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Walks<br />

Eight Cultural and<br />

Historical Journeys


Asia’s world city<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Asia’s world city, offers<br />

visitors the opportunity to experience a<br />

vibrant living culture featuring a unique<br />

fusion where ‘east-meets-west’. Instilled<br />

with an exciting duality of a modern<br />

city’s vitality enhanced by a traditional<br />

society’s historical richness and colour,<br />

this incredible destination is sure to amaze any visitor.<br />

Both dynamic and cosmopolitan, this bustling modern city features<br />

world-class infrastructure with unrivalled levels of quality tourism service.<br />

The city has everything from fantastic shopping and a delightful diversity<br />

of dining tastes to a wonderful world of colourful festivals and signature<br />

attractions. Compact and easy to navigate, it is also blessed with<br />

abundant natural beauty, where visitors can discover stunning mountain<br />

views, idyllic islands and serene beaches.<br />

This comprehensive guide features eight<br />

fascinating themed walks allowing you to<br />

experience the busy downtown streets and<br />

the flamboyant colours, sounds and aromas<br />

of local markets. You can also find serenity<br />

in a centuries-old temple, get immersed in<br />

a bygone era and then step out into this<br />

dynamic and dazzling 21 st century city to<br />

savour the rich contrast of the ancient and the modern.<br />

Captivating and charismatic, as well as fun and entertaining, <strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong> offers a multitude of fantastic experiences all within one trip. Every<br />

moment, you are guaranteed a world of different experiences that is sure<br />

to enliven your senses.<br />

1


Get Footloose in<br />

HONG KONG'S Bustling City,<br />

Rich Past and Serene Islands.<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Central & Western District –<br />

Travel Through Time<br />

Garden Road Leisure Walk –<br />

A Century of Architecture<br />

Shau Kei Wan –<br />

Evolvement of a Fishing Village<br />

4<br />

12<br />

20<br />

Eight<br />

Themed<br />

Walks<br />

Kowloon<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui –<br />

Cornucopia of Delights<br />

Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok –<br />

Markets for Leisure and Pleasure<br />

26<br />

3644<br />

Wong Tai Sin & Kowloon City –<br />

A Popular Temple & A City Transformed<br />

DISCOVER HONG KONG AR walks app series<br />

Enjoy urban distractions, rustic retreats,<br />

cultural discoveries, historical insights and more in<br />

three apps designed with self-guided tours, offline maps,<br />

augmented reality (AR) and other features to help<br />

independent travellers journey deep into the heart of Asia’s world city.<br />

<strong>Download</strong> them for<br />

<strong>Discover</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> •<br />

City Walks<br />

Experience a vibrant<br />

living culture and<br />

East-meets-West<br />

diversity on four<br />

self-guided walks into<br />

the nooks and crannies<br />

of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>.<br />

NEW<br />

FREE<br />

<strong>Discover</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> •<br />

Island Walks<br />

Explore <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s<br />

scenic and culturally-rich<br />

Outlying Islands and<br />

enjoy personalisation<br />

features to create your<br />

own walks and share<br />

your experiences.<br />

now!<br />

<strong>Discover</strong> <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> •<br />

Heritage Walks<br />

Powerful clans, walled<br />

villages, a fishing<br />

community and a<br />

lawless enclave –<br />

four self-guided walks<br />

through <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s<br />

colourful history.<br />

New Territories<br />

Yuen Long –<br />

First Heritage Trail in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Fanling –<br />

Walled Village<br />

62<br />

Acknowledgements<br />

- Dr Patrick Hase<br />

- Dr Joseph Ting<br />

- Antiquities and Monuments Office<br />

- Chinese Temples Committee<br />

- Leisure and Cultural Services Department<br />

- Sik Sik Yuen Wong<br />

- Tai Sin Temple<br />

50<br />

<strong>Download</strong> the following two apps to get the content of this book on<br />

your phone, (available for Android and iPhone).<br />

The above apps developed by the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board are designed for offline use.<br />

Please remember TO TURN OFF DATA ROAMING to avoid unnecessary charges.<br />

<strong>Discover</strong><strong>Hong</strong><strong>Kong</strong>.com<br />

3


Western Market<br />

Central &<br />

Western District<br />

中 西 區<br />

MTR Sheung Wan Station Exit B, turn right, walk about three minutes.<br />

1. Western Market & Sheung Wan Fong<br />

西 港 城 及 上 環 坊<br />

The Western Market, an Edwardian-style building originally housing the<br />

waterfront Harbour Office when built in 1906, later became a food<br />

market before closing in 1988. Two years later, it was declared a<br />

historical monument, renovated and then re-opened in 1991 with themed<br />

shops. Next to it is a compass-like piazza named Sheung Wan Fong – a<br />

convenient spot from which to set off on your voyage of discovery of the<br />

surrounding Sheung Wan area packed with its traditional trades and<br />

unique assortment of shops. The Western Market is open daily 10am to<br />

midnight. Enquiries +852 6029 2675.<br />

Walk along Morrison Street, turn right into Wing Lok Street.<br />

TRAVEL THROUGH TIME<br />

CENTRAL & WESTERN<br />

DISTRICT<br />

2. Ginseng and Bird’s Nest Street* / Dried Seafood Street* /<br />

Herbal Medicine Street*<br />

【 參 茸 燕 窩 街 】* / 【 海 味 街 】* / 【 藥 材 街 】*<br />

Catch intriguing glimpses of daily life in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> with a stroll<br />

through time in the Central & Western District. Starting in the Western<br />

area, you’ll discover a world of wonder where the hustle and bustle<br />

of this modern city mingle with the colourful age-old traditions of<br />

yesterday. Here, among the dried seafood and Chinese herb shops,<br />

you’ll see traditions of the past that remain vibrant today. As you<br />

continue along the walk, you’ll experience time through the ages<br />

ending in Central, the financial heart of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, full of energy<br />

and dynamism. Its modern towers of steel and glass symbolise <strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong>’s success.<br />

Note: Sections of this tour involve walks up steep hills which could be strenuous for some<br />

people.<br />

Wing Lok Street and Bonham Strand West are lined with specialty shops<br />

selling ginseng and bird’s nest. Previously known as Nam Pak <strong>Hong</strong><br />

after the Nam Pak <strong>Hong</strong> Chamber of Commerce (North-South Chamber<br />

of Commerce) located there.<br />

At the end of Wing Lok Street, turn left into Des Voeux Road West.<br />

<strong>Discover</strong> the surprising varieties of exotic dried seafood available on<br />

this street. You’ll find rare and expensive items gathered from around<br />

the world.<br />

Walk along Des Voeux Road West, turn left into Ko Shing Street. This<br />

is the wholesale centre of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s thriving herbal medicine trade.<br />

