Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 1 FIG. 3 FIG. 5 A bulkhead marked and ready for assembly to the false keel. FIG. 2 Deck plate mounting held with clothespins. FIG. 4 Bow blocks shaped. Black line is black tape defining chamfered width of false keel. FIG. 6 Bulkhead and false keel assembly. Bow blocks mounted. Stern blocks mounted. 8 STAGE A BUILDING THE HULL ASSEMBLY The Hull Assembly of any model represents 75% of the job. Besides serving as the support platform for the masts and rigging, most attention given by the observer will be directed toward the hull lines and deck details. For these reasons, the hull framework should be constructed with precision, creating a sturdy, true and perfectly symmetrical showpiece. The Prince de Neufchatel hull frame is made up of 22 bulkheads, a one-piece false keel and a deck plate. They are all laser cut to close tolerances, allowing a fit that should not require any additional fixtures for alignment when properly assembled. Extensive use of horizontal waterlines and vertical centerlines on these parts are a great help in establishing what will be the basis for all subsequent construction. 1. Bulkhead & False Keel Preparation: The bulkheads are cut from 1/8”-thick plywood and are sequentially identified “A” to “V” from bow to stern (see figure 1). Each of them has shaped extensions above the deck line to define the height of the bulwarks and they are grooved to fit over the 3/16”-thick false keel piece. (Bulkhead “O” does not extend above the deck so as to prevent interference with the gunport openings.) The pre-cut bulkheads have the deck camber cut in. Check the keel grooves for an accurate fit over the false keel. If too small, they should be widened equally about the centerline. Before mounting to the keel, label and mark each bulkhead with a vertical centerline and a horizontal line perpendicular to the centerline and through the deck crown at the bulwarks. Next, check all bulkhead grooves of the 3/16”-thick plywood false keel to ascertain that they will accept the 1/8”-thick bulkheads. The depth of the grooves should allow each bulkhead to sit with its center flush with the top of the false keel piece (see figure 2). Vertical lines should be drawn to establish bulkhead alignment on the keel piece at the forward side of each bulkhead groove. Note: all groove fits should be close, but not bind or allow excess movement. 2. Frame Assembly: Starting from either the bow or stern, sequentially glue the bulkheads into place (see figure 2). The center of each bulkhead should be aligned with the center of the keel piece, and the horizontal line on each bulkhead must be set perpendicular to the vertical side of the keel piece. This can be checked with a small square. The bulkhead should also be at a 90-degree angle to the keel piece. Sequential mounting is necessary to allow use of the square for each bulkhead alignment. Bulkheads can be held with white glue and clamped with clothespins. When properly aligned, the joint can be set by wicking in slow-set cyanoacrylate glue. A note on glues: White glues are slower setting and tolerant to parts adjustments. They tend to fill wood porosity, and this, along with their moisture content, provides a stronger bond when an additional application of cyanoacrylate glue is combined (for joints that need it). For more delicate assembly work, this combination of glues is not recommended, since some filleting may occur and the white glue does not always dry clear. A note on hull symmetry: Eyeballing– Even though you have carefully marked and set each bulkhead square on the false keel, keep eyeing the entire assembly from stern to bow to assure that no twist has set in that would result in a warped deck or cocked transom mounting. 3. Deck Plate Mounting: The sub-deck plate of 1/32”-thick laser cut aircraft grade plywood is the next item to be installed to the hull framework (see figure 3). Draw a centerline on the
