Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

Prince De Neufchatel 

The War of 1812 began on 

June 18 when America declared 

war against England. 

One of the reasons America 

took this action was her 

strong objection to England’s 

insistence on impressing 

American seaman into service 

with the Royal Navy. At 

the time, America’s “navy” 

numbered only one half 

dozen frigates and six or 

eight sloops and brigs. Great 

Britain’s world power fleet 

numbered 1,000 sail. It was 

no wonder that the over-confident 

English viewed the 

American upstarts with contemptuous 

indifference. 

England’s astounding defeat, 

however, was due in large 

part to her relaxed training 

attitude and a continuing reliance 

on her former cause for 

victory: seamanship. Maneuvering 

and gunnery were 

given little attention. But, the 

American seaman, besides 

being too young to be overconfident, 

had grown exceptionally 

adept in those areas. 

All their skills were acquired 

by “hard knocks” received 

while serving on commercial 

(continued page 3) 

Technical Characteristics 

Scale: 3/16” = 1 ft. (1:64) 

Height: 23” 

Width: 5” 

Length: 32-1/2” 

Kit No. 2110

Instruction Manual 

9th Century Privateer Hermaphrodite-Schooner 

Prince De Neufchatel 

1812-15 

By Robert L. Evans 

©Copyright 2005 

Model Shipways, Inc. 

3850 N 29th Terrace • Hollywood, FL 33020 

2

(continued from page 1) 

ships that were drawn into petty 

skirmishes with French frigates, the 

Moors of Tripoli and the many pirates 

or privateers that sailed the 

waters looking for easy wealth. 

And, while England rested on her 

laurels, America’s resilient, intelligent 

young men were being trained 

to the maximum. 

Credit for America’s success in 

winning the War of 1812 belongs 

in part to the many privateers who 

signed on to do battle against the 

might of England. According to 

Falconer’s Dictionary of the Marine 

(1768), “Privateers are vessels of 

war armed and equipped by particular 

merchants, and furnished with 

commissions from the State to 

cruise against and annoy the 

enemy by taking, sinking, or burning 

their shipping.” The commission, 

authorized by a letter-of-marque, 

empowered merchants to appropriate 

to their own use whatever 

prize (actual capture of a vessel) 

they made, as well as receive monetary 

allowance for each prisoner 

taken. 

While on the whole the privateers, 

as irregular forces, were certainly 

no match for the the British regular 

cruisers, they inflicted enormous 

damage on the foe. Among four of 

the privateers that were most creditable 

was the speedy brigantine 

Prince de Neufchatel captained by 

J. Ordronaux of New York. A superbly 

built vessel of 310 tons, she 

mounted 18 guns and originally 

possessed a crew of 150 men. 

Her most awesome battle occurred 

on October 11th just after having 

made a very successful cruise. She 

had on board 37 prisoners and 

$300,000 in goods, but had manned 

and sent in so many prizes that 

only 40 of her crew remained. With 

little warning, the crew found 

themselves pursued by the British 

frigate Endymion which, during a 

calm, dispatched 5 boats containing 

111 men. The Neufchatel opened fire 

on the boats but they were soon 

alongside, and the British clamored 

aboard the hopelessly undermanned 

brigantine. A desperate 

battle ensued. The slaughter was 

frightful. The British lost with 28 

killed, 37 wounded and 10 taken 

prisoner. American losses were 7 

killed, 15 badly and 9 slightly 

wounded, with only 9 men untouched! 

This incredible battle with 

its miraculous outcome reflected 

the highest honor on the American 

captain and his crew. 

After returning to Boston with her 

prize, she was issued a new letterof-marque 

and sailed in December 

of 1814 under the command of 

Nicholas Millin. On the 26th, she 

was spotted and chased by three 

British frigates; Leander, Newcastle 

and Acasta. Prince de Neufchatel 

would have escaped, if not for the 

fact that she lost spars by carrying 

too much sail. The commodore of 

the frigate squadron was so impressed 

by the schooner’s speed 

that rather than having her condemned 

in Halifax, he had her sent 

to the Deptford Dockyard to be 

surveyed. Her lines were taken, but 

in handling, her back was broken 

on the dock gate sill. This accident 

prevented her from being taken 

into Royal Navy service and she 

was sold off. 

One of the most notorious of the 

American privateers during the 

War of 1812, Prince de Neufchatel 

was supposedly built by Christian 

Bergh at New York in 1812-13 and 

was named for Berthier, one of 

Napoleon’s marshalls of the period. 

One of the larger privateers. she 

measured 107’ 6” at the waterline, 

and possessed a speed equal to design 

speeds of clipper ships built 40 

years later. Because she had a size 

and shape that could attain high 

speeds and hold more firepower, 

her shape was given to a whole 

fleet of opium clippers. 

Armament for the privateers was 

usually sixteen 12-pounder carronades 

and two long 18’s as chase 

guns. All were carriage mounted to 

allow more positioning freedom, 

and to accommodate the higher 

bulwarks found on the privateers. 

3

Construction Stages and Table of Contents 

Brief History Cover, pg 3 

Credits Pg 2 

Before You Begin Pg 5 

How to Work With the Plans and Parts Pg 6 

Sail Option (Read before beginning construction) Pg 6 

What You’ll Need to Start Construction Pg 6 

Painting & Staining the Model Pg 7 

Stage A: Building the Hull Assembly Pg 8 

1. Bulkhead & False Keel Preparation Pg 8 

2. Frame Assembly Pg 8 

3. Deck Plate Mounting Pg 8 

4. Bow and Stern Blocks Pg 9 

5. Bulkhead Edge Chamfering Pg 9 

6. Bulwark Plate Fitting & Mounting Pg 9 

7. Transom Pg 10 

8. Inner Bulwark Preparation Pg 11 

Stage B: Surfacing the Hull Assembly Pg 12 

1. Lower Hull Under-planking Pg 12 

2. Applying Filler to the Under-planking Pg 12 

3. Inboard Bulwarks Pg 13 

4. Outer Final Planking Pg 13 

5. Planking the Inner Bulwarks Pg 13 

6. Outboard Final Planking Pg 13 

7. Stern Final Planking Pg 13 

8. Lower Hull Final Planking Pg 14 

9. Creating Batten Lines on the Lower Hull Pg 14 

10. Plank Tapering For the Hull 

11. Deck Final Planking 

12. The Cap Rail 

Pg 14 

Pg 15 

Pg 15 

Stage C: Mounting the Hull Pg 16 

1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals Pg 16 

2. Launching Ways Pg 16 

Stage D: Deck Furniture Pg 16 

1. Bowsprit & Bitts Pg 17 

2. Forward Companionway Pg 17 

3. Windlass Bitts (Fore & Main) Pg 17 

4. Hatches (Galley, Main & Aft) Pg 17 

5. Main Cabin Pg 17 

6. Rudder, Mast Openings, Pump Assemblies Pg 17 

7. Belaying Pin Racks & Channels Pg 18 

8. Gunport Lids Pg 18 

9. Bow Pg 18 

10. Railing Bitts & Knightheads 

11. Armament 

Pg 18 

Pg 18 

Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction Pg 20 

1. Assembling the Masts Pg 20 

2. Spars & Booms Pg 20 

3. Fittings Pg 20 

4. Bowsprit Assembly Pg 21 

5. Mounting Spars & Booms Pg 21 

6. Mounting the Masts & Bowsprit Pg 21 

Stage F: Standing Rigging Pg 22 

1. Bowsprit Rigging Pg 22 

2. Fore-stays Pg 22 

3. Shrouds Pg 23 

4. Back-stays Pg 23 

5. Lifts Pg 23 

Stage G: Running Rigging Pg 24 

1. Jib Sails Pg 24 

2. Stay-Sails Pg 25 

3. Gaffs Pg 25 

4. Driver Boom Pg 25 

5. Spars Pg 25 

6. Ground Tackle Pg 26 

7. Flag Halyard Pg 26 

8. Ship’s Boat Pg 26 

Key to Rigging Plan Pg 29 

Bibliography Pg 30

BEFORE YOU BEGIN 

Great attention has been given to compiling 

these instructions so the less experienced 

modeler will have a more complete 

understanding of the design intent 

of the prefabricated parts and fittings in 

the kit. Alternately, the more experienced 

modeler will find that parts provisions 

are flexible enough to allow application 

of individual building techniques and sequences 

other than those suggested in 

this manual. 

An attempt has been made in the kit design 

to provide materials which lessen 

the time and skill required to produce the 

finished model. Laser cut parts are used 

extensively, particularly for the bulwarks. 

This will allow a more accurate 

placement of the gun and oar ports. The 

laser cut false keel and bulwarks also 

give a more accurate shape to the hull. 

These prefabricated parts do not, however, 

eliminate the individual fitting and 

adjustments that must be made during 

construction, due to variances in manufacturing 

tolerances and the modeler’s 

care in construction. 

For those familiar with Model Shipway’s 

kit of the Fair American, you’ll find construction 

of this kit to be somewhat similar. 

The topsail schooner rig will be less 

involved, but size will present more difficulty. 

The hull shape, however, lends itself 

to ease of planking. Anyone who 

builds this Baltimore Clipper should find 

it a satisfying step toward more involved 

modeling experiences. 

Those of you wanting to expand the details 

of your model will find all of the required 

additional specifications in the 

publications listed in the Bibliography. 

Happy modeling! 

5

6 

HOW TO WORK WITH THE 

PLANS AND PARTS 

The plans for the Prince de Neufchatel are 

drawn to full 3/16” (1:64) scale. This 

makes it easy for the modeler to take 

parts dimensions directly from the plans, 

as well as check each finished assembly 

portion for accuracy. To transfer information 

from instructions and plans to actual 

parts and materials, the following measuring 

tools are almost a must: 

1. 6” or 12” Scale calibrated in both English 

and Metric measures. (The English 

should be divided to 1/64” and also provide 

decimal calibrations to .01.” The 

Metric should be divided into millimeters.) 

To work with the surfaces of the 

model, choose a scale made of thin plastic 

so it may be bent along the curves. 

2. 6” Dividers which will allow one of 

the needlepoints to be converted to a 

pencil point. A Compass will fill this 

need if it has replaceable tips. 

3. 6” Vernier Caliper calibrated in both 

English and Metric would be a useful addition 

to the above tools. 