It is renowned for its wide selection of herbal medicine and shops with<br />

experienced staff.<br />

4 Upper: The past lives on in Central & Western District.<br />

Central & Western District<br />

*Most shops are closed on Sundays & public holidays.<br />

5


Did you know…<br />

Possession Street, also known as Shui Hang Hau, is where the British<br />

first landed when they arrived in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> in 1841 and called the<br />

spot Possession Cape. As the population grew in this area, a road<br />

was built and was named Possession Street.<br />

Did you know…<br />

If you want to know what the future holds, you can shake fortune<br />

sticks out of a bamboo cylinder available in the temple. Read an<br />

English translation of the old sayings inscribed on the sticks in the<br />

book ‘Man Mo Temple’, on sale in the temple.<br />

Walk back to Des Voeux Road West, turn right into Bonham Strand<br />

West. Then continue along Bonham Strand West, turn right into<br />

Possession Street, walk up the sloping street and turn left into<br />

Hollywood Road. Turn left at Lok Ku Road, then right onto Upper<br />

Lascar Row.<br />

Continue walking east along Hollywood Road to the Central – Mid-<br />

Levels Escalator, take the escalator up to Staunton Street and the SoHo<br />

area.<br />

3. Hollywood Road (Antiques Street) /<br />

Upper Lascar Row (Cat Street)<br />

荷 李 活 道 / 摩 羅 上 街 【 古 董 街 】<br />

Hollywood Road which links Sheung<br />

Wan to Central – and the nearby Upper<br />

Lascar Row often referred to as “Cat<br />

Street” – are famous for their curio and<br />

antiques shops. They can help you<br />

arrange getting large items back home.<br />

Walk back uphill to Hollywood Road, turn left and walk to Man Mo<br />

Temple.<br />

4. Man Mo Temple<br />

文 武 廟<br />

Accent your living room with a Chinese antique.<br />

Reach new heights on the Central – Mid-Levels Escalator.<br />

Did you know…<br />

At 800-metres long, Central – Mid-Levels Escalator is the world’s<br />

longest covered escalator. It links Des Voeux Road Central near<br />

the harbour to Conduit Road in the Mid-Levels. The escalator is a<br />

convenient way to see the bustling city hillside which contains great<br />

restaurants and shops. Travelling the entire length takes about 20<br />

minutes. The escalator runs one-way downhill from 6am to 10am,<br />

and then uphill from 10am to midnight. The escalator is a transit link<br />

for residents of the Mid-Levels. It is best to use it after 9am when the<br />

morning rush hour is over. Please be careful when the escalator is<br />

wet.<br />

One of the first traditional-style temples built<br />

during the colonial era, Man Mo Temple<br />

pays homage to the Taoist gods of literature<br />

(‘Man’) and war (‘Mo’). There is also a statue of<br />

Coils of incense within the temple create<br />

a distinctive sensory experience.<br />

Pau Kung, the god of justice, and another of Shing Wong, the god of the<br />

city. The plaques near the entrance give an interesting perspective on the<br />

history of the temple and its gods. The temple’s historical relics include a<br />

bronze bell dated 1847 and imperial sedan chairs made in 1862. It was<br />

declared a monument in 2010. Open daily 8am to 6pm. Enquiries +852<br />

2540 0350. (Free admission)<br />

5. SoHo<br />

荷 南 美 食 區<br />

This lively dining district takes its name<br />

from its location, South of Hollywood<br />

Road. SoHo consists of Shelley Street,<br />

Elgin Street, Peel Street, Staunton<br />

Street, and Old Bailey Street. Within<br />

this area you will find coffee shops, Relax with a drink in SoHo.<br />

funky bars and also a variety of chic restaurants offering a huge range<br />

of international cuisine, including Nepalese, Italian, Dutch, Spanish,<br />

Mexican, Chinese and East-West fusion.<br />

6<br />

Central & Western District<br />

7


Walk down the steps beside the escalator and turn right onto<br />

Hollywood Road, which will merge into Wyndham Street. Follow<br />

the signs into Lan Kwai Fong.<br />

6. Lan Kwai Fong<br />

蘭 桂 坊<br />

Walk along Duddell Street, cross Queen’s Road Central and walk into<br />

Ice House Street, turn right at Des Voeux Road Central and walk to the<br />

Old Supreme Court Building.<br />

8. Old Supreme Court Building<br />

舊 最 高 法 院 大 樓<br />

When the lights go<br />

down, the ‘in crowd’<br />

heads for Lan Kwai<br />

Fong, a buzzing<br />

centre of clubs, bars<br />

and restaurants. A<br />

must for night owls<br />

and people-watchers.<br />

The Old Supreme Court<br />

Building was opened 15<br />

January 1912. However,<br />

this two-storey neo-classical<br />

granite structure was<br />

renamed the Legislative<br />

Council Building in 1985 and served as such until 15 July 2011. The building<br />

will be converted into the new offices of the Court of Final Appeal, while<br />

the Legislative Council has been moved to the new Central Government<br />

Complex at Tamar in Admiralty. (Not open to the public).<br />

Walk along Jackson Road to Chater Road and then turn to Man Yiu<br />

Street. Walk to the Central pier 8 along Man Yiu Street for around<br />

10-15 minutes to the Museum.<br />

Walk up D’Aguilar Street, cross Wyndham Street and turn left into<br />

Lower Albert Road past the Fringe Club, and follow the directional signs<br />

to Duddell Street.<br />

9. <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Maritime Museum<br />

香 港 海 事 博 物 館<br />

7. Duddell Street Steps & Gas Lamps<br />

都 爹 利 街 石 階 及 煤 氣 路 燈<br />

These fine wide stone steps<br />

connect Ice House Street with<br />

Duddell Street and Queen’s<br />

Road Central beyond. The<br />

lamps at the head and foot of<br />

the steps, built between 1875<br />

and 1889, are the only four gas lamps<br />

remaining in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> and are turned on<br />

daily at 6pm.<br />

The <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Maritime Museum,<br />

located at Central<br />

Ferry Pier 8, tells<br />

the rich story of the<br />

connection between<br />

the people of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> and the sea through exhibits, interactive displays,<br />

presentations and tours. With more than 2,000 years of seafaring history,<br />

there is something for everyone.<br />

The Museum opens from 9:30am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday and 10am<br />

to 7pm on weekends and public holidays. Enquiries +852 3713 2500.<br />

8 Central & Western District<br />

9


Central &<br />

Western<br />

District<br />

Walking Map


Garden Road<br />

Leisure Walk<br />

花 園 道 漫 遊<br />

MTR Admiralty Station Exit<br />

C1 and follow signs to ‘<strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong> Park / Island Shangri-La<br />

Hotel’. The park is opposite to<br />

the upper mall entrance.<br />

1. Flagstaff House (Museum of Tea Ware)<br />

舊 三 軍 司 令 官 邸 ( 茶 具 文 物 館 )<br />

A CENTURY OF ARCHITECTURE<br />

GARDEN ROAD LEISURE WALK<br />

The Central district is at the heart of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s development from<br />

the 19 th century to modern day and is where the headquarters of<br />

the government and the city’s financial centre are located. Garden<br />

Road abounds in culturally significant buildings steeped in <strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong>’s rich heritage, also located here are many modern buildings<br />

designed by some of the world’s top architects.<br />

Follow this walk and you’ll experience <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s colonial past<br />

coming to life, with architecture dating back more than 150 years.<br />

You will see the centre of the current administration, including the<br />

residence of the Chief Executive plus iconic buildings that house<br />

some of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s leading commercial and financial giants.<br />

You can travel along <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s historic timeline of more than a<br />

hundred years, and enjoy the rich culture on offer, at your own pace.<br />

Flagstaff House in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Park, Central, is the oldest existing<br />

Western building in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. Built in 1846, it was formerly known as<br />

