Culinary Connoisseurs - New Orleans City Business
Culinary Connoisseurs - New Orleans City Business
Culinary Connoisseurs - New Orleans City Business
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2 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
<strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong><br />
Inside:<br />
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5<br />
Past honorees . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6<br />
<strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong><br />
event photos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20<br />
Best Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Arnaud’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7<br />
Emeril’s Delmonico . . . . . . . . . . . .8<br />
Muriel’s Jackson Square . . . . . . .8<br />
Ralph’s on the Park . . . . . . . . . . .9<br />
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse . . . . . . .9<br />
Best Casual Upscale Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Café Giovanni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10<br />
Clancy’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10<br />
Cochon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11<br />
Dick and Jenny’s . . . . . . . . . . . .11<br />
Herbsaint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12<br />
Best Neighborhood Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Bear’s Po-Boys . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13<br />
La Petite Grocery . . . . . . . . . . . .13<br />
Mandina’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14<br />
Parasol’s Restaurant and Bar . . .14<br />
Radosta’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15<br />
Salvo’s Seafood and Deli . . . . . .15<br />
Best <strong>New</strong> Restaurants<br />
Hostel <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> . . . . . . . . . .16<br />
Latil’s Landing . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16<br />
Restaurant Amis . . . . . . . . . . . . .17<br />
Restaurant Rambla . . . . . . . . . . .18<br />
Best Caterers<br />
Joel Catering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19<br />
LaBella’s Catering . . . . . . . . . . . .19<br />
Best Owners<br />
John Besh and<br />
Octavio Mantilla . . . . . . . . . . . .25<br />
Dickie Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25<br />
Ralph Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26<br />
Emeril Lagasse . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26<br />
Duke LoCicero . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27<br />
Best Executive Chefs<br />
Scott Boswell . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27<br />
Justin Devillier . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28<br />
Tenney Flynn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28<br />
Brian Landry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29<br />
Gus Martin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29<br />
Jacques Saleun . . . . . . . . . . . . .30<br />
David Slater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30<br />
Best Sous Chefs<br />
Emanuel Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31<br />
Brandon Muetzel . . . . . . . . . . . .31<br />
Alfred Singleton . . . . . . . . . . . . .32<br />
Heather Young . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32<br />
Best Sommeliers<br />
Joe Briand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33<br />
Best Pastry Chefs<br />
Simone Fleming . . . . . . . . . . . . .33<br />
Tariq Hanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34<br />
Andre McKendall . . . . . . . . . . . .34<br />
Laurent Moecklin . . . . . . . . . . . .35<br />
Marguerite Riehm . . . . . . . . . . . .35<br />
Best Maitre D’s<br />
Michael Juan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36<br />
Legend<br />
Ella Brennan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36<br />
Lifetime Achievement<br />
Sterling Constant . . . . . . . . . . . .37<br />
Bob and Sandy Defelice . . . . . . .37<br />
Shirley Lee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38<br />
Jorge Pesantes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38<br />
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Suite 1440, Metairie, La. 70005<br />
(504)834-9292; Fax: (504)837-2258<br />
Publisher and president: D. Mark Singletary<br />
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Latil’s Landing Restaurant<br />
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<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 3
s p o n s o r e d b y :<br />
THE GLAZER’S COMPANIES OF LOUISIANA IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT<br />
IT HAS BEEN SELECTED TO DISTRIBUTE KETEL ONE VODKA IN LOUISIANA.<br />
The Nolet family has distilled Ketel One Vodka for over 300 years at the Nolet Distillery in<br />
Schiedam, Holland. Ketel One Vodka is distilled from 100% wheat in alembic copper pot stills,<br />
filtered over loose charcoal, and rests in tile lined tanks until ready. Ketel One Vodka<br />
is consistently named one of the world’s top spirits for quality and taste.<br />
Ketel One Vodka is named after the original, copper pot still, “Distilleerketel #1,”<br />
and is handcrafted in small batches. The alcohol content of this spirit is 80 proof.<br />
4 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Introduction<br />
Cream of the Crop<br />
recognized for<br />
Tasty contributions<br />
VÉÇzÜtàâÄtà|ÉÇá<br />
to EMERIL LAGASSE<br />
EMERIL’S DELMONICO<br />
and Chef DAVID SLATER of Emeril’s <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
for being chosen as a <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> <strong>Culinary</strong> Connoisseur!<br />
Christian Moises<br />
<strong>New</strong>s Editor<br />
FOOD — FOR MOST OF US — is one of the top<br />
perks of living in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. It’s also one of<br />
the most prevalent talking points.<br />
When we go out for lunch or dinner, someone<br />
inevitably brings up the new restaurant around the<br />
corner, where they ate last night or where they’re<br />
going tomorrow evening. This conversation usually<br />
leads to a string of restaurants being named or<br />
how great their gumbo is.<br />
It’s only fitting we raise a glass to the restaurants<br />
and people who make those conversations so tasty<br />
with <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>, recognizing 50 professionals<br />
and establishments in the region’s culinary industry based on<br />
cuisine, business success and community involvement.<br />
Honorees were divided into 13 categories: fine dining, casual upscale<br />
dining, neighborhood dining, new restaurants, caterers, owners, executive<br />
chefs, sous chefs, pastry chefs, sommeliers, maitre d’s, legends and<br />
lifetime achievement.<br />
Many people are familiar with John Besh, Emeril Lagasse and the<br />
Brennan family, but what about The Ritz-Carlton’s cupcake expert<br />
Simone Fleming or Palace Café soux chef Brandon Muetzel, whose<br />
favorite ingredient is the egg<br />
Did you know La Petite Grocery executive chef Justin Devillier enjoys<br />
eating homemade tacos Sterling Constant, who’s been at Antoine’s for<br />
almost 42 years, can tell if a table is out of place by looking at the leg.<br />
Sucre pastry chef Tariq Hanna’s guilty pleasure is Little Debbie Swiss<br />
Rolls right out of the fridge.<br />
The people profiled in the following pages are the people who make<br />
our culinary industry so famous, so successful and one of the biggest reasons<br />
people worldwide know us and visit our region.<br />
In addition to countless hours of community service their staffs provide<br />
to the community, they’ve also made a commitment to support our local<br />
producers by frequenting area farmer’s markets and seafood suppliers.<br />
<strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> thanks each of them not only for their tasty contributions,<br />
but for their commitment to the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> area.<br />
Congratulations to the <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong> of 2009.•<br />
<strong>New</strong>s Editor Christian Moises can be reached at 293-9249 or by e-mail<br />
at christian.moises@nopg.com.<br />
800 Tchoupitoulas<br />
504.528.9393<br />
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Taking CAIRE of Hospitality<br />
Congratulations to the 2009 <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>!<br />
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<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 5
<strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong><br />
2008 Honorees<br />
Best Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Antoine’s Restaurant<br />
The Dakota Restaurant<br />
August<br />
Best Casual Upscale<br />
Dining Establishments<br />
Drago’s Seafood Restaurant<br />
Lüke<br />
Sal and Judy’s<br />
Tommy’s Cuisine<br />
Best Neighborhood<br />
Dining Establishments<br />
Blue Duck Café<br />
Byblos Restaurant<br />
Deanie’s Seafood —<br />
Bucktown<br />
Mother’s Restaurant<br />
Best <strong>New</strong> Restaurants<br />
5 Fifty 5<br />
Lüke<br />
MiLa<br />
Nathan’s Restaurant<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>City</strong> Grille<br />
Best Caterers<br />
Fleur de lis <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
Cuisine<br />
Food Art<br />
Martin Wine Cellar<br />
Patton’s Caterers<br />
Best Owners<br />
John Besh<br />
Tommy Cvitanovich<br />
The Tastebuds:<br />
Greg Reggio, Hans Limburg,<br />
Gary Darling<br />
Best Executive Chefs<br />
Rene Bajeux<br />
John Besh<br />
Kim Kringlie<br />
Brian Landry<br />
Donald Link<br />
Duke LoCicero<br />
Spencer Minch<br />
Darin Nesbit<br />
Mike Regua<br />
Susan Spicer<br />
Best Sous Chefs<br />
William Briand<br />
Larry Herbert<br />
Mike Nelson<br />
Best Sommeliers<br />
Michael Juan<br />
Chris Ycaza<br />
Best Pastry Chefs<br />
Beth Biundo<br />
Tariq Hanna<br />
Chris <strong>New</strong>ton<br />
Best Maitre D’s<br />
Robin Bordelon<br />
Vedran Komazec<br />
Sergio Lopez<br />
Legends<br />
Leah Chase<br />
Paul Prudhomme<br />
Lifetime<br />
Achievement<br />
Shirley Anthony<br />
Marie Laborde<br />
Dalton Milton<br />
Shirley Rubin<br />
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(504) 293-9724 • email: moique.brignac@nopg.com<br />
6 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Arnaud’s<br />
Interview with vice president Katy Casbarian<br />
813 Bienville St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Tommy DiGiovanni<br />
Opened:<br />
1918<br />
Price range:<br />
Entrees range between $25 and $39, with an inclusive cost for<br />
the average diner of about $75.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Creole<br />
Noted for:<br />
We’re probably best known for our Shrimp Arnaud, our flagship<br />
appetizer. It’s basically a shrimp remoulade, but we took<br />
out the mayonnaise base and made it a tangy, mustard-based<br />
remoulade.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We are involved with the Lighthouse for the Blind, and we sit on<br />
the French Quarter <strong>Business</strong> Association board. We also have a<br />
strong commitment to the state and local board of the Louisiana<br />
Restaurant Association, whose educational foundation provides<br />
culinary education to students throughout the state.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
One of the biggest milestones for this restaurant was my father<br />
purchasing it from the Casenave family in 1978. He bought the<br />
restaurant when it was on the brink of shutting down and<br />
restored it to its original grandeur. We were really fortunate that<br />
the majority of our dedicated management team returned to<br />
work after the hurricanes of 2005. Their presence is what makes<br />
the restaurant what it is. More recently, we were excited to serve<br />
as a film set for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button.”<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We’ve hosted a number of U.S. presidents, including Ronald<br />
Reagan, George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton. Presidents Bush<br />
and Clinton ate together, and the reception they received was<br />
bigger than that of any celebrity guests we’ve served. Brad Pitt<br />
and Angelina Jolie have eaten here, but our staff especially<br />
loves hosting Drew Brees, a real local hero.<br />
Matthew Downs, left, and Derek Licero<br />
chat over drinks at Arnaud’s.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My father. Always has been and always will be, in this industry<br />
and outside of it.•<br />
— Tom Leggett<br />
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<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 7
Best<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Emeril’s Delmonico<br />
Interview with president and chief operating officer Eric Linquest<br />
829 St. Charles Ave., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Spencer Minch<br />
Opened:<br />
1998<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $6 and $12 for starters, and between $24 and $35 for<br />
main courses.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
We serve modern Creole cuisine. It’s a little more traditional<br />
than Emeril’s, but still contemporary Creole.<br />
Noted for:<br />
There’s a couple. There’s an appetizer we’re really known for —<br />
the braised pork cheeks with Creole dirty rice. We have a wellknown<br />
charcuterie, or cured meat, program. We cure a lot of our<br />
own meats. We’re really well known for our steaks — dry-aged<br />
prime steaks, all USDA prime meat and we dry it in house.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
All of our restaurants, including Emeril’s Delmonico, do our<br />
community involvement through our foundation. We also<br />
support Café Reconcile and the Emeril Lagasse Foundation,<br />
and we do a lot of fundraisers for schools throughout the city.<br />
We’re also involved with the United Way.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Our fifth- and 10th-year anniversaries were big milestones. We<br />
haven’t kept track of our millionth customer or those sorts of<br />
things. Between the hurricane and what it did to the city and<br />
now what the economy’s done, we’re just happy we’re still<br />
here to serve the people of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Mayor C. Ray Nagin, former Mayor Marc Morial and various<br />
Saints and Hornets players and coaches.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
Probably Emeril himself. He convinced me I had a talent for<br />
the business and that I should take advantage of the years of<br />
experience I had acquired. (I had worked in the restaurant<br />
industry for years but was considering a career change.)<br />
Emeril asked me in 1990 to join him in opening his first<br />
restaurant as general manager, and for me it has been a career<br />
and life-changing experience to be a part of his growth and<br />
success.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
Best<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Muriel’s Jackson Square<br />
Interview with co-owner Rick Gratia<br />
801 Chartres St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Gus Martin<br />
Opened:<br />
2001<br />
Price range:<br />
For lunch, appetizers range between $6 and $9 while entrees<br />
run between $10 and $20. At dinner, appetizers run between<br />
$7 and $11, while entrees cost between $15 and $35.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Contemporary Creole<br />
Noted for:<br />
