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Play safe<br />

always wear protective gear<br />

for action sports<br />

Helmets significantly reduce<br />

the chances of head injury<br />

Knee and elbow pads protect vulnerable joints<br />

Wrist guards help prevent sprains<br />

check out our wide range<br />

of branded protective gear for<br />

skateboarding, inline skating<br />

and scooter riding<br />

Disclaimer: The information provided in this brochure is intended to serve<br />

as a guideline only. <strong>Sportsmans</strong> <strong>Warehouse</strong>, its parent company and its staff<br />

accept no liability for any injuries incurred during the action sports mentioned.<br />

<strong>Sportsmans</strong>W<br />

For your nearest store call 0800 003 051 toll-free or visit www.sportsmanswarehouse.co.za<br />

E&OE<br />

www.zoomadvertising.co.za 48393/SPRT494<br />

ACTION<br />

SPORTS<br />

your guide to quality equipment<br />

skateboards • inline skates • scooters<br />

<strong>Sportsmans</strong>W<br />

For your nearest store call 0800 003 051 toll-free or visit www.sportsmanswarehouse.co.za


sKaTeBOarD components<br />

deck • grip tape • trucks • hardware • wheels • bearings<br />

Deck<br />

Material: Most decks are constructed from between 6- and 9-ply laminated wood -<br />

chinese maple (for entry-level boards) or canadian maple (for high-end boards). Some are strengthened<br />

with materials such as fibreglass, bamboo, resin, Kevlar, carbon fibre, aluminium and plastic.<br />

Size: Modern decks vary in size, but most are 7 to 10,5 inches (17,78 to 26,67 cm) wide. Your choice will be<br />

influenced by your foot size. Wider decks provide greater stability for transition or ramp skating. Narrower decks<br />

allow for quick rotation. Length of board varies between 28 and 33 inches (71,12 and 83,82 cm).<br />

The longboard, a common variant also called a cruiser, is mostly ridden down hills or on beachside pavements<br />

or boardwalks to mimic wave-riding.<br />

construction: A skateboard has an upturned nose and tail and a concave centre. The nose is usually longer and<br />

thicker than the tail. Both are called ‘kicktails’ and they are vital in manoeuvring the board, particularly for street<br />

skateboarding. They help with big tricks, pivots, slides, ollies (where rider and board leap into the air without the<br />

rider using his hands) and more.<br />

Wheelbase: The distance between the two sets of mounting holes drilled into the<br />

deck for the trucks is usually about 13 to 15 inches (33 to 38 cm). Taller people<br />

prefer a wider wheelbase, which lets them widen their stance while skating.<br />

wheelbase<br />

Grip tape<br />

This is a rough material that enables your feet to grip the deck. It has a surface like fine sandpaper on one side and<br />

adhesive on the other. Replacement grip tape is available in varying levels of coarseness. While it is usually black,<br />

other colours, as well as clear, are available. You can get creative and cut shapes<br />

into your grip tape, e.g. to show a graphic on the board underneath.<br />

truckS<br />

These connect the wheels to the deck and are usually made from aluminium alloy. Each skateboard has two trucks,<br />

each with two wheels. Trucks have tough, adjustable bushings which help the rider steer the board, as he or she<br />

applies more weight to one side of the deck.<br />

The baseplate of each truck is screwed to the deck and underneath it is the hanger,<br />

with the axle running through it. Between the two are bushings and rubbers or<br />

grommets. A kingpin holds these together and by tightening or loosening the kingpin nut,<br />

the trucks can either be loosened for better turning or tightened for increased stability.<br />

A variety of axle widths is available. Wider axles are used for wider boards.<br />

The special trucks for longboards have a kingpin at a more obtuse angle, which permits less turning for the same tilt<br />

of the deck, thus allowing riders to go faster, with a wider carving motion, while still keeping stable and in control.<br />

