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dk nkf - Nordisk Konservatorforbund Danmark

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Figure 6. The Astrolon Watch “Idea 2001”<br />

(manufacturers of alarm clocks already used ebonite<br />

or phenoplast for cases half a century earlier [35]). In<br />

the 1970s polymers were introduced in movements<br />

until watches were almost completely made of plastic<br />

(except for the balance, spiral and barrel). Two watches<br />

thus marked the history of the clock industry: first,<br />

in 1971, the Astrolon watch, from Tissot (fig. 6), the<br />

“first mechanical watch made of plastic” which was a<br />

technical success but a commercial failure; and then of<br />

course, in 1982, the well known Swatch watch (fig.7).<br />

Even if they were and are still used in all product<br />

ranges, plastics remain associated with down-market<br />

watches. It is for this reason too that these materials<br />

have a fundamental cultural value, because they<br />

are associated with the democratisation of watches<br />

and the sociological changes to which they testify.<br />

Claude-Alain Künzi thus underlines the historical<br />

interest and the social and symbolic impact of cheap<br />

watches: “in the 19 th century, making it possible for<br />

workmen to own a watch meant giving them a way<br />

to control working time, by exercising control over<br />

hours deducted by the owner.” [36]. It is thus a true<br />

“countervailing power” which was often commented<br />

upon by Marx and Engels [37].<br />

Clockmaking in the Neuchâtel mountains was always<br />

characterised by a variety of products, including the<br />

“economic” watch, optimising value for money and<br />

the cheap watch sometimes sacrificing quality for<br />

price [38]. J.-M. Barrelet describes a heterogeneous<br />

production often of low quality and quite removed<br />

from the image one has of a prestige industry [39]:<br />

“The absence of corporation in the Mountains<br />

allowed great creative freedom. Anything could be<br />

produced: large volume clocks, simple systems and<br />

relatively cheap pocket watches, as well as more<br />

refined even luxurious pendulums, automata, etc<br />

(…). Anything appeared on the market, including<br />

the best and (often) the worst, to the great chagrin<br />

of upholders of tradition who called for firmer<br />

regulation of the profession and its commercial and<br />

technical standards” [40]. Therefore the strength of<br />

the Swiss watch and clock industry, in addition, was<br />

that it developed in each period a range of low-priced<br />

watches, from Roskopf’s Proletarian (fig.8) in 1867,<br />

to the famous Swatch of the 1980s. Historians have<br />

recently become aware of this: “The objects also<br />

embody these deep-rooted changes. Luxury or cheap<br />

watches, charms or works of art, they express the<br />

potential of the Neuchâtel watch and clockmaking<br />

system as much as its limits” [41].<br />

Plastics played a major role in technical developments<br />

which accompanied watch and clockmaking,<br />

testifying to this industry’s dynamism which,<br />

contrary to the conservative image that one might<br />

have, was always at the cutting edge of innovation.<br />

Thus, from the 19 th century, Neuchâtel clock and<br />

Figure 7. A model of a Swatch watch<br />

113

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