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Step by step - Zagreb tourist info

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<strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


Welcome to <strong>Zagreb</strong>!<br />

This selection of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s<br />

cultural and historical sights<br />

will help each visitor to get<br />

to know the city better. <strong>Step</strong><br />

<strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> the life of <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

is presented through the<br />

centuries, from the city’s<br />

foundation to the present<br />

day; from its legends to its<br />

historical figures. You won’t<br />

get lost in the la<strong>by</strong>rinth<br />

of streets because you<br />

can always stop and ask<br />

for directions. You will be<br />

delighted <strong>by</strong> the hospitality<br />

of people in <strong>Zagreb</strong>.<br />

A Walk<br />

through the City<br />

2 The Upper Town<br />

6 Ban Jelačić Square<br />

8 Kaptol<br />

14 Dolac<br />

16 Tkalčićeva<br />

18 Bloody Bridge<br />

19 Radićeva<br />

20 The Stone Gate<br />

22 Opatička<br />

26 St Mark’s Square<br />

32 Catherine’s Square<br />

34 The Strossmayer Promenade<br />

36 The Lower Town<br />

40 Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square<br />

44 King Tomislav Square<br />

48 Marulić Square<br />

50 Marshal Tito Square<br />

54 Masarykova<br />

56 Petar Preradović Square<br />

60 Ilica<br />

64 Jurišićeva<br />

68 Outside the Centre<br />

B <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


The Upper Town<br />

Opatička<br />

Tkalčićeva<br />

The Stone Gate<br />

Kaptol<br />

St Mark’s Square<br />

Dolac<br />

Radićeva<br />

Catherine’s Square<br />

Ban Jelačić Square<br />

The Strossmayer Promenade<br />

2 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 3


The Upper<br />

Town<br />

1. Ban Jelačić Square<br />

2. Kaptol<br />

3. Dolac<br />

4. Tkalčićeva<br />

5. Bloody Bridge<br />

6. Radićeva<br />

7. The Stone Gate<br />

8. Opatička<br />

9. St Mark’s Square<br />

10. Catherine’s Square<br />

11. The Strossmayer<br />

Promenade


1.<br />

Ban Jelačić<br />

Square<br />

Ban Josip<br />

Jelačić<br />

The<br />

Manduševac<br />

Fountain<br />

Ban Jelačić Square<br />

Central focus of modern <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

is Ban Jelačić Square (Trg bana<br />

Jelačića). Situated just below the<br />

hillside settlements of Kaptol<br />

and Gradec, it has served as the<br />

city’s commercial heart ever since<br />

1641, when it was designated<br />

as a place where fairs could<br />

be held. Most of the buildings<br />

around the square date from<br />

the 19 th century, and display a<br />

variety of architectural styles,<br />

from Biedermaier to Art Nouveau<br />

and Post-modernism.The square<br />

was <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s main marketplace<br />

and carried the name “Harmica”<br />

Count Josip<br />

Jelačić Bužimski<br />

(1801. - 1859.).<br />

A general in the<br />

Austrian army and<br />

Governor (“Ban”)<br />

of Croatia from<br />

1848 to 1859,<br />

Jelačić abolished<br />

serfdom and<br />

held the first ever<br />

(Hungarian for “one thirtieth”),<br />

after the tax levied on the goods<br />

that were sold here. In 1848 the<br />

square was officially renamed in<br />

honour of Ban (“Governor”) Josip<br />

Jelačić. After World War II the<br />

name of the square was changed<br />

to “Republic Square”, only to return<br />

to its previous title in 1990. Ban<br />

Jelačić Square stands at the centre<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s social life and the most<br />

popular meeting points are “under<br />

the clock” on the west side of the<br />

square, and “under the horse’s tail”<br />

–a reference to the equestrian statue<br />

of Ban Jelačić in the square’s centre.<br />

elections for the<br />

Croatian Sabor or<br />

Parliament. Jelačić<br />

helped Austrian<br />

forces put down<br />

the Hungarian<br />

Revolution of<br />

1848 in the hope<br />

that this would<br />

lead to greater<br />

autonomy<br />

for Croatia,<br />

although these<br />

aspirations were<br />

to remain fulfilled.<br />

Celebrated as a<br />

national hero<br />

in Croatia, his<br />

portrait currently<br />

graces one side<br />

of the 20 kuna<br />

banknote.<br />

Ban Josip Jelačić<br />

The statue of Ban Josip Jelačić is the<br />

work of the Austrian sculptor Anton<br />

Fernkorn. It was placed on the<br />

square in 1866, only to be removed<br />

<strong>by</strong> the communist authorities in<br />

1947. In 1990 a public petition<br />

secured the return of the statue,<br />

and it was unveiled on October 16 th<br />

– Ban Jelačić’s birthday. Originally<br />

placed facing northwards in order<br />

to symbolize the Ban’s defence of<br />

Croatia’s rights against Austria and<br />

Hungary, the statue<br />

now faces south to<br />

provide a better<br />

balance to the<br />

layout of<br />

the square.<br />

The Manduševac Fountain<br />

The Manduševac Fountain was<br />

built above a natural spring that<br />

provided <strong>Zagreb</strong> with drinking<br />

water right up until the end of<br />

the 19 th century. Court records<br />

about the persecution of witches<br />

mention the spring as their main<br />

meeting point. There is also a<br />

legend connecting the spring with<br />

the name of the city. Namely, one<br />

sunny day an old Croatian war<br />

leader was returning from battle<br />

tired and thirsty, and asked a<br />

beautiful girl Manda to scoop up<br />

some water from the spring for him.<br />

The Croatian word for “to scoop up<br />

water” is “zagrabiti”. So the spring<br />

got the name Manduševac, after<br />

the girl, and the town got the name<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> after the scoop of water.


2. Kaptol<br />

The Cathedral<br />

Characterized <strong>by</strong> its soaring<br />

twin towers, the Cathedral of<br />

the Assumption of the Blessed<br />

Virgin Mary is one of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s<br />

defining symbols. Although it is<br />

a largely Neo-Gothic structure<br />

dating from the late 19 th century,<br />

its origins are much older. The<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> bishopric was established<br />

in 1094, and construction of the<br />

cathedral started soon afterwards.<br />

An early Gothic sanctuary with<br />

polygonal apse was added at the<br />

end of the 13 th century, while the<br />

nave was modified and heightened<br />

during the 14 th and 15 th centuries.<br />

The expansion of the Ottoman<br />

Empire put <strong>Zagreb</strong> within range<br />

of enemy raids, and the cathedral<br />

was fortified <strong>by</strong> adding a turreted<br />

outer wall. Once the danger of<br />

invasion had passed, a single<br />

bell-tower was built in the 17 th<br />

century. At that time the Baroque<br />

became the most prevalent style,<br />

which is today borne out <strong>by</strong> the<br />

richly decorated altars. During<br />

the 18 th century the defensive<br />

bastions on the south and east<br />

were reconstructed to form a<br />

monumental bishop’s palace.<br />

A huge earthquake in 1880 did<br />

enormous damage to the cathedral,<br />

and it was reconstructed along<br />

Neo-Gothic lines, a style that was<br />

popular across Europe at that time.<br />

Local architect Herman Bolle was<br />

in charge of the project, although<br />

the blueprints were provided<br />

<strong>by</strong> Austrian designer Friedrich<br />

von Schmidt. Thus the cathedral<br />

took on its present-day shape<br />

with its slender 105-metre-high<br />

towers dominating the <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

skyline. There is no consensus<br />

about the height among the<br />

inhabitants of the city.<br />

Renaissance Walls<br />

The cathedral’s defensive walls<br />

with round towers were built<br />

when the threat from the Ottoman<br />

Turks was at its height. The<br />

walls were built in record time<br />

between 1512 and 1521. One<br />

tower was demolished during<br />

the 19 th -century rebuilding of<br />

the cathedral to provide an<br />

unobstructed view of the cathedral.<br />

These changes aside, the walls<br />

remain among the best-preserved<br />

Renaissance defences in Europe.<br />

Bishop Duh<br />

The first bishop<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong> was<br />

a Czech called<br />

Duh (which,<br />

appropriately<br />

for a churchman,<br />

literally means<br />

"spirit"). He was<br />

appointed <strong>by</strong> King<br />

Ladislav, founder<br />

of the diocese, in<br />

around 1094. Duh<br />

didn’t remain<br />

head of the<br />

diocese for long,<br />

but he is thought<br />

to have been a<br />

capable and pious<br />

leader. It was<br />

probably Duh who<br />

started building<br />

the cathedral,<br />

having tired of<br />

using one of the<br />

existing churches<br />

as a temporary<br />

episcopal centre.<br />

The stairs<br />

that connect<br />

Tkalčićeva and<br />

Opatovina were<br />

named after him<br />

in his honour.<br />

<strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 9


St <strong>Step</strong>hen’s Chapel<br />

The Treasury<br />

Virgin Mary with Angels<br />

13 th -century bishop Stjepan II built<br />

a chapel beside the cathedral in<br />

honour of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s deliverance<br />

from the Tatar invasion. He<br />

dedicated it to his namesake<br />

St <strong>Step</strong>hen, one of the earliest<br />

Christian martyrs. The chapel was<br />

temporarily used for religious<br />

ceremonies while construction<br />

work continued on the cathedral<br />

itself. In the 18 th century the<br />

chapel was incorporated into<br />

the Bishop’s Palace. The chapel’s<br />

well-preserved 14 th -century<br />

murals constitute a unique<br />

example of Croatian Gothic art.<br />

The Treasury of <strong>Zagreb</strong> cathedral<br />

bears witness to a continuous<br />

history of Christianity in this area<br />

that stretches back 14 centuries.<br />

Liturgical objects made of gold,<br />

silver, wood and parchment<br />

are kept above the cathedral’s<br />

sacristy. The most valuable<br />

and oldest object is the ivory<br />

plenarium illustrated with ten<br />

scenes from the life of Jesus. It<br />

has been in <strong>Zagreb</strong> ever since<br />

11 th century. A thief posing as an<br />

art-loving aristocrat once made<br />

a copy of the plenarium, taking<br />

the original to America where it<br />

was sold. Subsequently recovered,<br />

the original is now preserved<br />

alongside the copy in the treasury.<br />

On the eve of the visit of Pope<br />

John II to <strong>Zagreb</strong>, scenes from<br />

the plenarium were copied<br />

onto the covers of the Book<br />

of Gospels that was presented<br />

to the Holy Father as a gift.<br />

Anton Dominick<br />

Ritter von<br />

Fernkorn<br />

(1813. - 1878.),<br />

Austrian realist<br />

sculptor famous<br />

for his public<br />

statues, many of<br />

which featured<br />

heroic figures on<br />

horseback.<br />

There are several<br />

of his statues<br />

in <strong>Zagreb</strong>:<br />

Ban Jelačić<br />

on horseback,<br />

St George on<br />

horseback,<br />

Mercury in<br />

relief and the<br />

Virgin Mary with<br />

four angels.<br />

After the cathedral had been<br />

reconstructed in the Neo-Gothic<br />

style, a fountain designed <strong>by</strong><br />

Hermann Bollé was built in front<br />

of the cathedral. The Austrian<br />

sculptor Fernkorn was responsible<br />

for the gold-plated statues<br />

of the Virgin Mary and four<br />

angels, the latter symbolizing<br />

the Christian virtues of Faith,<br />

Hope, Innocence and Humility.<br />

10 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


The Cathedral<br />

Renaissance Walls<br />

Virgin Mary<br />

with Angels<br />

Ribnjak Park<br />

The Franciscan<br />

Church<br />

Prišlin’s Tower<br />

St Mary’s Church<br />

Petrica Kerempuh<br />

Ribnjak Park<br />

Ribnjak was originally the<br />

site of the Bishop of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s<br />

