iWalk 10 Howth - A self-guided walking tour - Visit Dublin

10 Howth
A self-guided walking tour
iWalk
www.visitdublin.com

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the Irish capital is at the very heart of Irish
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Sutton DART Station 4
Sutton Cross 4
Sutton Dinghy Club 4
Entrance to Public Right of Way 5
Martello Tower 5
Sheilmartin Hill 6
Bog of Frogs 6
The Summit 7
St Mary’s Abbey 7
Start of the East Pier 8
To the end of the East Pier 8
Beside the Howth Yacht Club 8
Optional Walk to the West Pier 8
Howth Castle 9
Route Map 10

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Stop 2: Sutton Cross
You will have either arrived here after walking
from the DART Station or you will have alighted
from a bus.
Stop 1: Sutton DART Station
The tour commences at the DART station at Sutton or,
if you have arrived by bus, from Sutton Cross (in which
case move now to stop 2). When you exit the Railway
Station, walk in the direction that is directly leading
away from the main door of the station building. If you
are unsure just ask to be directed towards Sutton Cross.
Stop 3: Sutton Dinghy Club
At Sutton crossroads take Greenfield Road which goes off to the
south-east or left-hand side of the Marine Hotel. Your first main
objective, Sheilmartin Hill, rises up straight ahead like a mini
mountain range. But first, when you reach it, enjoy a pleasant
coastal walk along the tidal shore. If the tide is out you can
walk on the beach past stranded boats and people digging for
fish bait. At the next junction keep to the coast-hugging Strand
Road – rejoin the road if you have been on the beach. The road
now narrows and the path disappears, but keep close to the wall
facing the on-coming traffic, of which there is very little anyway.
Stop at the Sutton Dinghy Club.

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Stop 4: Entrance to Public Right of Way
Shortly after passing the Sutton Dinghy Club you will arrive at a group of houses
with interesting architectural facades, the very apogee of Victorian coastal design.
Just beyond these houses, where the road curves away from the strand and the first
house on your right-hand side appears, enter a well-trodden pathway which still
skirts the coastline.
Stop 5: Martello Tower
Commence walking along the path which, for now, moves closer to the cliff edge, so please be
careful. There is a complete cliff walk which skirts the whole peninsula until arriving at Howth
village but you will only be walking along this first part of it. On another occasion you may
like to travel the entire Cliff Walk system as a separate expedition. To the left of the rather flat
terrain and in among the trees is the red-brick former manor house known as Sutton Castle.
This was built in the 19th century as a home for the Jameson family who were once famous
whiskey makers in Dublin. It has now been converted and added
to as an apartment complex. Ahead, built on top of the sea rocks,
is a round building known as a Martello tower, your next stop.

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Stop 6: Sheilmartin Hill
Continue walking along what soon becomes narrower and more typical of the cliff walk. From
here to the north-east corner of the peninsula, the cliffs and hidden coves provide shelter for an
abundance of seabirds including herring gulls, kittiwakes, fulmars, razorbills, guillemots and the
larger cormorants and kestrels. Offshore, two species of seal are fairly widespread, the common and
grey seal.
A large clump of rock now appears ahead, its colour giving the district its name, Red Rock. Since
1996 this whole area, along with the cliff terrain from here to the Summit, a place you will be
visiting later, has been protected from further development by a special government order. Take the
left track around the rock formation (at the sign announcing ‘Warning No Through Path’) and head
towards the distant houses. At another sign, ‘Warning Dangerous Cliffs’, turn left again which will
lead you through the shrubbery and a derelict metal gateway on to Carrickbrack Road. Carefully
cross this road and head left until you encounter the unobstructed view of the next hill on your
right. Stop at an open part of the low wall dividing the path from the hill.
Stop 7: Bog of Frogs
Make your way down the path to the left which is marked by a direction
sign. This time your walk is through a carpet of heather which from July to
September displays a profusion of crimson-purple flowers. The object of the
exercise is to get clear of the golf course as quickly as possible to avoid both
being hit by stray balls and damaging the course itself. Follow the path beside
the cottage, now a storage shed, which is outlined by white stones and keep
walking until you reach Muck Rock Hill. Stay close to the northern edge of the
Bog of Frogs, a valley peat bog. It is close to a group of four Scots pine trees and
is raised slightly above the level of the surrounding ground.

