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nuances and structure in a grape called montepulciano (not to<br />

be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano, where<br />

they make something called Vino Nobile based on sangiovese).<br />

Montepulciano – the grape – is widely grown in the lowercost<br />

region of central Italy called Abruzzo. Drinkable<br />

examples are as low as NT$350, and very good ones can be<br />

had for NT$400 to 700. Another option is the sangiovesebased<br />

reds from Tuscany’s neighboring (and generally less<br />

expensive) region of Umbria. A good choice is the Aldiano<br />

Montepulcino D’Abruzzo DOC 2007 at NT$750, it’s quite<br />

suave, but not Soave.<br />

BArolo vS. gATTinArA<br />

The so-called king of Italian reds, Barolo, now costs a king’s<br />

ransom: roughly NT$2,500 and up a bottle. It’s made in the<br />

Piedmont region from the highly tannic, acidic nebbiolo grape.<br />

And, quite frankly, it tastes like no wine produced in any<br />

other region in the world. Which is why the best substitute<br />

may be Gattinara, a red based mainly or entirely on nebbiolo<br />

in a town not far from Barolo in Piedmont. Prices for<br />

Gattinara, which tends to have less endurance in the cellar,<br />

are about half those of Barolo. I think you can find some<br />

great wines in Gattinara, although not often found here in<br />

Taiwan. I can't really find a drinking substitute for Borolo<br />

other than Borolo here in Taipei, so I am drinking the Zonin<br />

Valpolicella Ripasso 2007 (NT 800) made from the Corvina<br />

and Rondinella grapes, although bolder, spicier and juicier<br />

than Borolo's Nebiolo grape, this satisfies my Italian craving<br />

just fine. A big unctuous mouthful of yummy, let it breathe.<br />

I can't really find a drinking substitute for Borolo other<br />

than Borolo here in Taipei, so I am drinking the Zonin<br />

Valpolicella Ripasso 2007 (NT 800) made from the Corvina<br />

and Rondinella grapes, although bolder, spicier and juicier<br />

than Borolo's Nebiolo grape, this satisfies my Italian craving<br />

just fine. A big unctuous mouthful of yummy, let it breathe.<br />

SAncerre vS. TourAine<br />

A crisp, grassy, iconic white, Sancerre is made from<br />

sauvignon blanc in the Sancerre district of France’s Loire<br />

Valley, where the grape achieves a sublime balance of citruslike<br />

fruitiness, herbal-grassy notes and a sort of stone-like<br />

mineral quality. It’s the perfect spring tonic, a fine match for<br />

lightly dressed salads and vegetable dishes as well as a variety<br />

of cheeses (especially goat). Sancerres usually cost between<br />

NT$800 and 1,400 a bottle though, which is serious coin<br />

for most people. At about half the price you could uncork<br />

a lesser-known Touraine. Made from the same white grape<br />

not far from Sancerre, Touraine wines usually are priced from<br />

NT$NT350 to 600 and do an impressive Sancerre imitation.<br />

My favorites because of their availability here in Taipei are the<br />

many fine Sauvignon Blancs, especially the Reserve designations<br />

coming out of the Chilean Valleys. NT$350 - 700 buys good<br />

value with a lot of diversity in their flavor pro<strong>file</strong>s. Valdivieso’s<br />

2007 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc at NT$550 is awesome, and its<br />

sibling 2007 Sauvignon Blanc is a best buy at NT$350.<br />

chArdonnAy vS. chArdonnAy<br />

Here it’s Old World white Burgundy and expensive<br />

California and New Zealand ‘Brands’ versus New World<br />

affordability. There is no comparison between the two, but<br />

there is satisfaction to be had. South Africa, Australia, Chile<br />

and Argentina are abundant and affordable here in Taiwan.<br />

Argentine’s Dona Paula 2007 Estate Chardonnay at NT$550<br />

is sophisticated, while Valdivieso’s 2006 Reserve Chardonnay<br />

has bottle age and is drinking beautifully at NT$550. For<br />

ultra value try Valdivieso’s 2008 Chardonnay for NT$350;<br />

your money goes a long way here.<br />

chAmpAgne vS. cAvA<br />

My preference is for the dry sparkling wines of northeast<br />

Spain as a dirt cheap substitute for NT$2,000 and up<br />

Champagne. Made using the traditional, labor-intensive<br />

process perfected in the Champagne region of France (in<br />

which the bubbles form naturally inside the bottle with the<br />

addition of yeast and sugar), Cavas generally cost between<br />

NT$600 and 900. Cavas are my preference compared with<br />

today’s trendier choice, Prosecco. Good Prosecco from Italy<br />

is a riskier navigation, but if you stick with the Gancia label<br />

(Italy’s oldest producer) you will be delighted. Gancia’s Pinot<br />

di Pinot “Rose” for NT$540 is dry enough and satisfies while<br />

Jane Ventura Cava at NT$599 is delightfully elegant.<br />

Well that’s it for this month’s quaff. See you out and about<br />

town my friends.<br />

Bon Boire.<br />

april 2010 gAllery<br />

oil paintings by Ah-ping Wu<br />

a dancing Soul From the Beginning<br />

Ping is a local artist from Beitou who has<br />

dedicated herself to children’s art education<br />

for over three decades. as an artist her<br />

skill is mature, yet her paintings glow with<br />

a child’s heart, sentiment, thoughtfulness,<br />

and innocence. In her exhibition at<br />

The <strong>Center</strong>, Ping explores in a way that<br />

approximates a kind of Zen, the essence of<br />

life through painting freely and joyfully.<br />

great pottery items<br />

elizabeth S T Lim brings you beautiful<br />

mugs, aromatherapy oil bottle necklaces<br />

and other great pottery items for yourself<br />

and your loved ones. all items are made<br />

in Yingge, Taiwan's home of pottery.<br />

handmade cotton bags from "gide"<br />

meili Kou offers a selection of handmade<br />

cotton bags from her company, gide.<br />

Select from small bags for jewelry to<br />

shopping bags to backpacks. many<br />

are decorated with cats and traditional<br />

Chinese gold nuggets. You will find many<br />

uses for these versatile bags.<br />

A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery go to The <strong>Center</strong>, so please remember that by displaying and<br />

shopping here you are helping us to provide much needed services to the international community.<br />

Apr 2010<br />

23

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