Five Plans are provided: 

1. P-001: Fabricated Components listed 

and shown in detail 

2. P-002: Hull Assembly 

3. P-003: Masts and Spars 

4. P-004: Rigging Detail– shrouds, ratlines, 

stays, lifts, halliards, downhauls, 

braces & boom rigging 

5. P-005: Rigging Detail– Clew lines, 

sheets, tacks, square sail outline, bow 

sprit rigging 

Sequential drawings and photos, not necessarily 

to scale, will be found throughout 

the instruction manual to help describe 

the assembly. In addition, a List of 

Parts can be found on a separate sheet included 

in the kit. 

It is strongly suggested that before starting 

construction, the modeler go through 

these instructions and the contents of the 

kit. Examining the kit will serve two purposes. 

First, the modeler will become familiar 

with the kit contents, and second; 

he will be able to determine that all has 

been supplied as listed on the enclosed 

List of Parts sheet. It is also suggested 

that all small fittings and hardware be 

sorted into labeled parts boxes or compartments 

to avoid loss during the building 

process. It’s surprising how familiar 

the modeler can become with the kit requirements 

by just handling the parts! 

Important: If you are planning to mount 

sails, read the Sail Option section now so 

you’ll be prepared for that final stage. 

SAIL OPTION 

If you are planning to rig sails on the 

model, preparation must be made early 

on. Additional blocks will be required for 

the bunt lines. Belaying plans should be 

layed out for leech lines, stay-sails and jib 

sheets. As will be mentioned in the two 

sections on rigging, the spares will be 

used up and some shifting of the belaying 

points may be required. The rigging 

of the square sail clews and sheets will 

also have to be done as the sails are bent. 

Study of the books listed in the bibliography 

will aid in building accuracy. 

Preparing the Sails: Using the Rigging 

Plans as a guide, make paper patterns of 

the sails first to be sure that your final 

sails will fit properly (see also figures 

73a, 73b, 81a and 81c). Also be certain 

that the spars are set at their raised position 

as shown on the plans. With the patterns 

established, you can cut oversized 

pieces of cotton balloon cloth. These 

should be tinted with wood stain. Min- 

Wax “Driftwood” is a good choice, but 

stay away from stains with any red in 

them, such as mahogany, maple or walnut. 

The stained cloth can then be sized 

with clear lacquer and ironed flat. Next, 

draw panel lines on the sails. Hemming 

can be created simply by folding and gluing 

the edges. (While the pencil lines will 

define the sail structure, stitching the 

panel lines and the hems will add more 

detail in this scale.) 

There are many approaches to making 

sails and they have been well described 

in various publications. Your choice of 

method may be determined by the tools 

you have on hand. 

WHAT YOU’LL NEED 

TO START CONSTRUCTION 

The following tools and supplies are recommended 

for the construction process. 

Modelers who have built before may 

have their own favorites. 

A. Knives: 

1. Set of hobby knives with a quantity 

of #ll blades and square and skew 

chisel blades 

2. Box of single edge razor blades 

B. Files: 

1. Set of medium needle files 

2. Combination medium/coarse 

& round/flat rasp 

C. Saws: 

Razor saw set 

D. Clamps: 

1. 6 Small C-clamps 

2. 12 Wooden, spring clothespins 

E. Sandpaper: 

Assortment of grits from 100 to 240 

F. Boring Tools: 

1. Set of miniature drills, sizes 61-80 

2. A pin vise 

3. Set of miniature reamers 

G. Miscellaneous: 

1. Small hammer 

2. Tweezers 

3. Small fine scissors 

4. Miniature pliers 

a. round nose 

b. square 

c. diagonal cutters 

d. tapered, half-round 

5. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape 

H. Finishing: 

1. Brushes 

a. fine with round and square ends 

b. medium with round 

and square ends 

I. Supplies: 

(will be covered in detail in “Finishing 

the Model” section and throughout 

instructions) 

1. Paint 

2. Wood stains 

3. White glue 

4. Super glue 

5. Glazes and stains 

Note: Miniature power tools such as 

drills, sanders and scroll saws will speed 

up some work, but are not necessary to 

construct this kit.

PAINTING & STAINING 

THE MODEL 

It may seem strange to begin an instruction 

manual with directions on applying 

the finishes to the model. Not so! Much 

time and effort can be saved, and a more 

professional result can be obtained, if the 

finishing process is carried out during 

construction. Painting of various small 

parts, masts and spars should be accomplished 

before they are installed on the 

model. Painting sequence must be a well 

thought out procedure, otherwise you 

may have difficulty as you proceed with 

assembly. For example, it is easier to 

paint a deckhouse or hatch coaming before 

it is glued to the deck. Put the parts 

aside until they are ready to be installed. 

Proper timing in the application of finishes 

and the use of masking tape to define 

painted edges should eliminate unsightly 

glue marks and splotchy stained surfaces. 

In the end, following these general 

suggestions will be to your advantage. 

Your first decision should be to determine 

how “finished” you want the model 

to be. A more authentic scheme will require 

the finishing of internal bulwarks, 

railings, transom, mast tops and doublings 

and deck furniture. This would entail 

using the following color scheme: 

1. Red: internal bulwarks, gunport 

edges, oarport edges, hatch coamings, 

companionway coamings, gun carriages, 

pumps, windlass supports, bitts, inside 

gunport lids. 

2. Black: mast tops, mast doublings, cap 

rail, main wale, outside ship’s boat, transom, 

bowsprit to doubling, spars, gaffs, 

booms and outside gunport lids. Metal 

parts such as gun barrels, anchors, cleats 

and rings can be finished with metal 

blackener or painted. 

3. Yellow or gold: beak supports and 

structure, name lettering 

4. Stains: Oak – deck planking, cabins 

and companionways; 

Dark Walnut – external hull, keel, stem, 

sternpost, inside ship’s boat, rudder; 

Natural Pine – unpainted mast sections 

To achieve an “all natural look” finish 

would require that most parts of the 

model be stained Dark Walnut, except 

for the deck, which should be stained in 

Oak. But even with this natural type 

look, a more attractive finish could be obtained 

by painting the cap rail and wale 

black. This would accent the lines of the 

hull. The hardware, guns, etc. could be 

left bright or blackened. Hatch coamings 

could revert to the Dark Walnut stain. 

Remember, each captain had his preferences 

and painted accordingly. You will 

be the captain of your ship and can do 

the same. 

Staining & Painting Techniques 

The following techniques will improve 

whichever finish you choose: 

1. Stains should be applied to the part before 

mounting. This will eliminate any 

interference by glues that may be present 

on the surface. It will also prevent the 

bleeding of one stain color into another 

on an adjacent surface. 

2. Paints should be applied to any part 

that will abut a surface which is to be a 

different color or stain. This will be particularly 

useful when joining the inner 

bulwark planking and the waterways 

with decking surface, and when mounting 

wales and the cap rail which are a 

different color than the hull or bulwarks. 

This step completely eliminates the need 

for masking or carefully painting a line. 

Some touch-up may be required, but it 

will be much easier than cutting an entire 

line. Beyond the parts or strakes that define 

different finishes, the painting 

can be done on the model. 

If the parts are pre-finished as suggested, 

any differences in gloss or glue marks 

will be eliminated by the application of a 

final overcoat of glaze or varnish. Whenever 

possible, surfaces to be painted 

should be placed horizontally to eliminate 

“runs” which will ruin the finish. 

Pointed brushes are best used for detail 

work and the flats will work best on the 

larger areas. Do not “build up” paint as it 

will hide structural details and could 

possibly chip while handling during construction. 

Detailed painting is best accomplished 

by steadying the hand 

against the work or other surface and 

only using the finger movements to 

apply the brush strokes. 

Only paints developed for model work 

should be used as they have the finer pigments 

which will not take away from 

surface details. Whenever possible, use 

standard colors as mixed by the manufacturer. 

This will allow a better match of 

color when going from one container to 

another. 

General finishing techniques require that 

any finish should set at least 24 hours before 

applying an additional coat or other 

treatment. (Each manufacturer will have 

a recommendation on drying and setting 

times for their products.) 

7

FIG. 1 

FIG. 3 FIG. 5 

A bulkhead marked and ready for assembly to the 

false keel. 

FIG. 2 

Deck plate mounting held with clothespins. 

FIG. 4 

Bow blocks shaped. Black line is black tape defining 

chamfered width of false keel. 

FIG. 6 

Bulkhead and false keel assembly. 

Bow blocks mounted. 

Stern blocks mounted. 

8 

STAGE A 

BUILDING THE HULL ASSEMBLY 

The Hull Assembly of any model represents 

75% of the job. Besides serving as 

the support platform for the masts and 

rigging, most attention given by the observer 

will be directed toward the hull 

lines and deck details. For these reasons, 

the hull framework should be constructed 

with precision, creating a sturdy, true 

and perfectly symmetrical showpiece. 

The Prince de Neufchatel hull frame is 

made up of 22 bulkheads, a one-piece 

false keel and a deck plate. They are all 

laser cut to close tolerances, allowing a fit 

that should not require any additional 

fixtures for alignment when properly assembled. 

Extensive use of horizontal waterlines 

and vertical centerlines on these 

parts are a great help in establishing 

what will be the basis for all subsequent 

construction. 

1. Bulkhead & False Keel 

Preparation: 

The bulkheads are cut from 1/8”-thick 

plywood and are sequentially identified 

“A” to “V” from bow to stern (see figure 

1). Each of them has shaped extensions 

above the deck line to define the height 

of the bulwarks and they are grooved to 

fit over the 3/16”-thick false keel piece. 

(Bulkhead “O” does not extend above the 

deck so as to prevent interference with 

the gunport openings.) The pre-cut bulkheads 

have the deck camber cut in. 

Check the keel grooves for an accurate fit 

over the false keel. If too small, they 

should be widened equally about the 

centerline. Before mounting to the keel, 

label and mark each bulkhead with a vertical 

centerline and a horizontal line perpendicular 

to the centerline and through 

the deck crown at the bulwarks. 

Next, check all bulkhead grooves of the 

3/16”-thick plywood false keel to ascertain 

that they will accept the 1/8”-thick 

bulkheads. The depth of the grooves 

should allow each bulkhead to sit with its 

center flush with the top of the false keel 

piece (see figure 2). Vertical lines should 

be drawn to establish bulkhead alignment 

on the keel piece at the forward 

side of each bulkhead groove. 

Note: all groove fits should be close, but 

not bind or allow excess movement. 

