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The Nose continued VI 5.13+ or 5.9 C1 or 5.8 C2 EL CAPITAN 8 140' Rack nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful) micro nuts: 1-2 ea (offsets useful) cams: 3 ea .5-1" 2-3 ea 1.5-3.5" 1 ea 4.5" 5.11c or 5.7 C1 tension traverse 5.9 or C2 .6- 2" 5.10 or C2 90' 2 Entering The Stovelegs A is the original route and the most popular. B and C are fast and good ways to pass slower parties. 5.9 or C1 Sickle Ledge OK bivy for 2 3 100' rope eating flake! 100' 4 80' 6 5.9 bulge or C1 120' 5 4th 5.9 or C1 Dolt Hole 100' 7 5.8 or C1 5.12a Fix four 50m or three 60m ropes to ground. There are bolt stations every 50m. A B belay takes .5-3" 5.9 lb or C1 C 5.10d or 5.9 A0 var 5.6 loose four more 50m raps to ground The Stovelegs 5.8 hands 10b move 90' 17 left or C1 don’t go right up here! 5.10c or C1 .6-2" 90' Eagle Ledge 10a lb or C1 .6-3" 90' 5.9 face 5.11c fingers or C1 5.9 fist or C1 two short swings or one long swing by lowering about 15' below Boot 10a ow or C1 5.12a 4.5" King Swing Jardine Traverse 50' many 2-4.5" OK bivy for 1 16 130' Boot Flake C1 Texas Flake 5.7 13 100' 100' 14 5.10c hands or C1 .75-3.5" 15 110' 5.8 chimney (easiest on west end) 5.9 or C1 over chockstones 5.9 or C1 El Cap Tower plush bivy for 4-6 Salathé 5.11a 130' 1 5.10 or C1+ 5.10d or C1 .5- 3" 5.11b or C1 5.10c fingers or C1 platform Approach: From El Cap Bridge walk west 1/8 mile to a trail that leads to the Southeast Buttress of El Cap. From here either follow A, the recommended route or B, the fast but exposed route. Dolt Tower bivy 2 comfy, 4 okay 140' 11 5.10c ow or C1 4.5" 5.10b fist or C1 4" 3.5" 5.8 fist or C1 3" belay 10 130' takes 1-3" 12 100' belay takes 1-3" 5.8 or C1 5.7 squeeze From Dolt Tower do eight 50m raps to the ground on chain anchors. First three raps are within ten feet of the Stovelegs. The last five raps are out on the blank face east of the route. Pine Line 5.7 A 5.5 T O E O F S. E 4th exposed 4th B . B U T T R E S S loose 5.8 or p C1 gully p 5.9 lb 2-4.5" 1-3" 9 70' 5.10 ow or C1 4.5" The Stovelegs 8 COPYRIGHT © 2000 SUPERTOPO LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. DUPLICATION PROHIBITED.
The Nose VI 5.13+ or 5.9 C1 or 5.8 C2 EL CAPITAN 80' 23 110' 5.11c or C1 shuttle gear to tree 120' 31 5.5 Great Roof 5.13+ or C1 10a lb or C1 5.7 Pancake Flake 22 120' 5.12c boulder problem crux C1 steep 5.12a var. 5.11b var. haul here for less drag 1-3" 28 100' 5.8 hands or C1 5.11d or C1 70' 30 5.10d or C1 27 150' 100' 20 5.11c or C1 1-3" p 5.10a or C1 rap route 5.9 or C1 5.7 Camp IV poor bivy for 2 5.10a var. 19 120' OK bivy for 1 rap route (angle east, two raps to Dolt Tower) .5-2" 21 110' 5.7 5.12 or 5.10 A0 var. 50m from 50m to 5.10b or C1 19 22 60m from 22 60m to optional belay .5-2" 5.10d or C1 18 120' belay takes .5-2" .75-2.5" Camp V sharp 17 110' 24 if retreating from between 17 and 18, rappel down Jardine Traverse fixed 1-3" 1-3" 5.10c or C1 5.10d lb or C1 5.10d 28 alcove 29 130' good bivy for 2 best hauling many nuts good bivy 2 5.7 .75-2.5" 5.11 AO var. Changing Corners Camp VI ok bivy for 2 5.11b or C1+ 110' 25 move right 5.7 or C1 ok bivy for 1 1-3" 5.10d or C1 5.7 or C1 ok bivy for 1 5.12d or C1 5.9 hands or C1 5.13+ or C1 sharp edge cross at low bolt 26 150' ok bivy for 1 1.5-3" Glowering Spot 3' x 3' ledge Keep Camp VI clean! 23 5.11a or C1+ awk. FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT SUPERTOPO.COM
Page 1 and 2: S U P E R T O P O S
Page 3 and 4: PREFACE SuperTopo Mission • Help
Page 5 and 6: Yosemite Valley COPYRIGHT © 2000 S
Page 7 and 8: East Ledges Descent EL CAPITAN wild
Page 9 and 10: to East Ledges raps Galen Rowell/Mo
Page 11: The Nose EL CAPITAN AS I HAMMERED I
Page 15 and 16: APPENDIX Big Wall Cuisine Breakfast
Page 17: APPENDIX About the Author Chris McN

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