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C ANADA, ALASKA<br />

& THE A RCTIC<br />

TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR THE D ISCERNING T RAVELLER


Dear <strong>Travel</strong>ler<br />

Canada is the world’s second largest<br />

country by land area while by population<br />

it is a long way down the tables - this,<br />

for me, is one of its great draws.<br />

Together with its neighbour Alaska, it<br />

offers open spaces and pristine<br />

environments that we can only dream<br />

of on our crammed little island.<br />

If it’s isolation you crave there’s plenty<br />

to be found, but this isn’t the only draw.<br />

There are cosmopolitan cities, First<br />

Nations culture and wildlife galore,<br />

and for those who venture further north,<br />

the awe-inspiring Arctic.<br />

The resourceful and hospitable<br />

Canadians and Alaskans have invented<br />

all manner of ways of enjoying their<br />

countries, from remote lodges devoted<br />

entirely to bear watching, heli-hiking in<br />

their immense mountain ranges, sailing<br />

to remote islands or riding the range with<br />

authentic cowboys. The outdoors can be<br />

more sedate, be it painting, fly-fishing<br />

or just enjoying a relaxed al fresco meal.<br />

There are wonderful places to stay too,<br />

from simple log cabins and delightful<br />

B&Bs to luxurious boutique hotels, and<br />

even five star camping.<br />

Our specialists know this region<br />

exceptionally well and can help you plan<br />

your trip in detail, including those side<br />

trips and details that even the guide<br />

books don‘t mention. I hope this brochure<br />

provides plenty of inspiration and we<br />

look forward to showing you Canada,<br />

Alaska and the Arctic, we don’t think<br />

you’ll be disappointed.<br />

Craig Burkinshaw<br />

Managing Director<br />

Sitka<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong><br />

<strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong> was founded by Craig Burkinshaw<br />

with the simple philosophy of offering clients the<br />

best possible travel experiences. Craig recognised<br />

that the only way of achieving this was to have<br />

specialists with detailed, in-depth knowledge of<br />

the countries we visit backed by a no-compromise<br />

attitude to quality and service. <strong>Audley</strong> now offers<br />

a comprehensive range of programmes<br />

throughout Asia, Africa, Latin America, Australasia,<br />

Antarctica, Canada, Alaska and the Arctic.<br />

Careful Planning<br />

Our Canada, Alaska and Arctic specialists have<br />

all travelled extensively throughout the region<br />

and in some cases have lived there, so you can<br />

rely on their knowledge. They have boundless<br />

enthusiasm and take an honest “tell it how it is”<br />

approach to planning an itinerary, suggesting<br />

sights, selecting accommodation and discussing<br />

the practicalities of travel. We also insist that they<br />

regularly revisit the region, inspect hotels and<br />

lodges, and keep up to date with all travel-related<br />

issues. We believe this approach is unique to<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> and ultimately ensures that you will have<br />

the best possible travel experience.<br />

A Journey to Suit You<br />

You may wish to travel for all sorts of reasons,<br />

whether to explore the culture and history of a<br />

region, view wildlife, discover spectacular scenery<br />

or simply to relax. For many <strong>Audley</strong> clients it is<br />

a combination of all these, while others have<br />

more specialised interests such as photography,<br />

rail journeys or walking in magnificent landscapes.<br />

Whatever you want from your trip, we can<br />

use our detailed knowledge to plan your<br />

ideal itinerary.<br />

Tailor-made <strong>Travel</strong><br />

The joy of tailor-made travel is that your<br />

complete trip is designed around your own<br />

requirements, so you are not tied to the set<br />

itinerary of a group. This allows you to explore<br />

at your own pace and select accommodation that<br />

suits your needs, with our specialist knowledge<br />

at your disposal to perfect your travel plans.<br />

Throughout the brochure you will find suggested<br />

itineraries designed by our specialists to suit<br />

the needs of most travellers. Each one can be<br />

adjusted to accommodate your specific tastes<br />

and interests, or we can plan a completely new<br />

trip to match your own requirements.<br />

2


How to plan your journey<br />

with <strong>Audley</strong><br />

We suggest you read through the brochure to<br />

obtain a feel for this region’s unique and<br />

fascinating travel possibilities. Once you have an<br />

idea of the type of trip you want to take, or want<br />

some general guidance, call one of our specialists<br />

on 01993 838 700. They will answer any<br />

questions you have and discuss your travel plans<br />

and ideas in detail, making suggestions where<br />

appropriate. We will then send you a detailed<br />

itinerary complete with maps, accommodation<br />

information, colour photographs and a price.<br />

Once you have read through the itinerary we will<br />

answer any further questions and refine the tour<br />

until you are totally satisfied. The booking process<br />

starts when we receive your deposit and booking<br />

form, at which point we can start to confirm your<br />

travel arrangements. The same <strong>Audley</strong> specialist<br />

will be handling your trip from start to finish:<br />

please feel free to call them at any time.<br />

Contents<br />

Introduction 2-13<br />

British Columbia 14-29<br />

Alberta 30-37<br />

Saskatchewan 38-39<br />

Manitoba 40-45<br />

Ontario 46-55<br />

Québec 56-65<br />

The Maritime Provinces 66-79<br />

Arctic Expedition Cruising 80-85<br />

Nunavut 86-89<br />

Northwest Territories 90-93<br />

Yukon 94-97<br />

Alaska 98-115<br />

Financial Security<br />

You can book with us confident in the knowledge<br />

that we are fully bonded with the Civil Aviation<br />

Authority and hold an Air Tour Operators’ License<br />

(ATOL 4817). This fully covers all holiday<br />

arrangements which begin in the UK. If your<br />

arrangements do not begin in the UK, you are<br />

protected by our Association of British <strong>Travel</strong> Agents<br />

(ABTA) membership. Our ABTA number is W8501.<br />

Totem house, Ketchikan<br />

Arctic Ocean<br />

Anchorage<br />

ALASKA<br />

Fairbanks<br />

Beaufort<br />

Sea<br />

Baffin<br />

Bay<br />

Davis Strait<br />

Gulf of<br />

Alaska<br />

YUKON<br />

Dawson<br />

Whitehorse<br />

Juneau<br />

NORTHWEST<br />

TERRITORIES<br />

Yellowknife<br />

NUNAVUT<br />

Iqaluit<br />

Labrador<br />

Sea<br />

Prince Rupert<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Pacific<br />

Ocean<br />

BRITISH<br />

COLUMBIA<br />

Vancouver<br />

Victoria<br />

Banff<br />

Jasper<br />

ALBERTA<br />

Calgary<br />

Edmonton<br />

SASKATCHEWAN<br />

Regina<br />

Saskatoon<br />

MANITOBA<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Churchill<br />

Hudson<br />

Bay<br />

ONTARIO<br />

QUÉBEC<br />

Québec<br />

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR<br />

PRINCE<br />

EDWARD<br />

ISLAND<br />

NEW<br />

BRUNSWICK<br />

NOVA<br />

SCOTIA<br />

Halifax<br />

St John’s<br />

0 300 miles<br />

OTTAWA<br />

Montréal<br />

0 483 kilometres<br />

Toronto<br />

3


A friendly First Nations greeting<br />

History<br />

Canada and Alaska’s first inhabitants were native<br />

Americans, thought to have arrived across ice<br />

bridges over the Bering Strait from Eurasia many<br />

thousands of years ago. There is also evidence of<br />

Viking settlement, but it was the arrival of the<br />

Europeans, most notably the French and British,<br />

searching for whale-oil and furs in the 16th and<br />

17th centuries, that forced the rate of change.<br />

The French colony, known as ‘New France’, was<br />

officially ceded to the British in 1763 and the<br />

country that is now Canada was formed in 1867<br />

by the confederation of four British North<br />

American colonies. In the early days it was<br />

Canada’s natural resources, its furs from the<br />

hinterland and fish from the sea, that laid the<br />

foundations of its wealth, but as the second largest<br />

country in the world it is perhaps unsurprising that<br />

other assets were just waiting to be uncovered.<br />

Canada and Alaska struck the headlines with the<br />

discovery of gold in the Klondike and substantial<br />

oil deposits were later to be found. Over the<br />

years Canada has gained independence from the<br />

UK but is still a constitutional monarchy with<br />

Queen Elizabeth II as Head of State. With small<br />

populations spread thinly over a huge landscape<br />

both Canada and Alaska remain pioneer<br />

destinations - independently minded and forward<br />

looking, and as any visitor will attest, many parts<br />

still feel barely explored: truly a new world.<br />

First Nations<br />

There are approximately one million First Nations<br />

Canadians today. This includes 200,000 Métis<br />

(aboriginal and French mixed race) and 50,000 Inuit.<br />

Their origins stem from the end of the last Ice Age,<br />

about 20,000 years ago, when nomadic tribes<br />

followed herds of mammoth and bison across the<br />

land bridge joining Siberia and Alaska. The people<br />

were misnamed firstly as ‘Indians’ by 16th century<br />

Spanish traders who mistakenly believed that they<br />

had reached India, and later ‘Red’ by the British who<br />

encountered Newfoundland’s Beothuks smeared in<br />

red ochre to repel insects. The natives of the<br />

extreme north were named ‘Eskimos’ which<br />

translates as ‘eaters of raw meat’. Unsurprisingly<br />

these names have been rejected by the aboriginal<br />

peoples in favour of ‘First Nations’ and, in the north,<br />

‘Inuit’ meaning ‘the people’. Visitors today can<br />

experience a resurgent First Nations culture<br />

including the abandoned seaboard villages and totem<br />

poles of British Columbia, archaeological heritage<br />

sites in Alberta and Saskatchewan, modern day<br />

‘pow-wows’ (singing, dancing, storytelling) in Ontario<br />

and Inuit communities in the north of the country.<br />

Accommodation<br />

The range of accommodation in Canada and Alaska<br />

is as diverse as the landscape itself. In the big cities<br />

you can stay in stylish boutique properties, often in<br />

restored historic buildings, luxury hotels with<br />

magnificent views or delightful bed and breakfasts<br />

tucked away from the hustle and bustle. In rural areas<br />

there are charming log cabins, often overlooking<br />

wilderness lakes, whilst ranch stays offer a chance<br />

to live the life of a cowboy. All the accommodation<br />

options detailed in this brochure have been carefully<br />

selected to offer you a range of alternatives but some<br />

of our favourite properties, for reasons of space, are<br />

not detailed in the following pages. Please call to<br />

discuss your requirements with our Canada and<br />

Alaska specialists: they have visited a huge range of<br />

properties and will have more suggestions to match<br />

your preferences and budget. Wherever you stay,<br />

friendly North American hospitality is bound<br />

to ensure your stay is a memorable one.<br />

Food & Drink<br />

In an area as large as Canada and Alaska the cuisine<br />

varies widely from region to region. Cities are hugely<br />

cosmopolitan, with all the cuisines of the world<br />

represented in urban centres such as Montréal with<br />

plenty of restaurants putting a North American twist<br />

on their Gallic heritage. The west coast has<br />

developed its own Pacific Rim fusion cuisine, while<br />

the Atlantic regions have access to some of the<br />

world’s freshest and largest lobsters amongst a<br />

wealth of other seafood. Inland, meals are more<br />

likely to be made up of locally-raised meats, with<br />

barbeques and steaks a traditional favourite: servings<br />

are often huge and North American breakfasts can<br />

be a real highlight of your stay.<br />

4


Autumnal vineyards<br />

Market traders in Montréal<br />

Panning for gold<br />

Climate<br />

In general the east and west coasts are<br />

temperate while the central provinces of Alberta,<br />

Saskatchewan and Manitoba experience fine<br />

summers but very cold winters. The Northwest<br />

Territories, Yukon and Alaska are delightful<br />

during the summer months between June and<br />

September but during the rest of the year<br />

temperatures are mostly well below zero. <strong>Travel</strong><br />

to Nunavut and the high Arctic is best during the<br />

brief summer months of July and August when<br />

the sun only briefly dips below the horizon, whilst<br />

on the eastern seaboard the Maritime Provinces<br />

experience four distinct seasons with a mild<br />

spring, lovely summer, crisp autumn and a snowy<br />

winter. Ontario and Québec usually have hot<br />

summers and very cold winters but are also<br />

delightful in the brief spring and autumn seasons –<br />

May and September. British Columbia and<br />

Alberta’s Rocky Mountains are wonderful to visit<br />

in the summer while the winter provides some of<br />

the world’s best skiing and a wide range of snow<br />

sports. As a general rule of thumb, travel<br />

conditions are good from the beginning of May<br />

through to mid-September, with the shoulder<br />

seasons offering some lovely scenery and<br />

fewer visitors.<br />

Bear watching in Clayoquot Sound<br />

Guides<br />

Canada and Alaska are home to many natural<br />

wonders and local curiosities: a knowledgeable<br />

and enthusiastic guide can add immeasurably<br />

to your experience. We pride ourselves on<br />

using only the best guides, all highly trained<br />

and aware of ecological, environmental and<br />

cultural sensitivities.<br />

Responsible <strong>Travel</strong><br />

We are passionate about the countries we<br />

specialise in, and have always been firmly<br />

committed to the principles of ethical travel and<br />

sustainability. Our Responsible <strong>Travel</strong> policy has<br />

been awarded three stars – the maximum<br />

possible – by AITO, and we have drawn up a<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>lers’ Code which will help you to ensure<br />

your trip does not threaten the sustainability of<br />

the places you visit. <strong>Audley</strong> supports the Friends<br />

of Conservation carbon offsetting scheme. For<br />

further details on how to offset the carbon<br />

emissions from your flight, please visit our website<br />

or talk to the country specialist arranging your<br />

trip. Throughout Canada and Alaska we make<br />

every effort to use properties and local operators<br />

that operate in a sustainable manner. <strong>Audley</strong><br />

supports a number of good causes through<br />

the <strong>Audley</strong> Charity Portfolio – please refer<br />

to www.audleytravel.com/rt for more details.<br />

Musk ox<br />

Group <strong>Travel</strong><br />

If you wish to travel with a group of friends –<br />

maybe with a special interest in common – we<br />

can make all the arrangements. For larger groups<br />

we may be able to offer a free place to the<br />

organiser. Please call us to discuss your plans.<br />

www.audleytravel.com<br />

If you are looking for travel inspiration, <strong>Audley</strong>’s<br />

website is full of journey ideas, month-by-month<br />

suggestions, destination guides, slideshows, articles<br />

and special features, responsible tourism details<br />

and a useful travel information section.<br />

Terms & Conditions<br />

and Insurance<br />

Your booking is subject to the Terms and<br />

Conditions of <strong>Audley</strong> <strong>Travel</strong>, which are detailed<br />

in a separate leaflet. It is vital that you have<br />

adequate travel insurance and we are able to<br />

offer a number of policies either for the duration<br />

of your trip or on an annual basis.<br />

Introduction<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

5


<strong>Audley</strong> in Canada and Alaska<br />

6<br />

Almost unimaginably large, Canada<br />

stretches from the Pacific Ocean in the<br />

west to the Atlantic Ocean in the east and<br />

borders the Arctic Circle. It is a land of rugged<br />

mountains and giant lakes, dense forests and<br />

rolling prairies; home to bears, wolves and<br />

herds of caribou that roam the great swathes<br />

of northern wilderness tundra. Impossible to<br />

see all in one trip, the following pages include<br />

brief guides to the provinces and territories<br />

that are designed to give you a flavour of<br />

what there is to see and do in each.<br />

Wild flowers in the Rockies<br />

British Columbia<br />

Gateway to the Pacific and Asia, British Columbia<br />

is perhaps best known for its coast. A chain of<br />

islands protects the Inside Passage where the<br />

Coastal Mountains rear 2,000 metres above<br />

spectacular fjords, calving icebergs into the sea<br />

from countless glaciers in a dramatic and wild<br />

landscape. These are some of the world’s greatest<br />

whale-watching waters, rich in marine life of all<br />

kinds. The city of Vancouver is beautifully set<br />

amongst these mountains and is consistently<br />

judged one of the world’s most liveable cities:<br />

with an average age of 38 it is dynamic, exciting<br />

and cosmopolitan. Head inland and BC shelters<br />

some of Canada’s most beautiful and untouched<br />

wilderness regions: it is one of North America’s<br />

most mountainous areas and the interior is a<br />

paradise for grizzly and black bears, moose, elk<br />

and wolves. BC is rich in First Nations history;<br />

along the temperate coastal regions totem poles<br />

still attest to ancient civilisations.<br />

Alberta<br />

Banff National Park, Lake Louise and the Rocky<br />

Mountains form the strongest images of Alberta, a<br />

huge and thinly-populated province that stretches<br />

from southern mountains and foothills and fades,<br />

to the north, into vast forested plains. Once<br />

home to Blackfoot, Cree, Gros Ventre and<br />

Kootenay Indians, change came slowly to this<br />

unspoiled region. It still has some of Canada’s<br />

most important UNESCO Heritage Sites of First<br />

Nations culture, including Head Smashed-in<br />

Buffalo Jump and Writing-on-Stone Provincial<br />

Park. The largest city is Calgary, an oil-rich highrise<br />

settlement whose veneer of sophistication<br />

falls away, each year, with the Calgary Stampede.<br />

At this time it plays host to the year’s largest<br />

rodeo and the cowboy culture rules supreme.<br />

Saskatchewan & Manitoba<br />

Canada’s prairie heartlands extend across<br />

Saskatchewan and Manitoba, rolling wheat<br />

landscapes, dotted with grain elevators, that<br />

stretch endlessly into the distance. Few tour<br />

operators feature this region but there are plenty<br />

of reasons to visit. Its remote wilderness regions<br />

were home to some of the great conflicts<br />

between native peoples and settlers: the Big<br />

Muddy Badlands were the resting place to which<br />

Sitting Bull retreated after his battle with General


The prairies of Saskatchewan and Manitoba<br />

Custer. Later the town of Moose Jaw grew rich<br />

smuggling alcohol into Prohibition America, and<br />

the Royal Canadian Mounties were established to<br />

calm a lawless region: their training centre is at<br />

Regina. Across the border in Manitoba, the<br />

provincial capital is Winnipeg, a friendly and<br />

approachable city that takes great pride in its<br />

independent refinement, while to the north the<br />

province reaches up to the great Canadian Shield,<br />

ice-scraped rock that leads onto the Hudson Bay<br />

where beluga whales frolic in the chilly waters and<br />

polar bears pace the shore.<br />

Ontario<br />

Niagara Falls are unquestionably Ontario’s bestknown<br />

attraction, a post-card perfect image of<br />

Canada to send back home, but this is just a<br />

foretaste of the province’s many attractions.<br />

Ontario is home to Canada’s capital city, Ottawa,<br />

and its largest metropolis, Toronto - a cultural<br />

melting pot alive with the dynamism of this young<br />

nation. One sixth of the province is covered with<br />

water and the Great Lakes dominate the<br />

southern lowlands, including the largest freshwater<br />

surface area in the world, Lake Superior. This is a<br />

beautiful region for exploring by car, from the<br />

pretty town of Goderich on the shores of Lake<br />

Huron to Algonquin Provincial Park with its<br />

canoeing, hiking and wolves. In this province the<br />

First Nations culture lives on: on Manitoulin Island<br />

the local tribes hold pow-wows every summer<br />

and in the northern regions visitors can explore<br />

with Cree guides. Although part of Canada’s most<br />

populous province, the shores of Hudson Bay can<br />

even now, rarely be reached by road; sea and air<br />

are still your only travel options, enabling you to<br />

discover a whole new world.<br />

Niagara Falls, Ontario<br />

Québec<br />

The province of Québec is proudly Francophone,<br />

with very Gallic traditions of fine restaurants and<br />

pavement cafés. This is strongest in the southern<br />

cities, the arty and refined Montréal and the<br />

atmospherically walled city of Québec. Head out<br />

from the urban centres and the province changes<br />

in character. To the west, vast unvisited tracts of<br />

tundra reach out to the distant shores of Hudson<br />

Bay. The St Lawrence River was the original<br />

lifeline that allowed travel into the Québec<br />

hinterland and this mighty river is home to<br />

migrating whales during the summer, including<br />

the world’s largest, the blue whale. On the south<br />

bank of the river exquisite forests drop down to<br />

the water’s edge on the Gaspésie Peninsula, while<br />

the north shore is home to the thriving arts of<br />

the Charlevoix region, and the beautiful natural<br />

landscapes of the Saguenay Fjord.<br />

Yukon delphiniums in bloom<br />

The Maritime Provinces<br />

The seaboard provinces of Nova Scotia, Prince<br />

Edward Island, New Brunswick, Newfoundland<br />

and Labrador make up Canada’s eastern<br />

seaboard. Mighty cliffs descend from the Torngat<br />

Mountains in Labrador and the precipitous fjords<br />

of Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park<br />

while, in iceberg season, huge white leviathans<br />

drift slowly along the shoreline in the direction<br />

of warmer waters. The Bay of Fundy experiences<br />

the world’s highest tidal range, creating raging<br />

torrents and tidal bores. The salmon-rich rivers<br />

of New Brunswick lie alongside the pastoral<br />

idyll of historic Acadia while the strong Celtic<br />

heritage of Nova Scotia is home to ceilidhs,<br />

sea-shanties, quaint fishing villages and a rich<br />

maritime culture. Beautiful scenery combined<br />

with abundant marine and terrestrial wildlife<br />

makes the Maritime Provinces an excellent region<br />

for exploring by road.<br />

Yukon<br />

Rich with the romance of the Klondike gold rush,<br />

the Yukon presents the classic face of Canada:<br />

a wilderness region where narrow ribbons of<br />

civilisation have been laid down by pioneers but<br />

much of the country still awaits exploration. Many<br />

of the gold rush towns are still largely unchanged:<br />

step into Dawson for streets lined with wooden<br />

clapperboard houses evoking the ghosts of a bygone<br />

age. Most of the land is made up of forested<br />

mountains riven by rivers and scattered with lakes.<br />

Bears, wolves and moose vastly outnumber the<br />

population, with trappers’ log cabins forming<br />

toehold settlements in a truly wild environment.<br />

This is a great place to encounter First Nations<br />

cultures and this is where you'll find Canada’s only<br />

road that crosses the Arctic Circle, the unsealed<br />

Dempster Highway.<br />

Iceberg Alley, Newfoundland<br />

Nunavut<br />

Nunavut is an immense territory of tundra,<br />

plateaux and mountains that includes the Arctic<br />

archipelago: a hidden world until the age of air<br />

travel. This beautiful land is Canada’s newest<br />

territory, splitting from the Northwest Territories<br />

in 1999 to provide self-rule for the Inuit. Nunavut<br />

covers about one fifth of Canada’s land mass and<br />

stretches from Hudson Bay in the south to the<br />

Arctic islands in the north. The famed Northwest<br />

Passage wends its way through the northern<br />

islands making it the theatre for many historic<br />

arctic voyages. Nunavut, meaning ‘our land’ in<br />

the Inuktitut language, is home to 28 Inuit<br />

communities, the largest of which is Iqaluit with<br />

a population of 6,500. Accessible only by air and<br />

sea, this region is a cradle of Inuit cultures, the<br />

flowers of the Arctic tundra and the dancing<br />

celestial phenomenon of the Aurora Borealis.<br />

A plethora of wildlife inhabits these desolate<br />

lands, with polar bears, arctic foxes, whales,<br />

narwhals, walrus, musk oxen and herds of caribou<br />

often seen. To visit in the summer is to discover<br />

a unique mix of culture, wilderness and wildlife..<br />

Alaska<br />

Crossing over the border from British Colombia<br />

or the Yukon, Alaska is a vast outpost of the USA<br />

in the Arctic world, an astounding region of<br />

untouched natural beauty and hidden mineral<br />

wealth. Along the coast some of North America’s<br />

highest mountains feed more than half the world’s<br />

glaciers, an epic sight as they calve icebergs into<br />

chill waters. Expedition cruises operate in these<br />

waters using zodiacs to discover breathtaking<br />

coastlines and the plethora of wildlife. The interior<br />

is just as beautiful, ideal for discovering by car or<br />

train, with good road and rail systems linking<br />

Canada’s Yukon to make circular, round-trip<br />

routes possible and rewarding.<br />

Introduction<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

7


Getting Around<br />

8<br />

There are many options for the traveller<br />

to explore Canada and Alaska, and<br />

very often it makes sense to use a variety of<br />

transport arrangements to link the many<br />

sights. The following sections may help you<br />

make your decisions; however, the best thing<br />

to do is call one of our Canada and Alaska<br />

specialists, who have all travelled extensively<br />

around these regions using a variety of<br />

different modes of transport. They will be able<br />

to discuss the options and tailor-make an<br />

itinerary most suited to your requirements.<br />

Glacier landing flight<br />

Flights<br />

At <strong>Audley</strong> we can provide you a choice of airlines<br />

and routes, though Air Canada and British Airways<br />

have the greatest variety of direct flights. We can help<br />

you reduce your travel time by arranging regional U.K.<br />

departures, whilst on the international flights you may<br />

want to consider upgrading to a premium economy<br />

or business class service, for which we obtain very<br />

favourable rates. Seeing Canada and Alaska from the<br />

air is a truly stunning experience and helicopters,<br />

float-planes and fixed-wing aircraft offer wonderful<br />

alternatives to travelling overland. Many remote<br />

wilderness lodges can only be accessed by air,<br />

providing a thrilling start to your stay. Flights can be<br />

used strategically to link distant sights, or can be<br />

combined in a more substantial touring itinerary.<br />

Self-Drive<br />

Canada and Alaska have wonderful roads – scenic,<br />

safe and largely empty. You may not wish to start<br />

driving immediately after an international flight as<br />

driving is on the right side of the road, so we can<br />

arrange to have you met at the airport and taken to<br />

your hotel. Alternatively, there are car rental depots<br />

at most airports and we can ensure a car is waiting for<br />

those who wish to be on the road within minutes<br />

of landing. We will book all your accommodation in<br />

advance and provide you with clear and detailed<br />

driving instructions leaving you free to relax and enjoy<br />

the many scenic delights that you will pass on the way.<br />

Motor-homes<br />

Hiring a motor-home is a superb way of exploring<br />

at your own pace without packing and unpacking.<br />

Campgrounds are often found amidst wonderful<br />

scenery with excellent facilities at very reasonable<br />

prices, not to mention the camaraderie of fellow<br />

campers. A range of well-equipped vehicles is<br />

available, depending on the space you require, and<br />

there are depots in all the principal gateway cities.<br />

Float-planes<br />

An iconic symbol of Canada is the float-plane, or<br />

seaplane. In a vast and rugged country where the<br />

only flat areas are often the waters of rivers and<br />

lakes, float-planes are the perfect mode of<br />

transport. Any flight on these light aircraft is a<br />

thrilling experience, whether your destination is a<br />

wilderness lake or if you are simply using a coastal<br />

city harbour to explore the skyline from the air.


Lyubov Orlova<br />

Cruises<br />

Canada, Alaska and the Arctic offer some truly<br />

wonderful cruising opportunities on a wide variety<br />

of ships. Our preference leans towards expedition<br />

cruising on smaller vessels because this offers a<br />

more personal and experience-focused trip. On<br />

the smaller vessels the on-board wildlife, geology<br />

and photography experts are more approachable<br />

and inflatable zodiac landing craft make it easy to<br />

explore on land. You can expect to see an<br />

abundance of wildlife such as bears, whales and<br />

birds as well as some truly grand scenery.<br />

Whether you wish to cruise the Atlantic coast’s<br />

Maritime Provinces, the Pacific coast of British<br />

Columbia and Alaska or stray well within the<br />

Arctic Circle, we can help choose the vessel<br />

most appropriate to your specific requirements.<br />

Ferries<br />

Canada and Alaska have some stunning<br />

coastlines and these are often best explored by<br />

ferry. The famous Inside Passage route explores<br />

western British Columbia and the Alaska<br />

Panhandle whilst the Alaska Marine Highway<br />

serves a broad network of remote communities<br />

throughout Alaska. In eastern Canada ferries link<br />

parts of Québec to Prince Edward Island while<br />

there are many ferry routes throughout the<br />

Maritime Provinces. The vessels operating the<br />

longer crossings are modern and well-equipped<br />

with a wide range of facilities.<br />

A float-plane flight to the remote wilderness<br />

Rail Journeys<br />

The vast wilds of Canada and Alaska were tamed<br />

by rail, and even now the land is crossed by some<br />

of the world’s most iconic rail journeys. Possibly the<br />

best known of these is the Canadian, the great<br />

transcontinental journey that links Toronto and<br />

Vancouver. Other great routes include the Rocky<br />

Mountaineer and the Alaska Railroad. No visit to<br />

the region is complete without experiencing one of<br />

these magnificent journeys on which you can relax<br />

with a good book, socialise with fellow passengers<br />

or just sit back and enjoy the timeless rhythm of<br />

the tracks as you watch the landscape unfold from<br />

your window. Many of the trains offer a choice of<br />

seating: comfortable reclining seats are the standard<br />

option but it is highly recommended to up-grade to<br />

premium accommodation where you’ll find all the<br />

romance and sophistication of a classic rail journey,<br />

along with the best Canadian cuisine served in the<br />

stylish dining car with china, silverware and linen,<br />

and accompanied by a selection of Canadian wines.<br />

Many of the trains have observation domes for a<br />

360 degree view of your surroundings while<br />

sleeper routes mean you can fall asleep to the<br />

rhythm of the rails in a cosy private bedroom,<br />

covering the miles in total comfort.<br />

THE CANADIAN<br />

Considered one of the world’s great rail journeys,<br />

the Canadian offers the ultimate transcontinental<br />

train trip. It travels between Toronto and<br />

Vancouver, crossing the scenic lakelands of northern<br />

Ontario, touring the western plains of the prairies<br />

and climbing through the splendid Canadian Rockies<br />

before finishing its epic journey three days later on<br />

the Pacific coast of British Columbia.<br />

THE HUDSON BAY<br />

For a total change of scene, head north on<br />

board the Hudson Bay train for a 1,700 kilometre<br />

journey to northern Manitoba. Leaving Winnipeg<br />

in the heart of the southern prairies, you travel to<br />

Churchill, a city in the vast sub-arctic region on<br />

the shores of Hudson Bay.<br />

THE OCEAN<br />

A journey on the Ocean between Montréal and<br />

Halifax provides a wonderful glimpse of Canada’s<br />

past. <strong>Travel</strong> past the early settlements of eastern<br />

Québec, along the wooded coast of New<br />

Brunswick and past the fields and towns of vibrant<br />

old French and English communities before<br />

arriving in the port city of Halifax.<br />

THE SKEENA<br />

Plunging deep into the wilds of British Columbia,<br />

the Skeena takes you on a 1,160 kilometre journey<br />

past the highest peaks of the Rockies, countless<br />

lakes, waterfalls, frontier settlements and forested<br />

mountain slopes. This breathtaking route transports<br />

you between Prince Rupert on the Pacific coast<br />

and Jasper in the heart of the Rocky Mountains.<br />

Lasting two days, the journey necessitates an<br />

overnight stay in Prince George en route, where<br />

we can arrange hotel accommodation.<br />

THE ROCKY MOUNTAINEER<br />

The Rocky Mountaineer is one of Canada’s<br />

best-known trains, operating during the summer<br />

months between Jasper, Banff, Calgary and<br />

Vancouver. This two-day journey includes an<br />

overnight stay in Kamloops en route so you can<br />

travel the entire spectacular course in daylight.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> through the arid grasslands and canyons<br />

of the central Cariboo, pass thundering waterfalls,<br />

burrow through mountain tunnels and skirt the<br />

mighty snow-capped peaks of the Rocky<br />

Mountains. Two classes of service are available -<br />

Red and Gold Leaf - both with guided<br />

commentary. Red Leaf provides reclining seats<br />

and meals served at your seat. Gold Leaf<br />

passengers are seated in the superb bi-level<br />

glass-dome coach, which provides a wonderful<br />

viewing platform, while gourmet meals are served<br />

below in the dining car. Other routes offered by<br />

Rocky Mountaineer include a daily summer<br />

service between Vancouver and Whistler and<br />

onward services from Whistler to Jasper via the<br />

charming rural town of Quesnel.<br />

The Rocky Mountaineer<br />

THE ALASKA RAILROAD<br />

It took eight years and 4,500 men to build the<br />

Alaska Railroad, a 756 kilometre railway from the<br />

ice-free port of Seward to the town of Fairbanks.<br />

The Alaska Railroad still runs through some of the<br />

state’s most breathtaking scenery, including Denali<br />

National Park, making it a perfect form of transport<br />

for lovers of wilderness and awe-inspiring vistas.<br />

Please see page 104 for further information.<br />

YUKON & WHITE PASS RAILROAD<br />

Built in 1898 during the Klondike gold rush, the<br />

Yukon and White Pass Railroad that links<br />

Whitehorse in the Yukon with Skagway in Alaska<br />

encompasses some of the world’s steepest gradients<br />

and greatest feats of engineering as it travels through<br />

some of the most dramatic scenery imaginable.<br />

Please see page 108 for further information.<br />

Getting Around<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

9


Wildlife<br />

Canada and Alaska are known for their<br />

huge tracts of pristine wilderness, the<br />

sheer scale of which has done much to protect<br />

the abundant concentrations of animals.<br />

Close encounters with wildlife are frequently<br />

superb. The nutrient-rich seas attract some of<br />

the world’s greatest concentrations of seabirds<br />

but also support countless marine mammals:<br />

Canada’s coast can offer some of the world’s<br />

best whale sightings. On land the large<br />

mammals comfortably outnumber the<br />

human population. Here it is possible to see<br />

polar bears hunt from ice floes, black bears<br />

slouch through the woods and grizzly bears<br />

fish salmon out of fast-flowing rivers.<br />

Bison still congregate in herds while elk,<br />

moose, caribou and musk oxen provide<br />

thrilling encounters.<br />

Bears<br />

One of the delights of travelling in Canada and<br />

Alaska is the very real chance that you will see a<br />

bear. The two species that you are likely to<br />

encounter are grizzly and black bears. Black bears<br />

are smaller than the grizzly and lack the distinctive<br />

hump on the back of the neck. In the spring,<br />

bears emerge from hibernation to mate and to<br />

feed. Their diet consists of all kinds of vegetable<br />

matter including berries, flowers, grasses and<br />

sedges as well as fish, insects, honey and even<br />

elk and moose. The largest populations of grizzly<br />

bears are in Alaska, British Columbia and the<br />

Northwest Territories. Kodiak Island in Alaska<br />

is renowned for being home to the largest<br />

grizzlies in the world while nearby Brooks Falls<br />

in Katmai National Park is home to the thrilling<br />

spectacle of grizzlies catching salmon as they<br />

leap up the falls. The rare kermode, or spirit bear,<br />

is unique to remote parts of coastal British<br />

Columbia and due to a recessive gene has a<br />

distinctive white coat. These bears, related to<br />

black bears, are agile salmon catchers and are<br />

a thrill to see in their natural setting.<br />

Polar Bears<br />

One of the most thrilling sights in the Arctic is to<br />

see Ursus Maritimus, the world’s largest bear, in<br />

its native environment. In the autumn bears<br />

congregate near the small northern Manitoba town<br />

of Churchill waiting for the ice to freeze in order<br />

to hunt for seals. During the summer months polar<br />

bears are seen at the mouth of the Seal River on<br />

Hudson Bay and in the vast and untamed lands of<br />

the northern tundra where small ship cruises and<br />

specialist lodges offer thrilling opportunities to see<br />

these magnificent bears in their natural habitat –<br />

often swimming or foraging amongst the fireweed.<br />

Wolves<br />

Often vilified and hunted almost to extinction, there<br />

are now estimated to be over 50,000 wolves across<br />

Canada and Alaska, occupying over 80 percent of<br />

their original range. The grey wolf is also known as<br />

the timber wolf and prefers the open tundra and<br />

forest habitat where it will live in packs of five to<br />

twenty animals, depending on the abundance of<br />

prey. Their main food sources are moose and elk<br />

which they hunt in teams, primarily at night. You are<br />

most likely to see wolves at dawn or sunset but<br />

10


Big horn sheep<br />

Atlantic puffins<br />

Orcas cruising<br />

Bald eagle in flight<br />

they are extremely elusive and you’re more likely<br />

to hear their calls than get direct sightings. They’re<br />

most often seen in Alaska’s Denali National Park,<br />

on the Bow Valley Parkway near Lake Louise, and<br />

in Ontario’s Algonquin Provincial Park.<br />

Caribou<br />

To see a family of caribou in their tundra home<br />

is an impressive sight. Imagine then what it must<br />

be like to see one of North America’s last true<br />

migrations - the great herds of caribou, hundreds<br />

of thousands strong, that traverse thousands of<br />

kilometres across the barren tundra, following<br />

the fresh grass growth and harried by packs of<br />

wolves. A journey to the north is bound to bring<br />

you close to these magnificent animals and will<br />

surely be a highlight of your trip.<br />

Moose<br />

The moose is the largest member of the deer<br />

family and is found in forests from Alaska all the<br />

way across to the eastern tip of Newfoundland.<br />

The bulls of these imposing animals can grow larger<br />

than the tallest horse and have a rack of antlers<br />

spanning over one and a half metres in width. They<br />

have poor eyesight, skinny legs under a bulky body<br />

and a long, mournful-looking snout giving them an<br />

almost comic appearance. Some of the best places<br />

to see moose include New Brunswick, Algonquin<br />

Provincial Park and Banff and Jasper National Parks.<br />

Grizzly bears catching salmon<br />

Musk Oxen<br />

Natives of Arctic Canada, Greenland and Alaska,<br />

musk oxen are neither oxen, nor do they have<br />

musk glands; being closely related to sheep or<br />

goats. They are noted for their thick shaggy coats,<br />

long curved horns and for the strong odour<br />

emitted by the males. Their thick coats enable<br />

them to survive bitterly cold winter temperatures.<br />

Sociable animals, they usually live in herds of<br />

between ten to twenty animals but sometimes<br />

the herd can number several hundred. Musk<br />

oxen, or their ancestors, are believed to have<br />

migrated to North America between 90,000 and<br />

200,000 years ago making them a contemporary<br />

of the woolly mammoth. The largest population is<br />

on Banks Island in the Northwest Territories but<br />

herds can be found all over the northern tundra.<br />

Whales<br />

Canada and Alaska are two of the best places in<br />

the world to watch a wide variety of whales<br />

during the summer months. Humpbacks, minke<br />

and finback whales are found off the coast of<br />

Newfoundland while northern right whales and<br />

humpbacks are found slightly to the south in the<br />

Bay of Fundy. The St. Lawrence River is home to<br />

13 species of whale, including the world’s largest,<br />

the blue whale, and a large number of white<br />

beluga whales, which are also to be found<br />

Bull caribou<br />

gathering in Hudson Bay and Arctic waters. Rare<br />

narwhal can be spotted in the Arctic whilst orcas<br />

and grey whales can be found in abundance off<br />

the coasts of Vancouver Island and Alaska.<br />

Birds<br />

This vast region has an incredible variety of bird<br />

species, both resident and migratory. Alaska and<br />

western British Columbia are renowned for huge<br />

populations of bald eagles whilst the cliffs of the<br />

Maritime Provinces echo to the enthralling<br />

cacophony of shrieks and calls of some of the<br />

world’s largest seabird colonies, providing ideal<br />

nesting conditions for thousands of kittiwakes,<br />

murres and razorbills. The Queen Charlotte Islands<br />

are known as the ‘Canadian Galapagos’ and a third<br />

of the world’s population of murrelets nest here<br />

along with horned puffins and Peales peregrine<br />

falcons. Oak Hammock Marsh in southern Manitoba<br />

is one of the finest bird sanctuaries on the continent<br />

where each autumn up to half a million geese arrive<br />

on their way south. Other notable places to see<br />

birds are the remarkable Point Pelee National Park<br />

in Ontario, and the Île Bonaventure in Québec<br />

which, with 60,000 birds, is home to North<br />

America’s largest gannet colony.<br />

Wildlife<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

11


Outdoor Activities<br />

As a vast region that is blessed with some<br />

of the world’s most dramatic and<br />

beautiful scenery, Canada and Alaska is a<br />

mecca for the outdoor enthusiast. Stunning<br />

wilderness drives are yours alone and whether<br />

you’re travelling by car or motor-home, once<br />

you are mobile you can choose where to go and<br />

what activities you want to include in your<br />

tailor-made trip. Each province offers a<br />

diversity of year-round activities; here are<br />

some of the most popular ones.<br />

Walking<br />

For those who love walking, Canada is<br />

unsurpassable in its variety. Memorable day walks<br />

can be found in abundance, but there are also<br />

many renowned hikes lasting several days, such as<br />

Vancouver Island’s West Coast Trail. The Rockies<br />

have more than their fair share of stunning trails<br />

in the forests and meadows above the tree line<br />

that burst into colour each spring. As a special<br />

treat, it is possible to enjoy guided walking while<br />

staying in the mountains at a remote lodge and<br />

heli-hiking near mountain peaks. The hikes in<br />

British Columbia’s Wells Gray Provincial Park<br />

give you a particularly good chance of excellent<br />

wildlife viewing while in Ontario’s Algonquin<br />

Provincial Park you can howl with the wolves.<br />

Nahanni National Park in the Northwest<br />

Territories is a pristine wilderness rich in waterfalls<br />

and fast flowing rivers. Québec’s Laurentians are<br />

delightful, particularly during the autumn when the<br />

deciduous trees are a riot of colour, whilst in<br />

Newfoundland Gros Morne National Park’s<br />

dramatic fjords have been dubbed the ‘Galapagos<br />

of Geology’ with their ancient rocks telling the<br />

story of the formation of our planet. Canada and<br />

Alaska truly offer some of the most exhilarating<br />

and diverse walking terrain anywhere.<br />

Float Trips &<br />

White-Water Rafting<br />

Though many of Canada’s rivers can be navigated<br />

by canoe, more tranquil journeys are offered on<br />

floating pontoons or inflatable boats: gently<br />

drifting through forested rivers where wildlife is<br />

unconcerned at the waters’ edge and the<br />

humdrum world of road traffic and other<br />

visitors seems far away. For adrenaline seekers,<br />

white-water rafting is the big attraction. Generally,<br />

whether you are a novice, have children with you<br />

or are looking for a big thrill then professional raft<br />

companies can cater to your needs.<br />

Canoeing & Kayaking<br />

With just under 250,000 kilometres of coastline,<br />

well over 100,000 kilometres of navigable river<br />

and countless lakes, Canada and Alaska have<br />

innumerable opportunities for canoeing and<br />

kayaking along pristine shores or sparkling rivers.<br />

The possibilities are virtually limitless: you can take<br />

an easy peaceful paddle or hurl yourself into a<br />

torrent of white water. Sea kayaking is growing in<br />

popularity, so whether you want to kayak in the<br />

tidal races of the Bay of Fundy or paddle amongst<br />

orcas off the coast of Vancouver Island your<br />

choices are endless.<br />

Horse Riding<br />

Horse riding is a great way to reach backcountry<br />

trails with the minimum of effort and can be<br />

arranged in most of Canada’s provinces for all<br />

levels of experience and fitness. Whether you<br />

want a one hour ride or a backcountry tour<br />

12


Fly fishing<br />

Heli-hiking mountain lodge<br />

Mountain biking<br />

White-water rafting<br />

lasting several days, the western-style saddle lends<br />

itself to comfortable and easy trail riding where<br />

you can experience the wilderness in much the<br />

same way as the original settlers.<br />

Fishing<br />

It is hard to think of a region of the world that<br />

offers better fishing than Canada and Alaska,<br />

where the sport is a national pastime. Freshwater<br />

fishing for huge lake trout, char, carp, grayling or<br />

pike is available in many places and if you are a<br />

winter visitor then perhaps ice fishing will take<br />

your fancy. Sea fishing takes things to another<br />

level: you can catch halibut of up to 45<br />

kilogrammes off the shores of Homer in Alaska<br />

or fly fish for sharks in Nova Scotia. For many<br />

people, the highlight of fishing in Canada has to<br />

be for salmon of which there are six varieties;<br />

Atlantic, sockeye, coho, chum, pink and the<br />

mighty chinook. Newfoundland offers the majority<br />

of Atlantic salmon fishing but British Columbia’s<br />

Clayoquot Sound, during the August salmon run,<br />

is arguably the best of the best.<br />

Aurora Borealis<br />

The dramatic Aurora Borealis, or the Northern<br />

Lights, are thought to be the result of particles in<br />

solar winds emanating from the sun in the region<br />

of the magnetic north pole. They can be seen as<br />

Joining the cattle drive<br />

undulating ribbons of light shimmering in the night<br />

sky in a show that can last for hours or just a few<br />

minutes. One Inuit tale describes the lights as<br />

spirits playing ball in the sky with a walrus skull<br />

while another says that they are flaming torches<br />

carried by departed souls guiding travellers to the<br />

afterlife. The lights are on display two out of<br />

every three nights, but in the summer months the<br />

ambient light often makes it impossible to see<br />

them. Long winter nights with clear skies offer the<br />

best viewing, but the conditions are also good in<br />

late August, September and March in the Yukon<br />

and similar northern latitudes.<br />

Winter Activities<br />

Although most visitors arrive in Canada and<br />

Alaska between the months of May and October,<br />

there is actually a wide range of activities<br />

geared towards the winter weather. The cities<br />

remain vibrant throughout the year, many with<br />

life carrying on as normal in kilometres of covered<br />

walkways that connect shops and restaurants in<br />

defiance of the often inhospitable conditions<br />

outside. Visitors to Québec can stay at the Ice<br />

Hotel, lying on animal furs in a property sculpted<br />

from ice each autumn. The main attraction for<br />

many winter visitors though is the marvellous<br />

skiing to be had in Whistler, the Rockies,<br />

Mont-Tremblant and many other superb winter<br />

ski resorts found across the country. You can<br />

also try your hand at a wide range of other<br />

winter activities as well, including snow-mobiling,<br />

dog-sledding, snow-shoeing, ice-skating and<br />

even ice-fishing.<br />

Canoe at sunset<br />

Outdoor Activities<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

13


British Columbia<br />

14<br />

Beautiful British Columbia’ is boldly<br />

written on all the province’s car licence<br />

plates and BC, as it is commonly known, is<br />

where you’ll find many of Canada’s most<br />

fabulous natural features. A good place to<br />

begin is BC’s largest city, Vancouver, a young<br />

and vibrant metropolis that is consistently<br />

voted one of the world’s most attractive<br />

cities to live. This is easy to believe as it is<br />

overflowing with rich cultural experiences,<br />

‘<br />

exceptional wildlife viewing and plenty of<br />

outdoor activities for everyone. On Vancouver<br />

Island the provincial capital, Victoria, is a<br />

colonial gem, with an old-world charm and a<br />

mild Pacific climate. The province’s spectacular<br />

scenery includes the famed coastal Inside<br />

Passage, the old-growth rainforests and big<br />

surf beaches of Vancouver Island, the vast<br />

cowboy country of the Cariboo, the orchards<br />

and vineyards of the Okanagan Valley and the<br />

Kootenay Rockies with their bears, elk<br />

and eagles. The First Nations of the Pacific<br />

seaboard are renowned for their totem poles<br />

and longhouses and after many years of<br />

oppression the native cultures and arts are<br />

now resurgent. BC is four times the size<br />

of Great Britain and its northern half,<br />

bordered by Alaska and the Yukon, is a largely<br />

pristine wilderness of glaciers, fjords, lakes<br />

and waterfalls.