MountinG harDWare<br />

Eight 10-32 UNC bolts, usually with an Allen or Phillips head, together with matching nylon locknuts, are used to<br />

attach the trucks to the skateboard. Some sets may have one differently coloured bolt which indicates which side<br />

must face the nose of the skateboard.<br />

hanger<br />

baseplate<br />

kingpin<br />

axle<br />

grommet<br />

WheelS<br />

Size: The larger wheels (54 to 85 mm diameter) roll faster and cope<br />

better with cracks in the pavement. Smaller wheels (48 to 54 mm)<br />

keep the board closer to the ground, resulting in a lower centre of<br />

gravity. They need less force to accelerate.<br />

Material: Advanced polymers are used, usually polyurethane.<br />

Degree of hardness: This is measured by a Durometer and is mostly<br />

expressed as somewhere on the ‘A-scale’ which extends from 70 - 100.<br />

The higher the A-scale number, the harder the wheel. An average street<br />

skateboard wheel is 95A, and softer wheels can be 70A or even lower.<br />

Which wheel for your purpose?<br />

A good general choice is wheels between 52 and 54 mm, with 99A hardness.<br />

For riding ramps (or ‘verts’/vertical ramps) you want to roll much faster, so choose<br />

larger wheels (55 to 65 mm) with a hardness of 95-100A. (Start with 60 mm wheels.)<br />

Slalom skating demands the highest possible speeds, so choose even larger wheels<br />

of 60 to 75 mm, with a softer A rating. Longboarding/cruising and downhill<br />

skateboarding require large wheels (65 to 100 mm), which are softer (78A to 85A)<br />

for riding over rough terrain. For flip tricks many street/technical skateboarders prefer<br />

smaller wheels, which are lighter and closer to the ground, such as those 50 to 55 mm,<br />

with a hardness of 97A to 100A. A good all-terrain choice is a wheel size of<br />

52 to 60 mm, with 95A to 100A hardness, which gives a balance between speed<br />

and weight. In general 95A is an average wheel hardness for street skateboarding.<br />

BearinGS<br />

analyse<br />

the action<br />

A skateboard wheel is mounted on its axle by means of two bearings. These bearings are usually<br />

the standard 608 size and are made from steel, with a bore of 8 mm, an outer diameter of 22 mm<br />

and a width of 7 mm. Bearings enable the wheels to rotate freely at high speed and will have to be<br />

replaced occasionally. Do not skate in wet conditions, as this will ruin bearings.<br />

The ABEC scale for bearings:<br />

This is an American 1 – 9 scale for rating the accuracy of tolerance of bearings. (It does not measure<br />

how well a bearing will handle side-to-side loads, which can be severe with skateboard movement.)<br />

ABEC 3 applies to most inexpensive complete skateboards<br />

ABEC 5 is the norm for recreational skateboarding<br />

ABEC 7 bearings are very fast and smooth<br />

ABEC 9 bearings are extremely highly spec’d and are used in the most advanced boards<br />

optional coMponentS<br />

• risers increase the space between truck and deck, permitting the truck to twist further without causing the wheel<br />

to ‘bite’ the deck and stop turning.<br />

• rails or ribs are strips of plastic or metal affixed under the deck along its edges. Although rarely used today,<br />

they can provide the experienced skater with extra grip for grabs, they can enhance sliding, plus they can<br />

protect the graphics of the deck’s underside.<br />

• Wedges can be used to alter a truck’s turning characteristics.<br />

• Slip tape or ever-slick is a clear, self-adhesive plastic stuck to the deck’s underside for protection and easier sliding.<br />

E&OE


inline sKaTes components<br />

boot • frame/chassis • wheels • bearings • brakes<br />

Boot<br />

Material: Hard shell vs soft shell. Hard shell boots are not manufactured<br />

often these days, although they offered good support for large skaters<br />

and those with weak ankles. Soft boots are immediately comfortable<br />

and help to encourage starter skaters.<br />

liner: Before buying skates, check the liner by removing it and fitting<br />

it to your foot. It must be comfortable and secure. Then replace it<br />

and try on the whole boot. Superior liners are moisture-absorbent.<br />

All liners are washable.<br />

Foot bed: This is removable and washable and is placed inside the liner to cradle the foot.<br />

You can replace the foot bed with an orthotic which has been custom-made for you, or another support<br />

bought in-store.<br />

laces: These are minutely adjustable, but they can loosen as you skate.<br />

Buckles: These are permanently attached to the skate and offer good, consistent support.<br />