Headquarters House. The building was renamed Flagstaff House around<br />

1932, and remained the office and residence of the Commander of the<br />

British Forces until 1978. In 1984, it was converted into the Museum<br />

of Tea Ware, displaying tea ware and related materials from a variety<br />

of periods. Open 10am to 6pm and closed on Tuesdays except public<br />

holidays. Enquiries +852 2869 0690. (Free admission)<br />

Follow the directional signs inside the park to Rawlinson House (Park<br />

Management Office and Cotton Tree Drive Marriage Registry).<br />

2. Rawlinson House (Park Management Office and Cotton<br />

Tree Drive Marriage Registry)<br />

羅 連 信 樓 ( 香 港 公 園 辦 事 處 及 紅 棉 路 婚 姻 登 記 處 )<br />

Rawlinson House was built<br />

in the early 20 th century as<br />

the residence of the Deputy<br />

Commander of the British Forces<br />

in the old Victoria Barracks. It<br />

was preserved and listed as a<br />

Grade 1 Historic Building and is<br />

now used as the Cotton Tree Drive<br />

Marriage Registry and the Park<br />

Management Office.<br />

12 Upper: Modern architecture contracts with beautiful garden scenes in Central.<br />

Garden Road Leisure Walk<br />

13


Walk up along Cotton Tree Drive. Turn<br />

right to the Lower Peak Tram Terminus<br />

when you pass the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Squash<br />

Centre.<br />

3. Peak Tram 山 頂 纜 車<br />

Cross Garden Road via the footbridge to get to the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Zoological & Botanical Gardens.<br />

6. <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Zoological & Botanical Gardens 香 港 動 植 物 公 園<br />

The Peak Tram has been in operation since 1888 taking people up<br />

an incline so steep that buildings appear like they are leaning at a<br />

45-degree angle! Find out more at the Peak Tram Historical Gallery<br />

located at Lower Peak Tram Terminus. Open daily 7am to midnight.<br />

Enquiries +852 2522 0922.<br />

Walk along Garden Road to the Helena May Building.<br />

4. The Helena May Building<br />

梅 夫 人 婦 女 會 大 樓<br />

The Helena May Building was built in 1914, officially<br />

opened in 1916, and was used as a hostel for<br />

women. During the Second World War, the building<br />

was occupied by Japanese troops. It was reopened<br />

in 1947. Enquiries +852 2522 6766. (The building<br />

is only open to the public on special occasions. Guided tours in English<br />

and Cantonese are available on certain Saturday mornings. Advance<br />

registration is required. Call or email reception@helenamay.com.)<br />

Located opposite to the Government House, construction of these beautiful<br />

gardens started in 1860 and<br />

was fully completed in 1871.<br />

They are open every day<br />

and are a popular place to<br />

join locals as they perform<br />

their early morning tai chi<br />

exercises. There are more<br />

than 1,000 plant species<br />

in the garden and a zoo with various species of birds, mammals and<br />

reptiles. The Green House/Education and Exhibition Centre open daily<br />

from 9am to 4:30pm. Enquiries +852 2530 0154. (Free admission)<br />

Cross Upper Albert Road to Government House.<br />

7. Government House<br />

香 港 禮 賓 府<br />

Did you know…<br />

St Joseph’s College was founded in 1875, and is a government<br />

subsidised Catholic boys’ school. It had been relocated several times,<br />

and moved to its present location in 1918.<br />

St Joseph’s Church is located next to the Helena May Building.<br />

5. St Joseph’s Church 聖 約 瑟 堂<br />

St Joseph’s Church, built<br />

in 1871, has survived the<br />

onslaughts of the Second World<br />

War plus numerous typhoons.<br />

The church was demolished and rebuilt in the<br />

mid 20 th century. Open daily 7am to 7pm. Enquiries +852 2522 3992.<br />

(Free admission)<br />

Government House was formerly the<br />

office and residence of Governors<br />

of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. Construction works<br />

started in 1851 and took four years<br />

to complete. It was originally built in the Georgian style. During the<br />

Japanese occupation, a dominant central tower was constructed to<br />

link the two original buildings; the roofs were also modified to add in<br />

more Japanese flavour, thus diminishing the strong European style of the<br />

mansion. Government House is now the residence and office of the Chief<br />

Executive of the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Special Administrative Region. (Not open to<br />

the public except on special occasions. Please contact the Government<br />

House enquiries number at +852 2530 2003)<br />

14<br />

Garden Road Leisure Walk 15


16<br />

Garden Road Leisure Walk 17


Garden Road<br />

Walking<br />

Map


Shau Kei Wan<br />

筲 箕 灣<br />

MTR Shau Kei Wan Station Exit C,<br />

walk along Mong Lung Street and<br />

turn left into Kam Wa Street to tram<br />

terminus. Shing Wong Temple is<br />

adjacent to it. Or take tram to the<br />

Shau Kei Wan Terminus and Shing<br />

Wong Temple is right nearby.<br />

1. Shing Wong Temple 城 隍 廟<br />

The temple was originally called Fook Tak Tsz. It was<br />

built in 1877 and expanded in 1974. It is quite popular with local<br />

residents, being situated very near the Shau Kei Wan Tram Terminus.<br />

Open daily 8am to 5pm. Enquiries +852 3718 6888 (Head<br />

Office); +852 2569 2837 (Shing Wong Temple). (Free admission)<br />

Did you know…<br />

Shau Kei Wan Tram Terminus<br />

Located at the junction of Shau Kei Wan Main Street East and Kam<br />

Wa Street, this is the eastern end of the line built in 1904 that runs to<br />

Kennedy Town in the west.<br />

Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East to Miu Tung Street, The Tin<br />

Hau Temple is on your right.<br />

2. Tin Hau Tample 天 后 廟<br />

EVOLVEMENT OF A FISHING<br />

VILLAGE<br />

SHAU KEI WAN<br />

In olden times, Shau Kei Wan (Shau Kei means pail and Wan means<br />

bay) provided a haven for ships and served as a typhoon shelter<br />

for fishermen. Down through the years, the area became a centre<br />

for shipbuilding and a number of temples dedicated to popular<br />

fisherfolk deities such as Tin Hau and Tam Kung sprang up. You can<br />

still visit them today and they provide great colour at festival time.<br />

This small Tin Hau Temple<br />

dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea dates<br />

back to 1873. You’ll find a collection of<br />

well preserved murals, woodcarvings and<br />

Shek Wan pottery in the temple. Open daily 8am to 5pm. Enquiries<br />

+852 3718 6888 (Head Office); +852 2569 1264 (Tin Hau Temple).<br />

(Free admission)<br />

Did you know…<br />

Shau Kei Wan Main Street East<br />

This street was originally the waterfront. In the 1860s, to crack down on<br />

pirates hiding here, the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Government decided to clean up the<br />

area by building houses and stores on the two sides of the road.<br />

While the old houses have been replaced by modern high-rises, there<br />

are still a few old restaurants and stores on the street.<br />

20 Upper: A temple dedicated to local fishermen’s deity Tam Kung.<br />

Shau Kei Wan<br />

21


Walk along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East, turn right to A Kung Ngam<br />

Village Road and proceed along Tung Wong Road to reach Yuk Wong<br />

Temple.<br />

3. Yuk Wong Temple 玉 皇 寶 殿<br />

This temple was originally a shrine<br />

built in the mid-19 th century by people<br />

from Mainland China who worked in<br />

a nearby stone quarry. In the early<br />

1900s, the shrine was expanded<br />

into a small temple. Open daily 8am<br />

to 5pm. Enquiries +852 3718 6888<br />

(Head Office); +852 2967 9605<br />

(Yuk Wong Temple). (Free admission)<br />

Walk back along the Tam Kung Temple Road, and follow the directional<br />

signs to Tam Kung Temple.<br />

5. Tam Kung Temple<br />

譚 公 仙 聖 廟<br />

One of the few deities known only to <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, Tam Kung is also<br />

a patron of fishermen. This temple is over 100 years old and was<br />

renovated in 2002, with the original design being preserved. Besides<br />

the statue of Tam Kung, there is a small wooden junk and a dragon boat<br />

inside the temple. Open daily 8am to 5pm. Enquiries +852 2569 2559.<br />

(Free admission)<br />

Follow the directional signs, cross Tung Hei Road. Turn right and you<br />

will see the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Museum of Coastal Defence in front of you.<br />