2. Frame Assembly: 

Starting from either the bow or stern, sequentially 

glue the bulkheads into place 

(see figure 2). The center of each bulkhead 

should be aligned with the center of 

the keel piece, and the horizontal line on 

each bulkhead must be set perpendicular 

to the vertical side of the keel piece. This 

can be checked with a small square. The 

bulkhead should also be at a 90-degree 

angle to the keel piece. Sequential mounting 

is necessary to allow use of the 

square for each bulkhead alignment. 

Bulkheads can be held with white glue 

and clamped with clothespins. When 

properly aligned, the joint can be set by 

wicking in slow-set cyanoacrylate glue. 

A note on glues: White glues are slower 

setting and tolerant to parts adjustments. 

They tend to fill wood porosity, and this, 

along with their moisture content, provides 

a stronger bond when an additional 

application of cyanoacrylate glue is 

combined (for joints that need it). For 

more delicate assembly work, this combination 

of glues is not recommended, 

since some filleting may occur and the 

white glue does not always dry clear. 

A note on hull symmetry: Eyeballing– 

Even though you have carefully marked 

and set each bulkhead square on the false 

keel, keep eyeing the entire assembly 

from stern to bow to assure that no twist 

has set in that would result in a warped 

deck or cocked transom mounting. 

3. Deck Plate Mounting: 

The sub-deck plate of 1/32”-thick laser 

cut aircraft grade plywood is the next 

item to be installed to the hull framework 

(see figure 3). Draw a centerline on the

FIG. 7a 

FIG. 7b 

Good 

Plank 

BHDS 

Bevel too great could 

leave as is but better to 

add wedge and re-sand 

Hump–sand 

to dotted line 

and recheck 

Good 

Stern blocks shaped. 

Chamfering of the bulkhead edges. 

FIG. 8 FIG. 9 

Shows after-end of stern blocks which are left 

square until transom is installed. 

First strake of under-planking at deckplate level. 

deck plate from bow to stern. The bulkhead 

slots should also have lines drawn 

across the deck plate connecting them 

from port to starboard. These notches are 

deep enough to clear the bulkhead extension 

above the deck line. Check their 

widths for an accurate fit of the bulkhead 

thickness. Widen if too tight, but DON’T 

OVERWIDEN THESE SLOTS!!! They accurately 

position the bulkheads and 

straighten any curvature that may be present 

in the false keel piece. The fit of 

these slots should be equal to the snug fit 

of the keel to bulkhead joints. 

The deck plate can be held down to the 

deck camber by using clothespins at the 

edges of the bulkheads. Be sure the deck 

plate centerline is on the center of the 

false keel and the mast holes are over the 

mast grooves in bulkheads “E” and “N.” 

Small nails can be used to hold the plate 

in place on the top of the false keel. 

White or cyanoacrylate glue is then 

wicked into the joint of the bulkheads 

and the underside of the deck plate. 

4. Bow & Stern Blocks: 

When the deck plate is set, bow and stern 

blocks of medium grade balsa are fitted 

(see figures 4 and 6). As sized, the grain 

of the bow blocks must run fore and aft, 

and the grain of the stern blocks must 

run vertically. Surfaces of these blocks 

have to be chamfered* (see figures 5 and 

7a). This will allow a snug fit into the corners 

formed by the deck plate, false keel 

and bulkhead “A” at the bow; and bulkhead 

“V” at the stern. 

*Note: Chamfering means to cut or bevel 

the corner at an inclined angle for working 

the wood to a particular shape. 

5. Bulkhead Edge Chamfering: 

The bulkhead edges have to be chamfered 

to properly accept the under planking 

and give a true look to the hull (see figure 

7b). The Prince de Neufchatel hull does not 

require extensive work in this area. The 

bulkheads that require the most chamfering 

are “A, B, C, D, E, & F” at the bow 

and “P, Q, R, S, T, U & V” at the stern. 

The ten amidships from “G” to “O” can 

have square edges. To maintain the hull 

shape, the after corners of the bow bulkheads 

and the forward corners of the 

stern bulkheads to be chamfered should 

be marked with a pen or pencil. When 

chamfering, these corners should never 

disappear. The bulkhead thickness of 

1/8” was selected to allow ease of chamfering, 

as well as provide a greater number 

of bulkheads for a better hull line. 

The best tools for chamfering this model 

are files. Flats can be used on the convex 

edges and rounds are the better choice for 

the concave edges at the stern. For these 

narrower bulkheads, knife cuts should 

not be required. When proceeding with 

the chamfering, you will find that the 

bow and stern blocks will be altered to 

maintain a true hull line all the way to the 

stem and stern post lines. This work will 

test your ability to set a fair curve line on 

the hull. It can only be done well with patience. 

Practice helps, but this may be 

your first try ... so, easy does it! 

The last chamfering to be done is the 

shaping of the false keel piece from bulkhead 

“D” to the bow and bulkhead “P” 

to the stern (see figures 5 and 8). Chamfer 

the false keel from its original 3/16” 

thickness to 1/8” thickness all the way to 

the deck plate at the bow and to the stern 

block at the stern. This tapering will accommodate 

the walnut stem, keel and 

sternpost pieces which will be added before 

applying the final hull planking. 

6. Bulwark Plate Fitting 

& Mounting: 

The frame is now ready for the first strake 

of under-planking that is required to properly 

fit the bulwark plates (see figure 9). 

It is 1/16” x 3/16” basswood that will also 

be used for the under-planking of the lower 

hull. Mount it even with the top edge of 

the deck plate from bow to stern. It can be 

held in place at each bulwark with small 

nails and glue. Spring clamps will work 

best at the bow. (Wet forward ends of 

these strips to ease bending at the bow.) 

9

FIG. 10 

FIG. 12 FIG. 14 

Bulwark plate clamped in position to determine 

bottom edge line. 

FIG. 11 

Clamping at stern showing variety of clamps that 

can be used to hold hull flair curvature. 

FIG. 13 

The transom plate looking inboard aft. 

Bulwark plate clamped during gluing. 

Starboard bulwark plate mounted. 

10 

The bulwark plates are laser cut from 

1/32” plywood. These pieces have the 

gunport and oarport openings cut into 

them (see figure 10). The bow, stern and 

bottom sides have been left oversized to 

allow fitting to the framework you have 

built. The top edge has been accurately 

shaped to the top bulwark line. The gunport 

openings are cut slightly undersize 

to allow proper sizing to the gunport 

frames which will be mounted later. The 

first thing to do is establish which are the 

lower edges of the bulwark plates. 

The gunport openings will help. They are 

numbered 1 through 11 from bow to 

stern. Gunports 5 and 11 should be centered 

vertically between bulkhead extensions 

“I” and “J” and “T” and “U” respectively. 

The top edge of the bulwark 

plate has to be 25/32” from the top of the 

deck plate at bulkhead “T” and 31/32” at 

bulkhead “I.” An additional height check 

can be made at bulkhead “A.” It should 

be 13/16.” With the bulwark plates set at 

these dimensions and clamped in place, a 

line should be drawn inboard along the 

bulwark plate at the top of the deck plate. 

The bulwark plate can be removed and 

cut to this line, which establishes its bottom 

edge for assembly. 

The plates are then remounted to the bulkhead 

extensions with clamps at the proper 

fore and aft, and vertical settings and 

glued in place with slow-set Super glue 

(see figure 11). They should be clamped at 

each bulkhead to be sure they conform to 

the tumblehome and flair curvatures along 

the hull (see figure 12). It can be advantageous 

to glue in the bottom edges before 

clamping to the bulkhead shapes above 

deck. To aid in positioning these bulwark 

plates, you should refer to the plans and 

use the following table as a guide (Also ... 

the bow ends tend to flair upward and 

should be held firmly in place): 

Bulkhead Top edge above deck plate 

A................................13/16” 

B....................................“ 

C................................27/32” 

D..................................7/8” 

E................................ 31/32” 

F.....................................“ 

G....................................“ 

H....................................“ 

I......................................“ 

J......................................“ 

K................................15/16” 

L.....................................“ 

M...............................29/32” 

N............................... 27/32” 

O..................................7/8” 

P.....................................“ 

Q................................27/32” 

R....................................“ 

S.................................13/16” 

T................................ 25/32” 

U..................................3/4” 

V................................11/32” 

Note: These dimensions are taken along 

the outer curved surfaces of the bulwark 

extensions which are longer than 

the vertical height from the edge of the 

deck plate. 

These dimensions are for reference only 

and depend upon the accuracy of the 

deck plate level. A true line is more important 

than an actual conformation to 

any reference dimension. In addition, 

the bulkhead extensions should be 

aligned externally to give a true line to 

the bulwarks (see figure 13). If some are 

below a true line, they should be 

shimmed with 1/8” wide basswood 

stock. Those that may be too “fat” 

should be trimmed down. The 3/16” 

width of these extensions will accommodate 

any trimming easily. Gross 

bumps or indentations are not the intent 

of the ship designer, builder, historian, 

kit designer or modeler. 

7. Transom 

The transom piece is also laser cut from 

1/32” plywood. Its top is cut to the design 

curvature and the gunports are also 

cut as they were in the bulwark plates 

(see figure 14). The bottom and side 

edges have been left longer to allow fitting 

to your assembly. This piece should 

have a vertical centerline drawn on it between 

the gunports.

FIG. 15 

FIG. 17 

Stern blocks filed to the slope of transom. 

Gun and oar port frames amidships. 

FIG. 16 FIG. 18 

Gunport frame clamped at bow. 

1/16” square filler strips amidships. 

Align the transom center with the deck 

centerline and the top edge with the aft 

top corners of the bulwark plates. A line 

drawn across the deck plate will define 

the bottom edge of the transom piece. 

When cut to this line, it can be realigned, 

held with tape and glued in place along 

the bulwark and deck plates. The port 

and starboard edges can then be trimmed 

down flush with the after ends of the bulwark 

plates (see figure 15). 

If your frame assembly is square and 

level from bow to stern, the transom 

will be square if properly aligned. Its 

shape may have to be altered to give 

this squareness and alignment with the 

bulwark plates. If the shape needs to be 

altered, be sure to keep the transom 

symmetrical from port to starboard, as 

nothing shows up with more stigma 

than the transom if it is tilted. 

8. Inner Bulwark Preparation 

Giving the bulwarks the proper thickness 

for support and the framing for any 

openings is the last bulwark detail chore 

to be done before starting the hull surfacing. 

