Optiphen Plus Brochure - Lotioncrafter

OPTIPHEN
Paraben-Free and Formaldehyde-Free Preservation
for Effective Broad Spectrum Protection
Sun Care Body and Face Care Color Cosmetics Hair Care
PLUS

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INTRODUCTION
Optiphen Plus is the second globally approved
preservative in the family of Optiphen products
developed for paraben- and formaldehyde-free
preservation, particularly within lower pH systems.
Optiphen Plus is an ISP patent-pending liquid
preservative formulation featuring an innovative blend of
phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid and an emollient base that is
ideal for slightly acidic personal care products requiring
broad spectrum protection. The combination of all three
ingredients offers effective protection against bacteria,
yeast and mold growth while imparting emolliency.
Optiphen Plus performs best in formulations below 6.0
pH. Depending on the formulation, Optiphen Plus has
also been proven effective at pH levels above 6.0.
This preservative is effective as a stand-alone system and
functions well with other preservatives. Optiphen Plus
has an extensive range of applications in aqueous
and emulsion-type personal care formulations and is
compatible with most raw materials in the personal
care industry.
PRODUCT BENEFITS
+ Globally approved
+ Highly effective broad spectrum antimicrobial
+ Effective at pH levels below 6.0
+ Non-formaldehyde donor
+ Paraben-free
+ Non-isothiazolinone
+ Imparts emolliency
+ Compatible with most raw materials
+ Excellent safety and toxicological profile
CHEMISTRY
The ingredient phenoxyethanol, is an aromatic ether
alcohol commonly used for preservation of personal care
products. Sorbic acid is often used in lower pH personal
care formulations and functions as a complementary
preservative. Lastly, 1,2 octanediol – INCI name: caprylyl
glycol – is the emollient base, giving the product
exceptional feel.
OPTIPHEN
Structurally, Optiphen Plus is represented as:
O
OH
Phenoxyethanol Caprylyl Glycol
H3C
Proposed INCI Name:
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Sorbic Acid
TYPICAL PROPERTIES
Sorbic Acid
Odor...................................Characteristic
Appearance........................Liquid
Color..................................Clear to pale straw (100 max.)
Specific Gravity...................1.0140 – 1.0240
SOLUBILITY (g/100g solvent at 25°C)
Water.................................1.0
Ethanol...............................>100 miscible
Isopropanol........................>100 miscible
Ethylene Glycol...................>100 miscible
Propylene Glycol.................>100 miscible
Butylene Glycol...................>100 miscible
Glycerin..............................>100 miscible
Mineral Oil..........................0.6
RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS
Sun Care
Sunscreen Creams and Lotions
Daily Wear Sun Protection Products
Body and Face Care
Moisturizers
Hand and Body Creams and Lotions
Night Creams
Wipes
PLUS
CO2H
OH
OH

Color Cosmetics
Foundations
Concealers
Blush
Hair Care
Styling Gels
Shampoos
FORMULATION GUIDELINES
Optiphen Plus can be easily added to the formulation
during pre- or post-emulsification at or below 80°C.
Optiphen Plus works best when used in formulations
with a pH below 6.0 and is compatible with most
ingredients used in the personal care industry.
Recommended Use Levels: 0.75 – 1.5%
SAFETY PROFILE
Optiphen Plus has an excellent safety and toxicological
profile and is safe to use in a wide range of personal care
applications.
CAS Numbers:
+ Phenoxyethanol: 122-99-6
+ Caprylyl Glycol: 1117-86-8
+ Sorbic Acid: 110-44-1
PRESERVATIVE SYSTEM EFFICACY IN
FORMULATION
The challenge test is a 28-day test used to verify the
effectiveness of a preservative system in a finished
personal care formulation. Selected formulations were
inoculated with microorganisms at the onset of testing (0
hours), then sampled at 48 hours, 7 days, 14 days, 21
days, and 28 days. At 21 days the formulations were
re-inoculated with the same microorganisms. Pass/fail
criteria were based on modified CTFA* protocol.
*Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association
Optiphen Plus was tested in several systems and found to
be an effective preservative system in a variety of personal
care formulations against the microorganisms listed:
Abbreviation Microorganism
SA Staphylococcus aureus
ECOLI Escherichia coli
PSA Pseudomonas aeruginosa
BC Burkholderia cepacia
CAN Candida albicans
AN Aspergillus niger
Based on challenge test data, Optiphen Plus is
recommended for use in personal care products at levels
between 0.75 - 1.5%. Please note that every personal care
formulation requires a preservative system that meets its
specific needs. Therefore, every newly developed or
modified product must be challenge tested to ensure
adequate preservation.
I3