Stop 8: The Summit
Don’t be concerned if you get a little confused about
which of the many trodden paths you should now take.
Even if you take a wrong path, as long as you head in
an easterly direction, you will eventually re-emerge
somewhere along Windgate Road. To help you find the
best route look out for some high pylons and head in
their direction. Close to the pylons you will find a path
that will take you between the Loughoreen Hills and
Black Linn, past a quarry and out on to Windgate Road.
First turn right, then left, into Windgate Rise, near the
end of which is an exit covered by three bollards which
will lead into Thormanby Road. A short distance ahead is
the Summit Inn, a pub where, if you are in need, you may
seek refreshment. Next, continue up Bailey Green Road
to the viewing area where there is a stupendous prospect
that encompasses the whole bay area with its varied
shipping and miscellaneous lighthouses.
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Stop 9: St Mary’s Abbey
Just below the bungalow, you can take the upper cliff walk, which is a relatively
wide and safe pathway, which swings around East Mountain and leads eventually
onto Upper Cliff Road. You can, of course, walk all the way down to the Baily
Lighthouse and back again, if you wish. From Upper Cliff Road, move downhill along
Thormanby Road into the fishing village of Howth, a place which, until recently,
modern progress had ignored. The new buildings are, by and large, in sympathetic
agreement or in pleasing contrast to the old, and the village has taken on a more
welcoming sophistication.
Keep heading downhill, until, having
passed the Baily Court Hotel, you take
the left-hand uphill road at the next
junction. The parochial hall on your
left, built in 1814, was the original
church for the Roman Catholics until
the present church, which you passed
a few minutes ago, was opened in
1899. Straight ahead, at the next bend,
is one of the most important buildings
in Howth, St Mary’s Abbey with its
graveyard and collegiate building.

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Stop 10: Start of the East Pier
Return back down to Abbey Street via the steepish stone steps to your right which is situated between a
pair of buildings. The steps will lead you out beside the Abbey Tavern, one of the best-known entertainment
pubs in Dublin, where Irish songs, ballads and other traditional entertainments may be enjoyed. Now
continue downhill. The castellated boundary walls of the former Howth Abbey merge into some
apartment and retail complexes. At the end of the road cross over and pause for a while at the
entrance to the long pier straight ahead, which is known as the East Pier.
Stop 11: To the end of the East Pier
You will now commence to walk down the pier itself which has been a favourite
promenade of Dubliners since Victorian days. I would recommend that you walk down
on the upper parapet level and return by way of the lower level. Be very careful walking
along the lower pier where working trawlers or other boats may be tied up. Netting,
cables and other pieces of equipment may lie across the path and trip the unwary.
Here and there, the surface of the East Pier can be a bit uneven and there can be gaps
between the granite slabs, so mind where you place your feet. Avoid the East Pier in
stormy weather or when a strong east wind is blowing, particularly on the upper level,
as it can be washed with great spumes of water.
So then, climb up the few steps onto the higher level and before commencing, take in
the seaward view to your right towards the cove of Balscadden Bay, which is overlooked
by a scattering of houses clinging to the side of the hill. Then start the walk to the end
of the pier which is about 750m long. Stop at the lighthouse.
Stop 12: Beside the
Howth Yacht Club
Now take the steps down to the lower level to return
back to the village. Turn right along the harbour wall
and continue until you pass the Howth Yacht Club
and walk across to the water-side again before
stopping to have a look at all the parked yachts.
Stop 13: Optional Walk to the West Pier
I would expect that most people are tired by now and all too ready to rest in a café, bar or restaurant
or indeed, to take the DART back to Dublin city. But there are a couple of options if you have the
endurance to take them. Walk along Harbour Road and turn into the next pier, which is called the
West Pier. Meander on to the end of the pier taking in the sights. On the return you will have an
opportunity to study the trawlers themselves – providing the fleet is in, of course. Climb the curving
steps at the pier’s end and scan the horizon in all directions. There is an excellent view of Sutton and
Claremont Strand to the west, and Portmarnock, Malahide and Donabate to the northwest.