Adjust them until they are right for you and they will be ready for a quick start, every time.<br />

laces plus buckles: These are found in some recreational and fitness skates, with the buckle (or a Velcro strap)<br />

surrounding the ankle area and the laces over the top of the foot.<br />

FraMe or chaSSiS<br />

Material:<br />

Polypropylene: Many recreational skates have frames<br />

made of this versatile thermoplastic.<br />

Polyurethane is also used.<br />

Aluminium: This is more expensive and sturdier<br />

than polypropylene.<br />

Other metals: Magnesium and titanium alloys are also used.<br />

Other materials: Nylon/fibreglass and carbon.<br />

Lighter materials reduce fatigue. Aluminium is lighter than plastic and carbon is even lighter.<br />

important attributes:<br />

The frame must be light, but strong and rigid. If a frame is too flexible, the energy of the stroke is dissipated<br />

and much of it is wasted. In addition, the frame must be attached securely to the boot and its alignment must<br />

be correct so that the wheels track properly. Certain frames allow for ‘rockering’, i.e. adjusting the two middle<br />

wheels downward to facilitate quick turns and pivots. Some frames also allow you to adjust to larger wheels<br />

as your skill increases.<br />

brake<br />

wheels frame<br />

WheelS<br />

Diameter size: This depends on skating style. Generally, the greater<br />

the diameter, the faster the wheel can move. However, smaller wheels<br />

provide faster acceleration and manoeuvrability, plus the stability<br />

of a lower centre of gravity.<br />

44 – 59 mm for aggressive skating<br />

68 – 72 mm for artistic inline skating<br />

47 – 80 mm for roller hockey skating<br />

72 – 80 mm for freestyle slalom skating and downhill skating<br />

72 – 90 mm for general recreational skating<br />

84 – 110 mm for speed skating<br />

Core: This varies from solid (i.e. no spokes) for aggressive wheels,<br />

to extremely light spoke designs for racing wheels.<br />

Profile: This means the shape of the wheel, which determines how much the wheel makes<br />

contact with the ground. Elliptical profiles (taller, thinner, more tapered) cause less friction<br />

and thus provide a faster ride. More rounded shapes are more stable and grip better, which<br />

is good for hockey. Recreational wheels are of average height, with an average taper.<br />

Number: Downhill skates normally have five or six wheels for stability at high speed.<br />

Recreational skates usually have four wheels.<br />

Material: Almost all are made from polyurethane, a durable plastic.<br />

Degree of hardness: This is measured by a Durometer and is mostly expressed as somewhere on the ‘A-scale’ which<br />

extends from 70 - 100. The higher the A-scale number, the harder the wheel. Harder wheels go faster and are more<br />

durable, but a softer wheel material might be one of the factors contributing to a wheel’s grip. Most recreational skate<br />

wheels vary from 78A to 82A. Wheels for aggressive skating may go up into the 90As.<br />

BearinGS<br />

The ABEC scale for bearings:<br />

This is an American 1 – 9 scale for rating the accuracy of tolerance of bearings.<br />

ABEC 5 is the norm for recreational skating<br />

ABEC 7 bearings are very fast and smooth<br />

ABEC 9 bearings are extremely highly spec’d<br />

Rollerblade now use their own rating system, from SG-1 to SG-9.<br />

Each wheel has two bearings, which fit into openings moulded into each side<br />

of the wheel hub, where a flange holds them the correct distance apart.<br />

BrakeS<br />

enhance<br />

the experience<br />

profile core<br />

Unlike the front brake of roller skates, the hard rubber brake on inline skates is attached<br />

to the heel of the frame. The skater brakes by lifting the toe of the skate, and special lessons<br />

in braking are required. A feature called ABT (Advanced Braking Technology) can be useful,<br />

but tends to wear the brake pad down. (Most aggressive inline skates and racing skates have no heel brake.)<br />

diameter<br />

E&OE


KicK scOOTer components<br />

deck • head tube • headset • grip tape • fork • handlebars • wheels • bearings • brakes • folding action<br />

Deck<br />

Material: Most of the modern, urban kick scooters have decks made from lightweight<br />

aluminium or steel. Quality scooters are made from 100% aircraft-grade<br />

aluminium. Some do, however, have wood laminate or wood-and-fibreglass<br />

laminate decks. A urethane cushion might be placed between the deck and the frame for shock-absorption.<br />