We have about five signature items on our menu, but probably our<br />
top item is the pecan-crusted puppy drum served with either crawfish<br />
or crab relish. Close behind are our barbecue shrimp, stuffed<br />
redfish with crabmeat dressing, and Gus makes a mean gumbo.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We do 30 to 40 offsite events a year and help a lot of local<br />
organizations. I’m from here, and my partner and I have the<br />
same philosophy of getting very involved in local events and<br />
organizations and always giving back to the community. Some<br />
of the organizations we help out include the Le Petit Theatre,<br />
the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, the University of <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong>, Mount Carmel Academy, the American Cancer<br />
Society, Meals on Wheels and Bridge House.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Our biggest milestone is that we have remained a locals’ place —<br />
about 75 percent of our business is local — even though we are in<br />
the heart of the French Quarter. We are proud to play an important<br />
role in the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> and French Quarter community.<br />
From left: Muriel’s Jackson Square executive chef Gus Martin serves lunch to Roshna and Ed Keen.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Kate Hudson, Britney Spears, Paul Simon, Sharon Osbourne,<br />
Wayne Gretzky and Nicholas Cage.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I grew up in the business. My family owned a seafood restaurant,<br />
Fontana’s, in West End Park, and they sold out in 1978.<br />
I spent time at Court of Two Sisters, then 17 years with the<br />
Brennans and then my partner and I bought Muriel’s. I have<br />
just always loved being in the food industry.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
8 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Ralph’s on the park<br />
Interview with Haley Bittermann, Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group director<br />
of operations and corporate executive chef<br />
900 <strong>City</strong> Park Ave., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Chip Flanagan<br />
Opened:<br />
2003<br />
Price range:<br />
Appetizers range between $7 and $14, entrees run between<br />
$18 and $39, desserts average about $8 and our current sunset<br />
dining special, which includes three courses after 5 p.m.<br />
Sunday through Thursday, costs $25.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Innovative contemporary Creole<br />
Noted for:<br />
The baked oysters and turtle soup are our most popular items on<br />
the menu, but I think what Ralph’s is most noted for and what a<br />
huge part of our business comes from is the private party space.<br />
We were originally built with hosting private parties in mind.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We’re really proud of how many local nonprofits, charities and<br />
other organizations we support, such as <strong>City</strong> Park and the<br />
farmer’s market, by buying from local vendors and volunteering<br />
our time over. Our employees are encouraged to volunteer within<br />
the community and really focus on giving back.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We just made five years in December, and I think our biggest<br />
milestone was reopening the November after Hurricane<br />
Katrina. We became a meeting place for neighbors, where they<br />
could go to grab a drink and get some food, spend time with one<br />
another and be their release. It was real gratifying to bring that<br />
service to them in their time of need.<br />
Callie Strickland and Richard Kidd enjoy Ralph’s on the Park’s American Chocolate Trio dessert.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
John McCain, Laura Bush and Allan Touissant<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I started out at Mr. B’s Bistro on a pre-graduation externship,<br />
and I have been with Ralph Brennan Restaurant<br />
Group for 17 years. There is an amazing passion within<br />
himself and his family for this industry and this city, and<br />
you don't find that often.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
Best<br />
Fine Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse<br />
Interview with general manager Mike Miller<br />
3633 Veterans Blvd., Metairie<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Pat Gallagher<br />
Opened:<br />
The original location on Broad Street opened in 1965, and<br />
the Metairie location opened in 1972.<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $50 and $75<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Contemporary Creole<br />
Ruth’s Chris<br />
Steakhouse servers<br />
Nicole Strassel, left,<br />
and Terry Boullion<br />
deliver entrees to<br />
Frank Rodriguez and<br />
Marcia Sosa.<br />
Noted for:<br />
That’s obviously the sizzling steaks. That is a signature thing<br />
known throughout the country. We’ve also been known as a powerhouse<br />
lunch-type restaurant. A lot of people come here to celebrate,<br />
too.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We donate gift certificates and auction items for schools and<br />
participate in a lot of the local events such as the Fore Kids<br />
Foundation with the Zurich Classic. Other events include Taste<br />
of the Town, which benefits Lafreniere Park, and the Dennis<br />
Leary Foundation to help rebuild <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> fire stations<br />
after Hurricane Katrina.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
One of our more recent milestones was reopening in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
in May. That was something that was needed and something we<br />
wanted to do because we started here in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. There was<br />
just no way we couldn’t have another Ruth’s Chris in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
And for being a local restaurant that started in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> that has<br />
become the largest fine-dining chain in the country, to be able to<br />
take credit from a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> standpoint is a major milestone.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Everyone who walks through the door is special, but it’s a nice<br />
honor to have a lot of the local celebrities who frequent the<br />
restaurant. Fats Domino was here after the storm. Allen<br />
Toussaint, Harry Connick Jr. and sports guys like Archie and<br />
Peyton Manning, Reggie Bush and Chris Paul.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I started when I was 17 and I’ve been here for about 13<br />
years. I just love the industry because I have worked with a<br />
lot of great people and you get to meet a variety of guests.•<br />
— Craig Guillot<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 9
Best Casual<br />
Upscale<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Café Giovanni<br />
Interview with manager Nial George<br />
117 Decatur St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Duke LoCicero<br />
Opened:<br />
1991<br />
Price range:<br />
Our appetizers start at $11 and go to $15. Salads run between<br />
$8.95 and $14.95, while entrees range from $21.95 to $36.95.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
We call it <strong>New</strong> World Italian — basically Italian dishes as well as<br />
Creole, but we but we add a variety of sauces as well as fresh ingredients<br />
to enhance those dishes. The end result is Italian and<br />
Creole food done in a way that is totally unique and different.<br />
Nial George, left,<br />
and Stephanie<br />
Fisher enjoy dinner<br />
at Café Giovanni.<br />
Noted for:<br />
In-demand menu items include the restaurant’s Shrimp Fra<br />
Diablo, Cajun angel hair and Pasta Gambino. But the most popular<br />
item is Cafe Giovanni’s Duck Classico. It’s a roasted half<br />
duck served with sweet marsala garlic glaze and served with<br />
mashed potatoes and vegetables. Our customers love it.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
Our big project is the Chef Duke’s Foundation for Kids, which is<br />
a big drive we sponsor every year at the restaurant to raise money<br />
for things like Children’s Hospital. Sometimes the money goes to<br />
different types of equipment that might be needed at the hospital,<br />
and other times just for things like toys for the children.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
I think it would undoubtedly be the aftermath of Katrina.<br />
Because we are located in the French Quarter, we did not have<br />
a lot of flooding, probably less than a foot. But Chef Duke<br />
thought it was important to get life back to normal as quickly<br />
as possible. As a result, this was one of the first restaurants to<br />
reopen just a few weeks after the storm.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
NBA All-Star Larry Bird, R&B artist Usher and Mayor C. Ray<br />
Nagin. We get a lot of local politicians and leaders, members of<br />
the state Legislature and even other well-known restaurateurs,<br />
which is a beautiful thing.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I’ve been in the industry since 2003.My goal was to learn everything<br />
possible about the business, as far as the front and the back of the<br />
house goes, so that someday I might open my own bar and lounge.•<br />
— Garry Boulard<br />
Best Casual<br />
Upscale<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Clancy’s<br />
Interview with owner Brad Hollingsworth<br />
6100 Annunciation St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Steve Manning<br />
Opened:<br />
1983 in its current form, but Clancy’s was also a neighborhood<br />
restaurant and bar since the late 1940s.<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $21 and $32<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Creole<br />
Noted for:<br />
Probably seafood, soft shell crabs and crabmeat dishes.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We pride ourselves on not changing. We’re a very traditional<br />
restaurant. What we do, we do 365 days a year. We don’t flow<br />
with the most current trends. We don’t have a Web site. We’re<br />
old fashioned.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Recently, James Carville and Mary Matalin. We make an effort to<br />
treat celebrities like local customers. We don’t put their pictures<br />
on the wall.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I grew up in Des Moines, Iowa, came here in 1973 and fell in love<br />
with <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> restaurants. I worked at the Pontchartrain<br />
Hotel, LeRuth’s and Galatoire’s. I always wanted to own one<br />
myself and I got the opportunity.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
Jennifer Henry, left, and Mary Larson share a bottle<br />
of wine during a dinner at Clancy’s.<br />
10 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best Casual<br />
Upscale<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
cochon<br />
Interview with manager Audrey Rodriguez<br />
930 Tchoupitoulas St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link are co-owners and<br />
executive chefs.<br />
Opened:<br />
2006<br />
Price range:<br />
Lunch can range between $8 and $18, while dinner can run<br />
between $8 and $24.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Authentic Cajun<br />
Noted for:<br />
We’re noted for bringing moonshine to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. People love<br />
our authentic Cajun food and pork.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
Cochon participates regularly in events that support the community<br />
and charity organizations, including our annual Cochon<br />
Cotillion for Bridge House, the Louisiana SPCA’s Howling<br />
Success and the Audubon Nature Center’s Zoo-to-Do.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
The 2007 James Beard Best <strong>New</strong> Restaurant Award<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We’ve had several actors, including Cameron Diaz, Ewan<br />
McGregor, Brad Pitt, Vince Vaughn and Renee Zellweger,<br />
writer J.K. Rowling and celebrity chefs Mario Batali, Daniel<br />
Boulud, Tom Colicchio, Elizabeth Falkner, Alice Waters and<br />
Andrew Zimmern.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
It’s all about the joy of providing delicious food in a comfortable<br />
setting so everyone can escape, celebrate and feel good.•<br />
— Diana Chandler<br />
Honeymooners Jon and Ivy Reinecker share lunch at Cochon.<br />
Best Casual<br />
Upscale<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Dick & jenny’s<br />
Interview with owner Will Peters<br />
4501 Tchoupitoulas St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Tim Swepston<br />
Opened:<br />
1999<br />
Price range:<br />
Our entrees go from about $15 to $35.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
It’s Creole eclectic. Right now, we’re doing a filé gumbo with a<br />
seafood meat pie. We like to run with the old Louisiana favorites<br />
and throw a new twist on them. We get influences from all over<br />
and just fuse them with good down home food.<br />
Dick and Jenny’s server Alba<br />
Houston drops off dessert to<br />
Cecelia Rose Wheeler, who was<br />
visiting from Boise, Idaho, with<br />
her mother Jeanmarie Wheeler.<br />
Noted for:<br />
People are very fond of our fried oysters with Creole remoulade.<br />
Our best selling entrée is the bronze pork tenderloin stuffed with<br />
goat cheese and pine nuts then topped with a warm tomato balsamic<br />
vinaigrette. We change our menu every three months.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
The majority of it is through Tipitina’s. Every year we donate<br />
food for Instruments a’ Comin, a private event that helps children<br />
of city schools get instruments for marching bands. We<br />
also do some SPCA events and donate gift certificates to<br />
schools around town.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
When we bought the restaurant in 2005, my wife and I worked<br />
there from the day they opened. We were very lucky at the right<br />
place at the right time.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
The most famous would have to be Robert Plant. He thought<br />
our escargot was too salty, but then again he’s British. Just<br />
recently we had Warren Riley. We’ve also had Steve Zahn,<br />
Marisa Tomei, Jim Belushi and some others.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
First, it was really just to pay the bills when I was in college. My<br />
realm in the restaurant is more of the wine and service aspect.<br />
What really drives me every day are the customers. It just brings<br />
a smile to my face to hear from customers that everything was<br />
perfect. I owe that to my staff and my chef.•<br />
— Craig Guillot<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 11
Best Casual<br />
Upscale<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
herbsaint<br />
Interview with manager Colin O’Neill<br />
701 St. Charles Ave., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Donald Link<br />
Opened:<br />
2000<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $45 and $50 for dinner<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Southern, with French and Italian accents<br />
Noted for:<br />
The gumbo. We cure and smoke our own our andouille and tasso<br />
that we use to make the gumbo. It’s a real dark-roux kind of<br />
gumbo, and we do that with seafood, duck or chicken, and then<br />
