Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 36 FIG. 39 Final planking of bulwarks amidships above wale. FIG. 37 FIG. 38 The keel amidships with one of the strengthening finishing nails showing. FIG. 40 14 Three laser-cut stem pieces. cover the oarports (see figure 36). The oarports are to be opened after final planking is complete, just as they were after the first layer of planking. 8. Lower Hull Final Planking Before beginning the final planking of the lower hull, mount the keel, stern post and stem pieces to the false keel (see figures 37 and 38). They are wider than the keel pieces, which will provide the rabbet (groove to receive plank edges) needed for planking at the bow and stern. These parts should be stained “walnut” before mounting. The keel piece should be nailed to the bottom of the false keel in addition to using glue (see figures 39 and 40). Larger finishing nails can be used here, but to prevent the keel from splitting, drill holes for the nails before driving them into the wood. The stem mounted to the false keel. 9. Creating Batten Lines on the Lower Hull For the hull below the wale to achieve a scale-like appearance, that area should be divided into three sections by battens before laying the final planking (see figure 41). This procedure is described in the Planking <strong>Manual</strong> (included in the kit). Since there is already a hull surface provided by the first layer of planking, narrow strips of chart tape can be substituted for wooden battens. They will be easier to work around. After creating the batten divisions, plank the upper and lower sections first, then finish with the center section (see figure 42). 10. Plank Tapering For the Hull The Neufchatel hull allows the simplest plank tapering. From amidships to the bow, each strake is tapered from its full width down to 1/16” (see figure 43). It is best to do this tapering off the ship on full length strips. From amidships aft, all planks are left full width, and stealers will be required (see figures 44, 45 and 46). All planking can be attached with a thin layer of white glue to hold the tougher areas. Those planks which curve around the bow should be soaked in water and held to a form, such as a jar lid, until they dry. This makes the bow planking proceed much faster. To further improve the scale look, each strake should be divided into scalelengths of 4” representing approximately 21 feet. These divisions are best cut after each strake is applied, and before the next is set into place. In total, there should be 21 strakes from keel to wale. Refer to the Planking <strong>Manual</strong> for the proper spacing of plank “ends” from strake to strake. Strake ends tucked into the rabbet at bow and stern will give a The stern post and the shape of the after-end of the keel. FIG. 41 Batten lines created on the lower hull with tape. FIG. 42 Final planking on the lower hull.
FIG. 43 FIG. 45 FIG. 47 Final planking on bow showing tapering. Final planking on stern nearly completed. Start of deck final planking showing guide strip on centerline. FIG. 44 FIG. 46 FIG. 48 Final planking on the lower stern showing the first stealer position. Final planking amidships. A method of forming cap rail strips. very realistic appearance. For those with more ambition, treenails* can be added to the butt ends of the planks. When hull final planking is completed, another coat of stain will even out the finish. *Treenails are easily made from round tapered toothpicks which can be glued into any size hole and clipped off. Smoothing of the surface may require refinishing. 11. Deck Final Planking Returning to above deck, the oak stained basswood strips will be used to cover the deck base plate. A first strake should be laid full length down the center line of the hull (see figure 47). Be sure to drill small holes at the mast openings or they will be lost as the planking continues. The next planks will fill the areas between hatch and cabin openings in the deck plate. The remainder of the plank strips can be cut into 4” lengths to be laid in a three-step pattern. Save some strips to make those planks which may require a little longer length to fill an area. (No real deck would ever have a one or two foot long plank. Once again, you eager beavers can add treenails if desired.) The deck should be planked right out to the bulwarks, but does not require an exact fit at the edges, since this joint will be covered by the waterway. The waterway is made of 1/4-round stock and should be painted red or stained “walnut” before mounting. It should be soaked and curved at the bow end before finishing and mounting. It will run the length of the bulwarks and across the stern. 12. The Cap Rail To maintain a smooth curvature, the cap rail around the top of the bulwarks is made from 5/64” x 5/64” ( 2 x 2 mm) walnut strip stock. The cap rail is three strips wide with the middle centered on the bulwark top. Those portions of the rail stripping that cover the bow should be soaked and set around a form to dry (see figure 48). All strips should be finished before mounting (see figure 49). The painted version should be done in black and the “all natural look” stained “walnut.” The first rail strip to be mounted is the center strip. To it, the inner and outer strips are applied (see figure 50a). Top corner edges should be rounded and the top smoothed. Next, refinish the cap rail in the areas that were sanded. For detail, you can cut scarf lines every twenty scale-feet or so. (For those who are using the “all natural look” finish, pick rail strips that are alike in color.) This completes the Basic Hull Assembly. FIG. 49 Bow cap rail strips ready for mounting. FIG. 50a Outer cap rail strips clamped for gluing. 15
Page 1 and 2: Prince De Neufchatel The War of 181
Page 3 and 4: (continued from page 1) ships that
Page 5 and 6: BEFORE YOU BEGIN Great attention ha
Page 7 and 8: PAINTING & STAINING THE MODEL It ma
Page 9 and 10: FIG. 7a FIG. 7b Good Plank BHDS Bev
Page 11 and 12: FIG. 15 FIG. 17 Stern blocks filed
Page 13: FIG. 29 FIG. 31 FIG. 33 Under-plank
Page 17 and 18: FIG. 51 FIG. 53 FIG. 55 Basic block
Page 19 and 20: FIG. 59 FIG. 62b Trunnion & trunnio
Page 21 and 22: FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c Lashing S
Page 23 and 24: FIG. 70b 2 Wrap mast top FIG. 70c S
Page 25 and 26: FIG. 74 FIG. 76 Main gaff peak haly
Page 27 and 28: FIG. 81b Top gallant mast FIG. 81c
Page 29 and 30: KEY TO RIGGING PLAN Following is th

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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