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Warning! Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger. When climbing you can only rely on your skill, training, experience and conditioning. If you have any doubts as to your ability to safely climb any route in this guide, do not try it. This book is neither a professional climbing instructor nor a substitute for one. It is not an instructional book. Do not use it as one. It contains information that is nothing more than a compilation of opinions about climbing the Big Walls in Yosemite Valley. Those opinions are neither facts nor promises. Treat the information as one man’s opinions and nothing more. Do not substitute these opinions for your own common sense and experience. Assumption of Risk There may be errors in this book resulting from the inadvertent mistakes of the author and/or the people with whom he consulted. The information was gathered from a variety of sources, which may not have been independently verified. Those who provided the information may have made mistakes in their descriptions. The author may have made mistakes in his conveyance of the information in this book. He cannot, therefore, guarantee the correctness of any of the information contained in the book. This book was published by the author. No independent publisher checked the contents. The topographical maps, the photo-diagrams, the difficulty ratings, the protection ratings, the approach and/or descending information, the suggestions about equipment and other matters may be incorrect or misleading. Fixed protection may not be where indicated, may be absent, or may be unreliable. You must keep in mind that the information in this book may be erroneous and use your own judgement when choosing, approaching, climbing or descending from a route described in this book. DO NOT USE THIS BOOK UNLESS YOU ASSUME THE RISK OF ITS ERRORS OF REPORTAGE OR OF JUDGMENT AND OF ITS OTHER DEFECTS. Disclaimer of Warranties THE AUTHOR AND PUBLISHER WARNS THAT THIS BOOK CONTAINS ONLY THE AUTHOR’S OPINION ON THE SUBJECTS DISCUSSED. HE MAKE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR PURPOSE, OR OTHERWISE, AND IN ANY EVENT, HIS LIABILITY FOR BREACH OF ANY WARRANTY OR CONTRACT WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENT OF THIS BOOK IS LIMITED TO THE PURCHASE PRICE OF THE BOOK. HE FURTHER LIMITS TO SUCH PURCHASE PRICE HIS LIABILITY ON ACCOUNT OF ANY KIND OF NEGLIGENT BEHAVIOR WHATSOEVER ON HIS PART WITH RESPECT TO THE CONTENTS OF THIS BOOK. COPYRIGHT © 2000 SUPERTOPO LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DUPLICATION PROHIBITED.
PREFACE SuperTopo Mission • Help climbers ascend and descend routes quickly, efficiently, and safely by creating the most accurate and informative climbing topos ever published. • Advocate routes that follow natural lines while discouraging routes that are heavily bolted, enhanced or unsustainable. • Capture the mystery, adventure and humor of climbing by publishing the histories, anecdotes and outrageous stories of each route. • Promote hammerless climbing by publishing the most up to date rack info as well as hammerless ratings for each pitch. • Stress the importance of climbing in good style and promote stewardship of the environment. Visit SuperTopo.com Throughout this book you’ll notice,“For the latest route information, visit www.supertopo.com.” Our website is the definitive resource for the latest SuperTopos— including expanded and updated detail on every route in this book and many more routes. The SuperTopo website includes: • The latest info on every route in this book and many more • Color SuperTopos and color photos, formatted for printing on your inkjet or laser printer • Detailed pitch-by-pitch climbing info and photos for many climbs • Additional SuperTopo products such as our Climber’s Dream-trip Series—selections of climbs in Yosemite and other great climbing areas in North America. Examples include: The Road to the Nose A series of climbs to help you prepare for your first attempt on The Nose. SuperTopos are included for each route as well as an overview written by Chris McNamara offering guidance on how to prepare for The Nose. This package also includes gear recommendations and contact information for climbing guides and instructional courses in Yosemite. In the Footsteps of Legends Repeat the great climbs of Yosemite heroes such as Warren Harding, Tom Frost, Royal Robbins and more by following the SuperTopos in this series. In addition to expanded climbing beta you’ll also find enhanced route histories in this series. Ultimate Roadtrip Series A series of roadtrip itineraries including all the required SuperTopos and beta to introduce you to the best climbs as you visit the most awesome climbing areas. A lot of information on our website is available completely free of charge—including free SuperTopos on the most classic Yosemite routes. Check it out. We hope you’ll also take time to check out our download-able SuperTopo products, such as the Climber’s Dream-trips above, available for online purchase. Visit www.supertopo.com before your next climb. The best and most current info on the route you are planning to climb is probably waiting for you there. Heck, visit us right now. FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM
Page 1: S U P E R T O P O S
Page 5 and 6: Yosemite Valley COPYRIGHT © 2000 S
Page 7 and 8: East Ledges Descent EL CAPITAN wild
Page 9 and 10: to East Ledges raps Galen Rowell/Mo
Page 11 and 12: The Nose EL CAPITAN AS I HAMMERED I
Page 13 and 14: The Nose VI 5.13+ or 5.9 C1 or 5.8
Page 15 and 16: APPENDIX Big Wall Cuisine Breakfast
Page 17: APPENDIX About the Author Chris McN

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