add the andouille and tasso. There are some things we just can’t<br />
take off the menu, such as the fried frog legs with chili butter,<br />
because people love them so much. We also have a duck leg confit<br />
with dirty rice and a little citrus gastrique that’s been on the menu<br />
since opening day, and it’s just immovable.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
Being in the Arts District, we do a lot with Julia Street. We’ve<br />
done a lot with artist Kirsha Kaechele with KK Projects. We also<br />
do stuff with PhotoNOLA, the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Museum of Art<br />
and <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Ballet. Donald’s kids go to École Bilingue de<br />
la Nouvelle <strong>Orleans</strong> (French immersion school), and we more<br />
or less put on the Fête Française every year.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We opened the first week of October after Katrina. We were<br />
probably the second or third restaurant to open. Other places<br />
were serving red beans and rice and hamburgers, and we<br />
opened with a full dinner menu doing the stuff we normally do.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Jeremiah Towers, the famous chef from San Francisco, Cate<br />
Blanchett, Steven Soderbergh, Tim Blake Nelson and James<br />
LeGros. Then there’s all the local and national musicians. Mayor<br />
C. Ray Nagin comes in every now and again when he’s in town.<br />
And it’s a who’s who of judges and lawyers.<br />
Chuck Bourque and Melanie Lagarde<br />
take advantage of the weather during<br />
a recent lunch at Herbsaint.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
One of the great things about this restaurant is that we’re so centrally<br />
located that we get people from Uptown, Downtown, the<br />
<strong>Business</strong> District, tourists, everything. It’s a big old melting pot,<br />
just like the rest of the city.•<br />
— Leah Bartos<br />
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12 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Bear’s Po-Boys<br />
Interview with owner and executive chef Josh Watson<br />
128 W. 21st Ave., Covington<br />
PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Josh Watson<br />
Opened:<br />
January 1977 in Mandeville. It was my parents — Judy and Ronald<br />
Watson — who started the business. I worked in it part-time until<br />
1981 and took the business over fully about two years later. In 1990,<br />
we moved our operation to Covington, where we have stayed.<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $5.50 and $10<br />
Cuisine:<br />
It is all po-boys. We have the traditional roast beef and barbecue<br />
beef po-boys, as well as shrimp po-boys. We started doing the<br />
shrimp po-boys after we moved to Covington, and during Lent<br />
we can’t sell enough of them. We also make something called the<br />
Ferdie, which is a po-boy with roast beef, ham and Swiss cheese.<br />
From left: Customers<br />
Kathy Fielding-Smith and<br />
Judy Fielding are greeted<br />
by Bear’s Po-Boys owners<br />
Josh and Daphne Watson.<br />
Noted for:<br />
It is undoubtedly our roast beef po-boy. If you eat a roast beef poboy<br />
here, you probably won’t find another one as good anywhere<br />
else. We cook our own meat and make our own gravy. A lot of<br />
places won’t do that. And there is no fat or grizzle on our sandwiches<br />
— our meat is clean.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We give our sandwiches as door prizes for different events that the<br />
area schools sponsor and regularly contribute to the St. Jude’s<br />
Children’s Research Hospital.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Probably moving to the North Shore. We started out with Big<br />
Bear’s Snoballs in Bucktown in the early 1970s. I made sno-balls<br />
there as a kid. Then my parents decided to relocate to the North<br />
Shore, where they opened a sno-ball stand in Mandeville before<br />
we got into the po-boy business.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We haven’t had a lot of celebrities. Steve Johnson of the radio<br />
team of Walton and Johnson used to come in here a lot. We have<br />
a lot of lawyers and doctors who come in, as well as construction<br />
workers. It’s a broad spectrum of people.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
It’s a family business. My wife and kids work here as does my<br />
mama, sister and brother-in-law. We’ve all been in this business<br />
for years, and I think you just do what you do best. We really enjoy<br />
putting out a quality product and making people happy. That’s<br />
very important to us. And after all of these years, I can honestly<br />
say I don’t have anything bad to say about this business.•<br />
— Garry Boulard<br />
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
La Petite grocery<br />
Interview with executive chef Justin Devillier and general manager Bryan Hutchings<br />
4238 Magazine St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Justin Devillier<br />
Opened:<br />
2004<br />
Price range:<br />
Entrees run between $17 and $26, while lunch can run between<br />
$12 and $21.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
American with Southern influence and a French technique. We<br />
try to be really creative by not serving solely Southern dishes.<br />
Noted for:<br />
We’re noted for having a warm and inviting environment where<br />
individuals can come to enjoy lunch or an evening out without<br />
having to get too fancy.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We definitely enjoy working with the community as often as possible.<br />
Last year, we worked with Share Our Strength, which<br />
works to abate childhood hunger. We also try to remain actively<br />
involved with schools as much as possible by helping with various<br />
fundraisers.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
In 2008, our revenue increased by 25 percent. Another highlight<br />
was opening for lunch in 2007. We had a great demand for<br />
it, so we created the menu and it became an instance success.<br />
2008 was our first full year of being open for lunch.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Local and national artists and entertainers frequent us quite<br />
often — a lot of local notables actually.<br />
Marianna Roll, left, and Alison Mehr<br />
chat over lunch at La Petite Grocery.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
It’s great networking, and you get to meet a lot of people from different<br />
industries. It’s also a pleasure putting a dish together that<br />
puts a smile on people’s faces. It’s like having a party every night.•<br />
— Nayita Wilson<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 13
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Mandina’s<br />
Interview with owner Cindy Mandina<br />
3800 Canal St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Isadore Pilart Jr.<br />
Opened:<br />
1932<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $8.95 and $21.95<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Creole-Italian<br />
Noted for:<br />
We’re very well known for our turtle soup and seafood gumbo.<br />
People really like our trout meuniere almandine and our daily<br />
specials, such as red beans and rice on Mondays and liver on<br />
Thursdays.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We donate food to different charitable organizations and<br />
schools, such as Lark in the Park, Jesuit High School and Camp<br />
Tiger. We give gift certificates to Mount Carmel High School for<br />
their Spring Fling and other events throughout the city.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Reopening in February 2007 after repairs from Hurricane<br />
Katrina, which left us under 8 feet of water. We made the<br />
choice to come back amid all the complications of rebuilding<br />
and the uncertainty of the times.<br />
Mandina’s server Emily Marziale heads for the dining room during a recent dinner rush.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We love it when Harry Connick Jr. and his beautiful wife come<br />
in. We’ve also had Magic Johnson, Mayor C. Ray Nagin, James<br />
Carville, John Goodman and Dr. John.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I just love it. I love the feel, I love the vibe, I love the feel of certain<br />
times of the year like Christmas, Mardi Gras and Jazz Fest<br />
when people come back in town to visit their maw maw. I like<br />
expediting, seeing the final product and people smiling<br />
because of the food. I love that two-hour lunch rush when<br />
everyone’s working as a team.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Parasol’s<br />
Interview with co-owner Jeffrey Carreras<br />
2533 Constance St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Head chef:<br />
Tim Seeman<br />
Opened:<br />
1952<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $4 and $15<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Roast beef, oyster and shrimp po-boys<br />
Noted for:<br />
Roast beef po-boy, a neighborhood atmosphere and it’s the<br />
place to be on St. Patrick’s Day.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
St. Baldrick’s, the American Cancer Society and the Louisiana<br />
Peace Corps Association Christmas in October. This year’s St.<br />
Baldrick’s fundraiser at Parasol’s was March 12 with the theme<br />
of Be Brave. Go Bald — Shave the way to conquer kids’ cancer<br />
and try to raise $10,000. We’re in our eighth year running the<br />
fundraiser. My brother passed away from cancer in 1994, and<br />
raising money to find cures for the disease has always been<br />
important to us.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Being listed in the following publications: Food and Wine<br />
Magazine for The Go List in 2007; Where Y’at Magazine’s<br />
2007 Best of The Big Easy’s Critics’ and Readers’ Picks for<br />
best place to play pinball and video games, best juke box and<br />
best roast beef po-boy; Esquire magazine for the best po-boys<br />
in America in June 2006; and Where Y’at Magazine for best<br />
po-boys in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> in 2005 and 2006.<br />
Parasol’s bartender Sara Valashinas hands a roast beef po-boy to David Easson.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Susan Sarandon, John Goodman, Harry Connick Jr. and<br />
David Toms<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I love to cook. I love the taste of food and I love the different<br />
tastes and variations of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> food.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
14 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Radosta’s<br />
Interview with owner Don Radosta<br />
249 Aris Ave., Metairie<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Everybody does a little bit. I run the restaurant with my wife,<br />
Joan, mother, Rosemary, and brothers, Wayne and Mark. But I<br />
do most of it.<br />
Opened:<br />
The restaurant opened June 1, 1975, as a grocery store. We were<br />
the fourth generation of grocers. We started cooking one day,<br />
threw the groceries out and kept cooking.<br />
Price range:<br />
Hot lunches range between $7.95 and $8.95, po-boys range<br />
between $5.95 and $7.95, seafood po-boys start at about $8.50<br />
and special sandwiches range between $7.50 and $10.95.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
We have more than 40 kinds of po-boys. That’s our specialty. I<br />
make the best gumbo in the city. In 2003, USA Today printed a<br />
description of the restaurant’s muffaletta. We probably have the<br />
No. 1 fried shrimp in the city. That’s what all our customers tell<br />
us. We got everything. Soups, salads, sandwiches, po-boys, eggplant<br />
parmesan, Southwest egg rolls, daily specials and hamburgers<br />
made with 1 pound of fresh ground chuck.<br />
Joan and Don Radosta drop<br />
off po-boys to Tyler Atkins,<br />
left, Corkey Atkins, Betty<br />
Atkins and Beth Webb.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Roast beef po-boy.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We donate cases of hot dogs, buns, etc., to the Jesuit High School<br />
Fair, and we donate gallons of corn and shrimp soup to<br />
Dominican High School. We also give money to numerous charities<br />
and organizations, including Jefferson Parish firefighters.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
On Jan. 6, 1998, our flat roof collapsed. We had too much<br />
water on the roof. It rained every day for 35 days. It rained so<br />
hard all the walls just caved in. We were on the national news<br />
for about a month.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
The late Sheriff Harry Lee and actor John Goodman.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
We love it. ... It’s family-run, a team effort. Everybody pitches<br />
in and it works well. Joan, my wife, knows everybody’s name<br />
and their kids’ names. I tell everybody, “We got the best customers<br />
and friends on Earth.”•<br />
— Amy Ferrara Smith<br />
Best<br />
Neighborhood<br />
Dining<br />
Establishments<br />
Salvo’s Seafood & deli<br />
Interview with owner Sal St. Philip<br />
7742 Louisiana Highway 23, Belle Chasse<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Opened:<br />
1984<br />
Price range:<br />
Lunch is about $10 and dinner is about $13.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Fried and boiled seafood<br />
Noted for:<br />
Boiled seafood and our seasoning. It’s not too hot. It’s not too<br />
bland. It’s just right.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
To me, the biggest community thing I did was for Hurricane<br />
Katrina. Nothing was open down here, and we couldn’t get our<br />
restaurant open. But for 12 days, we used our catering rig to serve<br />
up to 350 people a day. People were bringing us frozen food<br />
donations, and we had a sort of soup line going for first responders<br />
and anyone who wanted to eat. It kind of restored my faith in<br />
mankind. We also donate to many causes, including the annual<br />
Toys for Tots drive, the Plaquemines Parish Sheriff’s Department<br />
and Our Lady of Perpetual Help Church.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Marking 25 years in business.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Elijah Wood came in during Mardi Gras a couple of years ago.<br />
I think he got the people stirred more than anybody.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
Cooking is something I’ve done all my life. To share our<br />
recipes with all of the people and to have them appreciate the<br />
food is very rewarding.•<br />
— Diana Chandler<br />
Server Meredith Boardman runs an all-you-caneat<br />
seafood platter at Salvo’s in Belle Chase.<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 15
Best <strong>New</strong><br />
Restaurants<br />
Hostel <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
Interview with co-owner Remi De Matteo<br />
329 Decatur St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Richard Richardson<br />
Opened:<br />
January 2008<br />
Price range:<br />
Appetizers range between $5 and $16, while entrees run<br />
between $18 and $28.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
Classical European with Southern influences<br />
Noted for:<br />
Stacked duck. It’s a grilled duck breast with a Napoleon of<br />
crispy potatoes, warm rillette and caramelized onions served<br />
with a port and duck glace reduction.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I have always been a big supporter of March of Dimes. We also<br />
