S U P E R T O P O S

The Nose continued
VI 5.13+ or 5.9 C1 or 5.8 C2
EL CAPITAN
8 140'
Rack
nuts: 2 ea (offsets useful)
micro nuts: 1-2 ea (offsets useful)
cams: 3 ea .5-1"
2-3 ea 1.5-3.5"
1 ea 4.5"
5.11c or 5.7 C1
tension traverse
5.9
or C2
.6- 2"
5.10
or C2
90' 2
Entering The Stovelegs
A is the original route and the
most popular. B and C are
fast and good ways to pass
slower parties.
5.9 or C1
Sickle Ledge
OK bivy for 2
3 100'
rope eating
flake!
100' 4
80' 6
5.9 bulge
or C1
120' 5
4th
5.9 or C1
Dolt Hole
100' 7
5.8 or C1
5.12a
Fix four 50m
or three 60m
ropes to ground.
There are bolt
stations every
50m.
A
B
belay
takes .5-3"
5.9 lb
or C1
C 5.10d or
5.9 A0 var
5.6
loose
four more 50m
raps to ground
The Stovelegs
5.8
hands 10b move
90' 17 left or C1
don’t go
right up
here!
5.10c
or C1
.6-2"
90'
Eagle Ledge
10a lb or C1
.6-3"
90'
5.9 face
5.11c fingers
or C1
5.9 fist
or C1
two short swings
or one long swing by lowering
about 15' below Boot
10a ow
or C1
5.12a
4.5"
King
Swing
Jardine
Traverse
50'
many 2-4.5"
OK bivy for 1
16 130'
Boot
Flake
C1
Texas Flake
5.7
13 100'
100' 14
5.10c hands
or C1
.75-3.5"
15 110'
5.8 chimney
(easiest on
west end)
5.9 or C1 over
chockstones
5.9 or C1
El Cap
Tower
plush bivy
for 4-6
Salathé
5.11a
130' 1
5.10
or C1+
5.10d or C1
.5- 3"
5.11b or C1
5.10c fingers
or C1
platform
Approach: From El Cap Bridge
walk west 1/8 mile to a trail
that leads to the Southeast
Buttress of El Cap. From here either
follow A, the recommended route
or B, the fast but exposed route.
Dolt Tower
bivy 2 comfy, 4 okay
140' 11
5.10c ow or C1
4.5"
5.10b fist
or C1
4"
3.5"
5.8 fist or C1
3"
belay
10 130' takes 1-3"
12 100' belay
takes 1-3"
5.8 or C1
5.7
squeeze
From Dolt Tower do eight 50m raps
to the ground on chain anchors.
First three raps are within ten feet
of the Stovelegs. The last five raps
are out on the blank face east of
the route.
Pine
Line
5.7
A
5.5
T O E O F S. E
4th
exposed
4th
B
. B U T T R E S S
loose
5.8 or p
C1 gully p
5.9 lb
2-4.5"
1-3"
9 70'
5.10 ow or C1
4.5"
The Stovelegs
8
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