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+ Velvet Effect Sunscreen (#11089-37-1)
Ingredients %W/W Supplier
Phase A
Deionized Water 67.25
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Xanthan Gum (Keltrol T) 0.50 CP Kelco
Glycerin 1.00
Phase B
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and)
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and)
Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and)
Hydroxyethyl Cetearamidopropyldimonium
Chloride (PROLIPID® 151)
4.00 ISP
Octinoxate (ESCALOL® 557) 7.50 ISP
Oxybenzone (ESCALOL® 567) 3.00 ISP
Dioctyl Malate (CERAPHYL® 45) 5.00 ISP
Isodecyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® SLK) 10.00 ISP
Phase C
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Sorbic Acid (OPTIPHEN PLUS)
1.50 ISP
Fragrance (Apple RA-45) 0.15
100.00%
Robertet
Procedure:
1. Combine water and Disodium EDTA in a proper vessel.
Pre-mix Xanthan Gum and Glycerin and slowly add it
to Phase A. Begin to heat to 75°C; continue mixing.
2. Combine Phase B with stirring and heat to 75°C.
3. Add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization.
4. Switch to stirring and begin to cool.
5. Add Phase C at 35°C.
6. QS for water loss and mix to RT.
pH: 3.90
Viscosity: 4,800 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
FORMULATIONS
MICROBIOLOGICAL STUDIES
Preservative Efficacy (CFU/g)
Organism 48 Hrs 7 Days 14 Days 21 Days 28 Days
SA

+ After Shave Balm (#11089-41-1)
Ingredients %W/W Supplier
Phase A
Deionized Water 80.12
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Acrylates Copolymer (Aculyn® 33) 2.00 Rohm & Haas
Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer
(Aculyn® 22)
1.00 Rohm & Haas
Propylene Glycol
Phase B
3.00
Sodium Hydroxide (10% Aq. Soln.)
Phase C
1.28 Fisher Scient.
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and)
Stearyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and)
Palmitic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and)
Hydroxyethyl Cetearamidopropyldimonium
Chloride (PROLIPID® 151)
3.50 ISP
Isocetyl Stearate (CERAPHYL® 494) 1.00 ISP
C12-15 Alkyl Lactate (CERAPHYL® 41) 1.50 ISP
Octyldodecyl Stearate (CERAPHYL® ODS)
Phase D
3.00 ISP
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate (and) Propylene Glycol
(and) PVM/MA Copolymer (LUBRAJEL® OIL)
1.00 ISP
Polyquaternium-11 (GAFQUAT® 755N)
Phase E
0.50 ISP
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Sorbic Acid (OPTIPHEN PLUS)
1.00 ISP
Fragrance CK-1 Type EE54017 1.00
100.00%
Ungerer
Procedure:
1. Combine Phase A with stirring, heat to 75-80°C.
2. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform.
3. Combine Phase C and heat to 75°C while mixing.
4. Add Phase C to Phases A&B with homogenization.
5. Add Phase D in order listed with stirring.
Mix between additions; begin cool down.
6. Add Phase E in order listed at 40°C; mix between additions.
7. Mix to RT and QS for water loss.
pH: 6.40
Viscosity: 14,800 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
MICROBIOLOGICAL STUDIES
Preservative Efficacy (CFU/g)
Organism 48 Hrs 7 Days 14 Days 21 Days 28 Days
SA