Frames for the gunports and oarports 

have been laser cut from 1/16” plywood. 

The gunport frames are opened to 

the proper size and must be centered 

over the openings cut in the bulwark 

plates. They should be clamped when the 

glue is setting to hold them to the curva- 

ture of the bulwarks (see figure 16). The 

oarport frames are also cut to an accurate 

size and should be glued over their 

matching openings in the bulwark plates. 

The bulwark gunport openings can be 

cut to the inner edges of the gunport 

frames with a #11 blade. The oarport 

openings can be filed to even edges with 

a square miniature file (see figure 17). 

The transom gunports are treated in the 

same manner as the bulwark gunports. 

Any framing that may extend over the 

top of the bulwarks or butt into a bulwark 

extension can be cut to a proper fit. 

These frames establish the bulwark thickness 

but do not control thickness at the 

top and bottom edges. 

For any long top or bottom edge opening 

between the frames, the support for the 

railing and the inner bulwark planking is 

supplied by 1/16” square basswood strip 

stock (see figures 18 and 19). The strips 

mounted at the deck level also provide a 

supporting gusset to the bulwark plates 

when the bulkhead extensions have been 

cut down to the 1/16” thickness at a later 

stage of construction. 

At the bow are additional strips to support 

the inner planking around the curve. 

And at the forward lower end, 1/16”- 

thick plates are added in the area where 

the hawse holes should be drilled 1/8” in 

diameter (see figure 20 and plans). 

FIG. 19 

Filler strips and gunport frames on transom. 

FIG. 20 

Filler strips and hawse pipe plate at bow. 

11

FIG. 21 

FIG. 23 FIG. 25 

Bow under-planking below bulwarks. Bow completely covered with under-planking. Under-planking at stern clamped to false keel. 

FIG. 22 

FIG. 24 

FIG. 26 

Bow under-planking ready for stealers. 

Under-planking faired to false keel. 

Stern under-planking below bulwarks. 

12 

STAGE B 

SURFACING THE HULL ASSEMBLY 

What follows are the steps explaining 

how to properly plank the various areas 

of the hull from the keel up to the bulwarks 

and its railing. This will include 

various finishing requirements for those 

parts of the hull assembly and planking 

which will make finishing a lot less difficult. 

Each step will advise the type of finish 

required for either the painted or “all 

natural look” options. This particular 

hull shape is one of the easiest to plank 

and should cause little difficulty. 

1. Lower Hull Under-Planking 

The first surface to be covered is the 

lower hull below the first planking strake 

and below the bulwark plates (see figures 

21-Bow and 26-Stern). All strakes are 

1/16” x 3/16” basswood and require no 

finish before mounting. The only purpose 

for this planking is to provide a surface 

for the second and final layer of 

planking. For this reason, you can save 

time by not worrying about tapering 

planks toward the bow unless you want 

the practice. All initial applications of 

planking are left full width and allowed 

to take a natural line along the lower hull 

starting initially at the top. 

Other strakes can be laid along the false 

keel bottom even with the 1/8” width 

that was chamfered when the hull frame 

assembly was built (see figure 25-Stern). 

As you work up from the bottom and 

down from the top, there will be tapered 

openings left in the hull areas. These 

openings should be filled with “stealers” 

(“short lengths of plank worked in 

among other strakes to facilitate rounding 

off in parts of great curvature”). 

Stealers were and are still used in the 

planking of life-size ships. These stealers 

can be made as required from the planking 

material (see figures 22-Bow and 27- 

Stern). Doing this step affords the modeler 

additional practice that will be helpful 

when it comes time to apply the final 

planking surface. 

2. Applying Filler 

to the Under-Planking 

When finished with the under-planking, 

apply filler to any small cracks that may 

exist. This will give a uniform surface for 

the next layer (see figure 23-Bow). 

When the glue and filler have set, usually 

overnight, shape the under-hull by filing 

and sanding. Flat files can be used on the 

convex surfaces and rounded files will 

work best on the concave areas. The planking 

must be faired into the 1/8” width of 

the false keel edge (see figures 24-Bow, 28- 

FIG. 27 

Stern under-planking ready for stealers. 

FIG. 28 

Under-planking faired to false keel.

FIG. 29 

FIG. 31 FIG. 33 

Under-planking at amidships, ready for keel and 

final planking. 

Inner final planks clamped into place on bulwarks. 

The inner planks painted on the bulwarks. 

FIG. 30 FIG. 32 

Inner under-planking across transom. Cut-down 

bulkhead extensions can be seen on bulwarks. 

Amidships inner final planking before trimming to gunport openings. 

Stern and 29-Amidships). It should also be 

leveled with the bulwark plates along the 

deck edge. Any nails that have been used 

to hold the planking should be filed off as 

you shape the hull. If not, they can be dug 

out with a pair of fine side-cutters. This 

final shaping should ready the hull for the 

external planking. 

3. Inboard Bulwarks 

The bulwarks located inboard can now 

be prepared for planking. The bulkhead 

extensions above-deck are all 3/16” 

wide. They must be cut down to the gunport 

and oarport thickness of 1/16” (see 

figure 30). This will allow the inboard 

bulwark planking to set properly against 

the various port frames along the inside 

of the bulwark plates. These extensions 

also should be cut flush to the deck plate. 

4. Outer Final Planking 

All outer planking, except for the deck, is 

.021” x 5/32” (.5 x 4 mm) walnut. The 

deck planking is 1/32” x 1/8” basswood. 

To avoid glue marks, all of these strips 

should be finished first before mounting. 

Stain the walnut planking “walnut” and 

the basswood deck strips “oak.” The 

wale is made from 1/16” x 3/16” (1.5 x 5 

mm) walnut and also should be stained 

“walnut.” This prepares all of the external 

planking for mounting regardless of 

your choice of finishes. 

5. Planking the Inner Bulwarks 

Because of the optional choice of painting, 

the inner bulwarks must be planked first. 

Planking strakes are applied from the 

deck plate upwards (see figure 31). Planking 

should be sized to the edges of the 

gunports, but can be run across the oarports, 

which are better opened after 

planking is completed (see figure 32). 

When the inner planking is done, open all 

ports and even up the edges (see figure 

33). The inner bulwarks and port edges 

should be painted now before the outer 

bulwark planking is started. If using the 

“all natural look” finish, the port edges 

should be stained at this point. 

6. Outboard Final Planking 

Outboard planking begins with the wale 

(see figure 34). It should be mounted 

with its top edge even with the bottom of 

the bulwark plate. If you are going to 

paint, the wale should be painted in 

place on the hull before continuing with 

the final planking. The wale is carried 

across the stern at deck level and this also 

should be painted if desired. 

7. Stern Final Planking 

Final planking starts at the stern, beginning 

first with the wale and continuing 

up to the top of the bulwarks (see figure 

35). Cut all strakes at the gunports, but 

FIG. 34 

The wale painted black. Inner bulwarks paint can 

be seen around edges of gunports. 

FIG. 35 

Outer transom final planking. 

13

FIG. 36 

FIG. 39 

Final planking of bulwarks amidships above wale. 

FIG. 37 

FIG. 38 

The keel amidships with one of the strengthening 

finishing nails showing. 

FIG. 40 

14 

Three laser-cut stem pieces. 

cover the oarports (see figure 36). The 

oarports are to be opened after final 

planking is complete, just as they were 

after the first layer of planking. 

8. Lower Hull Final Planking 

Before beginning the final planking of the 

lower hull, mount the keel, stern post 

and stem pieces to the false keel (see figures 

37 and 38). They are wider than the 

keel pieces, which will provide the rabbet 

(groove to receive plank edges) needed 

for planking at the bow and stern. These 

parts should be stained “walnut” before 

mounting. The keel piece should be 

nailed to the bottom of the false keel in 

addition to using glue (see figures 39 and 

40). Larger finishing nails can be used 

here, but to prevent the keel from splitting, 

drill holes for the nails before driving 

them into the wood. 

The stem mounted to the false keel. 

9. Creating Batten Lines 

on the Lower Hull 

For the hull below the wale to achieve a 

scale-like appearance, that area should be 

divided into three sections by battens before 

laying the final planking (see figure 

41). This procedure is described in the 

Planking Manual (included in the kit). 

Since there is already a hull surface provided 

by the first layer of planking, narrow 

strips of chart tape can be substituted 

for wooden battens. They will be easier 

to work around. After creating the batten 

divisions, plank the upper and lower 

sections first, then finish with the center 

section (see figure 42). 

10. Plank Tapering For the Hull 

The Neufchatel hull allows the simplest 

plank tapering. From amidships to the 

bow, each strake is tapered from its full 

width down to 1/16” (see figure 43). It is 

best to do this tapering off the ship on full 

length strips. From amidships aft, all 

planks are left full width, and stealers will 

be required (see figures 44, 45 and 46). 

All planking can be attached with a thin 

layer of white glue to hold the tougher 

areas. Those planks which curve around 

the bow should be soaked in water and 

held to a form, such as a jar lid, until they 

dry. This makes the bow planking proceed 

much faster. 

To further improve the scale look, each 

strake should be divided into scalelengths 

of 4” representing approximately 

21 feet. These divisions are best cut after 

each strake is applied, and before the 

next is set into place. In total, there 

should be 21 strakes from keel to wale. 

Refer to the Planking Manual for the 

proper spacing of plank “ends” from 

strake to strake. Strake ends tucked into 

the rabbet at bow and stern will give a 

The stern post and the shape of the after-end 

of the keel. 

FIG. 41 

Batten lines created on the lower hull with tape. 

FIG. 42 

Final planking on the lower hull.

FIG. 43 

FIG. 45 FIG. 47 

Final planking on bow showing tapering. 

Final planking on stern nearly completed. 

Start of deck final planking showing guide strip 

on centerline. 

FIG. 44 FIG. 46 

FIG. 48 

Final planking on the lower stern showing the first 

stealer position. 

Final planking amidships. 

A method of forming cap rail strips. 

very realistic appearance. For those with 

more ambition, treenails* can be added to 

the butt ends of the planks. 

When hull final planking is completed, 

another coat of stain will even out the 

finish. 

*Treenails are easily made from round tapered 

toothpicks which can be glued into 

any size hole and clipped off. Smoothing 

of the surface may require refinishing. 

11. Deck Final Planking 

Returning to above deck, the oak stained 

basswood strips will be used to cover the 

deck base plate. A first strake should be 

laid full length down the center line of 

the hull (see figure 47). Be sure to drill 

small holes at the mast openings or they 

will be lost as the planking continues. 