do <strong>City</strong> Park’s annual Love in the Garden event, and we do<br />
some work with the Louisiana SPCA. We give back to the <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> community as much as we can.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Since we just started a year ago, we’re trying to get the word<br />
out as much as we can. When we got our first Zagat ratings in<br />
May 2008, they were positive, so that was a good start.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Jennifer Biel, Will Patton, Michael O’Keefe, Johnny Abrahams<br />
and Jason Lewis from “Sex and the <strong>City</strong>.”<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My background was in nightclubs. I was a former co-owner of<br />
Republic and general manager of 360 and was always interested in<br />
getting in the restaurant business. It’s an experience totally different<br />
from the nightclub scene. It’s more rewarding in terms of the<br />
Hostel <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> executive<br />
chef Richard Richardson<br />
matches wine to a cheese<br />
selection for Meaghan Buntin.<br />
overall experience you’re providing your customers. When we<br />
brought in Chef Richard, we saw his passion right away for cooking.<br />
… His passion really motivated us to make this restaurant<br />
work, and we have been doing well so far.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
Best <strong>New</strong><br />
Restaurants<br />
Latil’s landing<br />
Interview with executive chef Jeremy Langlois<br />
40136 Highway 942, Darrow<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Jeremy Langlois<br />
Opened:<br />
2005<br />
Price range:<br />
On average, $70 per person.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
I call it plantation cuisine — it’s basically just grand Louisiana<br />
cuisine. If you were to come to Houmas House, everything is<br />
about creating an atmosphere that everything is grand. With<br />
the restaurant, we keep it in the same motif as being a showplace,<br />
and as a cuisine it’s meant to reflect that. When people<br />
come to eat at Latil’s, I’m not trying to show them a historic<br />
representation of Louisiana by any stretch. But at the same<br />
time, I do a mixture of both — some things can be very contemporary,<br />
but there is a certain tradition in Louisiana cuisine,<br />
and we do that as well.<br />
Noted for:<br />
We do a Community Coffee-marinated rack of lamb. We have a<br />
unique soup — a bisque of curried pumpkin and crawfish.<br />
Those two always seem to be the standouts that have become<br />
signature dishes.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We host the annual conference for Louisiana Endowment for the<br />
Humanities. I do a cooking event every year in Baton Rouge for<br />
cystic fibrosis. The owner, Kevin Kelly, is also big into the <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> charity Save Our Cemeteries.<br />
Latil’s Landing executive<br />
chef Jeremy Langlois talks<br />
with diners Mike and<br />
Samantha Gulino.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We opened in January 2005, and in March of that year we had<br />
John Mariani of Esquire Magazine come in, and honor us as Best<br />
<strong>New</strong> Restaurant for the country. Random things happened to get<br />
filmed at Houmas House, on the grounds. We were just on “Top<br />
Chef” for the season finale they did in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We’ve had a couple celebrities come by: Jennifer Love Hewitt,<br />
Jennifer Coolidge, Jerry O’Connell. We’ve done a couple events<br />
with local artist George Rodrigue where we’ve put his art all over<br />
the property. I can probably think of five banquets Gov. Bobby<br />
Jindal’s held at the property.•<br />
— Leah Bartos<br />
16 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best <strong>New</strong><br />
Restaurants<br />
restaurant amis<br />
Interview with executive chef Marvin Tweedy<br />
190 U.S. Highway 190 North, Covington<br />
PHOTO BY SHANNON DIECIDUE<br />
Executive Chef:<br />
Marvin Tweedy<br />
Opened:<br />
May 2008<br />
Price range:<br />
Between $28 and $40<br />
Cuisine:<br />
I would classify it as a progressive Southern cuisine, but there’s<br />
also a heavy French influence.<br />
Restaurant Amiz executive chef<br />
Marvin Tweedy greets customers<br />
Armand Bennett, left, Ron<br />
Mangipano and Robert Mejia.<br />
Noted for:<br />
We’re the only restaurant on the North Shore that serves<br />
prime beef (top 2 percent of beef in the country). The most<br />
popular item would be our filets, served either as tournedos —<br />
aka petit filets — 8-ounce center cut filet or 12-ounce center<br />
cut filet.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We took all of our proceeds from opening night and donated<br />
them to the Hope House in Covington. We also have a lot of<br />
charitable donations for St. Paul’s and St. Scholastica<br />
(schools) and the Children’s Museum. We all focus on three<br />
charities that are close to us and that we think can really benefit<br />
the community.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Surviving the one-two punch of hurricanes Gustav and Ike.<br />
We were faced with a lot of adversity when we opened. Gustav<br />
came and took out our electricity for three days. Trying to<br />
come back and reopen after Gustav, we get in there and then<br />
here comes Ike.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
St. Tammany Parish District Attorney Walter Reed and State<br />
Sen. Jack Donahue<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My grandfather. He was very involved with the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
Saints, lived on a boat in the West End Marina, and I spent a<br />
lot of time with him. He was very in touch with the restaurant<br />
industry, and at a very young age I got a lot of tours of the<br />
kitchens of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. My first memories of cooking are on<br />
his boat. One thing I remember is doing breaded veal for these<br />
guys — Saints players like Danny Abramowicz and Archie<br />
Manning. I couldn’t see myself doing anything else. It’s definitely<br />
a labor of love.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
<strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong><br />
2009 <strong>Culinary</strong> Connoisseur - Pastry Chef<br />
Thank you <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> for<br />
31 Blessed Years!<br />
since 1978<br />
From it’s earliest beginnings as a corner grocery in 1898, to<br />
becoming a neighborhood eatery in 1932, to it’s re-opening in<br />
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<strong>Orleans</strong> for four generations. Mandina’s has been blessed over<br />
the years with an exceptional staff and truly the most loyal<br />
customers.The Mandina family would like to express it’s gratitude<br />
to the friends and patrons who have been frequent guests over<br />
the years. It has been an honor and privilege to serve you.<br />
Thanks<br />
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<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 17
Best <strong>New</strong><br />
Restaurants<br />
restaurant rambla<br />
Interview with manager Justin Pelto<br />
221 Camp St., <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Scott Maki<br />
Opened:<br />
Oct. 1<br />
Price range:<br />
Tapas can range between $6 and $14, while entrees can run<br />
between $19 and $23. The main focus is on the small dishes.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
We serve tapas with a Spanish and French influence and with<br />
regional Louisiana ingredients. It has a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> flair.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Patatas Bravas, which is a dish of crisp potatoes tossed in a<br />
smoky-spiced Spanish paprika with a garlic aioli.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
The restaurant has already made donations to local charities,<br />
including gift certificates that charities can raffle. To help the<br />
local economy, we focus on buying local produce and proteins,<br />
and we participate in a recycling program that enables us<br />
to use recycled glass.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Rachel Ray, the national culinary connoisseur, visited<br />
Restaurant Rambla in February to feature its efforts in going<br />
green with recycling. The show is expected to air this fall.<br />
Also, increasing business and becoming more known in the<br />
city has been good for us.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Numerous well-known locals have already stopped by.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
It’s something that’s always intrigued me. I like to come in and<br />
learn more day to day and become more immersed in the culinary<br />
world.•<br />
— Amy Ferrara Smith<br />
Restaurant Rambla owner Kim Kringlie,<br />
left, and wife, Simone, enjoy cocktails<br />
with Jon Drake and wife, Heidi.<br />
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18 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Caterers<br />
LaBella’s Catering<br />
Interview with owner Joe La Bella<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Joe La Bella<br />
Opened:<br />
1966<br />
Price range:<br />
It varies depending on the kind of event, but<br />
our weddings average about $20 a person.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
It varies from every event we do. Our clients<br />
grab a theme and run with it — it could be<br />
Mediterranean one day, Italian the next, then<br />
Creole another. It’s mostly <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
Creole with our jambalayas, muffulettas and<br />
gumbos, and believe it or not, our bread<br />
pudding is a hit.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Our muffulettas and bread pudding. We<br />
probably sell more muffulettas than anybody<br />
in town because we have a lot of corporate<br />
accounts and cater for the Superdome and<br />
the Arena through Centerplate. That’s saying<br />
a lot, because there are a bunch of places in<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> that sell muffulettas.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
For more than 10 years, for every named<br />
storm, we have opened our doors 24 hours a<br />
day, seven days a week to all police, fire,<br />
EMT, parish and city essential personnel to<br />
feed and house anyone who needed it. They<br />
can grab a hot meal, nap and just refuel for<br />
their jobs. It makes me feel necessary, and it’s<br />
the right thing to do. More recently, I worked<br />
with Kenner officials and got a boxing training<br />
program started at the Wentwood gym in<br />
January. We have about 40 kids involved.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We really came into the public eye in 2002<br />
when the Super Bowl was held in <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> and we were one of four vendors<br />
allowed in the Superdome. The executive chef<br />
referred us to The Food Network, which was<br />
filming for a show called “Food Finds,” and<br />
they produced a segment on us. It aired<br />
nationwide the Thursday before the game, and<br />
our shipping business nationwide just took off.<br />
We were shipping muffulettas everywhere.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
Kevin Costner, Delta Burke, Julia Roberts,<br />
Sissy Spacek, Jack Lemon and Billy Crystal.<br />
When they filmed “JFK,” it was a huge exposure<br />
for us. We did about three parties for<br />
Camelot Productions, and it really helped<br />
expose our business.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
Best<br />
Caterers<br />
Joel Catering<br />
Interview with president Sarah Hall<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Executive chef:<br />
Evan Venson<br />
Opened:<br />
1993<br />
Price range:<br />
Our price range is crazy flexible. We have box lunches for $12<br />
per person, yet our high-end, more formal events are $150 per<br />
person. So we really work hard to get to know the client, understand<br />
their needs, and then we work to match their budget.<br />
Cuisine:<br />
There’s a passion for <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> food, but our goal is to take it<br />
to the next level and create something more original. Instead of<br />
just serving jambalaya, we do a jambalaya cake that has sautéed<br />
spinach, barbecue shrimp and a great <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>-style barbecue<br />
sauce on top. We have the authentic <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> flavors but<br />
present them in a way that is interesting and delicious.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Lobster corndog. We can’t even explain the phenomenon that<br />
is the lobster corndog. It’s a puree of lobster and fresh cream<br />
dipped in cornmeal, battered and fried, served with a passion<br />
fruit aioli. The waiters get accosted.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We donate our services to various charities, but one of our<br />
favorites is KIDsmART; we donate to their fundraiser every fall.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We started out pretty small, and I’d say our biggest event in<br />
2000 was 12,000 people for Tulane. That really opened the<br />
doors for us to do a really different style of catering. We also did<br />
work for FEMA, serving 3,000 meals a day in Lake Charles to<br />
people affected by Hurricane Rita. It was really meaningful for<br />
us as individuals and also for our company. It allowed us to help<br />
in the very beginnings of recovery.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
We have been privileged to cater many movie premieres and<br />
screenings, such as “All the King’s Men” with Jude Law, Kate<br />
Winslet and Sean Penn. More recently, we did a screening at<br />
Joel Catering president Sarah Hall and owner Joel Dondis.<br />
The Palace for “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button,” and<br />
we were very happy when Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie attended.<br />
We catered a fundraiser for Obama when he was campaigning,<br />
and we catered an event for Bush when he was in office.•<br />
— John Breerwood<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 19
<strong>Culinary</strong><br />
<strong>Connoisseurs</strong><br />
celebration<br />
Several hundred people attended the 2009 <strong>Culinary</strong><br />
<strong>Connoisseurs</strong> cocktail reception April 7 at the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
Museum of Art. Medallions were presented to the 50 honorees<br />
upon arriving and <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> Publisher Mark<br />
Singletary recognized each honoree later in the evening. These<br />
photos and more can be seen on the <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> photo<br />
gallery at www.neworleanscitybusiness.com.<br />
Photos by Frank Aymami<br />
From left: Mercedes representatives Dean Allison, Christopher Stuben and Carl Keith.<br />
Keri Landry, left, and Sous Chef honoree Heather Young.<br />
Owner honoree Chef Duke LoCicero, left, and Lifetime Achievement honoree Bob<br />
DeFelice.<br />
Sous Chef honoree Alfred Singleton with wife, Mildred.<br />
20 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Lifetime Achievement honoree Sterling Constant<br />
with wife, Trudy.<br />
Legend honoree Elle Brennan with Mercedes representative Jamie Moll, left, and Kathleen Moll.<br />