YUKON<br />

Atlin<br />

NORTHWEST<br />

TERRITORIES<br />

Fort Nelson<br />

Vancouver’s famous steam clock<br />

Vancouver<br />

Masset<br />

ALASKA<br />

Prince<br />

Rupert<br />

Stewart<br />

BRITISH<br />

COLUMBIA<br />

Khutzeymateen<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Smithers<br />

Fort<br />

St John<br />

This cosmopolitan city basks in a glorious natural<br />

setting, set on the water yet surrounded by the<br />

Coast Mountains. Downtown Vancouver,<br />

including historic Gastown, Chinatown and<br />

Granville Island, is compact and easily explored<br />

on foot. On the edge of the city you’ll find the<br />

huge expanse of Stanley Park with its ancient<br />

cedars and totem poles, the beaches of English<br />

Bay and Kitsilano, Grouse Mountain and the<br />

Capilano Suspension Bridge. A multi-cultural hub<br />

of the Pacific world, it has some of Canada’s finest<br />

and most varied restaurants, shops and most lively<br />

entertainment. Countless highlights include the<br />

Museum of Anthropology, renowned for its<br />

insights into First Nations culture, and the<br />

spectacular float-plane flight to Bowen Island.<br />

Queen<br />

Charlotte<br />

Islands<br />

Gwaii Hanaas<br />

National Park<br />

Sandspit<br />

Pacific Ocean<br />

Princess<br />

Royal<br />

Island<br />

Bella Bella<br />

Klemtu<br />

Port Hardy<br />

Telegraph<br />

Cove<br />

Vancouver<br />

Island<br />

0 100 miles<br />

0 160 kilometres<br />

Great Bear<br />

Rainforest<br />

Bella<br />

Coola<br />

Campbell<br />

River<br />

Tofino<br />

Knight<br />

Inlet<br />

VICTORIA<br />

Prince<br />

George<br />

Williams<br />

Lake 100 Mile<br />

House<br />

Lillooet<br />

Powell<br />

River Whistler<br />

Squamish<br />

Nanaimo<br />

Quesnel<br />

Vancouver<br />

Wells Gray<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Rocky Mountains<br />

Clearwater<br />

Revelstoke Golden<br />

Kamloops<br />

Kelowna<br />

Penticton<br />

Jasper<br />

Mount Robson<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Glacier<br />

NP<br />

Lake<br />

Okanagan<br />

ALBERTA<br />

Yoho<br />

NP<br />

Banff<br />

Kootenay<br />

National Park<br />

Purcell Wilderness<br />

Conservancy<br />

Fernie<br />

WEDGEWOOD HOTEL,<br />

VANCOUVER<br />

This award-winning Relais & Château hotel has<br />

a distinctly European sophistication and charm.<br />

Ideally located on Robson Square in the heart of<br />

downtown Vancouver, the privately-owned hotel<br />

has 89 luxuriously decorated rooms and suites, all<br />

elegantly furnished with antiques and original<br />

works of art. Rich fabrics, plush carpets and<br />

marble bathrooms are Wedgewood hallmarks,<br />

along with exemplary service. Bacchus, the<br />

renowned restaurant and bar, offers a truly<br />

epicurean dining experience whilst the hotel’s<br />

latest addition is a full-service spa.<br />

Penthouse Suite, Wedgewood Hotel<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Totem poles in British Columbia<br />

15


Aerial view of Vancouver<br />

SUTTON PLACE HOTEL,<br />

VANCOUVER<br />

Few hotels can rival the elegance, European<br />

charm and hospitality of the award-winning<br />

Sutton Place Hotel in the heart of downtown<br />

Vancouver. Luxury abounds, from the 397 lavishly<br />

appointed guest rooms, complete with marble<br />

bathrooms, to the English “club” style lounge and<br />

the full-service spa. The Fleuri restaurant provides<br />

innovative French cuisine and is a delightful<br />

venue for afternoon tea, whilst chocolate lovers<br />

shouldn’t miss the decadent chocoholic<br />

dessert buffet.<br />

The Listel Hotel<br />

BARCLAY HOUSE, VANCOUVER<br />

This charming bed and breakfast property, built in<br />

1904, is centrally located in the heart of the city’s<br />

West End, a delightful residential area that is still<br />

firmly downtown. There are just six rooms, many<br />

with claw-foot baths, hand-made furnishings and<br />

original local artwork. All rooms feature a DVD<br />

and CD player, wireless internet connection,<br />

mini-fridge, bathrobes and coffee maker. Breakfast<br />

is taken seriously here – there is a breakfast chef,<br />

his name is Art and he’s from Newfoundland –<br />

and each day starts with a classic Canadian feast.<br />

Sutton Place Hotel<br />

LISTEL HOTEL, VANCOUVER<br />

The Listel Hotel is a dynamic and interesting<br />

property that blends art with hospitality. There are<br />

129 rooms of various distinct styles: some feature<br />

original works of contemporary Canadian art<br />

whilst others showcase the work of the province’s<br />

coastal First Nations communities. The wide range<br />

of facilities includes a lounge, fitness room,<br />

underground car park and the renowned O’Doul’s<br />

restaurant and bar which has live jazz every night.<br />

Located on Robson Street, the hotel is just a short<br />

stroll away from most of the city’s major attractions.<br />

16<br />

Barclay House


Grand Canadian<br />

For those who wish to explore the myriad<br />

delights and charms of this huge country, the<br />

Grand Canadian is ideal. This itinerary uses rail<br />

to explore the historic charms of the eastern<br />

provinces, the natural wonders of Niagara Falls and<br />

the grandeur of the Rocky Mountain landscapes.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Halifax, the capital of<br />

Nova Scotia.<br />

Day 2<br />

Spend a full day exploring Halifax.<br />

Day 3<br />

Collect your hire car and drive south<br />

to the old fishing port of Lunenburg.<br />

Day 4<br />

Return to Halifax and board your<br />

onward flight to Montréal.<br />

Capilano Suspension Bridge, Vancouver<br />

Vancouver’s historic Gastown<br />

Day 5<br />

Explore Québec’s largest city,<br />

and perhaps take a cruise on the<br />

St. Lawrence River.<br />

Day 6<br />

Take the train from Montréal to<br />

Toronto for a three night stay.<br />

Day 7<br />

Enjoy a full day exploring Canada’s<br />

largest city.<br />

Day 8<br />

Take a full day tour to Niagara Falls.<br />

Day 9<br />

Board the Canadian train at<br />

the start of your epic journey<br />

across Canada.<br />

Day 10<br />

Continue your journey westwards<br />

across the vast prairie provinces.<br />

Museum of Anthropology, Vancouver<br />

Harbour Air Seaplanes<br />

Day 11<br />

Arrive in Jasper in the Rocky<br />

Mountains for a two night stay.<br />

Coastal Rainforest Adventure<br />

Harbour Air Seaplanes<br />

Day 12<br />

Spend a full day exploring Jasper<br />

National Park.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong>ling from the hubbub of downtown<br />

Vancouver you will arrive at the Lynn Canyon<br />

suspension bridge to experience a walk in the<br />

Capilano Canyon which affords captivating views<br />

of this magnificent rainforest. Here your<br />

experienced guide will explain all about the lichen,<br />

moss, ferns and flowering plants which grow<br />

under the mantle of some of the west coast’s<br />

oldest and largest trees. The giant cedars,<br />

hemlock and towering Douglas firs are truly<br />

magnificent. You will also visit British Columbia’s<br />

oldest known yew tree to learn all about the<br />

significant medical importance of these marvellous<br />

trees. This is one of the world’s most primitive<br />

ecosystems where you will learn and observe the<br />

life cycle of the Pacific salmon. Snacks and drinks<br />

are included in this sylvan setting before your<br />

return to the city.<br />

Vancouver to Victoria<br />

Whale Watching Cruise<br />

There really is nothing quite like seeing British<br />

Columbia through the window of a small<br />

float-plane. Harbour Air Seaplanes, operating<br />

out of Vancouver, Victoria and many of the<br />

Gulf Islands, offer a full scheduled service for<br />

commuters and those on holiday alike. Not only<br />

can passengers take a scenic flight instead of a<br />

long ferry journey, but they can also enjoy some<br />

of the quirkier options such as an evening fly and<br />

dine package or the two hour post run to deliver<br />

mail to tiny coastal villages.<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Day 19<br />

Day 20<br />

Take a guided coach tour along<br />

Icefields Parkway, one of Canada’s<br />

most scenic highways, to Banff.<br />

Enjoy a full day in the mountain<br />

town of Banff.<br />

Board the Rocky Mountaineer train<br />

for your journey from Banff to<br />

Kamloops.<br />

Continue on board the Rocky<br />

Mountaineer to Vancouver.<br />

Vancouver’s many sights and shops<br />

beckon you to explore today.<br />

Board a float-plane for a thrilling<br />

flight to Victoria. Enjoy a whale<br />

watching trip before the return<br />

flight to Vancouver.<br />

Spend your last day exploring<br />

Vancouver.<br />

Depart Vancouver at the end<br />

of your stay.<br />

A marvellous way of getting from Vancouver to<br />

Victoria in just four hours is by a 20 metre<br />

cruiser. Passing through the Gulf and San Juan<br />

islands the boat searches for marine mammals<br />

including resident orcas. A heated inside cabin<br />

and two outdoor viewing decks ensure wildlife<br />

viewing in comfort.<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Stanley Park totem poles<br />

17


Whale watching from Victoria<br />

Victoria<br />

Named for Queen Victoria, this garden city is<br />

situated in the south of Vancouver Island and is<br />

the capital of British Columbia. Compact and easily<br />

navigated, it lends itself to discovery on foot, in a<br />

horse-drawn carriage or, thrillingly, from a lowflying<br />

float-plane. Victoria is adorned with some<br />

lovely colonial architecture such as the Parliament<br />

Buildings while the Empress Hotel is an historic<br />

gem, an excellent place to take afternoon tea. The<br />

nearby Butchart Gardens are world-renowned, as<br />

is the Royal British Columbia Museum while other<br />

attractions include Craigdarroch Castle, the home<br />

of artist Emily Carr, and orca whales which visit the<br />

waters off the island in the summer.<br />

Laurel Point Inn<br />

Ambrosia B&B<br />

LAUREL POINT INN, VICTORIA<br />

Nestled in Victoria’s Inner Harbour on a two<br />

hectare peninsula, the Laurel Point Inn is surrounded<br />

by the ocean and a lush Japanese garden but is still<br />

just ten minutes walk from the city’s trendy bistros,<br />

shops, museums and art galleries. Each of the 200<br />

guest rooms has a delightful water view and a<br />

private balcony, with the best being the south<br />

wing studio suites featuring huge marble bathrooms<br />

and large balconies with patio furniture. The Café<br />

Laurel serves breakfast and dinner whilst Cooks<br />

Landing Lounge is the perfect water-front venue for<br />

lunch, dinner or cocktails. In addition, there is an<br />

indoor swimming pool, hot tub and complimentary<br />

valet parking.<br />

AMBROSIA B&B, VICTORIA<br />

This intimate 1897 heritage bed and breakfast<br />

offers romance and relaxation. Ambrosia is<br />

located right in the heart of downtown Victoria,<br />

just three blocks from the inner harbour and an<br />

easy stroll to Beacon Hill Park. There are just<br />

four charming rooms, all individually decorated<br />

to the highest standard in a mix of classic and<br />

contemporary designs. Each room has down<br />

feather beds and duvets, large jetted baths and<br />

heated tile floors. A four-course gourmet<br />

breakfast is included daily and your charming<br />

hosts, Gae and Gavin, will help make the most<br />

of your time in Victoria.<br />

Whale watching from Victoria<br />

The waters around Victoria are home to<br />

three resident pods of orcas, or killer whales.<br />

Famously savage but graceful, these magnificent<br />

sea mammals can be seen from 14-metre ocean<br />

cruisers or inflatable zodiacs, both fast and<br />

stable, on trips that also often sight minke and<br />

grey whales, porpoises and harbour seals, with<br />

a commentary provided by on board<br />

marine biologists.<br />

18


Victoria Harbour Red Crow on the Waterfront Butchart Gardens<br />

Chesterman Beach and the Wickaninnish Inn<br />

Tofino<br />

The small town of Tofino lies at the centre of<br />

Clayoquot Sound on Vancouver Island’s Pacific<br />

coast, poised between the crashing surf of Pacific<br />

rollers and towering rainforests inland. Recently<br />

designated British Columbia’s first UNESCO<br />

Biosphere Reserve, the surrounding Pacific Rim<br />

National Park is a naturalist’s paradise. The annual<br />

Pacific Rim Whale Festival takes place in March<br />

and for the two months that follow nearly 20,000<br />

grey whales pass within five kilometres of the<br />

shore on their migration north from Mexico.<br />

Black bears forage along the shoreline in giant<br />

cedar and ancient Sitka spruce rainforests while<br />

eagles swoop overhead: magical hiking country.<br />

RED CROW ON THE<br />

WATERFRONT, TOFINO<br />

Set in almost three hectares of private old<br />

growth rainforest on the edge of an intertidal<br />

waterway, guests at the Red Crow look out over<br />

a landscape shared with river otters, racoons,<br />

black bears and wolves, as well as many of the<br />

150 wild bird species of Clayoquot Sound. There<br />

are just two guest rooms in the main house and<br />

a cottage in the garden where you may be joined<br />

briefly by the local black bear who frequently<br />

forages along the shore. Rowing boats, canoes<br />

and bicycles are available and the lovely Tofino<br />

Botanical Gardens are a five minute walk along<br />

the shore, with complimentary admission for<br />

Red Crow guests.<br />

The Wickaninnish Inn<br />

THE OUTPOST AT BEDWELL RIVER,<br />

CLAYOQUOT SOUND<br />

Clayoquot Sound is a fragile and breathtaking<br />

temperate rainforest surrounded by calming rivers<br />

and wild coastal beaches. At the heart of this<br />

stunning setting lies a very special retreat: the<br />

Outpost at Bedwell River, which consists of 23<br />

deluxe en suite canvas guest tents decked out<br />

with opulent rugs, antique furnishings, down<br />

duvets, propane stoves and Aveda toiletries.<br />

Other tents serve as dining room, lounge and fullservice<br />

spa. Treading lightly on this pristine<br />

environment this tranquil retreat is a very civilised<br />

way of going back to nature.<br />

THE WICKANINNISH INN, TOFINO<br />

This is one of our favourite hotels, combining<br />

comfort and sophistication with a beautiful ocean<br />

setting, a Relais & Château property that has been<br />

frequently recognised in international awards. A<br />

further annexe, “Wickaninnish on the Beach”<br />

opened four years ago and these additional 30<br />

rooms complement the existing 48 rooms and<br />

suites of the Pointe building. The Pointe<br />

restaurant is the only four diamond restaurant<br />

north of Victoria and offers renowned cuisine -<br />

reservations are highly recommended.<br />

The Outpost at Bedwell River<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Black bear<br />

19


20<br />

Chasing salmon<br />

Northern Vancouver Island<br />

The north of Vancouver Island is wonderful for<br />

lovers of nature and wildlife. Much of this region<br />

consists of rugged unspoilt wilderness such as the<br />

huge Strathcona Provincial Park, honeycombed<br />

by an extensive network of underground caves.<br />

The region’s largest town is Campbell River,<br />

particularly renowned for its chinook salmon<br />

fishing and for the views over the Strait of<br />

Georgia. Nearby Quadra Island has fine sandy<br />

beaches and a distinct flavour of its First Nations’<br />

heritage, well represented in the Kwagiulth<br />

Museum and Cultural Centre, whilst nearby<br />

Cortes Island has some of North America’s finest<br />

sailing and kayaking areas. The small village of<br />

Telegraph Cove, raised on wooden stilts over<br />

the water, is the start point for whale watching<br />

trips in the Johnstone Strait while at the northern<br />

tip of the island Port Hardy is the terminal for<br />

ferries to and from Prince Rupert: Canada’s most<br />

awe-inspiring bear watching trips start from here<br />

or from Campbell River.<br />

SILKY’S B&B, CAMPBELL RIVER<br />

Silky’s bed and breakfast is your perfect home in<br />

Campbell River, with a friendly and courteous<br />

welcome assured by your charming – and<br />

eponymous – hostess. Her lovely home is set right<br />

on the waters’ edge and all rooms have views of<br />

the ocean and Quadra Island. Here in the Pacific<br />

northwest the rest of the world seems far away,<br />

especially when you walk through the rainforest to<br />

the spectacular private beach. Sophistication<br />

returns at each mealtime: Silky is an excellent cook.<br />

APRIL POINT RESORT & SPA,<br />

QUADRA ISLAND<br />

Located on beautiful Quadra Island, just a ten<br />

minute water taxi ride from Campbell River,<br />

April Point Resort & Spa is a charming west coast<br />

property set away from the crowds. Offering a<br />

mix of adventure and relaxation for couples and<br />

families alike, it provides great wildlife viewing,<br />

guided salmon fishing and a variety of other<br />

activities. Accommodation is in a mixture of lodge<br />

rooms, suites and cabins, all of which have sea<br />

views. The main lodge has a light airy feel and the<br />

spacious dining room has full length windows, an<br />

outdoor patio and a sushi bar. For those wanting<br />

to spoil themselves, the spa offers a variety of<br />

Aveda treatments, ideal for relaxing at the end of<br />

an activity-filled day.<br />

April Point Resort & Spa<br />

KNIGHT INLET LODGE<br />

The longest fjord on the British Columbia coast,<br />

Knight Inlet enjoys a breathtaking backdrop as<br />

mountain peaks 2,000 metres in height plunge<br />

dramatically into the Pacific Ocean. In the calm of<br />

the temperate rainforest nature’s immense power<br />

is shown by countless thundering glacier-fed<br />

waterfalls. Knight Inlet Lodge is at the heart of this<br />

natural paradise, 60 kilometres from the mouth of<br />

the inlet and reached by a spectacular float-plane<br />

flight from Campbell River. Located on the site of<br />

a historic salmon cannery whose only remains are<br />

the many supporting wooden posts protruding<br />

from the water, the rustic lodge rests, floating<br />

close to the shore. Accommodating just ten<br />

people, the lodge not only offers bear watching,<br />

but also walking, sea kayaking and fishing before<br />

guests enjoy a communal dinner with the lodge<br />

staff. The area is home to one of the province’s<br />

greatest concentrations of grizzly bears, and it is<br />

not uncommon for there to be up to 50 bears<br />

within ten kilometres of the lodge. During spring<br />

the tiny cubs emerge with their ever-cautious<br />

mothers, whilst in summer the heavy berry crop<br />

entices bears of all ages to the area. Sightings can<br />

be from boats and tree stands, while the staff<br />

strive to show bears in their natural environment<br />

without a negative impact. Knight Inlet’s naturalist<br />

guides are excellent and expand your experience<br />

beyond the star attraction to include all the other<br />

wildlife in the area.


Beautiful British Columbia<br />

Home to some of the most diverse and beautiful<br />

scenery in the world, British Columbia is a joy to<br />

visit and a destination in its own right. Pristine<br />

havens for wildlife and vast rolling forests compete<br />

with dynamic cities and a plethora of activities.<br />

This itinerary includes them all.<br />

Orcas in the Johnstone Strait<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

From Vancouver travel with your hire<br />

car on the ferry to Vancouver Island.<br />

Spend a full day exploring Victoria.<br />

Drive north to Campbell River,<br />

famous for its salmon fishing.<br />

Depart by float-plane for Knight Inlet,<br />

a coastal wilderness fjord.<br />

Spend the whole day watching<br />

grizzly bears and other wildlife in this<br />

pristine natural environment.<br />

Return to Campbell River by floatplane,<br />

then drive north to Port Hardy.<br />

Board the Inside Passage ferry from<br />

Port Hardy to Prince Rupert.<br />

Take a full day trip to<br />

Khutzeymateen Park to see grizzly<br />

bears and other wildlife.<br />

Drive from Prince Rupert to<br />

Smithers for your overnight stay.<br />

Great Bear Lodge<br />

GREAT BEAR LODGE,<br />

GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST<br />

Accessed by float-plane or water-taxi from Port<br />

Hardy, Great Bear Lodge offers one of the most<br />

unique and personal bear viewing experiences in<br />

Canada. Surrounded by the Great Bear Rainforest<br />

of western British Columbia, this is a quiet<br />

sanctuary where you can view, photograph and<br />

understand bears in the wild. A significant grizzly<br />

bear population lives here, feeding on coastal<br />

sedges and grasses. Guest numbers are limited to<br />

just ten at any one time, making the experience<br />

highly personal and very informative with the<br />

chance to feel truly at one with nature. Guides<br />

are trained biologists and experts on grizzly bears<br />

and the other flora and fauna of the Nekite<br />

Valley. Each day two bear viewing sessions are<br />

tailored to nature’s schedule, observing grizzlies<br />

when they are most active but also seeing black<br />

bears, otters, pine martins, mink and bald eagles.<br />

Optional activities include interpretive hikes<br />

with a naturalist, boat cruises or sea kayaking.<br />

Cuisine is of the highest standard with fresh<br />

organic ingredients. Accommodation is in a<br />

two-storey floating lodge with just five bedrooms,<br />

each with a private bathroom, whilst hot showers<br />

are located on the main floor along with a<br />

congenial sitting room with a fireplace, a library,<br />

and natural wood decks: perfect to sip a glass of<br />

wine in this natural Eden.<br />

Quarterdeck Inn<br />

Whale Watching<br />

at Telegraph Cove<br />

The calm, protected waters of Johnstone Strait<br />

on the northeast coast of Vancouver Island are<br />

widely acknowledged as the most accessible and<br />

predictable location to see orcas (killer whales) in<br />

the world. Comfortable 20 metre vessels, fitted<br />

with heated seating areas and toilets, cruise these<br />

waters using hydrophones to track the larger<br />

pods – and allow guests to listen to their ethereal<br />

song. Trained naturalists are on hand to explain<br />

the life of orcas as well as the porpoises, Pacific<br />

white-sided dolphins, sealions and seals that are<br />

also often seen.<br />

QUARTERDECK INN,<br />

PORT HARDY<br />

This modern hotel with 40 deluxe ocean-view<br />

rooms and suites is just minutes away from the<br />

B.C. Ferries Inside Passage ferry terminal, with<br />

views of Port Hardy’s inner harbour. The hotel<br />

offers a sauna, hot tub, fitness centre and the<br />

popular Quarterdeck Pub. The marina is situated<br />

directly in front of the hotel – sheltered waters<br />

that are a popular haven for many Pacific<br />

mariners travelling between California and Alaska.<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Continue your drive eastwards to<br />

Prince George past wilderness<br />

forests and lakes.<br />

Head south following the Fraser River<br />

valley for a three night stay on a ranch.<br />

Spend a full day taking part in the<br />

many activities such as horse riding,<br />

walking and fishing.<br />

Enjoy another full day at the ranch.<br />

Your drive today takes you to the<br />

mountain village of Whistler.<br />

The day is yours to explore<br />

Whistler – try the many activities<br />

or visit the shops and restaurants.<br />

A short but scenic drive takes you<br />

along the Sea to Sky Highway back<br />

to Vancouver.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

21


22<br />

Hiking in northern British Columbia<br />

Prince Rupert<br />

Beautifully set on the northern Pacific coast of<br />

British Columbia within easy reach of the Queen<br />

Charlotte Islands and Alaska’s Ketchikan, Prince<br />

Rupert is the terminus of the Skeena railway, and<br />

is a uniquely accessible outpost in the natural<br />

world. This is a place where eagles, bears, and<br />

whales outnumber people and the area has over<br />

10,000 years of First Nations history, clearly<br />

Cruising the Inside Passage<br />

evoked in the Museum of Northern British<br />

Columbia. Nearby the Khuzeymateen Provincial<br />

Park occupies a beautiful and remote valley that<br />

has earned world-wide fame for its prolific<br />

population of grizzly bears.<br />

CREST HOTEL, PRINCE RUPERT<br />

Situated on a high promontory overlooking the<br />

inner harbour, the Crest Hotel enjoys one of<br />

the most scenic vantage points over Kaien Island.<br />

The hotel is located just minutes from downtown<br />

Prince Rupert and has 102 comfortable rooms,<br />

many with sea views. The Waterfront restaurant,<br />

overlooking Prince Rupert harbour and the<br />

nearby islands, specialises in fresh local seafood<br />

and award-winning, locally produced wines. There<br />

is a lounge where the casual dining is popular with<br />

residents and locals alike, a fitness centre, steam<br />

room and outdoor hot tub.<br />

INSIDE PASSAGE FERRY<br />

The famed Inside Passage runs up the coast of<br />

British Columbia and on to Alaska: panoramas<br />

of unsurpassed natural beauty with snow-capped<br />

mountains, jagged fjords and glistening glaciers.<br />

The best way to appreciate this dramatic coastal<br />

landscape is on board the 15 hour ferry that plies<br />

between Prince Rupert on the mainland and Port<br />

Hardy at the northern tip of Vancouver Island,<br />

with plenty of amenities on board and orcas, seals<br />

and bald eagles to be watched for on every side.<br />

Crest Hotel<br />

The Bears of Khutzeymateen<br />

Bring your binoculars for this truly memorable<br />

experience, a thrilling six hour adventure tour<br />

from Prince Rupert to a beautiful, remote<br />

rainforest. <strong>Travel</strong> north by catamaran through<br />

Chatham Sound before continuing into rugged<br />

fjords and the pristine wilderness of the<br />

Khutzeymateen, home to one of the earth’s<br />

largest populations of grizzly bears. The area is<br />

also home to a large variety of other wildlife<br />

including orca whales, eagles, seals, mountain<br />

goats and black bears which your naturalist<br />

guide will point out to you.<br />

SKEENA TRAIN<br />

A two-day rail journey between Prince Rupert and<br />

Jasper in the Rocky Mountains, the Skeena is famed<br />

for its spectacular views as it passes through some<br />

of British Columbia’s most stunning mountain<br />

landscapes. Please see page 9 for more information.


Western Wonders<br />

The charming combination of coastal cities,<br />

small arts and crafts communities and rugged<br />

wave-battered beaches give this itinerary a true<br />

flavour of the best of Canada’s west.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Vancouver, British<br />

Columbia’s largest city.<br />

Spend a full day to discover the<br />

city at your own pace.<br />

Collect your hire car and board the<br />

BC Ferry to Vancouver Island,<br />

keeping a watch for whales en route.<br />

Enjoy a full day exploring British<br />

Columbia’s charming capital. You may<br />

wish to go whale watching or visit<br />

nearby Butchart Gardens.<br />

The Skeena train<br />

West Coast Wilderness Lodge<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive through stunning mountain<br />

scenery to Tofino on the Pacific coast.<br />

Day 6<br />

Explore the delightful little town<br />

of Tofino and nearby Pacific Rim<br />

National Park or perhaps go looking<br />

for bears along the coast.<br />

Day 7<br />

Drive to Comox to board the BC<br />

ferry to Powell River. Continue<br />

north to the little town of Lund.<br />

Under the Salmon Glacier<br />

The Sunshine Coast<br />

and Desolation Sound<br />

Studded with rugged headlands, sandy beaches and<br />

quiet lagoons, British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast is<br />

reached by a delightful drive from Horseshoe Bay<br />

in North Vancouver to the little village of Lund,<br />

crossing two rivers by ferry and with plenty of<br />

opportunities to explore en route. The Vancouver<br />

ferry arrives at Saltery Bay, where the Provincial<br />

Park protects a forested area first exploited by<br />

trappers. The pristine waters of Desolation Sound,<br />

just ten kilometres north of Lund, are surrounded<br />

by steep evergreen mountains that teem with<br />

wildlife. Through the summer months these waters<br />

are easily warm enough for swimming and<br />

snorkelling. The scenery is less severe – but just as<br />

dramatic – as many of the other sheer-sided<br />

waterways along the central coast, framed by the<br />

snow-capped peaks of the Coast Mountains that<br />

soar to heights of 2,400 metres above the tideline.<br />

WEST COAST WILDERNESS<br />

LODGE, EGMONT, SUNSHINE COAST<br />

West Coast Wilderness Lodge is tucked<br />

amongst the cedars and firs of Canada’s west<br />

coast, 145 kilometres north of Vancouver and<br />

with spectacular views of the Pacific coast. There<br />

are 20 newly-refurbished rooms and suites, all<br />

overlooking the ocean, and the lodge offers<br />

exceptional dining using local and organic<br />

ingredients. The many activities include kayaking,<br />

wildlife tours and marine excursions to nearby<br />

Princess Louisa Inlet, while the more adventurous<br />

can fly to a mountain lake for a canoe trip or helihike<br />

amongst alpine meadows. The lodge is<br />

reached by a scenic three-hour journey by car<br />

and ferry from Vancouver.<br />

LUND HOTEL, LUND<br />

Dating back to 1905, the historic Lund Hotel has<br />

a stunning ocean-front location at the gateway<br />

to Desolation Sound. Recently restored, it has<br />

31 guest rooms as well as a pub, restaurant, and<br />

decks with open views across the Pacific Ocean.<br />

Most tables in the waterfront restaurant have<br />

panoramic views of Lund Harbour and Savary<br />

Island, perfectly complementing the meals of<br />

fresh local seafood, prepared with west coast<br />

flair. Historic photographs, antiques and regional<br />

art contribute to an ambience of antiquity and<br />

local culture.<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

The day is yours to relax and enjoy<br />

the historic town of Lund or perhaps<br />

visit nearby Desolation Sound or<br />

Savary Island.<br />

Today your drive takes you along the<br />

lovely Sunshine Coast and back to<br />

Vancouver at the end of your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Spirit bear<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Lund Hotel<br />

23


Ocean Light II and grizzly<br />

Humpback whale watching<br />

King Pacific Lodge<br />

Haida Gwaii totems<br />

whales and other marine mammals are frequently<br />

seen. You can simply enjoy the experience of<br />

gliding through the water being powered by the<br />

ocean breeze, but are also encouraged to try<br />

your hand at the helm and help trim the sails.<br />

Ocean Light II is proud to operate a low impact<br />

policy, leaving areas just as they were found.<br />

Skipper and guide Chris Tulloch has more than<br />

15 years of experience in guiding coastal<br />

adventure tours along British Columbia’s coast<br />

and has a passion for its diverse wildlife. Assisting<br />

Chris as crew, guide and cook is Jenn Broom,<br />

who will make sure that your stay is enjoyable<br />

and memorable with the delicious, nutritious food<br />

that flows freely from her galley.<br />

The Great Bear Rainforest<br />

and Princess Royal Island<br />

Situated south of Alaska along the coast of British<br />

Columbia, the Great Bear Rainforest is one of the<br />

most bio-diverse ecosystems found on the planet.<br />

It is home to the rare spirit, or kermode, bear –<br />

the world’s only white-coated variation of the<br />

black bear. First Nations legend tells how the<br />

Raven, the creator, made the spirit bear as a<br />

reminder of the last Ice Age. Today there are<br />

fewer than 400 spirit bears, principally living within<br />

the Great Bear Rainforest and adjacent Princess<br />

Royal Island. This wonderful wilderness is also<br />

Spirit bear<br />

home to grizzly bears, black bears, mountain<br />

goats, eagles and grey wolves who live amongst<br />

cedar, fir and spruce trees that are often more<br />

than 1,000 years in age. In the heart of this<br />

rainforest the small, remote village of Klemtu<br />

is home to Kitasoo and Xaixais people, tribes<br />

that have thrived here since before the Ice Age.<br />

Reached only by boat or float-plane, this is a<br />

remote and magical part of British Columbia.<br />

Klemtu Great Bear Explorer<br />

The Great Bear Explorer tour is run by a<br />

community-based eco tourism venture owned by<br />

the local Kitasoo and Xaixais tribes. It focuses on<br />

the white spirit, or kermode, bears of Princess<br />

Royal Island as well as the large grizzly bears that<br />

roam the coastal estuaries. It offers a wonderful<br />

opportunity to view and learn about these<br />

fascinating creatures in their natural environment.<br />

Spirit bears are most often seen from late August<br />

to October, whilst grizzly bear viewing is excellent<br />

throughout the summer from May to October.<br />

These three or six night tours based at Klemtu<br />

Lodge include bear viewing trips, visits to historic<br />

First Nations’ sites with interpretive walks led by<br />

naturalist guides, evening interpretive and cultural<br />

programmes, a scenic cruise through the inlets of<br />

the rainforest and walks to spot other wildlife such<br />

as wolves, seals, whales and birds.<br />

KLEMTU LODGE,<br />

GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST<br />

This recently constructed lodge lies amidst the<br />

spectacular natural beauty of the Great Bear<br />

Rainforest in the small village of Klemtu.<br />

Comfortable accommodation includes rooms<br />

with private bathrooms – something of a luxury<br />

in such a remote location – a dining area, lounge<br />

and modern kitchen facilities where the chefs<br />

prepare hearty and nutritious meals that are<br />

included in your stay.<br />

KING PACIFIC LODGE,<br />

PRINCESS ROYAL ISLAND<br />

Moored in the shelter of Barnard Harbour on<br />

Princess Royal Island, this luxury floating lodge<br />

is in the heart of old-growth rainforest, with<br />

wrap-around decks equipped with high-powered<br />

telescopes for star-gazing and watching wildlife,<br />

and a full-service spa. The many guided activities<br />

include hiking, fishing, kayaking and wildlife<br />

viewing. After a sumptuous evening meal, relax<br />

by a roaring fire in the Great Room or curl up<br />

with a book in the library: bliss.<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

25


The Fraser River<br />

The Cariboo<br />

The rolling ranching country and immense forests<br />

of British Columbia’s interior plateau extends north<br />

from Lillooet between the Coast Mountains to the<br />

west and the Cariboo Mountains in the east: it is<br />

known as the Cariboo. The region became<br />

prominent with the discovery of gold and, between<br />

1862 and 1870, over 100,000 people travelled from<br />

Lillooet along the Cariboo wagon road to the gold<br />

fields. A number of roadhouses were built to supply<br />

this human tide, 100 Mile House was originally one<br />

of these stopping points, so named because it was<br />

located 100 miles from Lillooet. Other settlements<br />

established at this time include Clinton, Williams<br />

Lake, Quesnel and Barkerville which, as a restored<br />

gold rush town, is the most atmospheric. As the<br />

gold rush subsided some prospectors stayed to<br />

farm the land: today this is prime ranching country,<br />

criss–crossed by the canyons and ravines of the<br />

Fraser and Thompson rivers.<br />

ARCONA HOUSE, 108 MILE HOUSE<br />

Owned by an erudite German count and set on<br />

a small peninsula jutting out into 108 Mile Lake,<br />

Arcona House is one of our quirkier properties. It<br />

has two tastefully decorated en suite guest rooms,<br />

the Butterfly room and the Cavalry room, both<br />

accessed through a separate guest entrance. The<br />

property is almost completely surrounded by water<br />

and so both guest rooms have splendid lake views.<br />

ECHO VALLEY RANCH & SPA,<br />

NEAR CLINTON<br />

At Echo Valley Ranch & Spa, luxury and comfort<br />

go hand in hand with the rugged outdoors.<br />

Spectacular landscapes envelop this beautiful<br />

ranch where healthy gourmet cuisine is served<br />

up alongside hearty cowboy cookouts. With just<br />

18 guest bedrooms, the ranch is set amidst four<br />

distinct geographical biomes and offers an<br />

exceptional range of adventures. From here you<br />

can hike or horse-ride, take 4WD safaris through<br />

forested trails, desert canyons or across open<br />

plains or even enjoy scenic flights over majestic<br />

glaciers. Other activities include fishing for trout in<br />

crystal lakes or trying your hand at gold panning.<br />

After a day outdoors, rejuvenate yourself in the<br />

wonderful Thai spa.<br />

Wells Gray Provincial Park<br />

Wells Gray Provincial Park is one of Canada’s<br />

most beautiful parks and is renowned for its<br />

wildlife viewing, its many thundering waterfalls and<br />

remarkable white water rafting. Set in the Caribou<br />

Mountains about halfway between Kamloops and<br />

Jasper, the park was established in 1939 across an<br />

enormous 541,000 hectares. Most people enter<br />

the park via the town of Clearwater and travel to<br />

the heart of the park on the Wells Gray Corridor,<br />

with extensive interpretive guiding available from<br />

Parks Canada to introduce the flora and fauna.<br />

Black bears are commonly seen in May and<br />

June as they visit the valley floors to feed on<br />

new shoots while deer and moose are frequent<br />

sightings throughout the summer and wolves are<br />

also commonly seen. From June onwards alpine<br />

flower meadows transform the landscape above<br />

the treeline, with some of the finest found on<br />

Trophy Mountain, and provide a stunning<br />

backdrop to excursions on horseback, canoe<br />

and on foot. The many stunning waterfalls<br />

include Dawson and Spahats Falls, but the most<br />

impressive of all is Helmcken Falls which plunges<br />

140 metres into an abyss and, through the winter,<br />

freezes into a great tower of ice.<br />

NAKISKA RANCH,<br />

WELLS GRAY PROVINCIAL PARK<br />

Nakiska Ranch sits amongst towering forests and<br />

flowering meadows: cattle graze in the paddocks<br />

and, as the lodge is in the park boundaries, black<br />

bears and deer are often seen in the grounds. The<br />

main building has some guest rooms, and is where<br />

breakfast is served, but most accommodation is in<br />

simple and charming individual log cabins with<br />

bedroom, kitchenette, balcony and barbeque,<br />

often warmed by a wood-burning stove. There<br />

are a few restaurants in the area but most guests<br />

pick up their own supplies in Clearwater: it’s best<br />

to stay two nights or more to settle in.<br />

26


Gems of the West<br />

This itinerary leads you from the coastal cities<br />

and mountains into the rolling grasslands and<br />

river canyons of BC’s interior. Entering Alberta,<br />

you will discover the magic of the snow-capped<br />

mountains, a sight which will be forever<br />

afterwards etched in your memory.<br />

Sundial Hotel<br />

Echo Valley Ranch & Spa<br />

Day 1<br />

Depart from Vancouver to drive<br />

along the Sea to Sky Highway<br />

to Whistler.<br />

Explore the mountain village or try<br />

some of the many activities.<br />

Drive from Whistler through Lillooet<br />

and along the edge of huge canyons<br />

to 108 Mile Ranch.<br />

Continue from the Cariboo region to<br />

Wells Gray Provincial Park.<br />

A full day to see the wonderful<br />

waterfalls and explore the lovely<br />

walking trails in the park.<br />

Pass Mount Robson, the highest<br />

peak in the Canadian Rockies to<br />

Jasper in Alberta.<br />

The day is yours to discover the<br />

beauty of Jasper National Park,<br />

including Spirit Island and Maligne Lake.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

The Rocky Mountaineer train<br />

ALPINE MEADOWS, CLEARWATER<br />

Just an hour’s drive south of Wells Gray Provincial<br />

Park, Alpine Meadows lies on the edge of Dunn<br />

Lake between Clearwater and 100 Mile House<br />

and consists of a small selection of recently<br />

constructed chalets and log homes. Each is<br />

beautifully appointed with living room, kitchen and<br />

private deck. There are plenty of amenities here<br />

including a restaurant, barbeques and an outdoor<br />

fire-pit. Activities available include cruising on the<br />

lake in a quiet electric boat, fishing, walking, cycling,<br />

horse riding and canoeing.<br />

Whistler<br />

Whistler has earned a reputation for being<br />

Canada’s finest year-round resort, a collection of<br />

villages two hours out of Vancouver along the Sea<br />

to Sky Highway: it offers easy access to the<br />

mountains and a plethora of year-round activities.<br />

Whistler village is largely pedestrianised and has a<br />

great selection of shops and restaurants but the<br />

greatest attractions are found on the slopes of<br />

both Whistler and Blackcomb mountains that<br />

dominate the landscape. In the winter these<br />

provide exemplary ski conditions and are also used<br />

for snow-mobiling, dog-sledding and snowboarding,<br />

while in summer they become a play-ground for<br />

hikers and mountain bikers, with jet-boating, 4WD<br />

expeditions, white-water rafting, horse riding and<br />

heli-hiking providing the entertainment.<br />

Cowboys with cattle<br />

On one great trip you can travel by 4WD along<br />

the track to the summit of Blackcomb Mountain,<br />

passing through cedar-forested alpine valleys and<br />

stopping en route to take in breathtaking views of<br />

the glacier-capped peaks and the valley and village<br />

below. At the height of 1,981 metres above sea<br />

level the literal highlight of the day is a salmon<br />

bake barbeque at a mountain hut, complete with<br />

hot tub.<br />

SUNDIAL HOTEL, WHISTLER<br />

This delightful hotel is located right at the foot<br />

of both Whistler and Blackcomb mountains in the<br />

heart of Whistler village. There are just 49 one<br />

and two-bedroom suites finished to a very high<br />

standard with stylish contemporary furnishings.<br />

All have full kitchens complete with dishwasher<br />

and oven whilst the sitting room area has a gas<br />

fireplace and convertible sofa. The hotel has a<br />

spa, web café, pub and Chinese and Japanese<br />

restaurants as well as a roof-top hot tub,<br />

surrounded by magnificent mountain views.<br />

ROCKY MOUNTAINEER<br />

This well-known train is a delightful way of<br />

travelling between Vancouver and either Calgary<br />

or the Rockies, spending two days on the rails<br />

and stopping overnight in Kamloops.<br />

Please see page 9 for further information.<br />

Day 8<br />

Drive south along the epic Icefields<br />

Parkway to Lake Louise, stopping at<br />

the Columbia Icefields and the many<br />

famous lakes en route.<br />

Day 9 A leisurely day in the mountains –<br />

perhaps trying the many activities<br />

or looking for wildlife.<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

From Lake Louise it is a short and<br />

scenic drive south to Banff.<br />

Banff is a bustling town set against a<br />

sensational mountain backdrop.<br />

Drive to Calgary at the end of<br />

your trip.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

You may wish to extend this tour by returning<br />

to Vancouver on the Rocky Mountaineer train.<br />

Departing from both Calgary and Banff, this two<br />

day trip is a great way to complete your holiday.<br />

Nakiska Ranch<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

27


28<br />

The Kootenay Rockies<br />

Naramata and the<br />

Okanagan Valley<br />

Located in southern British Columbia, the<br />

Okanagan Valley is one of the warmest regions in<br />

all of Canada and the prime holiday destination for<br />

British Columbians. The main centres are Kelowna,<br />

Penticton and Osoyoos, but charming Naramata is<br />

located close to the Okanagan Mountain Park and<br />

is a quieter base. Through the summer months a<br />

hot sun transforms the countless sandy beaches<br />

of its lakes as a variety of outdoor and water<br />

activities spring into action. The climate also suits<br />

grape cultivation: the Okanagan is the country’s<br />

premier wine region, fast gaining international<br />

recognition for its variety of grapes and particularly<br />

for its excellent ice-wine. Any wine-tasting tour<br />

will be spectacular here, with the backdrop of<br />

Lake Okanagan with its golf courses and ski<br />

resorts set amongst rolling hills.<br />

Naramata Inn<br />

NARAMATA INN<br />

This beautiful heritage inn is nestled in the small<br />

town of Naramata overlooking Lake Okanagan,<br />

just a 15 minute drive north of Penticton. Built in<br />

1908, the inn has been lovingly restored to<br />

preserve the genteel charm of the Edwardian era.<br />

The 12 guest bedrooms are fitted with turn-ofthe-century<br />

furniture, luxurious linens, the original<br />

sash windows and claw-foot baths. Bathrooms<br />

have heated tile floors and separate showers<br />

while all rooms have a semi-private balcony or<br />

deck. The restaurant is renowned locally and the<br />

wine bar offers a large selection of Okanagan<br />

vintages. The inn offers free bicycle rental to<br />

guests and after a day in the saddle its full-service<br />

spa comes into its own.<br />

The Kootenays<br />

The Kootenay Rockies are British Columbia’s<br />

answer to Alberta’s famed Rocky Mountains and<br />

hold the same UNESCO World Heritage Site<br />

status. Just as big and beautiful, they are far less<br />

visited and offer visitors the chance to have the<br />

really big open scenery to themselves. Wedged<br />

between the mountains are sparsely populated<br />

valleys with large numbers of grizzly and black<br />

bears, deer, moose and elk: you have an excellent<br />

chance of seeing the large mammals. Located in<br />

the south-eastern corner of the province, between<br />

the Okanagan and Banff, the region includes several<br />

different mountain ranges, including the Rockies,<br />

Cross River Cabins<br />

Purcells, Selkirks and Monashees. The area does<br />

not get the same level of publicity as its Alberta<br />

counterpart but it should: it’s an undiscovered gem.<br />

CROSS RIVER CABINS, NEAR<br />

KOOTENAY NATIONAL PARK<br />

Cross River Cabins are located in a spectacular<br />

area that offers both adventure and the<br />

opportunity to completely relax. This small,<br />

family-run property has distinct environmental<br />

policies to help preserve the beauty of the natural<br />

landscape. Just eight cabins are surrounded by<br />

beautiful pine trees and breathtaking views of the<br />

Rocky Mountains. The main lodge is spacious,<br />

providing a kitchen, dining area, and a large living<br />

room. Personal service and great food are<br />

hallmarks here and three buffet-style meals a<br />

day are included.