fishponds, and it was here that<br />

priests from Kaptol would catch<br />

fish ready for Friday’s evening<br />

meal. Subsequently transformed<br />

into an English-style landscaped<br />

park, Ribnjak now offers exotic<br />

plants, sculptures, benches and<br />

a children’s playground, making<br />

it an ideal spot for relaxation.<br />

The Franciscan Church<br />

A church and monastery have<br />

existed on this spot since the<br />

13 th century, and according to<br />

legend St Francis of Assisi himself<br />

resided here for a time. The<br />

church was rebuilt in Baroque<br />

style in the 17 th century, but<br />

reconstruction work following<br />

the great earthquake of 1880<br />

resulted in the addition of some<br />

Neo-Gothic features on the<br />

outside. The church interior<br />

owes its special ambience to the<br />

modern stained-glass windows<br />

(1961-1964) designed <strong>by</strong> Ivo<br />

Dulčić, in which scenes from the<br />

life of St Francis are depicted.<br />

Within the monastery complex<br />

is a late 17 th -century chapel<br />

built in Baroque style. The<br />

chapel is richly decorated with<br />

stuccowork and murals, one of<br />

which portrays pious <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

noblewoman Katarina Galović<br />

welcoming St Francis to the city.<br />

Prišlin’s Tower<br />

This small park at the end of<br />

Opatovina is something of an<br />

oasis of peace in the bustling<br />

centre of the city. Up until World<br />

War II this was where the priests<br />

of Kaptol had their orchards and<br />

vegetable plots. The park contains<br />

remnants of medieval wall and<br />

a well-preserved defensive<br />

tower, built <strong>by</strong> the inhabitants<br />

of Kaptol when the Ottoman<br />

menace was at its height. The<br />

tower was named after Prišlin,<br />

commander of the town guard.<br />

On summer nights it becomes an<br />

appropriately authentic backdrop<br />

for open-air theatre performances.<br />

12 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


3. Dolac<br />

Dolac Market<br />

St Mary’s Church<br />

Petrica Kerempuh<br />

Open-air food markets make up<br />

one of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s most attractive<br />

features. Almost every district in<br />

the city has one, although the<br />

most famous one is Dolac, close<br />

to the cathedral. Here people<br />

sell fresh fruit, vegetables, meat<br />

and fish every day of the week.<br />

This bustling place<br />

is affectionately<br />

known as “the belly<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong>”, due to<br />

the mouth-watering<br />

array of irresistible<br />

foodstuffs brought<br />

here from all parts of<br />

Croatia. The market<br />

dates from the early<br />

20 th century, when<br />

the city authorities<br />

decided to tear down<br />

all houses on Dolac<br />

to make room for a<br />

modern marketplace<br />

on three levels.<br />

Built on the site of an earlier<br />

Cistercian church, St Mary’s is an<br />

outstanding example of the threeaisled<br />

Baroque churches built<br />

in the 18 th century. The interior<br />

luxuriates in marble altars and<br />

illusionist frescoes. The entrance<br />

to the church is somewhat<br />

hidden from sight, under the<br />

arcades that connect Dolac<br />

market with Tkalčićeva.<br />

Miroslav Krleža<br />

(1893 – 1981),<br />

writer and<br />

encyclopaedist.<br />

His works have<br />

left a lasting<br />

mark on 20 th -<br />

century Croatian<br />

literature. He was<br />

born in <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

and attended a<br />

school on Kaptol.<br />

His most famous<br />

works include the<br />

long poem “The<br />

Ballads of Petrica<br />

Kerempuh”,<br />

the novel “On<br />

the Edge of<br />

Reason”, and the<br />

play “The Family<br />

Glembay”. Krleža<br />

founded the<br />

Lexicographical<br />

Standing in a small square filled<br />

with flower stalls is a mischievouslooking<br />

statue of Petrica Kerempuh,<br />

the work of sculptor Vanja<br />

Radauš. A much-loved character<br />

from Croatian literature, Petrica<br />

Kerempuh is a plebeian prophet,<br />

rascal and cynical commentator<br />

on contemporary events, a sort<br />

of predecessor of modern standup<br />

comedians. His most notable<br />

incarnation can be found in “The<br />

Ballads of Petrica Kerempuh”<br />

(1936), written <strong>by</strong> Croatia’s leading<br />

20 th -century writer Miroslav Krleža.<br />

Institute that<br />

today carries<br />

his name. He<br />

also initiated<br />

work on several<br />

encyclopaedias.<br />

14 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


4.<br />

<br />

Tkalčićeva<br />

Marija Jurić Zagorka<br />

The Glyptotheque<br />

The Bloody Bridge<br />

St George<br />

The Stone Gate<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s Oldest<br />

Pharmacy<br />

Tkalčićeva<br />

Marija Jurić Zagorka<br />

Undoubtedly <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s most Born into a wealthy family, the<br />

colourful downtown street, writer Marija Jurić Zagorka<br />

Tkalčićeva (commonly known as (1873– 1957) was very much<br />

“Tkalča”) is built along the course a woman ahead of her time,<br />

of the former Medveščak creek, becoming the first female<br />

traditional boundary between the professional journalist in Croatia<br />

settlements of Kaptol and Gradec. and a champion of equal rights.<br />

Everything to the east of the creek Writing under the pen-name<br />

belonged to church-controlled Zagorka (which literally means<br />

Kaptol, while the west side “a woman from the Zagorje”), she<br />

belonged to the secular Gradec.<br />

wrote novels for a broad<br />

Most of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s watermills were<br />

readership in which<br />

concentrated around the creek, and love stories and grand<br />

in the 18 th century it became<br />

historical themes were<br />

the site of workshops producing<br />

intertwined. One of<br />

cloth, soap, paper and liqueurs.<br />

her most popular<br />

The creek was paved over at<br />

works was the series<br />

the end of the 19 th century,<br />

of novels entitled<br />

creating a street that quickly<br />

“The Witch of Grič”, a<br />

became the animated centre<br />

saga set against the<br />

of commercial activity and<br />

background of 18 th -<br />

nightlife. Today people of all<br />

century witch-hunts.<br />

ages come to Tkalča for its<br />

Her statue, erected<br />

small boutiques, traditional<br />

in the 1991, is the<br />

shops, restaurants and cafés.<br />

work of sculptor<br />

Stjepan Gračan.<br />

The Glyptotheque<br />

Just north of Tkalčićeva on<br />

Medvedgradska is one of the bestpreserved<br />

industrial buildings in<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>, a red-brick former leather<br />

tannery that now provides a home<br />

for the grandly-named Glyptotheque.<br />

Belonging to the Croatian<br />

Academy of Arts and Sciences,<br />

the Glyptotheque is basically a<br />

collection of plaster copies of<br />

famous sculptures. The permanent<br />

display includes casts of significant<br />

Croatian works, and original<br />

sculptures from the 19 th and 20 th<br />

centuries. In addition, top-quality<br />

exhibitions of contemporary art and<br />

design are frequently held here.<br />

16 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


5.<br />

The Bloody<br />

6.<br />

Bridge<br />

Radićeva<br />

The Bloody Bridge<br />

Radićeva<br />

St George<br />

This alley connecting Tkalčićeva<br />

with Radićeva is called “Bloody<br />

Bridge” (Krvavi most in Croatian)<br />

because it was the location of a<br />

bridge that connected Gradec and<br />

Kaptol and a spot perfectly set for<br />

their frequent squabbles. Rights to<br />

the watermills along Medveščak<br />

creek gave frequent grounds for<br />

dispute, and the bridge across<br />

the creek was the spot where<br />

these arguments occasionally<br />

turned violent. The bridge itself<br />

was torn down in the year 1899<br />

The Witches of<br />

the Upper Town<br />

A series of trials<br />

initiated <strong>by</strong> the<br />

Church during the<br />

early 17 th century<br />

resulted in several<br />

local women<br />

being burned<br />

at the stake for<br />

witchcraft. It was<br />

believed that<br />

these women<br />

formed a secret<br />

sect and that<br />

they flew to their<br />

trysts with the<br />

help of a magic<br />

ointment. These<br />

trysts allegedly<br />

took place at<br />

the night at<br />

several symbolic<br />

locations, such as<br />

but the name is still bone <strong>by</strong> the<br />

small street that replaced it.<br />

The public library on the corner<br />

of Bloody Bridge originally<br />

housed <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first telephone<br />

exchange. It was set up <strong>by</strong> local<br />

entrepreneur Vilim Schwarz in<br />

1887, only eleven years after<br />

Alexander Bell patented the<br />

telephone in America. Awarded<br />

a concession <strong>by</strong> the Ministry of<br />

Development and Communications,<br />

Schwarz installed an exchange<br />

that served 45 subscribers.<br />

the Manduševac<br />

spring or the<br />

summit of Mount<br />

Medvednica. In<br />

the mid-18 th<br />

century Empress<br />

Maria Theresa<br />

abolished witch<br />

trials throughout<br />

her domains.<br />

Inspired <strong>by</strong> these<br />

historical facts,<br />

novelist Marija<br />

Jurić Zagorka<br />

drew attention to<br />

the persecution<br />

of these innocent<br />

women and<br />

encouraged the<br />

women of the<br />

early 20 th century<br />

to fight for<br />

their rights.<br />

This gently sloping street that<br />

leads to the Upper Town from<br />

the main square was named after<br />

Croatian politician Pavle Radić,<br />

who was assassinated during<br />

a debate in the Parliament in<br />

Belgrade in 1928. Before that the<br />

street was known as the Long<br />

Street and wooden houses there<br />

were often damaged <strong>by</strong> fires, so<br />

over time they were replaced <strong>by</strong><br />

multiple-storey brick buildings.<br />

The street was one of the city’s<br />

principal business centres in the<br />

19 th century, and it was here at<br />

no. 30 that the first branch of<br />

the Croatian Savings Bank was<br />

opened in 1880. As another point<br />

of interest, the writer Miroslav<br />

Krleža was born at no. 7.<br />

This work <strong>by</strong> the Austrian<br />

sculptors Kompatscher and Winder<br />

was brought to <strong>Zagreb</strong> at the<br />

beginning of the 20 th century as<br />

a gift from the Mažuranić family,<br />

although it wasn’t set down at<br />

its current location until 1994. It<br />

is one of the rare portrayals of St<br />

George after he has actually killed<br />

the dragon, and shows him paying<br />

respects to the vanquished beast.<br />

18 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


7. The Stone Gate<br />

The Stone Gate<br />

One enters the Upper Town<br />

through the Stone Gate (Kamenita<br />

vrata in Croatian), the only old<br />

town gate that has remained<br />

intact. Built in the Middle Ages,<br />

it assumed its final form after<br />

being rebuilt in the 18 th century.<br />

Under the arch of the gateway is<br />

a chapel dedicated to the Virgin<br />

Mary. It holds a painting of the<br />

Virgin that was miraculously<br />

saved from a devastating fire in<br />

the year 1731, and the chapel<br />

has been a place of pilgrimage<br />

ever since. The Virgin Mary is<br />

the patron saint of <strong>Zagreb</strong>,<br />

and Her feast day on May<br />

31 is also the date of<br />

the annual city holiday.<br />

20 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong><br />

Chains from HMS Victory<br />

Placed at their current location<br />

in 1878, the chains belonged<br />

originally to the famous British<br />

warship HMS Victory. The Victory<br />

was Admiral Nelson’s flagship<br />

at the Battle of Trafalgar in<br />

1805, when Napoleon’s fleet<br />

was decisively beaten <strong>by</strong> the<br />

British Navy. Admiral Nelson<br />

died on his ship during the<br />

final stages of the battle.<br />

Dora Krupić<br />

Dora Krupić is a character from<br />

August Šenoa’s novel “The<br />

Goldsmith’s Gold”. Published in<br />

1871, the book is considered to<br />

be Croatia’s first real historical<br />

novel. The plot centres on a 16 th -<br />

century love story involving a<br />

nobleman and a town girl called<br />

Dora, the kindly and beautiful<br />

daughter of a goldsmith. Tragically,<br />

Dora ends up being poisoned<br />

<strong>by</strong> an evil local barber, enraged<br />

<strong>by</strong> her refusal of his marriage<br />

proposal. A bronze sculpture <strong>by</strong><br />

Ivo Kerdić was commissioned<br />

in her honour in 1929.<br />

August Šenoa<br />

(1838 - 1881),<br />

Croatian novelist,<br />

short story writer,<br />

poet, critic and<br />

journalist. Šenoa<br />

was the most<br />

productive and<br />

influential Croatian<br />

writer of the 19 th<br />

century. His opus<br />

mainly consists<br />

of historical<br />

novels that use<br />

various periods of<br />

Croatian history<br />

as the backdrop.<br />

Šenoa rose to<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s Oldest Pharmacy<br />