Size: Decks range in length between about 16 and 23 inches (40 and 58 cm) and the most common widths are<br />

4½” and 4” (11,5 and 10 cm). Wider decks suit bigger riders with bigger feet, while narrower decks are easier<br />

to handle for the smaller or inexperienced rider. Cruiser kick scooters are wider, offering more foot space and a<br />

smooth ride. Some children’s scooters have wider decks for stability.<br />

construction: Scooters used for tricks can have decks that are reinforced, thicker and double-welded to the<br />

down-tube. All scooters are rated to carry up to certain maximum weights of rider.<br />

heaD tuBe<br />

This is the front part of the deck where the fork and bars are mounted. Head tubes are available in several<br />

angles to provide a choice of feel when riding.<br />

heaDSet<br />

This component is fitted into the head tube and is designed to keep the fork on the scooter.<br />

It can be threaded or threadless and the kind of headset you choose will determine the<br />

kind of fork you can ride.<br />

Grip tape<br />

This rough material must be applied, just as on a skateboard, to help your feet grip the deck.<br />

Fork<br />

The fork fits into the head tube. Forks can be threaded or threadless. Aluminium forks are usually<br />

fork<br />

threadless, while steel forks are usually threadless but can be threaded. The handlebar piece is<br />

fitted into the fork and kept in place with a collar clamp, which must be strong and solid, particularly<br />

for tricks. Double, triple and quadruple clamps are available. The fork is compatible with the wheel size.<br />

hanDleBarS<br />

pieces: One-piece and three-piece bars are available. One-piece bars are usually made<br />

from 4130 chromoly steel, but aluminium bars are beginning to appear.<br />

headset<br />

height adjustment: Many handlebars are adjustable from 22 up to 36 inches (56 to 91 cm) and can be moved<br />

by means of a quick-release or push pin. Some scooters offer a choice of fixed-height (and width) handlebars.<br />

The ideal height for handlebars is at the level of the rider’s navel.<br />

Steering: Most scooters have T-style handlebars which you turn to steer the scooter. Some scooters have fixed<br />

handlebars which only serve to balance the rider, who has to lean in order to turn the scooter. Others have ballstyle<br />

handlebars with a simple rubber ball-grip, serving to balance the rider who rides the scooter surfer-style,<br />

leaning side-to-side to turn.<br />

Grips: These are usually soft rubber. Some have extra-thick foam padding, while other, high-end trick scooters<br />

have low-profile grips to enhance mobility.<br />

clamp<br />

bar<br />

head tube<br />

grip<br />

clamp<br />

folding mechanism<br />

deck<br />

WheelS<br />

Size: Diameters start at about 110 mm and<br />

go up to just over 200 mm, depending on<br />

the size and design of the scooter.<br />

Smaller wheels go reasonably fast and smoothly and are<br />

more suitable for tricks. Larger wheels will cope with uneven<br />

pavements more easily, but are not recommended for tricks.<br />

Material: Smaller (standard) wheels are usually made of<br />

solid polyurethane with a small hub. Larger wheels generally<br />

have a spoked metal construction covered by a thin, polyurethane tyre.<br />

BearinGS<br />

Each wheel has two bearings and a bearer spacer in the middle to prevent<br />

damage from over-tightening.<br />

Replacement bearings are available in sets of four. The American ABEC scale for<br />

bearings applies, with higher ratings providing faster rolling with less friction.<br />

ABEC 5 is the norm for many kick scooters<br />

ABEC 7 bearings are used in some highly spec’d trick scooters<br />

BrakeS<br />

The most common is a very simple fender brake.<br />

The rider steps on the rear fender which is mounted on a hinged spring,<br />

then the fender presses against the wheel to stop it.<br />

grip tape<br />

FolDinG action<br />

brake<br />

Most scooters fold up quickly and easily. Simply unlock the joint<br />

release lever, fold the scooter and re-lock the mechanism to hold<br />

the scooter in the folded position. Compact folded size and light<br />

weight make these scooters extremely portable.<br />

Pro scooters used for tricks are typically not foldable.<br />

three-WheeleD DeSiGn<br />

wheel with bearings<br />

smooth<br />

your ride<br />

These scooters are suitable for younger children, as they are more stable,<br />

closer to the ground and have an easy stick steering mechanism.<br />

E&OE

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