Mountain Magic<br />

This delightful tour gets off the beaten track to<br />

relatively undiscovered mountain regions. From<br />

the Rockies, travel through the Purcell and Selkirk<br />

Mountains to discover the delights of lakeside<br />

villages and historic towns.<br />

Day 1<br />

Depart Calgary for the mountain<br />

town of Banff in the heart of the<br />

Rocky Mountains.<br />

A day to discover the charms of<br />

Banff and Banff National Park.<br />

Enter British Columbia and Kootenay<br />

National Park for a two night stay in<br />

the heart of the wilderness.<br />

Enjoy the fresh mountain air, the<br />

mind-blowing vistas and the many<br />

activities available.<br />

Drive south past Radium Hot Springs<br />

and Windermere to Kimberley.<br />

A day to discover Kimberley, a small<br />

former mining town remodelled to<br />

look like a Bavarian alpine village.<br />

Drive to Creston and along the<br />

edge of Lake Kootenay which you<br />

cross by ferry before continuing<br />

to Nelson.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Lake Okanagan<br />

Okanagan wine region<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Purcell Mountain Lodge<br />

The Purcell Mountains<br />

These spectacular mountains, which lie between<br />

the Rocky Mountains and Glacier National Park,<br />

contain some of North America’s most rugged<br />

and dramatic mountain landscapes. Imagine over<br />

1,200 hectares of rolling alpine meadows, fields<br />

of vibrant wildflowers swaying in the breeze and<br />

countless peaks and ridges rising to touch the sky.<br />

Against the backdrop of tumbling glaciers and<br />

alpine vistas the fauna is intoxicating in its variety:<br />

eagles, grizzly bears, humming birds, deer and elk<br />

are all frequently seen.<br />

PURCELL MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

PURCELL MOUNTAINS<br />

Reached only by helicopter, this fly-in lodge is an<br />

oasis of comfort in the midst of some of North<br />

America’s most rugged and spectacular mountain<br />

scenery. Reached by a thrilling flight through the<br />

mountains, the lodge has ten guest bedrooms,<br />

each with mountain views that are guaranteed<br />

to inspire your mind and refresh your soul.<br />

The cost of your stay includes all meals, snacks,<br />

professionally guided hikes and return helicopter<br />

transfers from Golden.<br />

Walking amidst the mountains<br />

Flight-seeing over the Kootenay Rockies<br />

Fernie<br />

Tucked away in a narrow valley in the rugged<br />

Rocky Mountains, the town of Fernie has a unique<br />

and colourful history. The town was born when a<br />

prospector noticed black and shiny stones in a<br />

necklace worn by an Indian Chief’s daughter: it was<br />

coal. The chief agreed to reveal the source of these<br />

stones if the prospector agreed to marry his<br />

daughter. When the prospector reneged on his<br />

wedding proposal the angered chief put a curse of<br />

fire, flood and famine on the valley but this didn’t<br />

stop Fernie from prospering: from coal, and through<br />

the 1920s it added to its wealth by smuggling<br />

whiskey into prohibition America. The curse was<br />

finally lifted in 1964 and today it is an atmospheric<br />

town rich in history, with abandoned mines,<br />

museums and heritage sites letting visitors step<br />

back in time to the beautiful Elk Valley’s past.<br />

LIZARD CREEK LODGE, FERNIE<br />

This comfortable lodge is set amongst wonderful<br />

mountain scenery in the pretty town of Fernie.<br />

Each of the 92 air-conditioned suites has a fullyequipped<br />

kitchen, working fireplace and a balcony<br />

with magnificent mountain views. The licensed<br />

Great Room has a grand stone fireplace creating<br />

a warm and inviting welcome. Superb dining<br />

awaits in the restaurant with service that is<br />

friendly yet refined. The lodge also offers a health<br />

club with heated outdoor swimming pool, hot<br />

tub, steam room, fitness centre and a spa.<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Today is at leisure to explore this<br />

pretty heritage town at the heart<br />

of the Selkirk Mountains.<br />

Pass the pretty historic towns of<br />

Kaslo, home to the old stern-wheeler<br />

SS Moyie, and Nakusp. Cross Upper<br />

Arrow Lake by ferry at Galena Bay<br />

before arriving in Revelstoke.<br />

Enjoy a day at leisure to discover<br />

this pretty mountain town.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> east through Glacier National<br />

Park and Golden to Field in Yoho<br />

National Park.<br />

The day is yours to relax and<br />

discover the delights of the lakes,<br />

mountains and breathtaking roads<br />

around Lake Louise.<br />

Return to Calgary at the end of<br />

your trip.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

British Columbia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

29


Alberta<br />

Alberta is home to some of Canada’s most<br />

iconic images, including Banff and<br />

Jasper National Parks, Lake Louise and the<br />

Columbia Icefields. The Canadian Rockies<br />

offer the ultimate range of outdoor activities<br />

with horse riding, white-water rafting,<br />

canoeing and guided walking just some of the<br />

exhilarating options. As the dizzying heights<br />

of the Rockies recede, the land extends into the<br />

vastness of the prairies, punctuated by looming<br />

grain elevators. This is home to dynamic<br />

young cities such as Edmonton and Calgary,<br />

glittering with tower blocks financed by the<br />

oil industry. Northern Alberta is an untamed<br />

wilderness of boreal forest whose highlight<br />

is Wood Buffalo National Park, one of the<br />

few places where herds of plains bison still<br />

roam. Meanwhile southern Alberta is home<br />

to the Cowboy Trail with rustic homestay<br />

ranches and the enchanting Waterton Lakes<br />

National Park. The UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site of Dinosaur Provincial Park<br />

yields countless fossils and the millennia-old<br />

First Nations cultural site at Head Smashedin<br />

Buffalo Jump is reason enough to explore<br />

beyond the Rockies. For those prepared to<br />

scratch beneath the surface Alberta has far<br />

more to offer than just the incredible wildlife<br />

and its reputation as a Rocky Mountains<br />

adventure playground.<br />

30


NORTHWEST TERRITORIES<br />

Wood Buffalo<br />

National Park<br />

Lake<br />

Athabasca<br />

Fort Chipewyan<br />

Fort McMurray<br />

Big horn sheep<br />

Jasper<br />

At the heart of the towering mountains and<br />

turquoise lakes of Jasper National Park, the small<br />

town of Jasper lies at the confluence of the<br />

Athabasca and Miette rivers. This pleasant place<br />

can be reached by car or by rail from Prince<br />

George, Vancouver or Edmonton and is ideally<br />

located for exploring the northern regions of the<br />

Rockies and still retains a frontier feel. Though it<br />

is small enough to walk around, it offers every<br />

amenity with plenty of restaurants, bars and<br />

shops. These man-made attractions pale into<br />

insignificance against the stupendous beauty of<br />

the surrounding national park where nature is<br />

revealed in all her might and majesty. Spirit Island,<br />

situated in Maligne Lake, is an icon of the Rockies,<br />

as is nearby Maligne Canyon. Other highlights<br />

include Miette Hot Springs, Medicine Lake, and<br />

rafting along the Athabasca River. The region<br />

abounds in wildlife: elk, moose, mountain goats<br />

and bears are just some of the animals frequently<br />

seen. Active options include guided walks in the<br />

mountains, 4WD expeditions into the nearby<br />

Columbia Icefields and thrilling helicopter flights<br />

over the mountains.<br />

BRITISH COLUMBIA<br />

Grande<br />

Prairie<br />

Jasper<br />

National Park<br />

Jasper<br />

Columbia<br />

Icefields<br />

Rocky Mountains<br />

0 75 miles<br />

0 120 kilometres<br />

Icefields<br />

Parkway<br />

Lake<br />

Louise<br />

Field<br />

JASPER INN ALPINE RESORT<br />

Set within walking distance of downtown Jasper,<br />

this well-established hotel is perfectly located to<br />

explore both the town and its surroundings. The<br />

143 guest rooms offer a variety of room types<br />

and the restaurant is popular with both locals and<br />

guests. During the summer months dining is on<br />

the outdoor terrace and facilities include an indoor<br />

swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room.<br />

Banff<br />

Canmore<br />

ALBERTA<br />

EDMONTON<br />

Banff<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

The<br />

Cowboy<br />

Trail<br />

Head Smashed-in<br />

Buffalo Jump<br />

Waterton Lakes<br />

National Park<br />

Calgary<br />

Claresholm<br />

Elk Island<br />

National Park<br />

Drumheller<br />

Fort Lethbridge<br />

Macleod<br />

SASKATCHEWAN<br />

Dinosaur<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Writing-on-Stone<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Cypress Hills<br />

Inter-Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Mount Edith Cavell<br />

PARK PLACE INN, JASPER<br />

This small boutique hotel is nestled in the heart<br />

of downtown Jasper amidst restaurants, shops<br />

and nightlife. Each of the 14 rooms is furnished<br />

with oriental carpets, goose-down duvets, thick<br />

bathrobes, and some rooms are equipped with<br />

a Jacuzzi bath.<br />

Path of the Glacier Walk<br />

Explore the stunning beauty of Mount Edith<br />

Cavell on a guided walking tour. Your guide will<br />

show you a variety of glaciers, icebergs, ice caves,<br />

waterfalls, and emerald green lakes in one of<br />

Jasper’s most scenic areas.<br />

Spirit Island, Maligne Lake<br />

Jasper Inn Alpine Resort<br />

Alberta: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

31


Moraine Lake, Banff National Park<br />

Lake Louise<br />

Known worldwide as the “Jewel of the Rockies”,<br />

this is a picture-perfect lake of iconic beauty with<br />

the Victoria Glacier perfectly reflected in the still<br />

blue waters. One end of the lake is dominated by<br />

the huge structure of the Château Lake Louise<br />

hotel, but a short walk in any direction enables<br />

you to reach pristine mountain wilderness. There<br />

are many walking, horse riding and mountain<br />

biking trails on land while canoes are available to<br />

explore the lakeshore. Lake Louise village is set<br />

several kilometres from the lake and has a handful<br />

of facilities including a supermarket, petrol station<br />

and some restaurants. The village is close to<br />

several national and provincial parks, making it a<br />

great base for those who wish to explore some<br />

of the most awe-inspiring scenery in the Rocky<br />

Mountains. In 1882 Tom Wilson was the first<br />

white Canadian to see Lake Louise and wrote<br />

‘I never, in all my explorations of these five chains<br />

of mountains throughout western Canada, saw<br />

such a matchless scene... I felt puny in body but<br />

glorified in spirit and soul.’<br />

Lake-side deer<br />

Emerald Lake Lodge<br />

Yoho National Park<br />

Reached from Lake Louise by traversing the aweinspiring<br />

Kicking Horse Pass, Yoho National Park<br />

is named after a Cree word meaning ‘wonder’: a<br />

fitting description for the breathtaking scale of its<br />

mountain scenery. Despite its proximity to Lake<br />

Louise, Yoho lies on the opposite side of the<br />

Continental Divide, entirely within British<br />

Columbia. The park is renowned for the Burgess<br />

Shales, a very rare sedimentary rock up to 530<br />

million years old, and also for the overwhelming<br />

beauty of Lake O’Hara, Takakkaw Falls and<br />

Emerald Lake. The tiny town of Field is the park’s<br />

only settlement and its history is intrinsically<br />

entwined with the early days when the<br />

spectacular landscape was conquered by rail, built<br />

through magnificent feats of engineering such as<br />

the famous Spiral Tunnels.<br />

CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

YOHO NATIONAL PARK<br />

This charming lodge lies just outside Field on the<br />

road to beautiful Takakkaw Falls. Constructed<br />

entirely from timber, its rooms are filled with natural<br />

light and magnificent views of the omni-present<br />

mountains. The main building has a spacious dining<br />

room and a lounge with a huge stone fireplace<br />

opening onto a sun deck with views of the Kicking<br />

Horse River. Accommodation is in cabins simply<br />

furnished to match its surroundings. Guests have<br />

access to all amenities at Moraine Lake Lodge<br />

including canoes, guided hikes and evening lectures,<br />

all free of charge, whilst nearby Takakkaw Falls<br />

offers some of the best walking in the Rockies.<br />

EMERALD LAKE LODGE,<br />

YOHO NATIONAL PARK<br />

Emerald Lake’s vivid aquamarine colour frames this<br />

beautiful lodge in its picturesque setting. Reached<br />

across a short wooden bridge, the main lodge<br />

houses the sitting room, a bar with outside terrace<br />

and the Mount Burgess dining room. More casual<br />

fare is on offer at Cilantro on the Lake and the<br />

Yoho Lounge. Each of the 85 rooms has a woodburning<br />

fieldstone fireplace, a beautifully fitted<br />

bathroom, plantation blinds and a balcony but no<br />

television: entirely appropriate in this tranquil<br />

setting. The area has some stunning trails whilst<br />

canoeing, fishing, jet-boating and white-water<br />

rafting are also available.<br />

32


Banff and surrounding mountains<br />

Log cabin, Cathedral Mountain Lodge<br />

Buffalo Mountain Lodge<br />

Hiking in the Rocky Mountains<br />

Banff<br />

The small town of Banff is dominated by the<br />

towering mountains of Banff National Park. The<br />

town itself has plenty of shops and restaurants<br />

and is small enough to walk around, but it is the<br />

stunning beauty of the surrounding national park<br />

that captivates visitors. Created in 1887, this is<br />

Canada’s oldest national park and encompasses<br />

some of the finest scenery in North America, if<br />

not the world. For an overall view of the<br />

mountain landscape take the gondola to the top<br />

of Sulphur Mountain before visiting the Cave and<br />

Basin, Lake Minnewanka and bathing in the Upper<br />

Hot Springs. Active options include walking,<br />

horse riding, mountain biking, canoeing and rafting,<br />

all of which may well provide a close sighting of<br />

the region’s abundant wildlife.<br />

Pension Tannenhof<br />

BUFFALO MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

BANFF<br />

Located on the slopes of Tunnel Mountain just<br />

a few minutes drive from the centre of Banff,<br />

Buffalo Mountain Lodge is an oasis amongst<br />

the mountains. Built of timber and fieldstone,<br />

the delightful main lodge features wooden<br />

cathedral post and beam ceilings and a huge<br />

stone fireplace. The adjacent dining room offers<br />

mouth-watering local cuisine and an awardwinning<br />

wine selection, whilst there is also a café<br />

serving more casual fare. In total there are 108<br />

rooms located in two-storey annexes and all<br />

have a balcony or patio and a wood-burning<br />

fieldstone fireplace.<br />

PENSION TANNENHOF,<br />

BANFF<br />

Pension Tannenhof, set in the spruce trees at the<br />

foot of Sulphur Mountain away from the hustle<br />

and bustle of central Banff, has been welcoming<br />

guests from around the world since 1985. With<br />

all the cosy comfort of a charming country home,<br />

guests meet around the open fireplace of the<br />

large high-ceilinged living room, while<br />

accommodation is provided in ten spacious guest<br />

bedrooms. A buffet breakfast is the perfect start<br />

to each morning in the mountains.<br />

Banff Gondola<br />

Sulphur Mountain Gondola,<br />

Banff<br />

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Sulphur<br />

Mountain provides fabulous 360-degree views of<br />

the surrounding snow-capped peaks. It is said that<br />

from this peak you can see more mountains in<br />

a moment than most will see in a lifetime: six<br />

mountain ranges dominate the view. There’s no<br />

need to be a mountaineer as gondolas whisk you<br />

from Banff to the summit, where boardwalks lead<br />

along the ridge and there are two restaurants.<br />

Canmore<br />

Located just a few kilometres from Banff,<br />

Canmore is a charming quiet town just<br />

outside the national park limits that has not<br />

yet succumbed to souvenir shops and the busy<br />

pace of life which comes with tourism. It has<br />

some lovely restaurants and bed and breakfasts<br />

and can be a better alternative base to explore<br />

the national park, especially during the peak<br />

summer months.<br />

Alberta: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

33


Heli-hiking in the mountains<br />

Heli-hiking<br />

You don’t need to be super-fit to reach alpine<br />

meadows ablaze with wild flowers, mountain<br />

tops high above the tree-line and ancient blue<br />

glaciers – you need a helicopter. These multi-day<br />

heli-hikes, which allow guests to experience the<br />

full diversity of alpine terrain in a short space of<br />

time, are based at remote mountain lodges, easily<br />

accessed by helicopter from both Jasper and<br />

Banff. Twice each day you will be flown to<br />

remote parts of the mountains that can otherwise<br />

only be reached by experienced rock climbers<br />

and the sure-footed mountain sheep. Expert<br />

guides point out the marvels of a diverse range of<br />

flora and fauna on hikes that can be tailored to<br />

any levels of fitness before returning to your<br />

comfortable lodge for a delicious dinner and a<br />

chat with new friends around the fire.<br />

BOBBIE BURNS LODGE,<br />

NEAR BANFF<br />

Easily reached from Banff, the Bobbie Burns Lodge<br />

has a magnificent mountain setting and a warm and<br />

friendly ambience. The lodge has 24 guest rooms,<br />

an outdoor whirlpool with the most wonderful<br />

views, a sauna, games room and a comfortable<br />

lounge with a large welcoming fireplace. Renowned<br />

for offering excellent food, the lodge also has an<br />

extensive wine cellar, reputedly one of the best in<br />

the Canadian wilderness.<br />

BUGABOO LODGE, NEAR BANFF<br />

From the entrance to this lodge views are of the<br />

spires of the Bugaboo Mountains and the great<br />

glaciers that gather amongst them. Newly renovated,<br />

this remote mountain lodge is set at a height of<br />

1,600 metres, over a kilometre above sea level, and<br />

has 35 rooms with private bathrooms. There is a<br />

bar and lounge, a spa, games room and a roof-top<br />

hot tub with sensational views. There is also a<br />

marvellous little museum with maps, pictures and<br />

natural history exhibits.<br />

Edmonton<br />

Set on the northern shores of the Saskatchewan<br />

River, Edmonton is the capital of Alberta. Its<br />

abundant quartzite was used by First Nations<br />

peoples to fashion tools and weapons and it was<br />

later at the heart of Canada’s richest fur<br />

producing lands, but today its wealth is built on<br />

‘black gold’: oil. Fuelled by this underground asset<br />

Edmonton has boomed into a super-modern,<br />

climate-defying phenomenon. It is home to the<br />

world’s largest shopping centre, West Edmonton<br />

Mall, which numbers the world’s largest<br />

amusement park amongst its attractions. The<br />

remarkable Muttart Conservatory uses distinctive<br />

glass pyramids to reproduce a variety of diverse<br />

ecosystems for visitors to experience, while in the<br />

late Victorian suburb of Old Strathcona they can<br />

stroll through the summer Farmers’ Market.<br />

UNION BANK INN, EDMONTON<br />

Situated in the heart of downtown Edmonton,<br />

and built as a bank in 1911, this boutique hotel<br />

has been restored to the highest quality and<br />

offers understated elegance through its modern<br />

renaissance architecture. There are 34 individually<br />

decorated rooms in both traditional and<br />

contemporary styles, all finished to the highest<br />

standards. Other facilities include a dining room<br />

and a fitness room but the hallmark of the inn is<br />

the warmth and professionalism of the staff.<br />

Elk Island National Park<br />

Elk Island National Park is an island of small<br />

hills and depressions surrounded by flat plains<br />

that is home to one of the world’s highest<br />

concentrations of plains bison. Set in the Beaver<br />

Hills, 45 kilometres east of Edmonton, the park is<br />

an oasis of boreal forest and aspen-studded hills.<br />

First Nations people relied on this area for winter<br />

food and shelter and survived through the<br />

summer on the bison that roam the surrounding<br />

plains. It has always been an excellent habitat for<br />

elk, moose, deer, bears and game birds but today<br />

the park is renowned for its role in saving the<br />

wood buffalo, plains bison and trumpeter swan<br />

from the brink of extinction.<br />

34


Calgary, Helicopters<br />

and Mountains<br />

This itinerary starts in the vibrant city of Calgary<br />

where you have time to soak up the western<br />

flavour and discover the excellent shops and<br />

restaurants. You then head into the mountains<br />

for a two night stay in the Rockies town of Banff.<br />

From here you will be taken by helicopter into<br />

road-less mountains for three nights exploring a<br />

pristine wilderness region.<br />

Bobbie Burns Lodge<br />

Fairmont Palliser Hotel<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Calgary at the start of<br />

your trip.<br />

Today is yours to explore Calgary,<br />

with the Glenbow Museum, Calgary<br />

Tower and the Canada Olympic Park.<br />

Transfer by coach to Banff for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Spend a full day to uncover the<br />

delights of Banff including the<br />

Hoodoos, Sulphur Mountain and<br />

the Bow River.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Today you will be met and<br />

transferred by helicopter to your<br />

mountain top lodge for a three<br />

night stay.<br />

Chuck-wagon racing<br />

Calgary<br />

A 90 minute drive from the Rocky Mountains,<br />

Calgary is a vibrant city of a million people.<br />

Dynamic and rapidly growing, it boasts great<br />

shopping and dining and a wide range of<br />

attractions. These include Calgary Tower,<br />

the Canada Olympic Park, Eau Claire Market,<br />

Glenbow Museum and St. George’s Island which<br />

is home to Calgary Zoo, the Botanical Gardens<br />

and the Prehistoric Park. Calgary is famous for its<br />

Stampede which takes place every year in July.<br />

During this time the entire city is gripped in the<br />

party atmosphere of ‘Stampede Fever’ – don’t<br />

forget your boots and Stetson!<br />

FAIRMONT PALLISER HOTEL,<br />

CALGARY<br />

The Palliser has been a Calgary landmark since it<br />

opened in 1914, with its magnificent lobby of<br />

marble pillars, adorned with potted palms. In total<br />

there are 405 rooms, all with high ceilings and<br />

large windows. The Rimrock Restaurant opens for<br />

breakfast, lunch and dinner whilst the Oak Room,<br />

a popular meeting place for visitors and locals<br />

alike, offers lighter cuisine. There is a fullyequipped<br />

health club and an indoor swimming<br />

pool. The hotel is ideally located next to the<br />

railway station with a covered walkway that<br />

crosses to the Calgary Tower.<br />

Bull riding at the Calgary Stampede<br />

HOTEL ARTS, CALGARY<br />

Located in the heart of Calgary just two blocks<br />

from the railway station, Hotel Arts is the<br />

city’s newest contemporary hotel. Recently<br />

renovated, this stylish hotel offers 188 luxurious<br />

contemporary rooms and suites, each featuring<br />

plasma screen televisions, elegant furnishings and<br />

luxurious linens. For meals there is a French bistro<br />

serving fine Gallic cuisine and the fun and funky<br />

Raw Bar at the Arts, a casual bar and restaurant.<br />

In addition, there is a complimentary fitness room<br />

and a delightful outdoor swimming pool.<br />

Calgary Stampede<br />

The Calgary Stampede was inaugurated in 1912<br />

as a top class rodeo event and Wild West show<br />

to attract the best cowboys from across the<br />

continent. The first Stampede was the richest<br />

rodeo competition in North America, drawing<br />

more than 100,000 spectators. Still the richest,<br />

it is now also the world’s largest rodeo with<br />

chuck-wagon races, bull riding and steer wrestling<br />

competitions along with agricultural and stage<br />

shows and even an ‘Indian’ village. During<br />

Stampede week, in early July, the city is flooded<br />

with visitors who join locals in western attire,<br />

revelling in the spirited atmosphere. <strong>Audley</strong> can<br />

arrange your tickets but early bookings are highly<br />

recommended!<br />

Days 6 - 7 Enjoy two full days hiking in the<br />

mountains. Each morning and<br />

afternoon take a thrilling helicopter<br />

flight to hike far above the tree line<br />

amidst glaciers and alpine meadows.<br />

Day 8<br />

Your helicopter will return you<br />

to Banff where you will board the<br />

coach transfer back to Calgary at<br />

the end of your trip.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Calgary skyline<br />

Alberta: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

35


36<br />

Boots and spurs<br />

Cowboy Country<br />

More than a century ago pioneer adventurers<br />

headed west to uncharted territory to claim land<br />

and start new lives. Their rich agricultural heritage of<br />

living life in harmony with the land flourishes today<br />

and the undulating grasslands of Alberta are<br />

studded with sturdy beef cattle and trusty steeds.<br />

The best way to experience this hard-working way<br />

of life is to stay with the cowboys at an authentic<br />

working ranch, where you will have the opportunity<br />

not only to ride the open range but to take part in<br />

branding, roping, pack trips, fence-mending and<br />

cattle drives. Your hosts are cowboys who know<br />

the country, their cattle and their horses: to share<br />

their experience and traditional way of life is an<br />

unforgettable insight into life in rural Canada.<br />

WILLOW LANE RANCH,<br />

NEAR CLARESHOLM<br />

Situated 90 minutes drive south of Calgary,<br />

Willow Lane is an authentic working cattle ranch<br />

owned and run by the Lane family, who invite a<br />

few guests to join in their daily tasks. You can<br />

count on gentle horses and delicious home food,<br />

grown and reared on the farm. The ranch house<br />

feels warm and welcoming with a large front<br />

porch looking across the powerful prairie<br />

landscape. There are just four simple rooms,<br />

making your stay a friendly and personal<br />

experience in a vast landscape of stark and<br />

diverse beauty.<br />

Lucasia Creek Ranch<br />

LUCASIA CREEK RANCH,<br />

NEAR CLARESHOLM<br />

Lucasia Ranch is a prime example of a traditional<br />

working ranch, set amidst 1,600 hectares in the<br />

Porcupine Hills of southern Alberta. Established in<br />

1881, the ranch stands as a testament to a bygone<br />

era where herds of elk and deer mingle with Texas<br />

Longhorns and cross-bred cattle, corralled by<br />

cowboys on percheron, appaloosa and quarter<br />

horses. Lucasia is owned and run by the Lucas<br />

family who invite guests to share in their daily<br />

activities that include cattle drives, branding, seasonal<br />

round-ups and regular checks on cattle and horses.<br />

Other options include team roping practice, walking<br />

the hills and watching for birds and other wildlife.<br />

After a day in the saddle, you can spend the<br />

evening relaxing beside a crackling campfire or on<br />

the deck. Accommodation is in either the main<br />

ranch house or an historic log bunkhouse and all<br />

meals are included, home-cooked feasts of ranchraised<br />

beef and farm-fresh vegetables.<br />

Head Smashed-in<br />

Buffalo Jump<br />

This remarkable testament to the native peoples of<br />

the North American plains was awarded UNESCO<br />

World Heritage status in 1981 after archaeological<br />

evidence showed that the site was used repeatedly<br />

for traditional buffalo hunts for nearly 6,000 years.<br />

The plains people would dress as wolves or foxes<br />

and spend days carefully herding the buffalo, finally<br />

stampeding them over a ten metre high cliff. This<br />

age-old practice was stopped almost overnight in<br />

the 19th century when horses were introduced,<br />

making it easy for individuals to hunt without<br />

involving the entire tribe. The site’s name doesn’t<br />

quite mean what you might expect. It comes from<br />

the tale of a brave who waited below the cliff to<br />

get a different view of the buffalos as they flew into<br />

the air: not, in retrospect, such a good idea. While<br />

in the area it is also worth visiting Fort Macleod, a<br />

historic outpost of the North West Mounted Police<br />

who were despatched in 1874 to bring order to<br />

the west.<br />

Buffalo skulls


The Blackfoot Trail<br />

Southern Alberta has a rich history dating back to<br />

prehistoric times and this varied itinerary gives you<br />

a real flavour of the heritage of the Blackfoot<br />

people and the landscapes they called home.<br />

Day 1<br />

Drive from Calgary to Lethbridge for<br />

a three night stay.<br />

Explore Waterton Lakes National<br />

Park. Don’t miss Cameron Falls or<br />

the Red Rock Parkway.<br />

Visit Fort MacLeod and nearby Head<br />

Smashed-in Buffalo Jump.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Writing-on-Stone<br />

Provincial Park before continuing to<br />

Cypress Hills Inter-provincial Park.<br />

Embark on a nature trail in the heart<br />

of Canada’s great plains.<br />

Drive to Val Marie in Saskatchewan<br />

for a two night stay on the border<br />

of Grasslands National Park.<br />

A full day to explore Grasslands<br />

National Park near the site of the<br />

Battle of the Little Big Horn.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> west to Brooks for a two night<br />

stay to visit Dinosaur Provincial Park.<br />

Enjoy a full day discovering the<br />

fossils of Dinosaur Provincial Park.<br />

Return to Calgary at the end of<br />

your trip.<br />

Royal Tyrrell Museum of Paleontology<br />

Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Stock judging cowboys<br />

Dinosaur Provincial Park<br />

Day 10<br />

Dinosaur Provincial Park<br />

Dinosaur Provincial Park is a UNESCO World<br />

Heritage Site located about two hours’ drive east of<br />

Calgary amidst striking badland topography. Known<br />

for being one of the greatest dinosaur fossil beds in<br />

the world, thirty-nine dinosaur species, dating back<br />

more than 75 million years, have been discovered<br />

here and more than 500 specimens have been<br />

removed for exhibition in museums worldwide. The<br />

park boasts a very complex ecosystem, including<br />

cottonwoods surrounded by prairies and some of<br />

the world’s most northerly cactus species.<br />

Jackrabbits, deer, pronghorn antelope, rattle and<br />

garter snakes are found in the park, while at dusk<br />

coyotes and nighthawks are commonly seen.<br />

Writing-on-Stone<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Writing-on-Stone is a sacred landscape: a place of<br />

special spiritual significance to the Blackfoot people<br />

who hunted and travelled these great plains for<br />

thousands of years. The Blackfoot’s long and<br />

intimate relationship with the land is revealed by<br />

an inspiring wealth of First Nations carvings,<br />

petroglyphs, paintings and pictographs that cover<br />

the faces of sheer sandstone cliffs. First created<br />

as a Provincial Park in 1957, the archaeological<br />

preserve was established in 1977 to ensure the<br />

protection of the largest concentration of rock<br />

art on the North American plains.<br />

Waterton Lakes National Park<br />

Waterton Lakes National Park is a rare gem<br />

tucked into the south-western corner of Alberta.<br />

In this breathtaking part of the world the majestic<br />

Rocky Mountains rise suddenly out of the rolling<br />

prairies, an ancient landscape where ice-age<br />

glaciers have carved out valleys now filled by<br />

crystal-clear lakes. To the south, the park borders<br />

Glacier National Park in Montana and together<br />

they make up the Waterton-Glacier International<br />

Peace Park, the first of its kind in the world. What<br />

makes Waterton Park unique is its blend of<br />

unusual geology, a mild climate, rare wild flowers,<br />

and an abundance of wildlife.<br />

KILMOREY LODGE,<br />

WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK<br />

Nestled between the mountain peaks on<br />

Waterton village’s lake-shore, this charming<br />

historic lodge, opened in the late 1920s, has<br />

plenty of character. The log style building is<br />

reminiscent of a country inn, furnished with<br />

antiques and photographs evoking the history<br />

of the park. The 23 guest rooms are individually<br />

decorated and many have views of the lake.<br />

The lodge’s award-winning restaurant, the Lamp<br />

Post, is popular with guests and locals alike whilst<br />

during the summer months the delightful Gazebo<br />

Café is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine<br />

whilst drinking in the intoxicating beauty of<br />

Emerald Bay.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

Why not extend your trip to include a stay at one<br />

of the nearby working cattle ranches, giving you a<br />

taste of a true western itinerary<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Kilmorey Lodge<br />

Alberta: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

37


Saskatchewan<br />

Saskatchewan offers a wealth of experiences,<br />

some quirky, for those who wish to scratch<br />

beneath the surface and discover the heartbeat<br />

of western Canada. The rich wheat belt of the<br />

prairies that supplies half of all Canada’s export<br />

crops is studded with natural gems such as the<br />

border region of Big Muddy Badlands, named<br />

after Big Muddy Valley, resting place of Sitting<br />

Bull after the defeat of General Custer and also<br />

a hideout of Butch Cassidy. The immense skies<br />

and rolling fields of Grasslands National Park<br />

to the south of Regina are dotted with grain<br />

elevators, while to the west Cypress Hills<br />

Interprovincial Park holds some of Canada’s<br />

highest elevations east of the Rockies. North<br />

and the waves of wheat fields meet boreal forest<br />

in Prince Albert National Park, home to a herd<br />

of wild bison. The town of Moose Jaw was<br />

nicknamed ‘Little Chicago’ from the days of Al<br />

Capone’s booze running but the largest city is<br />

Saskatoon, known for its summer festivals and<br />

Saskatoon Berry Pie. Regina is the provincial<br />

capital, home to the Royal Canadian Mounted<br />

Police. Near Saskatoon lies Wanuskewin<br />

Heritage Park, a hands-on and slickly run<br />

interpretive centre for the province’s native<br />

peoples. Don’t fly past on the trans-Canada<br />

highway: Saskatchewan has plenty to offer.<br />

38


ALBERTA<br />

SASKATCHEWAN<br />

Île-à-la-<br />

Crosse<br />

La Ronge<br />

Reindeer<br />

Lake<br />

MANITOBA<br />

Saskatchewan Splendours<br />

This varied itinerary enables you to explore the<br />

richness of the flora and fauna of Saskatchewan’s<br />

prairies as well as discovering the history and cities<br />

of the province. Saskatchewan offers great<br />

rewards to those that take the time to visit.<br />

Prince Albert<br />

National Park<br />

Day 1<br />

Drive from Calgary to Cypress Hills<br />

Interprovincial Park on the<br />

Alberta/Saskatchewan border.<br />

Maple<br />

Creek<br />

Cypress Hills<br />

Inter-Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Kyle<br />

North<br />

Battleford<br />

Wanuskewin<br />

Heritage Park<br />

Lake<br />

Diefenbaker<br />

Swift<br />

Current<br />

Grasslands<br />

National Park<br />

Saskatoon<br />

Prince Albert<br />

Watrous<br />

Moose<br />

Jaw<br />

Big Muddy<br />

Badlands<br />

REGINA<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Explore the park, perhaps joining<br />

an interpretive walk to discover the<br />

unique ecological features.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Grasslands National Park<br />

for a two night stay.<br />

The day is yours to explore<br />

Grasslands National Park, home to<br />

many of the prairies’ endangered<br />

species of flora and fauna.<br />

Drive to Kyle for a three night stay<br />

at La Reata ranch on the shores of<br />

Lake Diefenbaker.<br />

Days 6 - 7 Discover life on a traditional working<br />

ranch, spending your time riding,<br />

helping with ranch activities, looking<br />

for wildlife or relaxing.<br />

Regina<br />

Moose Jaw<br />

Day 8<br />

Today you drive to Regina, the<br />

home of the Royal Canadian<br />

Mounted Police.<br />

Originally a tent village called ‘Pile o’ Bones’, the<br />

bustling and friendly town of Regina was renamed<br />

for Queen Victoria. The city’s modern central<br />

business district is gleaming, modern and high-rise<br />

but contrasts with a vast central park, set around<br />

a lake. Regina is the original headquarters for the<br />

North West Mounted Police, the precursor to<br />

the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, affectionately<br />

known as ‘Mounties’: the RCMP Centennial<br />

Museum is fascinating and you can still see cadets<br />

parade, with a ritual Sunset Retreat Ceremony<br />

taking place on every Tuesday throughout the<br />

summer months. The interpretive centre tells the<br />

story of their creation to combat the lawlessness<br />

of the west’s whiskey traders. Another highlight is<br />

the Royal Saskatchewan Museum which focuses<br />

on the local First Nations’ history.<br />

LA REATA RANCH, KYLE<br />

In rolling prairies reminiscent of an old western<br />

film, La Reata Ranch lies in a landscape of open<br />

range and canyons, broken by the sandy beaches<br />

of Lake Diefenbaker. La Reata is a working cattle<br />

ranch offering an authentic cowboy experience<br />

from the saddle of a horse. Accommodation is in<br />

charming western-style wooden cabins whilst all<br />

meals, eaten together with the family, are included.<br />

Beginners can have western riding lessons whilst<br />

everyone will have the chance to learn how to<br />

rope and work with cattle or try their first barrel<br />

race. Whilst there is a lot to do every day, there is<br />

always a good lunch break with coffee, beans and<br />

sausages cooked over an open fire with time for<br />

an afternoon snooze in the sun.<br />

The quirky town of Moose Jaw was named after<br />

the Cree word meaning ‘warm breeze’. It was a<br />

major 19th century terminal for the Canadian<br />

Pacific Railway and many downtown buildings date<br />

from this era. In the 1920s, during prohibition, the<br />

town was nicknamed ‘Little Chicago’ and used by<br />

gangster Al Capone to smuggle alcohol into the<br />

USA from a myriad of underground storage<br />

tunnels. The same tunnels were also used by<br />

wretched Chinese immigrants while they struggled<br />

to raise enough money to become citizens. There<br />

are more than thirty murals depicting the story of<br />

Moose Jaw’s history dotted around the town<br />

which makes for a great walking tour.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Spend the day exploring<br />

Saskatchewan’s capital city.<br />

Head for Saskatoon, the province’s<br />

largest city which is rich in<br />

Canadian history.<br />

A full day to explore Saskatoon, the<br />

city where the wheat belt meets the<br />

Canadian Shield.<br />

Your tour concludes today<br />

in Saskatoon.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

The RCMP Sunset Ceremony<br />

La Reata Ranch<br />

A prairies grain processing plant<br />

Saskatchewan: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

39


Manitoba<br />

Geographically in the centre of Canada,<br />

Manitoba’s southern agricultural<br />

pastures give way to green forested hills on<br />

whose northern fringes lie the post ice-age<br />

Canadian Shield, a land of ice-scraped rock,<br />

boreal forest and lakes, reaching to the waters<br />

of the vast Hudson Bay. Wildlife is abundant<br />

and in any part of the region visitors may<br />

encounter moose, wolves, black bears, beavers<br />

and herds of caribou. Wildlife lovers are<br />

particularly drawn to Churchill, where tundra,<br />

taiga, and boreal forest meet on the shores of<br />

Hudson Bay, and in the summer months<br />

beluga whales and migratory birds gather in<br />

their thousands. Polar bears converge here in<br />

the autumn as the seas freeze over whilst black<br />

bears are most easily seen in Riding Mountain<br />

National Park and this is also one of the best<br />

places to learn about First Nations culture.<br />

The beaches of Lake Winnipeg, Hecla and<br />

Whiteshell Provincial Parks are also well<br />

worth a visit. Though European explorers only<br />

discovered the region that is now Manitoba in<br />

the 17th century, its history is much older:<br />

archaeological remains of early settlers dating<br />

back 6,000 years have been found at The Forks<br />

National Historic Site. The provincial capital,<br />

Winnipeg, is the major urban centre, with the<br />

Royal Winnipeg Ballet and the Manitoba<br />

Opera among its attractions.<br />

40


SASKATCHEWAN<br />

0 80 miles<br />

0 129 kilometres<br />

NUNAVUT<br />

Churchill<br />

Hudson Bay<br />

Reindeer<br />

Lake<br />

MANITOBA<br />

Thompson<br />

Flin Flon<br />

ONTARIO<br />

The Pas<br />

Norway<br />

House<br />

Ukranian dancing<br />

Winnipeg<br />

Lake<br />

Winnipegosis<br />

Lake<br />

Winnipeg<br />

The largest city in Manitoba and known<br />

affectionately as ‘The Peg’, Winnipeg may have<br />

begun as a fur-trade centre but is now a vibrant<br />

and cosmopolitan city in the heart of Canada’s<br />

prairies. Set at the confluence of the Red and<br />

Assiniboine rivers, its attractions include the<br />

Manitoba Museum of Man and Nature, Winnipeg<br />

Art Gallery, the Exchange District with its examples<br />

of early 20th century architecture and the historic<br />

districts of The Forks and Lower Fort Garry.<br />

The city is very multi-cultural and has large<br />

Ukrainian, Chinese and Italian communities,<br />

resulting in a very diverse and interesting cultural<br />

blend. There is no shortage of entertainment<br />

options with the Winnipeg Symphony Orchestra,<br />

Manitoba Opera, Royal Winnipeg Ballet as well as<br />

a variety of summer festivals. No visit is complete<br />

without a trip along the Red River to Lake<br />

Winnipeg, where you’ll find some of Manitoba’s<br />

finest sandy beaches.<br />

Turtle Mountain<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Souris<br />

Manitoba Legislative Building<br />

Dauphin<br />

Riding Mountain<br />

National Park<br />

Brandon<br />

Boissevain<br />

Lake<br />

Manitoba<br />

WINNIPEG<br />

Hecla<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Gimli<br />

Oak Hammock<br />

Marsh<br />

Oak Hammock Marsh<br />

Oak Hammock Marsh is a 36 square kilometre<br />

Wildlife Management Area that is one of North<br />

America’s birding hotspots. It includes a restored<br />

prairie marsh, aspen-oak bluff, waterfowl lure<br />

crops, artesian springs, 30 kilometres of trails, and<br />

some of Manitoba’s last remaining expanses of the<br />

highly endangered tall-grass prairie. Each season at<br />

the marsh offers unique opportunities: it is home<br />

to 25 species of mammal, 296 species of bird,<br />

numerous amphibians, reptiles, fish and countless<br />

invertebrates. The number of waterfowl using the<br />

marsh during migration can exceed 400,000 at any<br />

one time: for these reasons Oak Hammock Marsh<br />

has been designated as a Ramsar Site, a wetland of<br />

international importance.<br />

International Peace Gardens, Boissevain<br />

Manitoba: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Oak Hammock Marsh<br />

41


42<br />

Manitoba wheat fields<br />

Riding Mountain<br />

National Park<br />

Situated amidst a sea of agricultural land, Riding<br />

Mountain rises dramatically from the prairie<br />

landscape. Forming part of the Manitoba<br />

Escarpment, this ‘island’ reserve is best known for<br />

its black bear sightings but also protects a wide<br />

variety of wildlife and vegetation areas. The<br />

eastern perimeter is formed by a high ridge<br />

studded with dense evergreen forests of spruce,<br />

pine, balsam fir and tamarack and is the best place<br />

to spot black bears. This gives way to a highland<br />

plateau of mixed forests and lakes while elsewhere<br />

open meadows and grasslands provide perfect<br />

habitats for moose, elk and a herd of plains bison.<br />

This vast expanse of wilderness is approximately<br />

50 kilometres long by 100 wide and has some of<br />

Manitoba’s most beautiful scenery as well as its<br />

finest walking and biking trails.<br />

Riding Mountain Guest Ranch<br />

Chuck-wagon racing<br />

RIDING MOUNTAIN<br />

GUEST RANCH<br />

Riding Mountain Guest Ranch is the charming<br />

lakeside three-storey farmhouse of the Irwin<br />

family, located in the rolling aspen woodlands just<br />

south of the national park. Guests enjoy a relaxed<br />

friendly atmosphere in a beautiful natural setting,<br />

with four comfortable bedrooms and scrumptious<br />

meals prepared by Candy – an excellent cook.<br />

The ranch house has a delightful veranda and<br />

sunroom overlooking the secluded lake, a hot tub,<br />

winter sauna, billiards room and a natural history<br />

library. Outside there are wildlife viewing blinds,<br />

canoes, kayaks, and walking trails.<br />

WALKINSHAW PLACE,<br />

NEAR BOISSEVAIN<br />

Just next to Turtle Mountain Provincial Park in<br />

southwest Manitoba, Walkinshaw Place is a<br />

beautifully restored Victorian farmhouse that<br />

offers bed and breakfast accommodation. With<br />

just four en suite guest rooms, it is an intimate<br />

property where guests are well cared for by<br />

hosts, Peter and Linda Albrecht. A sumptuous<br />

breakfast buffet, served in the dining room<br />

amongst antique furnishings and local art works,<br />

consists of seasonal fruits and juices, muffins,<br />

scones, breads, cereals, and yogurts.