Kamenita ulica (“Stone Street”) is<br />

the site of the oldest pharmacy in<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>, founded in the year 1355.<br />

Documents suggest that Nicolo<br />

Alighieri, great-grandson of Dante<br />

Alighieri, worked here way back<br />

in 1399 as a pharmacist. In more<br />

or less continuous operation since<br />

it first opened, the pharmacy<br />

is still very much in business.<br />

become the Mayor<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong>, dying<br />

of pneumonia<br />

after working<br />

tirelessly to assist<br />

those citizens<br />

affected <strong>by</strong> the<br />

great earthquake<br />

of 1880.


8. Opatička<br />

Opatička 10<br />

Opatička 18<br />

The <strong>Zagreb</strong> City Museum<br />

Ilirski trg<br />

The Priest’s Tower<br />

Opatička 10<br />

The splendid palaces along<br />

Opatička bear witness to many a<br />

key event in <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s history. For<br />

example the palace at Opatička 10<br />

takes us back to the 19 th century,<br />

a time of reawakened interest<br />

in national culture. Adapted for<br />

the needs of the Department of<br />

Divine Worship and Teaching, the<br />

three-winged palace served as<br />

the seat of the administration for<br />

culture and education in Croatian<br />

territories at that time. A striking<br />

entrance featuring<br />

an ornate wrought-iron fence<br />

overlooked <strong>by</strong> busts of Greek<br />

philosophers Plato and Aristotle<br />

hints at the majesty of the<br />

building’s most famous reception<br />

room, the so-called Golden Hall.<br />

This lavishly-decorated space was<br />

filled with paintings <strong>by</strong> the most<br />

distinguished pre-World War I<br />

artists, Vlaho Bukovac, Celestin<br />

Medović, Oton Iveković and Robert<br />

Frangeš Mihanović among them.<br />

Today the palace houses the<br />

Croatian Institute of History.<br />

Opatička 18<br />

Built in Neo-Classical style, the<br />

former palace of the aristocratic<br />

Drašković family at Opatička 18<br />

became an important focus of<br />

Croatian culture when it was<br />

purchased <strong>by</strong> the Illyrians, a 19 th -<br />

century movement devoted to the<br />

promotion of Croatian language<br />

and literature. Renamed the<br />

National Hall, the palace hosted<br />

many important cultural events,<br />

while its main reception room, the<br />

so-called Revival Hall, became the<br />

venue for political rallies and balls.<br />

22 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


Public Gas<br />

Lighting<br />

Both the Upper<br />

Town and Kaptol<br />

have retained the<br />

gas streetlights<br />

that date back to<br />

the beginning of<br />

the 19 th century.<br />

Every day at sunset<br />

two lamp lighters<br />

(the so-called<br />

“nažigači”) light<br />

more than 200<br />

gas lanterns in<br />

the streets.<br />

The <strong>Zagreb</strong> City Museum<br />

The <strong>Zagreb</strong> City Museum is housed<br />

in the restored former convent<br />

of St Clare, whose nuns gave<br />

Opatička ulica its name (“opatica”<br />

being the Croatian word for<br />

nun). The Sisters of St Clare came<br />

to <strong>Zagreb</strong> in the 17 th century<br />

in response to an invitation <strong>by</strong><br />

Croatian nobles, many of whose<br />

daughters entered their order.<br />

The nuns organized the city’s<br />

first school for girls, teaching<br />

music and singing alongside<br />

more mainstream academic<br />

subjects. The building’s main<br />

facade was built without windows,<br />

helping the nuns to retain their<br />

isolation from everyday life.<br />

Since 1947 the building has<br />

been the home of the City<br />

Museum, which presents <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s<br />

long history in a contemporary<br />

and entertaining way.<br />

Ilirski trg<br />

The northernmost point of the<br />

Upper Town is Ilirski trg or “Illyrian<br />

Square”, named after the Illyrian<br />

movement which spearheaded<br />

Croatia’s cultural and political<br />

revival during the first half<br />

of the 19 th century. Both the<br />

picturesque chapel in the middle<br />

of the square and the sound of<br />

music wafting from the near<strong>by</strong><br />

ballet school help to create a<br />

uniquely romantic setting.<br />

The Priest’s Tower<br />

Known <strong>by</strong> the locals as the Priest’s<br />

Tower, the round tower at the<br />

northern end of Opatička was<br />

built in the 13 th century to help<br />

ward off the threat of Ottoman<br />

attack. Fortifications like these<br />

had lost their primary purpose <strong>by</strong><br />

the 17 th century, and the Priest’s<br />

Tower became the city’s main food<br />

storehouse. The nuns of St Clare<br />

subsequently held classes in the<br />

tower, and in 1903 an observatory<br />

was opened on the top floor.<br />

24 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 25


9.<br />

St Mark’s<br />

Square<br />

St Mark’s Church<br />

Banski dvori<br />

Sabor<br />

Matija Gubec<br />

The Meštrović Atelier<br />

The Croatian<br />

History Museum<br />

The Old City Hall<br />

The Croatian<br />

Museum of<br />

Naive Art<br />

St Mark’s Church<br />

St Mark’s Square (Trg<br />

svetog Marka) constitutes<br />

the heart of the Upper<br />

Town, having formerly<br />

served as the main market<br />

square of the settlement<br />

of Gradec. Dominating<br />

the square is the 13 th -century<br />

Church of St Mark, a threeaisled<br />

Romanesque church which<br />

still retains much of its original<br />

shape. The Gothic arched ceiling<br />

and the sanctuary were added in<br />

the late 14 th century, along with<br />

the fifteen statues that stand in<br />

niches above the southern portal.<br />

Some of the statues were made <strong>by</strong><br />

masters from the Parler workshop<br />

in Prague in around 1420.<br />

The church was substantially<br />

rebuilt in the Neo-Gothic style<br />

<strong>by</strong> Herman Bollé at the end of<br />

the 19 th century. The roof tiles,<br />

decorated with the coats of arms<br />

of the Triune Kingdom of Croatia,<br />

Dalmatia and Slavonia and the city<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong> also date to this period.<br />

The interior was restored between<br />

1936 and 1938 <strong>by</strong> the sculptor<br />

Ivan Meštrović and the painter<br />

Jozo Kljaković. Meštrović’s work<br />

in the church includes the large<br />

crucifix above the main altar, the<br />

Pietà in the apse and a silver cross,<br />

as well as the Madonna portrayed<br />

as a village woman in the south<br />

apse. Kljaković’s murals in the<br />

main body of the church portray<br />

scenes from The Old and The New<br />

Testaments, while in<br />

the adjacent chapel<br />

of St Fabian and<br />

Sebastian they focus<br />

on themes from<br />

Croatian history.<br />

Banski dvori<br />

The Banski dvori or “Governor’s<br />

Palace” at St Mark’s Square 1 is the<br />

seat of the Croatian Government<br />

and also houses the office of the<br />

Prime Minister. The palace was<br />

built in the beginning of the 19 th<br />

century and was home to the<br />

Croatian bans (governors) from<br />

1808 to 1918. The legendary Ban<br />

Josip Jelačić lived and died here.<br />

Sabor<br />

The Croatian Sabor or Parliament<br />

has held its sessions at this<br />

location ever since 1737. The<br />

current building dates from the<br />

beginning of the 20 th century. It<br />

was here that members voted<br />

to sever political ties from the<br />

Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918<br />

and from Yugoslavia in 1991.<br />

26 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


Matija Gubec<br />

Matija Gubec was the leader<br />

of a major uprising <strong>by</strong> Croatian<br />

peasants, in which a peasant army<br />

took on the local landowners near<br />

Stubičke Toplice in 1573. With<br />

the defeat of the peasants Gubec<br />

was taken to <strong>Zagreb</strong> for trial.<br />

He was executed on St Mark’s<br />

Square on February 15 of the<br />

same year, reportedly <strong>by</strong> being<br />

crowned with a circle of redhot<br />

iron (an ironic reference<br />

to his much vaunted status<br />

as “king of the peasants”),<br />

then quartered. It is<br />

believed that his face<br />

is depicted on the<br />

corner of a building<br />

in St Mark’s Square.<br />

The Meštrović Atelier<br />

The Meštrović Atelier is a part of<br />

the Ivan Meštrović Foundation,<br />

set up <strong>by</strong> the world-renowned<br />

Croatian sculptor. A collection of<br />

his works is presented in the house<br />

in which he lived with his family<br />

from 1922 to 1942. Meštrović<br />

bought two houses whose owners<br />

since the 18 th century had been<br />

button makers, a teacher of poetry<br />

and noblemen’s families. With<br />

the help of his architect<br />

friends, he adapted the<br />

houses and turned them<br />

into a studio and an<br />

apartment, which he<br />

bequeathed to his<br />

homeland Croatia.<br />

Ivan Meštrović<br />

(1883 – 1962), the<br />

greatest Croatian<br />

sculptor of all<br />

time and the first<br />

globally recognized<br />

Croatian artist.<br />

Born into a<br />

poor family in<br />

the Dalmatian<br />

hinterland, his<br />

talent was<br />

discovered <strong>by</strong> his<br />

fellow-townsmen<br />

who paid his<br />

education in<br />

Vienna. He went<br />

on to work in the<br />

most important<br />

centres of<br />

European art. His<br />

sculptures can<br />

be found all over<br />

the world, both<br />

in permanent<br />

museum<br />

exhibitions and<br />

in numerous<br />

public places.<br />

He is perhaps<br />

best known<br />

for “The Victor,”<br />

which stands in<br />

Kalemegdan Park,<br />

Belgrade, and the<br />

huge equestrian<br />

statues of Indians<br />

he produced<br />

for Grant Park<br />

in Chicago.<br />

The Croatian History Museum<br />

Built in the 18 th -century, the<br />

impressive Baroque Vojković<br />

– Oršić – Rauch Palace has had<br />

many owners and tenants over<br />

the centuries. According to<br />

some, the building’s first owner<br />

Vojković made a fortune <strong>by</strong><br />

securing advantageous marriages<br />

to older, richer women. During<br />

the good old days of coaches<br />

and crinolines, members of the<br />

Croatian social elite happily<br />

gathered here for balls and<br />

concerts in the hall on the first<br />

floor. Since 1959 the palace has<br />

been home to the Croatian History<br />

Museum. There is no permanent<br />

collection on display, but seasonal<br />

exhibitions on key themes of<br />

local history provide a wealth of<br />

insights into the country’s past.<br />

28 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 29


Ćirilometodska<br />

Running south from St Mark’s<br />

Square, Ćirilometodska boasts<br />

a wealth of Baroque palaces<br />

that once belonged to the local<br />

aristocracy. The present name<br />

honours the Slavic apostles Ćiril<br />

and Metod (Cyril and Methodius)<br />

who devised the first Slavic script,<br />

known as Glagolitic (glagoljica),<br />

in the 9 th century. The Greek<br />

Catholic church that stands midway<br />

along the street was also<br />

named after the two apostles. The<br />

church assumed its current form<br />

in the 19 th century after a design<br />

<strong>by</strong> the architect Hermann Bollé.<br />

The Old City Hall<br />

The complex of buildings at the<br />

corner of Ćirilometodska served<br />

as <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s City Hall until after<br />

