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nuances and structure in a grape called montepulciano (not to<br />
be confused with the Tuscan town of Montepulciano, where<br />
they make something called Vino Nobile based on sangiovese).<br />
Montepulciano – the grape – is widely grown in the lowercost<br />
region of central Italy called Abruzzo. Drinkable<br />
examples are as low as NT$350, and very good ones can be<br />
had for NT$400 to 700. Another option is the sangiovesebased<br />
reds from Tuscany’s neighboring (and generally less<br />
expensive) region of Umbria. A good choice is the Aldiano<br />
Montepulcino D’Abruzzo DOC 2007 at NT$750, it’s quite<br />
suave, but not Soave.<br />
BArolo vS. gATTinArA<br />
The so-called king of Italian reds, Barolo, now costs a king’s<br />
ransom: roughly NT$2,500 and up a bottle. It’s made in the<br />
Piedmont region from the highly tannic, acidic nebbiolo grape.<br />
And, quite frankly, it tastes like no wine produced in any<br />
other region in the world. Which is why the best substitute<br />
may be Gattinara, a red based mainly or entirely on nebbiolo<br />
in a town not far from Barolo in Piedmont. Prices for<br />
Gattinara, which tends to have less endurance in the cellar,<br />
are about half those of Barolo. I think you can find some<br />
great wines in Gattinara, although not often found here in<br />
Taiwan. I can't really find a drinking substitute for Borolo<br />
other than Borolo here in Taipei, so I am drinking the Zonin<br />
Valpolicella Ripasso 2007 (NT 800) made from the Corvina<br />
and Rondinella grapes, although bolder, spicier and juicier<br />
than Borolo's Nebiolo grape, this satisfies my Italian craving<br />
just fine. A big unctuous mouthful of yummy, let it breathe.<br />
I can't really find a drinking substitute for Borolo other<br />
than Borolo here in Taipei, so I am drinking the Zonin<br />
Valpolicella Ripasso 2007 (NT 800) made from the Corvina<br />
and Rondinella grapes, although bolder, spicier and juicier<br />
than Borolo's Nebiolo grape, this satisfies my Italian craving<br />
just fine. A big unctuous mouthful of yummy, let it breathe.<br />
SAncerre vS. TourAine<br />
A crisp, grassy, iconic white, Sancerre is made from<br />
sauvignon blanc in the Sancerre district of France’s Loire<br />
Valley, where the grape achieves a sublime balance of citruslike<br />
fruitiness, herbal-grassy notes and a sort of stone-like<br />
mineral quality. It’s the perfect spring tonic, a fine match for<br />
lightly dressed salads and vegetable dishes as well as a variety<br />
of cheeses (especially goat). Sancerres usually cost between<br />
NT$800 and 1,400 a bottle though, which is serious coin<br />
for most people. At about half the price you could uncork<br />
a lesser-known Touraine. Made from the same white grape<br />
not far from Sancerre, Touraine wines usually are priced from<br />
NT$NT350 to 600 and do an impressive Sancerre imitation.<br />
My favorites because of their availability here in Taipei are the<br />
many fine Sauvignon Blancs, especially the Reserve designations<br />
coming out of the Chilean Valleys. NT$350 - 700 buys good<br />
value with a lot of diversity in their flavor pro<strong>file</strong>s. Valdivieso’s<br />
2007 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc at NT$550 is awesome, and its<br />
sibling 2007 Sauvignon Blanc is a best buy at NT$350.<br />
chArdonnAy vS. chArdonnAy<br />
Here it’s Old World white Burgundy and expensive<br />
California and New Zealand ‘Brands’ versus New World<br />
affordability. There is no comparison between the two, but<br />
there is satisfaction to be had. South Africa, Australia, Chile<br />
and Argentina are abundant and affordable here in Taiwan.<br />
Argentine’s Dona Paula 2007 Estate Chardonnay at NT$550<br />
is sophisticated, while Valdivieso’s 2006 Reserve Chardonnay<br />
has bottle age and is drinking beautifully at NT$550. For<br />
ultra value try Valdivieso’s 2008 Chardonnay for NT$350;<br />
your money goes a long way here.<br />
chAmpAgne vS. cAvA<br />
My preference is for the dry sparkling wines of northeast<br />
Spain as a dirt cheap substitute for NT$2,000 and up<br />
Champagne. Made using the traditional, labor-intensive<br />
process perfected in the Champagne region of France (in<br />
which the bubbles form naturally inside the bottle with the<br />
addition of yeast and sugar), Cavas generally cost between<br />
NT$600 and 900. Cavas are my preference compared with<br />
today’s trendier choice, Prosecco. Good Prosecco from Italy<br />
is a riskier navigation, but if you stick with the Gancia label<br />
(Italy’s oldest producer) you will be delighted. Gancia’s Pinot<br />
di Pinot “Rose” for NT$540 is dry enough and satisfies while<br />
Jane Ventura Cava at NT$599 is delightfully elegant.<br />
Well that’s it for this month’s quaff. See you out and about<br />
town my friends.<br />
Bon Boire.<br />
april 2010 gAllery<br />
oil paintings by Ah-ping Wu<br />
a dancing Soul From the Beginning<br />
Ping is a local artist from Beitou who has<br />
dedicated herself to children’s art education<br />
for over three decades. as an artist her<br />
skill is mature, yet her paintings glow with<br />
a child’s heart, sentiment, thoughtfulness,<br />
and innocence. In her exhibition at<br />
The <strong>Center</strong>, Ping explores in a way that<br />
approximates a kind of Zen, the essence of<br />
life through painting freely and joyfully.<br />
great pottery items<br />
elizabeth S T Lim brings you beautiful<br />
mugs, aromatherapy oil bottle necklaces<br />
and other great pottery items for yourself<br />
and your loved ones. all items are made<br />
in Yingge, Taiwan's home of pottery.<br />
handmade cotton bags from "gide"<br />
meili Kou offers a selection of handmade<br />
cotton bags from her company, gide.<br />
Select from small bags for jewelry to<br />
shopping bags to backpacks. many<br />
are decorated with cats and traditional<br />
Chinese gold nuggets. You will find many<br />
uses for these versatile bags.<br />
A percentage of all proceeds of items sold at the Gallery go to The <strong>Center</strong>, so please remember that by displaying and<br />
shopping here you are helping us to provide much needed services to the international community.<br />
Apr 2010<br />
23