FIG. 7a FIG. 7b Good Plank BHDS Bevel too great could leave as is but better to add wedge and re-sand Hump–sand to dotted line and recheck Good Stern blocks shaped. Chamfering of the bulkhead edges. FIG. 8 FIG. 9 Shows after-end of stern blocks which are left square until transom is installed. First strake of under-planking at deckplate level. deck plate from bow to stern. The bulkhead slots should also have lines drawn across the deck plate connecting them from port to starboard. These notches are deep enough to clear the bulkhead extension above the deck line. Check their widths for an accurate fit of the bulkhead thickness. Widen if too tight, but DON’T OVERWIDEN THESE SLOTS!!! They accurately position the bulkheads and straighten any curvature that may be present in the false keel piece. The fit of these slots should be equal to the snug fit of the keel to bulkhead joints. The deck plate can be held down to the deck camber by using clothespins at the edges of the bulkheads. Be sure the deck plate centerline is on the center of the false keel and the mast holes are over the mast grooves in bulkheads “E” and “N.” Small nails can be used to hold the plate in place on the top of the false keel. White or cyanoacrylate glue is then wicked into the joint of the bulkheads and the underside of the deck plate. 4. Bow & Stern Blocks: When the deck plate is set, bow and stern blocks of medium grade balsa are fitted (see figures 4 and 6). As sized, the grain of the bow blocks must run fore and aft, and the grain of the stern blocks must run vertically. Surfaces of these blocks have to be chamfered* (see figures 5 and 7a). This will allow a snug fit into the corners formed by the deck plate, false keel and bulkhead “A” at the bow; and bulkhead “V” at the stern. *Note: Chamfering means to cut or bevel the corner at an inclined angle for working the wood to a particular shape. 5. Bulkhead Edge Chamfering: The bulkhead edges have to be chamfered to properly accept the under planking and give a true look to the hull (see figure 7b). The Prince de Neufchatel hull does not require extensive work in this area. The bulkheads that require the most chamfering are “A, B, C, D, E, & F” at the bow and “P, Q, R, S, T, U & V” at the stern. The ten amidships from “G” to “O” can have square edges. To maintain the hull shape, the after corners of the bow bulkheads and the forward corners of the stern bulkheads to be chamfered should be marked with a pen or pencil. When chamfering, these corners should never disappear. The bulkhead thickness of 1/8” was selected to allow ease of chamfering, as well as provide a greater number of bulkheads for a better hull line. The best tools for chamfering this model are files. Flats can be used on the convex edges and rounds are the better choice for the concave edges at the stern. For these narrower bulkheads, knife cuts should not be required. When proceeding with the chamfering, you will find that the bow and stern blocks will be altered to maintain a true hull line all the way to the stem and stern post lines. This work will test your ability to set a fair curve line on the hull. It can only be done well with patience. Practice helps, but this may be your first try ... so, easy does it! The last chamfering to be done is the shaping of the false keel piece from bulkhead “D” to the bow and bulkhead “P” to the stern (see figures 5 and 8). Chamfer the false keel from its original 3/16” thickness to 1/8” thickness all the way to the deck plate at the bow and to the stern block at the stern. This tapering will accommodate the walnut stem, keel and sternpost pieces which will be added before applying the final hull planking. 6. Bulwark Plate Fitting & Mounting: The frame is now ready for the first strake of under-planking that is required to properly fit the bulwark plates (see figure 9). It is 1/16” x 3/16” basswood that will also be used for the under-planking of the lower hull. Mount it even with the top edge of the deck plate from bow to stern. It can be held in place at each bulwark with small nails and glue. Spring clamps will work best at the bow. (Wet forward ends of these strips to ease bending at the bow.) 9
Page 1 and 2: Prince De Neufchatel The War of 181
Page 3 and 4: (continued from page 1) ships that
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN Great attention ha
Page 7: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 15 FIG. 17 Stern blocks filed
Page 13 and 14: FIG. 29 FIG. 31 FIG. 33 Under-plank
Page 15 and 16: FIG. 43 FIG. 45 FIG. 47 Final plank
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 51 FIG. 53 FIG. 55 Basic block
Page 19 and 20: FIG. 59 FIG. 62b Trunnion & trunnio
Page 21 and 22: FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c Lashing S
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 70b 2 Wrap mast top FIG. 70c S
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 74 FIG. 76 Main gaff peak haly
Page 27 and 28: FIG. 81b Top gallant mast FIG. 81c
Page 29 and 30: KEY TO RIGGING PLAN Following is th

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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