World War II, when it was moved<br />

to a newer part of town. Since<br />

the Middle Ages this was where<br />

town officials held sessions. Today<br />

however only some ceremonial<br />

sessions are held at the old<br />

location, and with marriage<br />

ceremonies performed here on<br />

Saturdays it remains a place close<br />

to the hearts of many a <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

family. It was also here that<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first theatre was built<br />

in 1833, financed <strong>by</strong> Kristofor<br />

Stanković – a local merchant<br />

who had just won the grand<br />

prize at the Vienna lottery. It<br />

was initially a German-language<br />

theatre, although something of a<br />

historical first occurred in 1835<br />

when Croatian was used on stage<br />

during the intermission. In 1840<br />

the first full-length Croatian<br />

play, “Juran and Sofija” <strong>by</strong> Ivan<br />

Kukuljević, was performed here,<br />

to be followed six years later <strong>by</strong><br />

the first Croatian opera, “Love<br />

and Malice” <strong>by</strong> Vatroslav Lisinski.<br />

The Croatian Museum<br />

of Naive Art<br />

The Croatian Museum of<br />

Naive Art is located in one<br />

section of a Baroque palace in<br />

Ćirilometodska 3. Considered<br />

to be the world’s first museum<br />

devoted to naive art, it displays<br />

the works of over 20 Croatian<br />

masters of the genre, including<br />

the likes of Generalić, Lacković<br />

Croata and Rabuzin. These<br />

colourful paintings <strong>by</strong> Croatia’s<br />

self-taught artists are simply<br />

bursting with the joys of life.<br />

Street Names Upper Town’s <strong>Zagreb</strong> dialect<br />

Many street historic houses were written in<br />

names in the have uncovered Roman script,<br />

Upper Town have archaic bilingual whereas German<br />

changed several street names versions of the<br />

times through long hidden same names<br />

history. Restorers under layers of were written in<br />

cleaning the plaster. Croatian Gothic script.<br />

facades of the street names in<br />

30 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 31


10.<br />

Catherine’s<br />

Square<br />

St Catherine’s<br />

Church<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first<br />

Humanistic<br />

Secondary School<br />

The Klovićevi<br />

Dvori Gallery<br />

The View from<br />

Gradec<br />

Antun Gustav<br />

Matoš<br />

Funicular<br />

Lotrščak Tower<br />

St Catherine’s Church<br />

Dominating Catherine’s Square<br />

(Katarinin trg) is <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s most<br />

beautiful Baroque church. The<br />

church was built <strong>by</strong> the Jesuits<br />

in the first half of the 17 th<br />

century. It consists of a single<br />

aisle with six side chapels, and<br />

a sanctuary which ends with a<br />

grand Illusionist mural modelled<br />

on the one found in the “Il Gesu”<br />

Jesuit church in Rome. The chapels<br />

hold five wooden Baroque<br />

altars from the second half<br />

of the 17 th century, and one<br />

made of marble in 1729.<br />

The church façade<br />

was reconstructed <strong>by</strong><br />

Hermann Bollé after<br />

the 1880 earthquake.<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first Humanistic<br />

Secondary School<br />

The Jesuits, a Roman Catholic<br />

religious order known for their<br />

scientific and educational<br />

activities, founded the first<br />

Humanistic Secondary School<br />

in <strong>Zagreb</strong> in the year 1607. The<br />

school provided a humanistic<br />

education for hundreds of<br />

students from all walks of life,<br />

from children of farmers and city<br />

folk to children from noble<br />

families.<br />

The Klovićevi Dvori Gallery<br />

The Klovićevi Dvori Gallery is<br />

housed in the former Jesuit<br />

monastery on Jesuit Square<br />

(Jezuitski trg), which got its name<br />

after the religious order that was<br />

invited to Croatia <strong>by</strong> Croatian<br />

noblemen. The monastery complex<br />

stands next to St Catherine’s<br />

church and was built in stages<br />

throughout the 17 th and 18 th<br />

centuries. Named after the famous<br />

Croatian miniature painter Julije<br />

Klović (1498-1578), the gallery<br />

hosts large-scale art exhibitions <strong>by</strong><br />

both domestic and international<br />

artists. On the opposite side of<br />

the square from the gallery is the<br />

"Fisherman" sculpture <strong>by</strong> Simeon<br />

Roksandić. It adorns the Upper<br />

Town’s first fountain, built in 1911.<br />

The View from Gradec<br />

Behind St Catherine’s church there<br />

is a beautiful view from Gradec<br />

towards Kaptol, the cathedral,<br />

Dolac market and the main<br />

square. The monumental dome of<br />

Mirogoj cemetery and the green<br />

foothills of Mount Medvednica<br />

are clearly visible in the distance.<br />

32 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


11.<br />

The Strossmayer<br />

Promenade<br />

The Strossmayer Promenade<br />

Running along the southern rim<br />

of Gradec hill, the tree-lined<br />

Strossmayer Promenade was built<br />

at the end of the 19 th century<br />

with money donated <strong>by</strong> private<br />

citizens. It was named after<br />

Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, a<br />

prominent member of the Croatian<br />

cultural revival and an immensely<br />

influential figure in 19 th -century<br />

society and politics. The near<strong>by</strong><br />

State Weather Bureau has been<br />

continuously tracking<br />

weather conditions ever<br />

since its foundation<br />

in 1862, contributing<br />

greatly to our knowledge<br />

of how global climatic<br />

changes take place.<br />

Antun Gustav Matoš<br />

Visitors can soak in the view of<br />

central <strong>Zagreb</strong> in the company<br />

of poet Antun Gustav Matoš<br />

(1873-1914), whose statue sits<br />

on a bench beside Strossmayer<br />

Promenade. Although not<br />

born in <strong>Zagreb</strong>, Matoš grew to<br />

become one of the city’s greatest<br />

enthusiasts, writing frank and<br />

outspoken newspaper columns<br />

that extolled the bohemian life<br />

of the city. He also wrote some<br />

of the best-loved poems in<br />

the Croatian language.<br />

Matoš packed a lot into<br />

his relatively short life,<br />

and is remembered as<br />

something of an archetypal<br />

rebel and dreamer. Ivan<br />

Kožarić’s sculpture of<br />

Matoš was placed on the<br />

promenade in 1978.<br />

Funicular<br />

The 66-metre-long funicular that<br />

connects the Upper and Lower<br />

Town is the shortest passenger<br />

cable railway in the world. The<br />

height difference between top<br />

and bottom is 30.5 meters and<br />

the funicular takes 55 seconds to<br />

make the journey. 28 grownups<br />

can ride in it at one time and<br />

it goes up every ten minutes.<br />

Opened for passengers in 1890,<br />

when it was powered <strong>by</strong> steam,<br />

the funicular was the first ever<br />

means of public transport to be<br />

used in <strong>Zagreb</strong>, pre-dating horsedrawn<br />

trams <strong>by</strong> a whole year.<br />

Lotrščak Tower<br />

This is the only preserved mediaeval<br />

tower from the 13 th -century<br />

fortifications, slightly modified in<br />

the 19 th century, with a small lookout<br />

post on top. The bells of the<br />

Lotrščak tower used to summon the<br />

townsfolk to return to the town at<br />

sunset, when the gates were locked<br />

for the night. Nowadays Lotrščak is<br />

more famous for its cannon, which<br />

is fired every day at noon. The<br />

canon-firing tradition was initiated<br />

on New Year’s Day 1877, although<br />

several legends connect it with<br />

much earlier events. According to<br />

one story, the cannon was presented<br />

to the townsfolk <strong>by</strong> Hungarian<br />

King Bela IV in 1242, as a reward<br />

for protecting him from marauding<br />

Tatars–on condition that the cannon<br />

was fired every. The cannon could<br />

also have come from the spoils<br />

of a victory over the Turks, but<br />

whichever story is true, locals set<br />

their watches <strong>by</strong> the sound of the<br />

shot heard all over the city centre.<br />

34 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 35


Jurišićeva<br />

The Lower Town<br />

King Tomislav Square<br />

Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square<br />

Marulić Square<br />

Marshal Tito Square<br />

Masarykova<br />

Ban Jelačić Square<br />

Petar Preradović Square<br />

Ilica<br />

36 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 37


The Lower<br />

Town<br />

12. Nikola Šubić Zrinski<br />

Square<br />

13. King Tomislav Square<br />

14. Marulić Square<br />

15. Marshal Tito Square<br />

16. Masarykova<br />

17. Petar Preradović Square<br />

18. Ilica<br />

19. Jurišićeva


12.<br />

Nikola Šubić<br />

Zrinski Square<br />

Zrinjevac<br />

In a city that has more than its fair<br />

share of green squares, Zrinjevac is<br />

arguably the best loved of them all.<br />

It’s certainly hard to imagine that<br />

this neat quadrangle of flowerbeds<br />

was until the late 19 th century a<br />

meadow where cattle markets<br />

took place. It was subsequently<br />

transformed into an elegant<br />

promenade with plane trees<br />

imported from Trieste, a wroughtiron<br />

bandstand, fountains and<br />

busts of notable figures. The square<br />

gets its name from Nikola Šubić<br />

Zrinski (1508 – 1566), the Croatian<br />

Ban who died during the heroic<br />

defence of Szigetvar, a Hungarian<br />

fortress besieged <strong>by</strong> the Ottoman<br />

Turks. Zrinjevac is the northernmost<br />

square of “Lenuci’s Horseshoe”, a<br />

line of eight green spaces laid out<br />

<strong>by</strong> municipal engineer Milan Lenuci<br />

in the 19 th century. An outdoor<br />

gallery of 19 th - and 20 th -century<br />

urban culture is a convenient<br />

starting point for a walking<br />

tour of the Lower Town.<br />

The Meteorological Post<br />

Since 1884 weather conditions<br />

have been recorded on the<br />

meteorological pole here. It was<br />

a present to the city of <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

<strong>by</strong> Adolf Holzer, a physician. You<br />

can stand next to the marble<br />

post and check the temperature<br />

and air pressure and coordinate<br />

your watch with a 24-hour dial.<br />

In the 19 th century numerous<br />

wealthy citizens donated valuable<br />

public facilities to the city, among<br />

them the near<strong>by</strong> bandstand.<br />

The First Fountain<br />

The first fountain in <strong>Zagreb</strong> was<br />

built shortly after the opening of<br />

the <strong>Zagreb</strong> waterworks in 1878.<br />

It was designed <strong>by</strong> architect<br />

Herman Bollé and serves as a<br />

great place to find refreshment<br />

during hot summer days.<br />

Because of its swelling, organic<br />

shape the fountain is popularly<br />

known as “The Mushroom”.<br />

The Archeological Museum<br />

Housed in the Vranyczany-Hafner<br />

Palace, the Archeological Museum<br />

boasts a varied collection of<br />

400,000 artefacts in five main<br />

collections. The most enigmatic<br />

item on display is the Liber linteus<br />

Zagrabiensis or <strong>Zagreb</strong> Flax Book, a<br />

long strip of linen that was used<br />

to wrap the mummified body of<br />

an Egyptian tailor’s wife. The cloth<br />

was decorated with an Etruscan<br />

liturgical calendar, and is the<br />

longest preserved text in Etruscan,<br />

a language that still hasn’t been<br />

completely deciphered. The most<br />

charming “tenant”of the museum<br />

is the unhappy Plautilla, a 2 nd -<br />

century find of Salona (an ancient<br />

city near Split) whose statue is<br />

considered one of the best examples<br />

of portraiture in Roman sculpture.<br />

Croatia’s most famous archeological<br />

find is the Vučdol Dove (“Vučedolska<br />

golubica”), a clay vessel in the<br />

shape of a bird that was probably<br />

used in religious rituals some<br />

3,000 years before Christ.