Farm and Wildlife Trail<br />

Southern Manitoba has a diverse range of rural<br />

and wilderness scenery to explore and this<br />

delightful self-drive itinerary highlights the best of<br />

the region, exploring the beaches and islands of<br />

Manitoba’s lakes, encountering the bears and<br />

wildlife of Riding Mountain National Park and<br />

tasting traditional ranch life on a prairie farm.<br />

Sunflowers in southern Manitoba<br />

Pisew Falls, Manitoba<br />

Day 1<br />

Drive from Winnipeg to Oak<br />

Hammock Marsh before continuing<br />

via the Icelandic heritage village of<br />

Gimli to Hecla Island Provincial Park.<br />

Day 2<br />

Having discovered the delights of<br />

Hecla, drive across the narrows of<br />

Lake Manitoba to Riding Mountain<br />

National Park for a two night stay.<br />

Upon arrival join a four hour black<br />

bear watching trip.<br />

Day 3<br />

Join an early morning wildlife safari<br />

in the national park, followed by<br />

another evening of bear viewing.<br />

Day 4<br />

Head south through Brandon to the<br />

small rural town of Boissevain for a<br />

stay on a small working farm.<br />

Day 5<br />

After a full farm breakfast return to<br />

Winnipeg at the end of your tour.<br />

Bears in Riding Mountain National Park<br />

Hecla Island<br />

In the heart of Lake Winnipeg, Hecla Island<br />

measures just six by twenty-six kilometres.<br />

The island is a paradise for wildlife and nature<br />

enthusiasts, forming part of Hecla Provincial Park,<br />

created in 1969 that also protects four separate<br />

islands: Black, Goose, Deer and Punk. Settled in<br />

the 1870s by Icelandic people, Hecla village has<br />

now been restored and provides a fascinating<br />

insight into the lives of the original settlers. You<br />

can follow a trail through Grassy Narrows Marsh<br />

or relax on a sandy beach: whichever you choose<br />

you’re likely to see moose, white-tailed deer and<br />

black bears, as well as some of the 180 bird<br />

species found in the park.<br />

HECLA OASIS RESORT,<br />

HECLA ISLAND<br />

Surrounded by the spectacular natural beauty<br />

and the clear waters of Lake Winnipeg, Hecla<br />

Oasis Resort is located within Hecla Provincial<br />

Park. The resort has been recently refurbished<br />

to provide modern comfortable rooms and the<br />

extensive range of amenities includes several<br />

restaurants, a spa and wellness centre, a superb<br />

golf course and a water park with three indoor<br />

swimming pools and another in the open air.<br />

Manitoba’s Icelandic heritage<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Manitoba: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

First Nations dancer<br />

Historic grain elevators<br />

43


Sunset on the tundra<br />

Churchill and Hudson Bay<br />

The little town of Churchill is situated in northern<br />

Manitoba on the edge of Hudson Bay, an area of<br />

unique diversity where taiga, tundra, boreal forest<br />

and coastal estuary meet. Established early in the<br />

1700s the town grew into a prosperous trading<br />

post but declined in the 19th century when it was<br />

bypassed by faster overland routes. Even today<br />

this is a rather dishevelled community, made up<br />

of Inuit, Cree and white settlers, that has only<br />

recently found a new role as the ‘Polar Bear<br />

Capital of the World’. Each autumn the area’s<br />

polar bears venture onto the newly-frozen pack<br />

ice to hunt for seals, but there are good reasons<br />

to visit in the summer months too: beluga whales<br />

and birds abound. Sights to see in town include<br />

the Polar Bear Compound which houses orphan<br />

cubs and anti-social adults, an excellent Eskimo<br />

Museum and Cape Merry National Historic Site.<br />

Other places to see nearby include Prince of<br />

Wales Fort and York Factory, site of the Hudson<br />

Bay Company’s first trading post.<br />

General store in Churchill<br />

AURORA INN, CHURCHILL<br />

The Aurora Inn offers comfortable lodgings in this<br />

remote outpost. Spacious two-storey suites are<br />

equipped with a loft bedroom containing either a<br />

queen or two double beds: ideal for couples or<br />

families. Private bathroom facilities, fully-equipped<br />

kitchens and wheelchair access make the inn one<br />

of the best in the region, and guests are also<br />

within walking distance of Churchill’s restaurants,<br />

bars and railway station.<br />

44<br />

Aurora Inn<br />

Polar bear and cubs


Birds, Bears & Belugas<br />

Mike Reimer with curious beluga whales<br />

Wild flowers on the tundra<br />

This unique itinerary flies you north to the shores<br />

of the Hudson Bay where, with enthusiastic<br />

expert guides, you can swim and snorkel with<br />

beluga whales and marvel at relaxed and well-fed<br />

polar bears swimming and foraging on the shore.<br />

Seal River is the only lodge in the region, giving<br />

you a unique opportunity for intimate encounters<br />

with the wildlife of this special place.<br />

Day 1<br />

Fly from Winnipeg to Churchill and<br />

then onwards by light aircraft to Seal<br />

River Heritage Lodge, your home for<br />

the following six nights.<br />

Days 2 - 5 During these days you will join at<br />

least three expeditions by zodiac<br />

to observe beluga whales, seals, sea<br />

birds and polar bears. Daily walking<br />

tours are also part of the<br />

programme to discover other<br />

wildlife and lovely wild flowers.<br />

Day 6<br />

After breakfast enjoy one last walk<br />

on the coast before leaving the<br />

lodge for your return flights to<br />

Winnipeg at the end of your tour.<br />

Snowy owl and chicks<br />

The Wildlife of<br />

Northern Manitoba<br />

In northern Manitoba the lake-studded boreal<br />

forests of the interior plains converge with the<br />

endless tundra of the Canadian Shield. This<br />

remote wilderness spawns native wildlife that is<br />

some of the most thrilling on the continent. The<br />

Seal River and the southern shores of Hudson<br />

Bay are the summer haunts of polar bears and<br />

thousands of beluga whales, whilst caribou and<br />

countless migratory birds flock to the flowerstrewn<br />

tundra landscape. October sees the<br />

gathering of polar bears on the shores of the<br />

Hudson Bay as they wait for the winter pack-ice<br />

to form into seal-hunting platforms. To encounter<br />

these magnificent animals, the largest of all bears,<br />

at such close quarters is truly awe-inspiring.<br />

SEAL RIVER HERITAGE LODGE<br />

Through the months of July and August Mike<br />

Reimer’s Seal River Heritage Lodge is the only place<br />

where you can go for a wilderness walk, capturing<br />

both polar bears and beluga whales in the same<br />

picture frame. You can also take to the water and<br />

kayak or snorkel with the belugas. With just the one<br />

fly-in lodge on the entire Hudson Bay coast, the<br />

area is so remote that wildlife has little fear of man.<br />

Just getting to Seal River Heritage Lodge is a scenic<br />

highlight, as your group of up to sixteen guests is<br />

flown to a little haven with a comfortable sitting<br />

room, cosy fireplaces, expansive picture windows<br />

and modern amenities. The meals are so good here<br />

that Seal River have even produced their own<br />

cookbook, with favourite dishes including almondcrusted<br />

Arctic char and jalapeno goose breasts. The<br />

Seal River guides include photographers, biologists<br />

and polar bear specialists who are all experts in<br />

their field: you won’t just observe, but also learn<br />

about this spectacular wilderness.<br />

Watching a polar bear from the tundra buggy<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Manitoba: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Guests at Seal River Heritage Lodge<br />

Wildlife watching<br />

45


Ontario<br />

This huge province stretches all the way<br />

from the Great Lakes on the USA border<br />

to the frozen shores of Hudson Bay, covering<br />

more than one million square kilometres.<br />

Home to Canada’s largest city, Toronto, and<br />

its capital, Ottawa, the province also boasts<br />

one of the world’s great natural wonders,<br />

Niagara Falls. Charming villages such as<br />

Niagara-on-the-Lake and Goderich can be<br />

combined with the wineries and birdlife of<br />

Pelee Island, the thriving art scene of Prince<br />

Edward County and Manitoulin Island’s<br />

large First Nations population who hold<br />

pow-wows of traditional dancing and<br />

singing throughout the summer months.<br />

Killarney and Algonquin Provincial Parks<br />

are accessible gems that offer wonderful<br />

wildlife viewing, canoeing and fishing.<br />

Meanwhile, the remote north and west is<br />

a land of forest and tundra, with a vibrant<br />

Cree culture and important settler history<br />

including the Hudson Bay Company’s first<br />

outpost at Moosonee. Polar Bear Provincial<br />

Park covers thousands of square kilometres<br />

and visiting these remote areas by plane, train<br />

and boat opens up the possibility of excellent<br />

wildlife viewing on both land and sea. With<br />

its modern cities, grand landscapes and prolific<br />

wildlife, the great expanses of Ontario are a<br />

joy to explore.<br />

46


Toronto<br />

With almost 2.5 million residents, this multi-cultural<br />

city is the largest in Canada. The shopping and<br />

nightlife here are unsurpassed and this is where<br />

you’ll find the country’s most varied and rewarding<br />

restaurants. The city has theatres to rival London<br />

and New York and of course no visit is complete<br />

without a trip to the top of the C.N. Tower.<br />

At 553 metres this is one of the world’s tallest<br />

buildings and affords stunning views over the city<br />

and Lake Ontario. There are some excellent<br />

museums, including the Royal Ontario Museum<br />

and the Art Gallery of Ontario. Toronto’s Rogers<br />

Centre is the perfect venue for watching a baseball<br />

or ice hockey game whilst those in search of<br />

escapism need travel no further than the islands<br />

just offshore in Lake Ontario. Nearby lies<br />

thunderous Niagara Falls, a spectacular must-see<br />

icon of Canada that can easily be visited as a day<br />

trip from Toronto.<br />

MANITOBA<br />

Kenora<br />

Lake of the<br />

Woods<br />

ONTARIO<br />

Peawanuck<br />

Thunder Bay<br />

Lake<br />

Superior<br />

Sault Ste<br />

Marie<br />

0 125 miles<br />

0 201 kilometres<br />

Hudson Bay<br />

Polar Bear<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

James<br />

Bay<br />

Hearst<br />

Timmins<br />

Espanola<br />

Manitoulin<br />

Island<br />

Bruce<br />

Peninsula<br />

Moosonee<br />

Cochrane<br />

Killarney<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Owen<br />

Sound<br />

Algonquin<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

OTTAWA<br />

Haliburton<br />

Port Severn<br />

Kingston<br />

Lake<br />

Huron TORONTO Lake<br />

Goderich<br />

Ontario<br />

Niagara on the Lake<br />

Niagara Falls<br />

Prince<br />

Edward<br />

County<br />

Windsor<br />

Pelee<br />

Island<br />

Lake Erie<br />

Toronto skyline<br />

FAIRMONT ROYAL YORK,<br />

TORONTO<br />

At the heart of Toronto, this magnificent hotel<br />

was once the tallest structure in the British<br />

Empire. Generations of the Royal Family have<br />

stayed here, most recently the Queen and<br />

Prince Philip in 1997. The lobby is stunning with<br />

distinctive clocks, enormous chandeliers and an<br />

elaborately painted ceiling. Each of the 1,600<br />

traditionally furnished guest rooms has modern<br />

amenities and the hotel offers an unrivalled<br />

selection of facilities including several restaurants,<br />

the sumptuous Library Bar, gym, spa and<br />

basement boutique shopping parade.<br />

COSMOPOLITAN, TORONTO<br />

Poised in the heart of downtown Toronto, this<br />

chic and trendy hotel appeals to guests of all ages.<br />

The hotel has a total of 97 suites, each featuring<br />

floor to ceiling windows, a private balcony,<br />

kitchen, large flat screen television in the sitting<br />

room area, CD players and a small fountain. All<br />

are stunningly designed with natural wood and<br />

use state-of-the-art technology to save energy.<br />

The Doku 15 restaurant excels in modern<br />

Japanese cuisine with a pan-Asian twist whilst<br />

the Shizen Spa and Solarium offers a full range<br />

of treatments.<br />

Gloucester Square Inns<br />

Fairmont Royal York<br />

GLOUCESTER SQUARE INNS,<br />

TORONTO<br />

Set in the only remaining block of one of<br />

Toronto’s most exclusive 19th century streets<br />

lie three historic homes, now restored to offer<br />

27 guest rooms and suites. The Edward Gallow<br />

Mansion, Charles Rundle Mansion and the<br />

Cawthra House offer guests a chance to<br />

experience the flavour and style of the past<br />

updated with all the comforts of the modern<br />

age. Each of the elegant rooms has been<br />

individually decorated, there is a full-service spa<br />

and continental breakfast is served each morning.<br />

These heritage properties are only five minutes<br />

walk from the heart of downtown Toronto.<br />

The big game<br />

Ontario: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

47


A birds-eye view of the falls<br />

Niagara Falls<br />

One of the natural wonders of the world, Niagara<br />

Falls never fails to impress by the sheer scale and<br />

volume of thundering water. The famous<br />

Horseshoe Falls are divided from the American<br />

Falls by tiny Goat Island, and the whole sight is a<br />

dizzying spectacle of nature at its most powerful.<br />

There are several ways to see the falls: a whiteknuckle<br />

jetboat ride through the Niagara Gorge<br />

or the leisurely ‘Maid of the Mist’ cruise to the<br />

foot of the falls, the ‘Journey Behind the Falls’ is<br />

a short walk which takes you literally behind the<br />

massive wall of water and a helicopter flight will<br />

give you a breathtaking perspective of the region.<br />

Niagara-on-the-Lake<br />

Set on Lake Ontario and the Niagara River,<br />

historic Niagara-on-the-Lake is a small but<br />

captivating town of historic buildings, festooned<br />

with flowers. The town was once the capital<br />

of the colony of Upper Canada and the<br />

reconstructed Fort George National Historic Site<br />

was the British military headquarters. Many come<br />

to Niagara-on-the-Lake for the well-regarded<br />

Shaw Festival Theatre and the area is known<br />

for its wineries, many of which offer tours and<br />

tastings. Excursions include thrilling jet-boat rides<br />

on the Niagara River or gentle bike rides along<br />

scenic trails that follow the river.<br />

SHAW CLUB HOTEL,<br />

NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE<br />

Perfectly located just across the main street from<br />

the Shaw Festival Theatre, the Shaw Club feels<br />

more like a private club than a hotel. Rooms are<br />

fitted with the latest technology, including i-pod<br />

stations and plasma televisions, and are adorned<br />

with original photographs by local artists. Each<br />

room features a king size feather-top bed and a<br />

luxurious contemporary bathroom. Zees Patio<br />

and Grill offers both gourmet and casual dining<br />

with the largest patio in town, perfect for al<br />

fresco dining. In addition there is an exercise<br />

room and a lobby lounge with complimentary<br />

coffee and a DVD library.<br />

CECILE’S HOUSE,<br />

NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE<br />

This gem of a bed and breakfast is in the heart<br />

of the town but quietly set away from the main<br />

street. Your host Chris is a retired top chef and<br />

will ensure a truly memorable stay. The house,<br />

dating from the 1890s, is named after his<br />

grandmother and is crammed with period<br />

antiques. There are just three rooms, the Master’s<br />

Suite, the French Room and the Country Room,<br />

each with a private bathroom and cable television.<br />

Enjoy an aperitif on the front terrace or in the<br />

charming sitting room. Breakfast is a treat to be<br />

savoured – don’t miss the chocolate bread or<br />

the hot fruit clafoutis.<br />

Niagara Helicopters<br />

From the moment of take-off awe-inspiring<br />

views begin, so make sure your camera is handy.<br />

The flight follows the Niagara River from the<br />

Whirlpool area, over the Whirlpool Rapids and<br />

the Rainbow Bridge. The green grass and floral<br />

beauty of Queen Victoria Park stretch below as<br />

the helicopter passes over the American Falls and<br />

the Skylon Tower. The highlight comes next: the<br />

Canadian Horseshoe Falls where rainbows appear<br />

and disappear from all directions. Finally the<br />

helicopter begins to level off for the descent<br />

back to base.<br />

Pelee Island<br />

Pelee Island is Canada’s most southerly inhabited<br />

point and shares the 42nd parallel with cities such<br />

as Barcelona. This small flat island, approximately<br />

six by thirteen kilometres in size, lies at the<br />

western end of Lake Erie and is reached by ferry<br />

from either Leamington or Kingsville. The mild<br />

climate is ideal for vineyards, and the Pelee Island<br />

Winery is a well-known attraction. The pace of<br />

life here is slower so there is plenty of time to<br />

enjoy the beaches, cycle around the island, enjoy<br />

really fantastic bird watching or visit the winery<br />

for a tour and tasting.<br />

48


Water and Wine Trail<br />

Cecile’s House<br />

Highland Manor<br />

Leaving the cities behind, discover the villages,<br />

lakes, sandy beaches and little islands that form a<br />

charming and idyllic landscape in the south of the<br />

province. This is a part of Ontario that remains<br />

relatively unknown outside local circles and yet<br />

has lots to offer the traveller seeking an escape<br />

‘off the beaten track’. From the Great Lakes to<br />

the vineyards of Niagara and Pelee Island the<br />

area is fresh and intoxicating.<br />

Day 1<br />

Collect your hire car in Toronto and<br />

drive south along the shore of Lake<br />

Ontario to Niagara-on-the-Lake.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Spend a whole day discovering<br />

historic Niagara-on-the-Lake and<br />

nearby Niagara Falls.<br />

Your drive today takes you along<br />

the shoreline of Lake Erie to<br />

Leamington. You may wish to<br />

break your journey at the lovely<br />

little village of Port Stanley. Upon<br />

arrival take the car ferry over to<br />

Pelee Island.<br />

Today you have a full day to<br />

discover the delights of Pelee Island.<br />

Take the ferry back to Leamington<br />

and then continue your drive<br />

northwards to Goderich on the<br />

shore of Lake Huron.<br />

Fathom Five National Marine Park<br />

Goderich<br />

and Lake Huron<br />

Steeped in historic charm, the town of Goderich<br />

on Lake Huron is frequently described as ‘the<br />

prettiest town in Canada’ and it is well worth<br />

basing yourself here for a couple of days. It has<br />

several distinctive buildings including an octagonal<br />

town square, court house, Huron Historic Gaol,<br />

the Governor’s House and Huron County<br />

Museum. There are three excellent sandy beaches<br />

on the lakeshore that are great for swimming,<br />

sailing and windsurfing and are often blessed with<br />

spectacular sunsets. Nearby Bayfield is another<br />

pretty historic village worthy of exploration.<br />

BENMILLER INN AND SPA,<br />

GODERICH<br />

This beautifully restored former wool mill<br />

occupies a delightful sylvan dell east of Goderich.<br />

The various mill buildings have been transformed<br />

to provide 57 individually themed guest rooms,<br />

each furnished with feather-top beds and<br />

sumptuous linens and some come<br />

with their own sauna, fireplace, or Jacuzzi. The<br />

Woollen Mill houses a fireside lounge, dining<br />

room and a pub whilst the striking River Mill<br />

contains a patio, indoor swimming pool, sauna,<br />

hot tub and the Benmiller Spa.<br />

Bruce Peninsula and Fathom<br />

Five National Marine Park<br />

The Bruce Peninsula separates Lake Huron from<br />

Georgian Bay and is renowned for the magnificent<br />

coastal walking along the Bruce Trail. At the<br />

northern tip of the peninsula lies Fathom Five<br />

National Marine Park which protects curious rock<br />

formations such as Flowerpot island. In this area<br />

twenty shipwrecks lie in shallow crystal-clear<br />

waters, popular with divers but also perfectly<br />

visible from glass-bottomed boats. The little town<br />

of Tobermory is the departure point for the ferry<br />

over to Manitoulin Island whilst the old port of<br />

Owen Sound, the town at the foot of the<br />

peninsula, is a great place to stay while exploring<br />

the region.<br />

HIGHLAND MANOR, OWEN SOUND<br />

Hidden amongst ancient maples in the town of<br />

Owen Sound, Highland Manor is a lovely Victorian<br />

house that has evolved into a delightful bed and<br />

breakfast. Guests are delighted by the high ceilings,<br />

hardwood floors and library, dining and music<br />

rooms. Owners Linda and Paul pride themselves on<br />

attention to detail, such as the flowers in each of<br />

the four guest rooms, and their scrumptious<br />

breakfasts. Often you will be enchanted as music<br />

played by Linda on the grand piano tinkles softly<br />

through the French windows, adding a particularly<br />

memorable charm to your stay.<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

The pretty little town of Goderich<br />

awaits your discovery today, or you<br />

may wish to relax on one of the<br />

many lovely sandy beaches.<br />

Drive back to Toronto to drop<br />

off your hire car at the end of<br />

your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Shaw Festival Theatre, Niagara-on-the-Lake<br />

Ontario: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

49


A moose in Algonquin Provincial Park<br />

Manitoulin Island<br />

A continuation of the Niagara Escarpment,<br />

Manitoulin Island is strikingly different from the<br />

harsh grey rocks of the Canadian Shield, with white<br />

cliffs, more than 100 freshwater lakes, gentle woods<br />

and open farmland. Manitoulin means ‘spirit island’<br />

in the Ojibwe language and today a quarter of the<br />

inhabitants are First Nations belonging to the<br />

Ojibwe, Odawa and Potawatomi peoples. Every<br />

August, Manitoulin Island hosts Canada's largest<br />

pow-wow, a splendid celebration of native culture.<br />

Smaller pow-wows take place throughout the<br />

summer and First Nations guided touring is a<br />

highlight for any visitor. The island attracts not<br />

only summer sailors, fishermen and water sports<br />

enthusiasts but also archaeologists who have<br />

discovered a 10,000 year old Paleo-Indian site.<br />

At any time of year the ‘Cup and Saucer’ walking<br />

trail provides spectacular views over the island.<br />

Killarney Provincial Park<br />

One of Ontario’s jewels, Killarney Provincial Park<br />

is a wilderness of sapphire lakes, jack pine ridges<br />

and birch forests that include some of Ontario’s<br />

most outstanding landscapes. Established in 1964<br />

and extending to 341 square kilometres, the<br />

park’s massive white quartzite hills and clear<br />

deep lakes offer an unparalleled environment<br />

for canoeing, fishing and walking.<br />

KILLARNEY MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

KILLARNEY PROVINCIAL PARK<br />

Killarney Mountain Lodge is a casual, comfortable<br />

property on the north shore of Georgian Bay.<br />

Family owned and operated for 45 years, the<br />

lodge is well-known for its friendly ambience, a<br />

distinctive cuisine and its exciting programme of<br />

outdoor wilderness adventures. The lodge has a<br />

range of accommodation from rooms in the main<br />

lodge to cabins in the grounds. Dining is a delight,<br />

with a strong emphasis on using the freshest and<br />

most wholesome ingredients, and there is also a<br />

waterside barbeque. The lodge has a heated<br />

swimming pool, a sauna, tennis courts and a<br />

marina offering a range of water-based activities<br />

including sailing, fishing and sea-kayaking.<br />

Port Severn<br />

The tiny settlement of Port Severn lies on the<br />

shore of Severn Sound in the southeast corner<br />

of Georgian Bay and is the gateway to the<br />

Trent-Severn Waterway. The village, originally<br />

named Severn Mills, was founded with the<br />

creation of a saw mill in 1830. Today it is<br />

perfectly positioned for exploring Georgian Bay<br />

Islands National Park, Big Chute Marine Railway<br />

and the pretty lakeside inlets by boat or canoe.<br />

INN AT CHRISTIE’S MILL,<br />

PORT SEVERN<br />

Surrounded by fragrant pine trees on a crystal<br />

clear lake-front, this European-style inn offers a<br />

sophisticated blend of old world charm and<br />

contemporary luxuries. Tastefully appointed,<br />

each of the 43 guest rooms has feather-top beds,<br />

a fireplace and a balcony overlooking the lake.<br />

The dining room has a mouth-watering menu<br />

and splendid views of shimmering Gloucester<br />

Pool and the surrounding woods. After a day of<br />

exploring you may wish to treat yourself to the<br />

pleasures of the Avalon spa.<br />

50<br />

Canoeing in Algonquin Provincial Park


The Jewels of Ontario<br />

Ontario’s near north offers a captivating variety<br />

of terrain and experiences. This itinerary has been<br />

carefully planned to ensure that each day brings<br />

a new and exciting adventure.<br />

Day 1<br />

Having collected your hire car, drive<br />

north from Toronto to the small<br />

town of Owen Sound.<br />

Your drive today takes you along<br />

the Bruce Peninsula to the tiny port<br />

of Tobermory. From here take the<br />

ferry to Manitoulin Island.<br />

Beaver<br />

Killarney Mountain Lodge<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Spend a full day exploring Manitoulin<br />

Island, well known for its First<br />

Nations culture. You may wish to go<br />

to an authentic pow-wow if one is<br />

taking place.<br />

Day 4<br />

Drive north from Manitoulin to<br />

Killarney Provincial Park.<br />

Day 5<br />

Enjoy a full day in this delightful<br />

provincial park, perhaps going hiking<br />

or experiencing some of the many<br />

other activities.<br />

Day 6<br />

Your drive today takes you past<br />

the small towns of Parry Sound<br />

and Huntsville to Algonquin<br />

Provincial Park.<br />

First Nations’ guides<br />

Algonquin Provincial Park<br />

Algonquin Provincial Park is a magnificent natural<br />

paradise of lush maple and fir woodlands, spring<br />

wildflower meadows, sparkling lakes and plentiful<br />

wildlife: to many Canadians it is as much a symbol<br />

of Canada as Niagara Falls. Located just two and<br />

a half hours drive north of Toronto, you can go<br />

walking, fishing and canoeing for hours without<br />

seeing a soul. Algonquin was the first of Ontario’s<br />

parks, founded in 1893 and with almost eight<br />

thousand square kilometres it offers many<br />

chances to see moose, deer, beaver and black<br />

bears in their natural habitat. The park authorities<br />

have been at the forefront of wolf research since<br />

the 1950s and on Thursdays in August they<br />

arrange communal ‘wolf howls’ that elicit ready<br />

responses from wolves in the area: a spine<br />

tingling way to interact with nature.<br />

KILLARNEY LODGE,<br />

ALGONQUIN PROVINCIAL PARK<br />

The award-winning Killarney Lodge is set well<br />

inside Algonquin Provincial Park by the Lake of<br />

Two Rivers. The rustic and beautifully decorated<br />

cabins have been a favourite of Canadians for<br />

over 70 years and offer comfortable and<br />

charming accommodation. As a family-run<br />

property it has many personal touches such as a<br />

cosy wood stove in the guest lounge where tea,<br />

coffee, fresh fruit and snacks are always available.<br />

Grey wolf<br />

One-bedroom cabins have a bed-sitting room,<br />

while the two-bedroom option has a separate<br />

bedroom: both types of room face the water<br />

and include the use of a canoe that is waiting just<br />

outside the door. Hearty Canadian meals are<br />

included in your stay (bring your own wine) with<br />

packed lunches to allow you to head off, each<br />

day, by car or canoe.<br />

Pathways of the Algonquin<br />

A few specialist operators run small-group<br />

wilderness adventures in Algonquin Provincial<br />

Park, staying in lakeside log cabins. <strong>Travel</strong> from<br />

Toronto to the shores of Lake Surprise for three<br />

days of ‘back to basics’, with knowledgeable<br />

wilderness guides taking you out on adventures<br />

that can include early morning canoe trips in<br />

search of moose and scenic twilight walks to<br />

listen to the wolves. While these activities form<br />

the backbone of the trip, there are also bushcraft<br />

workshops, hearty meals by the campfire or in<br />

the lodge and of course each day starts with a<br />

grand breakfast with lashings of maple syrup.<br />

Killarney Lodge<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Spend a full day experiencing the<br />

magic of this dense woodland.<br />

There are some great walking trails<br />

and canoeing or you may wish to<br />

take part in a wolf howl.<br />

Return to Toronto at the end of<br />

your trip and drop off your hire<br />

car upon arrival.<br />

EXTENSION<br />

A perfect addition to this tour is a two night stay<br />

at Sault Ste. Marie, known locally as ‘the Soo’. A<br />

visit here can be made after a stay on Manitoulin<br />

Island and before staying at Killarney Provincial<br />

Park. The town lies on the edge of both Lake<br />

Huron and Lake Superior and is famous for its<br />

locks that span the St. Lawrence Seaway. The<br />

highlight of a stay is likely to be the day trip on<br />

the Algoma Railway that leads through the<br />

magnificent Agawa Canyon.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer complete<br />

freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us to<br />

discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Ontario: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

51


Ottawa’s Parliament buildings<br />

Haliburton<br />

The village of Haliburton lies just south of<br />

Algonquin and two hours to the north of<br />

Toronto. It is a likeable place with a selection of<br />

restaurants, art studios and antique shops. Its main<br />

attractions to the international visitor are its<br />

proximity to the park and a Wolf Centre with<br />

displays and interpretation of wolf behaviour. If<br />

you want to experience the activities and wildlife<br />

of the park but don’t want to immerse yourself<br />

fully by staying in rustic log cabins, then<br />

Haliburton offers you the ideal alternative.<br />

SIR SAM’S INN, HALIBURTON<br />

Situated just outside Haliburton, Sir Sam’s Inn is<br />

on the edge of Eagle Lake. Formerly the home of<br />

Sir Samuel Hughes, the property is set in lovely<br />

countryside and offers 26 rooms, some in the<br />

original lodge and others along the edge of the<br />

lake. The inn is renowned for its superb dining<br />

and recently a new spa has been added. During<br />

your stay you can stroll through the forests of<br />

the Haliburton Highlands, cruise on the lake, try<br />

a variety of water sports from water-skiing to<br />

swimming or simply relax with a book whilst<br />

listening to the lapping waters of the lake.<br />

Prince Edward County<br />

Jutting into the deep blue waters of Lake Ontario<br />

between Toronto and Ottawa, Prince Edward<br />

County is a mecca for artists, nature lovers and<br />

anyone looking for an island-style adventure.<br />

Renowned for its sailing, fishing and giant sand<br />

dunes, it is also known for its live theatre, artists’<br />

studios and galleries, delicious local food and a<br />

growing wine industry. The historic towns of<br />

Kingston and Gananoque are easily accessible<br />

and from here cruises head out to the beautiful<br />

Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence Seaway<br />

formed, according to Iroquois legend, by a battle<br />

between two giants who hurled great granite<br />

boulders into the river.<br />

MERRILL INN,<br />

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY<br />

The Merrill Inn was built in 1878 for Sir Edward<br />

Merrill, a local attorney and friend of Sir John A.<br />

MacDonald, Canada’s first Prime Minister. A<br />

historically significant building for its unique<br />

architectural style, Merrill House was converted<br />

into a charming inn in the 1980s. There are just<br />

13 comfortable guest rooms, each with a<br />

luxurious bathroom, and a superb restaurant and<br />

wine bar. The gardens are a delight and have a<br />

lovely patio – the perfect place to relax with a<br />

book and a glass of local wine. The current<br />

owners, Edward and Amy Shubert, have over 40<br />

years of combined hospitality expertise and assure<br />

you of a warm and friendly welcome.<br />

52<br />

Sir Sam’s Inn<br />

Merrill Inn


Ontario’s Heartland<br />

There is much more to Ontario besides Toronto<br />

and Niagara Falls and this route leads you through<br />

the heart of the province, from Georgian Bay to<br />

the Haliburton Highlands, and from the shores<br />

of Lake Ontario and the historic towns of the<br />

St. Lawrence Seaway, to the capital of the<br />

country, Ottawa.<br />

First Nations experience on Victoria Island<br />

Museum of Civilisation, Ottowa<br />

Day 1<br />

Collect your hire car in Toronto and,<br />

heading north, drive to Port Severn<br />

in the most easterly corner of<br />

Georgian Bay.<br />

Day 2<br />

Enjoy a full day exploring delightful<br />

Port Severn or visiting the nearby<br />

recreated Jesuit and First Nations<br />

settlement of Ste. Marie among<br />

the Hurons.<br />

Day 3<br />

Your journey today takes you inland<br />

through Muskoka, Ontario’s ‘cottage<br />

country’ to Haliburton.<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend a day exploring Haliburton’s<br />

lovely lakes and wooded hillsides<br />

or perhaps visit nearby Algonquin<br />

Provincial Park.<br />

Day 5<br />

Leaving Haliburton behind, your<br />

drive today takes you south to<br />

Prince Edward County, jutting into<br />

Lake Ontario.<br />

The Rideau Canal<br />

Ottawa<br />

Canada’s delightful capital city occupies an<br />

enviable location high on the Ottawa River on<br />

the Ontario/Québec provincial border. This is<br />

a city steeped in tradition which manifests itself<br />

in the magnificent Parliament buildings, the<br />

Governor-General’s residence and the many<br />

parks and gardens. The Parliament buildings, in<br />

particular the Peace Tower and library, are well<br />

worth a visit, especially during mid-summer when<br />

the Changing of the Guards ceremonies take<br />

place. Another principal attraction is the Rideau<br />

Canal which freezes over in winter to form the<br />

world’s largest ice-skating rink. As capital, the<br />

city is home to the National Gallery of Canada,<br />

the Canadian War Museum and the Royal<br />

Canadian Mint. The Museum of Civilisation is<br />

particularly impressive, with its insights into<br />

First Nations culture.<br />

HOTEL INDIGO, OTTAWA<br />

In this newly-opened and contemporary<br />

boutique hotel the focus is on impeccable<br />

service with a large range of facilities being<br />

available including a fitness centre, swimming<br />

pool and a restaurant. Conveniently located in<br />

downtown Ottawa, it has 106 rooms decorated<br />

in a smart modern style, offering a relaxing base<br />

for your stay in Canada’s capital.<br />

FAIRMONT CHÂTEAU LAURIER,<br />

OTTAWA<br />

Originally opened in 1912 as a railway hotel and<br />

reminiscent of a French château, the Fairmont<br />

Château Laurier was named after Sir Wilfred<br />

Laurier, one of Canada’s Prime Ministers, and is<br />

now Ottawa’s most famous hotel. Located in<br />

the heart of the city next to the Parliament<br />

buildings and the Rideau Canal, the hotel offers<br />

429 well-appointed rooms with views of the city<br />

or Parliament Hill. The many leisure facilities<br />

include a swimming pool, spa, gym, and several<br />

bars and restaurants.<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

A day to relax in this unspoilt and<br />

bucolic land of rolling countryside,<br />

beaches and vineyards.<br />

Drive to Ottawa, perhaps stopping<br />

to explore the lovely old towns of<br />

Kingston, Gananoque, and Brockville<br />

en route. You may also wish to<br />

visit Upper Canada Village at<br />

Morrisburg, a detailed re-creation<br />

of an 1860s village.<br />

Canada’s capital, with its parks,<br />

museums and art galleries vies for<br />

your attention today. Don’t miss<br />

the wonderful Parliament buildings.<br />

Drop off your hire car in Ottawa<br />

at the end of your journey.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

There are two excellent additions to this tour which<br />

you may wish to consider. One is a stay in the<br />

wonderful Laurentian Mountains north of Montréal,<br />

while the other is a stay in Montréal itself. Please<br />

see pages 57 and 58 for further details.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Ontario: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Fairmont Château Laurier<br />

53


54<br />

A polar bear foraging on the shore, Polar Bear Provincial Park<br />

Backcountry Ontario<br />

Ontario’s far-flung western and northern regions<br />

are little-known and rarely visited parts of the<br />

province, but are amongst the most captivating<br />

parts of the country with a varied terrain, plentiful<br />

wildlife and a thriving First Nations heritage<br />

steeped in timeless traditions. These small group<br />

tours, led by an expert guide, enable you to<br />

explore these fascinating regions for a few days.<br />

This is more than a destination: it is an<br />

opportunity to learn about Ontario’s remote<br />

regions and be absorbed by a culture that has<br />

existed since the last Ice Age.<br />

First Nations, Hudson Bay<br />

& Polar Bear Adventure<br />

Your six day long adventure starts with a flight<br />

from Timmins to Moosonee where you will be<br />

met by your Cree host, Clarence Trapper, and<br />

taken by a motorised freighter canoe to Moose<br />

Factory, an island in the Moose River. The<br />

Hudson Bay Company established a trading post<br />

at this ancient First Nations site in 1673 and it<br />

played a key role in the early fur trade. As one<br />

of Ontario’s oldest English-speaking communities<br />

it is redolent with history: a highlight is St Thomas’<br />

Church, built in 1850, with its altar decorated<br />

with hides. During your two night stay you will<br />

travel by freighter canoe to observe beluga<br />

whales feeding in the river and travel to the<br />

Shipsands Bird Sanctuary in James Bay, known<br />

for its concentration of over 300 species of birds.<br />

From Moosonee you fly nearly three hours north<br />

to the remote Cree community of Peawanuck<br />

where your host is Sam Hunter, who will take<br />

you by plane to a tented camp on the shores of<br />

Hudson Bay in Polar Bear Provincial Park.<br />

Covering an area of 62,000 square kilometres this<br />

park is virtually undisturbed and is home to 292<br />

documented bird species as well as caribou and a<br />

large population of polar bears. During your three<br />

Aurora Borealis<br />

night stay you will hopefully see bears swimming<br />

or feeding amongst the park’s grasses and sedges.<br />

Boat excursions to the coast follow in the<br />

footsteps of Henry Hudson in his 1610 search for<br />

the Northwest Passage whilst your Cree guides<br />

explain the history, mythology, beliefs and culture<br />

of their nation: a magical experience for historians,<br />

naturalists and outdoor enthusiasts alike.<br />

CREE VILLAGE ECOLODGE,<br />

MOOSONEE<br />

The Cree Village Ecolodge is Canada’s first<br />

indigenous-owned eco lodge. This new building<br />

is operated by the MoCreebec people in<br />

accordance with traditional values and with a<br />

focus on Cree cultural and ecological<br />

sustainability. The lodge is modelled on a<br />

traditional Cree dwelling and features 20 guest<br />

rooms that are designed for maximum comfort<br />

and minimal environmental impact, with triple<br />

glazed windows, natural wool carpets, organic<br />

cotton bed linen and biodegradable soaps and<br />

shampoos. The lodge’s restaurant serves a<br />

delicious range of traditional Cree organic food<br />

including trout, buffalo, pickerel (a member of<br />

the pike family) and salmon. Surrounded by the<br />

rugged beauty of the Canadian sub-Arctic and<br />

steeped in Cree culture and history, the Cree<br />

Village Ecolodge is the perfect place to<br />

experience the timeless values of the<br />

MoCreebec people.


Making traditional bannock over the fire<br />

St. Thomas’ Church, Moose Factory<br />

First Nations’<br />

Culture Cruise<br />

Your eight day journey starts in Winnipeg where<br />

you will be met by your host and transferred by<br />

road to Kenora on the Lake of the Woods for a<br />

two night stay. Here you will be able to explore<br />

Kenora’s harbour front, experience an authentic<br />

pow-wow and tour a traditional round-house.<br />

Board the 190-passenger M.S. Kenora and cruise<br />

the Lake of the Woods, exploring a maze of<br />

channels and islands where you will see bald<br />

eagles, shore-side wildlife and unspoiled<br />

wilderness. Disembark and check into the Totem<br />

Beluga whale<br />

Lodge, nestled amongst majestic pine trees at the<br />

lake’s edge, for a two night stay. The next day<br />

you travel to an ancient aboriginal burial site<br />

which has deep cultural and spiritual meaning to<br />

indigenous people throughout North America.<br />

People would gather to trade, share, celebrate<br />

and mourn in this area, a heritage manifested in<br />

the many artefacts uncovered here. Re-board<br />

the M.S. Kenora for a journey to Wiley Point<br />

Wilderness Lodge, overlooking Lake of the<br />

Woods, for a two night stay. Here you have time<br />

to explore at your own pace: walking, canoeing,<br />

fishing or hiring a guide to show you aboriginal<br />

pictographs. From Wiley Point you return to<br />

Kenora for a final night with time to visit Kenora<br />

Museum, one of Canada’s finest small museums,<br />

before returning to Winnipeg.<br />

TOTEM LODGE,<br />

LAKE OF THEWOODS<br />

Totem Lodge is tucked along the eastern shore of<br />

western Ontario’s Lake of the Woods. The lodge<br />

has a variety of accommodation, from log cabins<br />

to chalets, each with a screened porch or<br />

outdoor deck, full kitchen, and either a fireplace<br />

or a wood burning stove. The restaurant has a<br />

distinguished reputation and the staff are friendly<br />

and professional. Although primarily a fishing<br />

lodge, the lodge also provides many other<br />

activities such as waterskiing and hiking through<br />

the pristine wilderness.<br />

WILEY POINT WILDERNESS<br />

LODGE, LAKE OF THE WOODS<br />

Situated in the midst of the Lake of the Woods,<br />

Wiley Point Wilderness Lodge basks in nature’s<br />

solitary magnificence amidst an abundance of<br />

wildlife including eagles, bears, deer and<br />

waterfowl. The main lodge has a comfortable<br />

lounge and dining room, and eight suites which<br />

have a walkout to the lower deck and delightful<br />

views. There are also two- or three-bedroomed<br />

cabins in the grounds, each with screened<br />

porches facing the water. There is a small beach<br />

and guests can take a paddle boat or canoe on<br />

leisurely trips on the lake, take a dip in the hot<br />

tub or explore the walking trails.<br />

Cree Village Ecolodge<br />

Ontario: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

MS Kenora<br />

55


Québec<br />

As the largest French-speaking region<br />

outside France and Canada’s largest<br />

province, Québec offers a Gallic charm all of<br />

its own. This manifests itself in a great<br />

culinary heritage of sublime restaurants and<br />

delightful pavement cafés. Québec City is<br />

North America’s only walled city and<br />

Montréal is a sleek and buzzing metropolis,<br />

but away from the urban centres Québec<br />

Province spreads out across the vast unvisited<br />

tracts of tundra on the shores of Hudson Bay<br />

to the pastoral and idyllic Eastern Townships.<br />

The Laurentian Mountains are the<br />

playground of the Québecois throughout the<br />

year, while the St. Lawrence River is the<br />

beating heart around which European settlers<br />

gained a foothold. On the south shore the<br />

Gaspé Peninsula’s mountains are draped in<br />

dense forests that grow down to the water’s<br />

edge. The north shore is home to the thriving<br />

arts scene, the charming villages of Charlevoix<br />

and the grand Saguenay Fjord. In the far<br />

north, expedition cruising departs from<br />

Kuujjuaq into the Arctic Circle to see polar<br />

bears, narwhal and Inuit culture while the<br />

Gulf of St. Lawrence is the seasonal home to<br />

blue, fin, humpback and beluga whales.<br />

Québec offers perhaps the most complete mix<br />

of culture, scenery and wildlife of any of<br />

Canada’s provinces.<br />

56


Quaqtaq<br />

Akpatok<br />

Island<br />

Hudson<br />

Bay<br />

Kuujjuaq<br />

Kangiqsualujjuaq<br />

James<br />

Bay<br />

LABRADOR<br />

Place Jacques-Cartier, Montréal<br />

Montréal<br />

The world’s second largest French-speaking city,<br />

Montréal is a dynamic metropolis that offers an<br />

eclectic range of experiences and attractions. In<br />

the charming cobbled streets of old Montréal<br />

you will find treasures such as the Basilica of<br />

Notre-Dame, the Place Jacques-Cartier and the<br />

Vieux Port. The rue Sherbrooke, to the south of<br />

the plateau of Mont Royal, is home to exclusive<br />

shops, art galleries and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.<br />

Montréalers are renowned for their joie de vivre:<br />

this is Canada’s party capital, which plays host<br />

to several world-renowned summer festivals.<br />

In addition, there is a vast array of fabulous<br />

restaurants, bistros and pavement cafés offering<br />

every type of cuisine, with delicious smoked meats<br />

the local speciality. Amongst the many sights the<br />

Jardin Botanique rivals England’s Kew Gardens<br />

and other attractions include the Olympic Park,<br />

Biodôme and Biosphère. Explore the city on<br />

Bâteau Mouche cruises on the St. Lawrence<br />

River or discover the underground city, packed<br />

with boutiques, shops and restaurants.<br />

HOTEL NELLIGAN, MONTRÉAL<br />

Situated in rue St. Paul in the heart of old<br />

Montréal, the Nelligan is a delightful boutique<br />

hotel. There are 63 spacious rooms with exposed<br />

brick and stone walls and lots of natural wood.<br />

Each room is beautifully furnished with plantation<br />

blinds and contemporary fabrics. Amenities<br />

include a fitness centre, library, a roof-top terrace<br />

and Verses restaurant for the finest French<br />

cuisine. Breakfast is served in the garden atrium<br />

which also doubles, each afternoon, as a tearoom.<br />

Hotel Nelligan<br />

ONTARIO<br />

Hotel le St. James<br />

Laurentides<br />

Wildlife Reserve<br />

Mastigouche<br />

Wildlife<br />

Reserve<br />

Mont Tremblant<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Montréal<br />

Ottawa<br />

Lac<br />

St-Jean<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

Saguenay<br />

Fjord<br />

Charlevoix<br />

QUÉBEC<br />

Havre-St-Pierre<br />

Rimouski<br />

Tadoussac<br />

La Malbaie<br />

Charny<br />

Easter n<br />

T ownships<br />

North<br />

Hatley<br />

HOTEL LE ST. JAMES, MONTRÉAL<br />

Grand and opulent, this venerable hotel is one<br />

of the most prestigious addresses in old Montréal.<br />

All 23 rooms and 38 suites meticulously<br />

preserve their historic character but have been<br />

transformed by plush interior design and cutting<br />

edge technology to offer unashamed luxury.<br />

The magnificent library is the perfect place for an<br />

aperitif before dinner whilst XO, the grand salon,<br />

serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. This is also a<br />

delightful venue for afternoon tea with, on<br />

Sundays, a harpist to set a refined tone. With a<br />

full-service spa and fitness centre, the St. James is<br />

Montréal’s most refined and elegant choice.<br />

Gaspé<br />

Peninsula<br />

Gaspé<br />

Anticosti<br />

Island<br />

^<br />

Iles de la<br />

Madeleine<br />

0 140 miles<br />

0 225 kilometres<br />

Hostellerie Pierre du Calvet<br />

Gulf of St<br />

Lawrence<br />

HOSTELLERIE PIERRE DU CALVET,<br />

MONTRÉAL<br />

Built in 1725, this captivating hotel is one of the<br />

oldest surviving buildings in Montréal, furnished<br />

with sumptuous antiques in 17th century style.<br />

There are just nine rooms and suites, each<br />

featuring exposed stone walls, wood panelling,<br />

beams, and either a gas or wood-burning<br />

fireplace. Most have four-poster beds, whilst all<br />

have a private bathroom and air-conditioning.<br />

There is a delightful terrace at the back and a<br />

conservatory with exotic caged birds, including a<br />

parrot that talks. The hotel has two restaurants,<br />

Les Filles du Roy and Pierre du Calvet, and both<br />

are highly recommended.<br />

Québec: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

57


58<br />

Knowlton in the Eastern Townships<br />

Laurentian Mountains<br />

The gentle, unhurried panoramas of the Laurentian<br />

Mountains unfold to the north of Montréal, a vast<br />

landscape of majestic slopes clad in conifers and<br />

sprinkled with lakes and picturesque villages.<br />

Despite the recent blossoming of ski resorts such<br />

as Mont St. Sauveur and Mont Tremblant the<br />

land has remained generally untouched. The<br />

magnificent scenery makes a perfect backdrop<br />

for many outdoor pursuits, including hiking, fishing,<br />

kayaking and swimming. For cyclists, the 200<br />

kilometre-long P’tit Train du Nord Linear Park<br />

is the perfect trail along the route of a former<br />

railway line. We have discovered some wonderful<br />

places to stay that make great bases from which<br />

to explore this sublime landscape.<br />

The Laurentian Mountains<br />

L’Eau à la Bouche<br />

L’EAU À LA BOUCHE,<br />

SAINTE ADÈLE<br />

Nestled amidst the pine and maple-strewn<br />

slopes of the Laurentian Mountains, this is a<br />

gastronomic gem. The 25 tastefully decorated<br />

rooms combine luxury and a sense of space with<br />

views of the mountains or the lush Laurentian<br />

forest. A member of Relais & Châteaux, L’Eau<br />

à la Bouche has for many years been winning<br />

worldwide awards for its cuisine. The owners,<br />

Anne Desjardins and Pierre Audette, share a<br />

passion for food and a pride in regional produce<br />

which even shows in the casual café-lounge.<br />

The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool<br />

and a full-service spa.<br />

LA BELLE AU BOIS DORMANT,<br />

NEAR MONT-TREMBLANT<br />

La Belle au Bois Dormant is gloriously set in a<br />

forest of maple and spruce overlooking Lac<br />

Mercier and Mont Johannsen. Though just a ten<br />

minute drive from Mont Tremblant Resort this<br />

log-built lodge offers ultimate peace and seclusion.<br />

The interior is decorated with antique furniture<br />

that reflects the French heritage of your charming<br />

hosts, Isabelle and Didier. There are just five guest<br />

rooms, each with exposed timber walls and<br />

floors. Whilst enjoying a delicious breakfast in this<br />

peaceful haven you can often see deer, racoons<br />

or black squirrels trying to reach the bird feeders.<br />

Belle au Bois Dormant


Quintessential Québec<br />

The essence and joie de vivre that permeates life<br />

in Québec will be evident as you explore this<br />

enormous and varied province. This trip captures<br />

all that is best in the historic cities, the almost<br />

endless wilderness regions and pastoral villages,<br />

all spiced with the delicious food and friendly<br />

hospitality encountered en route.<br />

The Abbaye St. Benoit, Eastern Townships<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Having collected your hire car<br />

depart Montréal, driving southeast to<br />

North Hatley near the USA border.<br />

A day to explore the antique and<br />

craft shops in the villages or visit<br />

some of the grand old mansions that<br />

dot the rolling parkland landscape.<br />

Departing the Eastern Townships,<br />

your route takes you north to the<br />

Mastigouche Wildlife Reserve for a<br />

two night stay.<br />

Spend a day relaxing in this<br />

spectacular wilderness setting,<br />

perhaps try some of the water<br />

sports on the lake or search for<br />

wildlife in the expansive forest.<br />

Drive along the edge of the St.<br />

Lawrence River to Québec City.<br />

Manoir Hovey<br />

Eastern Townships<br />

The Eastern Townships, or les Cantons de l’Est,<br />

lie on Québec’s southern border with Vermont<br />

and New Hampshire and were settled by United<br />

Empire Loyalists who were hounded out of the<br />

United States after the American Revolution.<br />

Their loyalty to the crown was rewarded by the<br />

British with freehold land grants which led to<br />

many towns being given firmly English names.<br />

Today most residents are francophone although<br />

the towns and villages around Knowlton and<br />

North Hatley remain staunchly tied to their<br />

British roots. This is a region of prosperous farms,<br />

splendid old mansions, antique and craft shops<br />

and pretty lake-studded hills.<br />

MANOIR HOVEY, NORTH HATLEY<br />

Arriving at Manoir Hovey you will be taken aback<br />

by the beauty of it all: the house, the gardens and<br />

the glorious view of Lake Massawippi. Hovey is<br />

the archetypal country house hotel, grand but<br />

with touches of quaintness. The genteel<br />

hospitality is reminiscent of a bygone age, with<br />

exceptional service and an award-winning<br />

restaurant with excellent cuisine. There is a lovely<br />

old library and the 40 guest rooms are all<br />

individually appointed and most have lake views.<br />

Outside the delightfully pretty gardens are the<br />

perfect place to sip a glass of wine as the sun<br />

goes down over the lake.<br />

Hotel Sacacomie<br />

Mastigouche<br />

Wildlife Reserve<br />

Mastigouche Wildlife Reserve is an enchanting<br />

region of winding rivers and myriad lakes, set<br />

amongst the mountains between Montréal and<br />

Québec. The reserve was established in 1971 to<br />

increase public access to the region but initially<br />

was operated solely for hunting and fishing. Now<br />

it provides an ideal habitat for a wide variety of<br />

animals and birds including moose, black bears,<br />

beavers and loons. The reserve can be visited on<br />

day trips or by staying in one of the superbly<br />

located log cabins.<br />

HOTEL SACACOMIE,<br />

MASTIGOUCHE WILDLIFE RESERVE<br />

Known also as ‘the house on the lake’, Hotel<br />

Sacacomie lies in the midst of a forest bordering<br />

the Mastigouche Wildlife Reserve, overlooking a<br />

lake whose shores extend for more than 40<br />

kilometres. In this enchanting site the log-built<br />

hotel blends harmoniously with the scenery, with<br />

109 comfortable guest rooms and suites. The<br />

hotel has a restaurant, health spa and its own<br />

private beach with canoes and kayaks. Other<br />

activities available include hiking, trout fishing,<br />

horse riding, bear and beaver observation tours<br />

and float-plane flights over the wilderness.<br />

In winter this is a superb and romantic place for<br />

tobogganing, snow-mobiling and dog-sledding.<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

