’s planned<br />

portfolio of Palette <strong>Outlet</strong> projects.<br />

The first is set <strong>to</strong> open in Foshan in<br />

(continued on page 6)

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