The Meteorological<br />

Post<br />

The First Fountain<br />

The Archeological<br />

Museum<br />

HAZU – The Croatian<br />

Academy of Arts<br />

and Sciences<br />

The Gallery of<br />

Modern Art<br />

HAZU<br />

The Gallery of Modern Art<br />

The Croatian Academy of Arts and<br />

Sciences the highest institution<br />

devoted to science and art in<br />

Croatia, is housed in a Neo-<br />

Renaissance palace that was built<br />

exactly for this purpose in 1880.<br />

Towards the back of the entrance<br />

hall is the Baška Tablet, one of<br />

the oldest stone inscriptions<br />

written in the Croatian language.<br />

Dating from the turn of the<br />

12 th century, the inscription is<br />

written in Glagolitic, the highly<br />

decorative script used in Croatia<br />

before Roman letters became<br />

more widespread. Upstairs is<br />

the Strossmayer Gallery of Old<br />

Masters, displaying works of art<br />

from the 15 th to the 19 th century.<br />

Based on the private collection<br />

of the Academy’s founder, Bishop<br />

J. J. Strossmayer, the gallery<br />

includes works attributed to<br />

Tintoretto, Veronese, El Greco<br />

and many more. One should not<br />

miss the unforgettable Baroque<br />

painting “Abraham sacrifices<br />

Isaac” <strong>by</strong> Federiko Benković.<br />

The 19 th - century palace standing<br />

opposite to the Academy is home<br />

to the Gallery of Modern Art,<br />

which covers Croatian visual arts<br />

of the 19 th and 20 th centuries. Two<br />

centuries of Croatian paintings<br />

and sculptures are presented<br />

through the works of the most<br />

significant Croatian artists. Works<br />

are exhibited chronologically,<br />

beginning with the Croatian<br />

historical subjects painted <strong>by</strong><br />

pre-World War I artists such as<br />

Oton Iveković and Vlaho Bukovac.<br />

The display continues with the<br />

mysterious symbolism of Croatian<br />

Art Nouveau artists and the<br />

poetic soft shades of the painter<br />

Emanuel Vidović. Early 20 th -<br />

century works <strong>by</strong> Kraljević, Račić<br />

and Becić reflect the turmoil of<br />

European modernism. The gallery<br />

also includes a selection of works<br />

<strong>by</strong> contemporary Croatian artists.<br />

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13.<br />

King Tomislav<br />

Square<br />

King Tomislav<br />

A monument dedicated to<br />

Tomislav, Croatia’s first king,<br />

dominates the square carrying<br />

his name. This courageous<br />

warrior defended the continental<br />

part of Croatia from Hungarian<br />

attacks and for the first time<br />

united all Croatian lands into one<br />

country. Tomislav successfully<br />

sought papal recognition of<br />

his realm, and was crowned as<br />

king in the year 925. Despite<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> Words<br />

furt = always<br />

frtalj = a quarter<br />

haustor = house entrance<br />

plac = market, square<br />

šuster = shoe-maker<br />

taubek = pigeon<br />

gemišt = white wine and mineral water<br />

štenge = stairs<br />

špancir = a walk<br />

puca = a girl<br />

dying mysteriously three years<br />

later, his status as founder of<br />

the Croatian state has never<br />

been in doubt. The statue of<br />

Tomislav on horseback was<br />

completed <strong>by</strong> sculptor Robert<br />

Frangeš Mihanović in 1938,<br />

although protracted political<br />

difficulties and the outbreak<br />

of World War II prevented the<br />

statue from being installed in<br />

its current location until 1947.<br />

purger = a person from <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

ura = clock<br />

šnicl = steak<br />

gelender = handrail<br />

kefa = brush<br />

fest = a lot<br />

viršle = frankfurter<br />

fašnik = carnival<br />

lajbek = vest<br />

grincajg = soup vegetables<br />

The Main Railway Station<br />

The railway arrived in <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

in 1862, connecting the<br />

40,000-strong city to the<br />

economic and cultural centres<br />

of Vienna and Budapest. Built<br />

in 1892, the station building<br />

was designed <strong>by</strong> Hungarian<br />

architect Ferenc Pfaff, something<br />

of a specialist when it came to<br />

railway stations. Incorporating<br />

a mixture of Renaissance and<br />

Neo-classical elements, it is a<br />

fine addition to the parade of<br />

buildings that lies along the<br />

route of Lenuci’s Horseshoe.<br />

Travellers coming out of the<br />

railway station are confronted<br />

with one of the most beautiful<br />

views in <strong>Zagreb</strong>, which takes in<br />

the statue of King Tomislav, the<br />

Art Pavilion, the cathedral’s spires<br />

and the green slopes of Mount<br />

Medvednica in the distance.<br />

44 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 45


King Tomislav<br />

The Main Railway<br />

Station<br />

The Art Pavilion<br />

Hotel Esplanade<br />

The Art Pavilion<br />

Marking the northern end of<br />

King Tomislav Square is the Art<br />

Pavilion, originally built to serve<br />

as the Croatian Pavilion at the<br />

Budapest Millennial Exhibition of<br />

1896. Constructed using the latest<br />

in metal frame techniques, the<br />

pavilion was disassembled at the<br />

end of the Budapest exhibition,<br />

transported to <strong>Zagreb</strong> <strong>by</strong> train, and<br />

re-erected at its current location.<br />

The ceremonial opening took place<br />

in 1898 accompanied <strong>by</strong> a grand<br />

exhibition of contemporary artists.<br />

The pavilion was <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first<br />

dedicated space for art shows, and<br />

has been an important venue for<br />

high-profile exhibitions ever since.<br />

Hotel Esplanade<br />

The hotel is close to the main<br />

railway station and was built<br />

in very short time in 1925. The<br />

original purpose of the hotel<br />

was to provide top-notch<br />

accommodation for passengers on<br />

the Orient Express, the luxurious<br />

service linking Paris and Istanbul<br />

and which used <strong>Zagreb</strong> as one<br />

of the stops. Many celebrity<br />

guests stayed at the hotel, which<br />

became an important centre for<br />

society events. The <strong>Zagreb</strong> public<br />

was particularly intrigued <strong>by</strong> the<br />

performance of a provocative<br />

dancer Josephine Baker in 1929,<br />

when several virtuous local ladies<br />

expressed their disapproval. It was<br />

also here that <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first beauty<br />

contest was held in 1926, with the<br />

winner going on to be crowned<br />

“Miss Europe” in the following year.<br />

46 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong><br />

Licitar<br />

(Gingerbread<br />

Heart)<br />

The "licitar" is<br />

a bright red<br />

heart-shaped<br />

gingerbread<br />

cookie that has<br />

long served as a<br />

symbol of love<br />

and affection.<br />

Sold at parish<br />

fairs for centuries,<br />

the licitar was<br />

originally an<br />

edible sweet<br />

cookie containing<br />

honey, although<br />

it is now a largely<br />

decorative gift<br />

that is meant to be<br />

kept rather than<br />

eaten. Brightly<br />

decorated licitars,<br />

moulded into<br />

various shapes and<br />

richly decorated,<br />

also serve as<br />

a favourite<br />

traditional<br />

Christmas tree<br />

decoration.<br />

Guardians<br />

Frozen in Time<br />

During his or her<br />

walks through<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> the careful<br />

observer will<br />

notice unusual<br />

characters on<br />

facades, balconies,<br />

posts and towers,<br />

next to windows<br />

and above doors.<br />

Beasts and<br />

demons, dragons<br />

and owls, angels<br />

and spirits are<br />

not just here<br />

to serve as<br />

architectural<br />

decorations.<br />

As guardians of<br />

the city they are<br />

all on a secret<br />

mission, and<br />

although they<br />

stand motionless<br />

during the<br />

daytime, the<br />

luckiest of visitors<br />

may yet see<br />

them at work.


14.<br />

Marulić<br />

Square<br />

The Croatian<br />

State Archives<br />

The Botanical<br />

Gardens<br />

The Ethnographic<br />

Museum<br />

The Croatian State Archives<br />

The Botanical Gardens<br />

The Ethnographic Museum<br />

Marulić Square is dominated<br />

<strong>by</strong> the former National and<br />

University Library, today home<br />

to the Croatian State Archives.<br />

Designed <strong>by</strong> architect Rudolf<br />

Lu<strong>by</strong>nski in 1913, the building<br />

is <strong>by</strong> far the most beautiful<br />

example of Croatian Art Nouveau.<br />

Every detail, from the decorative<br />

elements on the facade to the<br />

reading lamps on the desks, was<br />

meticulously designed <strong>by</strong> the<br />

leading artists of the day. The<br />

building is rich in symbolism,<br />

with rooftop groups of globebearing<br />

owls pointing to the<br />

library’s educational purpose.<br />

Similarly, allegories of science<br />

and the book trade adorn<br />

the facade.<br />

Marko Marulić, literary work to be<br />

writer and humanist, published in the<br />

(1450 – 1524). Croatian language.<br />

Writing in Latin, Inspired <strong>by</strong> the<br />

Italian and Croatian, Old-Testament<br />

Marko Marulić was Jewish heroine<br />

a towering figure who famously<br />

of the Croatian beheaded the<br />

Renaissance. Often Ba<strong>by</strong>lonian<br />

considered the warlord Holofernes,<br />

father of Croatian the book was<br />

literature, his intended to serve<br />

most significant as a metaphor<br />

achievement was for Christian<br />

in penning the Croatia’s struggle<br />

epic poem “Judith” against the<br />

(Judita), the first Ottoman Empire.<br />

Running parallel to the railway<br />

tracks, the Botanical Gardens form<br />

the southern part of the green<br />

belt known as Lenuci’s Horseshoe.<br />

Every spring since the late 19 th<br />

century the gardens have opened<br />

their gates to the public. Pride<br />

of the gardens is the collection<br />

of 10,000 or more plant species,<br />

ranging from exotic imports to<br />

indigenous Croatian plants. The<br />

gardens are open until sundown<br />

and entrance is free of charge, but<br />

there are strict rules governing<br />

behaviour. It is forbidden to<br />

walk on the grass, shout, ride<br />

a bicycle or pick flowers. The<br />

greenery, the wonderful scents<br />

and a general sense of peace<br />

constitute a true oasis in the<br />

centre of the city. The gardens<br />

are located on Mihanovićeva,<br />

named after the author of<br />

Croatia’s national anthem Lijepa<br />

naša domovino (“Our Beautiful<br />

Homeland”), Antun Mihanović.<br />

The Ethnographic Museum is<br />

located in the former Chamber of<br />

Trade, an Art Nouveau building<br />

dating from 1903. The museum<br />

itself was founded in 1919 on<br />

the initiative of Salamon Berger,<br />

a factory owner from Slovakia<br />

who donated his huge collection<br />

of folk costumes and textiles<br />

to the institution. As well as<br />

the costumes, visitors can see<br />

traditional household utensils<br />

and musical instruments from<br />

all over Croatia. A further point<br />

of interest are the collections<br />

donated <strong>by</strong> brothers Stevo and<br />

Mirko Seljan, famous Croatian<br />

explorers who returned from<br />

Africa and South America with<br />

a wealth of native artefacts.<br />

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15. Marshal<br />

Tito Square<br />

The Croatian National Theatre<br />

The Well of Life<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> University<br />

