dk nkf - Nordisk Konservatorforbund Danmark
dk nkf - Nordisk Konservatorforbund Danmark
dk nkf - Nordisk Konservatorforbund Danmark
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Figure 6. The Astrolon Watch “Idea 2001”<br />
(manufacturers of alarm clocks already used ebonite<br />
or phenoplast for cases half a century earlier [35]). In<br />
the 1970s polymers were introduced in movements<br />
until watches were almost completely made of plastic<br />
(except for the balance, spiral and barrel). Two watches<br />
thus marked the history of the clock industry: first,<br />
in 1971, the Astrolon watch, from Tissot (fig. 6), the<br />
“first mechanical watch made of plastic” which was a<br />
technical success but a commercial failure; and then of<br />
course, in 1982, the well known Swatch watch (fig.7).<br />
Even if they were and are still used in all product<br />
ranges, plastics remain associated with down-market<br />
watches. It is for this reason too that these materials<br />
have a fundamental cultural value, because they<br />
are associated with the democratisation of watches<br />
and the sociological changes to which they testify.<br />
Claude-Alain Künzi thus underlines the historical<br />
interest and the social and symbolic impact of cheap<br />
watches: “in the 19 th century, making it possible for<br />
workmen to own a watch meant giving them a way<br />
to control working time, by exercising control over<br />
hours deducted by the owner.” [36]. It is thus a true<br />
“countervailing power” which was often commented<br />
upon by Marx and Engels [37].<br />
Clockmaking in the Neuchâtel mountains was always<br />
characterised by a variety of products, including the<br />
“economic” watch, optimising value for money and<br />
the cheap watch sometimes sacrificing quality for<br />
price [38]. J.-M. Barrelet describes a heterogeneous<br />
production often of low quality and quite removed<br />
from the image one has of a prestige industry [39]:<br />
“The absence of corporation in the Mountains<br />
allowed great creative freedom. Anything could be<br />
produced: large volume clocks, simple systems and<br />
relatively cheap pocket watches, as well as more<br />
refined even luxurious pendulums, automata, etc<br />
(…). Anything appeared on the market, including<br />
the best and (often) the worst, to the great chagrin<br />
of upholders of tradition who called for firmer<br />
regulation of the profession and its commercial and<br />
technical standards” [40]. Therefore the strength of<br />
the Swiss watch and clock industry, in addition, was<br />
that it developed in each period a range of low-priced<br />
watches, from Roskopf’s Proletarian (fig.8) in 1867,<br />
to the famous Swatch of the 1980s. Historians have<br />
recently become aware of this: “The objects also<br />
embody these deep-rooted changes. Luxury or cheap<br />
watches, charms or works of art, they express the<br />
potential of the Neuchâtel watch and clockmaking<br />
system as much as its limits” [41].<br />
Plastics played a major role in technical developments<br />
which accompanied watch and clockmaking,<br />
testifying to this industry’s dynamism which,<br />
contrary to the conservative image that one might<br />
have, was always at the cutting edge of innovation.<br />
Thus, from the 19 th century, Neuchâtel clock and<br />
Figure 7. A model of a Swatch watch<br />
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