Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop
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FIG. 72d<br />
Line tied<br />
to pin<br />
FIG. 73c<br />
Making rope coils.<br />
Wrap tweezer handle<br />
Twist coil, glue<br />
and wrap at center<br />
Glue over<br />
belaying pins<br />
FIG. 73a<br />
Fore mast<br />
FIG. 73b<br />
Mast<br />
Stay<br />
Stay<br />
Fore<br />
Aft<br />
Wire<br />
rings<br />
Fore<br />
Halliard<br />
Aft<br />
Wire<br />
rings<br />
Halliard<br />
Downhaul<br />
Sheets<br />
Bowsprit<br />
Jib sail mounting.<br />
Downhaul<br />
Stay sail mounting<br />
Sheets<br />
Main gaff and driver boom with lifts, downhaulers,<br />
driver boom sheets and flag halyard.<br />
24<br />
STAGE G<br />
RUNNING RIGGING<br />
The running rigging are lines which<br />
control the setting of the sails and the<br />
positioning of the spars for maneuvering<br />
the ship. Since the lines are reeved<br />
through blocks and their positioning is<br />
meant to be actively changed, they are<br />
made up of supple untarred ropes. To<br />
simulate the ropes, all of the running<br />
rigging on the model is made up of various<br />
sized tan lines.<br />
The only rigging described in this section<br />
is that which is left on the ship when the<br />
sails are removed. A Key to Rigging is<br />
provided in the next section of this instruction<br />
manual.<br />
Remember: All of the spars and booms<br />
have to be mounted to the masts before<br />
this rigging can be started. Each of the<br />
spars should be pinned and glued into<br />
the masts and lashed with black line.<br />
As with the standing rigging, all of the<br />
running rigging lines should become<br />
smaller in diameter as they are worked<br />
upward on the masts. The rigging should<br />
also begin inboard to allow fingers and<br />
tools the room to lash and tie. As you are<br />
rigging, be sure to save all of the cut ends,<br />
as they will be made into rope coils for<br />
mounting over the belaying pins (see figure<br />
72d). All lines initially should be tied<br />
only at the belaying points to avoid interference<br />
with each subsequent connecting<br />
of a line. When all lines are in place as required,<br />
they may then be glued.<br />
Note: Although in most cases it is advisable<br />
to work the lines on the ship from<br />
top to bottom to avoid tangling the lines,<br />
some lines are best rigged by starting<br />
from the belaying point and working<br />
backwards.<br />
Important: Before starting to rig, be sure<br />
to mount any remaining blocks or fittings<br />
that are attached to the stays or other<br />
standing rigging lines. For the Prince de<br />
Neufchatel, these are the blocks on the<br />
fore stays through which the yard braces<br />
are reeved on their way to the deck and<br />
belaying pins. But all is not lost if some<br />
fittings have been overlooked; you can<br />
always add them as you rig, but your<br />
mounting access will be more restricted.<br />
1. Jib Sails<br />
The downhauls and halyards should run<br />
parallel to the fore stays (see figures 69<br />
and 73a). Without the sails, the tackles<br />
are extended nearly to the bowsprit, so<br />
the downhauls should be reeved through<br />
blocks lashed to the bowsprit, and then<br />
belayed aft. The halyards should be<br />
reeved through blocks on the mast and<br />
belayed below.<br />
FIG. 75a<br />
Fore gaff rigging is similar to that of main gaff.