4. <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Museum of Coastal Defence<br />

香 港 海 防 博 物 館<br />

The Lei Yue Mun Fort built<br />

by the British in 1887<br />

to defend <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

against invasion by sea<br />

is home to an intriguing<br />

exhibition of military<br />

memorabilia covering the<br />

600 years from the Ming<br />

and Qing periods. It sits<br />

perched on the heights<br />

overlooking the narrow<br />

strip of water at Lei Yue Mun, now famous for its seafood restaurants.<br />

The 34,200-square-metre Museum of Coastal Defence features a<br />

Reception Area, Redoubt and Historical Trail that paint a vivid picture<br />

of Britain’s readiness to defend <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> against any aggressors.<br />

Open daily (March – September) 10am to 6pm; (October – February)<br />

10am to 5pm. Closed on Thursdays (except public holidays) and during<br />

the first two days of Chinese New Year. Enquiries +852 2569 1500.<br />

(Free on Wednesdays)<br />

Did you know…<br />

Birthday of Tam Kung<br />

The birthday of Tam Kung falls on the 8 th day of the 4 th Lunar month.<br />

For many years, locals held an annual procession to commemorate<br />

the time when many people were saved from a plague with all the<br />

colour and pageantry of its origins.<br />

22<br />

Shau Kei Wan 23


Shau Kei Wan<br />

Walking<br />

Map


Tsim Sha Tsui<br />

尖 沙 咀<br />

MTR Jordan Station Exit<br />

D, turn left, walk along<br />

Nathan Road and turn left<br />

into Hillwood Road.<br />

1. Hillwood Soho<br />

山 林 道 蘇 豪 區<br />

Relax in a cosy bar.<br />

Hillwood Soho in Tsim Sha Tsui is a hangout favoured by locals, with<br />

a fun collection of bars and a selection of restaurants featuring Asian<br />

cuisine.<br />

Walk down the steps at the end of Hillwood Road, turn right and walk<br />

along Austin Avenue and Kimberley Road, stay on the right and then<br />

turn right into Observatory Road. At Knutsford Terrace, turn left.<br />

2. Knutsford Terrace / Knutsford Steps<br />

諾 士 佛 台 / 諾 士 佛 階<br />

Befitting an international eating mecca, this district is packed with people<br />

savouring the culinary delights that <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> has to offer.<br />

CORNUCOPIA OF DELIGHTS<br />

TSIM SHA TSUI<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui is a tourist’s dream come true, offering everything<br />

visitors need for a trip of a lifetime. It is home to a variety of chic<br />

restaurants offering a huge range of international cuisines, plenty<br />

of large modern shopping malls, historic buildings, fascinating<br />

museums and the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Cultural Centre. The scenic waterfront<br />

promenade offers some of the best views of Victoria Harbour and the<br />

mesmerising <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> skyline.<br />

Alfresco dining at Knutsford Terrace and Knutsford Steps.<br />

26 Upper: The bright lights along Salisbury Road<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui<br />

27


Walk along Knutsford Terrace and turn left and then right along<br />

Kimberley Road. Walk to the end of the street and turn right.<br />

3. Former Kowloon British School<br />

(Antiquities and Monuments Office)<br />

前 九 龍 英 童 學 校 ( 古 物 古 蹟 辦 事 處 )<br />

This architectural gem opened<br />

in 1902 is the oldest surviving<br />

school building constructed<br />

for foreign residents of <strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong>. The building is a unique<br />

Victorian structure adapted to<br />

local climate conditions with<br />

wide verandas, high ceilings<br />

and a pitched roof. Today<br />

it houses the Antiquities and<br />

Monuments Office. Guided tour in Cantonese is available on every<br />

Friday afternoon (except public holidays). Otherwise, building is not<br />

open to the public. Enquiries +852 2208 4407.<br />

St Andrew’s Church stands next to the Former Kowloon British School.<br />

Find international brands that appeal.<br />

4. St Andrew’s Church<br />

聖 安 德 烈 堂<br />

This Anglican church has had a strong evangelical tradition for the past<br />

100 years. Early worshippers would arrive by rickshaws, cabs and<br />

sedan chairs! Accounts of the time reported that, ‘It was a great occasion<br />

for many Christians<br />

in Kowloon and their<br />

friends in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>.’<br />

Open daily 7:30am<br />

to 10:30pm. Enquiries<br />

+852 2367 1478.<br />

(Free admission)<br />

28<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui 29


Leave Kowloon Park by the same way you entered. Walk along<br />

Nathan Road towards the waterfront. Enter at MTR East Tsim Sha Tsui<br />

Station Exit L3, go through the pedestrian tunnel to Exit J, and follow<br />

the directional signs to the Avenue of Stars.<br />

7. Avenue of Stars<br />

星 光 大 道<br />

At Asia’s first Avenue<br />

of Stars, you can see<br />

plaques, hand prints<br />

and statues honouring<br />

celebrities from the<br />

silver screen, and those<br />

Find your favourite <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> star.<br />

behind the camera.<br />

There is also bronze statue of the legendary kung fu action star Bruce<br />

Lee. Find out all you need to know about the 100-year development of<br />

this Hollywood of Asia and enjoy the star-studded harbour views.<br />

Did you know…<br />

You can enjoy A Symphony of Lights along the Avenue of Stars<br />

every night at 8pm. This spectacular multimedia show, named<br />

the world’s largest permanent light and sound show by Guinness<br />

World Records, combines lights and narration while featuring more<br />

than 40 buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour. The facades<br />

of buildings are decked out in lights that, at the flick of a switch,<br />

glow in a myriad of colours depicting <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s dynamic pulse.<br />

The Tsim Sha Tsui is home of many fascinating<br />

museums.<br />

Did you know…<br />

At the Star Ferry Pier you’ll find the HKTB Visitor Centre where you<br />

can get the answer to any question you might have about <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>.<br />

A Symphony of Lights brightens the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> skyline.<br />

30<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui 31


Cross Salisbury Road to Star House and 1881 Heritage is on your right.<br />

10. 1881 Heritage<br />

Located on Canton Road, Tsim<br />

Sha Tsui, 1881 Heritage covers<br />

130,000 square feet. It features a shopping mall, a heritage hotel, and<br />

an exhibition hall. The original site of 1881 Heritage was occupied by<br />

the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Marine Police as headquarters from 1880s to 1996.<br />

Most of the Victorian-style buildings on the site including the Former<br />

Marine Police Headquarters Main Building, Former Stable Block and<br />

the Former Time Ball Tower epitomise the city‘s rich colonial history and<br />

were declared monuments by the Antiquities and Monuments Office in<br />

1994, as proof of their historical significance. To make a reservation for<br />

the free guided tours, please call +852 2926 8000. (Free admission)<br />

Did you know…<br />

Star Ferry<br />

This floating icon, operating between <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

