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Fur seals on the Pribilof Islands<br />
114<br />
The Pribilof Islands<br />
Lying in the midst of the Bering Sea, the islands<br />
of St. Paul and St. George are together known as<br />
the Pribilof Islands. These desolate, foggy and<br />
windswept islands are overrun with wildlife and<br />
each summer a million fur seals, the largest<br />
gathering of sea mammals in the world, swim<br />
ashore to breed on the dark sand beaches. The<br />
islands’ dizzying ocean cliffs are also home to one<br />
of the largest seabird colonies in the northern<br />
hemisphere, with well over two million birds<br />
ranging from common murres and crested auklets<br />
to tufted puffins and cormorants. The cliffs are<br />
easy to reach and during the summer breeding<br />
months more than 230 species of birds have<br />
been sighted. Two tiny communities here<br />
comprise the world’s largest indigenous Aleut<br />
villages which, along with a rich Russian heritage,<br />
make these islands fascinating to explore.<br />
Prospecting for gold on Nome’s golden beaches<br />
Nome<br />
In many ways Nome is the archetypal Alaskan<br />
town – rough-hewn, fun-loving, a wild west ghost<br />
town that refuses to die. Situated on the rugged<br />
Bering Sea coast and cut off from the continental<br />
road system, Nome is closer to Siberia than to<br />
Anchorage. It was here in 1898 that three<br />
Scandinavians discovered gold at Anvil Creek and<br />
the following year gold was discovered on the<br />
beaches. News of the ‘golden beaches’ spread and<br />
soon 20,000 prospectors flocked to the town that<br />
is now Nome. Wyatt Earp and his wife arrived<br />
here by steamship in 1899 to open the Dexter,<br />
Nome’s largest and most luxurious saloon. He left<br />
two years later with $80,000 – a fortune at that<br />
time. Although much of the original architecture<br />
has been lost and gold mining is no longer a<br />
prominent industry, Nome retains its colourful<br />
character. The town enjoys a scenic setting beside<br />
the Bering Sea and is watched over by Anvil<br />
Mountain. Beside the sea wall lies the Donald<br />
Perkins Memorial Plaza featuring a collection of<br />
old mining detritus including dredge buckets left<br />
over from the 100 or more gold dredges that<br />
once operated here. Each year a variety of events<br />
takes places in this fascinating town, the best<br />
known of which is likely to be the gruelling<br />
Iditarod dog-sled race which ends here<br />
in March. Participants mush their teams across<br />
1,688 kilometres of inhospitable terrain, in freezing<br />
Traditional dress on the Pribilof Islands<br />
temperatures, from Anchorage to this little town<br />
beside the Bering Sea coast. Summer visitors are<br />
more likely to encounter reindeer and musk oxen<br />
which can often be seen grazing on the tundra<br />
outside town. The region is also considered prime<br />
bird-watching territory. There are roads here –<br />
something of a novelty in this part of the world –<br />
and so no trip to Nome is complete without<br />
hiring a pick-up truck to explore.<br />
AURORA INN, NOME<br />
This modern hotel, situated on Front Street, lies<br />
just a short walk from the centre of town. There<br />
are 68 light and spacious guest rooms in a variety<br />
of room types, some with kitchenettes, and<br />
facilities include guest laundry and a sauna.