Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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6 HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS AND PARTS The plans for the Prince de Neufchatel are drawn to full 3/16” (1:64) scale. This makes it easy for the modeler to take parts dimensions directly from the plans, as well as check each finished assembly portion for accuracy. To transfer information from instructions and plans to actual parts and materials, the following measuring tools are almost a must: 1. 6” or 12” Scale calibrated in both English and Metric measures. (The English should be divided to 1/64” and also provide decimal calibrations to .01.” The Metric should be divided into millimeters.) To work with the surfaces of the model, choose a scale made of thin plastic so it may be bent along the curves. 2. 6” Dividers which will allow one of the needlepoints to be converted to a pencil point. A Compass will fill this need if it has replaceable tips. 3. 6” Vernier Caliper calibrated in both English and Metric would be a useful addition to the above tools. Five Plans are provided: 1. P-001: Fabricated Components listed and shown in detail 2. P-002: Hull Assembly 3. P-003: Masts and Spars 4. P-004: Rigging Detail– shrouds, ratlines, stays, lifts, halliards, downhauls, braces & boom rigging 5. P-005: Rigging Detail– Clew lines, sheets, tacks, square sail outline, bow sprit rigging Sequential drawings and photos, not necessarily to scale, will be found throughout the instruction manual to help describe the assembly. In addition, a List of Parts can be found on a separate sheet included in the kit. It is strongly suggested that before starting construction, the modeler go through these instructions and the contents of the kit. Examining the kit will serve two purposes. First, the modeler will become familiar with the kit contents, and second; he will be able to determine that all has been supplied as listed on the enclosed List of Parts sheet. It is also suggested that all small fittings and hardware be sorted into labeled parts boxes or compartments to avoid loss during the building process. It’s surprising how familiar the modeler can become with the kit requirements by just handling the parts! Important: If you are planning to mount sails, read the Sail Option section now so you’ll be prepared for that final stage. SAIL OPTION If you are planning to rig sails on the model, preparation must be made early on. Additional blocks will be required for the bunt lines. Belaying plans should be layed out for leech lines, stay-sails and jib sheets. As will be mentioned in the two sections on rigging, the spares will be used up and some shifting of the belaying points may be required. The rigging of the square sail clews and sheets will also have to be done as the sails are bent. Study of the books listed in the bibliography will aid in building accuracy. Preparing the Sails: Using the Rigging Plans as a guide, make paper patterns of the sails first to be sure that your final sails will fit properly (see also figures 73a, 73b, 81a and 81c). Also be certain that the spars are set at their raised position as shown on the plans. With the patterns established, you can cut oversized pieces of cotton balloon cloth. These should be tinted with wood stain. Min- Wax “Driftwood” is a good choice, but stay away from stains with any red in them, such as mahogany, maple or walnut. The stained cloth can then be sized with clear lacquer and ironed flat. Next, draw panel lines on the sails. Hemming can be created simply by folding and gluing the edges. (While the pencil lines will define the sail structure, stitching the panel lines and the hems will add more detail in this scale.) There are many approaches to making sails and they have been well described in various publications. Your choice of method may be determined by the tools you have on hand. WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION The following tools and supplies are recommended for the construction process. Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites. A. Knives: 1. Set of hobby knives with a quantity of #ll blades and square and skew chisel blades 2. Box of single edge razor blades B. Files: 1. Set of medium needle files 2. Combination medium/coarse & round/flat rasp C. Saws: Razor saw set D. Clamps: 1. 6 Small C-clamps 2. 12 Wooden, spring clothespins E. Sandpaper: Assortment of grits from 100 to 240 F. Boring Tools: 1. Set of miniature drills, sizes 61-80 2. A pin vise 3. Set of miniature reamers G. Miscellaneous: 1. Small hammer 2. Tweezers 3. Small fine scissors 4. Miniature pliers a. round nose b. square c. diagonal cutters d. tapered, half-round 5. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape H. Finishing: 1. Brushes a. fine with round and square ends b. medium with round and square ends I. Supplies: (will be covered in detail in “Finishing the Model” section and throughout instructions) 1. Paint 2. Wood stains 3. White glue 4. Super glue 5. Glazes and stains Note: Miniature power tools such as drills, sanders and scroll saws will speed up some work, but are not necessary to construct this kit.
PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It may seem strange to begin an instruction manual with directions on applying the finishes to the model. Not so! Much time and effort can be saved, and a more professional result can be obtained, if the finishing process is carried out during construction. Painting of various small parts, masts and spars should be accomplished before they are installed on the model. Painting sequence must be a well thought out procedure, otherwise you may have difficulty as you proceed with assembly. For example, it is easier to paint a deckhouse or hatch coaming before it is glued to the deck. Put the parts aside until they are ready to be installed. Proper timing in the application of finishes and the use of masking tape to define painted edges should eliminate unsightly glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces. In the end, following these general suggestions will be to your advantage. Your first decision should be to determine how “finished” you want the model to be. A more authentic scheme will require the finishing of internal bulwarks, railings, transom, mast tops and doublings and deck furniture. This would entail using the following color scheme: 1. Red: internal bulwarks, gunport edges, oarport edges, hatch coamings, companionway coamings, gun carriages, pumps, windlass supports, bitts, inside gunport lids. 2. Black: mast tops, mast doublings, cap rail, main wale, outside ship’s boat, transom, bowsprit to doubling, spars, gaffs, booms and outside gunport lids. Metal parts such as gun barrels, anchors, cleats and rings can be finished with metal blackener or painted. 3. Yellow or gold: beak supports and structure, name lettering 4. Stains: Oak – deck planking, cabins and companionways; Dark Walnut – external hull, keel, stem, sternpost, inside ship’s boat, rudder; Natural Pine – unpainted mast sections To achieve an “all natural look” finish would require that most parts of the model be stained Dark Walnut, except for the deck, which should be stained in Oak. But even with this natural type look, a more attractive finish could be obtained by painting the cap rail and wale black. This would accent the lines of the hull. The hardware, guns, etc. could be left bright or blackened. Hatch coamings could revert to the Dark Walnut stain. Remember, each captain had his preferences and painted accordingly. You will be the captain of your ship and can do the same. Staining & Painting Techniques The following techniques will improve whichever finish you choose: 1. Stains should be applied to the part before mounting. This will eliminate any interference by glues that may be present on the surface. It will also prevent the bleeding of one stain color into another on an adjacent surface. 2. Paints should be applied to any part that will abut a surface which is to be a different color or stain. This will be particularly useful when joining the inner bulwark planking and the waterways with decking surface, and when mounting wales and the cap rail which are a different color than the hull or bulwarks. This step completely eliminates the need for masking or carefully painting a line. Some touch-up may be required, but it will be much easier than cutting an entire line. Beyond the parts or strakes that define different finishes, the painting can be done on the model. If the parts are pre-finished as suggested, any differences in gloss or glue marks will be eliminated by the application of a final overcoat of glaze or varnish. Whenever possible, surfaces to be painted should be placed horizontally to eliminate “runs” which will ruin the finish. Pointed brushes are best used for detail work and the flats will work best on the larger areas. Do not “build up” paint as it will hide structural details and could possibly chip while handling during construction. Detailed painting is best accomplished by steadying the hand against the work or other surface and only using the finger movements to apply the brush strokes. Only paints developed for model work should be used as they have the finer pigments which will not take away from surface details. Whenever possible, use standard colors as mixed by the manufacturer. This will allow a better match of color when going from one container to another. General finishing techniques require that any finish should set at least 24 hours before applying an additional coat or other treatment. (Each manufacturer will have a recommendation on drying and setting times for their products.) 7
Page 1 and 2: Prince De Neufchatel The War of 181
Page 3 and 4: (continued from page 1) ships that
Page 5: BEFORE YOU BEGIN Great attention ha
Page 9 and 10: FIG. 7a FIG. 7b Good Plank BHDS Bev
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 15 FIG. 17 Stern blocks filed
Page 13 and 14: FIG. 29 FIG. 31 FIG. 33 Under-plank
Page 15 and 16: FIG. 43 FIG. 45 FIG. 47 Final plank
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 51 FIG. 53 FIG. 55 Basic block
Page 19 and 20: FIG. 59 FIG. 62b Trunnion & trunnio
Page 21 and 22: FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c Lashing S
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 70b 2 Wrap mast top FIG. 70c S
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 74 FIG. 76 Main gaff peak haly
Page 27 and 28: FIG. 81b Top gallant mast FIG. 81c
Page 29 and 30: KEY TO RIGGING PLAN Following is th

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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