From left: Bryan Duck, Rachel Whitesides, Jeremy Langlois, Anderson Foster and Cecily Boudreaux.<br />
Rob Eisterhold, left, and Cindy Mandina of Neighborhood<br />
Establishment honoree Mandina’s.<br />
Sous Chef honoree Brandon Meutzel, left, and Executive Chef honoree<br />
Gus Martin.<br />
Maitre d’ honoree Michael Juan with wife, Brigitte Redpath.<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 21
From left: <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> Publisher Mark Singletary with Legend honoree Ella<br />
Brennan and Owner honoree Dickie Brennan.<br />
Joey and Judy Labella of Caterer honoree La Bella’s Catering.<br />
Pastry Chef honoree Simone Fleming with mother, Stella Fleming-Williams.<br />
Executive Chef honoree David Slater, left, and Saleem Nawaz of Fine Dining<br />
Establishment honoree Emeril’s Delmonico.<br />
From left: Bryan Hutchings, Courtney Dodson and Executive Chef honoree Justin Devillier.<br />
22 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Lifetime Achievement honoree Shirley Lee, front row middle, with her guests.<br />
Sommelier honoree Joe Briand with wife, Shannon.<br />
From left: Leslie Muller, Larry Bridevaux, Pastry Chef honoree Margarite Riehm and<br />
Jeanette Jennings.<br />
From left: Kelly LoCicero with husband and honorees Duke Locicero and<br />
Ralph Brennan.<br />
Lifetime Achievement honoree Jorges Pesantes with wife, Marta.<br />
Executive Chef honorees Tenney Flynn, left, and Brian Landry.<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 23
Your Source for Local <strong>Business</strong> <strong>New</strong>s<br />
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List: SBA Lenders<br />
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Career Development<br />
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MAY<br />
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6 Education<br />
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List: Deep-Draft Ports<br />
Health Care Benefits September 28<br />
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Holiday Party Planning<br />
List: Largest Hotels<br />
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Green Growth<br />
12<br />
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Health Care<br />
List: Women Owned <strong>Business</strong>es<br />
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Jefferson Parish <strong>Business</strong> Report<br />
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21 Retail<br />
List: Shopping Centers<br />
28<br />
Year In Review<br />
List: <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>-area Tourist Attractions<br />
Liz Baldini<br />
293-9213<br />
liz.baldini@nopg.com<br />
Ginger Graf<br />
293-9268<br />
ginger.graf@nopg.com<br />
Coco Evans Judd<br />
293-9288<br />
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Cassie Foreman<br />
293-9222<br />
cassie.foreman@nopg.com<br />
Jeanne Farrell<br />
293-9731<br />
jeanne.farrell@nopg.com<br />
24 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Owners<br />
John besh & Octavio Mantilla<br />
August, La Provence, Lüke, and Besh Steakhouse. Interview with Octavio Mantilla<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
The Steakhouse came online in 2003, John Besh and I acquired<br />
August in 2005, we bought La Provence at the end of 2006 and<br />
Lüke came online in May 2007. Domenica, our Italian restaurant<br />
in the Roosevelt Hotel, is opening in June.<br />
Besh Restaurant Group coowners<br />
Octavio Mantilla,<br />
left, and John Besh enjoy<br />
an afternoon cocktail.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
Everywhere you turn, there’s something going on benefiting the<br />
city — most of these things are social charity events. And if you<br />
go to them, you realize we’re at almost every single one of them,<br />
whether it’s for a donation of dinner at a silent auction to actually<br />
serving food at the events. Besides that, John is always doing<br />
something outside the city to promote <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. He’s always<br />
been an ambassador of the city, so he’s doing tons of public relations<br />
and charity events.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We went into business three months before Katrina … and I<br />
think the biggest accomplishment was that we stuck to building<br />
the restaurant and kept fighting for it and the city. We believe in<br />
the city, we believe in our staff and our team members and we<br />
believe in ourselves — and it’s paid off, and we’ve been able to<br />
grow exponentially.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Gnocchi is something we’re known for at August, duck is something<br />
we’re known for at August and the egg custard with<br />
Louisiana caviar is awesome. At Lüke, the hamburgers and fries<br />
are incredible, and the Friday special is a redfish court-boullion.<br />
La Provence has the beet salad, and the Steakhouse has amazing<br />
barbecue shrimp.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
This is what I’ve done all my life. I started in the industry<br />
when I was in high school bussing and washing tables. Even<br />
though I went to Tulane for my bachelor’s degree and the<br />
University of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> for my master’s, I found myself<br />
always going back to what I love — taking care of people and<br />
being hospitable. There are plenty of fields out there, and I<br />
spend my life in a field where people come to enjoy themselves.<br />
It’s kind of hard to beat.•<br />
— Leah Bartos<br />
Best<br />
Owners<br />
Dickie brennan<br />
Palace Café, Dickie Brennan's Steakhouse, Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
18. Palace Cafe opened in 1991, Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse<br />
opened in 1998 and Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar<br />
opened in 2002.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
Restaurants have a huge opportunity to give back to communities,<br />
and we are very involved with fundraisers, donated gift certificates,<br />
charity dinners, contributions — we just try to do as<br />
much as we can. We’re most proud of our relationship with the<br />
Kingsley House. I encourage all our employees to volunteer their<br />
time there before or after work and help the kids in that program.<br />
Last year, we had a luncheon there for Halloween and invited<br />
legislators so they could see what a historical significance and<br />
meaningful program the Kingsley House is to our city.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
We put a lot of effort into being an employer of choice and taking<br />
care of our employees. Another milestone I am most proud<br />
of, along with my partners Steve Pettus and Lauren Brower, is<br />
being in that first wave of restaurants that reopened after<br />
Hurricane Katrina. We jumped right back in to get this city<br />
going again. It was a milestone individually and for our company.<br />
Four years later, we are surviving and doing well, and<br />
despite the national economy troubles, we have had some<br />
solid first quarters of business at all our restaurants.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
I’m a real seasonal guy, so anything that’s in season. If Creole<br />
tomatoes are ripe off the vine, I want my Creole tomato. If soft<br />
shell crabs are in season, I’m ready for my soft shell crab. Right<br />
now, it’s crawfish time and our chefs are being real creative<br />
with crawfish from crawfish bisque to sauteed crawfish dishes.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I was always close to my father, and growing up I lived a couple<br />
of blocks from the family business at Commander’s Palace.<br />
I loved food, I loved cooking and I was able to get in the<br />
kitchen with some legendary and dynamic chefs like Paul<br />
Prudhomme. I just caught the restaurant bug and never<br />
strayed from the business. I enjoy making people happy, and I<br />
enjoy the restaurant environment. It works for me.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 25
Best<br />
Owners<br />
ralph brennan<br />
Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Name of establishments:<br />
I own Bacco, Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park and am a<br />
partner in Mr.B’s and Commander’s Palace.Elsewhere,I own Jazz<br />
Kitchen in the Downtown Disney district of Disneyland Resort in<br />
Anaheim, Calif., and am a partner in Brennan’s of Houston.<br />
Years with establishments:<br />
I’ve owned Bacco since 1991, the Red Fish Grill since 1997, Jazz<br />
Kitchen since 2001 and Ralph’s on the Park since 2003.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I’m active as a food service industry advocate and a friend of business<br />
and tourism. I’ve held leadership roles with the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
and National Restaurant associations, the Ernest N. Morial<br />
Convention Center, the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Aviation Board, the <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>Business</strong> Council, the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Convention and<br />
Visitors Bureau and Children’s Hospital.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Professionally, opening four successful restaurants and building<br />
a team of management and staff to operate these restaurants.<br />
Many of these people have stayed with our company to take on<br />
leadership roles, and I’ve enjoyed watching their growth and<br />
development. I’m also proud to have been chairman and president<br />
of the National Restaurant Association from 1995-96. A<br />
personal milestone is my immediate family — three great children<br />
and a marriage of 26 years.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
A cheeseburger, fries and a chocolate shake. Of course, I can’t<br />
have many of these at my age.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I enjoy building a team and watching each team member grow<br />
personally and professionally. The culinary industry is an<br />
industry of people and I enjoy people. I enjoy making customers<br />
happy.•<br />
— Diana Chandler<br />
Best<br />
Owners<br />
Emeril Lagasse<br />
Emeril’s Restaurant, NOLA Restaurant, Emeril’s Delmonico<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
At Emeril’s since 1990, at NOLA since 1992 and at Emeril’s<br />
Delmonico since 1997.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
The Emeril Lagasse Foundation was created in 2002 to support<br />
and encourage programs creating developmental and educational<br />
opportunities for children. The foundation has contributed<br />
more than $2.5 million to Gulf Coast organizations including the<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Center for Creative Arts, Café Reconcile, St.<br />
Michael’s Special School, Parkway Partners, Covenant Café and<br />
the Covenant House. The foundation, in a partnership with<br />
NOCCA, established the city’s first comprehensive four-year<br />
professional training program in culinary arts for high school students,<br />
and the foundation has also started the Emeril Lagasse<br />
Foundation <strong>Culinary</strong> Learning Center at Café Reconcile in <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong>. What’s important to me is the children.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
In 1990, Emeril’s had just opened and became a five-bean restaurant<br />
according to The Times-Picayune. That was big for us<br />
because there weren’t really any four- or five-star restaurants emerging<br />
in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> during that time. I was also very honored to be<br />
named the Best Southeast Regional Chef by the James Beard<br />
Foundation and Chef of the Year by GQ Magazine. I have a lot to<br />
be thankful for, and I don’t take anything for granted. I still wake up<br />
every day and work as hard as the first day I came into the business.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
I have always been very connected to the soil and the local<br />
farmer’s market and whatever is in season. We are very blessed for<br />
incredible soil and reserves in Louisiana and the Gulf of Mexico.<br />
It’s good to support the local community and local farmers as<br />
much as you can. My favorite dish right now would be to perfectly<br />
cook the freshest fish I could find available.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
Besides my education and travel, a lot of my early inspiration came<br />
from working with the Brennan family — Ella and Dick. They<br />
were very passionate about what they did and passed it on. They<br />
treated me like family, and they taught me not just about being a<br />
great chef in the industry but about being a well-rounded restaurateur<br />
so I could have a chance to be successful in this business.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
26 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Owners<br />
Duke Locicero<br />
Café Giovanni<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
I started Cafe Giovanni in 1991. I had been in the restaurant<br />
business since I was a kid and wanted to be my own boss. I<br />
had my own ideas on how a place like this should operate<br />
because I knew what it was like to run things from both the<br />
front and back of a restaurant.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We started the Chef Duke Foundation for Kids about 17 years<br />
ago. We were doing different things like wine dinners to raise<br />
money for kids. Then I decided to start my own foundation for<br />
kids in need. With the money from the fundraiser, we fill up a U-<br />
Haul truck with toys and bring them to children at Children’s<br />
Hospital. Last year we had enough for about 220 kids.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Where we are used to be a terrible block. People didn’t walk<br />
down this part of the street — they ran. So I decided to launch<br />
the Decatur Street Association, and we really cleaned the place<br />
up. We had 45 members and have since merged it into the<br />
French Quarter <strong>Business</strong> Association. It is a different atmosphere<br />
today. They call this the Gateway to the French Quarter.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
I don’t have one in particular. Instead, I would offer a tasting<br />
menu with many small dishes, all offering the different styles<br />
of Italian cooking we have here.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
When I was 12 years old, I went to work as a dishwasher for<br />
the House of Lee under Harry and Davis Lee. I went from<br />
dishwasher to busboy to helping with the food, and I liked<br />
everything about the business and feel the same way today.•<br />
— Garry Boulard<br />
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
Scott boswell<br />
Stella and Stanley<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I went to the <strong>Culinary</strong> Institute of America in Hyde Park,<strong>New</strong> York.<br />
I graduated in 1995 and spent a year training in the south of France.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
April 5 was our eighth anniversary at Stella, and Stanley, which<br />
opened temporarily about two weeks after Katrina, then closed,<br />
has been open for three months.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I worked with the Windsor Court before learning at the <strong>Culinary</strong><br />
Institute of America, Salon de Provence in France and Enoteca<br />
Pinchiorri in Florence, Italy. I also worked at a resort in Montana<br />
