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Charming sea views
Îles de la Madeleine
These bewitchingly idyllic islands were ‘rediscovered’
in the 1960s by the travel-minded people of
francophone Québec and have now been settled
by an intriguing mix of artists and watersports
enthusiasts, giving a paradoxically vibrant vibe for
visitors in the summer. Iron-rich red cliffs and quaint
fishing villages painted charmingly in mauves, yellows
and reds give the place an ethereal charm, whilst
magnificent golden sandy beaches stretch as far as the
eye can see and and are great for beach-combing.
Waters here are surprisingly warm and people come
from far afield to wind-surf, kite-board and kayak.
Gloriously isolated, being spread over 100 kilometres
in the middle of the huge Gulf of St Lawrence, the
heart of the community is a set of five islands, 60
kilometres in length, linked by sand spits and a road.
Each island has its own distinct culture, which is
surprisingly diverse for such a relatively small
archipelago. In the north there are Anglophone
communities who speak very little French and there is
almost an inter-island rivalry where locals will assure
you that their island is much nicer than the next.
The islanders are extremely friendly and hospitable
and are only too happy to share their little bit of
paradise with visitors. They have some wonderful
stories to tell and in the small bars that dot the islands
they will often burst into song, quite spontaneously,
with old Acadian songs illuminating their rich heritage.
Food here is heavily influenced by French cuisine,
and of course, seafood – fruits de la mer – features
on every menu. The start of the lobster season in
June is a major event in the islands when it’s possible
for visitors to see the fishermen return to the docks
with their catch and perhaps pick up dinner from the
quayside. The archipelago is easily explored by car
but many of the locals prefer to cycle. It is possible
to reach the islands by air but perhaps the most
charming way is to arrive at Cap aux Meules by
ferry from Prince Edward Island, before continuing
by boat to Québec’s Gaspésie Peninsula or
Québec City itself.
Harp Seal Viewing
In late February and early March tens of thousands
of harp seals congregate near the Îles de la
Madeleine to whelp on the ice floes surrounding
the archipelago. Day trips by helicopter from the
islands provide a superb opportunity to observe
Artists on the islands
Domaine du Vieux Couvent
the baby seals, called whitecoats. Seeing the
immensity of the ice-field scattered with seal pups
is an enthralling experience for winter visitors.
DOMAINE DU VIEUX COUVENT,
ÎLES DE LA MADELEINE
A former convent built between 1914 and 1916,
the Domaine du Vieux Couvent enjoys a
magnificent seaside setting. The property was
refurbished in 2006 to provide ten unique and
stylish rooms, each named after an aspect of the
area’s history, folklore and poetry. From the
bathrobes to the décor, every item has been
carefully selected. Le Réfectoire is a bistro style
restaurant offering the best of the islands’ produce
including mussels, lobster, herring, mackerel, clams,
bouillabaisse, veal, home-bred boars, wild fruit and
berries, as well as local cheeses. This is the perfect
base from which to take boat trips, cycle around
the islands or take walks along the beach.