The next planks will fill the areas between 

hatch and cabin openings in the 

deck plate. The remainder of the plank 

strips can be cut into 4” lengths to be laid 

in a three-step pattern. Save some strips 

to make those planks which may require 

a little longer length to fill an area. (No 

real deck would ever have a one or two 

foot long plank. Once again, you eager 

beavers can add treenails if desired.) The 

deck should be planked right out to the 

bulwarks, but does not require an exact 

fit at the edges, since this joint will be 

covered by the waterway. 

The waterway is made of 1/4-round 

stock and should be painted red or 

stained “walnut” before mounting. It 

should be soaked and curved at the bow 

end before finishing and mounting. It 

will run the length of the bulwarks and 

across the stern. 

12. The Cap Rail 

To maintain a smooth curvature, the cap 

rail around the top of the bulwarks is 

made from 5/64” x 5/64” ( 2 x 2 mm) 

walnut strip stock. The cap rail is three 

strips wide with the middle centered on 

the bulwark top. 

Those portions of the rail stripping that 

cover the bow should be soaked and set 

around a form to dry (see figure 48). All 

strips should be finished before mounting 

(see figure 49). The painted version 

should be done in black and the “all natural 

look” stained “walnut.” 

The first rail strip to be mounted is the 

center strip. To it, the inner and outer 

strips are applied (see figure 50a). Top 

corner edges should be rounded and the 

top smoothed. Next, refinish the cap rail 

in the areas that were sanded. For detail, 

you can cut scarf lines every twenty 

scale-feet or so. (For those who are using 

the “all natural look” finish, pick rail 

strips that are alike in color.) 

This completes the Basic Hull Assembly. 

FIG. 49 

Bow cap rail strips ready for mounting. 

FIG. 50a 

Outer cap rail strips clamped for gluing. 

15

FIG. 50B 

The model on launching ways shown at a more completed stage of construction. 

16 

STAGE C 

MOUNTING THE HULL 

Before proceeding with additional work 

it is best to mount the hull. This step will 

help prevent details from becoming damaged 

during handling and will allow you 

to make any alignments that require a 

true waterline. Proper mounting of the 

hull is very important and will allow the 

accurate building and aligning of the remainder 

of the model. While any modeler 

can devise his own mounting, there 

are two commercial types of mounting 

available to you. 

1. Mounting Board with 

Two Pedestals (not included) 

The first is the traditional mounting 

board with two brass pedestals. This requires 

that holes be drilled through the 

keel into the false keel. The first hole 

drilled for the Prince de Neufchatel should 

be 5 1/2” from the aft end of the keel. 

The second hole should be spaced 8” 

from the first. This spacing, along with 

same sized pedestals, will give a proper 

set to the waterline. A 20” x 4 1/2” walnut 

baseboard will give adequate support. 

Screw holes in the baseboard also 

should be spaced 8” apart on the centerline 

and 6” from either end. 

When drilling the keel for the pedestal 

mounting screws, it is best to clamp 

wood strips on either side of the keel to 

prevent it from breaking out during 

drilling. Any thin walls will be supported 

by the pedestals when they are mounted 

between the keel and the baseboard. The 

screw heads at the bottom of the baseboard 

should be countersunk so they 

won’t protrude, but will instead provide 

a flush surface. 

Be sure to drill the screw holes vertically 

(port to starboard) as they will determine 

the level of the hull abeam. When inserting 

the screws, apply a coating of glue to 

help their holding power in the plywood 

false keel. 

2. Launching Ways 

(included in the kit) 

The second type of mounting that can be 

employed is the launching ways, which 

are most suitable for a model without 

sails (see photo 50b). It is supplied in kit 

form with instructions. Drilling of the 

keel is still required to apply the rods 

that anchor the model to the ways. In addition, 

there have to be hull props for a 

model the size of the Prince de Neufchatel. 

The launching ways are easily assembled 

and should be mounted on a minimal 

board size of 24” x 6.” (Expanding the 

size of the board will allow you to create 

a mini-diorama comprised of boat yard 

ground activity.) To achieve the proper 

waterline level the ways should rise 3/4” 

from stern to bow end over the 24.” 

Note: It is recommended that either 

choice mounting piece be finished before 

mounting the Hull Assembly into place. 

During mounting, be sure that the rails of 

the hull are level with the mount. Future 

alignments, especially the masting, will 

be gauged from this base. 

STAGE D 

DECK FURNITURE 

The Baltimore Clippers of the War of 1812 

were rather hastily built and had only a 

single weather deck. Because of this 

arrangement, only the most essential 

structures were incorporated in order to 

create the least interference with armament 

and larger crews. From bow to 

stern, the Prince de Neufchatel provided a 

fore grid platform with belaying pins aft 

at rail level, cat heads for ground tackle, 

bowsprit bitts, a focs’l (pronounced 

fokes’l which is the forecastle or forward 

deck popularly known as the space below 

cabin for crew) companionway, a simple 

anchor windlass with support bitts, galley 

hatch, amidships cargo hatch and a smaller 

winch forward of the mainmast (see

FIG. 51 

FIG. 53 FIG. 55 

Basic blocks created for deck furniture, hatches 

and cabins. 

FIG. 52 FIG. 54 

Galley hatch with stack on forward deck. 

Completed cabin and tiller aft. Open gunport lids 

can be seen. 

Forward companionway in place. 

Main hatch, pumps, aft hatch and basic cabin assembly (from right to left). 

figure 51). Aft of the main mast are the 

bilge pumps, a smaller loading and ventilating 

hatch and a main cabin with a companionway 

forward of the tiller. 

This section will also include fabrication 

of the gunport lids, channels with deadeyes 

and chain plates, and the belaying 

pin racks inboard abeam the fore and 

main masts. 

When assembling and mounting these details 

all finishing, paint or stain, should be 

applied before any glue touches the wood. 

1. Bowsprit & Bitts 

At the very bow an opening must be cut 

to accept the bowsprit which is nominally 

1/2” in diameter. The bitts should be 

assembled and mounted aft of it (Figures 

56 and 60 show these details at more 

completed stages of construction). These 

bitts, as well as others, should be pinned 

into the deck using the small brass nails 

provided. Insert the nails into the feet of 

the bitts, cut off the nail heads, leaving a 

portion of the shaft, and mount them into 

holes which have been drilled into the 

deck. The bowsprit may be mounted at 

this time. 

2. Forward Companionway 

The forward companionway is created 

with a balsa block set into the most forward 

opening of the deck (see figure 52). It 

should be planked with the .021” x 5/32” 

walnut planks. Trim the vertical corners 

with the 3/32” basswood angle and the 

base with 5/64” square walnut. Fashion 

the top out of two strips of walnut using 

brass strips to represent the hinges. 

3. Windlass Bitts (Fore & Main) 

Mount these upright supports in the 

same manner as the bowsprit bitts (see 

figure 56 for fore windlass bitts, and figure 

60 which shows catheads and rail 

bitts at the bow). 

4. Hatches (Galley, Main & Aft) 

All three deck hatches are constructed in 

the same manner (see figures 53 and 54). 

Cut 1/8”-thick basswood to fit each 

hatch opening in the deck. Paint them 

black and assemble grid strips to fit and 

glue onto the plate. This assembly should 

then be set, leveled and glued into the 

appropriate deck opening. The stained 

grid with the black backing gives a look 

of depth. Surround each of the deck 

hatches with a coaming of 1/16” x 1/4” 

basswood; either stained or painted. 

Note: The galley hatch is located aft of 

the foremast and has added detail in the 

form of a galley stack (see figure 53). 

Cover the hatch’s forward end with a 

solid plank as indicated in the plans and 

mount the stack on it. 

Note: An oddball hatch is located forward 

where the port and starboard rails 

meet. Use the grid as before and cut the 

hatch to shape. Mount 9 belaying pins in 

the after side and glue into place (see 

figure 56). 

5. Main Cabin 

Shape the main cabin from the larger 

balsa block to fit the deck opening. Plank 

it, as well as the sides of the companionway 

and the skylight, with the .021” x 

5/32” walnut (see figure 55). The cabin 

and companionway tops should then be 

covered with the scored sheet. Next, 

paint the top of the skylight black and 

then apply the 1/32” square framing. 

This assembly should then be set into the 

deck and the corners trimmed with angle 

stock. Then place 5/64” square molding 

around the bottom of the cabin at deck 

level. Finally, assemble the companionway 

door using boards slipped into a 

vertical frame with a latch at the top. 

6. Rudder, Mast openings, 

Pump Assemblies 

At the rudder post and mast openings, 

plates of 3/64” (l mm) walnut should be 

mounted (see figures 56 and 57). Mount 

the two pump assemblies at the rear corners 

of the mainmast plate (see figure 54). 

After shaping its post, insert the rudder 

17

FIG. 56 FIG. 57 

Rudder and fittings. “Rivets” are white glue dots 

that were painted black when dry. 

FIG. 58 

Completed outfitted bow with carronades, forward bitts, bow grid and fore windlass. 

Starboard main mast belaying pin rack. Breech 

ropes can be seen on carronades. 

18 

into the opening as indicated. Rudder 

hinges can be made from the 3/32” wide 

brass strip. Form the tiller from the basswood 

strip and mount it to the top of the 

rudder post (see figure 55). 

7. Belaying Pin Racks 

& Channels 

While not actually part of the deck furniture, 

the belaying pin racks and channels 

with their fittings can be mounted at this 

time. The belaying pin racks lay inboard 

beside each of the masts (see figure 58). 

Mount them at the bottom edge of the inboard 

rail overhang. Drill the belaying 

pin holes after mounting the racks. Next, 

position and mount the channels evenly 

with the belaying pin racks on the outboard 

rail overhang. Drill the openings in 

the channels that will eventually accept 

the deadeye/chain plate assemblies. 

Glue the belaying pins into the racks. 

Next, insert the deadeye assemblies 

through the channels (see figure 59). 

They will be pinned to the hull sides, but 

have to be aligned with the mast tops 

first. To simulate this, set false masts into 

the deck and align the chain plates with 

string attached to the proper height on 

the false mast. The chain plates must then 

be anchored with brass nails. Nail these 

into the hull. 

