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IRIS Continues to<br />
Cross Indian<br />
Ocean<br />
I<br />
was awakened by the different feel<br />
of the boat and then heard the<br />
autopilot alarm sound meaning it<br />
couldn't hold the course. I jumped up<br />
from a fairly sound sleep and dressed<br />
for deck with harness and shoes. It<br />
was 0030 hrs. Iris had rounded up. I<br />
turned off the autopilot and got us<br />
back on course. Re-engage, the autopilot<br />
would only steer right. With the<br />
help of Marty Kirk from Rogers Marine,<br />
I much later saw that the sensor<br />
arm had been broken from the hydraulic<br />
drive. The windvane paddle had<br />
broken off several days before and I<br />
was waiting for port to replace the broken<br />
safety tube. So there was nothing<br />
left to do but steer.<br />
Iris was in the eleventh day of the<br />
nearly 2000 miles passage from Cocos<br />
to Rodrigues Island. I was alone and to<br />
this point having a good passage. My<br />
young Swiss crew had departed Iris at<br />
Cocos. There had been a mutual falling<br />
out and having them leave worked out<br />
for the very best. Iris was a happy boat<br />
again. Things do work out for the best.<br />
When the autopilot went out I figured<br />
landfall could still be obtained during<br />
daylight that day if we continued. So I<br />
steered the rest of the night and day<br />
briefly heaving to so I could make coffee<br />
and grab something to eat.<br />
By 1150 hrs I could see the smudge of<br />
Rodrigues on the horizon. Several<br />
hours later I approached the entrance<br />
to the outside reef. A rain squall obliterated<br />
all visibility. It passed. The<br />
Coast Guard called me on 16 and directed<br />
me to enter the well marked<br />
dredged inner harbor and tie to the<br />
jetty. I told the officer that I was very<br />
tired and would like to just anchor and<br />
sleep and clear in the morning. He<br />
insisted. Iris was able to tie to the concrete<br />
wall ok as I turned off the engine<br />
and coasted in as the transmission cable<br />
was broken. Indonesian fisherman<br />
were standing by and took dock lines<br />
and stopped us. That was luck having<br />
them there as the dock is usually deserted.<br />
Iris was secured to the wall at 1620 hrs,<br />
12 days and 6 hours after rounding<br />
Hornsby Island at Cocos. The first<br />
four days propelled us with 25 to 30<br />
knot trade winds. In one 24-hour period,<br />
Iris covered 195 miles point to<br />
point with double reefed sails.<br />
There followed three weeks on a wonderful<br />
island which tourism has yet to<br />
find. There were no Internet cafes nor<br />
backpacker hotels. There seems to be<br />
only two nice beach resorts on the island<br />
and those are far from Port<br />
Mathurin. Also anchored at Port<br />
Mathurin was the British yacht Janet<br />
that I first encountered in Samoa in<br />
2008. My favorite activity was taking<br />
the local buses to different parts of the<br />
island then walking the beach or hill<br />
trails back to the boat. Of course I also<br />
enjoyed the selection of Mauritian rums<br />
and going to the market for fresh eggs<br />
and veggies. Mauritius English is the<br />
official language but people speak<br />
French or French Creole. Language<br />
never stopped the locals from being<br />
friendly and helpful.<br />
Towards the end of July a good<br />
weather window appeared for the relatively<br />
short 350 mile jump over to Mauritius.<br />
Light winds sounded good. I<br />
was getting geared up to leave on Saturday<br />
July 23rd. Friday looked good too<br />
but it is bad luck to began a passage on<br />
a Friday. Then early Thursday morning<br />
a boat sailed in and anchored under<br />
sail. I dinghyed over to greet them and<br />
learned they had sailed 2400 miles from<br />
Indonesia without engine or windvane.<br />
Three of them steered the whole way.<br />
One crewmember later asked me if she<br />
could sail on Iris to Mauritius as I was<br />
leaving soon. She wanted to clear this<br />
with her skipper first. She was a<br />
French backpacker who has more offshore<br />
sea miles and has visited and<br />
worked in more countries before 30<br />
then most people dream of doing in a<br />
life time. I said ok.<br />
We left on Saturday but not until midmorning<br />
as we had to clear and then<br />
had light to no wind for the three day<br />
sail to Port Louis, arriving at dawn on<br />
Tuesday. By afternoon Iris was tied to<br />
the downtown jetty which is just a few<br />
minutes walk to the downtown district<br />
with shops and the best open fruit market<br />
I've seen on the trip. It is just entertaining<br />
to swim through the sea of<br />
people at the market as it seems to be<br />
always crowded.<br />
Now two weeks later, Janet has arrived<br />
and we are exploring Mauritius. Yesterday<br />
Janet took the local bus south of<br />
town to a beach where she met crewmember<br />
Melanie on the beach and had<br />
lunch with her family who is visiting<br />
from Paris. Me I'm doing boat projects<br />
in an exotic place with the parts<br />
Janet has brought from home. Isn't<br />
that the definition of cruising<br />
The AIS alarm is great on these passages.<br />
It sounded the alarm for eight<br />
ships on the way to Rodriguis. None<br />
of which I could see. And then it identified<br />
three ship on the way to Maurituis.<br />
First there was GPS, then Sat<br />
phones and sailmail on HF radio, now<br />
AIS. Don't leave home without it.<br />
John Colby<br />
S/V Iris<br />
Photos Wanted for<br />
2012 Calendar<br />
T<br />
he<br />
PYC Calendar Committee is<br />
looking for photos for the PYC<br />
2012 calendar. If you would<br />
like to submit photos for consideration<br />
please send a full resolution digital copy<br />
to Terry Johnson at:<br />
tj622@comcast.net<br />
The photos should be of PYC member<br />
boats. The photos need to be submitted<br />
to Terry Johnson no later than <strong>Sep</strong>tember<br />
30.<br />
Terry Johnson<br />
S/V Ozymandias<br />
www.portlandyc.com <strong>Sep</strong>tember 2011 • 13