6I
+ Light Moisturizer (#11094-53-5)
Ingredients %W/W Supplier
Phase A
Deionized Water 58.90
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer
(STABILEZE® QM)
Glycerin 3.00
Phase B
Procedure:
1. Slowly sprinkle in Stabileze QM to water of Phase A with mixing.
2. Once Stabileze is completely dispersed; heat and maintain at
80°C for approximately 45 minutes with mixing.
3. Add Disodium EDTA and Glycerin to Phase A with mixing.
4. Combine ingredients in Phase B and heat to 75-80°C with mixing.
5. Add Phase C to Phase A; mix for 5 minutes.
6. Add Phase B to Phases A&C; mix until homogeneous.
7. Cool to 45°C then add Phase D with mixing.
8. QS for water loss.
pH: 5.50
Viscosity: 17,600 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
FORMULATIONS
0.50 ISP
Oxybenzone (ESCALOL® 567) 2.00 ISP
Octinoxate (ESCALOL® 557) 7.50 ISP
Avobenzone (ESCALOL® 517) 1.00 ISP
Ethylhexyl Palmitate (CERAPHYL® 368) 2.00 ISP
Phenethyl Benzoate (X-TEND 226) 10.00 ISP
Isodecyl Oleate (CERAPHYL® 140A) 1.540 ISP
Isodecyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® SLK) 3.00 ISP
PEG-20 Stearate (CERASYNT® 840) 1.50 ISP
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Laureth-23
(CERASYNT® 945)
Phase C
Triethanolamine, 99% 0.50
Deionized Water 5.00
Phase D
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Sorbic Acid (OPTIPHEN PLUS)
2.00 ISP
1.50 ISP
100.00%
MICROBIOLOGICAL STUDIES
Preservative Efficacy (CFU/g)
Organism 48 Hrs 7 Days 14 Days 21 Days 28 Days
SA

+ Nourishing Sunscreen SPF 18 (#11089-38-1)
Ingredients %W/W Supplier
Phase A
Deionized Water 55.45
Disodium EDTA (Versene NA) 0.10 Dow Chemical
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum Ultra) 0.50 RT Vanderbilt
Xanthan Gum (Keltro T) 0.50 Kelco
Butylene Glycol 3.00
Phase B
Octinoxate (ESCALOL® 557) 7.50 ISP
Oxybenzone (ESCALOL® 567) 3.00 ISP
Octisalate (ESCALOL® 587) 3.00 ISP
Stearic Acid 3.00
Glyceryl Stearate (CERASYNT® SD) 1.50 ISP
Cetyl Alcohol (Lanette 16 NF) 0.75 Cognis
Ethylhexyl Palmitate (CERAPHYL® 368) 4.00 ISP
Myristyl Myristate (and) Myristyl Laurate
(CERAPHYL® 424)
0.50 ISP
Isostearyl Neopentanoate (CERAPHYL® 375) 2.00 ISP
Phase C
Deionized Water 5.00
Triethanolamine, 99% 1.20
Phase D
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl
Phosphates (VITAL ET)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and)
Sorbic Acid (OPTIPHEN PLUS)
7.50 ISP
1.50 ISP
100.00%
Procedure:
1. Combine water, Disodium EDTA; sprinkle in Magnesium
Aluminum Silicate. Pre-mix Xanthan Gum and Butylene Glycol;
slowly add to Phase A. Begin heating to 70-75°C; continue mixing.
2. Combine ingredients in Phase B with mixing and heat to 75-80°C.
3. When Phase B is at 70-75°C add to Phase A with good mixing.
4. Combine ingredients in Phase C; add to batch with mixing.
5. After batch is uniform, begin to cool.
6. Add Phase D at 30-35°C in order listed.
7. QS for water loss and mix to RT.
pH: 7.25
Viscosity: 6,400 cps (Brookfield Model RVT, TB @ 5 RPM)
MICROBIOLOGICAL STUDIES
Preservative Efficacy (CFU/g)
Organism 48 Hrs 7 Days 14 Days 21 Days 28 Days
SA

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Trademark registration applied for ® Registered trademark of the ISP group © International Specialty Products. 2004 Designed & Printed in USA. Product Code: PRCA0085 9/2004
The information contained in this brochure and the various products described are intended for use only by persons having technical skill and at their own discretion and risk after they have performed necessary technical investigations,
tests and evaluations of the products and their uses. While the information herein is believed to be reliable, we do not guarantee its accuracy and a purchaser must make its own determination of a product’s suitability for purchaser’s
use, for the protection of the environment, and for the health and safety of its employees and the purchasers of its products. Neither ISP nor its affiliates shall be responsible for the use of this information, or of any product, method,
formulation, or apparatus described in this brochure. Nothing herein waives any of ISP’s or its affiliates’ conditions of sale, and WE MAKE NO WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS OF ANY PRODUCT
FOR A PARTICULAR USE OR PURPOSE. We also make no warranty against infringement of any patents by reason of purchaser’s use of any information, product, method or apparatus described in this brochure.