8. Gunport Lids 

Because the hull is securely mounted for 

safe handling, you can now introduce the 

gunport lids without fear of breaking 

them (see figure 59). The gunport lids 

and frames are laser cut pieces with the 

lids located juxtaposed inside the frames. 

Paint the lids red or stain them. Next, 

plank them horizontally with the outer 

hull walnut strip material. Then remove 

the loops from the tops of the brass 

hinges and blacken them. Glue them to 

the lids and paint the outside of the lids 

black. (If you’re doing the “all natural 

look” finish, black hinges only with the 

natural wood is preferred.) 

The aft two port lids may be positioned 

closed, but the remainder forward should 

be left open. Each opened lid is fitted into 

the gunport against the top edge and 

glued perpendicular to the hull surface. 

(Opened gunport lids can be seen in figures 

55 and 56.) 

9. Bow 

The stem is supported by two gussets. 

These are made from 3/64” thick walnut 

shaped to fit the stem and hull. Notice 

how they curve upward toward the end 

of the stem. Next, the catheads are made 

from 5/32” (4 mm) square walnut stock. 

They represent double blocks for the 

ground tackle and should be drilled. 

When at sea, the Prince de Neufchatel did 

not mount a bow decoration, therefore, 

the only trim is the stem framing which 

is made of basswood strip stock. Paint it 

yellow. Finally, the hawse pipes should 

be set into holes drilled into the forward 

bulwark. These will lead the anchor rope 

back to the forward windlass and then 

aft to the same openings in the deck beside 

the forward end of the main hatch 

(see figure 60). 

10. Railing Bitts & Knightheads 

These can be mounted now and the additional 

eyebolts that will be required in 

the rigging will be covered in the rigging 

section (see figure 60). 

11. Armament 

All 16 carronades and 2 long gun assemblies 

should be built, mounted and 

rigged at this time (see figures 61, 62a, 

62b, 62c, 62d and 62e). Carriages should 

be either stained or painted red. The 

Rigging Manual shows complete rigging 

details. Kit supplies only provide eyebolts 

and line for breech ropes. The eyebolts 

should be inserted into drilled 

holes 1/4” outside the edges of each 

gunport. Additional rigging of the guns 

will demonstrate the crowded condition 

of the deck of this ship which was built 

as a fighting machine.

FIG. 59 

FIG. 62b 

Trunnion & 

trunnion cap 

1/4” 

LONG GUN – 2 REQUIRED 

Barrel trunnion 7/16” lg–2 req, 1/16” dia. brass 

Wheel axle 3/4” lg–4 req, 1/16” dia brass 

Carriage side spacers 1/16” x 1/4” x 1/4” lg, basswood– 4 req 

Carriage side 

Axles 

CARRONADE – 16 REQUIRED 

Barrel trunnion 9/16” lg–16 req, 1/16” dia. brass 

Rear wheel axle 1” lg–16 req, 1/16” dia brass 

Front axle 13/16” lg–16 req, 1/16” dia brass 

Carriage side spacers 1/16” x 1/4” basswood– 

shape as shown, 16 each required 

Channel with lower deadeyes and chainplates. 

Gunports are closed. White glue dots are simulated 

“rivets” to be painted. 

5/16” 

1/2” 

GUN CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY 

1. Paint or stain assembled carriage 

2. Barrel with trunnion is set on assembly of carriage 

3. Wheel axle assemblies are mounted 

4. Mount trunnion caps 

FIG. 60 

FIG. 62c 

Rigging placement 

on the carronade 

carriage. 

Breech rope 

Outhaul 

tackle 

Bow detail showing knightheads, catheads, stem 

gussets, rail bitts and hawse pipe. 

Inhaul tackle 

FIG. 61 

FIG. 62d 

Rigging placement 

on the long gun 

carriage. 

Breech line 

Outhaul 

tackle 

Carronade assembly parts. The long gun is similar. 

Inhaul 

tackle 

FIG. 62a 

FIG. 62e 

Assembled carronade carriage. 

Long guns at bow showing crowding of the deck at more completed stage of construction. 

19

FIG. 63a 

FIG. 63b 

1 

Start 

2 3 4 

Rotate 180° Rotate 90° Rotate 180° 

Use a coarse or medium flat file 

Fore mast top assembly with platform. 

FIG. 64 

5 6 7 

8-sided 16-sided Round 

PROPORTIONS FOR TAPERING 

Yard 

Mast 

Gaff and Boom 

1/3 2/3 

Tapering spars and progression of flats. 

Fore top gallant with doubling and cross trees. 

20 

STAGE E 

MAST & SPAR CONSTRUCTION 

All of the parts that make up the masts 

and spars are drawn to full scale with dimensions. 

Each of the individual pieces 

should be cut to length and shaped (see 

figure 63a). They can be easily tapered by 

filing lengthwise, beginning with coarse 

files and progressing to fine files, and 

then sandpaper. Any minor tool marks 

that remain will be in keeping with the 

look of the actual masting which was 

usually hand-shaped along its length. 

When all pieces are shaped they should 

be stained “Natural Pine” before proceeding 

with the assembly. 

1. Assembling the Masts 

When completed, both mast assemblies 

must be built in line from port to starboard 

to allow proper rigging set-up: 

Fore mast: This mast is built up in three 

sections: lower, top and top gallant. They 

should be connected at the doublings by 

mast caps and trestle trees. Cross trees 

also should be added between the top 

and top gallant (see figures 63b, 64 and 

66a). Assemble and position a top platform 

between the lower and top mast. 

This top should be at a 10-degree angle to 

the mast so that it will sit level when the 

mast is mounted to the hull. Both masts 

have a 10-degree rake. 

Main mast: This mast is built up in two 

sections: lower and top mast poles. Connect 

them at the doubling with mast cap 

and trestle trees. Add cross trees to the 

trestle trees. 

When the mast assemblies are completed, 

position and mount the support cheeks 

into place at the doublings as shown in 

the plan (also see figures 65 and 66a). In 

the painted version, all doublings, including 

the caps at the top and the support 

cheeks at the bottom, can be painted 

black. Paint the lower ends of the masts 

red up to the rail level. 

2. Spars & Booms 

Fore course and top spars: These should 

have the studding sail booms attached to 

their outer ends and pinned in place with 

the small brass nails (see plans). Simulate 

the brass bands to give an appearance 

that is to scale. 

All of the spars have jack stays: They are 

made by gluing the small jack stay eyebolts 

into holes drilled in the top of each 

spar. Cut the 1/32” brass rod to length 

and run it through the eyes. Super glue 

or solder into place. The painted version 

requires that all spar assemblies be painted 

black. If using the “all natural look,” 

you may keep the pine finish and paint 

only the jack stays and eyebolts black. 

Boom Assemblies: These require that the 

boom jaws be added. They are made 

from strip stock and are more easily 

shaped after they have been mounted to 

the sides of the booms. The painted version 

requires that all booms be painted 

black. The pine finish may be maintained 

for the “all natural look.” 

3. Fittings 

Deadeyes, blocks, cleats and foot ropes 

can be easily applied before assembling 

and mounting the masting components 

(see figures 66b and 66c). 

Blocks: These can be sturdily mounted 

by inserting the wire strop into a drilled 

hole in the spar, then gluing. Next, simulate 

the scale rope strop and tie. 

Foot ropes: These are made from the fine 

black line and should be sized with Super 

glue to allow them to hold their shape. If 

you choose not to use Super glue, you 

may create the foot ropes from the kit-furnished 

fine black wire. Be sure the wire 

does not become kinked and lose its ropelike 

look. Painting the wire flat black also 

will help it look more to scale. 

Cleats: Paint them black. Position and 

mount as shown in the plans.

FIG. 65 FIG. 66a FIG. 66c 

Lashing 

Spar 

Stirrup 

Foot rope 

Typical foot rope. 

FIG. 67 

A typical doubling with support cheek and 

mast cap. 

Mast assemblies mounted to hull. 

Bowsprit assembly shown mounted. 

4. Bowsprit Assembly 

The last assembly of this construction 

stage is the bowsprit (see figure 67). It is 

made up of three sections: bowsprit, sprit 

mast and sprit pole. Before mounting, 

and if doing the painted version, finish 

them by painting the doublings black. If 

doing the “all natural look” version, 

paint only the ironwork black. The dolphin 

striker will be mounted during the 

rigging process. Next, drill holes vertically 

through the bowsprit assembly for the 

fore stays. The scale lashing of the sprit 

pole to the sprit mast is made with fine 

black line and should be glued into place. 

Eye pins are required on the sides of the 

bowsprit at the after end of the doubling 

to lead the fore stays aft. 

5. Mounting Spars & Booms 

Each spar and boom should be drilled 

and the pins inserted at this time. All pinning 

will be done with the small brass 

nails in a similar fashion to the way the 

bitts were pinned to the deck. Insert the 

pins into the spar or boom ends and cut 

the heads off. The protruding ends eventually 

will be glued into holes in the 

masts. Pin holes also should be drilled in 

the mast assemblies at this time. The 

height of these holes will be determined 

by whether or not you plan to mount 

sails. See spar positions on the plans. 

FIG. 66b 

Block and 

deadeye stropping. 

Note: The spars and booms 

will not be attached to the masts 

until the standing rigging is finished. 

The last holes required are for the spar 

halyards. They should be drilled through 

the mast fore and aft at the height shown 

in the plans. The fore course spar and the 

main top spar do not have halyards, but 

should be hung on slings at a fixed level. 

6. Mounting the Masts 

& Bowsprit 

The bowsprit and two mast assemblies 

must now be mounted to the hull in 

preparation for the standing rigging. This 

is where you will see the benefit of having 

the hull on its base. 

Two Mast Assemblies: Set the hull on a 

level surface and insert the masts into 

Line layered 

over wire 

their respective holes in the deck (see figure 

66a). They should both have a 10-degree 

rake that is provided by the angle of 

the holes in the false keel. If not, shape 

the bases of the mast to allow proper 

rake. It is useful to make a cardboard 

template to help set the masts. They both 

should be set vertically port to starboard 

by measuring to the bottom of the base at 

an equal distance out from each beam to 

any point on the masts. As a further 

check for trueness, the masts should 

align with each other and with the stem. 

Bowsprit: This assembly is set into the 

bitts at its bow opening (see figure 67). 

Looking aft, it should align with both 

masts and be approximately 1/8” above 

the end of the stem. It is now prepared 

for the standing rigging as will be addressed 

in the next stage. 