The day is yours to explore the<br />

charming cobbled streets of old<br />

Québec and to savour some of the<br />

excellent bistros and restaurants.<br />

Your tour ends this morning after<br />

dropping off your hire car in Québec.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

You may wish to extend this tour to include a stay<br />

in Ottawa at the beginning or to include a visit to<br />

the delightful Charlevoix region at the end. Please<br />

see page 61 for further information about this region.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Canoeing in the Laurentian Mountains<br />

Québec: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

59


60<br />

Québec City and the St Lawrence River<br />

Québec City<br />

Unique in North America, Québec is the<br />

continent’s only walled city. Built by the French<br />

during the 17th century, Québec was the backdrop<br />

for the Anglo-French wars that culminated in<br />

General Wolfe’s victory in 1759 and the expulsion<br />

of the French from Canada. Now a UNESCO<br />

World Heritage Site, the narrow cobbled streets<br />

wind steeply between Basse-Ville and Haute-Ville,<br />

which is crowned by the magnificent Château<br />

Frontenac. The city is a treasure trove of historic<br />

sites, including the Vieux Port, Battlefields Park,<br />

the Citadelle, Artillery Park and the Place Royale.<br />

The Rue du Trésor is famous for its artists, whilst<br />

the Terrasse Dufferin affords magnificent river<br />

views. Military history comes alive on the Plains of<br />

Abraham while Québec’s ecclesiastical heritage is<br />

evident in its beautiful churches. Filled with<br />

romantic restaurants and unusual boutiques, this is<br />

a city to explore through river cruises, horse-drawn<br />

carriage rides and walking tours. These leisurely<br />

guided walks are particularly good and will help<br />

you get your bearings in Canada’s Gallic heartland.<br />

Rural Charlevoix<br />

LE CLOS ST. LOUIS, QUÉBEC<br />

Occupying two early Victorian homes, this<br />

welcoming bed and breakfast property is just<br />

steps away from the Château Frontenac and<br />

many of the city’s leading attractions in Haute<br />

Ville. The 18 individually decorated rooms are<br />

charmingly furnished with period antiques; some<br />

have exposed stone walls and beams and all have<br />

en suite bathrooms with spa bath. The rooms<br />

are set over four floors and access is by the<br />

magnificent, if steep, original staircases. A delicious<br />

continental breakfast is included.<br />

AUBERGE SAINT ANTOINE, QUÉBEC<br />

The Auberge Saint Antoine is in the heart of the old<br />

port, facing the mighty St. Lawrence River and just a<br />

few steps away from the ramparts, the museums and<br />

the bustling streets of Le Petit Champlain. Beautifully<br />

restored, it retains the charm of its past with all the<br />

luxuries of contemporary living, displaying historic<br />

artefacts recovered from the earth beneath the inn<br />

creating a vivid reminder of the city’s early history.<br />

There are 94 rooms and suites, each with fine linens,<br />

goose-down duvets and pillows, large opening<br />

windows, and luxurious bathrooms. A member of<br />

Relais & Châteaux, the auberge is proud of its<br />

widely-acclaimed restaurant, Panache. This magnificent<br />

stone-walled and timber roofed room has wonderful<br />

river views and serves French-Canadian food with a<br />

twist. Lighter fare is available from the Café Artefact,<br />

adjacent to the lobby.<br />

The Huron People<br />

of Wendake<br />

Located on the Huron reservation at Wendake<br />

near Québec City, this reconstructed settlement<br />

is a tasteful re-creation of a traditional Huron<br />

village, with staff in traditional dress giving an<br />

insight into the way of life of the Huron and other<br />

First Nations of Québec. A guide will lead you<br />

around the site, visiting the traditional long house,<br />

the smokehouse and drying tents, all the while<br />

explaining the way of life and social organisation<br />

that the first Europeans would have encountered.<br />

Lunch is traditional fare of buffalo, caribou or<br />

salmon and is followed by a performance of<br />

storytelling and folkloric dancing that follows<br />

the rhythm of the tam-tam drum.<br />

Auberge Saint Antoine


Enchanting Charlevoix<br />

The Charlevoix region of Québec has some of<br />

the province’s most dramatic scenery and prettiest<br />

villages, along with a reputation for offering many<br />

superb restaurants. A few days devoted to<br />

exploring this part of the province will surely be<br />

a highlight of your holiday.<br />

A Charlevoix artist<br />

The Auberge des 3 Canards<br />

Day 1<br />

Collect your hire car in Québec<br />

City and follow the ever broadening<br />

St. Lawrence River to La Malbaie.<br />

La Malbaie is an historic village of<br />

artists’ galleries and crafts shops set<br />

high on cliffs overlooking the river.<br />

Spend a day discovering this<br />

delightful area.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> north to Tadoussac at the<br />

confluence of the St. Lawrence and<br />

Saguenay rivers to enjoy a whale<br />

watching trip before returning to<br />

La Malbaie.<br />

Day 4<br />

Drive to La Baie on the southern<br />

bank of the Saguenay Fjord, stopping<br />

en route to admire the stunning<br />

views at Rivière Eternité.<br />

Day 5<br />

Today enjoy a boat cruise on the<br />

Saguenay Fjord, admiring the huge<br />

cliffs and looking out for whales.<br />

A cabin in Charlevoix<br />

Charlevoix and<br />

Saguenay - Lac St. Jean<br />

From the eastern edge of Québec City the<br />

Charlevoix region stretches two hundred<br />

kilometres along the north shore of the St.<br />

Lawrence River to Tadoussac at the mouth of the<br />

Saguenay Fjord. At its heart is a vast meteorite<br />

crater, 50 kilometres across and draped in boreal<br />

forest, now listed as a UNESCO World<br />

Biosphere Reserve. Gentle valleys and tall cliffs<br />

protect impossibly pretty villages where arts and<br />

crafts thrive in a beautiful setting, along with a<br />

range of wonderful restaurants. Whale watching<br />

trips head out from Tadoussac between June and<br />

October, with the rare opportunity of sighting the<br />

mighty blue whale. The Saguenay Fjord is one of<br />

the world’s longest inlets and stretches for over<br />

100 kilometres inland towards Lac St. Jean,<br />

hemmed in, for much of its length, by cliffs 400<br />

metres high. The lower half of the fjord is a<br />

marine reserve and the summer home to a<br />

colony of 1,000 beluga whales. Lac St. Jean is a<br />

large lake in a sleepy region of dairy farms,<br />

charming villages and sandy beaches. To the south<br />

towards Québec the Laurentides Wildlife Reserve<br />

is a maze of mountains and valleys, riven by<br />

countless lakes and rivers.<br />

Cruising on the Saguenay Fjord<br />

AUBERGE DES 3 CANARDS,<br />

LA MALBAIE<br />

This landmark property on the banks of the<br />

St. Lawrence River evokes a sense of warmth<br />

and well-being. Each of the 49 guest bedrooms<br />

have been designed for comfort: all have views<br />

of the river and most have private balconies.<br />

Many activities are available nearby including<br />

whale watching, sea-kayaking, horse riding and<br />

golf. The auberge has a heated outdoor<br />

swimming pool, a croquet lawn, tennis courts<br />

and extensive gardens, but it is the cuisine that<br />

has made the inn famous and advance dinner<br />

reservations are highly recommended.<br />

AUBERGE DES 21, LA BAIE<br />

On the shores of the grand Saguenay Fjord,<br />

Auberge des 21 is perfectly placed to explore<br />

the area by land or sea with glorious sunrise<br />

views across the water. Named after the original<br />

21 settlers who founded the town of La Baie in<br />

1838 this boutique hotel has a friendly, intimate<br />

atmosphere. Owner, manager and chef, Marcel<br />

Bouchard is innovative and charismatic, with his<br />

kitchen bringing gourmet diners flocking from<br />

Québec City. The 30 guest rooms have views of<br />

the fjord or the swimming pool and some are<br />

made that little bit cosier with their own fireplace.<br />

Day 6<br />

Return to Québec by travelling<br />

through the Laurentides Wildlife<br />

Reserve, watching out for moose<br />

and bears. Drop off your hire car<br />

upon arrival at the end of your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Pastoral life in Charlevoix<br />

Québec: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

61


Fishing boats at the Rock of Percé<br />

The Gaspé Peninsula<br />

This peninsula stretches northeast of Québec into<br />

the Gulf of St. Lawrence and is made up of some<br />

of the province’s wildest and most attractive<br />

scenery. Popularly known as the Gaspésie, it is<br />

geologically the northernmost tip of the grand<br />

Appalachian Mountains, which come to a<br />

dramatic end at the Rocher Percé, otherwise<br />

known as Percé Rock. Dense pine forests cover a<br />

varied terrain that reaches up to the 1,300 metre<br />

peaks of the Chic-Chocs mountains: excellent<br />

for walking. On the eastern tip of the peninsula<br />

Bonaventure Island is home to North America’s<br />

largest gannet colony and the southern coast is<br />

dotted with 18th century fishing villages,<br />

beautiful gardens and fruit farms. A good road<br />

circles the peninsula and allows easy access to<br />

all the highlights.<br />

LA SOLAILLERIE,<br />

SAINT ANDRÉ DE KAMOURASKA<br />

Auberge La Solaillerie is beautifully set in the<br />

village of Saint André, just a stone’s throw from<br />

the cliffs of Kamouraska. In this enchanting setting<br />

guest rooms and public areas are beautifully<br />

furnished with antiques and works of art, each<br />

space a haven of peace soothed by the sound of<br />

waves from the river below. Despite this beauty it<br />

is the award-winning cuisine and service that has<br />

earned the auberge its pre-eminent reputation.<br />

CHIC-CHOCS MOUNTAIN LODGE,<br />

CHIC-CHOCS MOUNTAINS<br />

Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge offers a friendly<br />

welcome in the heart of an untamed natural<br />

setting. The lodge accommodates 36 guests in<br />

comfortable rooms whilst common areas such as<br />

the dining room and lounge invite exchanges and<br />

discussions with your fellow guests. The balconies<br />

and large windows are filled with superb views of<br />

the surrounding mountain peaks, Chute Hélène<br />

waterfall, and the forest. The lodge also has a<br />

sauna, outdoor spa bath and a shop.<br />

The Auberge du Mange Grenouille<br />

AUBERGE DU MANGE<br />

GRENOUILLE, LE BIC<br />

Magnificently positioned in the heart of one of<br />

Québec’s prettiest villages, this former general store<br />

has been creatively transformed into a truly delightful<br />

auberge. Set amidst lovely gardens, the auberge<br />

overlooks the islands in the Parc du Bic. There are<br />

just 22 rooms and each has been individually<br />

designed to offer an exquisite ambience of intimacy<br />

and charm. The restaurant here is renowned for<br />

being one of the best in the Lower St. Lawrence<br />

region, offering attentive service and an extensive<br />

menu. A delicious breakfast is included daily.<br />

62<br />

Chic-Chocs Mountain Lodge


Gaspésie<br />

The Gaspé Peninsula is a ribbon of forested<br />

mountain slopes encircled by one of North<br />

America’s most magnificent coastal drives.<br />

Stunning national parks are interspersed with<br />

bewitchingly beautiful fishing villages whilst the<br />

Rock of Percé and the île Bonaventure are<br />

lauded landscapes jutting into the Atlantic Ocean.<br />

Gaspésie is a region to escape to, a place where<br />

the pace of life is slower and where you can<br />

discover the adventurer in you.<br />

A colourful fishing village<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Collect your hire car in Québec<br />

City and drive along the southern<br />

shore of the St. Lawrence River<br />

to the little village of St. André<br />

de Kamouraska.<br />

Continue your journey along the<br />

ever widening St. Lawrence to the<br />

small village of Le Bic where there is<br />

time to see the magnificent Jardins<br />

de Métis or the Parc du Bic.<br />

Day 3<br />

Drive into the heart of Gaspésie<br />

for a three night stay in the<br />

Chic-Chocs Mountains.<br />

Days 4 - 5<br />

Spend two days in Gaspésie’s<br />

magnificent Chic-Chocs Mountains.<br />

The hiking and wildlife viewing here<br />

are superb.<br />

Local fisherman<br />

Gîte des Tilleuls<br />

Day 6<br />

The drive today takes you along the<br />

northern coast of the peninsula to<br />

the small town of Gaspé for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

GASPÉ<br />

MAISON WILLIAM WAKEHAM,<br />

Built around 1860, and situated in the very heart<br />

of the town of Gaspé, Maison William Wakeham<br />

is one of the town’s principal buildings and is the<br />

only one constructed of cut stone. Each of the<br />

four rooms is furnished with period antiques that<br />

emphasise the building’s history and heritage. In<br />

addition, the property has an excellent restaurant<br />

where you can expect personal, friendly service.<br />

Outside, the terrace has lovely views of the<br />

mouth of the York River and Gaspé Bay and is<br />

the perfect place to relax with a glass of wine.<br />

GÎTE DES TILLEULS, CAUSAPSCAL<br />

The Gîte des Tilleuls is also known as the Linden<br />

Tree B&B. Whichever name you use it occupies an<br />

enviable position in the heart of Causapscal village,<br />

between the north and south coast and charms<br />

guests with its calm and cosy ambience. Each of<br />

the five rooms has its own individual personality,<br />

reflecting the charm of the building’s past whilst at<br />

the same time offering all the amenities of modern<br />

living. The gîte is owned and run by Claude and<br />

Lise Rivard and their daughter Jessica, well-known<br />

figures in the local community, and you can be sure<br />

of a warm and friendly welcome.<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

The day is yours to see the highlights<br />

of Gaspésie, the nearby Rock of<br />

Percé, the île Bonaventure and<br />

Forillon National Park.<br />

Drive along the southern shore of<br />

the peninsula through Port Daniel<br />

to Carleton for your overnight stay.<br />

Today you head inland for an easy<br />

drive through small farming villages<br />

to Causapscal.<br />

Your drive today takes you back<br />

along the southern shore of the<br />

St. Lawrence River for a further<br />

stay at St. André de Kamouraska.<br />

Day 11<br />

Drive back to Québec City to<br />

return your hire car at the end<br />

of your tour.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

This lovely self-drive tour can easily be combined<br />

with the delights of Charlevoix and the Saguenay<br />

Fjord. Please see page 61 for more information.<br />

Alternatively you may wish to extend this tour by<br />

including a stay in a lighthouse on a tiny island in<br />

the middle of the St. Lawrence River – please ask<br />

one of our Canada specialists for further details.<br />

Québec: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Gaspésie Peninsula<br />

Colourful buildings<br />

63


64<br />

Charming sea views<br />

Îles de la Madeleine<br />

These bewitchingly idyllic islands were ‘rediscovered’<br />

in the 1960s by the travel-minded people of<br />

francophone Québec and have now been settled<br />

by an intriguing mix of artists and watersports<br />

enthusiasts, giving a paradoxically vibrant vibe for<br />

visitors in the summer. Iron-rich red cliffs and quaint<br />

fishing villages painted charmingly in mauves, yellows<br />

and reds give the place an ethereal charm, whilst<br />

magnificent golden sandy beaches stretch as far as the<br />

eye can see and and are great for beach-combing.<br />

Waters here are surprisingly warm and people come<br />

from far afield to wind-surf, kite-board and kayak.<br />

Gloriously isolated, being spread over 100 kilometres<br />

in the middle of the huge Gulf of St Lawrence, the<br />

heart of the community is a set of five islands, 60<br />

kilometres in length, linked by sand spits and a road.<br />

Each island has its own distinct culture, which is<br />

surprisingly diverse for such a relatively small<br />

archipelago. In the north there are Anglophone<br />

communities who speak very little French and there is<br />

almost an inter-island rivalry where locals will assure<br />

you that their island is much nicer than the next.<br />

The islanders are extremely friendly and hospitable<br />

and are only too happy to share their little bit of<br />

paradise with visitors. They have some wonderful<br />

stories to tell and in the small bars that dot the islands<br />

they will often burst into song, quite spontaneously,<br />

with old Acadian songs illuminating their rich heritage.<br />

Food here is heavily influenced by French cuisine,<br />

and of course, seafood – fruits de la mer – features<br />

on every menu. The start of the lobster season in<br />

June is a major event in the islands when it’s possible<br />

for visitors to see the fishermen return to the docks<br />

with their catch and perhaps pick up dinner from the<br />

quayside. The archipelago is easily explored by car<br />

but many of the locals prefer to cycle. It is possible<br />

to reach the islands by air but perhaps the most<br />

charming way is to arrive at Cap aux Meules by<br />

ferry from Prince Edward Island, before continuing<br />

by boat to Québec’s Gaspésie Peninsula or<br />

Québec City itself.<br />

Harp Seal Viewing<br />

In late February and early March tens of thousands<br />

of harp seals congregate near the Îles de la<br />

Madeleine to whelp on the ice floes surrounding<br />

the archipelago. Day trips by helicopter from the<br />

islands provide a superb opportunity to observe<br />

Artists on the islands<br />

Domaine du Vieux Couvent<br />

the baby seals, called whitecoats. Seeing the<br />

immensity of the ice-field scattered with seal pups<br />

is an enthralling experience for winter visitors.<br />

DOMAINE DU VIEUX COUVENT,<br />

ÎLES DE LA MADELEINE<br />

A former convent built between 1914 and 1916,<br />

the Domaine du Vieux Couvent enjoys a<br />

magnificent seaside setting. The property was<br />

refurbished in 2006 to provide ten unique and<br />

stylish rooms, each named after an aspect of the<br />

area’s history, folklore and poetry. From the<br />

bathrobes to the décor, every item has been<br />

carefully selected. Le Réfectoire is a bistro style<br />

restaurant offering the best of the islands’ produce<br />

including mussels, lobster, herring, mackerel, clams,<br />

bouillabaisse, veal, home-bred boars, wild fruit and<br />

berries, as well as local cheeses. This is the perfect<br />

base from which to take boat trips, cycle around<br />

the islands or take walks along the beach.


Island Idyll<br />

This charming itinerary combines Gaspésie with<br />

a stay on the idyllic Îles de la Madeleine and the<br />

delights of Prince Edward Island. More than linking<br />

islands, this itinerary combines the Gallic culture<br />

of Québec with the British influence of Prince<br />

Edward Island. Both are off the beaten track<br />

destinations with charms all of their own.<br />

White-tailed deer<br />

Catch of the day<br />

Day 1<br />

Having collected your hire car drive<br />

out of Québec City to the village of<br />

La Malbaie in Charlevoix.<br />

Today, take the ferry from St. Siméon<br />

to Rivière du Loup on the south bank<br />

of the St. Lawrence River and then<br />

continue your drive to Le Bic.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Your drive today takes you along<br />

the enchanting north shore of<br />

Gaspésie until you head inland to<br />

Gaspésie Conservation Park for your<br />

overnight stay.<br />

Day 4<br />

Drive to Gaspé at the head of the<br />

peninsula for a two night stay.<br />

Day 5<br />

The day is yours to discover the<br />

area - don’t miss the Rock of Percé<br />

and the Île Bonaventure.<br />

Day 6<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> south to Chandler where you<br />

board the evening ferry service to<br />

the Îles de la Madeleine.<br />

Anticosti shipwreck<br />

Anticosti Island<br />

Located in the mouth of the St. Lawrence<br />

River, Anticosti Island is over 200 kilometres<br />

long and 50 wide. Its deep forests, high cliffs,<br />

dramatic canyons, caves and waterfalls have only<br />

recently come to the attention of a few wildlife<br />

enthusiasts. Originally used as hunting grounds for<br />

the indigenous peoples of mainland Québec, it<br />

became the private shooting reserve of Henri<br />

Ménier, a famous French chocolate maker whose<br />

business empire was to grow into Nestlé.<br />

Ironically, this protected the island from any<br />

form of development other than the small<br />

village of Port Ménier and there are now great<br />

areas of wildlife reserves where animals, including<br />

vast herds of white-tailed deer, have little fear<br />

of man. Access is via plane from the Gaspésie<br />

Peninsula, though the lack of infrastructure<br />

necessitates the assistance of a guide and<br />

transport to appreciate the highlights of Vauréal<br />

Falls and the abundant wildlife.<br />

Day 7<br />

Days8-9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Arrive in Cap aux Meules for a three<br />

night stay in the Îles de la Madeleine.<br />

Spend two full days exploring these<br />

bewitching islands or relaxing on the<br />

miles of sandy beaches.<br />

Board the ferry from Cap aux<br />

Meules to Souris on Prince Edward<br />

Island, a pleasant five hour crossing.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> to Charlottetown for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Enjoy a full final day exploring<br />

PEI’s charming small capital city<br />

of Charlottetown.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

Having arrived in the Maritime Provinces, the<br />

perfect extension is to the nearby province of<br />

Nova Scotia, alternatively you may wish to travel<br />

through New Brunswick visiting the Acadian<br />

region around Caraquet before returning to<br />

Québec City.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Québec: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Vauréal Canyon<br />

Gannets<br />

65


The Maritime Provinces<br />

The Maritime Provinces are where<br />

Canada first met the wider world.<br />

The Vikings are known to have visited in<br />

the 8th century; British contact began in the<br />

late 15th century with the red-faced Beothuk<br />

tribes, while French Acadian settlers<br />

arrived in 1604. Later, the 1867 Act of<br />

Confederation, uniting several provinces as<br />

the Dominion of Canada, was signed in<br />

Prince Edward Island. The region is awash<br />

with fascinating sites of historical significance.<br />

It is also magnificently diverse in its scenery,<br />

flora and fauna. In the fjords of Gros Morne<br />

National Park, Newfoundland has perhaps<br />

some of the most dramatic scenery east of the<br />

Rockies, made even more striking by the<br />

huge icebergs that drift down the east coast<br />

on the Labrador Current. New Brunswick is<br />

home to the idyllic pastoral lands of Acadia,<br />

world-beating salmon fishing on the<br />

Mirimichi River and the ruggedly beautiful<br />

Bay of Fundy. Sleepy Prince Edward Island<br />

inspired ‘Anne of Green Gables’ and even<br />

now is a land of green fields, white beaches<br />

and rich red soils. Nova Scotia, with its<br />

brightly coloured fishing villages, stacked<br />

lobster pots and strong maritime history still<br />

embodies the romance of the sea more than<br />

any other province.<br />

66


Nova Scotia<br />

Nova Scotia is a land of lobsters and<br />

lighthouses: maritime influences dominate this<br />

pretty, historic peninsula. On the northern tip<br />

of the province is Cape Breton Island and the<br />

Cabot Trail, one of North America’s most<br />

dramatically beautiful coastal roads, that<br />

passes through Acadian settlements where<br />

Celtic folk music still forms a living link with<br />

the Europe of old. Cape Breton has been called<br />

the most scenic island in the world and was<br />

also famously chosen by Marconi for his first<br />

trans-Atlantic broadcast. Highlights include<br />

the 18th century French fortress at<br />

Louisbourg, Kejimkujik National Park, the<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site at Lunenburg<br />

and the much-photographed Peggy’s Cove.<br />

Digby<br />

Bay of Fundy<br />

Kejimkujik<br />

National Park<br />

Annapolis<br />

Royal<br />

Tatamagouche<br />

Amherst<br />

Minas<br />

Basin<br />

Wolfville<br />

Lunenburg<br />

Truro<br />

NOVA SCOTIA<br />

HALIFAX<br />

Pictou<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Port<br />

Hawkesbury<br />

Baddeck<br />

Liscomb Mills<br />

Cape<br />

Breton<br />

Island<br />

Bras<br />

d’Or<br />

Lake<br />

Charlos Cove<br />

0 37 miles<br />

0 60 kilometres<br />

Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park<br />

Ingonish<br />

Sydney Mines<br />

Louisbourg<br />

Halifax<br />

The capital of Nova Scotia, Halifax is the largest<br />

city in the Atlantic provinces and set on the<br />

world’s second-largest natural harbour: even<br />

now it is steeped in sea-faring history and naval<br />

tradition. The compact city centre, dominated by<br />

the Citadel and its adjacent clock tower, is easy<br />

to navigate on foot. Along the waterfront you’ll<br />

find plenty of excellent seafood restaurants and<br />

several micro-breweries as well as the Historic<br />

Properties, a collection of boutique shops in<br />

restored maritime warehouses. The harbour is<br />

always busy with ferries that ply across to<br />

Dartmouth on the other side, and during the<br />

summer season the schooner Bluenose II, a<br />

symbol of the province, is often moored here.<br />

In 1912 the Titanic sank to the east of here and<br />

memorabilia from the wreck is on display at the<br />

city’s superb Maritime Museum of the Atlantic,<br />

along with a collection of brightly-coloured ships’<br />

figureheads. Many local cemeteries bear testimony<br />

to the disaster but these days Halifax is very<br />

much a living society, with plenty of live music<br />

bars and a thriving theatre scene.<br />

Halifax Historic Properties<br />

Yarmouth<br />

Argyle Street, Halifax<br />

HALLIBURTON HOUSE,<br />

HALIFAX<br />

The Halliburton, located in downtown Halifax,<br />

consists of a trio of heritage town houses that<br />

have been joined to provide 29 individually<br />

appointed guest rooms. Each room is unique<br />

in size, layout and décor - some have wood<br />

burning fireplaces whilst others have a private<br />

balcony overlooking the garden courtyard. A<br />

complimentary buffet breakfast is included. The<br />

shops, restaurants and sights of Halifax are just<br />

a short walk away.<br />

TALL SHIP SILVA<br />

A traditional sailing ship built in 1939, Tall Ship<br />

Silva provides a chance to experience this<br />

maritime city from the sea. From the deck you<br />

can take in the glorious views of the seafront,<br />

with miles of shoreline guarded by Georges Island<br />

and its graceful lighthouse, while watching out for<br />

whales, harbour seals and seabirds. You can also<br />

take the opportunity to become part of the crew:<br />

taking the helm, learning navigation and helping<br />

raise and furl the sails. Carrying up to 150<br />

passengers, the ship has been completely<br />

re-furbished to offer a licensed bar and plenty<br />

of indoor and outdoor seating.<br />

Halifax harbour sailing<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

67


Lunenburg waterfront<br />

Lunenburg<br />

Lunenburg is one of Nova Scotia’s most historic<br />

towns, captivating visitors with its colourful<br />

waterfront, narrow streets and old wooden<br />

buildings. This pretty town, lying on a narrow<br />

peninsula, was established by the British in 1753<br />

as their first and only colonial settlement in Nova<br />

Scotia outside Halifax. The early settlers, from<br />

various parts of Europe, created a vibrant and<br />

stable economy built on farming, fishing, ship<br />

building and ocean-based commerce. Even now<br />

Lunenburg combines a healthy economy with a<br />

rich historical legacy, manifesting itself in brightlypainted<br />

wooden buildings that clamber up from<br />

the main harbour, ringed by an eclectic mix of<br />

old wooden churches and mansions. Today the<br />

town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and its<br />

principal attraction is the Fisheries Museum of<br />

the Atlantic which houses a great aquarium, the<br />

record-breaking schooner Bluenose, and Theresa<br />

E. Connor, the last salt-bank schooner to fish<br />

from Lunenburg. Visitors can relive past glories<br />

by sailing on Bluenose II, a replica of the original<br />

vessel. There are some excellent craft shops,<br />

art galleries and restaurants here: be sure to try<br />

the two local specialities, Solomon Grundy –<br />

marinated herrings with sour cream – and<br />

Lunenburg Sausage.<br />

LUNENBURG ARMS HOTEL AND SPA<br />

The Lunenburg Arms Hotel and Spa is a boutique<br />

hotel with just 24 guest rooms located in the<br />

historic heart of the old town of Lunenburg.<br />

The property is surrounded by art shops and<br />

restaurants and is just a stone’s throw from the<br />

superb Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic. Guest<br />

rooms are spacious, with wide wooden<br />

floorboards, king or queen beds, a sofa, armchairs<br />

and many have harbour views. There is a high<br />

quality spa, a fine dining restaurant and a popular<br />

bar with outside seating.<br />

Lunenburg Arms Hotel<br />

Buoys hanging from a lobster pot<br />

Kejimkujik National Park<br />

A visit to this magnificent tract of rolling<br />

wilderness is a superb way to experience the<br />

peace and natural beauty of southern Nova<br />

Scotia. Lush forests shade rivers and lakes,<br />

forming a diverse habitat for porcupines,<br />

white-tailed deer, turtles and beavers. The park<br />

has lovely walking trails and canoe routes and in<br />

the southeast coastal part you can find the rare<br />

piping plover amongst tidal flats, lagoons and<br />

wild headlands.<br />

68


Lighthouses and<br />

Lobsters Trail<br />

The close proximity of the Maritime Provinces<br />

allows visitors to dip into the diversity that makes<br />

each region so unique. This lovely itinerary<br />

enables you to visit the highlights of Canada’s<br />

spell-binding Atlantic sea-board.<br />

Kejimkujik National Park<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Arrive in Halifax for a two night stay.<br />

The day is yours to explore this<br />

delightful city for yourself.<br />

Drive south along the rugged<br />

Atlantic coast to Lunenburg.<br />

Spend a full day exploring this<br />

charming old fishing port.<br />

Head inland to Kejimkujik National<br />

Park before continuing to Annapolis<br />

Royal for a two night stay.<br />

Enjoy a full day exploring the<br />

Annapolis Valley.<br />

Take the ferry from Digby across the<br />

Bay of Fundy to Saint John.<br />

A day free to explore Saint John.<br />

Drive today through Fundy National<br />

Park to the Hopewell Rocks.<br />

Spend a full day in Fundy National<br />

Park marvelling at the tides that<br />

sweep the bay.<br />

Queen Anne Inn<br />

Annapolis Royal<br />

Annapolis Royal, named after Queen Anne, is an<br />

historic town of splendid Victorian mansions nestled<br />

between the Annapolis and Allain rivers. Originally<br />

inhabited by a strong Mi’kmaq community, in 1605<br />

the area was settled by some of the first Europeans:<br />

it was controlled by France until peninsula Nova<br />

Scotia was handed over to the British by the treaty<br />

of Utrecht in 1713. Today there are substantial<br />

remains of 18th century Fort Anne with lovely river<br />

views. Other sights include the Bay of Fundy, just<br />

ten kilometres away, the Historic Gardens, Port<br />

Royal National Historic Site and the apple orchards<br />

of the fertile Annapolis Valley.<br />

QUEEN ANNE INN,<br />

ANNAPOLIS ROYAL<br />

The Queen Anne Inn is one of our favourite bed<br />

and breakfast properties, located on the Evangeline<br />

Trail in Annapolis Royal. The house was fully<br />

restored in 1989 with beautifully crafted ash, oak,<br />

and mahogany. The grand staircase takes you to<br />

the well-appointed guest rooms, furnished with<br />

period antiques. There are ten rooms in the main<br />

inn and four rooms in the Carriage House located<br />

directly behind. All rooms have air conditioning,<br />

satellite television, custom-made feather beds and<br />

some also have Jacuzzi baths. The Queen Anne is<br />

famous for its three-course breakfasts and also<br />

offers excellent fine dining in the evenings.<br />

Blomidon Inn<br />

Wolfville<br />

Wolfville lies on the edge of the Bay of Fundy<br />

amidst distinctive tidal mud flats which are home<br />

to hundreds of herons and waders. This affluent<br />

little town has many lovely old Victorian buildings<br />

and is home to Acadia University. Visitors should<br />

not miss Robie Tufts Nature Centre where, on<br />

summer evenings, enormous flocks of chimney<br />

swifts give amazing aerobatic performances before<br />

swooping en masse to roost for the night. The<br />

rugged nearby peninsulas of Capes Blomidon and<br />

Split provide spectacular views and wonderful<br />

coastal walking trails.<br />

BLOMIDON INN,<br />

WOLFVILLE<br />

Set on Main Street in the heart of Wolfville,<br />

the Blomidon Inn is a 19th century sea captain’s<br />

mansion which has been tastefully restored to<br />

offer 29 guest rooms. Each is individually<br />

decorated and furnished with period antiques.<br />

Continental breakfast and afternoon tea is<br />

complimentary, while in the evenings the Laceby<br />

family is proud to offer gourmet dining and an<br />

award-winning wine list. Outside, the Victorianinspired<br />

gardens are filled with rhododendrons,<br />

azaleas, roses and lupins.<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Day 16<br />

Day 17<br />

Day 18<br />

Day 19<br />

Day 20<br />

Day 21<br />

Cross the Confederation Bridge to<br />

Prince Edward Island for a two night<br />

stay in Charlottetown.<br />

PEI’s delightful little capital is yours<br />

to explore.<br />

Head to Spry Point for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Enjoy a day at leisure at Spry Point.<br />

Take the ferry to Nova Scotia;<br />

continue your drive to Port<br />

Hawkesbury for an overnight stay.<br />

Enjoy a wonderfully scenic drive<br />

along the Cabot Trail.<br />

Explore the magnificent scenery<br />

of Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park.<br />

Today drive southeast to Louisbourg.<br />

Immerse yourself in the history of<br />

18th century France at the fortress<br />

of Louisbourg.<br />

Head to Charlos Cove on Nova<br />

Scotia’s Atlantic Coast.<br />

Drive along the rugged Atlantic<br />

coast to end your tour in Halifax.<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

69


70<br />

The Cabot Trail<br />

Liscomb Mills<br />

The Liscomb region of Nova Scotia’s Atlantic<br />

coast is one of the wildest and most rugged<br />

parts of the province. The Ice Age left a diverse<br />

landscape of drumlin fields, erratic boulders and<br />

the land of wild rivers and lakes that is seen<br />

today. Spruce forests emerge from channel fens<br />

and lakeshore swamps, whilst rich hardwoods<br />

and mixed forest are wedged between rolling<br />

hills and glacial deposits. This is superb hiking and<br />

wildlife country where the salty tang of the sea<br />

is never far away.<br />

Liscombe Lodge<br />

LISCOMBE LODGE<br />

Nestled amongst the evergreens on Marina Drive,<br />

Liscombe Lodge enjoys a beautiful river-side setting.<br />

Wake to the sounds of early morning birdsong and<br />

be lulled to sleep by the mystical call of the loon -<br />

this is life at Liscombe Lodge. Each of the 30 guest<br />

bedrooms in the main lodge has a river view and<br />

a private balcony, while further accommodation is<br />

provided by a selection of cottages and chalets in<br />

the grounds. Days can be spent canoeing or taking<br />

boat trips on the Liscomb River while nature trails<br />

lead to local beauty spots and nearby Sherbrooke<br />

Village which is a living museum of life in the 1800s.<br />

After activities, unwind on the veranda with views<br />

of kingfishers, ospreys and eagles while the house<br />

speciality, planked salmon, is prepared.<br />

SEAWIND LANDING,<br />

CHARLOS COVE<br />

This romantic seaside inn has a true flavour of<br />

ocean living at its finest. The living room, library,<br />

and music room are tastefully furnished with<br />

antiques and fine art whilst the dining room offers<br />

gourmet meals and an extensive wine cellar. Most<br />

of the rooms have balconies right on the ocean,<br />

filled with the sounds of the waves. The inn<br />

keepers, Lorraine and Jim Colvin, invite you to<br />

join them on their ten metre sailing sloop to<br />

observe marine wildlife amongst the Barrier<br />

Islands, and lunch – or even breakfast – can<br />

be provided on board.<br />

Acadian colours<br />

Charlos Cove<br />

The small village of Charlos Cove lies on the<br />

Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia near Cape Breton<br />

Island. Many Acadians settled here at the end of<br />

the 18th century and several early 19th century<br />

buildings remain. The area has many secluded<br />

sandy beaches and extensive peaceful coastal<br />

walking trails with stunning ocean views.<br />

Seawind Landing


Treasures of Nova Scotia<br />

Nova Scotia captures the essence of coastal<br />

Canada and this comprehensive tour takes you<br />

from the wild and sea-battered Atlantic coast to<br />

the sheltered waters of the Northumberland<br />

Strait. ‘New Scotland’, is a treasure chest<br />

of delights.<br />

Day 1<br />

Collect your hire car in Halifax and<br />

head inland to the small university<br />

town of Wolfville.<br />

Explore this lovely small town with<br />

its avenues of elm trees and the<br />

old Acadian villages around the<br />

Minas Basin.<br />

Day 2<br />

Highland dancers<br />

Louisbourg Fortress<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> through the fertile Annapolis<br />

Valley to the historic town of<br />

Annapolis Royal.<br />

Enjoy a day exploring the town with<br />

its grand old houses and nearby<br />

orchards and farmers’ markets.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive past Kejimkujik National Park<br />

and onwards to Lunenburg.<br />

Day 6<br />

Wander at leisure around the old<br />

fishing village of Lunenburg.<br />

Day 7<br />

Pass through the heart of Nova<br />

Scotia via Halifax and Truro to the<br />

little town of Tatamagouche.<br />

Keltic Lodge<br />

Louisbourg Harbour Inn<br />

Day 8<br />

Spend a day exploring the small<br />

charming towns along the<br />

Northumberland Strait.<br />

Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park and<br />

the Cabot Trail<br />

This park was established in 1936 when the<br />

government set aside 950 square kilometres of<br />

the northern tip of Cape Breton Island to protect<br />

some of Canada’s most famous scenery, a land<br />

of mountains, forest wilderness, windswept<br />

coastal beauty and charming fishing villages.<br />

The best-known feature of the park is the Cabot<br />

Trail that draws thousands of visitors every year<br />

and is renowned for being one of the most<br />

spectacular coastal drives in North America.<br />

Visitors stay on the outskirts of the park at<br />

Ingonish, a collection of small villages around<br />

two bays on the southeast corner.<br />

Louisbourg<br />

Famed for its fortress, Louisbourg offers summer<br />

visitors a taste of life in 1744 as costumed<br />

animators re-enact history. Recognising the<br />

economic and military potential of the harbour<br />

and fishery, Louis XIV secured it for France in<br />

1713 by constructing a well-fortified, walled city.<br />

During the 18th century Louisbourg was the third<br />

busiest seaport on the American continent but<br />

was successfully besieged by New England troops<br />

in 1745 and by British troops in 1758. In the<br />

1960s reconstruction began on the fortress ruins,<br />

and it became the largest project of its kind in<br />

North America. Today it is the flagship of Parks<br />

Canada’s restored properties. The town has a<br />

theatre and railway museum and is surrounded<br />

by sandy beaches.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

Drive eastwards to Port Hawkesbury<br />

at the southern tip of Cape Breton<br />

Island for your overnight stay.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the beautiful Cabot<br />

Trail to Cape Breton Highlands<br />

National Park.<br />

Take a full day to enjoy the National<br />

Park, with its many hiking trails and<br />

wonderful ocean vistas.<br />

Head through St. Ann’s and North<br />

Sydney to Louisbourg.<br />

Explore the reconstructed former<br />

French fortress of Louisbourg.<br />

Today you cross the Canso<br />

Causeway and head around<br />

Chedabucto Bay to Charlos Cove.<br />

Heading south, arrive at Liscomb<br />

for your overnight stay.<br />

KELTIC LODGE, INGONISH BEACH<br />

High on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean,<br />

Keltic Lodge commands magnificent views of<br />

Cape Breton Highlands National Park and Cape<br />

Smokey. Accommodation is in the main lodge,<br />

the Inn at Keltic or one of the cottages: at each<br />

your comfort is assured. There is a choice of<br />

restaurants and nightly entertainment, a tennis<br />

court and heated outdoor swimming pool. From<br />

here you can also tour the world-famous Cabot<br />

Trail, walk along wilderness trails through ancient<br />

forests, play golf on the Highland Links course or<br />

take a boat trip out to see whales.<br />

LOUISBOURG HARBOUR INN<br />

This century-old sea captain’s house is situated<br />

on the harbour, just off Main Street and next<br />

to a working fishing wharf and the Louisbourg<br />

Playhouse. There are eight beautifully decorated<br />

guest rooms, six of which overlook the historic<br />

harbour. Each has a queen bed, en suite<br />

bathroom, hardwood floors and high ceilings.<br />

A balcony for guests overlooks the water with<br />

excellent views of the fishing boats, wharves and<br />

the fortress with the ocean beyond.<br />

Day 16<br />

Continue your drive south to Halifax<br />

where your tour ends upon arrival.<br />

Nova Scotia: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

71


The Hopewell Rocks at low tide<br />

New Brunswick<br />

New Brunswick is renowned for being home<br />

to the Bay of Fundy, washed each day by the<br />

world’s highest tides. Along this dramatic<br />

coastline you will also find Fundy National<br />

Park, the Hopewell Rocks, the vibrant city of<br />

Saint John, and charming Passamaquoddy<br />

Bay. The nearby islands of Grand Manan and<br />

Campobello are enchanting retreats from the<br />

modern world. The provincial capital is<br />

Fredericton, a city of genteel villas and art<br />

galleries whilst the pretty nearby village of<br />

Gagetown is famed for its old riverside houses.<br />

To the east are the wonderful sand dunes and<br />

lagoons of Kouchibouguac National Park and<br />

the world-famous salmon fishing river, the<br />

Mirimichi. The Caraquet region is home to<br />

many Acadian settlers and is an area where<br />

the 20th century has yet to gain a foothold.<br />

Other attractions include the leafy resort<br />

town of St. Andrews, Tidal Bore Park and<br />

Magnetic Hill in Moncton, Grand Falls<br />

Gorge and Fort Beausejour historic site.<br />

The Bay of Fundy<br />

Home to the highest tides in the world, the Bay<br />

of Fundy stretches 270 kilometres between the<br />

provinces of New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.<br />

Each day 100 billion tonnes of seawater flows in<br />

and out of the bay during each tide cycle – more<br />

than the combined flow of all the world’s<br />

freshwater rivers. Fundy National Park, bordering<br />

the bay, has wild and rugged sea cliffs, tidal mud<br />

flats and forested hills which are home to<br />

exhilarating walking trails. East of here lies the<br />

dramatic Cape Enrage whilst further on at the<br />

Hopewell Rocks you can walk on the ocean<br />

floor during low tide and kayak around the<br />

rocks when the tide is in.<br />

FLORENTINE MANOR, FUNDY<br />

NATIONAL PARK<br />

A warm maritime welcome awaits you at this<br />

heritage inn, built in the 1860s by a local<br />

shipbuilder on the pristine coast of the Bay of<br />

Fundy. There are just nine guest bedrooms,<br />

furnished with antiques and hand-made quilts.<br />

Breakfast is served in the Victorian dining room<br />

whilst the sitting room has a television and a<br />

selection of books making it the perfect place to<br />

meet your fellow guests. Miles of beaches, hiking<br />

trails, bird watching, golfing and horse riding are<br />

all within easy reach.<br />

Saint John<br />

Saint John (not St. John and not to be confused<br />

with St. John’s, Newfoundland) is situated on the<br />

south coast of New Brunswick on the edge of the<br />

Bay of Fundy. Following a devastating fire in 1877,<br />

much of the town was re-built and many of the<br />

Victorian buildings have since been lovingly<br />

restored, especially along Prince William Street.<br />

Two principal attractions are the New Brunswick<br />

Museum and the Reversing Falls Rapids which is a<br />

good place to see the effects of the Fundy tides.<br />

Fundy National Park is nearby, where visitors can<br />

marvel at the highest tides in the world. The city<br />

also offers some great restaurants and pubs<br />

where seafood is a frequent highlight.<br />

LES CHALETS DU HAVRE, NEAR<br />

KOUCHIBOUGUAC NATIONAL PARK<br />

Situated in Richibucto, close to Kouchibouguac<br />

National Park, les Chalets du Havre enjoy a<br />

magnificent coastal setting. There are 24 single and<br />

duplex cottages, each well equipped with sitting<br />

room, full kitchen, and patio with a gas barbeque.<br />

There is a hot tub and heated swimming pool in<br />

the grounds where paddle-boats, canoes, kayaks,<br />

bicycles and tennis equipment are also available<br />

free of charge.<br />

72


Maritime Contrasts<br />

0 37 miles<br />

0 60 kilometres<br />

Edmundston<br />

Grand Falls<br />

Saint<br />

John River<br />

FREDERICTON<br />

Miramichi<br />

St Andrews<br />

Bathurst<br />

Miramichi<br />

River<br />

Doaktown<br />

NEW<br />

BRUNSWICK<br />

Saint<br />

John<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

Bay of Fundy<br />

Richibucto<br />

Fundy<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Chaleur Bay<br />

Caraquet<br />

Bouctouche<br />

Hopewell Rocks<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Kouchibouguac<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Alma<br />

NOVA<br />

SCOTIA<br />

Northumberland Strait<br />

Moncton<br />

Riverside<br />

Albert<br />

Gulf of St<br />

Lawrence<br />

PRINCE<br />

EDWARD<br />

ISLAND<br />

This lovely trip gets well away from the well-worn<br />

tourist trail. Particular delights include the salmonfilled<br />

Miramichi River and the quaint villages along<br />

its banks, the breathtaking Dune of Bouctouche<br />

and Kouchibouguac National Park.<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Drive from Saint John to<br />