The Croatian National Theatre<br />

is located on Trg maršala Tita<br />

(Marshal Tito Square), which<br />

is named after Josip Broz Tito<br />

(1892 – 1980), former president<br />

of the Yugoslav Federation.<br />

This square, formerly known as<br />

University and Theatre Square, is<br />

the last in the arc of eight green<br />

squares that formed Lenuci’s<br />

Horseshoe, the central component<br />

of 19 th -century <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s urban<br />

plan. Well-known Viennese<br />

architects Ferdinand Fellner and<br />

Herman Helmer, who designed<br />

forty other European theatres,<br />

were responsible for the plans<br />

for the building, employing a rich<br />

Neo-Baroque style that was at<br />

the time thought most suitable<br />

for theatres. Officially opened<br />

in 1895, the building brings the<br />

national opera, ballet and drama<br />

companies together under a<br />

single roof. With a repertoire<br />

that ranges from classics to<br />

contemporary pieces, and with<br />

both Croatian and international<br />

works well represented, the<br />

theatre occupies a central place<br />

in the cultural life of the capital.<br />

Placed in front of the National<br />

Theatre in 1912, the Well of<br />

Life is one of Croatian sculptor<br />

Ivan Meštrović’s most popular<br />

works. Dating from Meštrović’s<br />

youthful, playful period, it is<br />

a sensual piece of work that<br />

many believe to be among his<br />

best. It basically consists of a<br />

circular pool surrounded <strong>by</strong> a<br />

bronze frieze of intertwined<br />

nude figures. From children to<br />

loving couples and old people,<br />

the figures appear to be reaching<br />

over the lip of the fountain to<br />

scoop up the water, suggesting<br />

a universal theme of human zest<br />

for life and interdependence.<br />

Running along the north side<br />

of the square is the main<br />

administrative building of <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

University. Founded in 1669, it is<br />

the oldest university in Croatia,<br />

and also one of the oldest in<br />

Europe. It currently consists of<br />

29 faculties, three academies<br />

and one university centre.The<br />

administrative building, built in<br />

the 19 th century, was originally<br />

used as a hospital, and for a time<br />

even served as a tobacco factory.<br />

In front of the entrance is Ivan<br />

Meštrović’s “History of the Croats”,<br />

a seated figure of a woman<br />

(based on the sculptor’s mother)<br />

which eloquently symbolizes the<br />

calm strength of the nation. The<br />

sculpture was placed here in<br />

1971, and has served as a popular<br />

patriotic symbol ever since.<br />

50 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 51


The Croatian<br />

National Theatre<br />

The Well of Life<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> University<br />

The Museum of Arts<br />

and Crafts<br />

St George<br />

The Mimara Museum<br />

The Museum of Arts and Crafts<br />

Occupying the west side of the<br />

square is the Museum of Arts<br />

and Crafts, founded in 1880 and<br />

one of the first institutions of its<br />

kind in Europe. It was originally<br />

charged with the cultivation of<br />

traditional crafts and their use in<br />

modern design and manufacture.<br />

As a result, the School of<br />

Decorative Arts (the presentday<br />

School of Applied Arts and<br />

Design) was established next<br />

to the museum. The permanent<br />

exhibition at the museum covers<br />

three floors and presents the<br />

development of applied arts<br />

from the Gothic period right<br />

through to Art-Deco. The display<br />

includes clocks and watches,<br />

metalwork, glass, ceramics<br />

and textiles. The museum also<br />

organizes themed exhibitions<br />

about the history of design as<br />

well as contemporary art shows.<br />

St George<br />

The theme of St George killing<br />

the dragon has been a popular<br />

motif since medieval times,<br />

symbolizing the struggle between<br />

good and evil and the victory of<br />

Christianity over paganism. This<br />

particular portrayal of the saint<br />

was produced <strong>by</strong> Austrian sculptor<br />

Anton Fernkorn. The original made<br />

its way to a noblemans palace in<br />

Vienna in 1853, although a zinc<br />

cast was brought to <strong>Zagreb</strong>. This<br />

bronze copy was placed at its<br />

current location in 1908, since<br />

when the virtuous knight has been<br />

on display killing the dragon<br />

for just over a century.<br />

The Mimara Museum<br />

Built in the late 19 th century<br />

to serve as a high school, the<br />

Neo-Renaissance palace on<br />

Roosevelt Square holds the<br />

wide-ranging collections of the<br />

Mimara Museum. The museum<br />

was founded to display the<br />

artworks donated <strong>by</strong> private<br />

collector Ante Topić Mimara, and<br />

was first opened to the public in<br />

1987. The permanent exhibition<br />

at the museum is organized into<br />

a chronological sequence of<br />

historical periods, from the times<br />

of ancient Egypt and Greece to<br />

paintings and drawings <strong>by</strong> great<br />

masters like Raphael, Velasquez,<br />

Rubens, Rembrandt and Goya.<br />

The museum’s glass collection<br />

offers a wonderful insight<br />

into the changing artistic<br />

values of the glass-making<br />

trade over the centuries.<br />

52 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 53


16.<br />

Masarykova<br />

The Kallina House<br />

The Apartment of<br />

Viktor Kovačić<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s First<br />

Skyscraper<br />

Nikola Tesla<br />

The Kallina House<br />

The street named after Tomaš<br />

Masaryk, the first president of<br />

Czechoslovakia, has been the<br />

site of impressive-looking office<br />

buildings and apartment blocks<br />

ever since the 19 th century. One<br />

of the more fascinating examples<br />

of the latter is the Kallina House,<br />

built on the corner of the street<br />

in 1904 <strong>by</strong> architect Vjekoslav<br />

Bastl. One of the main investors<br />

in the project was the owner<br />

of a ceramics factory, and the<br />

façade of the building is covered<br />

in brightly decorated ceramic<br />

tiles. The Art Nouveau-inspired<br />

decorative details are among<br />

the most delightful in <strong>Zagreb</strong>,<br />

while the stylized bat motifs will<br />

certainly raise some eyebrows.<br />

The Apartment of Viktor<br />

Kovačić<br />

Built in 1906, the residential<br />

building at Masarykova 21-23<br />

was designed <strong>by</strong> the architect<br />

Viktor Kovačić, who reserved the<br />

attic apartment for himself. Viktor<br />

Kovačić (1874- 1924) was a great<br />

promoter of practical architecture,<br />

believing that apartments should<br />

be built for real people rather<br />

than just their furniture. Preserved<br />

in very much the state in which<br />

Kovačić left it, this attic apartment<br />

is one of the rare surviving<br />

examples of a meticulously<br />

planned early 20 th -century<br />

interior. Featuring carefully chosen<br />

textiles, and furniture that is<br />

both practical and good to look<br />

at, it offers a fascinating insight<br />

into the tastes of the time.<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s First Skyscraper<br />

The building on the corner of<br />

Masarykova and Gundulićeva has<br />

the honour of being the first ever<br />

skyscraper built in <strong>Zagreb</strong>. Dating<br />

from 1933, it was constructed in<br />

a record-breakingly short period<br />

of 79 days, thanks to the use<br />

of modern building techniques.<br />

Locals immediately hailed it<br />

as a skyscraper, although the<br />

building’s designer Slavko Löwy<br />

protested that the nine-storey,<br />

35-metre-high proportions<br />

of the building made it<br />

undeserving of such a<br />

description. Whatever<br />

we might want to call<br />

it, this elegant example<br />

of rational modernism<br />

was one of<br />

the highest<br />

achievements<br />

of Croatian<br />

architecture in the<br />

period between the<br />

two world wars.<br />

Nikola Tesla<br />

Overlooking the intersection of<br />

Masarykova and Teslina is a statue<br />

of Nikola Tesla (1856 – 1943), that<br />

was placed there on the 150 th<br />

anniversary of the birth of this<br />

exceptional scientist and innovator.<br />

Nikola Tesla was born and raised<br />

in Croatia and after finishing<br />

his education in Europe Tesla<br />

sought his fortune in the USA,<br />

where he was instrumental in the<br />

development and introduction<br />

of alternating current, x-rays,<br />

remote control devices and<br />

radio waves. Thanks to<br />

Tesla’s vision we can use<br />

the internet and mobile<br />

phones today. Tesla was a<br />

secretive man who rarely<br />

explained the thinking<br />

that lay behind his<br />

discoveries, leading many<br />

to think of him a something<br />

of a wizard. Even today,<br />

not all of Tesla’s secrets<br />

have been explained.<br />

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17.<br />

<br />

Petar Preradović<br />

Square<br />

Tin Ujević<br />

Miškec’s Passage<br />

The Oktogon<br />

The Grounded Sun<br />

The Napredak<br />

Skyscraper<br />

Petar Preradović Square<br />

Petar Preradović Square (Trg<br />

P. Preradovića) was named after<br />

Petar Preradović (1818 – 1872),<br />

an army general who also wrote<br />

patriotic verse and love poetry.<br />

His statue stands in the middle<br />

of the square and is a popular<br />

meeting point. The square is<br />

colloquially known as “Flower<br />

Square” (Cvjetni trg), after the<br />

flower stalls which have been a<br />

feature of the place ever since the<br />

14 th century when fairs were held<br />

here. On the northern side of the<br />

square is the Orthodox Church of<br />

the Holy Transfiguration, built at<br />

the end of the 19 th century on the<br />

former site of the Roman Catholic<br />

Church of St Margaret. Both the<br />

square and the surrounding streets<br />

are lined with pavement cafes, and<br />

it is here that you can get a true<br />

sense of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s “outdoor lounge”<br />

culture. For the locals, coffee is<br />

the ideal accompaniment to a<br />

serious business meeting or a good<br />

long gossip with a group of friends.<br />

Tin Ujević<br />

The statue honouring Augustin<br />

“Tin” Ujević (1891 – 1955), one of<br />

the greatest Croatian poets, was<br />

placed near Flower Square on<br />

the 100 th anniversary of his birth.<br />

Considered to be the last real<br />

Croatian bohemian, Ujević was<br />

a professional poet who avoided<br />

conventional lifestyles as long as<br />

he lived. He wrote verses on every<br />

possible subject, and there are few<br />

people in Croatia who don’t know<br />

at least a few lines of his poems <strong>by</strong><br />

heart. There are many anecdotes<br />

about Tin, his oversized old coat,<br />

hat and the glass of wine he always<br />

had in his hand while sitting in<br />

one of the bars in <strong>Zagreb</strong>. Tin was<br />

and remains an urban nomad.<br />

Miškec’s Passage<br />

The passage that connects<br />

Masarykova with Varšavska is named<br />

after Miškec, a much-loved local<br />

character who occupies an important<br />

position in urban folklore. Born<br />

Mihail Erdec, Miškec was a wellknown<br />

pre-World War II acrobat<br />

who was forced <strong>by</strong> injury into early<br />

retirement and a life on the streets.<br />

Bedding down in the grimy boiler<br />

room of the Europa Cinema, he won<br />

the sympathies of local residents <strong>by</strong><br />

doing odd jobs for neighbours and<br />

serenading cinemagoers with tunes<br />

on his mouth organ. A photo of the<br />

unrequited love of his life Štefica<br />

Vidačić, the first Miss <strong>Zagreb</strong>, hung<br />

above his makeshift bed. Miškec lived<br />

in the boiler room from the end of<br />

World War II until the 1960s, when<br />

he was finally persuaded to take<br />

up a bed in an old people’s home.