21

FIG. 68 

FIG. 70a 

Standing rigging at the bowsprit. 

FIG. 69 

Lower shrouds at the main mast. Tackle is attached 

to running back-stay. 

FIG. 71 

Fore-stays shown running up from bowsprit. Tackle and blocks are for jib downhauls and halyards. 

22 

STAGE F 

STANDING RIGGING 

All of the standing rigging is made from 

the black rigging line. The color represents 

the tarred rigging used on life-size 

ships that was permanently anchored to 

support the masts and spars. The kit’s 

heavier line is used on the lower rigging 

and progressively reduces in size as you 

rig upward on the masts. Begin the rigging 

with the bowsprit. 

1. Bowsprit Rigging 

A slot should be made in the stem and 

the heaviest line should be run through 

it and over the bowsprit to form the 

gammoning (lashing). Six turns can be 

taken with the end lashed around the 

center of the turns (see figure 68). The 

bob-stay is a single heavy line running 

from a brass strap on the stem at the waterline 

to an eye at the cap of the 

bowsprit. The dolphin striker has an eye 

in its end which is interlocked with an 

eye at the square tenon of the bowsprit. 

It will also have three cross rods at the 

bottom which will be used to guide the 

various fore-stays back to the hull. 

The martingale is made from a little 

smaller line and should run from the end 

of the sprit pole to the end of the dolphin 

striker. From there it should run port and 

starboard to eyes in the hull just below 

the catheads. 

The sprit spar should be mounted at this 

time by pinning, gluing and lashing it to 

the underside of the bowsprit. Guys 

(steadying or stay-ropes) on either side 

should run back from the end of the sprit 

pole and sprit mast. The two inner ones 

should be tied to the sprit mast and the 

third should run to the end of the sprit 

pole. All should run through eyes at the 

end of the sprit spar and then should be 

tied off in eyes at the front edge of the 

catheads. This completes the bowsprit 

standing rigging. 

2. Fore-stays 

Five fore-stays on the fore mast: The 

three outer stays should run to the 

bowsprit assembly through its block 

holes, down to the dolphin striker, and 

through eyes at the side of the bowsprit 

to the forward pin rail (see figure 69). 

The next inboard fore-stay should run to 

an eye on the port side of the bowsprit 

and back to the pin rail. The last lower 

fore-stay is lashed around the bowsprit 

just ahead of the rail. 

Four fore-stays on the main mast: Each 

fore-stay runs from the main mast to the 

fore mast. All fore-stays should be created 

from progressively finer line as they 

move to the upper mast ends. 

Fore mast with shrouds and fore-stays. 

FIG. 72a 

Fore mast upper shrouds

FIG. 70b 

2 

Wrap mast top 

FIG. 70c 

Shroud 

5 

Seize 

shrouds 

close to 

mast 

Lanyard tied 

around shroud 

Start knot 

Upper deadeye 

Tail for 

scale lashing 

Shroud pair 

Lanyard 

Lower deadeye 

Set height 

3 

with crimp 

Lanyard 

1 

Set height 

with lanyard 

Chain plate and 

deadeye strop 

Nailed to hull 

Channel 

Backing link 

4 

Tie second 

lanyard 

Typical shroud pair mounting sequence. 

Deadeye lanyard assembly. 

3. Shrouds 

Lower Shrouds: These should be made 

from the heaviest line and set with deadeyes 

at the channels (see figures 70a, 70b 

and 70c). 

Fore Top Shrouds: These should run 

down to the smaller deadeyes at the edge 

of the top mast (see figures 71 and 72a). 

Fore Top Gallant & Main Top Shrouds: 

These should be run through the ends of 

the cross trees and then tied to eyes so as 

to form all of the upper futtock shrouds. 

Note: All of the shrouds should have ratlines 

tied approximately 3/16” apart (see 

close-up figures 72b and 72c). When finished, 

the back and breast stays can be 

mounted, taking care to make a true run 

if they pass through the shrouds. 

4. Back-stays 

The back-stays are best mounted after 

building the shrouds with their ratlines. 

Breast Stays: This is an oddball rigging 

not employed by ship designers and 

builders for a very long period of time, 

but used on the Prince de Neufchatel. It 

should run from the fore top mast to the 

small deadeye lashing on the channels 

abeam the fore mast. It also should be 

mounted after finishing the shrouds. 

5. Lifts 

The main and fore royal spars and the 

fore top gallant spar will all have black 

line rigged lifts. These will be mounted 

as the running rigging is made. 

This completes the standing rigging and 

unless you are planning sails, the next 

stage on running rigging will 

complete your model. 

Start methods 

FIG. 72b 

Rat line 

1 

2 

3 

(Left shrouds) 

(All shrouds to right) 

Tying ratline knots. 

Shrouds 

cont. 

Two back-stays on the fore mast: 

Located one on each side, they should be 

rigged to deadeyes on the channels. 

Three back-stays on the main mast: 

They are located port and starboard and 

should run with tackle attached to the 

rail and then be belayed at the after belaying 

rack. This tackle is the only light 

line used for the standing rigging. 

FIG. 72c 

Method of tying 

ratlines to shrouds. 

Ratlines 

cont. 

23

FIG. 72d 

Line tied 

to pin 

FIG. 73c 

Making rope coils. 

Wrap tweezer handle 

Twist coil, glue 

and wrap at center 

Glue over 

belaying pins 

FIG. 73a 

Fore mast 

FIG. 73b 

Mast 

Stay 

Stay 

Fore 

Aft 

Wire 

rings 

Fore 

Halliard 

Aft 

Wire 

rings 

Halliard 

Downhaul 

Sheets 

Bowsprit 

Jib sail mounting. 

Downhaul 

Stay sail mounting 

Sheets 

Main gaff and driver boom with lifts, downhaulers, 

driver boom sheets and flag halyard. 

24 

STAGE G 

RUNNING RIGGING 

The running rigging are lines which 

control the setting of the sails and the 

positioning of the spars for maneuvering 

the ship. Since the lines are reeved 

through blocks and their positioning is 

meant to be actively changed, they are 

made up of supple untarred ropes. To 

simulate the ropes, all of the running 

rigging on the model is made up of various 

sized tan lines. 

The only rigging described in this section 

is that which is left on the ship when the 

sails are removed. A Key to Rigging is 

provided in the next section of this instruction 

manual. 

Remember: All of the spars and booms 

have to be mounted to the masts before 

this rigging can be started. Each of the 

spars should be pinned and glued into 

the masts and lashed with black line. 

As with the standing rigging, all of the 

running rigging lines should become 

smaller in diameter as they are worked 

upward on the masts. The rigging should 

also begin inboard to allow fingers and 

tools the room to lash and tie. As you are 

rigging, be sure to save all of the cut ends, 

as they will be made into rope coils for 

mounting over the belaying pins (see figure 

72d). All lines initially should be tied 

only at the belaying points to avoid interference 

with each subsequent connecting 

of a line. When all lines are in place as required, 

they may then be glued. 

Note: Although in most cases it is advisable 

to work the lines on the ship from 

top to bottom to avoid tangling the lines, 

some lines are best rigged by starting 

from the belaying point and working 

backwards. 

Important: Before starting to rig, be sure 

to mount any remaining blocks or fittings 

that are attached to the stays or other 

standing rigging lines. For the Prince de 

Neufchatel, these are the blocks on the 

fore stays through which the yard braces 

are reeved on their way to the deck and 

belaying pins. But all is not lost if some 

fittings have been overlooked; you can 

always add them as you rig, but your 

mounting access will be more restricted. 

1. Jib Sails 

The downhauls and halyards should run 

parallel to the fore stays (see figures 69 

and 73a). Without the sails, the tackles 

are extended nearly to the bowsprit, so 

the downhauls should be reeved through 

blocks lashed to the bowsprit, and then 

belayed aft. The halyards should be 

reeved through blocks on the mast and 

belayed below. 

FIG. 75a 

Fore gaff rigging is similar to that of main gaff.

FIG. 74 

FIG. 76 

Main gaff peak halyard. 

FIG. 75b 

Mast 

Spar 

Close-up showing spar lashing pinned to mast. 

Fore course spar. Triple block group is for clew garnet, sheet, and tack. 

FIG. 75c 

To spar 

Fall 

Belaying pin 

Deck 

Spar halyard rigging. 

Mast 

Spar 

halyard 

2. Stay-Sails 

These are between the two masts and 

rigged similar to the jib sails (see figure 

73b). However, the halyards and downhauls 

are reaved through blocks at opposite 

ends of the main fore-stays and taken 

to the deck for belaying. Once again, with 

the sails removed, the tackle should be 

extended forward along their respective 

stays. 

3. Gaffs 

The two gaff spars require peak and 

throat halyards and downhaulers (see 

figure 73c). Theoretically, with the sails 

off, the driver gaff on the main mast 

should be lowered to the driver boom, 

but the model has much more interest 

with the gaff in the raised position. The 

peak halyard riggings run between the 

gaffs and the masts and are belayed 

below (see figures 74 and 75a). 

4. Driver Boom 

Two rigs, the boom lifts and the driver 

sheets, are used on this spar (see plan 

sheet P-004 and figure 73c). They work 

together, one lifting and the other tightening 

to hold the boom in position on the 

model. 

The boom lifts are tackle which are tied 

to the end of the boom with the falls 

being rove through single blocks on the 

port and starboard sides of the main top. 

These falls should then be run to the rail 

where they get belayed. 

The sheets are port and starboard tackle 

running between single blocks on the 

boom and single blocks mounted on the 

waterways even with the cleats on the cap 

rail. The falls are belayed to the cleats. 

5. Spars 

All of the spars have essentially the same 

rigs and require lashing to the masts (see 

figure 75b). Each spar requires lifts and 

braces. With the exception of the fore 

course and main top, all get halyards. Between 

spars should be the clews and 

sheets, which control the sails when they 

are mounted. 

Halyards: Staying inboard, rig the halyards. 

They should be lashed to the center 

of the spars, reeved through the fore and 

aft mast holes and stropped to single 

blocks. The halyard extending to the deck 

should also be reeved through these 

blocks (see figure 75c). It should then be 

attached to an eye on one channel and belayed 

on the opposite side. These halyards 

should alternate belaying points from port 

to starboard and from spar to spar. 

Fore Course & Main Top Spars: These 

should be fixed in height and supported 

by slings around the mast or top (see fig- 

25

FIG. 77a 

FIG. 78 

The end of the fore course spar. 

