Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

More documents

Recommendations

Info

FIG. 63a FIG. 63b 1 Start 2 3 4 Rotate 180° Rotate 90° Rotate 180° Use a coarse or medium flat file Fore mast top assembly with platform. FIG. 64 5 6 7 8-sided 16-sided Round PROPORTIONS FOR TAPERING Yard Mast Gaff and Boom 1/3 2/3 Tapering spars and progression of flats. Fore top gallant with doubling and cross trees. 20 STAGE E MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION All of the parts that make up the masts and spars are drawn to full scale with dimensions. Each of the individual pieces should be cut to length and shaped (see figure 63a). They can be easily tapered by filing lengthwise, beginning with coarse files and progressing to fine files, and then sandpaper. Any minor tool marks that remain will be in keeping with the look of the actual masting which was usually hand-shaped along its length. When all pieces are shaped they should be stained “Natural Pine” before proceeding with the assembly. 1. Assembling the Masts When completed, both mast assemblies must be built in line from port to starboard to allow proper rigging set-up: Fore mast: This mast is built up in three sections: lower, top and top gallant. They should be connected at the doublings by mast caps and trestle trees. Cross trees also should be added between the top and top gallant (see figures 63b, 64 and 66a). Assemble and position a top platform between the lower and top mast. This top should be at a 10-degree angle to the mast so that it will sit level when the mast is mounted to the hull. Both masts have a 10-degree rake. Main mast: This mast is built up in two sections: lower and top mast poles. Connect them at the doubling with mast cap and trestle trees. Add cross trees to the trestle trees. When the mast assemblies are completed, position and mount the support cheeks into place at the doublings as shown in the plan (also see figures 65 and 66a). In the painted version, all doublings, including the caps at the top and the support cheeks at the bottom, can be painted black. Paint the lower ends of the masts red up to the rail level. 2. Spars & Booms Fore course and top spars: These should have the studding sail booms attached to their outer ends and pinned in place with the small brass nails (see plans). Simulate the brass bands to give an appearance that is to scale. All of the spars have jack stays: They are made by gluing the small jack stay eyebolts into holes drilled in the top of each spar. Cut the 1/32” brass rod to length and run it through the eyes. Super glue or solder into place. The painted version requires that all spar assemblies be painted black. If using the “all natural look,” you may keep the pine finish and paint only the jack stays and eyebolts black. Boom Assemblies: These require that the boom jaws be added. They are made from strip stock and are more easily shaped after they have been mounted to the sides of the booms. The painted version requires that all booms be painted black. The pine finish may be maintained for the “all natural look.” 3. Fittings Deadeyes, blocks, cleats and foot ropes can be easily applied before assembling and mounting the masting components (see figures 66b and 66c). Blocks: These can be sturdily mounted by inserting the wire strop into a drilled hole in the spar, then gluing. Next, simulate the scale rope strop and tie. Foot ropes: These are made from the fine black line and should be sized with Super glue to allow them to hold their shape. If you choose not to use Super glue, you may create the foot ropes from the kit-furnished fine black wire. Be sure the wire does not become kinked and lose its ropelike look. Painting the wire flat black also will help it look more to scale. Cleats: Paint them black. Position and mount as shown in the plans.
FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c Lashing Spar Stirrup Foot rope Typical foot rope. FIG. 67 A typical doubling with support cheek and mast cap. Mast assemblies mounted to hull. Bowsprit assembly shown mounted. 4. Bowsprit Assembly The last assembly of this construction stage is the bowsprit (see figure 67). It is made up of three sections: bowsprit, sprit mast and sprit pole. Before mounting, and if doing the painted version, finish them by painting the doublings black. If doing the “all natural look” version, paint only the ironwork black. The dolphin striker will be mounted during the rigging process. Next, drill holes vertically through the bowsprit assembly for the fore stays. The scale lashing of the sprit pole to the sprit mast is made with fine black line and should be glued into place. Eye pins are required on the sides of the bowsprit at the after end of the doubling to lead the fore stays aft. 5. Mounting Spars & Booms Each spar and boom should be drilled and the pins inserted at this time. All pinning will be done with the small brass nails in a similar fashion to the way the bitts were pinned to the deck. Insert the pins into the spar or boom ends and cut the heads off. The protruding ends eventually will be glued into holes in the masts. Pin holes also should be drilled in the mast assemblies at this time. The height of these holes will be determined by whether or not you plan to mount sails. See spar positions on the plans. FIG. 66b Block and deadeye stropping. Note: The spars and booms will not be attached to the masts until the standing rigging is finished. The last holes required are for the spar halyards. They should be drilled through the mast fore and aft at the height shown in the plans. The fore course spar and the main top spar do not have halyards, but should be hung on slings at a fixed level. 6. Mounting the Masts & Bowsprit The bowsprit and two mast assemblies must now be mounted to the hull in preparation for the standing rigging. This is where you will see the benefit of having the hull on its base. Two Mast Assemblies: Set the hull on a level surface and insert the masts into Line layered over wire their respective holes in the deck (see figure 66a). They should both have a 10-degree rake that is provided by the angle of the holes in the false keel. If not, shape the bases of the mast to allow proper rake. It is useful to make a cardboard template to help set the masts. They both should be set vertically port to starboard by measuring to the bottom of the base at an equal distance out from each beam to any point on the masts. As a further check for trueness, the masts should align with each other and with the stem. Bowsprit: This assembly is set into the bitts at its bow opening (see figure 67). Looking aft, it should align with both masts and be approximately 1/8” above the end of the stem. It is now prepared for the standing rigging as will be addressed in the next stage. 21
Page 1 and 2: Prince De Neufchatel The War of 181
Page 3 and 4: (continued from page 1) ships that
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN Great attention ha
Page 7 and 8: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 9 and 10: FIG. 7a FIG. 7b Good Plank BHDS Bev
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 15 FIG. 17 Stern blocks filed
Page 13 and 14: FIG. 29 FIG. 31 FIG. 33 Under-plank
Page 15 and 16: FIG. 43 FIG. 45 FIG. 47 Final plank
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 51 FIG. 53 FIG. 55 Basic block
Page 19: FIG. 59 FIG. 62b Trunnion & trunnio
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 70b 2 Wrap mast top FIG. 70c S
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 74 FIG. 76 Main gaff peak haly
Page 27 and 28: FIG. 81b Top gallant mast FIG. 81c
Page 29 and 30: KEY TO RIGGING PLAN Following is th

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?