Fredericton, New Brunswick’s<br />

capital. Spend time exploring this<br />

historic old town before continuing<br />

to Doaktown.<br />

Delightful Doaktown nestles in a<br />

sylvan setting beside the Miramichi<br />

River, famous for salmon fishing.<br />

Drive through the town of Miramichi<br />

to Richibucto on the<br />

Northumberland Strait.<br />

Spend the day exploring<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park and<br />

the nearby Dune of Bouctouche.<br />

From Richibucto head south past<br />

Moncton to the Bay of Fundy.<br />

Learn all about the world’s highest<br />

tides at Hopewell Rocks and Fundy<br />

National Park.<br />

Day 7<br />

Drive back to Saint John to return<br />

your hire car at the end of your trip.<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park<br />

and the Dune of Bouctouche<br />

On the eastern coast of New Brunswick is the<br />

Kouchibouguac National Park, a wonderful region of<br />

coastal forests, bogs, salt marshes, lagoons and sandy<br />

beaches. A fragile ecosystem has evolved over the<br />

millennia, creating a startling diversity of rare flora and<br />

fauna. Kellys Beach is one of the principal attractions,<br />

boasting some of the warmest waters north of<br />

Virginia and a variety of nearby coastal walking trails.<br />

The Dune of Bouctouche, home to the rare piping<br />

plover, is some 50 kilometres to the south, with a<br />

fascinating interpretive centre and an extensive<br />

boardwalk to protect the fragile environment.<br />

Doaktown and<br />

the Miramichi River<br />

Built on a fabled history of heroic lumberjacks<br />

and mighty log drives, this area is best known<br />

for the legendary fly fishing on the Miramichi,<br />

one of New Brunswick’s premier salmon rivers.<br />

The small village of Doaktown lies on the banks<br />

of the river in the heart of New Brunswick: it is<br />

home to the famous fishing tackle shop of W.W.<br />

Doak and the Atlantic Museum of the Salmon,<br />

while the Central Woodsmen Museum is close<br />

by. The beauty of the Miramichi River can also be<br />

enjoyed by canoe or kayak and the nearby New<br />

Brunswick Trail, the bed of a former railway, is<br />

great for walking and cycling and provides<br />

stunning views and wildlife sightings.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

Some delightful extensions to consider to this<br />

tour are Nova Scotia, accessible by ferry across<br />

the Bay of Fundy, or Prince Edward Island which<br />

lies nearby just across the Confederation Bridge.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

LEDGES INN, DOAKTOWN<br />

Set in two hectares on the shores of the<br />

Miramichi River in Doaktown, this beautiful inn<br />

is tastefully decorated to reflect the surrounding<br />

natural beauty. There are 11 guest rooms, all<br />

with river views, a fine dining restaurant and a bar.<br />

The inn is owned and operated by Caroline<br />

Taylor and her husband Everett, a 6th generation<br />

guide who has been fishing and hunting the region<br />

all his life. Caroline’s love for cooking and people<br />

make an ideal combination for a wonderful stay.<br />

One for the table<br />

New Brunswick: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Fishing on the Miramichi River<br />

73


West Point Lighthouse<br />

Prince Edward Island<br />

Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest<br />

province, is a land of rich, rolling, red<br />

farmland, verdant valleys, stunning seascapes<br />

and bustling harbours. This is Canada’s<br />

birthplace - confederation was signed here<br />

in 1867 - and was home to Lucy Maud<br />

Montgomery, author of ‘Anne of Green<br />

Gables’. The island has a cornucopia of natural<br />

treasures such as Brudenall, Linkletter and<br />

Souris Beach Provincial Parks, the ‘singing’<br />

sands of Basin Head and countless lighthouses<br />

that evoke the region’s maritime heritage.<br />

The recently-constructed Confederation Bridge<br />

allows easy access from New Brunswick to<br />

some of Canada’s finest beaches, best golf<br />

courses, friendliest locals and, of course, the<br />

delectable Prince Edward Island lobsters.<br />

Inns on Great George<br />

Charlottetown<br />

The small city of Charlottetown is the capital of the<br />

province of Prince Edward Island. This charming city<br />

is full of leafy avenues of Victorian clapboard houses,<br />

evoking a tangible sense of yesteryear. It was here,<br />

in Province House in 1867, that the colonies of<br />

British North America convened in federation to<br />

form the nation that today is Canada. The city’s<br />

compact size lends itself to exploration on foot;<br />

the Confederation Centre of the Arts, St. Dunstan’s<br />

Basilica, Victoria Park, Founders Hall Museum and<br />

the delightful harbour front are all within easy reach.<br />

The principal thoroughfares are Grafton and Kent<br />

streets, housing a collection of historic buildings and<br />

a good selection of restaurants and shops. Don’t<br />

miss a visit to ‘Cows’, something of an island<br />

institution, renowned for their delicious ice-cream.<br />

INNS ON GREAT GEORGE,<br />

CHARLOTTETOWN<br />

The Inns on Great George are a unique cluster<br />

of 13 award-winning heritage properties located<br />

in the heart of Charlottetown’s historic district.<br />

Lovingly restored, each building has a character and<br />

story of its own. Each property has been restored<br />

to create a small luxury hotel, whilst preserving the<br />

historic charm, elegance and inn-keeping spirit of<br />

the 1800s. Every one of the 54 guest rooms is<br />

unique, being furnished with antiques and all the<br />

comforts and amenities of contemporary living.<br />

Green Gables<br />

Cavendish<br />

Cavendish and the Dune Shores lie on the<br />

northern coast of Prince Edward Island amidst red<br />

sandstone cliffs, sandy dunes and the crystal blue<br />

water warmed by the Gulf Stream. Cavendish is<br />

surrounded by small farming communities and<br />

fishing villages, each with their own particular<br />

character. Shop for antiques and unique locallycrafted<br />

art or explore botanical gardens. This is<br />

the home of ‘Anne of Green Gables’, Lucy Maud<br />

Montgomery’s famous red-haired little girl that<br />

captured the heart of three generations. Step<br />

back to a simpler time as you explore the place<br />

that inspired the book.<br />

74


Prince Edward Island<br />

Discovery<br />

West Point<br />

Gulf of St Lawrence<br />

Prince Edward Island’s charm is in its quiet<br />

beaches, lighthouses, sand dunes and fertile<br />

farmland. This itinerary encapsulates all of<br />

these and introduces the very best of this<br />

island province.<br />

Linkletter<br />

Provincial<br />

Park<br />

Confederation<br />

Bridge<br />

NEW<br />

BRUNSWICK<br />

Summerside<br />

Cavendish<br />

Prince Edward<br />

CHARLOTTETOWN<br />

Island National Park<br />

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND<br />

Brudenell River<br />

Provincial Park<br />

Souris<br />

Spry Point<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Collect your hire car and head west<br />

from Charlottetown to West Point<br />

on the island’s west coast.<br />

Enjoy a day at West Point, perhaps<br />

hire a bicycle to explore the quiet<br />

lanes along the long sandy beaches<br />

beside the lighthouse.<br />

0 14 miles<br />

0 22 kilometres<br />

Northumberland Strait<br />

Wood Islands<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Today your route takes you to<br />

Brackley Beach on the north shore<br />

of the island.<br />

The day is yours to enjoy Prince<br />

Edward Island National Park or<br />

nearby Cavendish.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive to Spry Point on the eastern<br />

coast of the island, for a two<br />

night stay.<br />

Day 6<br />

Spend a day at leisure to relax<br />

and enjoy the wonderful seascape<br />

or explore Brudenell River<br />

Provincial Park.<br />

Day 7<br />

Return to Charlottetown to drop<br />

off your hire car at the end of<br />

your tour.<br />

Lobsters<br />

WEST POINT LIGHTHOUSE,<br />

WEST POINT<br />

West Point Lighthouse was constructed in<br />

1875 and is the tallest and most pleasing of the<br />

square-design lighthouses that are characteristic of<br />

the island. Located on the western tip of Prince<br />

Edward Island, the lighthouse towers over the fine<br />

red sand beach, busy with locals and visitors<br />

clamming, horse riding and fishing, while walking<br />

and cycling trails head through the woods. The<br />

nine cosy guest rooms are all thoughtfully furnished<br />

to recreate the era of the light-keepers and there<br />

is a superb licensed dining room specialising in<br />

charbroiled steak, lobster, scallops, PEI blue mussels<br />

and home-made lighthouse chowder.<br />

Collecting seaweed<br />

THE INN AT SPRY POINT<br />

Spry Point is a feast for the eyes: a 45 hectare<br />

peninsula of red cliffs and white sandy beaches,<br />

all surrounded by water. Each of the 15 luxurious<br />

rooms has either a balcony or a garden terrace -<br />

perfect to enjoy a glass of wine and listen to the<br />

crash of the waves – while the elegant dining<br />

room serves the freshest ingredients from local<br />

suppliers, with organic vegetables and herbs<br />

being especially grown for the inn. This private<br />

and luxurious inn is an ideal base for bird<br />

watching and day walking on many easy trails.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

It is simple to combine Prince Edward Island<br />

with a stay in other parts of Atlantic Canada,<br />

or you may wish to visit the delightful Îles de<br />

la Madeleine, accessible by ferry from Souris.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Confederation Bridge<br />

Prince Edward Island: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

The Inn at Spry Point<br />

75


The Northern Peninsula<br />

Newfoundland<br />

and Labrador<br />

Newfoundland and Labrador evoke images<br />

of majestic mountains and rugged ocean shores.<br />

In early summer icebergs, shorn from 10,000<br />

year old glaciers, glide along Iceberg Alley<br />

through seas rich with whales and sealions.<br />

The seabird colonies here are the largest in the<br />

northern hemisphere, attracting over 35 million<br />

seabirds annually. In the interior, moose and<br />

herds of caribou trek through primeval forests<br />

whilst the very northern tip of the island is<br />

home to L’Anse aux Meadows, the only<br />

authenticated Viking site in North America.<br />

St. John’s is the pretty historic capital with more<br />

pubs per square kilometre than any other city on<br />

the continent: island hospitality is renowned<br />

and will surely be a lasting memory of your stay.<br />

The cuisine here is as diverse as the province’s<br />

heritage. From jiggs dinner to toutons and<br />

molasses to the mug-up, Newfoundland dishes<br />

have been handed down for generations and are<br />

a feature of this province’s distinctive appeal.<br />

St. John’s<br />

The small city of St John’s is the capital of<br />

Newfoundland and is set on this diverse<br />

province’s east coast. The harbour area is the<br />

heart of the city: in days gone by this was the<br />

focus of an important maritime trade and fishing<br />

fleet. The houses at the harbour mouth gleam<br />

brightly with all the paints the fishermen had left<br />

over from their boats: reds, greens, yellows,<br />

whites and blues make them look like jelly beans<br />

scattered around the base of Signal Hill. This lively<br />

waterfront is now better known for its nightlife,<br />

with countless restaurants, historic pubs and some<br />

great folk music. The summer brings a host of<br />

activities, from whale watching and iceberg<br />

spotting to exploring excellent museums<br />

highlighting more than 500 years of history.<br />

Don’t miss a climb to the top of Signal Hill for<br />

spectacular views over the city and nearby<br />

coastline, and be sure to visit the most easterly<br />

point in North America, Cape Spear, close to<br />

the historic village of Quidi Vidi.<br />

St. John’s harbour<br />

LEASIDE MANOR, ST JOHN’S<br />

Leaside Manor is a gracious and carefully restored<br />

manor house that, in the 1920s, belonged to one<br />

of Newfoundland’s most prominent families.<br />

Today this bed and breakfast property retains<br />

much of its period charm and has eleven light and<br />

airy rooms and suites with hardwood floors and<br />

luxury bathrooms and bed linens. A highlight of<br />

your stay will surely be the scrumptious<br />

breakfasts. Ideally located, St Johns’ many<br />

attractions are just a 20 minute walk away.<br />

Terra Nova National Park<br />

Terra Nova National Park was established in<br />

1957 to protect the Atlantic uplands and boreal<br />

forest of eastern Newfoundland. Covering 400<br />

square kilometres, the park includes spruce<br />

forests, rolling hills, bogs, streams and glacial<br />

features, fringed by a rugged coastline broken<br />

with sheltered inlets. The area has supported an<br />

impressive array of marine and terrestrial life for<br />

thousands of years: salmon, moose, bears, lynx<br />

and bald eagles are just some of the wildlife you<br />

may see. For millennia the Beothuk found refuge<br />

here and the brief incursion of European settlers<br />

is marked by a scattering of now-abandoned<br />

ruins along the coast.<br />

76


Newfoundland Uncovered<br />

Torngat<br />

Mountains<br />

Hebron<br />

Nain<br />

This tour not only takes you through dramatic and<br />

rugged landscapes to stunning national parks and<br />

beautiful bays, but also to half-forgotten fishing<br />

villages where the locals speak with broad and<br />

diverse accents. This tour showcases<br />

Newfoundland at its best.<br />

Labrador<br />

City<br />

Churchill<br />

Falls<br />

0 100 miles<br />

0 160 kilometres<br />

LABRADOR<br />

QUÉBEC ´<br />

Hopedale<br />

Happy Valley-<br />

Goose Bay<br />

Port au<br />

Choix<br />

Gros Morne<br />

National Park<br />

Corner Brook<br />

Cabot Strait<br />

Atlantic Ocean<br />

Red Bay<br />

Channel-Portaux<br />

Basques<br />

Cartwright<br />

Strait of Belle Isle<br />

Deer<br />

Lake<br />

Battle Harbour<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows<br />

St Anthony<br />

Notre<br />

Dame<br />

Bay<br />

Grand<br />

Falls-<br />

Windsor<br />

Twillingate<br />

Terra<br />

Nova<br />

NP<br />

NEWFOUNDLAND<br />

Cape St Mary’s<br />

Ecological Reserve<br />

Bonavista<br />

Port Rexton<br />

Trinity Bay<br />

ST<br />

JOHN’S<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Day 8<br />

Drive south from St. John’s to the<br />

pretty village of Colinet on the<br />

Avalon Peninsula.<br />

Arrive in Cape St. Mary’s to see the<br />

massive seabird colonies before<br />

heading north to Trinity Bay.<br />

Spend a day exploring the delightful<br />

fishing villages around Trinity Bay.<br />

Head through Terra Nova National<br />

Park to Twillingate.<br />

Enjoy a day at leisure in Twillingate,<br />

keeping a look out for passing<br />

icebergs in the bay.<br />

Today’s journey takes you west to<br />

the spectacular Gros Morne<br />

National Park.<br />

Cruise the awe-inspiring Western<br />

Brook Pond Fjord.<br />

Drive along the western coast of the<br />

Northern Peninsula past historic Port<br />

au Choix to L’Anse aux Meadows.<br />

Twillingate<br />

Twillingate is an historic fishing village situated on<br />

the shore of Notre Dame Bay, a superb vantage<br />

point for watching icebergs older than our<br />

western civilisation as they float by, through the<br />

summer months, on the Greenland Current.<br />

These waters are also home to a vast number of<br />

marine mammals, and whales can usually be seen<br />

by boat or from the shore at Long Point.<br />

Cape Bonavista lighthouse<br />

HARBOUR LIGHTS INN,<br />

TWILLINGATE<br />

Located on the waterfront in the idyllic old<br />

harbour at Twillingate, lies the recently restored<br />

19th century Harbour Lights Inn. There are nine<br />

en suite bedrooms, several of which have sea and<br />

harbour views. Guests can relax in the lounge,<br />

watching fishing boats arriving in and departing<br />

from the harbour or explore the local area,<br />

keeping an eye out for whales and icebergs.<br />

Trinity Bay<br />

Trinity Bay is a delightful region of clapboard<br />

villages dotted around a crescent of hills that hem<br />

in a deep and intricate bay. Whales and icebergs<br />

are thrilling summer sights and there are several<br />

museums to visit. Between New Bonaventure and<br />

English Harbour on Trinity Bay the rugged<br />

coastline is dotted with 12 picturesque fishing<br />

ports, of which Port Rexton is perhaps the<br />

prettiest. Trinity Bay itself is known for its pageant<br />

and theatre festival, restaurants and boat trips,<br />

while close to Ship Cove the former fortification<br />

of Fox Island surveys a dramatic landscape of<br />

icebergs and ospreys.<br />

FISHERS’ LOFT INN, TRINITY BAY<br />

Nestled in the hills on a quiet winding lane,<br />

Fishers’ Loft Inn overlooks the old fishing and<br />

boat-building harbour of Ship Cove in Port<br />

Rexton. The inn is a collection of local Victorian<br />

buildings scattered closely over a hillside where<br />

forest meets meadow. Winding paths connect<br />

the houses of the inn that provide 20 casually<br />

elegant rooms and suites, most with sea views,<br />

and all bright and spacious, with hand-crafted<br />

furniture and original works of art. The licensed<br />

dining room serves delicious seasonal food<br />

harvested from the ocean, seaside meadows<br />

and the inn’s kitchen garden.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Leaside Manor<br />

Today discover the fascinating<br />

recreated Viking village at L’Anse<br />

aux Meadows.<br />

Take the ferry from St. Anthony<br />

to Red Bay in Labrador, the world’s<br />

largest whaling port in the<br />

16th century.<br />

Drive back along the Northern<br />

Peninsula to Deer Lake to drop off<br />

your hire car at the end of your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Newfoundland & Labrador: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

77


Western Brook Pond Fjord, Gros Morne National Park<br />

The Northern Peninsula<br />

Approximately 300 kilometres long and rich in<br />

history, the Northern Peninsula is a highlight of<br />

any visit to Newfoundland. It is overflowing with<br />

stunning natural features, pre-historic sites and<br />

fishing villages dating back to the early days of<br />

colonisation. Every year the coastal waters<br />

welcome countless whales and from spring into<br />

early summer the sea is transformed by the<br />

annual parade of icebergs, fragments of millenniaold<br />

glaciers. The land is filled with healthy<br />

populations of moose, caribou and black bears,<br />

while the rivers and lakes teem with salmon. In<br />

the south, Deer Lake is a good starting point to<br />

load up with fuel and provisions before heading<br />

to the fjords of Gros Morne National Park, widely<br />

acclaimed as one of the most beautiful parks in all<br />

Canada. Heading north, Hawkes Bay is an early<br />

20th century whaling station and Port au Choix is<br />

a historic site dedicated to exhibitions of Maritime<br />

Archaic Indians and the Dorset Eskimos who lived<br />

here in 2,000BC and AD500 respectively. At the<br />

northern tip of the peninsula lies L’Anse aux<br />

Meadows, thought to be the original landing site<br />

of Viking settlers over 1,000 years ago, while<br />

nearby Ship Cove is the isolated Canadian<br />

community where Annie Proulx wrote and set<br />

her award-winning book, ‘The Shipping News’.<br />

CANADIAN SAILING EXPEDITIONS<br />

Experience the thrill of sailing the coasts of<br />

Newfoundland and Nova Scotia on classic<br />

windjammer tall ships, with the wind filling the sails<br />

and the tang of salt in the air. Typically, cruises last<br />

for about a week and visit small remote villages,<br />

wonderful sounding hideaways such as Man o’ War<br />

Cove and magnificent natural phenomena like Gros<br />

Morne National Park. Re-live the great age<br />

of sail whilst enjoying the modern-day comforts of<br />

private cabins with en suite showers and hearty<br />

wholesome meals in a spacious dining room. The<br />

Caledonia, the vessel that usually sails these waters,<br />

is a 75 metre square-rigged barquentine, a majestic<br />

and traditional tall ship with a large salon, long<br />

mahogany bar and library where guests can mingle<br />

in comfort. Guests can also sign up for the daily<br />

sailing activities, including historical lectures, sailing<br />

theory, climbing the rigging or taking the wheel: the<br />

choice is geared towards all ages and fitness levels.<br />

Gros Morne National Park<br />

This landscape of bays, beaches, sea stacks and<br />

bare-topped mountains cut through by fjords has<br />

an irresistible, intoxicating beauty. Nestled in the<br />

Long Range Mountains, the Gros Morne National<br />

Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that offers<br />

unparalleled walking through wild uninhabited<br />

mountains and boat tours under towering cliffs. This<br />

is a place to see geology in action, with a thin<br />

veneer of the living world clinging to the hard rock.<br />

NEDDIES HARBOUR INN,<br />

GROS MORNE NATIONAL PARK<br />

Neddies Harbour Inn is a luxurious, waterfront inn<br />

located in Norris Point, right in the heart of Gros<br />

Morne National Park. This tranquil location provides<br />

magnificent views of the bay, the Long Range<br />

Mountains and the Tablelands. The inn has 15<br />

spacious and tastefully furnished rooms, a restaurant<br />

serving the freshest local ingredients, an exercise<br />

room, sauna, and hot tub. Emphasis is placed on<br />

environmentally-friendly energy systems and the use<br />

of authentic local craftsmanship and products.<br />

78<br />

The square-rigged barquentine Caledonia


Colourful fishing boats<br />

The Torngat Mountains, Labrador<br />

Quirpon Lighthouse Inn<br />

QUIRPON LIGHTHOUSE INN,<br />

QUIRPON ISLAND<br />

This restored light-keeper’s home on the shores<br />

of ‘Iceberg Alley’ is one of Newfoundland’s most<br />

unusual bed and breakfasts. Located on a<br />

deserted island at the northernmost point in<br />

Newfoundland, overlooking the Viking site at<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows, Quirpon has the longest<br />

season in Newfoundland for iceberg viewing. As<br />

you drift off to sleep in one of the ten wellappointed<br />

rooms, let the powerful North Atlantic<br />

surf remind you of the hardiness of the<br />

generations of light-keepers who lived in this<br />

isolated spot: here your nearest neighbours may<br />

be the whales migrating past your door. The<br />

island has a beautiful walk to an abandoned fishing<br />

village and another follows the cliffs to the<br />

unexcavated remains of ancient sod huts, the last<br />

traces of an ancient culture.<br />

TICKLE INN, CAPE ONION<br />

The Tickle Inn at Cape Onion is one of the<br />

most northerly homes in the province, a typical<br />

old Newfoundland property that has been<br />

restored by David Adams, a fourth generation<br />

member of the original owner’s family. The ocean<br />

is on the doorstep and the house is surrounded<br />

by nearly four hectares of meadows and hills:<br />

great for leisurely beachcombing and walking.<br />

The four bedrooms are original to the house<br />

and have been occupied by the Adams family<br />

Tuckamore Lodge<br />

for almost 100 years: though small and with<br />

shared bathrooms they are attractive and are<br />

traditionally decorated. Evening meals are<br />

delicious and home-cooked, seasoned with lively<br />

conversation and perhaps, if you are keen,<br />

followed by David’s rendition of a traditional<br />

eastern seaboard song or two.<br />

TUCKAMORE LODGE, MAIN BROOK<br />

Tuckamore Lodge is a place to unwind and<br />

reconnect with nature. The heart of Tuckamore<br />

Lodge is your host, Barb Genge and her friendly,<br />

local staff, all of whom take great pride in sharing<br />

their knowledge of the region’s heritage, flora and<br />

fauna. Spend your days whale watching, canoeing,<br />

walking, fishing or merely exploring the area.<br />

Lobster pots<br />

Neddies Harbour Inn<br />

The property offers Scandinavian-style<br />

accommodation in the midst of northern<br />

Newfoundland’s spectacular wilderness. The two<br />

wooden lodges are each decorated with local<br />

artwork and have spectacular lake views. Facilities<br />

include a sauna, hot tub, library and a living room,<br />

while meals are served in communal dining<br />

rooms and include such Newfoundland favourites<br />

as Atlantic salmon and bakeapples. Wildlife<br />

abounds - millions of seabirds return annually<br />

and there are large populations of moose,<br />

caribou and black bears.<br />

Red Bay<br />

Red Bay is one of the oldest occupied ports<br />

along the Labrador Straits, established by Breton<br />

fishermen and Basque whalers during the 16th<br />

century to refine whale oil for export back to<br />

Europe. The sheltered harbour of Red Bay was<br />

at the heart of this hazardous and pioneering<br />

industry and is now a UNESCO Historical Site<br />

with important archeological finds, including<br />

sunken Basque whaling galleons. Local legends<br />

of Red Bay make reference to hidden treasure<br />

buried in a body of water known as Pond<br />

on the Hill.<br />

Newfoundland & Labrador: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

79


Arctic Expedition Cruising<br />

Beyond the tree-line at the earth’s northern<br />

extremity lies the Arctic. By turns serene,<br />

majestic, wild and ferocious, these chill lands<br />

and waters frame some of the world’s most<br />

hardy and enchanting flora and fauna, clinging<br />

to a precarious knife-edge of survival. Icebound<br />

through the winter, in the summer the rocky<br />

tundra is carpeted with delicate wildflowers<br />

and supports a surprising abundance of wildlife.<br />

For 4,000 years successive generations have<br />

adapted to the harsh Arctic environment,<br />

developing distinctive cultures that left traces<br />

on the land, and in our language. Kayak,<br />

parka, husky, anorak, and igloo are words we<br />

adopted from early attempts to map the region,<br />

borrowed from the Arctic people in hazardous –<br />

and often tragic – voyages of exploration. Much<br />

of the Arctic is also only accessible in the summer<br />

months of July and August, when the frozen<br />

seas melt briefly to reveal enormous, barren<br />

islands, some the size of small countries.<br />

Temperatures at this time average nine degrees<br />

Celsius but can reach as high as 18 degrees on<br />

sunny days. It is in these seasonally accessible<br />

areas that those with an adventurous spirit and<br />

an enquiring mind can experience unique<br />

expedition cruises that visit Inuit settlements,<br />

sites of European explorer history and a<br />

wonderful variety of wildlife, all set amongst<br />

fantastically remote scenery on a truly epic scale.<br />

80


<strong>Audley</strong> in the Arctic<br />

We work with a number of carefully selected<br />

cruise companies whose journeys of adventure<br />

include, amongst other places, the infamous<br />

Northwest Passage, the Inuit capital – Iqaluit – on<br />

Baffin Island, a Viking route that combines<br />

Greenland and Newfoundland as well as dedicated<br />

cruises to the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen.<br />

Accommodation on these ships is simple but this<br />

is compensated for by the smaller, more intimate<br />

size of the vessels. Fascinating expert guest<br />

speakers bring natural history and anthropology<br />

to life and also conduct shore-based activities to<br />

some of the planet’s most fascinating and remote<br />

regions. Most days will see you getting off the ship<br />

once and often twice a day in small, guided groups.<br />

Cruises, lasting seven nights or more, can be<br />

seamlessly woven into tailor-made journeys<br />

through Canada and Alaska.<br />

History and Culture<br />

The Inuit have been in the Arctic region for<br />

millennia, having arrived, it is thought, when<br />

their ancestors followed herds of game across<br />

an ice bridge that crossed the Bering Sea.<br />

Expedition cruises reveal how the different<br />

cultures fished, hunted, sang, danced, and carved<br />

exquisite sculptures during your visits to the<br />

small settlements that dot the remote coastlines.<br />

In some locations Nordic culture prevails,<br />

particularly in Spitsbergen and Greenland where<br />

you may encounter brightly coloured houses,<br />

fascinating museums and a quiet appreciation of<br />

the significance of the early exploits by Viking<br />

navigators in the 8th century. It wasn’t until the<br />

early 19th century that European expeditions set<br />

out in search of the famous Northwest Passage,<br />

the seasonal route that connects the Atlantic<br />

and the Pacific oceans. Sir William Edward Parry<br />

led several expeditions, but success had to wait<br />

for Amundsen’s voyage in 1905. Hopes that the<br />

route could provide speedier trade between<br />

Europe and Asia proved impractical, due to the<br />

sea being frozen over for most of the year, but<br />

the inspirational spirit of adventure can still be<br />

felt in this remote and hazardous part of the<br />

world. The final resting place of several of Sir<br />

John Franklin’s crew, near Resolute, is a solemn<br />

reminder that this is truly an untamed wilderness.<br />

Musk oxen<br />

Beaufort<br />

Sea<br />

Cambridge Bay<br />

Bathurst<br />

Inlet<br />

Spitsbergen shoreline<br />

Wildlife<br />

Magnetic<br />

North Pole<br />

Victoria<br />

Island<br />

Arctic<br />

Ocean<br />

Resolute<br />

King<br />

Elu<br />

William<br />

Island<br />

Inlet<br />

NUNAVUT<br />

North Pole<br />

Ellesmere<br />

Island<br />

Devon<br />

Island<br />

Lancaster Sound<br />

Somerset<br />

Island<br />

Igloolik<br />

Cape Dorset<br />

SPITSBERGEN<br />

Baffin Island<br />

Diverse and highly adapted to their environment,<br />

the wildlife of the Arctic is a major attraction.<br />

On any Arctic cruise you are likely to see a<br />

mixture of marine and terrestrial wildlife in<br />

abundance. Marine animals include a variety of<br />

seals and walrus as well as many types of whales<br />

including the beluga – meaning ‘white one’ in<br />

Russian, humpback whales or even the rare<br />

narwhal. A likely sighting is of polar bears, adapted<br />

for a marine lifestyle and officially classed as a<br />

marine mammal. On land musk oxen, which are<br />

neither oxen nor possessors of musk glands, can<br />

be seen sharing territory with huge herds of<br />

caribou that calve in the spring. Seabirds are<br />

found in fantastic numbers: ornithologists are kept<br />

in seventh heaven for the duration of the trip.<br />

Davis Strait<br />

IQALUIT<br />

Kuujjuaq<br />

Longyearbyen<br />

GREENLAND<br />

LABRADOR<br />

Qaqortoq<br />

Labrador<br />

Sea<br />

0 350 miles<br />

0 563 kilometres<br />

Scenery<br />

Inuit children<br />

Arctic Expedition Cruising<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

ICELAND<br />

REYKJAVIK<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows<br />

Bonavista<br />

ST JOHN’S<br />

NEWFOUNDLAND<br />

There are steep sided fjords and cliffs that are<br />

home to great bird colonies, but these in turn<br />

can be dwarfed by some of the coastal mountain<br />

ranges that are topped by icefields. Low lying<br />

tundra is blanketed with fields of blooming wild<br />

flowers in the summer while glaciers and sea ice<br />

can be blindingly bright as you land to explore.<br />

On the sea, ice floes can cover hundreds of<br />

square kilometres while vast icebergs make their<br />

solitary journeys along the great ocean currents.<br />

The joy of the region is the overwhelming feeling<br />

of being in a true wilderness at the dawn of time.<br />

81


Nordic village<br />

82<br />

Polar Star<br />

Polar Star Expeditions operate a series of cruises,<br />

following the seasons from South to North poles.<br />

The intent of each voyage is to experience the<br />

magic of the Arctic, combining adventure and<br />

comfort with wonderful ocean and land based<br />

wildlife experiences as well as some truly fascinating<br />

cultural and heritage sites. On most days guests<br />

explore using a fleet of ten tough and stable<br />

inflatable zodiac landing craft. When not on zodiac<br />

excursions the on-board programme includes a<br />

series of lectures, presentations and films relating<br />

to the expedition itinerary, presented by the<br />

resident team of experts.<br />

MV Polar Star<br />

Viking Trail to the Americas<br />

This inspirational 18-day cruise sets out each<br />

September to follow in the wake of the Vikings<br />

who sailed in their longboats to Newfoundland<br />

1,000 years ago, keeping a permanent watch for<br />

polar bears, whales, seals, musk oxen and<br />

abundant birdlife. From Reykjavik in Iceland the<br />

Polar Star makes its way to Greenland’s Prins<br />

Christian Sund Fjord with its wonderful glaciers<br />

and icebergs. Visit local markets, ancient Viking<br />

ruins and museums of Nordic and Inuit history;<br />

including Brattahild where Erik the Red’s wife<br />

established the first Christian church in Greenland<br />

and the village of Qaqortoq with sculpture-lined<br />

streets and charming brightly painted houses.<br />

Polar Star then passes through ‘Iceberg Alley’ to<br />

Iqaluit, Inuit capital of Canadian Nunavut, where<br />

you can see beautiful displays of native art before<br />

continuing to Labrador’s Torngat Mountains,<br />

known to the Inuit people as ‘land of the spirits’.<br />

The final stages lead you to Newfoundland and<br />

L’Anse aux Meadows, thought to be Leif<br />

Eriksson’s settlement, before making land at<br />

Bonavista where John Cabot first sighted North<br />

America in 1497. The voyage ends when you<br />

disembark in St Johns.<br />

Exploring by zodiac<br />

MV POLAR STAR<br />

Polar Star was built as an ice-breaker to keep<br />

frozen shipping lanes clear of ice; as such she is<br />

able to embark on expedition cruises even in the<br />

most challenging conditions. The 86 metre vessel<br />

accommodates a maximum of 105 passengers in<br />

comfortable cabins that all have a window or<br />

porthole exterior view and all but the most<br />

modest cabins have private bathrooms. The dress<br />

code is casual and the dining room, with space for<br />

all passengers to eat in one sitting, is a sociable<br />

environment. The observation lounge is open-plan<br />

with panoramic views and excellent lecture<br />

facilities. There is also a library, a cosy bar, mini<br />

gym and the captain’s bridge, with 360 degree<br />

views, that is open to passengers at all times.


Traditional Inuit weaving<br />

Caribou<br />

Cruise North Expeditions<br />

Cruise North Expeditions are owned wholly by<br />

the Inuit and all their cruises are designed to<br />

maximize time spent ashore taking in Inuit villages,<br />

the region’s wildlife colonies and the breathtaking<br />

landscapes. Expeditions are hosted by a mixture<br />

of Inuit and Canadian guides with expertise on<br />

topics such as natural history, anthropology,<br />

zoology and ornithology. Cruise North<br />

Expeditions pride themselves on providing<br />

excellent value while maintaining exceptional<br />

quality, making them the price leaders in Arctic<br />

expedition cruising.<br />

Arctic ice cap<br />

Baffin Adventure<br />

The 8 day Baffin Adventure in July and August has<br />

a particular focus on spending time at uninhabited<br />

landing sites known for their extraordinary wildlife,<br />

and visits national and territorial parks around the<br />

southern part of Baffin Island by zodiac speed<br />

boats. A flight from Montréal reaches Kuujjuaq<br />

but the exact itinerary remains flexible and is<br />

governed by the state of the weather and the<br />

movements of the ice. Natural highlights of the<br />

cruise include finding polar bears summering on<br />

Akpatok Island and tracking herds of musk oxen<br />

across the islands of Quaqtaq and Diana. Cultural<br />

experiences include the scrimshaw bone carving<br />

of Cape Dorset, known as the world centre for<br />

Inuit art, and Iqaluit, the capital of the territory of<br />

Nunavut, while geological wonders include the<br />

Penny Ice Cap, dating back to the Ice Age.<br />

LYUBOV ORLOVA<br />

This 100 metre ship, renovated in 2006, has a<br />

crew of 63 and can carry up to 122 passengers.<br />

The atmosphere is casual on board, typified by<br />

the ‘open bridge’ policy which means that unless<br />

otherwise advised guests are welcome to visit the<br />

captain’s bridge, day or night to learn about the ship<br />

and talk to the officers. All cabins feature two beds,<br />

private washroom facilities and an external window.<br />

Meals are served three times a day in the restaurant<br />

and refreshments are available at any time. The<br />

well-stocked library offers you a place of relaxation<br />

and a chance to brush up on what to expect at<br />

your next destination, talks on the culture, flora and<br />

fauna of the region are given in the lecture theatre<br />

and there is also a friendly and relaxing bar.<br />

Putting the kettle on<br />

Arctic Expedition Cruising<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

At the Arctic Circle<br />

Lyubov Orlova<br />

83


Breaching bowhead whale<br />

Quark Expeditions<br />

Quark Expeditions are the premier operator in<br />

Arctic expedition cruising. Their ice-breaker ships<br />

are impressive, their evening meals five course,<br />

and they even have a helicopter for expeditions<br />

beyond even zodiac reach. Quark were first to<br />

cruise to the North Pole in 1991, the first to<br />

transit Russia’s North-East Passage in 1993 and<br />

the first to circumnavigate the Arctic in 1999.<br />

Their impressive polar experts on board share a<br />

passion for exploration and adventure, leading<br />

expeditions on shore between lectures. Amongst<br />

their staff you’ll find members of the Explorer’s<br />

and Arctic clubs, Fellows of the Royal Geographic<br />

Society and several explorers who have had<br />

mountains named in their honour.<br />

Arctic Quest<br />

Quark’s 18-day cruise leaves Resolute on<br />

Cornwallis Island in late August to cruise to the<br />

Inuit capital of Iqaluit, taking in key elements of<br />

the infamous Northwest Passage, the remotest<br />

parts of northern Greenland, Ellesmere Island<br />

and Baffin Island. You will visit prehistoric winter<br />

houses of Thule peoples – the original native<br />

Americans who crossed the ice bridge from<br />

Siberia – smash through Arctic ice and see grand<br />

fjords and wonderful wildlife. Your ultimate goal,<br />

often impassable due to pack ice, is the Lincoln<br />

Sea at the top of Greenland. If, after passing the<br />

northernmost town of Qaanaaq through narwhal<br />

territory, you cannot reach your destination then<br />

you will certainly crunch some ice trying! A last<br />

stop to see herds of caribou grazing on tundra is<br />

at Pangnirtung, an Inuit community where you can<br />

also meet local artists, before disembarking in<br />

Iqaluit for your flight back to Ottawa.<br />

triple cabins, all with private bathrooms, opening<br />

external windows, desk and chair. The suites have<br />

a separate sitting room with TV/DVD. Guests<br />

assemble in the dining room for a buffet breakfast,<br />

hearty lunch, afternoon tea and a five course<br />

dinner with daily changing menu. There is a<br />

lounge bar, a heated indoor swimming pool,<br />

exercise room and sauna. You will also find a<br />

theatre auditorium for expert presentations and<br />

a library packed with books relating to the<br />

surrounding area. Last, but not least, are the<br />

zodiac inflatables and helicopter to take you<br />

on daily expeditions ashore.<br />

84<br />

Whale watching in the Arctic<br />

KAPITAN KHLEBNIKOV<br />

Quark’s Kapitan Khlebnikov is a polar ice-breaker,<br />

capable of taking you places most other vessels<br />

cannot reach. Despite these impressive<br />

credentials, you will be travelling in a level of<br />

comfort not found anywhere else in Arctic<br />

cruising. This is ensured by there being 70 crew<br />

to look after 108 passengers. The choice of<br />

accommodation includes simple suites, twin and<br />

Polar bears amongst the sea-ice


Akademik Ioffe<br />

Wild flowers<br />

The Adventure Fleet<br />

As a recent acquisition of Quark, the Adventure<br />

Fleet’s specialist vessels conduct a programme of<br />

cruises that includes Arctic Canada, Greenland and<br />

the Norwegian island of Spitsbergen, focusing on<br />

wildlife, local culture, walking and even specialist<br />

photography cruises. The company prides itself on<br />

its minimal impact on the environment, going<br />

beyond established best practice and setting new<br />

standards for others to follow. Guests spend as<br />

much time off the ship as possible, using a fleet of<br />

sturdy, inflatable zodiacs that are used to take<br />

them on excursions to match their special interests.<br />

Flexibility is the byword here, with specialist –<br />

and often award-winning – guides to focus on<br />

ornithology, geology, history, marine biology, botany,<br />

astronomy, anthropology, hiking and photography.<br />

Sea kayaking spaces are limited and so an interest<br />

must be expressed at the time of booking.<br />

Spitsbergen Explorer<br />

From June to August this 11-day cruise focuses<br />

on the Norwegian Svalbard archipelago, a remote<br />

cluster of islands set high above the Arctic Circle.<br />

The voyage circumnavigates the major island of<br />

Spitsbergen and sails as far north as 81 degrees,<br />

meeting polar bears, walrus and beluga whales.<br />

Glaciers, colossal fjords and ice-capped mountains<br />

rise from the sea whilst the tundra blazes with a<br />

Inuit hunters<br />

plethora of wildflowers. Specific highlights<br />

include the walrus sanctuary of Moffen Island,<br />

Hornsund’s 14 glaciers flowing into the sea, the<br />

birdlife of Fuglesangen cliffs, a 16th century<br />

whaling station, the world’s most northerly post<br />

office and Virgohamna, staging point for many<br />

expeditions to the North Pole by explorers<br />

including Roald Amundsen.<br />

Northwest Passage Cruise<br />

This journey aims, over 13 days, to follow the<br />

journey completed by Roald Amundsen, who first<br />

successfully navigated the Northwest Passage in<br />

1905. Along a route that is littered with evidence<br />

of ill-fated expeditions your journey will visit Inuit<br />

communities and provide wonderful wildlife<br />

viewing. South of Resolute, Peel Sound is a likely<br />

place to find the narwhal and beluga, while King<br />

William Island, is where Franklin died after his<br />

ships Erebus and Terror became stuck in pack ice.<br />

The Inuit community of Cambridge Bay, where<br />

Amundsen over-wintered is a great area for<br />

sighting polar bears. Although it is said that the<br />

fastest way through ice is around it, the captain<br />

will ensure that you experience the thrill of icebreaking<br />

before heading back to Cambridge Bay.<br />

AKADEMIK IOFFE<br />

Built in Scandinavia in the late 1980s by the Russian<br />

Academy of Science, the 117 metre Akademik<br />

Ioffe is exceptionally well prepared for cruising in<br />

the Arctic. She has a crew of 53 and can take up<br />

to 110 guests. All the simple but tastefully furnished<br />

cabins have an outside view through porthole or<br />

window and have either shared or en suite<br />

facilities. There is a lounge/bar, restaurant, gym,<br />

sauna, swimming pool, and a theatre-style<br />

presentation room where the ships resident<br />

experts give lectures. The ‘open bridge’ policy<br />

means passengers can, at any time, visit the bridge<br />

to enjoy the views and glean insights from the<br />

officers of the watch. The ship carries inflatable<br />

zodiacs for viewing wildlife and excursions ashore,<br />

as well as a small number of sea kayaks.<br />

Ringed plover<br />

Arctic Expedition Cruising<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

85


Nunavut<br />

Nunavut is an immense territory of<br />

tundra, plateaux and mountains that<br />

includes the Arctic archipelago: a hidden<br />

world until the advent of air travel. This<br />

beautiful land is Canada’s newest territory,<br />

splitting from the Northwest Territories in<br />

1999 as a self-ruling Inuit community. The<br />

territory covers about one fifth of Canada’s<br />

land mass and stretches from Hudson Bay<br />

in the south to the Arctic islands in the north.<br />

The famed Northwest Passage wends its<br />

way through the northern islands and<br />

consequently this was the theatre for many<br />

historic Arctic voyages. Nunavut, meaning<br />

“our land” in the Inuktitut language, is<br />

home to 28 Inuit communities, of which the<br />

largest, with a population of 6,500, is Iqaluit.<br />

Accessible only by air and sea, this region is<br />

rich with the fascinating culture of the Inuit<br />

communities, the flowers of the arctic tundra<br />

and the dancing celestial phenomenon of<br />

the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights.<br />

A plethora of wildlife inhabits these desolate<br />

lands, with polar bears, arctic foxes, whales,<br />

narwhals, walrus, musk oxen and herds of<br />

caribou in abundance. Bathed through the<br />

summer, by the light of a midnight sun,<br />

Nunavut is a unique blend of culture,<br />

wilderness and wildlife.<br />

86


Arctic<br />

Ocean<br />

Ellesmere<br />

Island<br />

Beaufort<br />

Sea<br />

Magnetic<br />

North Pole<br />

Bathurst Inlet Lodge<br />

BATHURST INLET LODGE<br />

On the northernmost edges of the North<br />

American continent, Bathurst Inlet is home to<br />

the Kingaunmiut Inuit, a remote community who<br />

first opened their doors in 1969 to visitors,<br />

introducing their world of cliffs, waterfalls, deep<br />

gorges and flower-covered tundra. The lodge is<br />

a partnership between the Inuit and Glen and<br />

Trish Warner who came to know the extreme<br />

north during their 25 years serving in the Royal<br />

Canadian Mounted Police. The property is<br />

open to guests for only five weeks a year from<br />

the end of June to early August and can<br />

accommodate just 20 visitors in simple but<br />

comfortable accommodation for a week at a<br />

time. Having arrived by float-plane from<br />

Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories, guests<br />

stay at the lodge which is an old Hudson Bay<br />

Company trading post. A cooked breakfast and<br />

evening buffet meal is served in the main lodge<br />

building, while packed lunches are provided for<br />

picnics in breathtaking settings. Bedrooms are<br />

comfortable and in most cases bathrooms are<br />

shared. The thing that makes Bathurst Inlet Lodge<br />

really special is the opportunity to interact with<br />

the Inuit guides on their terms, sharing their<br />

knowledge and terrain. This is borne out by the<br />

fact that about 25% of their guests are repeat<br />

customers: not bad for a destination quite<br />

literally at the end of the earth.<br />

0 350 miles<br />

0 563 kilometres<br />

Cambridge Bay<br />

Bathurst<br />

Inlet<br />

Activities at Bathurst<br />

Inlet Lodge<br />

Victoria<br />

Island<br />

Elu<br />

Inlet<br />

NUNAVUT<br />

Guided exploration takes place by a stable<br />

pontoon boat that is used for viewing wildlife<br />

and for transporting guests to other parts of the<br />

inlet for independent hikes. Wildlife to look out<br />

for includes grizzly bears, musk oxen, lemmings,<br />

caribou and a terrific variety of birdlife. There are<br />

also ancient archaeological remains in the region.<br />

Resolute<br />

King<br />

William<br />

Island<br />

Somerset<br />

Island<br />

Devon<br />

Island<br />

Lancaster Sound<br />

Igloolik<br />

Baffin Island<br />

Cape Dorset<br />

Davis Strait<br />

IQALUIT<br />

A highlight of each week’s stay is the cultural<br />

evening in which the entire community takes part,<br />

including the children who model traditional<br />

clothing and a grandfather who demonstrates<br />

how hunting tools were used. Guests are invited<br />

to reciprocate by telling a story, reciting a poem,<br />

dancing or even performing a magic trick. This<br />

cross-cultural sharing epitomises what makes a<br />

stay at Bathurst Inlet Lodge such a wonderful<br />

eco-tourism experience.<br />

Doris Kingnektak<br />

Nunavut: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Bathurst Inlet<br />