FIG. 77b 

Lower mast 

Lower yard 

Rigging between fore course and fore top spars. 

FIG. 79 

Single blocks 

Sheet 

(from bulwark 

to waterway) 

Clew-garnet 

(to fife rail) 

Aft 

Fore 

Tack 

(from & to cat head) 

Coarse sail rigging. Fore shown. Main is similar. (As shown on plan without sail.) 

Main top gallant and royal spars. 

26 

ure 76, and figure 77a which shows sheet, 

clew, lifts and stuns’l spar). Mount the 

lifts next. They are simple black lines that 

should be mounted on the three upper 

spars of the fore and main masts. The 

fore top and course spars should have 

tackle running between the ends of the 

spars and single blocks at the top above. 

They should then be belayed at deck 

level and tensioned to hold the spars 

level port to starboard (see figures 78, 79 

and 80). 

Clews & Sheets: Rig the clews and sheets 

between spars as shown on the plans, 

which indicate positioning with or without 

sails (see also figures 77b for clew 

garnet without sails, 81a for clew garnet 

with sails, 81b and 81c). All spars should 

be belayed at the deck and usually near 

each other. On the course, the clew becomes 

the “clew garnet,” and since there 

is no spar below it for the corners of the 

course sail, the clew block should be clustered 

with two other blocks for rigging 

the course sheet and tack (see figure 81a). 

These should be belayed fore and aft on 

the bulwarks and catheads. With sails, 

these clusters would be at the corner of 

the course sail. 

Braces: These hold the spar positions 

abeam and are last to be rigged (see figure 

81d and figure 81e). Without sails, the 

spars should be square. With sails, the 

spar positioning is set according to the 

tack you decide to establish for your ship. 

6. Ground Tackle 

This is the tackle used to lift the anchors to 

the catheads (see figure 82a). The anchors 

can be lashed to the forward channels, 

dropped to the launching way surface ,or 

simply hung from the catheads. Double 

blocks with hooks should hold the anchor 

ring and the tackle should run through 

simulated blocks (holes drilled into the 

catheads), and then belayed at the cleats 

atop the catheads. (You purists could inset 

sheaves into the ends of the catheads.) 

7. Flag Halyard 

The flag halyard should be mounted aft 

(see figure 73c). If you like, you may curl 

the flag (as if it were waving in the 

breeze) by wrapping it carefully around a 

dowel (see figure 82b). When finished, 

lightly glue it to a convenient part of the 

halyard rigging to hold its position. 

8. Ship’s Boat 

A 5” Typical Ship’s Boat kit is included 

with your Neufchatel kit. Unless you’re 

“building” sails, construct and mount it 

next. Put it over the main hatch supported 

on cradles made from scrap wood. Tie 

it down to four eyebolts in the deck (see 

figure 83). 

FIG. 80 

Rigging at the fore top gallant spar. 

FIG. 81a 

Course 

sail 

Sheet (aft) 

Tack 

(forward) 

Lower mast 

Lower yard 

Clew-garnet 

(to fife rail) 

Looking forward, portside: 

Course sail rigging as built and rigged with sail. 

Note: blocks a, b, c, d are the same as “m”.

FIG. 81b 

Top gallant mast 

FIG. 81c 

Top gallant mast 

Lift 

Top gallant 

yard 

Lift 

Halliard 

Top gallant yard 

Clew 

Clew 

Top 

gallant 

sail 

Sheet 

Lift 

Halliard 

Top yard 

Top mast 

Lift 

Sheet 

Top sail 

Halliard 

Top mast 

Top yard 

Lower mast 

Lower top 

Lower mast 

Lower top 

Looking aft: Top and top gallant yard rigging as shown on plan without sails. 

(Same on fore, main and mizzen.) Note: a) All blocks are single; b) Rigging is 

the same between top yard and coarse sail lower yard. 

Looking forward: Top and top gallant yards raised for mounting top and 

top gallant sails. (Same on fore, main and mizzen.) 

Note: a) Sail heads are lashed to yards; b) Lower corners are tied to sheets at 

corner blocks; c) top sail rigging is the same as top gallant sail, but between 

top yard and lower yard; d) block letters a, b, c, d, e, f and g are same as “o.” 

FIG. 81d 

FIG. 82a 

FIG. 82b 

1. Trace flag on foil 

use hard pencil. 

2. Paint design with 

acrylics. 

Shows braces between spars. 

Ground tackle and anchors. 

FIG. 81e 

FIG. 83 

3. Turn over and paint 

over score. 

4. Dry brush glaze one 

way and let dry. 

1 

Crimp strop 

tail to stay 

5. Dry brush glaze 

opposite way and let 

dry. Repeat glaze 

both sides. 

2 

Lash with line 

for scale look 

6. Curl foil 

around pencil 

to get flag 

motion. 

Shows block mounting to stay or line for braces. 

Ship’s boat mounted. 

27

28 

Congratulations! This completes 

the construction of your 

“Prince de Neufchatel” model. 

We hope you enjoyed the 

process and are satisfied with 

your finished product. When 

you’re ready to start another 

model, you’ll find many interesting 

and inspiring selections 

waiting for you from Model 

Shipways, Inc. and its sister 

manufacturer–Model Expo, Inc.

KEY TO RIGGING PLAN 

Following is the key to the Plan Sheet belaying pin layout. The belaying order and 

general rigging were developed from references describing the normal practices of 

the period. In general, the higher rigging was belayed further aft and further out. 

Along the belaying pin rails at the bulwarks, the order was: clew line; bunt line; 

leech line. This order was repeated going aft for each higher rigging. It was expected 

that there would be multiple belayings at any pin comprised usually of those lines 

that were released and worked at the same time. As layed out, the belaying pins will 

accept single lines with some spares. If sails are added, the spares will be used up 

and you will have to do a little research on your own. After all lines are belayed, the 

separate rope coils can be added to the belaying points to improve detail (see figure 

50b). Odd number belaying points are to port; and the even to starboard. The belaying 

points are pins, cleats and rail bitts. In order for lines and blocks to properly interface, 

be sure to graduate their sizes from larger to smaller as they are worked upward 

from one mast level to the next. 

Belaying Rigging Description 

Point 

1.......... spare 

2.......... (d) outer fore top gallant stay 

3.......... (a) inner fore top gallant stay 

4.......... spare 

5.......... ground tackle 

6.......... ground tackle 

7.......... spare 

8.......... spare 

9.......... fore course tack 

10........ fore course tack 

11........ inner jib downhaul 

12........ flying jib downhaul 

13........ (c) inner fore topmast stay 

14........ (b) outer fore topmast stay 

15........ spare 

16........ outer jib downhaul 

17........ spare 

18........ spare 

19........ spare 

20........ clew garnet 

21........ clew garnet 

22........ spare 

23........ spare 

24........ fore topsail clew line 

25........ fore topsail clew line 

26........ fore topsail sheet 

27........ fore topsail sheet 

28........ fore top gallant sail clew line 

29........ fore top gallant sail clew line 

30........ fore top gallant sail sheet 

31........ fore top gallant sail sheet 

32........ fore royal sail clew line 

33........ fore royal sail clew line 

34........ fore royal sail sheet 

35........ fore royal sail sheet 

36........ middle upper stay 

sail downhaul 

37........ middle lower stay 

sail downhaul 

38........ inner jib halyard 

39........ outer jib halyard 

40........ flying jib halyard 

41........ fore top spars halyard 

42........ fore top gallant spar halyard 

43........ fore royal spar halyard 

44........ main top gallant spar brace 

45........ main top gallant spar brace 

46........ main royal spar brace 

Belaying Rigging Description 

Point 

47........ main royal spar brace 

48........ fore course spar brace 

49........ fore course spar brace 

50........ fore top spar brace 

51........ fore top spar brace 

52........ fore top gallant spar brace 

53........ fore top gallant spar brace 

54........ fore royal spar brace 

55........ fore royal spar brace 

56........ driver boom topping lift 

57........ driver boom topping lift 

58........ fore gaff downhauler 

59........ fore gaff downhauler 

60........ main royal sail clew line 

61........ main royal sail clew line 

62........ main royal sail sheet 

63........ main royal sail sheet 

64........ main gaff peak halyard 

65........ middle upper stay sail halyard 

66........ middle lower stay sail halyard 

67........ main royal spar halyard 

68........ spare 

69........ spare 

70........ spare 

71........ spare 

72........ main topmast flying back-stay 

73........ main topmast flying back-stay 

74........ spare 

75........ spare 

76........ fore course sail sheet 

77........ fore course sail sheet 

78........ spare 

79........ spare 

80........ main gaff downhauler 

81........ main gaff downhauler 

82........ driver boom sheet 

83........ driver boom sheet 

84........ fore course spar lift 

85........ fore course spar lift 

86........ fore top spar lift 

87........ fore top spar lift 

88........ fore gaff peak halyard 

89........ fore gaff throat halyard 

90........ spare 

91........ main gaff throat halyard 

92........ main topsail halyard 

93........ main topsail downhaul 

29

BIBLIOGRAPHY 

1. Batchelor, John, 

The Naval Gun, 

Blandford press, Dorset, England, 1978 

2. Biddlecombe, Capt. George, R.N., 

The Art of Rigging, 

Marine Research Society, Salem, Massachusetts, 1925. 

3. Chapelle, Howard I., 

American Sailing Ships, 

W.W. Norton & Company Inc., New York, New York, 1975. 

4. Chapelle, 

The Baltimore Clipper, 


5. Davis, Charles G., 

The Built-up Ship Model, 


6. Lavery, Brian, 

The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815, 

Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, Maryland 1987. 

7. Lees, James, 

Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, 

Conway Maritime Press, London, England 1984. 

8. Lever, Darcy, 

Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor, 

Edward Sweetman, New York, New York. 

9. Petrejus, E.W., 

Modeling the Brig Irenee, 

N.V. Uitgeversmasschappi “De Esch,” Hengelo, Holland, 1970. 

10. Steel, 

Mastmaking, Sailmaking & Rigging, 

Edward Sweetman, New York, New York. 

11. Underhill, Harold A., 

Plank on Frame Models, 

Brown, Son & Ferguson, Glasgow, Scotland, 1958. 

NATURE COAST HOBBY SHOP 

Authorized dealer for Model Shipways 

www.naturecoast.com/hobby Toll Free 1-800-714-9478 

30

Instruction Manual - Nature Coast Hobby Shop

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