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Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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FIG. 21<br />

FIG. 23 FIG. 25<br />

Bow under-planking below bulwarks. Bow completely covered with under-planking. Under-planking at stern clamped to false keel.<br />

FIG. 22<br />

FIG. 24<br />

FIG. 26<br />

Bow under-planking ready for stealers.<br />

Under-planking faired to false keel.<br />

Stern under-planking below bulwarks.<br />

12<br />

STAGE B<br />

SURFACING THE HULL ASSEMBLY<br />

What follows are the steps explaining<br />

how to properly plank the various areas<br />

of the hull from the keel up to the bulwarks<br />

and its railing. This will include<br />

various finishing requirements for those<br />

parts of the hull assembly and planking<br />

which will make finishing a lot less difficult.<br />

Each step will advise the type of finish<br />

required for either the painted or “all<br />

natural look” options. This particular<br />

hull shape is one of the easiest to plank<br />

and should cause little difficulty.<br />

1. Lower Hull Under-Planking<br />

The first surface to be covered is the<br />

lower hull below the first planking strake<br />

and below the bulwark plates (see figures<br />

21-Bow and 26-Stern). All strakes are<br />

1/16” x 3/16” basswood and require no<br />

finish before mounting. The only purpose<br />

for this planking is to provide a surface<br />

for the second and final layer of<br />

planking. For this reason, you can save<br />

time by not worrying about tapering<br />

planks toward the bow unless you want<br />

the practice. All initial applications of<br />

planking are left full width and allowed<br />

to take a natural line along the lower hull<br />

starting initially at the top.<br />

Other strakes can be laid along the false<br />

keel bottom even with the 1/8” width<br />

that was chamfered when the hull frame<br />

assembly was built (see figure 25-Stern).<br />

As you work up from the bottom and<br />

down from the top, there will be tapered<br />

openings left in the hull areas. These<br />

openings should be filled with “stealers”<br />

(“short lengths of plank worked in<br />

among other strakes to facilitate rounding<br />

off in parts of great curvature”).<br />

Stealers were and are still used in the<br />

planking of life-size ships. These stealers<br />

can be made as required from the planking<br />

material (see figures 22-Bow and 27-<br />

Stern). Doing this step affords the modeler<br />

additional practice that will be helpful<br />

when it comes time to apply the final<br />

planking surface.<br />

2. Applying Filler<br />

to the Under-Planking<br />

When finished with the under-planking,<br />

apply filler to any small cracks that may<br />

exist. This will give a uniform surface for<br />

the next layer (see figure 23-Bow).<br />

When the glue and filler have set, usually<br />

overnight, shape the under-hull by filing<br />

and sanding. Flat files can be used on the<br />

convex surfaces and rounded files will<br />

work best on the concave areas. The planking<br />

must be faired into the 1/8” width of<br />

the false keel edge (see figures 24-Bow, 28-<br />

FIG. 27<br />

Stern under-planking ready for stealers.<br />

FIG. 28<br />

Under-planking faired to false keel.

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