and Restaurant Massa in Tokyo.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I am on the French Quarter <strong>Business</strong> Association board and the<br />
board of directors on the committee of Strategic Planning and<br />
Development.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Most people tell me how incredibly imaginative it is as far as the<br />
creations, the flavor and the surprises. It’s just about the things<br />
you wouldn’t expect. People know me for being exciting.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
I don’t know. I love so many things. I really love eggs, and one of<br />
my favorite combinations of all times is lobster, eggs and truffles.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Duck five ways. I remember the day I created it after Katrina. It has<br />
been a home run ever since. It’s Szechwan-seared breast, lacquered<br />
leg and thigh, moo shoo pancake stir-fry, duck miso broth, foie gras<br />
won tons and currant cassis reduction.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I have loved to cook since my earliest childhood. My grandmother<br />
used to chase me out of the kitchen with a broom when I was<br />
little. As I grew up, I started cooking a lot but I figured I loved it<br />
so much, I really didn’t want to do it for a job. I went to school to<br />
be a dentist, worked in a bank for seven years, then I owned a pet<br />
store. All the while people loved my cooking, and I realized it was<br />
what I wanted to do. I took a temporary job in a restaurant, and I<br />
just fell in love with it.•<br />
— Craig Guillot<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 27
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
justin devillier<br />
La Petite Grocery<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I started cooking in 1999. I have no formal training, but rather<br />
a self-styled apprenticeship. I attribute a lot of what I know to<br />
the chefs I’ve worked with in the past, particularly Chef Anne<br />
Kearny-Sands.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Five and a half, collectively.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I grew up in California and worked in a few hotel restaurants<br />
before moving to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> in the summer of 2002. Since<br />
then, I’ve worked at Ralph Brennan’s, Peristyle and Stella.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
The past two years, I participated in St. Baldricks, where people<br />
pledge money for you to shave your head. The proceeds are used<br />
for pediatric cancer research. It was definitely an easy and<br />
rewarding way to help out.<br />
Noted for:<br />
The gnocchi. I can’t take it off of the menu because it’s so popular.<br />
It’s made with smoked bacon,Parmesan,crème fraiche and chives.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
I like onions because they lend flavor to any dish. It’s a flavor<br />
that really carries.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
I don’t have a favorite dish to prepare because I’m always trying<br />
to move forward, but I enjoy eating homemade tacos — made by<br />
me and my wife. Vietnamese food is another favorite.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I just like being around food. Being able to do something I love<br />
is inspiring as well as being able to work with people who enjoy<br />
food as much as I do.•<br />
— Nayita Wilson<br />
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
Tenney flynn<br />
G.W. Fins<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I grew up in the restaurant business at my<br />
dad’s restaurant. I got into the bar and nightclub<br />
business for eight years. I ran a rock ‘n’<br />
roll club. It’s fun but it takes a toll. I knew I<br />
didn’t want to be in the bar business anymore.<br />
I studied at the <strong>Culinary</strong> Institute of<br />
America in <strong>New</strong> York, where I graduated<br />
from in 1985, and I was a very old-line cook<br />
at that point.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Eight, since G.W. Fins opened in March 2001.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I had an externship with the Buckhead Life<br />
Group in Atlanta. They were pretty much the<br />
fine dining establishment in Atlanta. I spent<br />
two years as a sous chef at one of their seafood<br />
restaurants. They opened their steakhouse,<br />
Chops, and I got the executive chef job and<br />
spent three years there. Ruth’s Chris hired me<br />
to be their corporate chef in 1992. I had never<br />
even been to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, even though it was<br />
only 500 miles away. During my time there,<br />
from 1992 to 1999, Ruth’s Chris doubled in<br />
size from roughly 35 to 70 restaurants.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We usually pick six major charities and do<br />
about 12 charities — total. March of Dimes is<br />
a big one, SPCA is a pretty big one, Zoo-to-<br />
Do — and that’s not counting the churches<br />
and schools.<br />
Noted for:<br />
We support the local seafood industry. That’s<br />
the basis of our menu. On any given day, there<br />
are seven or eight varieties of any local seafood<br />
on the menu. A good 60 percent to 70 percent<br />
of the menu is local products.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Pork<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
That changes on a daily basis. My favorite<br />
right now is mussels with Chinese sausage<br />
and Thai curry broth.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
Growing up in restaurants. Literally, my earliest<br />
memories are visiting my dad’s restaurants.<br />
I came by it naturally.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
28 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
brian landry<br />
Galatoire’s<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I graduated from Jesuit High School and<br />
received a biology and philosophy degree in<br />
1998 from the University of Alabama. Three<br />
years later I graduated from Johnson and<br />
Wales University in Charleston, S.C., with a<br />
culinary degree.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
I’ve been here since Katrina. Before that I<br />
worked at the Charleston Grill in Charleston,<br />
as well as Rene Bistrot and Ralph’s at the Park<br />
here in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I still do a lot with Jesuit’s career days and<br />
mentoring programs, but there are so many<br />
events and charities through the Galatoire<br />
family that I either do cooking demonstrations<br />
for or donate food to. We’ve done<br />
events here for Children’s Hospital, and I’ve<br />
cooked for our March of Dimes fundraiser<br />
for the past three years.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Probably French Creole cuisine<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Anything fresh — that is the most important<br />
thing, whether it’s seafood or vegetables. I like<br />
cooking things I catch, whether that’s speckled<br />
trout, redfish or black drum.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
I added a duck and boursin cheese crepe. We<br />
were just playing around in the kitchen one<br />
day, had some port-soaked raisins, put everything<br />
together and it came out well. We ran it<br />
at our restaurant in Baton Rouge as our testing<br />
ground, then added it to the menu here.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
I’ve been working in restaurants since I was<br />
14. I started at Tony Angello’s Restaurant as a<br />
busboy, but when I grew up and it was time to<br />
decide what I wanted to be, I applied to medical<br />
school. When I left the interview, something<br />
told me that was not what I wanted to do,<br />
so I went home and told my parents I was<br />
going to go to culinary school. I had been<br />
working in restaurants for six years and never<br />
complained about going to work, so it made<br />
perfect sense to make this my career.•<br />
— Garry Boulard<br />
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
Gus Martin<br />
Muriel’s Jackson Square<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I learned while working with the Brennan family for 26 years,<br />
serving under Dick and Ella Brennan and chefs Jamie Shannon,<br />
Gerard Maras and Jimmy Smith.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
One<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I worked as sous chef at Mr. B’s for 10 years and at Commander’s<br />
Palace for one year before serving six years in the U.S. Army. After<br />
serving in the Army, I served as sous chef at Commander’s Palace<br />
again for four years and as an executive chef and corporate chef at<br />
Palace Café, the Bourbon House and Dickie Brennan’s Steak<br />
House. I’ve also worked at Red Fish Grill and Ralph’s on the Park.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I’ve served as a judge at United Way’s Gumbo Fest and conducted<br />
45-minute cooking demonstrations at Jazz Fest 13 of the<br />
past 15 years. After Hurricane Katrina, I cooked at John’s Grill<br />
in San Francisco during a fundraiser to benefit restaurants damaged<br />
by the storm.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Tweaking traditional dishes such as turtle soup, gumbo and<br />
sauces. I’m also a good teacher, developing young cooks and giving<br />
them the benefits I had growing up learning the craft.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Truffles. I got spoiled with truffles when I was young. They’re<br />
very expensive, but they’re delicious.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Muriel’s oven-roasted redfish wrapped around crab stuffing<br />
with crab butter.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My grandmother taught me to cook, and my mother taught me<br />
the restaurant business. I cooked my first eggs with my grandmother<br />
when I was 2 years old, standing on a crate. It was 2<br />
tablespoons of butter, two eggs, scrambled with salt and pepper<br />
and stirred with a fork. My mother, Viva Pesantes, was in the<br />
restaurant business for 50 years and brought me into it with my<br />
Aunt Dot. I just have a love and passion for food and have<br />
learned from great <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> chefs over the years.•<br />
— Diana Chandler<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 29
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
Jacques saleun<br />
Chateau du Lac<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I started my culinary training at age 15 in my native city of<br />
Brittany, France, before studying in Bordeaux, France. We have<br />
95 to 98 culinary institutions in France. That’s why France has<br />
so many good chefs.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
In 2005, I moved from <strong>New</strong> York to the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> metropolitan<br />
area, where I opened Chateau du Lac in Kenner. In January<br />
2008, we moved the restaurant to a larger location in Old Metairie.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I’ve worked in four-star Parisian kitchens throughout my career. In<br />
1999, I moved from Paris to <strong>New</strong> York with Sodexho, a Frenchbased<br />
company that opened a cruise-dining experience on the<br />
Hudson River.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We have a lot of involvement with Audubon Charter School, such<br />
as donating money, food or gift certificates. We never say no.<br />
Noted for:<br />
We have a specialty of escargot.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
I don’t have a favorite, but if I had to pick, it’s cream and butter. If<br />
you take out of the kitchen cream and butter,I can’t cook.I also like<br />
to use olive oil, fresh tomatoes, and seasonal vegetables and fruits.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Probably blanquette de veau and coq au vin. It’s basic food a<br />
French mother will cook after Mass.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My mother and aunt. They were great cooks. Also, the region<br />
where I was living (Brittany), they would bring in great fish, the<br />
best oysters and beautiful crabs.•<br />
— Amy Ferrara Smith<br />
Best<br />
Executive<br />
Chefs<br />
david slater<br />
Emeril’s Restaurant<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
Florida <strong>Culinary</strong> Institute in West Palm Beach, Fla.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Four years at Emeril’s Restaurant in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> and eight years<br />
at Emeril’s family of restaurants beginning with Emeril’s Orlando<br />
Previous experience:<br />
The Windsor Court Hotel, Restaurant Cuvee, Emeril’s Orlando<br />
and Emeril’s Atlanta. In January 2008, I assumed full command<br />
of the kitchen at Emeril’s Restaurant in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I value any work helping children through the foundation;<br />
that’s my soft spot. My family has always been interested in<br />
giving back to children, and that has stuck with me throughout<br />
my career.<br />
In 2002, Emeril Lagasse established the Emeril Lagasse<br />
Foundation to support and encourage programs creating developmental<br />
and educational opportunities for children. The foundation<br />
has contributed more than $2.5 million to Gulf Coast<br />
organizations including the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Center for Creative<br />
Arts, Café Reconcile, St. Michael’s Special School, Parkway<br />
Partners, Covenant Café and the Covenant House.<br />
Noted for:<br />
I think it’s the ability to manage Emeril’s kitchen in a worldclass<br />
restaurant and to be able to maintain the high standards<br />
our customers have come to expect with the dishes we serve.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Seafood, especially shellfish<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Pasta combined with any of the local Louisiana seafood.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My grandparents and parents were incredible cooks, and I<br />
always grew up around food. Also growing up in Toronto, such<br />
a multicultural city, provided me with a lot of different cultures<br />
and food varieties I was exposed to and influenced my personal<br />
style of cooking I have today.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
30 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
SousChefs<br />
Emanuel jones<br />
Recently retired from The Rib Room<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I didn’t go to any culinary schools. I just<br />
learned by doing it.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
About 44 years<br />
Previous experience:<br />
None. I was cooking for a barroom on Fridays<br />
and Saturdays back in ’64, and the executive<br />
steward here got me in at the Royal <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
They weren’t hiring colored cooks, so I went<br />
in the stewarding department with him for<br />
about six months. I was tight with the cooks in<br />
there. There was a saucier chef named Harold<br />
Sage. One evening two cooks called in sick,<br />
and I just went back there and helped him and<br />
asked him how he wanted the steaks cooked.<br />
The next day, I came back and they had me.<br />
Then I went from the breakfast cook to the<br />
breakfast chef to the saucier chef to the banquet<br />
chef to the floor chef to the sous chef.<br />
Noted for:<br />
Red beans, fried chicken and gumbo<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Chicken base, fish base or beef base because<br />
