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Fur seals on the Pribilof Islands<br />

114<br />

The Pribilof Islands<br />

Lying in the midst of the Bering Sea, the islands<br />

of St. Paul and St. George are together known as<br />

the Pribilof Islands. These desolate, foggy and<br />

windswept islands are overrun with wildlife and<br />

each summer a million fur seals, the largest<br />

gathering of sea mammals in the world, swim<br />

ashore to breed on the dark sand beaches. The<br />

islands’ dizzying ocean cliffs are also home to one<br />

of the largest seabird colonies in the northern<br />

hemisphere, with well over two million birds<br />

ranging from common murres and crested auklets<br />

to tufted puffins and cormorants. The cliffs are<br />

easy to reach and during the summer breeding<br />

months more than 230 species of birds have<br />

been sighted. Two tiny communities here<br />

comprise the world’s largest indigenous Aleut<br />

villages which, along with a rich Russian heritage,<br />

make these islands fascinating to explore.<br />

Prospecting for gold on Nome’s golden beaches<br />

Nome<br />

In many ways Nome is the archetypal Alaskan<br />

town – rough-hewn, fun-loving, a wild west ghost<br />

town that refuses to die. Situated on the rugged<br />

Bering Sea coast and cut off from the continental<br />

road system, Nome is closer to Siberia than to<br />

Anchorage. It was here in 1898 that three<br />

Scandinavians discovered gold at Anvil Creek and<br />

the following year gold was discovered on the<br />

beaches. News of the ‘golden beaches’ spread and<br />

soon 20,000 prospectors flocked to the town that<br />

is now Nome. Wyatt Earp and his wife arrived<br />

here by steamship in 1899 to open the Dexter,<br />

Nome’s largest and most luxurious saloon. He left<br />

two years later with $80,000 – a fortune at that<br />

time. Although much of the original architecture<br />

has been lost and gold mining is no longer a<br />

prominent industry, Nome retains its colourful<br />

character. The town enjoys a scenic setting beside<br />

the Bering Sea and is watched over by Anvil<br />

Mountain. Beside the sea wall lies the Donald<br />

Perkins Memorial Plaza featuring a collection of<br />

old mining detritus including dredge buckets left<br />

over from the 100 or more gold dredges that<br />

once operated here. Each year a variety of events<br />

takes places in this fascinating town, the best<br />

known of which is likely to be the gruelling<br />

Iditarod dog-sled race which ends here<br />

in March. Participants mush their teams across<br />

1,688 kilometres of inhospitable terrain, in freezing<br />

Traditional dress on the Pribilof Islands<br />

temperatures, from Anchorage to this little town<br />

beside the Bering Sea coast. Summer visitors are<br />

more likely to encounter reindeer and musk oxen<br />

which can often be seen grazing on the tundra<br />

outside town. The region is also considered prime<br />

bird-watching territory. There are roads here –<br />

something of a novelty in this part of the world –<br />

and so no trip to Nome is complete without<br />

hiring a pick-up truck to explore.<br />

AURORA INN, NOME<br />

This modern hotel, situated on Front Street, lies<br />

just a short walk from the centre of town. There<br />

are 68 light and spacious guest rooms in a variety<br />

of room types, some with kitchenettes, and<br />

facilities include guest laundry and a sauna.

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