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HVAR, the fourth-largest of the Croatian Adriatic islands, and
by far the sunniest of all, was recently voted one of the world’s
ten most beautiful islands by readers of the Condé Nast »Traveller«
magazine. And not just for its climate: surrounded by azure
water, Hvar is Dalmatia’s best-kept secret. Culture and tradition
have survived a tumultuous history while varied topography,
flora and architecture provide the backdrop.
Hvar can be reached easily and cheaply from many European
airports, thanks to the admittedly environmentally controversial
low cost carriers. A ticket to Split, the nearest airport, can be
had for less than EUR100. Depending on the departure airport,
flights take only a few hours.
The normal route from Split to Hvar is by water and is generally
via one of the ferries that departs from Split’s harbour. Other
travellers approach the island either by helicopter, private luxury
yacht or, as I did, by speedboat. The latter lent my trip a special
touch. In spite of the strong wind and a noticeable swell, our
boat reached 30 knots. Salty sea spray in my face and a breeze in
my hair cleaned out the last of the city cobwebs.
We passed an exciting coastline, whose light grey, almost white
cliffs shone in the sunlight. We passed groups of traditional
stone houses with salmon-coloured roofs, scattered on the steep
slopes and interesting hill formations with green bobble caps.
Proud sail yachts and powerful motorboats were on the move all
around us. The Croatian islands offer unguessed-at possibilities
and undiscovered holiday refuges, particularly for the amateur
sailor. And there is plenty of space to cope with its popularity:
Croatia has a coastline 1,778 km in length. If one includes
the coasts of the approximately 1,250 offshore islands, the figure
even rises to 6,176 km. A tourist superlative.
Despite the high number of islands, on closer observation, one
sees that only 43 of Croatia’s islands are inhabited, due to their
unviable size or lack of drinking water – which of course doesn’t
mean that holidaymakers can’t enjoy every aspect of the populated
ones...
Moving along the Hvar coastline, we passed fantastically beautiful,
solitary beaches, and then a hotel directly on the beach in a
bay. In the next bay we saw the Amfora Hotel, with its breathtaking
ensemble of modern hotel complex, a yacht club, a beach
and the spa, wellness club and »Bonj les Bains« Restaurant. With
its 1930s architecture, the gently curving colonnaded building
is still eyecatching. And – as I later discovered – in view of the
choiceness of its cuisine, massages and relaxing options, the ideal
herald for what was waiting in the next bay.
Hvar’s little harbour welcomed me in golden sunshine. In front
of me was a historic harbour basin made out of white volcanic
stone blocks, worn down over the centuries. It is surrounded
by wonderful buildings in Sicilian, Romanesque and Renaissance
styles, creating an overwhelming impression. Especially
since the preservation and restoration of the buildings, many of
which are over 300 years old, have been as conservative as the
city’s conquest by the ubiquitous souvenir shop and snack bar.
Although these exist, they are so carefully integrated into the
historic structure, that one almost has to look for them.
My hotel and destination was exactly opposite our dock and the
Riva Yacht Hotel. The sun dried the saltwater in my hair as, relieved
of the weight of my luggage, I walked the short distance
around the harbour to the Adriana.
As a member of »The Leading Small Hotels of the World«, the
Adriana appeals from the first glance with its contemporary look
and a clever architectural concept. Concealed behind a simple and
elegant sandstone façade with narrow shutters are generous restaurant
and lobby spaces, two bars, an indoor saltwater pool, the
Sensori Spa with a large number of treatment rooms and seven
terraces with massage tents and jacuzzi.
There are 59 guest rooms of two carefully composed types, whose
mix of materials and styles is versatile and appealing at the same
time. Many of the rooms offer a fantastic view of the harbour,
filled with equally impressive yachts. The rooms of the Sensori Spa
and the spacious pool area in particular are captivating with their
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