it just brings out the flavor.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
That would be gumbo. Chicken, sausage and<br />
seafood. The secret is all in the roux, and you<br />
have to have a stock.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
I used to stay with my grandmother when I<br />
was little. I used to help her cook, and when I<br />
went back home my gumbo was a big thing.<br />
All the family and friends came over and said<br />
I was going to be a great chef someday. I just<br />
stayed on board.•<br />
— Craig Guillot<br />
Best<br />
SousChefs<br />
Brandon Muetzel<br />
Palace Café<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
No university degree or culinary degree, but<br />
I attended the University of Iowa between<br />
1995 and 2000 as an art major and Tulane<br />
University from 2006 to 2007 as a Russian<br />
language major.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Three<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Bourbon House Seafood and Oyster Bar from<br />
2002 to 2005 and Restaurant August in 2005.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I’m involved with the Young Leadership<br />
Council through Wednesdays at the Square,<br />
where I cook every couple of weeks, and Where<br />
Ya’ Rack, where I help install bike racks that<br />
businesses buy for their bike-riding employees.<br />
I also belong to 504ward and volunteer at the<br />
local farmer’s market twice a week, helping vendors<br />
with whatever they may need.<br />
Noted for:<br />
People skills. I think I have a good knack for<br />
managing people, managing the kitchen and<br />
teaching other cooks.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Eggs, for the simple fact they’re versatile.<br />
You can use them for breakfast, lunch, dinner,<br />
appetizers, desserts or garnishes. There<br />
isn’t much you can’t do with eggs.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Palace Café’s Pepper Duck dish. It’s a pepper-crusted<br />
duck breast with seared Hudson<br />
Valley foie gras and set on parsnip mashed<br />
potatoes with a citrus-confit salad and sauce<br />
au poivre.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
It dates back to my college days in Iowa. I<br />
was a chef at a restaurant, and I was looking<br />
forward to going to work more than I was<br />
going to classes. So I put all my energy into<br />
cooking and becoming a better chef. In<br />
2002, I made a commitment to cook professionally<br />
in a bigger city, so I decided to try<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>. I’ve had a pretty amazing education<br />
since I have been here. Every day is a<br />
different challenge, and that makes my work<br />
exciting.•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 31
Best<br />
SousChefs<br />
alfred singleton<br />
Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I grew up in a family restaurant in the Lower 9th Ward, but I<br />
learned all of my cooking skills on the job. My training really<br />
came after high school when I applied for a part-time job as a<br />
food runner. Once I saw what was going on in the kitchen, I<br />
really developed the desire to cook.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
I’ve been with Dickie Brennan’s for about three years. The<br />
theme here is “great steaks with a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> touch.” So coming<br />
from this area, I believe I bring a great deal of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
flavor along with my passion and ambition.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Line cook at Cafe Sbisa,executive sous chef at The Red Room and<br />
executive chef at Cafe Sbisa.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I recently worked with students at St. Ville Academy. I was able<br />
to talk to the kids about their interests and the importance of<br />
staying in school. I was also one of the guest chefs for the inaugural<br />
Treme Festival. I’ve had the opportunity to represent the<br />
city of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> as an ambassador for our regional cuisine<br />
in Medellin, Colombia, and I often present cooking demonstrations<br />
at the <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> Jazz and Heritage Festival.<br />
Noted for:<br />
I make a really good gumbo. If you want a great gumbo, then<br />
come see me.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
I like to deal with a lot of Louisiana products such as seafood,<br />
crabmeat and fresh tomatoes. Garlic, oysters and mushrooms are<br />
great, too, because they add a level of depth to any dish.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
My favorite dish is blackened redfish. If you’re into spicy dishes<br />
like I am, then you’ll really appreciate a blackened dish. To<br />
me, blackened products embody <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I have a great deal of ambition and passion for what I do. I love<br />
food and working with different products every day, and I enjoy<br />
giving the people of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> and from all over the world<br />
what they really want, and that’s great food.•<br />
— Nayita Wilson<br />
Best<br />
SousChefs<br />
heather young<br />
Galatoire’s Bistro<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I didn’t go to culinary school. I found that just working in<br />
Baton Rouge in certain places has given me everything I’ve<br />
needed to know.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Three<br />
Previous experience:<br />
When I first started, I worked at the French Market Bistro. You<br />
could be as creative as you wanted, and they encouraged that kind<br />
of creativity. I worked at a private dining club, the Camelot Club,<br />
which had lots of banquets and catering. Then I worked at a highvolume<br />
chain like Ruth’s Chris, and that wasn’t really the venue I<br />
liked. I worked at this other little place called Chicago’s as a line<br />
cook and worked my way up to executive chef.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We recently did a benefit for the battered women’s clinic in<br />
Baton Rouge and a wine dinner for Habitat for Humanity. We<br />
do stuff for the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra, the<br />
Cancer Society and Woman’s Hospital, who we’re trying to<br />
team up with to make a heart-healthy menu.<br />
Noted for:<br />
As silly as it sounds, they call me the soup queen. Every day we<br />
have a soup du jour, and I take all the leftovers and the scraps we<br />
don’t use — like potato and eggplant — and use them to the business’<br />
full capacity.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Sriracha (chili paste). I put it in everything. If you need a little bit of<br />
a vinegar shot or a little bit of a spice, it’s perfect for that, and people<br />
can’t really tell if it’s in there unless they know it’s me cooking.<br />
Favorite dish:<br />
Any day of the week, I could eat a seared rare tuna with a crawfish<br />
sauce — I could die eating that.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I was 16 when I first started working in restaurants, and my first<br />
job was busser/waiter. It’s getting up every day and not dreading<br />
to go to work, doing the day-to-day routine with the same<br />
guys who respect you and you respect them.•<br />
— Leah Bartos<br />
32 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
Sommeliers<br />
Joe Briand<br />
Link Restaurant Group<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
In addition to director of operations for the Link Restaurant<br />
Group — which includes Herbsaint, Couchon, Butcher and<br />
Calcasieu — I’m also the wine buyer.<br />
A few years back, I did the introductory course for the<br />
Guild of Sommeliers. I’ve done the second-level training with<br />
the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, but I get more out of my<br />
training in that I taste more than 100 different wines a week.<br />
I’m less interested in initials behind my name and more interested<br />
in spending time and money visiting the wine country.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Chef Donald Link established Link Restaurant Group in<br />
January to support his four restaurants and facilities. I have<br />
been director of operations since the business formed and<br />
have worked at Herbsaint since 2001.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I waited tables while I was at Christian Brothers University in<br />
Memphis, (Tenn.), and I worked at Vaquero’s on Prytania Street.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I’m on the board for the Susan G. Komen for the Cure Foundation.<br />
Every year, we have a Summer Cure Chefs Wine Dinner. I coordinate<br />
to get the chefs to cook, and I handle the wine.<br />
Favorite wine:<br />
Wine from the Burgundy region in France.<br />
Most expensive bottle opened:<br />
I’ve pulled corks for customers for a few thousand dollars. …<br />
Occasionally we’ll get someone who is a real collector. They<br />
call ahead and let you know they are bringing a bottle.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
Before I worked at Herbsaint, I had never seen a restaurant so<br />
focused on putting out good food. It’s also been an inspiration<br />
to work with (chefs) Donald Link, Susan Spicer and all the<br />
people at Herbsaint. After Katrina, it was an inspiration to be<br />
one of the first restaurants to open and to see people have their<br />
first fancy dinner out where they saw their friends for the first<br />
time since the storm.•<br />
— Amy Ferrara Smith<br />
Best<br />
PastryChefs<br />
Simone fleming<br />
Mélange at the Ritz-Carlton<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I have culinary training from Delgado<br />
Community College and Notter School of<br />
Pastry Arts in Orlando, Fla.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
About eight years with the Ritz-Carlton.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I was the assistant pastry chef at Palace Café<br />
and worked in various positions at the<br />
Windham, Radisson and at the Ritz-Carlton in<br />
Naples Beach, Fla.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I do classes at Phoebe Hearst Elementary<br />
School with a program called “Table Etiquette<br />
for First-Graders.” The Ritz-Carlton provides<br />
a lunch and I bring it to the class, and we go<br />
over how to act at a table and properly eat your<br />
food. I also go there to do “Green Eggs and<br />
Ham” day and cook it in front of them while<br />
they read the story. We also do that with gingerbread<br />
for Christmas. I’ve also been working<br />
with the Ben Sarrat Jr. Foundation to raise<br />
money for a local child who has been diagnosed<br />
with inoperable brain cancer.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
The sweet potato because it is extremely versatile<br />
and savory. It has a fantastic texture that<br />
lends itself to multiple uses. I’m a Louisiana<br />
girl, and I love my yams.<br />
Favorite dessert:<br />
Panna cotta. It’s an Italian cooked cream that<br />
is smooth and delicious. It is like a cloud and<br />
never lets you down. It is impossible to mess<br />
up one of those few flawless creations that no<br />
matter how finicky the eater, they will never<br />
turn away from it.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
When I was growing up, we did not have a<br />
whole lot of money and my family wasn’t<br />
particularly adventurous with food. I always<br />
wanted to try new things I saw on TV. When<br />
I got older, my mother would bring me into<br />
the kitchen, and she would just bake blind<br />
without recipes. She was probably my greatest<br />
inspiration.•<br />
— Craig Guillot<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 33
Best<br />
PastryChefs<br />
tariq hanna<br />
Sucré<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I attended the <strong>Culinary</strong> Studies Institute in<br />
Farmington Hills, Mich., outside of Detroit. I<br />
graduated in 1991 with an associate’s degree<br />
of occupational studies in culinary arts and<br />
focused mainly in savory cuisine. I made the<br />
full-time switch to pastry about 15 years ago<br />
and for the most part I am self-taught, although<br />
I attend any and every class or demo I can<br />
around the country.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Two<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Before moving to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>, I spent seven<br />
years as the executive pastry chef and executive<br />
sous chef at Motor<strong>City</strong> Casino in Detroit.<br />
While there, I also returned to my alma mater as<br />
a culinary instructor in the pastry art and baking<br />
program. I taught the advanced pastry and<br />
advanced plated dessert classes.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Passion and rock ’n’ roll<br />
Favorite dessert:<br />
A really good vanilla éclair. My favorite guilty<br />
pleasure, though — Little Debbie Swiss Rolls<br />
right out of the fridge.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
<strong>Culinary</strong> Salon (food competition) — I was<br />
blown away by the artistic possibilities one<br />
could achieve with food. That’s when I knew<br />
this was a career for me. Prior to that, without<br />
getting too cliché, my mother was the<br />
greatest cook I ever knew.•<br />
— John Breerwood<br />
Best<br />
PastryChefs<br />
Andre mckendall<br />
Commander’s Palace<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Two years and four months. It’s one of the<br />
best restaurants in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Six months at The Melting Pot and six months<br />
at Whole Foods. It got me used to knife skills,<br />
and it let me know what I was getting into, the<br />
business side of it.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Truffle oil, chocolate and thyme<br />
Favorite dessert:<br />
Watermelon sorbet<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
I used to cook with my mom when I was little,<br />
baking cakes. As I got older, I realized it<br />
was something I was good at, so I thought I’d<br />
give it a try and it’s worked out so far.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
34 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
Best<br />
PastryChefs<br />
laurent moecklin<br />
Swiss Confectionery<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
Not related to the industry,I have a bachelor’s degree from Louisiana<br />
State University. As far as culinary education, I have a professional<br />
degree from the American Institute of Baking, but I mostly learned<br />
from the hands-on training with my father and grandfather.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
I started working summers during high school back in 1970 but<br />
went full-time in 1976.<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Other than working those summers, I worked in a bakery in<br />
Baton Rouge when I was in college. I also was the production<br />
manager at McKenzie’s Bakery.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We donate sweets to church fairs, school fairs and other organizations<br />
such as Zoo-to-Do. We are involved in almost all high school<br />
fundraisers and fairs.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
Strawberry. I just like the flavor.<br />
Favorite dessert:<br />
Of the ones I make, I’d say the brownies. My overall favorite,<br />
