Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 50B The model on launching ways shown at a more completed stage of construction. 16 STAGE C MOUNTING THE HULL Before proceeding with additional work it is best to mount the hull. This step will help prevent details from becoming damaged during handling and will allow you to make any alignments that require a true waterline. Proper mounting of the hull is very important and will allow the accurate building and aligning of the remainder of the model. While any modeler can devise his own mounting, there are two commercial types of mounting available to you. 1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals (not included) The first is the traditional mounting board with two brass pedestals. This requires that holes be drilled through the keel into the false keel. The first hole drilled for the Prince de Neufchatel should be 5 1/2” from the aft end of the keel. The second hole should be spaced 8” from the first. This spacing, along with same sized pedestals, will give a proper set to the waterline. A 20” x 4 1/2” walnut baseboard will give adequate support. Screw holes in the baseboard also should be spaced 8” apart on the centerline and 6” from either end. When drilling the keel for the pedestal mounting screws, it is best to clamp wood strips on either side of the keel to prevent it from breaking out during drilling. Any thin walls will be supported by the pedestals when they are mounted between the keel and the baseboard. The screw heads at the bottom of the baseboard should be countersunk so they won’t protrude, but will instead provide a flush surface. Be sure to drill the screw holes vertically (port to starboard) as they will determine the level of the hull abeam. When inserting the screws, apply a coating of glue to help their holding power in the plywood false keel. 2. Launching Ways (included in the kit) The second type of mounting that can be employed is the launching ways, which are most suitable for a model without sails (see photo 50b). It is supplied in kit form with instructions. Drilling of the keel is still required to apply the rods that anchor the model to the ways. In addition, there have to be hull props for a model the size of the Prince de Neufchatel. The launching ways are easily assembled and should be mounted on a minimal board size of 24” x 6.” (Expanding the size of the board will allow you to create a mini-diorama comprised of boat yard ground activity.) To achieve the proper waterline level the ways should rise 3/4” from stern to bow end over the 24.” Note: It is recommended that either choice mounting piece be finished before mounting the Hull Assembly into place. During mounting, be sure that the rails of the hull are level with the mount. Future alignments, especially the masting, will be gauged from this base. STAGE D DECK FURNITURE The Baltimore Clippers of the War of 1812 were rather hastily built and had only a single weather deck. Because of this arrangement, only the most essential structures were incorporated in order to create the least interference with armament and larger crews. From bow to stern, the Prince de Neufchatel provided a fore grid platform with belaying pins aft at rail level, cat heads for ground tackle, bowsprit bitts, a focs’l (pronounced fokes’l which is the forecastle or forward deck popularly known as the space below cabin for crew) companionway, a simple anchor windlass with support bitts, galley hatch, amidships cargo hatch and a smaller winch forward of the mainmast (see
FIG. 51 FIG. 53 FIG. 55 Basic blocks created for deck furniture, hatches and cabins. FIG. 52 FIG. 54 Galley hatch with stack on forward deck. Completed cabin and tiller aft. Open gunport lids can be seen. Forward companionway in place. Main hatch, pumps, aft hatch and basic cabin assembly (from right to left). figure 51). Aft of the main mast are the bilge pumps, a smaller loading and ventilating hatch and a main cabin with a companionway forward of the tiller. This section will also include fabrication of the gunport lids, channels with deadeyes and chain plates, and the belaying pin racks inboard abeam the fore and main masts. When assembling and mounting these details all finishing, paint or stain, should be applied before any glue touches the wood. 1. Bowsprit & Bitts At the very bow an opening must be cut to accept the bowsprit which is nominally 1/2” in diameter. The bitts should be assembled and mounted aft of it (Figures 56 and 60 show these details at more completed stages of construction). These bitts, as well as others, should be pinned into the deck using the small brass nails provided. Insert the nails into the feet of the bitts, cut off the nail heads, leaving a portion of the shaft, and mount them into holes which have been drilled into the deck. The bowsprit may be mounted at this time. 2. Forward Companionway The forward companionway is created with a balsa block set into the most forward opening of the deck (see figure 52). It should be planked with the .021” x 5/32” walnut planks. Trim the vertical corners with the 3/32” basswood angle and the base with 5/64” square walnut. Fashion the top out of two strips of walnut using brass strips to represent the hinges. 3. Windlass Bitts (Fore & Main) Mount these upright supports in the same manner as the bowsprit bitts (see figure 56 for fore windlass bitts, and figure 60 which shows catheads and rail bitts at the bow). 4. Hatches (Galley, Main & Aft) All three deck hatches are constructed in the same manner (see figures 53 and 54). Cut 1/8”-thick basswood to fit each hatch opening in the deck. Paint them black and assemble grid strips to fit and glue onto the plate. This assembly should then be set, leveled and glued into the appropriate deck opening. The stained grid with the black backing gives a look of depth. Surround each of the deck hatches with a coaming of 1/16” x 1/4” basswood; either stained or painted. Note: The galley hatch is located aft of the foremast and has added detail in the form of a galley stack (see figure 53). Cover the hatch’s forward end with a solid plank as indicated in the plans and mount the stack on it. Note: An oddball hatch is located forward where the port and starboard rails meet. Use the grid as before and cut the hatch to shape. Mount 9 belaying pins in the after side and glue into place (see figure 56). 5. Main Cabin Shape the main cabin from the larger balsa block to fit the deck opening. Plank it, as well as the sides of the companionway and the skylight, with the .021” x 5/32” walnut (see figure 55). The cabin and companionway tops should then be covered with the scored sheet. Next, paint the top of the skylight black and then apply the 1/32” square framing. This assembly should then be set into the deck and the corners trimmed with angle stock. Then place 5/64” square molding around the bottom of the cabin at deck level. Finally, assemble the companionway door using boards slipped into a vertical frame with a latch at the top. 6. Rudder, Mast openings, Pump Assemblies At the rudder post and mast openings, plates of 3/64” (l mm) walnut should be mounted (see figures 56 and 57). Mount the two pump assemblies at the rear corners of the mainmast plate (see figure 54). After shaping its post, insert the rudder 17
Page 1 and 2: Prince De Neufchatel The War of 181
Page 3 and 4: (continued from page 1) ships that
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN Great attention ha
Page 7 and 8: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 9 and 10: FIG. 7a FIG. 7b Good Plank BHDS Bev
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 15 FIG. 17 Stern blocks filed
Page 13 and 14: FIG. 29 FIG. 31 FIG. 33 Under-plank
Page 15: FIG. 43 FIG. 45 FIG. 47 Final plank
Page 19 and 20: FIG. 59 FIG. 62b Trunnion & trunnio
Page 21 and 22: FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c Lashing S
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 70b 2 Wrap mast top FIG. 70c S
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 74 FIG. 76 Main gaff peak haly
Page 27 and 28: FIG. 81b Top gallant mast FIG. 81c
Page 29 and 30: KEY TO RIGGING PLAN Following is th

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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