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Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 72d<br />

Line tied<br />

to pin<br />

FIG. 73c<br />

Making rope coils.<br />

Wrap tweezer handle<br />

Twist coil, glue<br />

and wrap at center<br />

Glue over<br />

belaying pins<br />

FIG. 73a<br />

Fore mast<br />

FIG. 73b<br />

Mast<br />

Stay<br />

Stay<br />

Fore<br />

Aft<br />

Wire<br />

rings<br />

Fore<br />

Halliard<br />

Aft<br />

Wire<br />

rings<br />

Halliard<br />

Downhaul<br />

Sheets<br />

Bowsprit<br />

Jib sail mounting.<br />

Downhaul<br />

Stay sail mounting<br />

Sheets<br />

Main gaff and driver boom with lifts, downhaulers,<br />

driver boom sheets and flag halyard.<br />

24<br />

STAGE G<br />

RUNNING RIGGING<br />

The running rigging are lines which<br />

control the setting of the sails and the<br />

positioning of the spars for maneuvering<br />

the ship. Since the lines are reeved<br />

through blocks and their positioning is<br />

meant to be actively changed, they are<br />

made up of supple untarred ropes. To<br />

simulate the ropes, all of the running<br />

rigging on the model is made up of various<br />

sized tan lines.<br />

The only rigging described in this section<br />

is that which is left on the ship when the<br />

sails are removed. A Key to Rigging is<br />

provided in the next section of this instruction<br />

manual.<br />

Remember: All of the spars and booms<br />

have to be mounted to the masts before<br />

this rigging can be started. Each of the<br />

spars should be pinned and glued into<br />

the masts and lashed with black line.<br />

As with the standing rigging, all of the<br />

running rigging lines should become<br />

smaller in diameter as they are worked<br />

upward on the masts. The rigging should<br />

also begin inboard to allow fingers and<br />

tools the room to lash and tie. As you are<br />

rigging, be sure to save all of the cut ends,<br />

as they will be made into rope coils for<br />

mounting over the belaying pins (see figure<br />

72d). All lines initially should be tied<br />

only at the belaying points to avoid interference<br />

with each subsequent connecting<br />

of a line. When all lines are in place as required,<br />

they may then be glued.<br />

Note: Although in most cases it is advisable<br />

to work the lines on the ship from<br />

top to bottom to avoid tangling the lines,<br />

some lines are best rigged by starting<br />

from the belaying point and working<br />

backwards.<br />

Important: Before starting to rig, be sure<br />

to mount any remaining blocks or fittings<br />

that are attached to the stays or other<br />

standing rigging lines. For the Prince de<br />

Neufchatel, these are the blocks on the<br />

fore stays through which the yard braces<br />

are reeved on their way to the deck and<br />

belaying pins. But all is not lost if some<br />

fittings have been overlooked; you can<br />

always add them as you rig, but your<br />

mounting access will be more restricted.<br />

1. Jib Sails<br />

The downhauls and halyards should run<br />

parallel to the fore stays (see figures 69<br />

and 73a). Without the sails, the tackles<br />

are extended nearly to the bowsprit, so<br />

the downhauls should be reeved through<br />

blocks lashed to the bowsprit, and then<br />

belayed aft. The halyards should be<br />

reeved through blocks on the mast and<br />

belayed below.<br />

FIG. 75a<br />

Fore gaff rigging is similar to that of main gaff.

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