though, is crème brulee, but that’s more of a restaurant dessert.<br />
We’re a bakery.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
Other than working alongside my father and grandfather, I realized<br />
I didn’t want to be a math teacher after I graduated. I enjoy<br />
the baking part but not really the running the business part.•<br />
— John Breerwood<br />
Best<br />
PastryChefs<br />
Marguerite riehm<br />
Marguerite’s Cakes<br />
PHOTO BY TRACIE MORRIS SCHAEFER<br />
Professional training and education:<br />
I never had any formal training. Baking is something that’s been<br />
inside of me. I started baking around the house when I was 11<br />
years old.<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
30 years<br />
Previous experience:<br />
I worked in the insurance industry after graduating from high<br />
school until I had my first child in 1975. I started baking in<br />
1978, doing cakes for friends and sold cakes out of my home<br />
until 1990. I opened my first storefront in 1991.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I always donate pastries to guesthouses, senior citizens homes,<br />
fairs and churches. For the past six years, I’ve donated to K-Bar-<br />
B’s annual gala, which helps raise money for unwed mothers.<br />
Favorite ingredient:<br />
I love almond extract. It adds a special touch and, to me, is a<br />
unique flavor to <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
Favorite dessert:<br />
My favorite would be the fresh fruitcake, which is a five-layer<br />
cake with fresh fruit on top. My customers love the doberge cake,<br />
petit fours and turtles.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
My older sister.•<br />
— Nayita Wilson<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 35
Best<br />
Maitre D’s<br />
Michael Juan<br />
Le Parvenu<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Seven<br />
Previous experience:<br />
Before Le Parvenu, I spent two years at the<br />
Court of Two Sisters as a maitre d’ and manager<br />
and 10 years at Christian’s Restaurant as<br />
maitre d’, where I learned to love the local<br />
diners. Before that, I worked at a host of<br />
other restaurants, including Broussard’s,<br />
Louis XVI and Arnaud’s, and establishments<br />
at the Hyatt and Sheraton hotels.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
As a member of the Kenner Lions Club, I<br />
participate in various events, including serving<br />
food during Oktoberfest and collecting<br />
nonperishable food items for the Kenner<br />
Food Bank. I’m a volunteer with the Special<br />
Olympics and the National Football League<br />
Players Association.<br />
Most notable guests:<br />
While tending bar at the Hyatt Hotel, I once<br />
served President Ford, who was in town during<br />
his term. That’s when I learned everyone<br />
should be given the presidential treatment.<br />
That is why if someone noteworthy comes<br />
in, I feel it is best to treat them the same as<br />
any other guest. Of course, there are some<br />
exceptions — my mother, for one.<br />
Worst experience:<br />
This is very sad, but one of my favorite customers<br />
passed away in the restaurant. I consoled<br />
his wife until the ambulance came.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
Felix, a former maitre d’ at Broussard’s,<br />
taught me the difference between a maitre d’<br />
and a manager.•<br />
— Diana Chandler<br />
Legend<br />
Ella brennan<br />
Commander’s Palace Family of Restaurants<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years in industry:<br />
59. Ella Brennan began working in the<br />
industry in 1946 as a kitchen supervisor for<br />
her brother, Owen Edward Brennan, who<br />
opened Owen Brennan’s French and Creole<br />
Restaurant in July 1946. Ella became manager<br />
in 1955 when Owen passed away.<br />
The Brennans bought Commander’s<br />
Palace in 1969 and began working in the<br />
restaurant in 1974. Ella retired from the dayto-day<br />
operations of the Commander’s Palace<br />
Family of Restaurants after Hurricane Katrina.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
“I spent a lot of time on boards throughout<br />
my years, but the most meaningful community<br />
work I did was my time with the <strong>New</strong><br />
<strong>Orleans</strong> Restaurant Association. We used to<br />
have board meetings on my porch and talk<br />
about promoting tourism and visitors coming<br />
to the city. I was there really for the birth<br />
of it all — <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> becoming a great<br />
restaurant attraction.<br />
“It’s interesting to see how bad we need<br />
our tourism and convention business to<br />
return now and help our restaurants. That<br />
can happen, but we need strong leadership<br />
in the city to see it through.”<br />
Major milestones:<br />
“When we started working at Commander’s<br />
Palace the day after Mardi Gras in 1974, it<br />
began one of the most rewarding years of my<br />
life. Everybody in our family went to work<br />
there and did everything they knew best to<br />
make it the best restaurant in <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong>.<br />
That’s still our goal as a family today.”<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary<br />
industry:<br />
“When I was 21, my brother, Owen, and my<br />
father bought a restaurant, the Vieux Carre,<br />
and I went to eat there frequently and I didn’t<br />
like it. I thought it wasn’t a very good restaurant<br />
and I kept complaining to them, so<br />
Owen said, ‘If you think you can do better,<br />
then you run the restaurant.’ I told him I knew<br />
good food because my mother was a great<br />
cook. So I got into the business for good.<br />
“I learned a lot from Owen, and he found<br />
a business we could all do together. My mother<br />
and father always taught us to respect and<br />
support each other. I always loved the family<br />
aspect of the business. I find the business<br />
very exciting, challenging and stimulating,<br />
everything you would want in your job.”•<br />
— Tommy Santora<br />
36 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
lifetime<br />
Achievement<br />
sterling constant<br />
Antoine’s<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
It will be 42 in July. I started as a cook in the kitchen in 1967.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
With our clientele, we know how they want things, and you<br />
know, they’re very particular people. Not that they’re getting<br />
any food different than anybody else, it’s just that the locals<br />
want you to be here for them. Anybody who comes through<br />
the door who needs any help, I’m here to assist them with<br />
whatever they need.<br />
Every person you serve is different. You just have to feel the<br />
guests out and see how they are. You can joke with some people,<br />
and some people you can’t. The elderly crowd, years ago,<br />
used to come here to dine, and they’d sit here for two to three<br />
hours. Now, the young crowd, the faster you serve them, the better<br />
they like it because they want to get out there on the streets.<br />
When people have a big party and want to get out at a certain<br />
time, I always tell them as fast as y’all can eat, I’ll get you<br />
served. Things like that, you just have to go around and feel the<br />
guests out. A couple of movie stars I’ve waited on include<br />
Tommy Lee Jones, Buddy Ebsen, Jackie Gleason, Nicolas<br />
Cage. And they did the “JFK” movie down here with Kevin<br />
Costner (which was shot partially inside Antoine’s). I was an<br />
extra in the movie.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
If I didn’t work here, I don’t know what I would do with<br />
myself. I come in every day about 9:30 a.m. or 10 a.m. and<br />
check the dining rooms and do things like that. If I had to stay<br />
home, I’d go crazy. I’m so used to it.<br />
Besides my waiter job, I take care of ordering extra tables and<br />
equipment and things the restaurant might need. I can walk into<br />
this restaurant and tell you when the tables are out of place just<br />
by looking at the dining room. I can just look at the legs of the<br />
table and tell you if it’s in the right place or not. After 42 years,<br />
you come in and you look at it, and you know it ain’t right.•<br />
— Leah Bartos<br />
lifetime<br />
Achievement<br />
sandy & bob defelice<br />
Pascal’s Manale<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
Bob and Sandy DeFelice have been in the business for about<br />
21 years. “Actually, it’s in the family, so we’ve been involved a<br />
bit longer than that,” Bob DeFelice said. Pascal’s Manale has<br />
been a <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> establishment since 1913, when Frank<br />
Manale opened the restaurant. Around 1939, Pascal Radosta<br />
bought the restaurant from Frank Manale’s widow and<br />
renamed it Pascal’s Manale. Today, together with their sister<br />
Ginny and brother Mark, Bob and Sandy DeFelice continue<br />
the tradition at the family-operated restaurant.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
For the past 19 years, Bob DeFelice has been a volunteer exhibit<br />
diver at the Aquarium of the Americas. He has also been on<br />
the CrimeStoppers board of directors for about 12 years and<br />
the Better <strong>Business</strong> Bureau board of directors. Sandy DeFelice<br />
also has been a member of the St. Catherine of Siena Men’s<br />
Club and volunteered as the school’s girls’ baseball coach.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
“We’re about to come on it — our 100-year anniversary,” Bob<br />
DeFelice said. “We’ve had 95 years of being in business. Also, we<br />
have three generations active in the business.” Virginia and<br />
Savare DeFelice, parents of Bob, Sandy, Ginny and Mark, still<br />
make appearances at the restaurant.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
“I guess it’s something that’s kind of in the family,” Bob<br />
DeFelice said. “Since the mid-’70s, I’ve had an opportunity to<br />
Sandy, left, and Bob DeFelice<br />
work here, and I took that. Being in the hospitality business,<br />
in a way we’re giving something back.”<br />
Sandy DeFelice agreed. “Let’s just say I was born into it<br />
and grew up in it. I started working here when I was at (De La<br />
Salle) high school in 1966.”•<br />
— Amy Ferrara Smith<br />
<strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> April 20, 2009 37
lifetime<br />
Achievement<br />
shirley lee<br />
Royal China<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
We started in 1978 and opened at the same location where we<br />
are today. I am the owner and do everything here. I am here<br />
almost seven days a week. All together, we have five people<br />
who work here.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
We have done some charity events. When the late Sheriff<br />
Harry Lee was alive, he would ask us to do different things,<br />
like something for the Children’s Hospital, and we would.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
Having Harry Lee come in here so many times. He loved it here<br />
and always sat near the front. Anything he wanted, we would do<br />
for him. I came to know so many other political people who also<br />
have liked to come here. Bobby Jindal used to be a regular customer,<br />
although I think he is too busy since he has become governor<br />
to visit us again. But (Jefferson Parish President) Aaron<br />
Broussard, also, and so many others who are in politics — I like<br />
that they come here.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
I worked in a Chinese restaurant in <strong>New</strong> York and moved here<br />
in 1977. People told me to move away from <strong>New</strong> York if I wanted<br />
to start a business. After we opened, I felt very happy we did<br />
it here instead of in <strong>New</strong> York, where people are not that<br />
friendly. I felt lucky because I found something to do that I like<br />
very much. The customers became my friends.<br />
I am here from the first person who comes in to the last person<br />
closing the door, and I know just about every single person<br />
who comes in here.<br />
Southern people, our customers, are so friendly. They kiss<br />
and hug and ask you how you are doing. If you did that in <strong>New</strong><br />
York, they would look at you like you are crazy or something.<br />
My customers call this “Shirley’s Place,” or they say “Let’s go<br />
over and see Shirley.” I sometimes wonder if people don’t know<br />
the name of the restaurant.•<br />
— Garry Boulard<br />
lifetime<br />
Achievement<br />
jorge pesantes<br />
The Rib Room<br />
PHOTO BY FRANK AYMAMI<br />
Years at establishment:<br />
I started working at the Riviera as a lifeguard on March 25, 1962.<br />
Then, when they closed it down for the season, I went to work in<br />
the Esplanade Dining Room as a captain. I started working at<br />
The Rib Room around 1964 as a captain, and then a few months<br />
later I was promoted to assistant maitre d’. In all, I have worked<br />
with the company for 47 years. I enjoy the atmosphere, serving<br />
the guests, and I still have fond memories of the past supervisors<br />
who were wonderful with us.<br />
The Rib Room server Jorge<br />
Pesantes chats with regular<br />
customers Knox Tumlyn,<br />
left, and Pat Gootee.<br />
Community involvement:<br />
I do not physically do any community work, but I do give<br />
money to the United Way and church. I also sponsor a child<br />
through Children’s International, which helps poor children<br />
in third world countries through donations.<br />
Major milestones:<br />
The major milestone in my career is that I have been able to provide<br />
excellent service to all the actors and political figures I have<br />
met. One day I served George Hamilton and his girlfriend, who<br />
was President Lyndon B. Johnson’s daughter — Linda Bird<br />
Johnson. When they filmed the movie “Number One,” I got to<br />
meet Charlton Heston. Every moment I have spent in The Rib<br />
Room is always a proud one.<br />
Inspiration to work in the culinary industry:<br />
At first, I did not really have an inspiration to work in the hospitality<br />
industry, but once I started working I fell in love with the<br />
food and the people I served.•<br />
— Fritz Esker<br />
38 <strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>
s p o n s o r e d b y :<br />
THE GLAZER’S COMPANIES OF LOUISIANA IS PROUD TO ANNOUNCE THAT<br />
IT HAS BEEN SELECTED TO DISTRIBUTE MAKER’S MARK IN LOUISIANA.<br />
At Maker’s Mark we embrace a rich tradition of bourbon making<br />
that spans six generations. In fact, we’re so proud of our family that we’ve developed<br />
a heritage team to travel the world educating folks on the finer points<br />
of Maker’s Mark Bourbon and bourbon in general.
s p o n s o r e d b y :<br />
Mercedes-Benz of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong><br />
3727 Veterans Memorial Blvd., Metairie, LA (504) 456-3727<br />
Mercedes-Benz of <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> is proud to sponsor the <strong>City</strong><strong>Business</strong> 2009<br />
<strong>Culinary</strong> <strong>Connoisseurs</strong>. <strong>New</strong> <strong>Orleans</strong> cuisine is second to none and we all take<br />
pride in the reputation our restaurants bring to our city. They set the standards<br />
for others to follow. At Mercedes-Benz, we know a thing or two about setting<br />
standards. Take, for instance the all new 2009 GLK. The GLK builds on the<br />
commitment to excellence that Mercedes-Benz has displayed for over 100 years.