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Stop 14: Howth Castle
Return up the pier on the left-hand side, taking care not to trip over tying-up ropes, hawser lines, nets,
fish boxes and all the trappings of a busy fishing port. There are about 40 vessels of all shapes and sizes
in the Howth fishing fleet, although the once traditional small wooden trawler is now almost a thing of
the past, and the gargantuan ocean-going trawlers-cum-processing-factories are mainly concentrated
in Ireland’s south and northwest ports. The Howth fleet confines itself almost entirely to the Irish Sea,
and the fish landed here are mainly cod, plaice, whiting, haddock, sole, hake, mackerel, herring and
prawn. Looking down into the decks of the trawlers, you can easily see how tough and hazardous the
profession is. A major rebuilding of the harbour was undertaken and finished in 1986, when additional
piers and facilities were built.
A short walk out of the village by way of the DART Station will bring you to the entrance of the National
Transport Museum and Howth Castle. A sign on the left-hand side of the road indicates where you
should turn left and enter through a gateway.
The Transport Museum is literally packed with a
huge range of vehicles, from a fully restored Hill
of Howth Tram to a humble horse-drawn delivery
vehicle. Trams, buses, fire engines, military vehicles
and commercial transport make up an extremely
interesting and rare collection. During the summer
months the museum is open every day except
Sunday between 10.00 am and 5.00pm. During the
rest of the year it is only open Saturdays, Sundays
and bank holidays from 2.00 to 5pm.
Further uphill from the museum is the venerable
Howth Castle which owes its origins to the Norman
knight, Sir Almeric Tristam, who wrested the
peninsula from the Norsemen in 1177. Walk to
the front of the castle where you can see the main
residence.

GREENFIELD ROA
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iWalk
route map
To the end of
the East Pier
Start of the East Pier
West Pier
Sutton DART Station
Sutton Cross
01
STATION ROAD
SUTTON
02
HOWTH R
CHURCH ROAD
Howth Castle
Beside the
Howth Yacht Club
St Mary’s Abbey
The Summit
Bog of Frogs
Sheilmartin Hill
Sutton Dinghy Club
Entrance to
Public Right of Way
Martello Tower

11
11
13
HOWTH ROAD
OAD
12
10
OFFINGTON PARK
OFFINGTON DRIVE
14
HARBOUR ROAD
CHURCH STREET
09
ST. LAWRENCE ROAD
BALSCADDEN ROAD
D
DEER PARK GOLF COURSE
GRACE O’MALLEY DRIVE
MAIN STREET
ST MARYS ROAD
HOWTH
NASHVILLE ROAD
NASHVILLE PARK
CARRICKBRACK HILL
BALKILL PARK
BALKILL ROAD
DUNGRIFFEN ROAD
CARRICKBRACK ROAD
THORMANBY ROAD
03
CARRICKBRACK LAWN
STRAND ROAD
ST FINTANS PARK
ST FINTANS CRESCENT
07
WINDGATE ROAD
FINTANS ROAD
KITESTOWN ROAD
CARRICKBRACK ROAD
HOWTH GOLF COURSE
06
04
SHIELMARTIN ROAD
SUTTON
HOUSE
THORMANBY ROAD
08
05
WINDGATE ROAD
CARRICKBRACK
ROAD
CARRICKBRACK ROAD

We hope that you enjoyed this walk
which was narrated by its author,
Pat Liddy, who may be visited on his
website www.walkingtours.ie and
brought to you by Fáilte Ireland on
www.visitdublin.com
For the latest updates on walking
tours of Dublin, check out our website:
www.visitdublin.com/iwalks
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Thank you for visiting our city
© The copyright for this text is owned by Pat Liddy and such copyright has been asserted
by him. He has made this text available to be exclusively used by Fáilte Ireland.
FI-22496-13