Island and Kowloon since 1898, is a delight<br />

for both children and adults, offering stunning<br />

panoramic views of the surrounding harbour.<br />

Harbour City is on the other side of Canton Road.<br />

11. Harbour City 海 港 城 / Canton Road 廣 東 道 /<br />

Peking Road 北 京 道 (Luxury Brand Streets)【 名 店 街 】<br />

Harbour City is one of the largest shopping<br />

and entertainment centres in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong><br />

with more than 450 shops and restaurants<br />

offering local and international brands.<br />

Open daily 10am to 10pm. Enquiries +852<br />

2118 8666.<br />

Adjacent to Harbour City, you’ll find many leading international brands’<br />

stores along Canton Road and Peking Road. Strolling along the streets,<br />

visitors will enjoy an unrivalled luxury shopping experience.<br />

32<br />

Tsim Sha Tsui 33


Tsim Sha Tsui<br />

Walking<br />

Map


Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok<br />

油 麻 地 及 旺 角<br />

MTR Prince Edward Station Exit C2. Walk along Prince Edward Road<br />

West to Lai Chi Kok Road. Proceed along Lai Chi Kok Road until you<br />

reach Lui Seng Chun.<br />

1. Lui Seng Chun 雷 生 春<br />

Once an old Chinese shophouse or tong lau,<br />

Lui Seng Chun is a Grade 1 historic pre-WWII<br />

building featuring a prewar verandah-type style<br />

of construction. In 2008, <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Baptist<br />

University with financial assistance from the<br />

government revitalized the building transforming it into the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Baptist<br />

University School of Chinese Medicine – Lui Seng Chun. The building includes<br />

a herbal tea shop on the ground floor as well as a display introducing the old<br />

Lui Seng Chun. The remainder of the building is a dedicated to the practice of<br />

traditional Chinese medicine.<br />

MARKETS FOR LEISURE<br />

AND PLEASURE<br />

YAU MA TEI & MONG KOK<br />

For an experience of local Chinese lifestyles, you need to look no<br />

further than Yau Ma Tei and Mong Kok.<br />

The ground floor display areas are open free of charge from 9am to 1pm and<br />

2pm to 8pm from Monday to Saturday, and 9am to 1pm on Sundays. Closed<br />

on public holidays. Free guided tours to other floors are available by registration.<br />

For details, please visit http://scm.hkbu.edu.hk/lsc or call +852 3411 0628.<br />

Walk along Lai Chi Kok Road to MTR Prince Edward Station Exit B1.<br />

Proceed along Prince Edward Road West to Yuen Po Street Bird<br />

Garden. Pass through the garden to the junction of Yuen Po Street<br />

and Flower Market Road. At the end of the road, get on Prince Edward<br />

Road West and walk along Tung Choi Street until you reach the<br />

Goldfish Market.<br />

Walking through this unique section of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is an exciting and<br />

memorable experience any time of the day or night. You’ll love the<br />

ambience and the great deals you can get on souvenirs, clothing,<br />

electronic goods and much more.<br />

36 Upper: The bright lights above the Temple Street Night Market in Yau Ma Tei.<br />

Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok<br />

37


2. Yuen Po Street Bird Garden / Flower Market / Goldfish Market<br />

園 圃 街 雀 鳥 花 園 / 花 墟 / 通 菜 街 ( 北 段 )【 金 魚 街 】<br />

The charming Chinese-style garden on Yuen<br />

Po Street includes some 70 songbird stalls<br />

as well as courtyards and moon gates. Look<br />

and listen, but it’s wise to avoid contact<br />

with the birds.The Bird Market is open daily<br />

7am to 8pm. The colourful Flower Market<br />

sells everything from Dutch tulips to exotic<br />

orchids. Open daily from 7am to 7pm. The<br />

Goldfish Market on nearby Tung Choi Street<br />

sells aquariums, corals and exotic fish. Open<br />

daily 10:30am to 10pm.<br />

A rainbow of colours at the Flower Market<br />

in Mong Kok.<br />

Did you know…<br />

Some Interesting Street Names<br />

You can glimpse the past history of Mong Kok by checking street<br />

signs. The names are a colourful reminder of the bygone days. There<br />

is Yuen Po Street (Vegetable Patch Street), Sai Yeung Choi Street<br />

(Watercress Street) and Yuen Ngai Street. Nothing remains of the old<br />

Mong Kok village but these street names.<br />

Walk along Fa Yuen Street to Mong Kok Road, turn right and cross the<br />

road to reach another section of Tung Choi Street, walk to Argyle Street<br />

and cross the road to reach the starting point of the Ladies’ Market.<br />

4. Ladies’ Market<br />

Ladies’ Market has something for everyone with<br />

bargain-priced items, including men’s and<br />

women’s clothing, knick-knacks, watches and<br />

beauty products. Beside the street stalls are<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>-style cafes that offer local favourites.<br />

Open daily noon to 11:30pm.<br />

Walk through the Ladies’ Market to its end at Dundas Street. Turn right<br />

and walk to the junction of Shanghai Street and Waterloo Road.<br />

5. Yau Ma Tei Theatre<br />

油 麻 地 戲 院<br />

Shopping in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> is exhilarating!<br />

Proceed along Tung Choi Street turning left into Bute Street and then<br />

right into Fa Yuen Street.<br />

3. Fa Yuen Street<br />

Fa Yuen Street is the place to be if you<br />

want to find bargain-priced trendy<br />

fashion and casual wear for men,<br />

women and children. Open daily 11am<br />

to 9:30pm.<br />

Shop till you drop in Fa Yuen Street.<br />

Did you know…<br />

Tung Choi means ‘water spinach’ reflecting the street’s rural origins.<br />

Imagine, this street used to be farmland!<br />

Built in 1930, the Yau Ma Tei Theatre<br />

is the only surviving pre-war cinema<br />

building in the urban area of <strong>Hong</strong><br />

<strong>Kong</strong>. The theatre closed down in<br />

1998 and was listed as a historic<br />

building in the same year.<br />

Now, the building has been reopened as a venue dedicated to Cantonese<br />

opera and features young up-and-coming performers. And, some of the<br />

shows come with English surtitles, so non-Cantonese speakers can also<br />

enjoy the action on stage.<br />

After your visit to the theatre, don’t<br />

miss the attractive red brick building<br />

on the opposite side of Shanghai<br />

Street, which houses the theatre’s<br />

administration offices. Yau Ma Tei<br />

Theatre is open daily 1pm to 8pm.<br />

Enquiries + 852 2264 8108. (Free<br />

admission)<br />

38<br />

Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok 39


Walk along the Shanghai Street.<br />

6. Shanghai Street<br />

This is one of the city’s oldest streets. Look<br />

for shops selling Chinese-style wedding<br />

clothes which feature stunning embroidery.<br />

Once there were many of these shops, now<br />

just a few remain. It’s also a great place to<br />

pick up bargain kitchenware.<br />

Continue along Shanghai Street, turn right at Kansu Street to the Jade<br />

Market.<br />

7. Jade Market / Jade Street<br />

玉 器 市 場 / 玉 器 街<br />

Traditional Chinese wedding clothing<br />

Go back to Shanghai Street, walk north to the junction of Shanghai and<br />

Public Square streets, turn right and walk to the Tin Hau Temple.<br />

8. Tin Hau Temple<br />

天 后 廟<br />

This temple is dedicated to<br />

the Goddess of Seafarers,<br />

Tin Hau. Its location in the<br />

middle of urban Yau Ma<br />

Tei might seem odd, but<br />

long ago, before massive<br />

reclamation, it was on the<br />

harbour front. The water has receded, but people continue to worship<br />

Tin Hau here. Open daily 9am to 5pm. Enquiries +852 2385 0759.<br />

(Free admission)<br />

Walk up Temple Street, across from the temple.<br />

About 400 registered stall-owners sell amulets,<br />

ornaments, necklaces and trinkets made<br />

from the revered green stone. This is a fun<br />

place to browse and to buy an inexpensive<br />

memento of your visit, but think twice about<br />

buying anything costly unless you are a jade<br />

expert. Open daily 10am to 5pm.<br />

A fun place to brouse and hunt for an<br />

inexpensive souvenir.<br />

Nearby is Jade Street, located on Canton Road between Kansu Street<br />

and Jordan Road, where shops are open 10am to 4pm Monday to<br />

Saturday. A giant jade stone weighing three tons has been placed at the<br />

junction of Canton Road and Jordan Road as a landmark.<br />

Did you know…<br />

Many Chinese people believe that jade can protect you from evil<br />

spirits and calm your emotions. That’s why they buy tiny jade<br />

bracelets for their babies.<br />

9. Temple Street Night Market<br />

廟 街 夜 市<br />

This is the famous night market, open daily 4pm to midnight, where you<br />

can find all kinds of bargains, including casual clothes and curios. You’ll<br />