87


Arctic Watch Lodge<br />

88<br />

ARCTIC WATCH LODGE<br />

At the northern tip of Nunavut’s Somerset<br />

Island, and already well north of the continental<br />

mainland, Arctic Watch Lodge overlooks the<br />

fabled Northwest Passage (Lancaster Sound).<br />

Renowned polar trekker Richard Webber and<br />

his wife Josée established this lodge in 2000 on<br />

the site of a former whaling station. Along with<br />

their children, Tessum and Nansen, they have an<br />

irrepressible enthusiasm for the region and have<br />

created an Arctic visitor’s dream destination for<br />

July and August. The lodge offers comfortable<br />

accommodation, safely guided and well<br />

researched trips amongst amazing scenery,<br />

abundant wildlife and ancient historical sites. From<br />

the air the lodge resembles a futuristic outpost on<br />

a distant planet – a well ordered collection of<br />

pristine white domed structures, including a<br />

central lodge and 16 permanent cabins that<br />

contain duvet-covered beds and running-water<br />

toilets. The main lodge houses a kitchen, dining<br />

room, lounge, audio visual room and lecture<br />

theatre. Food is fresh and high quality, arriving<br />

with each plane. Lancaster Sound has a large<br />

polar bear population and is home to walrus,<br />

seals and narwhals. The land has musk oxen,<br />

Peary caribou, arctic fox and many birds, including<br />

the peregrine falcon and snowy owl. There is<br />

great char fishing and a number of exceptionally<br />

well preserved Thule (ancient Inuit) and early<br />

European archaeological sites in the area.<br />

Arctic Watch Lodge<br />

Activities at Arctic<br />

Watch Lodge<br />

Activities at Arctic Watch Lodge are tailored to the<br />

ability and personal interest of the guests and can<br />

include hiking, raft float trips, nature observation<br />

walks, photography excursions, exposure to Inuit<br />

culture and exploration by 4WD, quad bikes or<br />

even light aircraft. The energetic can try the<br />

world’s most northern mountain biking and sea<br />

kayak expeditions. The lodge is child friendly and<br />

a typical day’s programme for younger guests<br />

would included short walks, picnics and searches<br />

for lemmings. The warm, shallow waters of<br />

Cunningham Inlet are the summer home to 2,000<br />

beluga whales and guests at the lodge can wander<br />

along the shoreline within metres of these<br />

inquisitive mammals.<br />

ELU INLET LODGE<br />

Elu Inlet Lodge is an eco-lodge at the mouth of<br />

the Itibiak River, set amongst barren tundra, lakes,<br />

waterways and great rock monoliths. The area<br />

has been used extensively by the Inuit way back<br />

into the mists of time due to its extremely rich<br />

natural resources that include abundant fish,<br />

musk oxen and massive herds of caribou. The<br />

local Inuit have a majority interest in this lodge<br />

that has been operating as an eco-lodge since<br />

1999, welcoming summer guests who arrive by<br />

float-plane from Cambridge Bay 69 kilometres to<br />

the north. With a central lodge building and three<br />

separate sleeping cabins housing up to 12 guests,<br />

this is a small and intimate property. Facilities<br />

are simple and clean with luxuries such as the<br />

outdoor hot-tub helping you unwind after an<br />

energetic day with your Inuit guides.<br />

Elu Inlet Lodge


Exploring at Arctic Watch Lodge<br />

Beluga whales<br />

Drying salmon<br />

Husky<br />

Activities at Elu Inlet Lodge<br />

The region around Elu Inlet Lodge is a pristine,<br />

unexplored wilderness and it is this environment<br />

that you can explore by kayak, foot and boat.<br />

The brief but intense Arctic summer transforms<br />

the tundra, with meadows of wild flowers: a<br />

naturalist’s paradise that is shared with caribou,<br />

musk oxen and a massive variety of birdlife. There<br />

is always the chance of sighting larger predators,<br />

such as wolverines, wolves or grizzly bears.<br />

Culturally, this region is rich in Inuit archaeological<br />

sites, giving visitors a chance to stand at ancient<br />

stone fox traps or fire rings and look out over the<br />

same vistas as Inuit hunters and their families have<br />

for hundreds and even thousands of years.<br />

Inuit ladies taking a stroll<br />

Igloolik<br />

Set on a small island northwest of Baffin Island,<br />

the town of Igloolik is one of Canada’s oldest<br />

and most traditional Inuit communities. It has<br />

fiercely resisted many of the changes of the<br />

modern age with television only permitted in<br />

1980 and there are few other places where you’ll<br />

catch so clear a sense of the Inuit’s indomitable<br />

nature. Whales, walrus and seals share this<br />

remote and often ice-bound settlement and life<br />

still revolves around hunting marine mammals<br />

along the water’s edge and amongst the ice floes<br />

of the surrounding seas.<br />

Walrus Photography<br />

in Arctic Igloolik<br />

This week long trip operates for just one week in<br />

July: a truly unique experience. Guests are hosted<br />

by a local Inuit family and stay in a rustic camp<br />

near the water’s edge. You will spend most of<br />

your days on a boat floating amongst the ice floes<br />

with the chance to see a magnificent bowhead<br />

whale rise amidst colonies of walrus. Bowhead<br />

whales can grow up to 18 metres in length and<br />

have been known to swim both around and<br />

under boats, a captivating and also daunting<br />

experience. Walrus, often weighing more than a<br />

tonne, are found on the pack ice in large numbers<br />

and the boat can get to within about 30 metres<br />

of them. Spending much of your days afloat gives<br />

you the chance to take some unique photographs<br />

of the wildlife, and as the tundra springs to life<br />

you’ll also have the chance to hike around the<br />

camp, learning more about the area’s birdlife,<br />

flowers and culture.<br />

Nunavut: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Walrus at Igloolik<br />

89


The Northwest Territories<br />

Stretching from the 60th parallel up to the<br />

Beaufort Sea in the north, the Northwest<br />

Territories offer the adventurous traveller a<br />

deeply rewarding experience. The capital city,<br />

Yellowknife, is situated on the Great Slave<br />

Lake, at the heart of Canada’s diamond<br />

mines. To the north, across a landscape of lakes<br />

and stunted forests, lies the Great Bear Lake<br />

whilst westwards the Mackenzie Mountains<br />

form a natural border with the Yukon.<br />

Perhaps the greatest jewel is Nahanni<br />

National Park, where the challenging rapids<br />

of the South Nahanni River have dug gorges<br />

deeper than the Grand Canyon and created<br />

waterfalls twice as high as Niagara Falls<br />

through a wild and dramatic landscape:<br />

surely one of the finest wilderness areas in<br />

North America. The territory has excellent,<br />

accessible wildlife viewing that includes herds<br />

of wild bison in Wood Buffalo National Park<br />

and caribou, moose and bears as well as<br />

nights that dance with the lights of the Aurora<br />

Borealis. Running northwards flows the<br />

mighty Mackenzie River, in whose delta lies<br />

the settlement of Inuvik which is home to the<br />

famous igloo church, July’s Great Northern<br />

(Inuit) Arts Festival and the town that marks<br />

the end of the epic Dempster Highway.<br />

90


Arctic<br />

Ocean<br />

Prince<br />

Patrick<br />

Island<br />

Banks<br />

Island<br />

Beaufort Sea<br />

Victoria<br />

Island<br />

Aurora Borealis<br />

Yellowknife<br />

Named after the copper blades used by the<br />

native Tetsot’ine people, Yellowknife occupies a<br />

dramatic site on the northern edge of the Great<br />

Slave Lake. Gold was discovered here in 1934,<br />

at just the same time as bush planes made this<br />

remote region accessible. In 1967 the city became<br />

the capital of the Northwest Territories and now,<br />

diamond mining has taken over as the mainstay of<br />

the booming economy. The Old Town’s winding<br />

streets are lined with houses dating back to the<br />

1930s and 1940s whilst the Woodyard area is<br />

known for eccentric cabins and log dwellings: the<br />

most modest are on Ragged Ass Road, named<br />

after the early prospectors whose luck had run<br />

badly. The city is dwarfed by the Great Slave Lake;<br />

the size of a sea with countless uncharted bays<br />

hugged by seemingly endless wilderness areas.<br />

YUKON<br />

Inuvik<br />

Tuktoyaktuk<br />

A R C T I C C I R C<br />

L E<br />

Mackenzie River<br />

Nahanni<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

BRITISH COLUMBIA<br />

Great<br />

Bear<br />

Lake<br />

NORTHWEST TERRITORIES<br />

Fort Simpson<br />

Hay River<br />

YELLOWKNIFE<br />

Great<br />

Slave<br />

Lake<br />

ALBERTA<br />

Wood Buffalo<br />

National Park<br />

Fort Smith<br />

0 125 miles<br />

0 201 kilometres<br />

NUNAVUT<br />

SASKATCHEWAN<br />

EXPLORER HOTEL, YELLOWKNIFE<br />

Modern and recently renovated, the Explorer<br />

Hotel has been a prominent local landmark for<br />

over 30 years, within easy strolling distance of<br />

Back Bay and Old Town. With 187 rooms this is<br />

the largest hotel in the Northwest Territories and<br />

has enjoyed a celebrated past: in the 1970s it<br />

was home to the Legislative Assembly of the<br />

Northwest Territories and has played host to such<br />

prominent guests as Her Majesty the Queen and<br />

Prince Phillip. There is an excellent grill and lounge<br />

offering a variety of local and contemporary cuisine.<br />

Explorer Hotel<br />

BLACHFORD LAKE LODGE,<br />

BLACHFORD LAKE<br />

Located near the Great Slave Lake, the lodge is<br />

reached by an exhilarating twenty minute bush<br />

plane flight from Yellowknife. The main lodge<br />

offers comfortable rooms with en suite bathrooms,<br />

lounge with telescope, library, and a dining room<br />

where sumptuous meals are served. The clean air<br />

and peace of the wilderness are conducive to<br />

adventure: in the summer activities include fishing,<br />

hiking, canoeing, kayaking and mountain biking,<br />

while the deep snows of winter bring dog-sledding,<br />

ice-fishing, tobogganing on seal skins and skating.<br />

Blachford’s native Dene cultural experience<br />

continues year round, with traditional hand games,<br />

drumming, and the story of the Dogrib people.<br />

Blachford Lake Lodge<br />

The Northwest Territories: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Yellowknife<br />

91


Virginia Falls, Nahanni National Park<br />

92<br />

Nahanni National Park<br />

With gorges deeper than the Grand Canyon and<br />

waterfalls twice the height of Niagara, the vast<br />

Nahanni National Park is one of the finest national<br />

parks in North America and one of the world’s<br />

most rugged wilderness areas. The ultimate thrill<br />

for canoeists is to ride the untamed South<br />

Nahanni River as it rushes between the towering<br />

peaks of the Mackenzie Mountains, but even the<br />

bravest wouldn’t attempt to canoe the stunning<br />

Virginia Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.<br />

There are no roads in this spectacular park so<br />

sightseeing is generally by float-plane, a thrilling<br />

way to explore this remote, and otherwise largely<br />

inaccessible, wilderness.<br />

Little Doc Lake, Nahanni National Park<br />

Nahanni by Float-plane<br />

This exciting Cessna 206 float-plane trip leaves<br />

Fort Simpson and flies into the heart of Nahanni<br />

National Park. The aircraft, seating a maximum<br />

of four passengers, takes you through the first,<br />

second and third canyons of the South Nahanni<br />

River to land at the top of Virginia Falls, as your<br />

pilot shares the legends associated with Deadmen<br />

Valley, Headless Range, Funeral Range, Death<br />

Lake and Crash Lake. At Virginia Falls you can<br />

walk along the top of the falls to a perfect photo<br />

location or follow the trail to the bottom of the<br />

falls to experience the force of this natural<br />

wonder. On the return trip you fly over the<br />

Nahanni Plateau and Ram River canyons to make<br />

a short stop at Little Doctor Lake and Nahanni<br />

Mountain Lodge, with the chance to relax on the<br />

sand beach, swim in the lake or photograph the<br />

scenery, birds and wildlife.<br />

BANNOCKLAND B&B,<br />

FORT SIMPSON<br />

Susan and Glen Sibbeston run their charming bed<br />

and breakfast with a great degree of professionalism<br />

and extend a warm welcome to all their guests.<br />

Light, modern and scrupulously clean, the property<br />

has five guest bedrooms with private bathrooms<br />

and a Great Room which has delightful views over<br />

the confluence of the rivers. The town of Fort<br />

Simpson is just five minutes drive away.<br />

Bannockland B&B<br />

Fort Simpson<br />

Located in the southwest corner of the territory,<br />

Fort Simpson lies at the confluence of two great<br />

rivers, the Mackenzie and the Liard. An important<br />

gathering place for centuries, the Dene Nation<br />

calls the region ‘Liidli Kue’, meaning ‘the place<br />

where the rivers come together’. The town was<br />

established in 1803 as a fur trading post called<br />

‘Fort of the Forks’, when it became a significant<br />

transport hub for river traffic, and even now it<br />

is an ideal base for exploring nearby Nahanni<br />

National Park. Historic McPherson House and<br />

the cabin of eccentric trapper Albert Faille are<br />

also worth a visit.


The Great<br />

Northern Adventure<br />

Combine some of the Northwest Territories’<br />

most spectacular wilderness sights on this<br />

northern adventure.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Yellowknife with the<br />

remainder of the day free to enjoy<br />

the town.<br />

Your route today takes you south<br />

to the small town of Hay River on<br />

the southern shore of the Great<br />

Slave Lake.<br />

Local transport<br />

The Ram Plateau, Nahanni National Park<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Continue your drive to Fort Smith<br />

for a three night stay. This former<br />

territorial capital is famous for being<br />

home to the most northern colony<br />

of pelicans in the world.<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend a full day exploring Wood<br />

Buffalo National Park, the home<br />

of the last great free-roaming<br />

buffalo herds.<br />

Day 5<br />

Enjoy a further full day in Wood<br />

Buffalo National Park, a World<br />

Heritage Site, and home to the<br />

rare whooping cranes.<br />

Day 6<br />

Depart Fort Smith and return to<br />

Hay River for an overnight stay.<br />

Day 7<br />

Your route takes you north back<br />

to Yellowknife where your tour<br />

ends upon arrival.<br />

Salt plains, Wood Buffalo National Park<br />

Wood Buffalo National Park<br />

Wood Buffalo, covering almost 45,000 square<br />

kilometres, is the largest national park in Canada<br />

and continues across the border into Alberta.<br />

The park was established in 1922 to protect the<br />

world’s largest free-roaming herd of bison whose<br />

population had dramatically decreased from an<br />

estimated 40 million in 1830 to just over 1,000<br />

in 1900. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site,<br />

the park continues the long-standing tradition of<br />

native subsistence use by people who continue<br />

to live, hunt, trap and fish within its boundaries.<br />

The park’s diverse ecosystems support and<br />

protect many unique natural resources, including<br />

rare species like the whooping crane and other<br />

summer visitors such as bald eagles and peregrine<br />

falcons. This is a land of boreal forest, swamps,<br />

salt plains, streams and rivers: ideal habitats for<br />

moose, caribou, bears, lynx and wolves.<br />

MV NORWETA<br />

The MV Norweta is a one-of-a-kind cruise ship that<br />

sails from Hay River, on the south shore of the Great<br />

Slave Lake, to Inuvik at the northern end of the<br />

Mackenzie River: a distance of more than 1600<br />

kilometres. This relaxing voyage encapsulates the<br />

beauty and remoteness of the Deh Cho, or Big<br />

River, visiting local Dene communities and joining in<br />

with their cultural events. Back on board a family<br />

atmosphere soon develops as guests, captain and crew<br />

dine together and plan each day. Shore excursions<br />

provide daily opportunities to make landfall on beaches<br />

where few have gone before to explore the history,<br />

archaeology, flora and fauna of this largely untouched<br />

region. As with many marine adventures, sleeping<br />

accommodation in the ten cabins is compact, but the<br />

ship has a large lounge, sundeck, and dining room.<br />

A combination of the scenic beauty of the north and<br />

an abundance of native culture and hospitality will<br />

ensure this is an adventure that will never be forgotten.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

It is highly recommended that you extend this trip<br />

to include a stay in Fort Simpson to discover the<br />

awe-inspiring beauty of Nahanni National Park.<br />

The highlights of the park are best seen on a light<br />

aircraft flight – please see the Nahanni by Float-plane<br />

details on page 92 for further information.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Bison in Wood Buffalo National Park<br />

The Northwest Territories: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Welcome to the Arctic Circle<br />

MV Norweta<br />

93


The Yukon<br />

The Yukon is a magical land which<br />

captivates and charms every sense.<br />

Predominantly mountain wilderness, the<br />

grandeur of the landscape defies description:<br />

Kluane National Park is home to the highest<br />

mountains in Canada, while the historic<br />

Chilkoot Trail wends its way from Skagway<br />

through seemingly impenetrable mountains to<br />

reach the iridescent blue lakes of the interior.<br />

The unsealed Dempster Highway is the only<br />

road in Canada to cross the Arctic Circle as it<br />

heads towards Inuvik and the Beaufort Sea.<br />

In this wild, unspoilt frontier, history seems<br />

almost tangible with constant reminders of<br />

the Klondike gold rush. The earthen streets<br />

and wooden buildings of Dawson City evoke<br />

memories of many colourful characters and<br />

their eccentric traditions live on, with many of<br />

today’s residents still earning their inclusion in<br />

the ‘colourful 5%’. The land immortalised in<br />

the poetry of Robert Service and Jack London<br />

retains its wild appeal: even now you can<br />

pan a few specks of gold from Yukon rivers.<br />

The capital, Whitehorse, is a busy small town<br />

but elsewhere the population is hugely<br />

outnumbered by the wildlife. From late<br />

August onwards the Aurora Borealis is<br />

visible even from as far south as Whitehorse,<br />

casting its magical spell over Yukon’s<br />

natural wonders.<br />

94


Beaufort Sea<br />

0 90 miles<br />

0 145 kilometres<br />

SS Klondike, Whitehorse<br />

ALASKA<br />

Old Crow<br />

Whitehorse<br />

A R C T I C C I R C L E<br />

Named after the rapids on the Yukon River that<br />

reminded gold prospectors of the ‘flowing manes<br />

of albino Appaloosas’, Whitehorse was built by<br />

prospectors who flooded into the region at the<br />

height of the Klondike gold rush. This is where<br />

they set up camp after surviving the arduous<br />

Chilkoot Trail from Skagway and before<br />

negotiating the perilous waters of the Yukon<br />

River and Miles Canyon that still blocked their<br />

route to the goldfields. Today Whitehorse is an<br />

easier place to reach and, with 23,000 inhabitants,<br />

is by far the largest town in the Yukon. Urban<br />

highlights include tours of the SS Klondike, one<br />

of only two surviving paddle steamers, Old Log<br />

Church Museum, the MacBride Museum and the<br />

Yukon Brewing Company. The area’s mineral<br />

wealth might be exhausted, but the surrounding<br />

mountain wilderness, speckled with tranquil lakes,<br />

is beautiful and wholly unspoiled: it will make you<br />

want to put on your boots and explore.<br />

Beaver<br />

Creek<br />

St Elias<br />

Mountains<br />

Dempster<br />

Highway<br />

Dawson City<br />

Yukon River<br />

Tincup<br />

Lake<br />

Haines<br />

Junction<br />

Kluane<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Mayo<br />

Keno<br />

YUKON<br />

WHITEHORSE<br />

Skagway<br />

Marsh Lake<br />

Carcross<br />

Ross River<br />

BRITISH COLUMBIA<br />

NORTHWEST TERRITORIES<br />

Watson Lake<br />

HIGH COUNTRY INN, WHITEHORSE<br />

One of Whitehorse’s greatest attractions is its<br />

historic waterfront and nearby you’ll find the<br />

High Country Inn. Offering the easiest access of<br />

any hotel in town, it is locally owned and extends<br />

a warm and friendly welcome. The rustic décor<br />

of the Yukon Mining Company Saloon creates a<br />

warm ambience where you can try northern<br />

cuisine and even pan for gold. With a 13 metre<br />

high wooden mountie guarding the entrance<br />

there is an air of eccentricity. Outside, the largest<br />

heated deck in town is the perfect spot to enjoy<br />

a locally-produced beer with the residents, or<br />

watch, on long summer evenings from late<br />

August onwards, as the Northern Lights play<br />

across the sky.<br />

Sunset canoeing<br />

Yukon fishing<br />

INN ON THE LAKE, MARSH LAKE<br />

Reached by a scenic 40 minute drive south of<br />

Whitehorse, the Inn on the Lake has been<br />

beautifully constructed from logs to provide 16<br />

comfortably furnished rooms and suites. The inn<br />

enjoys a magnificent location overlooking Marsh<br />

Lake in the heart of pristine countryside, at its<br />

best when seen from the spacious deck. Many<br />

guests come here from late August onwards to<br />

see the Aurora Borealis. The library and great<br />

room are perfect places to relax whilst the inn<br />

also boasts solariums, a hot tub, sauna and a<br />

well-appointed fitness centre. The inn’s sister<br />

property, the eight bedroom Inn on the River,<br />

is a delightful alternative.<br />

TINCUP WILDERNESS LODGE,<br />

ST ELIAS MOUNTAINS<br />

Tincup Wilderness Lodge is a luxury fly-in lodge<br />

nestled at the foot of Yukon’s St. Elias Mountains,<br />

home to some of the tallest peaks and most<br />

breathtaking glaciers in North America. This<br />

dramatic landscape offers guests a huge variety of<br />

activities such as exceptional fishing, especially for<br />

lake trout and arctic grayling, guided hikes, canoeing<br />

and kayaking. Each guest cabin has a wood-burning<br />

stove, private bathroom and a covered veranda<br />

with views over the crystal blue waters of Tincup<br />

Lake. José, your hostess, is also a renowned chef so<br />

meals here are a perpetual delight and can be<br />

followed by a sauna or a soak in the hot tub, with<br />

the chance to listen to the tales of old recounted<br />

by a local First Nations storyteller.<br />

Inn on the Lake<br />

The Yukon: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

95


96<br />

Dawson City<br />

Dawson City<br />

Few places in Canada evoke such a strong sense<br />

of history as Dawson City, now registered as a<br />

National Historic Site. For a few short years from<br />

1896 Dawson City had the richest gold mine of<br />

all time, and was at the heart of the Klondike gold<br />

rush. Nearly 100,000 people struggled across<br />

almost impenetrable mountains and huge tracts<br />

of wilderness to seek their fortunes. Today the<br />

town’s wooden boardwalks, historic saloons, falsefronted<br />

wooden houses and rutted dirt streets<br />

retain that frontier atmosphere. The ghosts of<br />

legendary characters such as Skookum Jim, Tagish<br />

Charley and Soapy Smith echo throughout the<br />

poetry of Robert Service and Jack London and can<br />

still be felt in this perfectly-preserved time-warp<br />

gem. There are many places to visit here, including<br />

the Palace Grand Theatre, Diamond Tooth<br />

Silver Creek<br />

Gertie’s Gambling House, the Robert Service and<br />

Jack London cabins and the Dawson City Museum.<br />

Nearby are the famous goldfields of Bonanza<br />

Creek and the Klondike River where it is<br />

possible to tour Dredge No. 4 or try panning<br />

for gold yourself.<br />

BOMBAY PEGGY’S, DAWSON CITY<br />

Still bearing the name of its former madame, this<br />

recently restored gold rush-era brothel has an<br />

intriguing history, having also served as a mining<br />

company’s headquarters, a family home, boarding<br />

house and an art gallery. Now an historic inn and<br />

pub, Bombay Peggy’s has nine uniquely and<br />

exuberantly decorated rooms, furnished with<br />

antiques and many with claw-foot baths. With its<br />

colourful past it is hard to imagine a better place<br />

to appreciate the living history of the Klondike’s<br />

gold rush years.<br />

No. 4 Gold Dredge<br />

Ten miles from Dawson City, No. 4 Dredge is the<br />

biggest wooden-hull, bucket-line gold dredge in<br />

North America, resting on Claim No. 17BD on one<br />

of the Klondike’s richest gold rivers, Bonanza Creek.<br />

Constructed in 1912 and used right up until 1966,<br />

this extraordinary piece of industrial history would<br />

dig up as much as 25kg of gold per day. A visit here<br />

provides a fascinating insight into the sheer scale of<br />

gold mining in the Klondike’s heyday.<br />

Palace Grand Theatre, Dawson City<br />

Kluane National Park<br />

Established in 1972, this gem of a park covers<br />

21,980 square kilometres in the southwest corner<br />

of the Yukon. It is a land of precipitous<br />

mountains, the world’s largest non-polar icefields<br />

and lush valleys where Dall’s sheep, grizzly bears,<br />

moose, lynx, wolves, and wolverines thrive, under<br />

a sky filled with golden and bald eagles, Arctic<br />

terns and peregrine falcons. The park is home to<br />

Mount Logan (5959m), Canada’s highest peak,<br />

and glaciers more than one and a half kilometres<br />

deep. The icefields are largely inaccessible but the<br />

green valleys offer a variety of walking trails for<br />

experienced hikers. Stunning Kluane Lake is much<br />

more accessible, lying along the edge of the<br />

Alaska Highway just outside the park, and is<br />

framed by snow-capped mountains whose<br />

glaciers feed its ice-blue waters.


Yukon Gems<br />

This tour packs in all the highlights of the Yukon<br />

but also includes visits to the delightful small<br />

settlements of Mayo and Keno to offer a true<br />

flavour of the territory’s distinctive character.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Whitehorse and spend<br />

the day exploring Yukon’s capital.<br />

Drive north along the Klondike<br />

Highway to Mayo, passing through<br />

the tiny settlements of Minto and<br />

Pelly Crossing en route.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Explore the fascinating small former<br />

mining towns of Mayo and Keno<br />

before continuing your journey<br />

north to Dawson City.<br />

Glacier in Kluane National Park<br />

Diamond Tooth Gerties Girls<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend a whole day exploring the<br />

historic town of Dawson City.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive over the lovely Top of the<br />

World Highway into Alaska. From<br />

Tok travel back into Canada for a<br />

stay at Beaver Creek.<br />

Day 6<br />

Pass Kluane National Park en route<br />

to Haines Junction.<br />

Day 7<br />

A full day at leisure to experience all<br />

that Kluane National Park has to offer.<br />

Day 8<br />

Head south to the small scenic<br />

settlement of Haines in Alaska.<br />

Lake Laberge Lodge<br />

The Dempster Highway<br />

Begun in 1959 to service the northern oilfields,<br />

the Dempster Highway is the only road in Canada<br />

to cross the Arctic Circle. Un-sealed, it leads<br />

from Dawson City to Inuvik in the Northwest<br />

Territories, cutting through an ever-changing<br />

landscape of superb mountain scenery and across<br />

miles of tundra, flecked with flowers in season.<br />

There’s only one place on the road to break the<br />

741 kilometre journey, and that’s at Eagle Plains,<br />

accentuating the experience of driving through an<br />

unparalleled wilderness of unprecedented scale.<br />

Stay two nights in the small town of Inuvik for<br />

the chance to take a light aircraft flight further on<br />

to the remote Inuit community of Tuktoyaktuk<br />

on the Beaufort Sea.<br />

The Shakat, Great River Journey<br />

GREAT RIVER JOURNEY<br />

The Great River Journey is a unique voyage of<br />

discovery, offering an insight into the era of the<br />

Klondike gold rush and paddle steamers, unfolding<br />

over eight days and 600 kilometres on a journey<br />

north along the Yukon River. <strong>Travel</strong>ling from<br />

Whitehorse to Dawson City this wilderness<br />

adventure passes through the traditional lands of<br />

four First Nations tribal groups, whose guides will<br />

give you unparalleled access to cultural activities,<br />

sites and people. The group size is limited to a<br />

maximum of ten passengers, allowing you to<br />

make the most of any special interests such as<br />

wildlife viewing, bird watching, hiking, canoeing<br />

and interpretive programmes this cruise allows.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> is by river boat with a pilot and an<br />

experienced guide and frequent landings are<br />

made to explore the wilderness and historic sites.<br />

Accommodation is in stylish and comfortable<br />

lodges with two-night stays at both Lake Laberge<br />

and Homestead Lodge, and a one night stay at<br />

Wilderness Outpost. Highlights include a thrilling<br />

float-plane flight to explore the historic settlement<br />

of Fort Selkirk, a visit to see the abandoned<br />

steamships at Hootalinqua and a two-night stay<br />

in historic Dawson City at the end of the trip.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Explore the small town of Haines<br />

set between the Chilkoot and<br />

Chilkat mountains.<br />

Board the Alaska Marine Highway<br />

Service ferry to Skagway.<br />

Drive north through stunning<br />

mountain passes to Inn on the Lake<br />

in Yukon’s lakes district.<br />

Spend a full day relaxing at Inn on<br />

the Lake.<br />

Today it is a short drive back to<br />

Whitehorse where there is plenty of<br />

time to browse the shops or enjoy<br />

some of the many sights.<br />

Return your hire car in Whitehorse<br />

at the end of your tour.<br />

EXTENSIONS<br />

You may wish to extend your stay with an<br />

adventurous drive along the Dempster Highway<br />

to Inuvik in the Northwest Territories. You need<br />

to allow at least four additional nights to include<br />

this, departing from, and returning to, Dawson<br />

City. For further suggestions about travelling<br />

around the Northwest Territories, please see<br />

pages 90 to 93.<br />

The Yukon: Canada<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

An abandoned steamship at Hootalinqua<br />

97


Alaska<br />

Alaska is a land of innumerable glaciers,<br />

raging rivers, towering mountains,<br />

dense forests, endless tundra, countless islands<br />

and great tracts of Arctic coast. But it is so<br />

much more than this. It is a land of summer<br />

festivals, diverse cultural influences and<br />

fascinating history and architecture.<br />

Where else will you find Russian Orthodox<br />

churches rubbing shoulders with brightlycoloured<br />

Norwegian houses and 19th century<br />

gold rush towns The USA’s largest state,<br />

it has a population of 627,000, greatly<br />

outnumbered by the caribou. Between May<br />

and September, visitors can join Alaskans in<br />

Petersburg’s ‘Little Norway Festival’ or<br />

Kodiak Island’s ‘Crab Festival’ or even the<br />

‘Nalukataq Festival’ on Barrow’s Arctic shores.<br />

Alaska offers some of the best bear watching in<br />

the world, while whale watching and fishing<br />

are often without peer. The road system<br />

seamlessly links to Canada’s Yukon and lends<br />

itself to wonderful circular drives through<br />

awe-inspiring scenery. Many remote towns,<br />

villages and islands can often only be reached<br />

by ferry or cruise ship, giving them a mystique<br />

all of their own. The sheer scale of the<br />

landscape is rarely equalled anywhere in the<br />

world, but it is the friendliness of the Alaskans<br />

that makes a visit here a truly never to be<br />

forgotten experience.<br />

98


St Lawrence<br />

Island<br />

Nunivak<br />

Island<br />

St Paul Island<br />

Pribilof<br />

Islands<br />

Bering Sea<br />

Dutch<br />

Harbour<br />

Little<br />

Diomede<br />

Aleutian Islands<br />

Chukchi<br />

Sea<br />

A R C T I C C<br />

Teller<br />

Nome<br />

I R C L E<br />

Taylor<br />

Council<br />

ALASKA<br />

Dillingham<br />

King<br />

Salmon<br />

Katmai<br />

National Park<br />

& Preserve<br />

Beaufort Sea<br />

Kantishna<br />

Talkeetna<br />

Anchorage<br />

Kenai<br />

Homer<br />

Hallo<br />

Bay<br />

Kodiak<br />

Barrow<br />

Anaktuvuk<br />

Pass<br />

Denali National<br />

Park & Preserve<br />

Kodiak Island<br />

Prudhoe Bay<br />

Fairbanks<br />

Tok<br />

Glenallen<br />

Whittier<br />

Valdez McCarthy<br />

Seward<br />

Kenai<br />

Fjords<br />

National<br />

Park<br />

Prince<br />

William<br />

Sound<br />

Gulf of<br />

Alaska<br />

Pacific Ocean<br />

YUKON<br />

Chicken<br />

Wrangell St Elias<br />

National Park<br />

& Preserve<br />

Glacier Bay<br />

National Park<br />

& Preserve<br />

Haines<br />

Sitka<br />

Whitehorse<br />

Skagway<br />

JUNEAU<br />

Admiralty<br />

Island<br />

Ketchikan<br />

Petersburg<br />

Wrangell<br />

Misty Fjords<br />

National<br />

Monument<br />

Panning for gold<br />

0 180 miles<br />

0 290 kilometres<br />

<strong>Audley</strong> in Alaska<br />

The majority of visitors to Alaska will see it from<br />

the decks of one of the huge cruise ships that<br />

head up its western coast. We prefer a more<br />

intimate view of this state and have researched<br />

a host of accommodation options and<br />

experiences that enable you to explore this<br />

remarkable northern state in detail. Due to the<br />

remoteness and limited size of most communities,<br />

accommodation choices can be limited. However<br />

we have researched some delightful lodges, bed<br />

and breakfast properties and wilderness retreats<br />

to ensure you have a never to be forgotten trip.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> here lends itself to a variety of modes of<br />

transport. Whilst driving is a delight, travelling by<br />

train, light aircraft, ferry and cruise ship is a<br />

pleasure amidst such inspiring scenery.<br />

Climate<br />

Alaska has an extremely variable climate with<br />

weather famous for its unpredictability. The<br />

favoured time to travel is from June to September<br />

when the state enjoys long periods of daylight<br />

and often surprisingly warm temperatures.<br />

However, May and late September are also<br />

months to consider visiting as there are fewer<br />

visitors and costs are lower. Rain can fall heavily<br />

in coastal regions during summer months so<br />

waterproofs are always a good idea.<br />

Accommodation<br />

With such a short summer season and so many<br />

small communities, early reservations are highly<br />

recommended. The state offers a variety of<br />

hotels, motels, character bed and breakfasts and<br />

delightful lodges often set amidst the most<br />

stunning scenery. Our Alaska specialists have<br />

visited a huge range of properties to find those<br />

that best match your preferences and budget.<br />

Sockeye salmon<br />

Alaska’s Russian heritage<br />

Wildlife<br />

With a relatively small human population<br />

concentrated in a handful of cities, Alaska is one<br />

of the few places in the USA where entire<br />

ecosystems are still intact and ancient migratory<br />

routes uninterrupted. This is a state that abounds<br />

with wildlife – more caribou live here than people,<br />

pods of humpback whales spend summers in<br />

Alaska’s icy straits and in August the rivers are<br />

choked with millions of spawning salmon. The state<br />

is home to more than 40,000 grizzlies and has<br />

some of the best bear viewing anywhere in the<br />

world. Moose, mountain goats, Dall sheep, wolves<br />

and bald eagles are also frequently seen so do<br />

keep your camera and binoculars close to hand.<br />

Aleut people<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

99


Grizzly bears catching salmon at Brooks Falls<br />

Anchorage<br />

Situated on the shores of Cook Inlet with a<br />

panoramic backdrop of the Chugach Mountains,<br />

Anchorage is the largest city in Alaska and home to<br />

approximately 260,000 people - nearly half the state’s<br />

population. There are some excellent museums, such<br />

as the Anchorage Museum of History and Art, the<br />

Alaska Heritage Museum and the Alaska Native<br />

Heritage Centre. Thanks in part to the oil industry<br />

the city has the broadest variety of entertainment,<br />

restaurants and shops in Alaska but between the<br />

salmon-rich waters of Cook Inlet and the mighty<br />

peaks of the Chugach Mountains its apparent<br />

sophistication is paper-thin. Here you can often see<br />

moose grazing on suburban flower gardens - this is<br />

truly a city on the edge of the wilderness.<br />

THE CAPTAIN COOK HOTEL,<br />

ANCHORAGE<br />

The Captain Cook Hotel is one of Anchorage’s<br />

most luxurious properties and is situated in the<br />

bustling heart of the city. This award-winning<br />

hotel has a total of 547 rooms and suites, many<br />

with a view of either the Chugach Mountains or<br />

Cook Inlet. The Crow’s Nest restaurant is one of<br />

the finest restaurants in the city and the hotel also<br />

offers an English pub, an Italian restaurant and a<br />

coffee shop. Downstairs there is a collection of<br />

pictures charting the life of Captain Cook who<br />

explored Alaska’s coastline in 1778.<br />

THE HISTORIC ANCHORAGE<br />

HOTEL, ANCHORAGE<br />

Situated in the heart of downtown Anchorage,<br />

this hotel was built in 1916 when the city was<br />

in its infancy: now it is listed on the National<br />

Register of Historic Places and is the most<br />

atmospheric of the city’s hotels. For many years<br />

the hotel was the only place in town you could<br />

be served a meal on china with linen and silver:<br />

it has always served as Anchorage’s primary<br />

meeting and gathering place. Today the hotel has<br />

26 comfortable rooms and suites. A gift shop, bar<br />

and restaurant are situated just a few steps away<br />

across the street.<br />

Chugach Mountains & Knik<br />

Glacier Float-plane Trip<br />

Discover the Chugach Mountain range and its<br />

secluded valleys on this sensational float-plane<br />

trip. Soar over Captain Cook’s Turnagain Arm<br />

in search of beluga whales and get a new<br />

perspective of the bustling metropolis of<br />

Anchorage in its setting between mountains and<br />

water whilst being given a full commentary by<br />

your experienced pilot. The flight will take you<br />

over the expansive Knik Glacier, rimmed with<br />

magnificent hanging glaciers, where you can sense<br />

the motion of the ice and see how it has shaped<br />

the land whilst scanning the ground for mountain<br />

goats and moose.<br />

Kenai Peninsula<br />

The huge Kenai Peninsula, stretches out into the<br />

sea immediately south of Anchorage. Small by<br />

Alaska standards, it encompasses a taste of all<br />

the state has to offer including whale watching,<br />

outstanding fishing, tidewater glaciers and<br />

character small towns. Homer is a bustling<br />

community known for its halibut fishing and the<br />

stunning views from the ‘spit’ that juts into<br />

Kachemak Bay. Girdwood, set on Turnagain Arm,<br />

is famed for its tidal bore and its proximity to the<br />

Portage Glacier whilst Soldotna is renowned for<br />

its king salmon fishing. Nearby Kenai has a tangible<br />

sense of history exemplified by its Russian<br />

Orthodox church. Other highlights include the<br />

lovely town of Seldovia, just a short ferry trip away<br />

from Homer and Kenai National Wildlife Refuge.<br />

LANDS END RESORT, HOMER<br />

With a spectacular beachfront location at the<br />

tip of the Homer Spit, the Lands End Resort is<br />

situated over six kilometres out into the middle<br />

of Kachemak Bay, with 180 degree views of the<br />

Kenai Mountains and its glaciers. Many of the 108<br />

rooms have a private deck where you can enjoy a<br />

glass of wine and look out for otters, seals, whales<br />

and eagles. After a day of sightseeing you can<br />

relax in the health and fitness spa with its outdoor<br />

hot tub overlooking the bay, or enjoy dinner at<br />

the Chart Room restaurant.<br />

100


Landing the catch<br />

Katmai National Park<br />

Crow Creek Mine, Girdwood<br />

Halibut Fishing<br />

No visit to Homer is complete without trying<br />

your hand at halibut fishing and the fish in these<br />

waters are often enormous and make for hugely<br />

exciting sport. Your guides are very experienced<br />

to ensure you have a safe and comfortable day<br />

on the water while they teach you the techniques<br />

of bottom fishing, baiting your hooks and landing<br />

your fish. The average halibut brought in to<br />

Homer weighs around 28 pounds. Along with<br />

great fishing and beautiful scenery you are likely to<br />

spot seals, sea otters, sealions, puffins and whales.<br />

Katmai National Park<br />

In June 1912 a violent eruption of the Novarupta<br />

Volcano turned a huge track of wilderness into a<br />

landscape of ash-covered mountains, smoking valleys<br />

and thousands of steam vents. The valley floor<br />

became known as the Valley of 10,000 Smokes and<br />

subsequently became the national monument now<br />

known as Katmai National Park and Preserve. This<br />

remote wilderness has a deserved reputation for<br />

its truly spectacular mountain scenery and for the<br />

richness and diversity of its wildlife. Katmai has the<br />

world’s largest population - more than 2,000 - of<br />

protected grizzly bears. At Brooks Falls they<br />

congregate at the rivers edge to fish for salmon<br />

while at Hallo Bay they are frequently seen feeding<br />

on sedges along the shoreline.<br />

The Bears of Hallo Bay,<br />

Katmai National Park<br />

Grizzly bear viewing in Alaska is renowned, but<br />

Hallo Bay offers a wonderful opportunity to get<br />

close to these magnificent creatures at any time<br />

of the summer season. Reached by a thrilling light<br />

aircraft flight from Homer, Hallo Bay is located on<br />

the wild, remote and volcanic Pacific coast of the<br />

Alaska Peninsula. There are no roads within nearly<br />

500 kilometres of Hallo Bay which is surrounded<br />

by nearly 17,000 square kilometres of the pristine<br />

wilderness of Katmai National Park. The beaches<br />

here are stunning but it is the superb coastal bear<br />

viewing for which the area is renowned. Hallo Bay<br />

offers a diversity of food habitats and has one of<br />

the highest concentrations of bears in Alaska.<br />

From May to early July they are engaged in<br />

complex and fascinating mating behaviour, digging<br />

clams in the inter-tidal areas and grazing on the<br />

coastal sedges. In mid-July the first of the salmon<br />

arrive, providing a feast and a change in diet. Bear<br />

viewing takes place on foot in groups of four or<br />

five guests, with experienced naturalist guides<br />

making the experience highly personal and<br />

informative, as well as safe. Accommodation here<br />

is in simple weather-port tents but hot showers<br />

are available and plenty of hearty nutritious food<br />

is included. Guests should be reasonably fit and<br />

prepared for some wilderness walking to make<br />

the most of a stay in this exceptional place.<br />

Catch of the day in Seward<br />

The Bears of Brooks Falls,<br />

Katmai National Park<br />

Brooks Falls in Katmai National Park is world<br />

renowned for its large population of grizzly bears,<br />

attracted by the prolific numbers of salmon found in<br />

the Brooks River. Special platforms overlooking the<br />

river offer guests superb independent bear viewing<br />

and park rangers are on hand to answer questions<br />

and ensure your safety. Bears are typically seen from<br />

mid June until the end of the summer, apart from<br />

August when they forage for berries in the woods.<br />

They stand at the top of the falls to catch the<br />

leaping, spawning salmon whilst in September they<br />

gorge themselves on dead fish, fattening themselves<br />

up before winter hibernation. Accommodation here<br />

is basic but the wildlife sightings are superb.<br />

Salty Dawg Saloon in Homer<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

101


Stellar sealions<br />

Seward<br />

The coastal town of Seward is set on beautiful<br />

Resurrection Bay on the Kenai Peninsula and is<br />

named after the man who arranged for the<br />

purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. This<br />

strategic spot is the southern terminus for the<br />

Alaska Railroad and is one of the state’s principal<br />

ports. Surrounded by abrupt snow-capped<br />

mountains, the town is the gateway to beautiful<br />

Kenai Fjords National Park and home to the vast<br />

Harding Icefield and a number of tidewater<br />

glaciers. The park is one of Alaska’s jewels, where<br />

abundant wildlife and sensational glacier scenery<br />

competes with whales, sea otters and seabirds.<br />

KIM’S FOREST B&B, SEWARD<br />

Kim’s Forest is a hidden jewel, offering a<br />

warm welcome to all who stay. Situated just<br />

11 kilometres north of Seward in a secluded<br />

wooded spot, this is the perfect place to base<br />

yourself, with countless hiking trails in the vicinity,<br />

Kenai Fjords National Park close by and easy<br />

access to whale watching trips, glacier tours and<br />

the chance to explore pristine Resurrection Bay.<br />

There are just six guest rooms, ensuring privacy<br />

and personal, friendly service. A delicious<br />

breakfast is served every morning with seasonal<br />

fruits and reindeer sausages just some of the<br />

items on the menu – the perfect way to start<br />

your day.<br />

KENAI FJORDS WILDERNESS LODGE,<br />

NEAR SEWARD<br />

In the deep U-shaped valley between two of<br />

Fox Island’s peaks, this remote wilderness lodge<br />

is set on the pebbled shores of Resurrection Bay.<br />

Reached by boat from Seward, this exclusive lodge<br />

offers accommodation in eight private seaside<br />

cabins where guests can listen to the ocean lapping<br />

on the beach and feel the breeze wafting down<br />

from the nearby peaks. An overnight stay is a<br />

wonderful way to experience the remote beauty<br />

of this special place. The main lodge has a wood<br />

burning stove, comfortable sofas and books to<br />

complement this peaceful retreat. Dinner includes<br />

delicious gourmet dishes prepared by the island<br />

chef. There is a resident naturalist, a natural<br />

history library, and sea kayaking is available.<br />

A nine hour guided boat trip of Kenai Fjords<br />

National Park is included.<br />

Prince William Sound<br />

The classic image of Alaska is of huge chunks of<br />

ice crashing into deep blue fjords, breathtaking<br />

coastlines and down to earth locals at one with<br />

their environment. Prince William Sound has all<br />

this and more with rain-forested mountains and<br />

an abundance of wildlife such as whales, sealions,<br />

harbour seals, Dall sheep, mountain goats and, of<br />

course, bears. There are three towns on Prince<br />

William Sound, all very different. Valdez has a<br />

remarkably picturesque setting amidst some of the<br />

world’s tallest mountains and is the terminal for<br />

the trans-Alaska oil pipeline. Cordova is a working<br />

fishing and canning port that remains somewhat<br />

off the beaten track, whilst the tiny port of<br />

Whittier is hemmed in by glaciated mountains<br />

with access through the recently-converted<br />

Whittier Tunnel.<br />

PRINCE WILLIAM SOUND CRUISE<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> deep into Prince William Sound to see<br />

dozens of alpine, piedmont and tidewater glaciers<br />

at close proximity. You can hear these towering<br />

masses of blue-veined ice creak and often crash<br />

as great chunks of ice calve into the icy waters<br />

below. During your cruise keep a look out for sea<br />

otters, seals, porpoises and sealions. Passengers<br />

may also see bears, mountain goats, bald eagles<br />

and thousands of kittiwakes.<br />

102<br />

Glacier cruise in Prince William Sound


Alaska Highlights<br />

For those with limited time, or wish to combine<br />

some time on the ground with an Alaska cruise,<br />

this is the perfect itinerary. Encapsulating some of<br />

Alaska’s grandest scenery and most spell-binding<br />

national parks, this is an ideal introduction to this<br />

northern state.<br />

Kenai Fjords Wilderness Lodge<br />

Fisherwoman<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Arrive in Anchorage at the start of<br />

your trip.<br />

Collect your hire car and drive north<br />

along the splendid George Parks<br />

Highway to Denali National Park.<br />

Enjoy a day to explore the wild<br />

delights of Denali National Park.<br />

Coach transfers to the park are<br />

included. After your tour, drive<br />

north to Fairbanks.<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend a full day exploring Fairbanks.<br />