The Oktogon<br />

Linking the relaxed atmosphere of<br />

Flower Square with the bustling<br />

shopping street of Ilica is the<br />

Oktogon, an elegant pre-World<br />

War I arcade lined with largely<br />

upmarket shops. It gets its name<br />

from the octagonal-shaped central<br />

area, which stands beneath a<br />

domed, stained-glass roof. The<br />

representative business and<br />

residential building of the former<br />

First Croatian Savings Bank was<br />

built at the end of the 19 th century<br />

in a record time of only 15 months.<br />

The Necktie<br />

Croatia is the<br />

home of the<br />

necktie, an<br />

obligatory<br />

accessory for<br />

every business<br />

meeting. During<br />

the Thirty Years’<br />

War Croatian<br />

The Grounded Sun<br />

Arguably the most popular<br />

example of contemporary<br />

sculpture in <strong>Zagreb</strong> is The<br />

Grounded Sun <strong>by</strong> Ivan Kožarić.<br />

Set down amidst a forest of café<br />

tables and parasols, this simple<br />

but unusual bronze sphere is a<br />

source of constant intrigue to<br />

passers-<strong>by</strong>. Some even push it to<br />

see how far it will roll. Kožarić’s<br />

soldiers in the<br />

service of France<br />

wore exotic<br />

scarves around<br />

their necks,<br />

becoming a<br />

source of serious<br />

fascination to the<br />

style-conscious<br />

citizens of Paris.<br />

The practice of<br />

wearing such<br />

scarves à la croate<br />

was especially<br />

favoured <strong>by</strong> the<br />

Sun King, Louis<br />

XIV, and the<br />

necktie soon<br />

became a fashion<br />

hit all over Europe.<br />

sun inspired another artist Davor<br />

Preis to create the <strong>Zagreb</strong> Solar<br />

System, in which metal spheres<br />

representing the planets are<br />

placed in locations all around the<br />

city. The sizes of the planets and<br />

the distances separating them are<br />

all in exact proportion to Kožarić’s<br />

original sun: trying to find all nine<br />

planets presents a real adventure.<br />

The Napredak Skyscraper<br />

Looming over the corner of<br />

Bogovićeva and Gajeva is the<br />

curving façade of the Napredak<br />

(“Progress”) building, built <strong>by</strong> the<br />

Napredak Cultural Association in<br />

1936 to serve as business space<br />

and apartment accommodation.<br />

Designed <strong>by</strong> Stjepan Planić,<br />

the seven-storey building is<br />

characterized <strong>by</strong> the cogwheel<br />

motif that runs around the upper<br />

part of the façade. The cogwheel<br />

was the symbol of the association.<br />

The light blue colour of the facade<br />

is the architect’s homage to<br />

traditional architecture and the<br />

blue-coloured Copper Sulphate<br />

used <strong>by</strong> wine-growers in<br />

rural parts of Croatia to<br />

stop various vine diseases.<br />

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18. Ilica<br />

Ilica<br />

Of all the streets in <strong>Zagreb</strong>, Ilica<br />

is the one which the locals hold<br />

dearest. Six kilometers in length,<br />

it was for a long time the longest<br />

street in the city, although some<br />

of the newer multi-lane avenues<br />

are now longer. However Ilica<br />

remains the symbolic main<br />

artery of the city, with highstreet<br />

shops and government<br />

buildings lining its eastern end,<br />

theatres and markets (and even<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s first brewery) emerging<br />

as it moves west. It is also one<br />

of the rare streets that has kept<br />

the same name since its origins<br />

in the 15 th century. Because<br />

of its east-west direction it is<br />

famous for the bright sunlight<br />

that hits you as you walk<br />

westward in the late afternoon.<br />

Andrija Kačić Miošić<br />

Connecting Ilica with the Upper<br />

Town, Mesnička is a sloping<br />

street that still retains its old<br />

granite paving stones. It has its<br />

origins in the Middle Ages, when<br />

it was named after the butchers’<br />

shops (mesnička is Croatian<br />

for “butchers”) that used to run<br />

along its length. Standing at the<br />

bottom of the street from 1891<br />

is Ivan Rendić’s statue of Andrija<br />

Kačić Miošić (1704 – 1760), a<br />

friar, poet and educator best<br />

known for his Razgovor ugodni<br />

naroda slovinskoga (“Pleasant<br />

Conversation of the Slav People”),<br />

a history of Croatia written in<br />

verse. First published in 1756, it<br />

has been reprinted over 70 times,<br />

and remains the most frequently<br />

read piece of literature written<br />

in the Croatian language.<br />

Trams<br />

futuristic-looking<br />

The blue-liveried vehicles made <strong>by</strong><br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> tram is one the local Končar<br />

of the city’s most engineering<br />

easily identifiable works. Blue, the<br />

trademarks. Horsedrawn<br />

official colour of<br />

trams were <strong>Zagreb</strong>, became<br />

introduced as the standard<br />

far back as 1891, colour scheme for<br />

although electric the city’s trams<br />

trams took over in shortly after<br />

1910. A new sense World War I. There<br />

of style came to are currently<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s tramlines<br />

15 tram routes<br />

in 2006, with operating during<br />

the introduction the daytime,<br />

of the super-sleek, and 4 at night.<br />

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Andrija Kačić Miošić<br />

Britanski trg<br />

The Church of Saint Blaise<br />

Britanski trg<br />

Britanski trg (“British Square”)<br />

is a picturesque square with<br />

several names (Ilica Square,<br />

Small Market) famous for the<br />

fresh produce market that draws<br />

shoppers from all over the city on<br />

weekday mornings. On Sundays<br />

the square is taken over <strong>by</strong> a<br />

lively antiques and bric-a-brac<br />

market, which is as much a social<br />

occasion as a chance to pick<br />

up bargains. Lovers of antiques,<br />

old postcards, vinyl records and<br />

comics will have lots of fun<br />

browsing the stalls, and there are<br />

plenty of pavement cafes offering<br />

sunshine and strong coffee.<br />

The Church of Saint Blaise<br />

Standing at the intersection of<br />

Deželićeva and Primorska is a<br />

Church dedicated to St Blaise, a<br />

4 th -century martyr famous for<br />

his gift of curing throat illnesses.<br />

Begun in 1912, the church was<br />

designed <strong>by</strong> Viktor Kovačić and<br />

combines Byzantine influences,<br />

traditional Croatian styles and<br />

modern construction techniques<br />

to monumental effect. The<br />

re<strong>info</strong>rced concrete dome was<br />

the first of its kind in Croatia. An<br />

exceptionally beautiful Nativity<br />

scene, the work of sculptor Vojta<br />

Braniša from 1916, is exhibited<br />

every year around Christmas.<br />

Penkala (Pen)<br />

It was in <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

that a small but<br />

very important<br />

writing tool was<br />

born. At the<br />

beginning of<br />

the 20 th century,<br />

Slavoljub Penkala<br />

(1871 – 1922)<br />

developed a<br />

fountain pen that<br />

soon replaced the<br />

need for pen and<br />

separate ink bottle.<br />

Enthusiasm for<br />

Penkala’s invention<br />

spread like wildfire,<br />

and <strong>Zagreb</strong> became<br />

a major global<br />

centre for the<br />

production of not<br />

only fountain pens<br />

but mechanical<br />

pencils too.<br />

Penkala was a<br />

pioneer in other<br />

fields, successfully<br />

building and<br />

testing the<br />

first Croatian<br />

aeroplane in 1910.<br />

62 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


19.<br />

<br />

Jurišićeva<br />

Stjepan Radić<br />

Post Office<br />

The Stock Market<br />

HDLU<br />

Novakova<br />

Vlaška<br />

August Šenoa<br />

Jurišićeva<br />

The Stock Market<br />

Jurišićeva is the main business and<br />

commercial street leading east<br />

from <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s main square. As well<br />

as financial institutions, Jurišićeva<br />

boasts a large post office building<br />

dating from 1904 built in the<br />

Hungarian Art-Nouveu style. At the<br />

western end of the street, opposite<br />

the Radić bookstore, there is a statue<br />

of Stjepan Radić (1871 - 1928), a<br />

prominent Croatian politician who<br />

was fatally shot during a session of<br />

the Parliament in Belgrade. As leader<br />

of the Croatian Peasant Party Radić<br />

was an inspirational speaker and<br />

a genuine national leader, and he<br />

remains the most widely respected<br />

Croatian politician of all time.<br />

Viktor Kovačić,<br />

Croatian architect<br />

(1874 – 1924).<br />

Considered<br />

the father of<br />

Croatian modern<br />

architecture,<br />

Kovačić<br />

discarded the<br />

fancy decorative<br />

tastes of the late<br />

19 th century in<br />

favour of a much<br />

more pragmatic<br />

functionalist<br />

style. However<br />

he believed that<br />

architecture<br />

needed to<br />

create the right<br />

conditions for<br />

comfortable<br />

living, and always<br />

combined the<br />

best elements<br />

of traditional<br />

heritage with the<br />

contemporary<br />

taste for<br />

straight lines.<br />

At the eastern end of Jurišićeva,<br />

the fountain-splashed Trg<br />

hrvatskih velikana (“Square of the<br />

Great Croatians”) is dominated <strong>by</strong><br />

the former <strong>Zagreb</strong> Stock Exchange.<br />

Designed <strong>by</strong> Viktor Kovačić in<br />

1922, it employs simple classical<br />

elements to reflect the grand<br />

nature of the institution. The stock<br />

exchange for goods and valuables<br />

existed in <strong>Zagreb</strong> since 1907 but<br />

was closed down in 1945 because<br />

speculative institutions were not<br />

in line with the socialist agenda,<br />

and the building today houses<br />

the Croatian National Bank.<br />

64 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>


HDLU<br />

Novakova<br />

Vlaška<br />

The near<strong>by</strong> Trg žrtava fašizma<br />

(“Victims of Fascism Square”)<br />

centres on <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s most unique<br />

exhibition space, the circular<br />

headquarters of the Croatian<br />

Artist’s Association. Designed <strong>by</strong><br />

the sculptor Ivan Meštrović in<br />

the 1930s, it was originally used<br />

as an exhibition pavilion before<br />

being turned into a mosque during<br />

World War II – complete with the<br />

addition of minarets. After the<br />

war the minarets were dismantled<br />

and the building returned to<br />

its original function, although<br />

it is still referred to fondly as<br />

“the Mosque” <strong>by</strong> the locals.<br />

Twisting its way uphill from<br />

opposite the Ribnjak Park,<br />

Novakova is <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s bestpreserved<br />