also often see fortune tellers,<br />

Cantonese opera singers and<br />

professional Chinese chess<br />

players. The market becomes<br />

busy after sunset. Two New<br />

Chinese Pai Laus (archway)<br />

have been erected at its<br />

junctions with Jordan Road<br />

and Kansu Street.<br />

When the sun goes down, the bargains come<br />

out at the Temple Street Night Market.<br />

40<br />

Yau Ma Tei & Mong Kok 41


Yau Ma Tei<br />

&<br />

Mong Kok<br />

Walking<br />

Map


Wong Tai Sin & Kowloon City<br />

黃 大 仙 及 九 龍 城<br />

Take MTR to Diamond Hill Station. Leave the station by Exit C2 and<br />

follow the directional signs pointing to the Nan Lian Garden.<br />

1. Nan Lian Garden and Chi Lin Nunnery<br />

南 蓮 園 池 及 志 蓮 淨 苑<br />

A POPULAR TEMPLE &<br />

A CITY TRANSFORMED<br />

WONG TAI SIN & KOWLOON<br />

CITY<br />

Wong Tai Sin District gets its name from the famous Sik Sik Yuen<br />

Wong Tai Sin Temple, the area’s most prominent landmark. Other<br />

places of interest include the Hau Wong Temple dating back to the<br />

Qing dynasty and Nan Lian Garden, which is built in the ancient<br />

Tang dynasty style.<br />

The neighbouring Kowloon City District used to contain the Kowloon<br />

Walled City, which was torn down in 1994 and replaced by a<br />

lovely park of the same name.<br />

Right nearby are a series of 10 streets packed with upwards of 200<br />

local eateries, all serving up the delicious tastes of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>.<br />

This classical landscaped garden<br />

is a scenic oasis in Diamond Hill<br />

spanning some 35,000 square<br />

metres. Styled to mimic a Tang<br />

dynasty (AD 618 - 907) garden,<br />

its Lotus Pond and Blue Pond<br />

are the main attractions, with<br />

other water features, hillocks,<br />

old trees, ornamental rocks and<br />

ancient timber architectures<br />

providing a picturesque complement. Strolling along a one-way circular<br />

route, visitors will see the beautiful landscape unfolding with each step.<br />

Visitors can top off a walk with a bite to eat at Chi Lin Vegetarian in<br />

Long Men Lou, for a genuine and delicious meat-free meal. Walkers<br />

can also appreciate Chinese tea-drinking culture and etiquette at the<br />

Pine Teahouse, Song Cha Xie, inside this lovely green haven. The<br />

garden is open daily from 7am to 9pm. Enquiries +852 3658 9312.<br />

(Free admission)<br />

Next to Nan Lian Garden sits the Chi Lin Nunnery. Established<br />

in 1934 and also renovated to the Tang dynasty style in 1990,<br />

Chi Lin Nunnery is a large temple complex of elegant wooden<br />

architecture, treasured Buddhist relics and soul-soothing lotus ponds.<br />

The complex also includes a series of temple halls, some of which<br />

contain gilded and wooden statues representing divinities such as the<br />

Shakyamuni Buddha and bodhisattvas. The temple hall area opens<br />

daily 9am to 4:30pm. The Lotus Garden opens daily 7am to 7pm.<br />

Enquiries +852 2354 1888. (Free admission)<br />

44 Upper: Thousands of worshippers attend Wong Tai Sin Temple.<br />

Wong Tai Sin & Kowloon City<br />

45


Other points of interest:<br />

The five buildings and structures representing<br />

the ‘Five Geomantic Elements’ of Fung Shui:<br />

the Bronze Pavilion (Metal), the Archives Hall<br />

(Wood), the Fountain (Water), the Yue Heung<br />

Shrine (Fire) and the Earth Wall (Earth). Open<br />

daily from 7am to 5:30pm. (The Tai Shui<br />

Yuenchen Hall is open daily 8am to 5pm).<br />

Enquiries +852 2327 8141. (Free admission<br />

except the Tai Shui Yuenchen Hall)<br />

46<br />

Take MTR to Wong Tai Sin Station, leave the station by Exit B3 and follow<br />

directional signs pointing to the Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple.<br />

2. Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin Temple<br />

(Wong Tai Sin) 嗇 色 園 黃 大 仙 祠 ( 黃 大 仙 )<br />

This is one of the most popular temples in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. According to<br />

legend, Wong Tai Sin is able to ‘make<br />

every wish come true upon request’. The<br />

temple is home to three different religions:<br />

Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism. The<br />

temple containing Wong Tai Sin’s portrait<br />

is where worshippers pray for good fortune<br />

through offerings and divine guidance as<br />

well as through fortune telling.<br />

Take MTR to Lok Fu Station, leave the station by Exit B and follow the<br />

directional signs pointing to the Hau Wong Temple.<br />

3. Hau Wong Temple<br />

侯 王 廟<br />

The Earth Wall<br />

One of the legends surrounding<br />

this temple, built in 1730 during<br />

the Qing dynasty says, it was to<br />

commemorate a Chinese general<br />

who had helped the last Song<br />

Emperor to escape the invading forces to Kowloon. Another legend says it was<br />

dedicated to a local inhabitant who had cured the last emperor of the Southern<br />

Song dynasty. The temple is home to a wealth of cultural artifacts including<br />

groups of reliefs on the walls, Chinese calligraphy and a number of plaques.<br />

Open daily 8am to 5pm. Enquiries +852 3718 6888 (Head Office); +852<br />

2336 0375 (Hau Wong Temple). (Free admission)<br />

Cross the road, walk along Tung Tau Tsuen Road to reach the North<br />

Gate of Kowloon Walled City Park.<br />

4. Kowloon Walled City Park<br />

九 龍 寨 城 公 園<br />

The Kowloon Walled City Park sits on the site<br />

of the Kowloon Walled City, which by a quirk<br />

of history remained outside British jurisdiction<br />

after <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> became a colony.<br />