Day 5<br />

Drive south along the spectacular<br />

Richardson Highway through the<br />

Chugach Mountains to Valdez.<br />

Day 6<br />

Enjoy a full day to explore Valdez.<br />

Day 7<br />

Take the ferry across beautiful Prince<br />

William Sound to Whittier and then<br />

continue your drive south to Seward.<br />

Old cannery<br />

THE INN AT WHITTIER<br />

At the mouth of the harbour in Whittier stands<br />

the timber-framed Inn at Whittier. At the centre<br />

of the four storey structure is a lighthouse tower<br />

boasting spectacular views of Prince William<br />

Sound and the surrounding mountains. The inn<br />

has 25 well-appointed guest rooms and suites, all<br />

with crisp bed linens and down comforters. The<br />

restaurant specialises in the freshest local seafood<br />

whilst the lounge is the perfect place to enjoy a<br />

drink overlooking the delightful harbour.<br />

ZACHAR BAY LODGE,<br />

KODIAK ISLAND<br />

After retiring in 1985, Marty and Linda Eaton<br />

wanted a retirement project so along with their<br />

son Andy, acquired a derelict cannery on the<br />

shores of Zachar Bay. Zachar Bay Lodge was<br />

born and 15 years on it continues to prosper.<br />

The lodge has a perfect setting within the Kodiak<br />

Island Wildlife Refuge and the 11 guest rooms set<br />

around the property reflect the personality and<br />

history of the bay. Meals are home-cooked and<br />

served buffet style in the dining room whilst all<br />

the activities here are guided and include hiking,<br />

wildlife observation and superb fishing. Powerful<br />

boats and float-planes reach remote beaches and<br />

into the wilderness. The lodge is particularly<br />

renowned for its sensational bear viewing,<br />

especially during the July salmon run.<br />

Day 8<br />

Day 9<br />

Whilst in Seward you may wish to<br />

discover the beauty of nearby Kenai<br />

Fjords National Park. Afterwards,<br />

drive north back to Anchorage.<br />

Your tour concludes this morning<br />

with the return of your hire car.<br />

Kodiak Island<br />

Lying in the Gulf of Alaska, Kodiak is the largest of<br />

the USA’s islands and is frequently called Alaska’s<br />

‘Emerald Isle’. Kodiak town was once the capital<br />

of Russian Alaska and this heritage lives on in the<br />

Baranof Museum, Erskine House and the Holy<br />

Resurrection Church. Fishing is the dominant<br />

industry on the island, leaving the mountainous<br />

interior largely untouched: two thirds is set aside<br />

as a wildlife refuge, home to as many as 3,000 of<br />

the largest grizzly bears in the world: weighing in<br />

at between 800 and 1,500 pounds they are<br />

known, respectfully, as Kodiak bears. The salmon<br />

here are so abundant that the bears only eat the<br />

most nutritious parts, the skin and the roe, and<br />

discard the rest. Other animals frequently found<br />

are Sitka black-tailed deer, mountain goats, foxes,<br />

elk, otters and bald eagles.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

A Kodiak Island grizzly<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Zachar Bay Lodge<br />

103


Mount McKinley, Denali National Park<br />

THE ALASKA RAILROAD<br />

In a remote corner of the Alaska wilderness you<br />

stand by a railway track as a small train appears.<br />

Waving a white flag, the engineer acknowledges<br />

you with the whistle and the train stops. You hop<br />

on board to join others from the bush, the<br />

fishermen, backpackers, a hunter with his quarry<br />

and locals whose homesteads can only be reached<br />

on this, one of America’s last flag-stop trains.<br />

Most overseas visitors opt for the Gold Star Service<br />

where you can relax in luxurious leather seats in<br />

glass-domed carriages while waiter-service leaves<br />

you free to take in the breathtaking scenery.<br />

Whichever way you choose to travel, the Alaska<br />

Railroad is a thrilling journey of adventure from<br />

Seward to Denali and Fairbanks that passes through<br />

some of the most spectacular scenery in Alaska.<br />

Talkeetna<br />

Talkeetna is a quintessential Alaskan gold mining<br />

town dating back to the early 20th century that has<br />

retained much of its character with dirt roads, log<br />

cabins and old clapboard shop-fronts. There is<br />

tremendous community spirit here and locals can<br />

often be seen playing fiddles or guitars and mixing<br />

with visitors and mountaineers who come to climb<br />

Mount McKinley in nearby Denali National Park.<br />

This is the perfect place to try fishing, glacier trekking<br />

or take a light aircraft flight around the mountain.<br />

TALKEETNA ALASKAN LODGE<br />

This charming lodge offers a warm and<br />

welcoming ambience. Consisting of several<br />

beautiful log buildings housing both the main<br />

lodge and the 201 guest rooms, the lodge has<br />

wonderful views of the Alaska Range and Mount<br />

McKinley. The main lodge has a spacious lobby<br />

with high cathedral ceilings and a beautiful stone<br />

fireplace and there is also a café, bar and an<br />

award-winning restaurant.<br />

Denali National Park<br />

Denali National Park’s almost two and a half million<br />

hectares have been carved out of the heartland of<br />

Alaska to create a wilderness area of epic scale.<br />

An entire ecosystem is preserved here providing<br />

unparalleled wildlife viewing: it’s common to see<br />

bears grazing on lake-front sedges, a herd of caribou<br />

disappearing into a deep valley or a lone wolf loping<br />

along a river bar. The highlight of the park is Mount<br />

McKinley, the ‘Great One’ that at 6,193 metres is<br />

the highest mountain in North America and<br />

dominates the park and the surrounding region.<br />

Access to the park is by shuttle bus along the 148<br />

kilometre Park Road whilst accommodation within<br />

the park is limited to campgrounds and several<br />

lodges around Kantishna. The Denali region also<br />

encompasses lowland boreal forest and alpine<br />

tundra, providing a perfect setting for a variety of<br />

activities including rafting, cycling and guided walking.<br />

KANTISHNA ROADHOUSE,<br />

DENALI NATIONAL PARK<br />

This full service lodge, owned and operated by<br />

native Alaskans, is deep in the heart of Denali<br />

National Park. The original house dating back to<br />

the early 20th century still stands, but the lodge<br />

itself is a more recent construction, built in<br />

traditional style but comfortable and proof against<br />

the elements. The main lodge contains the dining<br />

rooms, saloon, library and gift shop, whilst guest<br />

rooms are housed in two and four-roomed cabins<br />

in the grounds. These exude a rustic Alaskan charm<br />

with private bathrooms and showers, hand-crafted<br />

furniture and warm quilts. All meals and snacks are<br />

included during your stay along with daily guided<br />

and self-guided activities and hosted evening<br />

presentations about the area’s natural wonders.<br />

CAMP DENALI & NORTH FACE<br />

LODGE, DENALI NATIONAL PARK<br />

Camp Denali and North Face Lodge are the only<br />

two lodges that have views of Mount McKinley and<br />

the Alaska Range. Both are owned and managed<br />

by the Cole family and these lodges alone have<br />

permits to lead guided activities in the higher alpine<br />

valleys of the park past Wonder Lake. Resident<br />

naturalists assist guests to search for wildlife and<br />

wildflowers and conduct evening lectures about the<br />

park’s flora and fauna. Mountain bikes, canoes and<br />

fishing tackle are also available and both lodges<br />

have comprehensive libraries. The kitchens grow<br />

104


Alaska & Yukon Highlights<br />

Linking the highlights of Alaska with the best of<br />

neighbouring Yukon, this tour provides a detailed<br />

exploration of these scenic northern regions and<br />

their most magnificent national parks.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Anchorage for your stay<br />

in Alaska’s largest city.<br />

Collect your hire car and drive along<br />

the beautiful George Parks Highway<br />

to Denali National Park.<br />

A full day tour of Denali<br />

National Park.<br />

Drive north passing Nenana on<br />

a scenic drive to Fairbanks.<br />

Pass the settlements of North Pole<br />

and Richardson along the Alaska<br />

Highway to Tok.<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> along the Taylor Highway to<br />

the Canadian border. Once in the<br />

Yukon, drive along the spectacular<br />

Top of the World Highway to<br />

Dawson City.<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Camp Denali<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Day 6<br />

Day 7<br />

Spend a whole day exploring this<br />

historic gold mining town.<br />

Day 8<br />

Drive south along the Klondike<br />

Highway to Whitehorse.<br />

Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge<br />

Black wolf<br />

Day 9<br />

Leaving Whitehorse, travel to the<br />

old gold rush port of Skagway<br />

before taking the picturesque ferry<br />

crossing to Haines.<br />

their own fruit and vegetables and serve food made<br />

from the finest fresh ingredients. Camp Denali is<br />

Alaska’s original lodge and nature centre whose<br />

individual cabins have wood-burning stoves and<br />

Alaskan artwork, with a central shower block just a<br />

short walk away. Meanwhile, North Face Lodge is a<br />

rustic log cabin on a tundra meadow in the Moose<br />

Creek valley with 15 small but well appointed guest<br />

rooms, each with a private bathroom.<br />

McKinley Run Float Trip<br />

Incredible views of Mount McKinley form a backdrop<br />

to a leisurely float down the Nenana River. This two<br />

hour scenic rafting trip down the river gives the<br />

chance to see the wildlife that lives in and around<br />

the water and a knowledgeable river guide is on<br />

hand to point out the sights and share this very<br />

different perspective of a spectacular region.<br />

Fairbanks<br />

Alaska’s second largest city is cradled in the<br />

Tanana Valley, at the end of the Alaska Highway<br />

and some 300 kilometres south of the Arctic<br />

Circle. During the summer months Fairbanks<br />

enjoys as much as 21 hours of natural light and<br />

temperatures that rise as high as 40 degrees<br />

Celsius. Founded by a gold prospector in 1901,<br />

the town – like many others in Alaska – struggled<br />

until the construction of the trans-Alaska pipeline<br />

in the mid 1970s. Now this eclectic mix of log<br />

cabins, modern office buildings and a university<br />

campus is recognised as Alaska’s gateway to the<br />

Arctic. Several tours are available from Fairbanks,<br />

including trips to the Arctic Circle, Gold Dredge<br />

No. 8, the Botanical Gardens and the Large<br />

Animal Research Station.<br />

RIVER’S EDGE RESORT, FAIRBANKS<br />

Situated minutes from the airport and the<br />

highway, River’s Edge Resort is easy to reach but<br />

in a tranquil and scenic setting along the banks of<br />

the Chena River. Steve and Linda Franks are the<br />

owners: third generation Alaskans who offer a<br />

warm and friendly welcome and pride themselves<br />

on their local knowledge. There are 86 private<br />

cottages, some with river views, and a restaurant<br />

specialising in delicious Alaska fusion cuisine.<br />

Arctic Circle Native<br />

Adventure Trip<br />

This thrilling day trip starts with an early morning<br />

mini-coach journey beyond the Arctic Circle<br />

where you board a light aircraft flight to the<br />

native village of Anaktuvuk Pass: ‘the place of<br />

caribou droppings’. This village lies far to the<br />

north in the central Brooks Range and is the last<br />

remaining settlement of the Nunamiut and the<br />

inland northern Inupiat people. Here you learn<br />

about the culture and lifestyle of the local people<br />

before the return journey to Fairbanks.<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

After spending a night in Haines,<br />

drive back into Canada to spend<br />

the night in the small village of<br />

Haines Junction.<br />

Pass spectacular Kluane National<br />

Park on the drive to Tok.<br />

Depart for the stunning drive<br />

through the Alaska Range and<br />

Chugach Mountains to Wasilla.<br />

Arrive in Seward on the Kenai<br />

Peninsula where there is time for a<br />

cruise in Kenai Fjords National Park.<br />

Return to Anchorage for your final<br />

night, with time for shopping and<br />

exploring the city.<br />

Drop off your hire car at the end<br />

of your tour.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

105


106<br />

Glaciers in Wrangell St. Elias National Park<br />

Wrangell St. Elias<br />

National Park<br />

Created in 1980 and extending to over five<br />

million hectares, Wrangell St. Elias is the largest<br />

national park in the USA and a place that defies<br />

superlatives. It encompasses several mountain<br />

ranges and boasts nine of the sixteen highest<br />

peaks in North America, including the second<br />

and third highest. Bordered by Canada’s Kluane<br />

National Park the two parks together make up<br />

over eight million hectares of canyons, valleys,<br />

towering mountains and ice-fields. The 204<br />

kilometre-long Bagley Icefield is the largest<br />

non-polar ice sheet in North America, whilst<br />

the Malaspina Glacier alone is larger than Rhode<br />

Island state. Wildlife here transcends all other<br />

Alaskan parks in its abundance and diversity, with<br />

healthy populations of moose, grizzly and black<br />

bears, Dall sheep, wolverines, mountain goats<br />

and three herds of caribou.<br />

McCarthy and Kennicott<br />

Reached by the unpaved 95 kilometre-long<br />

McCarthy Road, this historic former ghost town<br />

has one of America’s most spectacular settings.<br />

At its doorstep are rugged peaks and raging rivers<br />

fed by massive glaciers. This tiny town of old<br />

wooden cabins and restored boomtown era<br />

buildings is car-free and provides a fascinating<br />

glimpse into the past. McCarthy faces the<br />

Kennicott Glacier’s terminal moraine and the<br />

abandoned former copper mining town of the<br />

same name is not far away. In 1900 ‘Tarantula<br />

Jack’ Smith and Clarence Warner discovered one<br />

of the richest copper deposits ever found here.<br />

When it was exhausted in 1938 almost everything<br />

was left behind and today the mine makes a<br />

haunting ruin to wander around.<br />

Kennecott Mine<br />

MA JOHNSON’S HOTEL, MCCARTHY<br />

Built in 1923 by Pete and Ma Johnson as a<br />

boarding house, Ma Johnson’s was a modern<br />

hotel for its day with steam heat, electricity, and<br />

fresh eggs – all luxuries in any city at the time.<br />

McCarthy was a boom town and Ma Johnson<br />

was an integral part of the community. While<br />

the town was mostly abandoned from the early<br />

1940s to the early 1970s, there was always at<br />

least one person living in McCarthy. A full<br />

restoration of the property began in 2001 to<br />

create an authentic experience that is true to the<br />

town’s past. Each room is unique and decorated<br />

with interesting artefacts from the town as well<br />

as custom bathrobes, handmade soaps and spa<br />

slippers. Most of the friendly staff lives in<br />

McCarthy all year - something that is quite<br />

unusual in small Alaskan towns.<br />

ALASKA MARINE HIGHWAY FERRY<br />

Alaska’s state ferry system carries passengers<br />

and vehicles from Bellingham in Washington<br />

State to southeast Alaska, Prince William Sound,<br />

Kodiak Island, the Alaska Peninsula and the<br />

Aleutian Islands. The routes are mostly<br />

wonderfully scenic, giving a fascinating glimpse into<br />

many of Alaska’s small waterfront communities.<br />

Vessels have a restaurant, a glass-covered viewing<br />

area and passenger cabins.


Horse riding in the mountains<br />

Flying into Wrangell St. Elias National Park<br />

Gustavus Inn<br />

Ma Johnson’s Hotel<br />

Sitka<br />

Sitka, formerly New Archangel, is flanked by<br />

majestic snow-capped mountains and the Pacific<br />

Ocean. Dating back to 1700 it was once the<br />

capital of Russian America when it was chosen<br />

by the Russian trader and coloniser Alexander<br />

Baranof for his headquarters. Today this interesting<br />

city is a pleasant blend of Tlingit, Russian and<br />

American cultures. The Russian Orthodox<br />

Cathedral of St. Michael holds priceless icons and<br />

other religious treasures, and the nearby Russian<br />

Bishop’s House is a rare example of Russian<br />

colonial architecture. The Sitka National Historical<br />

Park has an excellent collection of totem poles as<br />

well as walking trails through old-growth coastal<br />

forest and a museum that tells of the battles<br />

between the Tlingits and Russians.<br />

Glacier Bay<br />

Glacier Bay National Park<br />

Encompassing more than one million hectares,<br />

Glacier Bay is 144 kilometres northwest of Juneau<br />

in a land comprising three distinct micro-climates<br />

and seven different ecosystems that support a wide<br />

variety of plant and animal life. From endangered<br />

humpback whales and Arctic peregrine falcons to<br />

mountain goats, seals, eagles and black and grizzly<br />

bears, the bay is home to a rich diversity of Alaska’s<br />

wildlife. Earthquakes and climatic fluctuations have<br />

caused the 16 tidewater glaciers to retreat in<br />

recent years and the park is perhaps most famous<br />

for prolific glacier calving. Visitors often hear a<br />

tremendous thundering as great walls of ice come<br />

crashing down into the bay, a magical and<br />

humbling sight.<br />

GLACIER BAY LODGE,<br />

GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK<br />

Nestled between the trees of Bartlett Cove,<br />

Glacier Bay Lodge offers the only accommodation<br />

within Glacier Bay National Park. The lodge basks<br />

in stunning views of the Fairweather Mountains<br />

and is the embarkation point for cruises of the<br />

bay. The guest rooms are dotted amongst the<br />

Sitka spruce trees of the Tongass National Forest,<br />

just a short walk from the main lodge. The lobby<br />

has a massive stone fireplace and lies next to the<br />

excellent Fairweather restaurant.<br />

INNS OF GUSTAVUS,<br />

NEAR GLACIER BAY NATIONAL PARK<br />

Both the Gustavus Inn and Bear Track Inn are<br />

located in the small community of Gustavus,<br />

gateway to Glacier Bay National Park. Gustavus<br />

Inn is an historic homestead dating from 1928.<br />

Overlooking Icy Strait, it is owned and run by the<br />

charming Lesh family who provide comfortable<br />

lodging and delicious home-grown food. Bear<br />

Track Inn is a unique two-storey log building with<br />

14 large rooms. The central sitting room has a<br />

massive fireplace and is the focal point of the inn,<br />

with lovely views of the mountains, forests and<br />

lush meadows. The inn is renowned for serving<br />

mouth-watering halibut, Alaskan spotted prawns<br />

and Dungeness crab. Both lodges offer superb<br />

fishing and hiking, kayaking, whale watching and<br />

glacier cruises in the national park.<br />

Humpback whale<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Bear Track Inn, Inns of Gustavus<br />

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108<br />

Humpback whale<br />

Skagway<br />

No town in Alaska is quite like Skagway with its<br />

blend of history and outstanding natural beauty.<br />

Lying at the head of the Lynn Canal at the<br />

northern end of Alaska’s Inside Passage, much of<br />

the town is situated within the Klondike Gold Rush<br />

National Historical Park. The town was founded in<br />

1897 when more than 40,000 prospectors arrived<br />

on their way across the hazardous Chilkoot Trail to<br />

seek their fortunes in the goldfields of the Yukon’s<br />

Klondike. The building of the White Pass and<br />

Yukon Railroad enabled many more to make this<br />

arduous journey and established Skagway as the<br />

principal port to the interior. Many of the original<br />

wooden cabins and buildings remain today, making<br />

the town a popular destination for cruise ships and<br />

evoking characters of the past such as William<br />

Moore and ‘Soapy’ Smith.<br />

Skagway<br />

MILE ZERO B&B, SKAGWAY<br />

Mile Zero was planned, designed and built as a<br />

bed and breakfast in 1995. The seven spacious<br />

guest rooms are reached by a separate entrance<br />

and all have private bathrooms and a porch with<br />

mountain views. It is centrally located in a quiet<br />

residential area yet is just a short walk to<br />

everything in town. Your host, Tara Mallory, is<br />

Alaskan born and bred and can give lots of<br />

information about the area: she also serves a<br />

delicious continental buffet breakfast.<br />

YUKON & WHITE PASS RAILROAD<br />

Without a doubt this is the most spectacular trip<br />

you can take from Skagway. Built in 1898 during<br />

the Klondike gold rush, this narrow gauge railway<br />

is an engineering marvel. Your journey takes you<br />

through a breathtaking panorama of mountains,<br />

glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, tunnels, trestle bridges<br />

and switch-backs in the comfort of vintage parlour<br />

cars. En route you will pass Glacier Gorge, Dead<br />

Horse Gulch and Bridal Veil Falls and climb 880<br />

metres up White Pass before arriving at Lake<br />

Bennett or Whitehorse.<br />

Yukon & White Pass Railroad<br />

Juneau<br />

Juneau is Alaska’s small but busy capital, a haven<br />

of narrow streets, museums, bars and art galleries.<br />

The city was founded in 1880 by Joe Juneau and<br />

Richard Harris as they prospected for gold in the<br />

wilderness. Today the buildings here seem to rise<br />

with the mountains from the sea, and hardly<br />

seem to have changed in the last 100 years.<br />

Visitors to this scenic city arrive by air or cruise<br />

ship as there are no roads in or out. No tour of<br />

Juneau is complete without a visit to the Alaska<br />

State Museum, St. Nicholas’ Russian Orthodox<br />

Church and the State Capitol Building.<br />

Surrounding the city are the omnipresent<br />

mountains but Juneau is best known for the<br />

impressive Mendenhall Glacier, its wealth of<br />

stunning hiking trails and for its proximity to<br />

Glacier Bay National Park and Tracy Arm Fjord.


Bears, Whales & Glaciers<br />

The magical fjords of Glacier Bay and Admiralty<br />

Island offer some of the most stupendous scenery<br />

in Alaska and this lovely short trip encapsulates<br />

the best of this along with offering some of the<br />

most superb wildlife viewing in the state.<br />

Bald eagle<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Arrive in Juneau for your<br />

overnight stay.<br />

Enjoy a sightseeing tour of Alaska’s<br />

capital including a visit to the massive<br />

Mendenhall Glacier.<br />

Juneau crab harvesting<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Day 5<br />

Today you will be taken on a three<br />

hour light aircraft tour to Admiralty<br />

Island, the “fortress of the bears”.<br />

Your skilled pilot/guide will take you<br />

to the best areas of the island for<br />

viewing the grizzly bears.<br />

This morning take a light aircraft<br />

flight to Gustavus and check in to<br />

the Gustavus Inn. After lunch take a<br />

three-hour whale watch tour of Icy<br />

Strait, the summer feeding ground<br />

for humpback whales. Upon<br />

returning, dinner is included.<br />

Take a full day catamaran cruise of<br />

magnificent Glacier Bay where you<br />

should see brilliant blue glaciers<br />

calving into the icy waters. Lunch is<br />

included on board and dinner is<br />

included back at the inn.<br />

The Mendenhall Glacier<br />

GOLDBELT HOTEL, JUNEAU<br />

Close to the State Capitol in a privileged downtown<br />

location facing the waterfront, the Goldbelt Hotel<br />

offers comfortable accommodation in the heart of<br />

the city. There is a restaurant, lounge and a spacious<br />

lobby decorated with native Alaskan art. Many of<br />

the 105 rooms have stunning views of the cruise<br />

ships as they negotiate the harbour.<br />

Four Glacier Heli Adventure<br />

This hour-long adventure takes you on a<br />

breathtaking helicopter flight over the Juneau<br />

Icefields. The highlight is a thrilling glacier landing<br />

in this spectacular icy wilderness before once<br />

more taking to the skies for the return flight<br />

back to Juneau.<br />

Glacier heli adventure<br />

Alaskan wild flowers<br />

Whale Watching and<br />

the Mendenhall Glacier<br />

The Mendenhall Glacier is Juneau’s biggest<br />

attraction and a humbling sight: an enormous<br />

river of ice wedged between two mountains and<br />

reaching down to the tranquil waters of an icy<br />

lake. The glacier is, however, in rapid retreat: in<br />

2004 it shrank by 180 metres, more than ten<br />

times the rate of a decade ago. After exploring the<br />

glacier, join a thrilling whale watching trip to search<br />

for humpbacks before returning to your hotel.<br />

The Bears of<br />

Admiralty Island<br />

Off the coast of Juneau, Admiralty Island is home<br />

to over 1,600 grizzly bears, one of the highest<br />

concentrations in the world. The island became a<br />

National Monument in 1979 to protect this pristine<br />

environment which supports a variety of other<br />

wildlife including bald eagles and seals while whales,<br />

especially humpbacks, can be seen off its shores.<br />

The prime bear viewing season is from mid-July to<br />

mid-August when the salmon are spawning: at this<br />

time bears can often be seen gorging themselves<br />

on salmon carcasses or grazing on the sedge grass.<br />

Access to the island is by a breathtaking float-plane<br />

flight from Juneau but to reach the bears you’ll<br />

need to hike for several kilometres, accompanied<br />

by a naturalist pilot and guide.<br />

Day 6<br />

Depart Gustavus after breakfast for<br />

the light aircraft flight back to Juneau<br />

where your tour ends on arrival.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Alaska’s gold mining heritage<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

109


Tlingit totems and fireweed<br />

Anan Creek Bear Viewing<br />

Your journey to Anan Creek in the Tongass<br />

National Forest starts with a 45 minute jet boat<br />

trip from Wrangell. En route seals, stellar sealions,<br />

dolphins and the occasional orca whale appear,<br />

feeding on herring and smelt. Upon arrival, take a<br />

ten minute walk through the rainforest to the<br />

observation platform which provides superb<br />

opportunities to see both black and grizzly bears<br />

fishing: some may be a few metres below the<br />

platform while others may be across the river,<br />

45 metres away. The best bear viewing is from<br />

early July to late August and time at the platform<br />

is determined by your guide: based on local<br />

conditions it is usually between four and six hours.<br />

Wrangell<br />

Strategically located near the mouth of the Stikine<br />

River, Wrangell is one of Alaska’s oldest towns and<br />

has been ruled by four nations – Tlingit, Russia, Great<br />

Britain and the USA. The town’s heyday was during<br />

the late 19th century gold rush when a strike on the<br />

Stikine River turned the town into a lawless and<br />

ruthless place. Eventually Wrangell calmed into a<br />

fishing and lumber town and now makes a living<br />

harvesting sea urchins and sea cucumbers. The town<br />

has plenty of interesting local sights such as the<br />

Wrangell Museum, Chief Shakes Island with its totem<br />

poles, and Petroglyph Beach where rock carvings can<br />

be seen that are believed to date back 8,000 years.<br />

HARDINGS OLD SOURDOUGH<br />

LODGE, WRANGELL<br />

Bruce Harding’s Old Sourdough Lodge is a<br />

family-built lodge that has been in operation since<br />

1984. This simple Alaskan red cedar-pole building<br />

is situated just a short walk from the centre of<br />

Wrangell. There are 16 guest rooms as well as a<br />

restaurant, bar, sauna and steam bath. A courtesy<br />

shuttle operates between the lodge and both ferry<br />

and airport and continental breakfast is included.<br />

Misty Fjords National<br />

Monument, near Ketchikan<br />

Misty Fjords National Monument covers more<br />

than 800,000 hectares of wilderness on the<br />

southern tip of the Alaska Panhandle, part of a<br />

vast coastal rainforest which can receive over<br />

400 centimetres of rain each year. The region is<br />

marked by deep valleys, massive sea cliffs,<br />

tumbling waterfalls and sharp ridges formed by<br />

volcanic activity and glaciation. The lower slopes<br />

appear to be an unbroken carpet of cedar, spruce<br />

and hemlock whilst above the timberline alpine<br />

heaths burst into colour in the spring. Numerous<br />

fjords chisel narrow passages into the granite<br />

edges of this dramatic wilderness, the perfect<br />

setting for breathtaking journeys by ship amongst<br />

old lava flows and glaciers calving into the water.<br />

A cruise is the perfect way to discover this<br />

dramatic seascape.<br />

Petersburg<br />

At the end of the achingly beautiful Wrangell<br />

Narrows lies one of Alaska’s gems, the small town<br />

of Petersburg. The Norwegian Peter Buschmann<br />

arrived here in 1897 and found a fine harbour,<br />

abundant fish and a ready supply of ice from the<br />

nearby LeConte glacier. He built a cannery and<br />

enticed his Norwegian friends to follow him, thus<br />

establishing the town that bears his name. This<br />

busy little fishing port has a distinct Norwegian<br />

influence today with pretty Norwegian rosemaling<br />

decorating the tidy homes. The town has the<br />

largest halibut fishing fleet in Alaska and fish<br />

canning remains the dominant industry. Just across<br />

Frederick Sound there is a spectacular glaciated<br />

wall of alpine peaks whilst the LeConte Glacier<br />

regularly launches new icebergs into the sea<br />

which is a wonderful sight to behold.<br />

SCANDIA HOUSE, PETERSBURG<br />

This simple Alaskan hotel has a friendly ambience<br />

and enjoys a convenient location in downtown<br />

Petersburg, within easy reach of the city centre<br />

and the waterfront. This modern building has 33<br />

comfortable guest rooms, all en suite, and<br />

continental breakfast is included. Courtesy<br />

transfers to the ferry and airports are willingly<br />

supplied if required.<br />

110


Alaska’s Scenic Byways<br />

This delightful tour offers a comprehensive<br />

taste of Alaska’s highlights and gives you the<br />

opportunity of driving along some of the state’s<br />

most scenic roads.<br />

Day 1<br />

Arrive in Anchorage for your<br />

overnight stay.<br />

Collect your hire car and drive along<br />

the Glenn Highway to Glennallen.<br />

Continue your drive to Chitina<br />

where you board a light aircraft for<br />

the sensational flight to the small<br />

town of McCarthy.<br />

Day 2<br />

Alaska’s Inside Passage<br />

Creek Street, Ketchikan<br />

Day 3<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend a whole day exploring<br />

McCarthy and the fascinating<br />

former mining town of Kennicott.<br />

Day 5<br />

You will be taken back to Chitina by<br />

plane or minivan. Return to your car<br />

and drive south to Valdez.<br />

Day 6<br />

The day is yours to explore Valdez<br />

at your leisure.<br />

Day 7<br />

Your drive today leads you north,<br />

back across the Chugach Mountains<br />

to Glennallen.<br />

Day 8<br />

Today you head north along<br />

the scenic Richardson Highway<br />

to Fairbanks.<br />

Sealions<br />

Ketchikan<br />

Clinging to a narrow ledge of land between the<br />

water and the striking steep-sided mountains is<br />

the port city of Ketchikan. Once known as the<br />

‘canned salmon capital of the world’, this was<br />

the city’s ambition when it was founded in 1885<br />

and fishing is still an important industry. Today it<br />

is a principal port for visiting cruise ships and the<br />

Alaska Marine Highway. The town’s Totem<br />

Heritage Centre exhibits a display of totem poles<br />

salvaged from deserted Tlingit villages whilst the<br />

Deer Mountain Tribal Hatchery and Eagle Centre<br />

raises 350,000 salmon and trout every year and<br />

is a great place to learn all about their life-cycle.<br />

All over the city there are wooden stairways<br />

leading somewhere higher, especially on Edmond<br />

Street, known as the ‘Street of Stairs’. Picturesque<br />

Creek Street is the former red light district and<br />

Thomas Basin is particularly photogenic, being<br />

home to Ketchikan’s fishing fleet and you can<br />

watch the fishermen unload their catch before<br />

following them in to the nearby Potlatch Bar, a<br />

classic fisherman’s pub. Although you may wish<br />

to spend a day or two in Ketchikan itself, there<br />

are plenty of intriguing destinations just a short<br />

flight or ferry trip away. One of the highlights of<br />

the region is the vast Misty Fiords National<br />

Monument, an awe-inspiring series of sheer,<br />

glacially-scarred granite fjords draped in<br />

dense rainforest.<br />

CAPE FOX LODGE, KETCHIKAN<br />

Located in Ketchikan in the midst of the Tongass<br />

National Forest, Cape Fox Lodge is built on a<br />

mountain and accessed by a scenic tram ride.<br />

Inside it is a classic cosy mountain lodge, with a<br />

river rock fireplace, pine-beamed ceilings and<br />

overstuffed furniture. The lodge reflects the area’s<br />

First Nations heritage from the totem poles at<br />

the hotel entrance to a stunning carved screen<br />

and other artefacts on display throughout the<br />

hotel. There are 70 rooms with views of either<br />

the mountains or the harbour, and the Heen<br />

Kahidi restaurant and lounge specialises in<br />

delicious local seafood.<br />

Day 9<br />

Day 10<br />

Day 11<br />

Day 12<br />

Day 13<br />

Day 14<br />

Day 15<br />

After a night in Fairbanks, drive<br />

south on George Parks Highway<br />

to Denali National Park.<br />

Included today you have a full day<br />

in Denali National Park.<br />

From Denali your drive takes you<br />

south along the spectacular George<br />

Parks Highway, arriving at the Knik<br />

Glacier for your overnight stay.<br />

Drive south along the Seward<br />

Highway to Seward.<br />

Enjoy a whole day to explore<br />

delightful Seward.<br />

Drive north back to Anchorage for<br />

the last night of your tour.<br />

Your tour ends today in Anchorage.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Wild flowers<br />

111


112<br />

Snow Goose<br />

Alaska Cruises<br />

In a pristine land with few roads a small ship<br />

cruise is the perfect – and sometimes the only –<br />

way to explore the dazzling beauty of Alaska’s<br />

coastline. The vivid blue glaciers calving icebergs<br />

into crystal waters and pretty little fishing ports<br />

backed by immense coastal rainforests are easily<br />

explored without the hassle of packing and<br />

unpacking each day. Small ships are best: they can<br />

access regions and obtain close-up views that<br />

none of the large cruise ships can offer and there<br />

is a friendly conviviality on board amongst<br />

passengers who tend to be more motivated to<br />

take in the surrounding beauty than be distracted<br />

by entertainments on board. We have chosen our<br />

travel partners carefully to offer you the best in<br />

small ship cruises to this unforgettable destination.<br />

Fossicking on the seashore<br />

Cruise West<br />

Cruise West is a family-run business that has<br />

specialised in Alaska cruises for more than 60<br />

years. Operating seven small ships that<br />

accommodate no more than 138 passengers,<br />

they concentrate on providing the most personal<br />

service, the best naturalist guides, the finest food<br />

and most comfortable cabins. The atmosphere<br />

on board is casual and each ship has been<br />

extremely well planned to offer comfortable<br />

dining and lounge areas as well as spacious decks<br />

to let guests make the most of the wonderful<br />

views. Each day brings a new adventure as you<br />

leisurely explore Alaska’s pristine coastal waters,<br />

keeping a look out for whales, seals, bears, sea<br />

otters and bald eagles.<br />

SPIRIT OF OCEANUS<br />

Spirit of Oceanus is Cruise West’s flagship and is<br />

also their most spacious and luxurious vessel, with<br />

stabilizers fitted to ensure a smooth cruise even<br />

in changeable conditions. The ship accommodates<br />

just 120 passengers in comfortable outside suites,<br />

each with a sliding door, picture window or<br />

porthole, a marble bathroom, walk-in wardrobe<br />

and a lounge area. The comfortable public areas<br />

include a lounge, dining room, games room/library<br />

and a sports and sun deck.<br />

Voyage to the Bering Sea<br />

This exceptional 14 day voyage takes you in<br />

comfort from Anchorage through the Bering Sea<br />

and into Russia. Your cruise begins in Whittier as<br />

you pass through glacier-clad Prince William<br />

Sound before travelling along the rugged coastline<br />

of Kenai Fjords National Park. A stop is made at<br />

Kodiak Island where you can visit the Baranof and<br />

Alutiiq museums. At Katmai National Park look<br />

out for grizzly bears digging for clams as you<br />

explore the remote shoreline of Geographic<br />

Harbour. Weather permitting your next stop will<br />

be the Shumagin Islands to explore tidal pools, the<br />

tundra and the Pavlov Volcano as well as looking<br />

for seabirds, seals and sealions on Haystack Rocks.<br />

Your cruise continues along the Aleutian Islands to<br />

Dutch Harbor on Unalaska Island before arriving<br />

at St. George in the Pribilof Islands, a prime<br />

viewing site for fur seals, reindeer and many<br />

species of seabirds. The adventure continues with<br />

stops at remote islands such as Nunivak, where<br />

you may be able to spot musk oxen and caribou.<br />

Having crossed the Bering Sea you arrive in Russia<br />

where you take a tour of Provideniya and explore<br />

the rugged Chukotka Peninsula. In three days of<br />

exploring the region you may also visit Little<br />

Diomede Island, separated by less than three<br />

kilometres from Russia’s Big Diomede, the Yupik<br />

village of Novoye Chaplino, and Yanrakynnot<br />

where Chukchi subsistence hunters go after


A sea otter at play<br />

A spectacular northern sunset<br />

Grizzly bear<br />

Thriving native culture<br />

walrus, whales and other sea creatures. Savoonga<br />

on St. Lawrence Island is hailed as the ‘Walrus<br />

Capital of the World’: the bits of the animals the<br />

natives can’t eat they carve. Continue north as far<br />

as the Arctic Circle with sightings of minke,<br />

humpback and bowhead whales a constant<br />

possibility. Upon arrival in Nome, explore this<br />

colourful little town before leaving on a flight to<br />

Anchorage at the end of your tour.<br />

SPIRIT OF DISCOVERY<br />

The first thing many guests notice when stepping<br />

on board the Spirit of Discovery is the light and<br />

airy Discovery Lounge with a wall of floor-toceiling<br />

windows on three sides. Nearby is the bar<br />

and a library with lovely detailed woodwork. The<br />

ship accommodates a maximum of 84 passengers<br />

and each stateroom has a large picture window,<br />

many of which open. The ship has ample outside<br />

deck space, especially in the bow which is a great<br />

spot to look out for wildlife.<br />

Wilderness Inside Passage<br />

This wilderness cruise takes you to many of<br />

Alaska’s most stunning natural highlights. Set sail<br />

from Juneau to Tracy Arm where sheer cliffs<br />

rise thousands of feet from the waterline to<br />

snow-capped peaks, their sides studded with<br />

stunning waterfalls. Subject to weather conditions,<br />

you can explore this wilderness by zodiac before<br />

the cruise continues to Frederick Sound. These<br />

waters teem with humpback whales, so keep<br />

your binoculars handy. Spirit of Discovery is small<br />

enough to negotiate beautiful Peril Strait to dock<br />

close to the heart of Sitka, your next stop, a jewel<br />

of the Inside Passage with a breathtaking setting<br />

and Russian history. In Icy Strait you may see<br />

humpback whales spouting, sounding and<br />

breaching. Passing the tiny Inian Islands you<br />

arrive at the World Heritage Site of Glacier Bay<br />

National Park, where receding glaciers are<br />

leaving in their wake scoured cliffs and deep<br />

fjords. The most impressive sights here are 4,572<br />

metre-high Mount Fairweather, massive glaciers of<br />

all varieties – hanging, tidewater, valley – and the<br />

birds and Stellar sealions of South Marble Island.<br />

Visits will be made to some remote Alaska<br />

villages to experience life in these isolated<br />

communities before returning to Juneau at the<br />

end of your voyage.<br />

Cruising amidst glaciers<br />

SNOW GOOSE<br />

The 20 metre steel motor vessel Snow Goose was<br />

built in Alaska in 1973 as a private yacht. She sleeps<br />

12 passengers in six private double bedded cabins<br />

sharing three lavatories and two showers. The main<br />

deck features a spacious, airy salon, a library of<br />

natural history books, the galley and a dining area.<br />

Large windows provide great viewing on all sides<br />

and easy access to the deck. The upper bridge deck<br />

provides a lovely vantage point for spotting wildlife<br />

and comfortable seating for passengers who wish<br />

to get involved with the navigation of the ship.<br />

Snow Goose will enable you to explore the natural<br />

history and native American heritage of southeast<br />

Alaska. Highlights include watching humpback<br />

whales, seeing native totem poles, sighting bears<br />

on beaches and travelling up spectacular mountain<br />

fjords to find icebergs and glaciers. Most of the<br />

voyages will be in the Tongass National Forest –<br />

the largest in North America. Daily shore<br />

excursions discover beautiful forest walks, tumbling<br />

waterfalls and walks in alpine meadows. With a<br />

naturalist on board, you will be able to observe the<br />

fascinating wildlife and explore the shoreline for<br />

larger mammals. The itinerary is intentionally flexible<br />

to meet individual interests, weather patterns, and<br />

of course, to take full advantage of wildlife sightings.<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Spirit of Discovery<br />

113


Fur seals on the Pribilof Islands<br />

114<br />

The Pribilof Islands<br />

Lying in the midst of the Bering Sea, the islands<br />

of St. Paul and St. George are together known as<br />

the Pribilof Islands. These desolate, foggy and<br />

windswept islands are overrun with wildlife and<br />

each summer a million fur seals, the largest<br />

gathering of sea mammals in the world, swim<br />

ashore to breed on the dark sand beaches. The<br />

islands’ dizzying ocean cliffs are also home to one<br />

of the largest seabird colonies in the northern<br />

hemisphere, with well over two million birds<br />

ranging from common murres and crested auklets<br />

to tufted puffins and cormorants. The cliffs are<br />

easy to reach and during the summer breeding<br />

months more than 230 species of birds have<br />

been sighted. Two tiny communities here<br />

comprise the world’s largest indigenous Aleut<br />

villages which, along with a rich Russian heritage,<br />

make these islands fascinating to explore.<br />

Prospecting for gold on Nome’s golden beaches<br />

Nome<br />

In many ways Nome is the archetypal Alaskan<br />

town – rough-hewn, fun-loving, a wild west ghost<br />

town that refuses to die. Situated on the rugged<br />

Bering Sea coast and cut off from the continental<br />

road system, Nome is closer to Siberia than to<br />

Anchorage. It was here in 1898 that three<br />

Scandinavians discovered gold at Anvil Creek and<br />

the following year gold was discovered on the<br />

beaches. News of the ‘golden beaches’ spread and<br />

soon 20,000 prospectors flocked to the town that<br />

is now Nome. Wyatt Earp and his wife arrived<br />

here by steamship in 1899 to open the Dexter,<br />

Nome’s largest and most luxurious saloon. He left<br />

two years later with $80,000 – a fortune at that<br />

time. Although much of the original architecture<br />

has been lost and gold mining is no longer a<br />

prominent industry, Nome retains its colourful<br />

character. The town enjoys a scenic setting beside<br />

the Bering Sea and is watched over by Anvil<br />

Mountain. Beside the sea wall lies the Donald<br />

Perkins Memorial Plaza featuring a collection of<br />

old mining detritus including dredge buckets left<br />

over from the 100 or more gold dredges that<br />

once operated here. Each year a variety of events<br />

takes places in this fascinating town, the best<br />

known of which is likely to be the gruelling<br />

Iditarod dog-sled race which ends here<br />

in March. Participants mush their teams across<br />

1,688 kilometres of inhospitable terrain, in freezing<br />

Traditional dress on the Pribilof Islands<br />

temperatures, from Anchorage to this little town<br />

beside the Bering Sea coast. Summer visitors are<br />

more likely to encounter reindeer and musk oxen<br />

which can often be seen grazing on the tundra<br />

outside town. The region is also considered prime<br />

bird-watching territory. There are roads here –<br />

something of a novelty in this part of the world –<br />

and so no trip to Nome is complete without<br />

hiring a pick-up truck to explore.<br />

AURORA INN, NOME<br />

This modern hotel, situated on Front Street, lies<br />

just a short walk from the centre of town. There<br />

are 68 light and spacious guest rooms in a variety<br />

of room types, some with kitchenettes, and<br />

facilities include guest laundry and a sauna.


Drive the<br />

Bering Sea Coast<br />

We invite you to spend three days exploring<br />

one of the most off the beaten track locations<br />

anywhere. The small sub-Arctic communities of<br />

the Seward Peninsula are connected by a series<br />

of well-maintained gravel roads, providing a true<br />

last-frontier adventure for intrepid explorers.<br />

Your base for this trip is Nome, to which you<br />

return each day.<br />

Arctic fox<br />

Day 1<br />

Day 2<br />

Day 3<br />

Fly from Anchorage to Nome<br />

where you collect your 4WD crew<br />

cab pick up truck and drive through<br />

the Kigluaik Mountains to Teller, a<br />

fascinating traditional village.<br />

Today enjoy driving the Nome<br />

to Council Highway which follows<br />

the coastline of the Bering Sea.<br />

The highway ends at the Niukluk<br />

River near the tiny settlement<br />

of Council.<br />

Summer in these latitudes brings<br />

round the clock daylight. <strong>Travel</strong><br />

the Nome to Taylor highway to<br />

Kougarok. Be sure to visit Salmon<br />

Lake or Pilgrim Hot Springs for a<br />

picnic en route. The raw beauty of<br />

the land has to be seen to be<br />

believed and is a delight for bird<br />

and nature lovers.<br />

Abandoned gold dredge<br />

Bering Sea Coast<br />

Radiating around Nome are three gravel roads,<br />

each offering access to very different worlds and<br />

each providing three distinct full-day adventures.<br />

The country here is stunning with sweeping<br />

tundra, crystal clear rivers, rugged mountains and<br />

some of the best chances in Alaska to see caribou,<br />

bears, musk oxen and waterfowl. <strong>Travel</strong>ling in this<br />

remote region does require a degree of planning –<br />

although the roads are well maintained, gravel can<br />

strip tyres so slow going is advised. There are also<br />

no petrol stations outside Nome so do be sure to<br />

fill up each day before your day’s adventure.<br />

Barrow<br />

Close to North America’s most northerly point,<br />

and over 500 kilometres beyond the Arctic Circle,<br />

Puffin<br />

lies the Inuit settlement of Barrow. With about<br />

4,000 residents, mostly the Inupiat people who<br />

have lived here for at least two millennia, the town<br />

is a paradoxical mix of old and new, resulting from<br />

it being the HQ of the corporation that manages<br />

the huge sums of money and land deeded to the<br />

Inuit by the Alaska Native Claims Settlement of<br />

1971. The ancient Inupiat culture thrives here, with<br />

skin whaling boats still used for the spring hunt,<br />

while modern aluminium vessels are used during<br />

the autumn hunt when whalers need to travel<br />

further from home. Traditional whaling secrets are<br />

passed down through the generations, more to<br />

preserve cultural tradition rather than for financial<br />

necessity. Visitors to Barrow, best reached on a<br />

day trip by light aircraft from Fairbanks, will<br />

experience this fascinating culture as well as,<br />

between mid-may and early August, the midnight<br />

sun whilst standing at the continent’s final frontier.<br />

Day 4<br />

Spend the morning touring Nome<br />

and exploring the nearby goldfields.<br />

Drop off your rental car before<br />

boarding the return flight back<br />

to Anchorage.<br />

TAILOR-MADE TRAVEL<br />

Our private tailor-made journeys offer<br />

complete freedom of choice. The itineraries and<br />

accommodation shown are designed to give you a<br />

flavour of what is possible and can be tailored to suit<br />

your preferences. Prices vary according to selected<br />

accommodation and season, please telephone us<br />

to discuss your individual requirements.<br />

Bull caribou in velvet<br />

Alaska<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700<br />

Remote, uninhabited islands<br />

115


New Mill, New Mill Lane, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 9SX, United Kingdom<br />

Telephone: 01993 838 700 • Fax: 01993 838 010<br />

Email: canada@audleytravel.com • Website: www.audleytravel.com<br />

W8501<br />

All of our brochures are printed on paper produced from sustainable resources.<br />

Should you wish to dispose of your brochure, we kindly request that you recycle it.<br />

With special thanks to the following photographers:<br />

A1 Pix, Alamy.co.uk, Alaska <strong>Travel</strong> Industry Association, Canadian Tourism Commission, Churchill Wild, Cruise North Expeditions, Dave Knowles, istockphoto.com,<br />

Ministere du Tourisme de Québec, New Brunswick Tourism and Parks, Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism, Northwest Territories Tourism, Nova Scotia Department of Tourism,<br />

Culture & Heritage, Nunavut Tourism, Ontario Tourism Marketing Partnership Corporation, Photographersdirect.com, Polar Star Expeditions, Quark Expeditions,<br />

Shutterstock.com, Steve Allen, The Adventure Fleet, Tipsimages.com, Tourism British Columbia, Tourism Prince Edward Island, <strong>Travel</strong> Alberta,<br />

<strong>Travel</strong> Manitoba, Tourism Saskatchewan, Wanderlust Images and members of the <strong>Audley</strong> Canada, Alaska & Arctic team.

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