example of a residential<br />

street of the inter-war era. It is<br />

lined with modern family villas<br />

built according to modernist<br />

principles, employing clean lines,<br />

flat roofs and large windows.<br />

Although clearly inspired <strong>by</strong><br />

international architectural trends<br />

of the time, the villas represent<br />

a blend of functionality and<br />

organic design that is typical of<br />

the <strong>Zagreb</strong> school of architecture.<br />

Vlaška is a street characterized<br />

<strong>by</strong> its row of well-preserved onestorey<br />

houses and traditional<br />

crafts workshops. Stretching<br />

below the walls of the Kaptol<br />

district, it was originally settled<br />

<strong>by</strong> Italian traders, which is how<br />

the street got its name - Italians<br />

were referred to as Vlasi in old<br />

Croatian. It was in Vlaška that<br />

the novelist August Šenoa was<br />

born, a fact commemorated <strong>by</strong><br />

the street-corner sculpture of him<br />

leaning against an advertising<br />

pillar, a work of sculptor Marija<br />

Ujević. The pillar is inscribed<br />

with one of Šenoa’s poems,<br />

eulogising the beautiful and<br />

proud city which he loved.<br />

Gingerbread<br />

Cookies<br />

Aromatic<br />

gingerbread<br />

cookies have<br />

been baked in<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> since<br />

time immemorial.<br />

Flavoured with<br />

honey, walnuts<br />

and pepper,<br />

these biscuits<br />

traditionally<br />

served as the<br />

principal sweet<br />

treat during the<br />

winter holidays.<br />

The sweet peppery<br />

taste goes best<br />

with a cup of<br />

warm tea. It is<br />

also good to<br />

know that the<br />

crisp gingerbread<br />

dough tastes<br />

better with time.<br />

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Outside<br />

the Centre<br />

The Technical Museum<br />

Vukovar Avenue<br />

The Museum of<br />

Contemporary Art<br />

The River Sava<br />

Bundek<br />

Jarun<br />

Mirogoj<br />

Maksimir Park<br />

Medvednica


Outside<br />

the Centre<br />

The Technical Museum<br />

The Technical Museum is located<br />

on Savska cesta, a busy street<br />

that connects the centre of the<br />

city with one of the main bridges<br />

across the river Sava. Housed in<br />

an innovative wooden pavilion<br />

dating from the 1950, the<br />

museum displays a host of notable<br />

scientific and technological<br />

achievements. Exhibits range<br />

from horse-drawn trams to space<br />

capsules, and visitors can even<br />

visit a replica mine-shaft or take<br />

part in experiments devised <strong>by</strong> the<br />

great Nikola Tesla. The main hall<br />

of the museum is taken up with<br />

a fascination display of vintage<br />

road vehicles and old aeroplanes.<br />

Croatia was a home to important<br />

innovators: along with Tesla, we<br />

can also mention Faust Vrančić<br />

and Ruđer Bošković, and you<br />

can learn something about all of<br />

them in the Technical Museum.<br />

Vukovar Avenue<br />

World War II was followed <strong>by</strong><br />

an exceptionally fruitful period<br />

for architectural projects in<br />

Croatia, and Vukovar Avenue is<br />

an outstanding example, with its<br />

thoughtfully planned series of tall<br />

residential buildings and state<br />

institutions. Croatian architects<br />

of that time resisted the dictates<br />

of socialist realism and opted for<br />

European modernist styles instead.<br />

A splendid new City Hall was<br />

designed <strong>by</strong> Kazimir Ostrogović,<br />

although it is outshone on the<br />

beauty stakes <strong>by</strong> Marijan Haberle’s<br />

Vatroslav Lisinski Concert<br />

Hall, opened in 1973. Lisinski<br />

(1819 – 1854) was the composer<br />

of the first ever Croatian opera,<br />

Love and Malice. Close to the<br />

concert hall is the splendid glassand-steel<br />

building of the National<br />

and University Library. Built in the<br />

1990s, it holds over 2.5 million<br />

books on 114 kilometres of shelves.<br />

The Museum<br />

of Contemporary Art<br />

South of the river Sava, Novi<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> (“New <strong>Zagreb</strong>”) is home<br />

to the brand-new Museum of<br />

Contemporary Art. The museum’s<br />

permanent collection includes<br />

both Croatian and international<br />

modern art from the 1950s to the<br />

present day. Completed in 2009,<br />

the museum building takes the<br />

form of an angular-looking wave<br />

pattern – a direct reference to the<br />

meander motif developed <strong>by</strong> the<br />

leading abstract artist Julije Knifer.<br />

In the new building on almost<br />

15,000 square meters enables<br />

people from <strong>Zagreb</strong> and visitors<br />

to the city to see original works<br />

of art ranging from sculptures<br />

and paintings to photographs,<br />

films, videos, installations or<br />

performances, all <strong>by</strong> Croatian and<br />

internationally recognized artists.<br />

Occasional exhibitions reflect<br />

current trends in the world of art.<br />

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Bundek<br />

The River Sava<br />

Jarun<br />

Adjacent to the river Sava lies<br />

the Bundek, a 35 hectare oasis<br />

of peace, greenery and nature<br />

on the edges of Novi <strong>Zagreb</strong>.<br />

Many locals come here at the<br />

weekend to exercise, walk and<br />

relax. The park is especially<br />

suitable for families, thanks to<br />

the presence of playgrounds for<br />

children of various ages. Anglers<br />

catch fish from lakes which are<br />

also home to ducks and swans.<br />

With a length of 940 km, the<br />

river Sava is one of the three<br />

longest rivers in Croatia, rising in<br />

Slovenia and flowing southeast<br />

to join the Danube in Belgrade.<br />

The river has always played an<br />

important role in the development<br />

of <strong>Zagreb</strong>. The city originally<br />

developed on the left bank of<br />

the Sava, but after World War II<br />

it spread to its right bank with<br />

the creation of the new parts of<br />

the city known as Novi <strong>Zagreb</strong>.<br />

In the past the river guarded the<br />

city from enemies but also posed<br />

a threat to when its waters rose<br />

and led to flooding. After the<br />

great flood of 1964, the flow of<br />

the Sava was tamed <strong>by</strong> building<br />

canals and earthen banks on<br />

either side of the river, which now<br />

serve as foot- and cycle-paths.<br />

Southwest of the city centre<br />

lies the man-made Lake Jarun,<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s very-own riviera.<br />

Consisting of a big and a small<br />

lake connected <strong>by</strong> a channel,<br />

Jarun was created <strong>by</strong> the digging<br />

of gravel from the backwaters of<br />

the Sava after the catastrophic<br />

flood of 1964. Jarun was<br />

developed into a recreation era<br />

in time for the World Student<br />

Games, which were held in<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> in 1987. Rowing facilities,<br />

sports grounds and cycling tracks<br />

were added, making Jarun the<br />

largest sports and recreational<br />

centre in the city. During the<br />

day Jarun can be teeming with<br />

people, whether they are simply<br />

out for a walk or engaged in<br />

more serious athletic training.<br />

The lakeside pebble beaches fill<br />

with bathers during the summer.<br />

In the evening, cafes and clubs<br />

along the lakefront attract people<br />

looking for a fun night out.<br />

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Mirogoj<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s main cemetery, Mirogoj,<br />

crowns a low hill just outside the<br />

city centre. Built in the late 19 th<br />

century <strong>by</strong> Hermann Bollé, it is a<br />

wonderful example of a grand civic<br />

graveyard, featuring monumental<br />

arcades, domed gatehouses<br />

and pavilion chapels. Opened in<br />

1876 with the funeral of fencing<br />

instructor Miroslav Singer, Mirogoj<br />

is the last resting place of many<br />

eminent Croats, their beautifully<br />

sculpted grave memorials giving<br />

the whole place the appearance<br />

of a park-like outdoor art<br />

gallery. Mirogoj accommodates<br />

people of all religions, which<br />

is why Catholic, Orthodox and<br />

Muslim symbols can be seen<br />

on many of the gravestones.<br />

Maksimir Park<br />

Main attraction in the eastern<br />

part of the city is Maksimir Park, a<br />

leafy oasis of greenery first opened<br />

as a public promenade <strong>by</strong> Bishop<br />

Maksimilijan Vrhovac in 1794. It<br />

was Vrhovac who arranged for the<br />

existing oak woods and meadows<br />

to be transformed into gardens<br />

in the French style. The resulting<br />

park was named Maksimir (“mir”<br />

being Croatian for peace) in<br />

honour of its founder. Occupying<br />

one corner of the park, <strong>Zagreb</strong> Zoo<br />

has grown considerably since the<br />

early 20 th century, when it opened<br />

to the public with a modest<br />

collection of three foxes and<br />

three owls. Today it is home to<br />

275 animal species, and occupies<br />

a 7-hectare area of beautifully<br />

laid-out flowerbeds and shrubs.<br />

Medvednica<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> is one of the few cities<br />

lucky enough to have a mountain<br />

right on its door<strong>step</strong>. Protected<br />

as a nature reserve, Mount<br />

Medvednica shelters <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

from cold northern winds. The<br />

mountain gets its name from the<br />

bears (medvjedi) who used to<br />

roam its wooded slopes, although<br />

none of the beasts remain on the<br />

mountain today. The 1,035-metre<br />

summit of Medvednica, known as<br />

Sljeme, is a popular destination<br />

for local hikers. Trails lead from<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong>’s suburbs right to the<br />

top, where mountain lodges<br />

serve hearty portions of grah<br />

(traditional bean stew) to those<br />

eager to restore their strength.<br />

The ski pistes on the northern<br />

slopes of Sljeme regularly host<br />

World Cup skiing events, with<br />

both men’s and women’s downhill<br />

events taking place in January.<br />

Herman Bollé, 1880. Among his<br />

architect and most important<br />

town planner achievements are<br />

(1845 – 1926). The the reconstruction<br />

German-born of <strong>Zagreb</strong>’s<br />

architect came to cathedral (whose<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> in 1876 to Neo-Gothic<br />

restore St. Mark’s spires are said<br />

Church in the Upper to be inspired <strong>by</strong><br />

Town. He then those in Bollé’s<br />

stayed on in <strong>Zagreb</strong>, birthplace of<br />

becoming the Cologne), the<br />

leading figure in the Neo-Renaissance<br />

renovation projects walls of Mirogoj<br />

that followed cemetery, and<br />

the catastrophic the Museum of<br />

earthquake of Arts and Crafts.<br />

74 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 75


<strong>Zagreb</strong> Tourist Board<br />

10000 <strong>Zagreb</strong><br />

Kaptol 5<br />

www.zagreb-<strong>tourist</strong><strong>info</strong>.hr<br />

<strong>info</strong>@zagreb-<strong>tourist</strong><strong>info</strong>.hr<br />

Publisher:<br />

<strong>Zagreb</strong> Tourist Board<br />

For Publisher:<br />

Amelia Tomašević, PhD<br />

Editor:<br />

Dražen Hochecker<br />

Text concept:<br />

Martina Petrinović<br />

Translation:<br />

Media translations<br />

Proofreader:<br />

Jonathan Bousfield<br />

Photos:<br />

Želimir Horvat<br />

Juraj Kopač<br />

Željko Krčadinac<br />

Patrik Macek<br />

Ivo Pervan<br />

Tomislav Rastić<br />

Tomislav Šklopan<br />

Ivor Vodanović<br />

Goran Vranić<br />

AMZ Archive<br />

HAZU Archive<br />

TZGZ Archive<br />

MGZ Phototeque<br />

Art director:<br />

Ivan Doroghy<br />

Design & Layout:<br />

DZN Studio<br />

Print:<br />

Birotisak<br />

ISBN 978-953-228-023-4<br />

<strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong> 77


78 <strong>Step</strong> <strong>by</strong> <strong>step</strong>

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