The South Gate of this Chinese-style park<br />

remnants with the original stone plaques and<br />

the pre-war concrete relics fully demonstrate<br />

the evolution of the City. The yamen, or<br />

administrative building, which is one of<br />

the very few surviving structures of its kind in South China, has been<br />

restored and preserved in-situ. Other significant surviving relics include<br />

two cannons (made in 1802) which are positioned at either end of the<br />

Yamen‘s front yard. The Garden of the Chinese Zodiac, the Chess<br />

Garden, the Mountain View Pavilion, the Kuixing Pavilion and Guibi<br />

Rock, Eight Floral Walks and the Garden of Four Seasons are six other<br />

landscape features worth appreciation. Open daily 6:30am to 11pm.<br />

Enquiries +852 2716 9962. (Free admission)<br />

Walk through the Kowloon Walled City Park and Carpenter Road<br />

Park. Cross Carpenter Road to reach Nam Kok Road, i.e. the<br />

Kowloon City Food District.<br />

5. Kowloon City Food District 九 龍 城 美 食 區<br />

A group of around 10 streets bounded<br />

by Prince Edward Road West, Junction<br />

Road and Carpenter Road is where you<br />

can find around 200 inexpensive and<br />

often family-run eateries serving local<br />

favourites, Southeast Asian dishes as<br />

well as cuisines from around the world.<br />

Take the Green Minibus 25M on Sa Po Road (beside Regal Oriental<br />

Hotel) to MTR Kowloon Tong Station and take the MTR train back to<br />

your hotel or other sightseeing destinations.<br />

Did you know…<br />

Former Kai Tak Airport<br />

The hair-raising landings at the former international airport at Kai Tak are<br />

a thing of the past with its former runway having been redeveloped into a<br />

state-of-the-art cruise terminal . The cruise terminal roof top garden is open to<br />

the public and free of charge.<br />

Wong Tai Sin & Kowloon City 47


Wong Tai Sin<br />

&<br />

Kowloon<br />

City<br />

Walking Map


Yuen Long<br />

元 朗<br />

Ping Shan Heritage Trail<br />

屏 山 文 物 徑<br />

MTR Tin Shui Wai Station Exit E. When<br />

you arrive at the ground floor, cross Tsui<br />

Sing Road. You will see Tsui Sing Lau<br />

Pagoda.<br />

1. Tsui Sing Lau Pagoda<br />

聚 星 樓<br />

FIRST HERITAGE<br />

TRAIL IN HONG KONG<br />

YUEN LONG<br />

Yuen Long, located in the northwest New Territories, has been<br />

transformed from a market town into a modern new town filled<br />

with residential and commercial developments. But the district still<br />

harbours incredible vestiges of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s past. Many heritage<br />

sites are still well preserved. The various centuries-old ancestral halls<br />

provide a rich vein of information about the early clan settlers in the<br />

New Territories. All of these heritage sites offer a wonderful way to<br />

literally step back in time and revisit the early days of Asia’s world<br />

city.<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s oldest pagoda, it is believed to have been built in about<br />

1486. The three-storey, green brick building is hexagonal shaped and<br />

stands 13 metres high. The top floor of the pagoda is home to Fui Shing<br />

(Champion Star) who is believed to be the deity in charge of success or<br />

failure in examinations. You will also see auspicious sayings inscribed<br />

on each floor. Open daily 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. Closed on<br />

Tuesdays and some public holidays. (Free admission)<br />

Did you know…<br />

Ping Shan Heritage Trail<br />

Originally Ping Shan was used to denote a number of villages<br />

situated below the Ping Shan Police Station. These included Sheung<br />

Cheung Wai, Kiu Tau Wai, Fui Sha Wai, Hang Tau Tsuen, Hang<br />

Mei Tsuen, Hung Uk Tsuen and Tong Fong Tsuen. But now, Ping Shan<br />

covers a much larger area.<br />

Follow the ‘Ping Shan Heritage Trail’ sign. Turn left and walk in the<br />

direction of the Tung Wah Group of Hospitals Kwok Yat Wai College.<br />

Follow the sign to Sheung Cheung Wai.<br />

50 Upper: Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall.<br />

Yuen Long<br />

51


2. Shrine of the Earthgod<br />

社 壇<br />

Just before you enter Sheung<br />

Cheung Wai you will come across<br />

a shrine dedicated to the Earthgod,<br />

She Kung, the deity that villagers<br />

believe protects their villages and<br />

homes. The shrines are usually simple brick structures on which pieces of<br />

stone are placed to symbolise the presence of the god.<br />

Turn left at the Shrine of the Earth God.<br />

3. Sheung Cheung Wai<br />

上 璋 圍<br />

This 200-year-old walled village is<br />

the only such village along the entire<br />

heritage trail. It consists of rows of<br />

symmetrical houses enclosed by a<br />

green brick wall. The gatehouse,<br />

shrines and some of the old houses<br />

are still standing. Part of the wall has been demolished but enough<br />

remains to give a good taste of a traditional Chinese walled village.<br />

Sheung Cheung Wai is private property and not open to the public.<br />

Follow the signs and turn right at the first junction and turn left at the<br />

second junction. Yeung Hau Temple is located on your left.<br />

4. Yeung Hau Temple<br />

楊 侯 古 廟<br />

Located in Hang Tau Tsuen, this temple is<br />

dedicated to the deity Hau Wong. The exact<br />

date of construction is unknown but renovations<br />

were undertaken in 1963 and 1991. The<br />

temple is divided into three bays housing the<br />

statues of Hau Wong, Kam Fa (Patron Saint<br />

of Expectant Mothers) and To Tei (God of the<br />

Earth).<br />

52<br />

Yuen Long 53


Go back to the last junction and turn left. Walk along the road and you<br />

will see the Tang Ancestral Hall.<br />

Follow the sign to Kun Ting Study Hall and Ching Shu Hin. Enter the Kun<br />

Ting Study Hall from the side entrance.<br />

5. Tang Ancestral Hall<br />

鄧 氏 宗 祠<br />

First constructed in 1273, this Tang clan Ancestral Hall is a magnificent<br />

three-hall structure with two internal courtyards, and is one of the finest<br />

examples of such a building in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. Worth noting is the elevated<br />

pathway in the front courtyard indicating that one of the Tang clansmen<br />

held a high-ranking position in the Imperial government. Open daily<br />

9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. Closed during the first three days of the<br />

Lunar New Year.<br />

Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall is next to the Tang Ancestral Hall.<br />

6. Yu Kiu Ancestral Hall<br />

愈 喬 二 公 祠<br />

Situated immediately to the south of the<br />

Tang Ancestral Hall, it was constructed<br />

in the early 16 th century by two 11 th<br />

generation Tang clan brothers. Apart<br />

from being an ancestral hall it also<br />

served as a school for kids in the Ping<br />

Shan villages. The layout and design<br />

of this building is identical to the Tang<br />

Ancestral Hall with its three halls and<br />

two internal courtyards. Open daily 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm.<br />

Closed during the first three days of the Lunar New Year.<br />

7. Kun Ting Study Hall<br />

覲 廷 書 室<br />

Used both for ancestor worship and as a study hall, this 1870s edifice<br />

is a stunning piece of craftsmanship. It is a two-hall building with an<br />

enclosed courtyard, noteworthy for its finely carved granite columns and<br />

granite block base along the facade. The distinguished design of the<br />

ancestral hall inside the Study Hall reflects the work of skilled craftsmen<br />

of that period.<br />

Ching Shu Hin is next to the Kun Ting Study Hall.<br />

8. Ching Shu Hin<br />

清 暑 軒<br />

This 1874 building was intended as<br />

a guesthouse for prominent scholars<br />

and visitors. It is a memorable<br />

feast for the eyes, decorated with<br />

carved panels, murals, patterned<br />

grilles, carved brackets and plaster<br />

mouldings – fully demonstrating the<br />

grandeur and elegance of a rich<br />

Chinese family’s residence.<br />

54<br />

Yuen Long 55


Turn left to Ping Ha Road. Walk along the road and the Hung Shing<br />

Temple is next to Hang Mei Tsuen Park.<br />

Hidden Treasures of Yuen Long<br />

9. Hung Shing Temple<br />

洪 聖 宮<br />

Hung Shing is widely worshipped, particularly by fishermen and people<br />

whose livelihoods depend upon the sea. The temple, built by the Tang<br />

clan in 1767, is a simple two-hall building with an open courtyard in<br />

between – unlike most other temples in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, where the open<br />

