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Wall Tips<br />
H2O Rations (per person per day)<br />
3 quarts: October–May<br />
4 quarts: May, June, September<br />
4+ quarts: July and August<br />
For carrying water, two-liter soda bottles work<br />
best. Two-quart Gatorade bottles also work. These<br />
bottles are sturdy on their own and wrapping<br />
them in duct tape is generally a waste of time and<br />
tape. To clip in the bottles, clove hitch a thin tie-off<br />
under the mouth of the bottle.<br />
Essentials<br />
Helmet The most crucial piece of gear on a big wall.<br />
Handy wipes To clean hands and face at end of<br />
the day.<br />
Small knife For cutting faded slings off fixed pieces.<br />
Gloves Use goat skin gardening gloves or<br />
standard leather gloves with the fingertips cut<br />
off, then reinforced with duct tape to keep<br />
seams from unraveling.<br />
Poop tube It’s the law. Sling some four-inch<br />
diameter PVC pipe and put screw lids on both<br />
ends. Standard four-inch triple wall drainpipe is<br />
a lighter and far less expensive alternative to<br />
PVC. It’s plenty bomber, cuts easily, and accepts<br />
standard PVC fittings. Go in a paper bag, then<br />
drop it in the “vault” with a little kitty litter or<br />
lime to mediate the odor.<br />
Shoes Most wall shoes made by climbing shoe<br />
companies are good; but realize that even the<br />
most durable shoes will get thrashed on a wall.<br />
The cheaper alternative is to buy used hiking<br />
boots. A liberal coating of Seam Grip on the<br />
seams and rand of your wall shoes will make<br />
them last much longer.<br />
GriGri<br />
Waulhauler<br />
Stuff sacks with clip-in loops<br />
Duct tape It holds the world together.<br />
Leeper cam hooks Save time and the rock; once<br />
you get over the initial fear of using them, you<br />
will wonder how you ever climbed without them.<br />
Bolt Kit<br />
Used for replacing bad anchor bolts or broken<br />
lead bolts. In general, you do not need a bolt kit<br />
on hammerless routes. Machine heads are no<br />
longer recommended for rivets because they are<br />
difficult to place properly; thus, they become<br />
unreliable on future ascents. They are also<br />
impossible to replace. After heads have rusted,<br />
they need to be chopped, and subsequently, new<br />
holes have to be drilled. The standard rivet in<br />
Yosemite is either the Rawl Drive or Rawl Spike<br />
¼" by one inch.<br />
Equipment list<br />
Bolt bag (or use chalk bag or stuff sack), hand<br />
drill, blow tube, test-tube brush (used to clean<br />
holes), crescent wrench, ¼" x 1¼" Rawl Drive<br />
bolts or Rawl Spike bolts, ⅜" x 2¼" stainless<br />
Rawl bolts (a.k.a five piece), or stainless Fixé<br />
bolts, ¼" and ⅜" drill bits.<br />
Note: Each SDS bit is generally good for<br />
8–15 holes.<br />
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