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64<br />
Charming sea views<br />
Îles de la Madeleine<br />
These bewitchingly idyllic islands were ‘rediscovered’<br />
in the 1960s by the travel-minded people of<br />
francophone Québec and have now been settled<br />
by an intriguing mix of artists and watersports<br />
enthusiasts, giving a paradoxically vibrant vibe for<br />
visitors in the summer. Iron-rich red cliffs and quaint<br />
fishing villages painted charmingly in mauves, yellows<br />
and reds give the place an ethereal charm, whilst<br />
magnificent golden sandy beaches stretch as far as the<br />
eye can see and and are great for beach-combing.<br />
Waters here are surprisingly warm and people come<br />
from far afield to wind-surf, kite-board and kayak.<br />
Gloriously isolated, being spread over 100 kilometres<br />
in the middle of the huge Gulf of St Lawrence, the<br />
heart of the community is a set of five islands, 60<br />
kilometres in length, linked by sand spits and a road.<br />
Each island has its own distinct culture, which is<br />
surprisingly diverse for such a relatively small<br />
archipelago. In the north there are Anglophone<br />
communities who speak very little French and there is<br />
almost an inter-island rivalry where locals will assure<br />
you that their island is much nicer than the next.<br />
The islanders are extremely friendly and hospitable<br />
and are only too happy to share their little bit of<br />
paradise with visitors. They have some wonderful<br />
stories to tell and in the small bars that dot the islands<br />
they will often burst into song, quite spontaneously,<br />
with old Acadian songs illuminating their rich heritage.<br />
Food here is heavily influenced by French cuisine,<br />
and of course, seafood – fruits de la mer – features<br />
on every menu. The start of the lobster season in<br />
June is a major event in the islands when it’s possible<br />
for visitors to see the fishermen return to the docks<br />
with their catch and perhaps pick up dinner from the<br />
quayside. The archipelago is easily explored by car<br />
but many of the locals prefer to cycle. It is possible<br />
to reach the islands by air but perhaps the most<br />
charming way is to arrive at Cap aux Meules by<br />
ferry from Prince Edward Island, before continuing<br />
by boat to Québec’s Gaspésie Peninsula or<br />
Québec City itself.<br />
Harp Seal Viewing<br />
In late February and early March tens of thousands<br />
of harp seals congregate near the Îles de la<br />
Madeleine to whelp on the ice floes surrounding<br />
the archipelago. Day trips by helicopter from the<br />
islands provide a superb opportunity to observe<br />
Artists on the islands<br />
Domaine du Vieux Couvent<br />
the baby seals, called whitecoats. Seeing the<br />
immensity of the ice-field scattered with seal pups<br />
is an enthralling experience for winter visitors.<br />
DOMAINE DU VIEUX COUVENT,<br />
ÎLES DE LA MADELEINE<br />
A former convent built between 1914 and 1916,<br />
the Domaine du Vieux Couvent enjoys a<br />
magnificent seaside setting. The property was<br />
refurbished in 2006 to provide ten unique and<br />
stylish rooms, each named after an aspect of the<br />
area’s history, folklore and poetry. From the<br />
bathrobes to the décor, every item has been<br />
carefully selected. Le Réfectoire is a bistro style<br />
restaurant offering the best of the islands’ produce<br />
including mussels, lobster, herring, mackerel, clams,<br />
bouillabaisse, veal, home-bred boars, wild fruit and<br />
berries, as well as local cheeses. This is the perfect<br />
base from which to take boat trips, cycle around<br />
the islands or take walks along the beach.