courtyards are roofed over to form incense towers.<br />

Did you know…<br />

Retrace your steps and follow the signs to the Light Rail Hang Mei<br />

Tsuen Station, take Route 761P and alight at Tai Tong Road Station.<br />

Here you will discover a wonderful world of hidden treasures in Yuen<br />

Long. See pages 57-58 for further details.<br />

56<br />

Yuen Long 57


2. Wife Cakes<br />

The delightfully-named wife cakes are buns filled with sweet winter<br />

melon paste. Legend has it that when the winter-melon puffs made<br />

by a woman in Guangdong Province were highly praised in public,<br />

her husband proudly declared that there were his wife’s cakes. The<br />

name ‘wife cake’ stuck.<br />

In <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>, back when the New Territories was a day trip away<br />

from the urban areas, it was de rigueur for visitors to Yuen Long to<br />

buy wife cakes to take home. Today, a lot of the city’s wife cakes<br />

are baked in Yuen Long, so this is still considered the place to get<br />

the freshest batches.<br />

58<br />

Yuen Long 59


Ping Shan<br />

Heritage<br />

Trail<br />

C<br />

M<br />

Y<br />

CM<br />

MY<br />

CY<br />

CMY<br />

K


Fanling<br />

粉 嶺<br />

MTR Fanling Station. Look for the<br />

temple‘s distinctive orange double roof.<br />

1. Fung Ying Seen Koon<br />

蓬 瀛 仙 館<br />

Dominating the skyline from its commanding site on a hillside overlooking<br />

the New Territories town of Fanling, the temple is a superb example of<br />

Taoist design and craftsmanship. Open daily 8:30am to 5pm. Enquiries<br />

+852 2669 9186. (Free admission)<br />

Go back to MTR Fanling Station and follow the sign to ‘Luen Wo<br />

Hui’. Turn left and go downstairs to the Green Minibus station and<br />

take Green Minibus 54K to Lung Yeuk Tau and alight at Shung<br />

Him Tong.<br />

2. Shung Him Tong<br />

崇 謙 堂<br />

WALLED VILLAGE<br />

FANLING<br />

With the rapid development of Fanling, the fields are pretty<br />

much gone, and the New Town is now filled with residential and<br />

commercial blocks. Culture and heritage buffs will be delighted with<br />

the cornucopia of treasures to see, including a stunning Taoist temple<br />

and a number of walled villages. It’s also fun to walk around in the<br />

nearby shopping mall and check out the local eateries and shops for<br />

a real slice of modern-day <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> life.<br />

Hakka Lutherans founded this village in<br />

1901 after escaping persecution. Of note<br />

is the fine Tsung Kyam Church (Tsung Kyam<br />

is the Hakka pronunciation of Shung Him),<br />

the only church with services in Hakka.<br />

Shung Him Tong is private property and not open to the public.<br />

Did you know…<br />

A Prestigious Marriage<br />

During the 12 th century, a Tang clan man rescued a young girl fleeing<br />

the invading Mongols. When she grew up, he arranged for her to<br />

marry his son. When peace and security was restored, she informed<br />

her husband that she was in fact related to royalty and was the daughter<br />

of the Emperor. Luckily, the Emperor was inclined to look favourably on<br />

the marriage and let it stand, giving her husband a suitable title and<br />

large estate to provide for his daughter. Most of the Tangs resident in<br />

the New Territories today are descended from their five sons.<br />

Upper: Fung Ying Seen Koon is one of the most<br />

62 important Tooist temple complexes in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>.<br />

Fanling<br />

63


Walk along the route to Ma Wat Wai, which is next to Ma Wat Wai<br />

children’s playground.<br />

3. Ma Wat Wai<br />

麻 笏 圍<br />

Walk along the route to Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall.<br />

5. The Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall<br />

松 嶺 鄧 公 祠<br />

At Ma Wat Wai, check out the<br />

gatehouse with its gun platform over the<br />

gate, dating back to about 1740. It’s<br />

made of thick plated wrought iron in two<br />

leaves with allows air to circulate and provides a good deal of strength<br />

at the same time. Access to the village is through a single narrow gate<br />

on the northwest side. The entrance gate of Ma Wat Wai became a<br />

Declared Monument in 1994.<br />

Walk along the route to Lo Wai.<br />

4. Lo Wai<br />

老 圍<br />

This old walled village is a must-visit in Lung<br />

Yeuk Tau, featuring thick walls accessible only<br />

through the single narrow gateway on the<br />

east side. The walls and the gatehouse have<br />

been restored recently and are Declared Monuments. The gatehouse<br />

contains a shrine to the Earthgod and has a gun platform above, but the<br />

village’s small canon is no longer. Several old houses within the walled<br />

village are still occupied. To avoid disturbing local residents, the interior<br />

of Lo Wai is not open to the public. Open daily 9am to 5pm (Lo Wai<br />

entrance).<br />

Did you know…<br />

Lung Yeuk Tau Heritage Trail<br />

The Sung dynasty Princess and her Tang clan husband settled in<br />

Lung Yeuk Tau in the 13 th century. Today his descendants occupy 11<br />

villages in the area, five of which are walled.<br />

This Declared Monument is a superb<br />

building, originally built in 1570 and<br />

rebuilt around 1700. It includes an<br />

Ancestral Hall that is a perfect example<br />

of the ‘Gentry Ancestral Hall’ or a hall for<br />

the descendants of some high officials<br />

(in this case the descendents of the Song Princess and her husband).<br />

The building is decorated with magnificent artworks and the construction<br />

style is elegant. There is also an Imperial Tablet dedicated to the Sung<br />

Princess and her husband, the only such tablet in <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>. Open<br />

daily 9am to 1pm and 2pm to 5pm. Closed on Tuesdays and some<br />

public holidays.<br />

Tin Hau Temple is next to the Tang Chung Ling Ancestral Hall.<br />

6. Tin Hau Temple<br />

天 后 宮<br />

The local Tin Hau Temple is an excellent piece of workmanship, entirely<br />

traditional in form and<br />

decoration. It was last<br />

restored in 1981. Tin Hau,<br />

protector of fishermen and<br />

one of <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong>’s most<br />

popular deities, is in the<br />

Main Hall while Kam Fa,<br />

goddess of childbirth, is<br />

in the side hall. Note the<br />

magnificent wall orchid<br />

that has been growing for the past 70 years.<br />

Take Green Minibus 54K back to MTR Fanling Station and take MTR<br />

back to town.<br />

64<br />

Fanling 65


Fanling<br />

Walking Map


<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board Visitor Information Services<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> International Airport Visitor Centre<br />

• Buffer Halls A and B, Arrivals Level, Terminal 1<br />

8am – 9pm daily<br />

Kowloon Visitor Centre<br />

• Star Ferry Concourse, Tsim Sha Tsui<br />

8am – 8pm daily<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Island Visitor Centre<br />

• The Peak Piazza (between The Peak Tower and The Peak Galleria)<br />

11am – 8pm daily<br />

Lo Wu Information Centre<br />

• Arrival Hall, 2/F, Lo Wu Terminal Building<br />

Information is correct as of February 2014, but is subject to change without<br />

prior notice.<br />

<strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board disclaims any liability for the quality or fitness for<br />

the purpose of third-party products or services; or for any errors or omissions.<br />

© Copyright <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board 2014<br />

68


Printed for the <strong>Hong</strong> <strong>Kong</strong> Tourism Board, English, February 2014 (1523)

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