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Sep - Portland Yacht Club

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IRIS Continues to<br />

Cross Indian<br />

Ocean<br />

I<br />

was awakened by the different feel<br />

of the boat and then heard the<br />

autopilot alarm sound meaning it<br />

couldn't hold the course. I jumped up<br />

from a fairly sound sleep and dressed<br />

for deck with harness and shoes. It<br />

was 0030 hrs. Iris had rounded up. I<br />

turned off the autopilot and got us<br />

back on course. Re-engage, the autopilot<br />

would only steer right. With the<br />

help of Marty Kirk from Rogers Marine,<br />

I much later saw that the sensor<br />

arm had been broken from the hydraulic<br />

drive. The windvane paddle had<br />

broken off several days before and I<br />

was waiting for port to replace the broken<br />

safety tube. So there was nothing<br />

left to do but steer.<br />

Iris was in the eleventh day of the<br />

nearly 2000 miles passage from Cocos<br />

to Rodrigues Island. I was alone and to<br />

this point having a good passage. My<br />

young Swiss crew had departed Iris at<br />

Cocos. There had been a mutual falling<br />

out and having them leave worked out<br />

for the very best. Iris was a happy boat<br />

again. Things do work out for the best.<br />

When the autopilot went out I figured<br />

landfall could still be obtained during<br />

daylight that day if we continued. So I<br />

steered the rest of the night and day<br />

briefly heaving to so I could make coffee<br />

and grab something to eat.<br />

By 1150 hrs I could see the smudge of<br />

Rodrigues on the horizon. Several<br />

hours later I approached the entrance<br />

to the outside reef. A rain squall obliterated<br />

all visibility. It passed. The<br />

Coast Guard called me on 16 and directed<br />

me to enter the well marked<br />

dredged inner harbor and tie to the<br />

jetty. I told the officer that I was very<br />

tired and would like to just anchor and<br />

sleep and clear in the morning. He<br />

insisted. Iris was able to tie to the concrete<br />

wall ok as I turned off the engine<br />

and coasted in as the transmission cable<br />

was broken. Indonesian fisherman<br />

were standing by and took dock lines<br />

and stopped us. That was luck having<br />

them there as the dock is usually deserted.<br />

Iris was secured to the wall at 1620 hrs,<br />

12 days and 6 hours after rounding<br />

Hornsby Island at Cocos. The first<br />

four days propelled us with 25 to 30<br />

knot trade winds. In one 24-hour period,<br />

Iris covered 195 miles point to<br />

point with double reefed sails.<br />

There followed three weeks on a wonderful<br />

island which tourism has yet to<br />

find. There were no Internet cafes nor<br />

backpacker hotels. There seems to be<br />

only two nice beach resorts on the island<br />

and those are far from Port<br />

Mathurin. Also anchored at Port<br />

Mathurin was the British yacht Janet<br />

that I first encountered in Samoa in<br />

2008. My favorite activity was taking<br />

the local buses to different parts of the<br />

island then walking the beach or hill<br />

trails back to the boat. Of course I also<br />

enjoyed the selection of Mauritian rums<br />

and going to the market for fresh eggs<br />

and veggies. Mauritius English is the<br />

official language but people speak<br />

French or French Creole. Language<br />

never stopped the locals from being<br />

friendly and helpful.<br />

Towards the end of July a good<br />

weather window appeared for the relatively<br />

short 350 mile jump over to Mauritius.<br />

Light winds sounded good. I<br />

was getting geared up to leave on Saturday<br />

July 23rd. Friday looked good too<br />

but it is bad luck to began a passage on<br />

a Friday. Then early Thursday morning<br />

a boat sailed in and anchored under<br />

sail. I dinghyed over to greet them and<br />

learned they had sailed 2400 miles from<br />

Indonesia without engine or windvane.<br />

Three of them steered the whole way.<br />

One crewmember later asked me if she<br />

could sail on Iris to Mauritius as I was<br />

leaving soon. She wanted to clear this<br />

with her skipper first. She was a<br />

French backpacker who has more offshore<br />

sea miles and has visited and<br />

worked in more countries before 30<br />

then most people dream of doing in a<br />

life time. I said ok.<br />

We left on Saturday but not until midmorning<br />

as we had to clear and then<br />

had light to no wind for the three day<br />

sail to Port Louis, arriving at dawn on<br />

Tuesday. By afternoon Iris was tied to<br />

the downtown jetty which is just a few<br />

minutes walk to the downtown district<br />

with shops and the best open fruit market<br />

I've seen on the trip. It is just entertaining<br />

to swim through the sea of<br />

people at the market as it seems to be<br />

always crowded.<br />

Now two weeks later, Janet has arrived<br />

and we are exploring Mauritius. Yesterday<br />

Janet took the local bus south of<br />

town to a beach where she met crewmember<br />

Melanie on the beach and had<br />

lunch with her family who is visiting<br />

from Paris. Me I'm doing boat projects<br />

in an exotic place with the parts<br />

Janet has brought from home. Isn't<br />

that the definition of cruising<br />

The AIS alarm is great on these passages.<br />

It sounded the alarm for eight<br />

ships on the way to Rodriguis. None<br />

of which I could see. And then it identified<br />

three ship on the way to Maurituis.<br />

First there was GPS, then Sat<br />

phones and sailmail on HF radio, now<br />

AIS. Don't leave home without it.<br />

John Colby<br />

S/V Iris<br />

Photos Wanted for<br />

2012 Calendar<br />

T<br />

he<br />

PYC Calendar Committee is<br />

looking for photos for the PYC<br />

2012 calendar. If you would<br />

like to submit photos for consideration<br />

please send a full resolution digital copy<br />

to Terry Johnson at:<br />

tj622@comcast.net<br />

The photos should be of PYC member<br />

boats. The photos need to be submitted<br />

to Terry Johnson no later than <strong>Sep</strong>tember<br />

30.<br />

Terry Johnson<br />

S/V Ozymandias<br />

www.portlandyc.com <strong>Sep</strong>tember 2011 • 13

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