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thrill for the dog is ‘Will I get a treat this time’” Back-aches from stooping low to feed a dog, or the added cost of extra chicken or doggy treats, he believes, are far less dreadful than the anxiety and altered relationships caused by the punitive alternative. Dodman has some data to back him up. In February 2004, a paper in Animal Welfare by Elly Hiby and colleagues at the University of Bristol compared the relative effectiveness of the positive and punitive methods for the first time. The dogs became more obedient the more they were trained using rewards. When they were punished, on the other hand, the only significant change was a corresponding rise in the number of bad behaviors. A series of more recent papers also support Dodman’s theory and Hiby’s results. A study published in the October 2008 issue of Journal of Veterinary Behavior found that positive reinforcement led to the lowest average scores for fear and attentionseeking behaviors, while aggression scores were higher in dogs of owners who used punishment. Another 2008 study, this one published in Applied Animal Behavior Science, found that positive training methods resulted in better performances than punishment for Belgian military dog handlers. Bridging the differences in dogma It’s hard to argue that the slow, patient techniques used in positive reinforcement would elicit the same dramatic moments seen on Cesar Millan’s show. “There’s a big difference between looking at behavior as a ‘Stop that’ versus a ‘Here’s what I want,’” says Bruce Blumberg, a professor of dog psychology at the Harvard Extension School. “Positive reinforcement is a different mindset. And it’s one that doesn’t work quite as well on TV.” Dodman is one of many people who have asked the National Geographic Channel to discontinue “The Dog Whisperer,” consistently one of the highest-rated shows on the network. The American Humane Association issued a press statement in 2006 asking for a cancellation because of what they suggested were abusive techniques used by Millan. More recently, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior issued a position statement in which it expresses concern “with the recent reemergence of dominance theory and forcing dogs and other animals into submission as a means of preventing and correcting behaviors.” Millan defends his methods, asserting they “use the minimum force necessary to prevent or correct a problem.” According to the dog rehabilitator, he can “redirect the behavior of most of my pack with just my body language, eye contact and energy.” He points to the “thousands upon thousands of letters” he receives from viewers touting “miracles” of restored relationships and saved dogs. “All I want is what is best for the animal,” Millan says. Despite the controversy, there is a lot that everyone agrees on. Both sides of the training spectrum teach that a lack of discipline or structure is not conducive to a well-behaved dog. “Dogs need direction and boundaries, just like human relationships,” says Haggerty, the trainer from the School for Dogs in Manhattan, which uses dominance theory. “If dogs don’t know what the boundaries are, they will wreak havoc.” How a dog owner projects those boundaries is also important. “You have to be calm, you have to be clear, you have to be consistent, and you have to make sure you meet your pet’s needs for other things: exercise, play, social interaction,” says Herron of The Ohio State University. So what does an owner do when a calm and structured environment still breeds a misfit pup like JonBee Should it be the leash and hand that redirects the dog, or poultry and patience Current science favors the chicken flavor. But whichever strategy you choose, everyone agrees that the timing must be precise. It is very difficult for a dog to make an appropriate association and learn from the reprimand or reward otherwise. Of course, if you take Blumberg’s Harvard class, he'll tell you, “If your timing is lousy using positive reinforcement, the worst thing that happens is you get a fat dog.” This article is provided by Scienceline, a project of New York University's Science, Health and Environmental Reporting Program. Lynne Peeples (www.lynnepeeples.com) lives in New York City, and has written for Scientific American online and Audubon Magazine. Dogs...Naturally! January/February 2010 | 34
Submitted by Roberta Jamieson Lepus Perm. Reg’d Whippets (1976) & Italian Greyhounds (1991) When you have a litter on its way, or just born, be sure to have the following on hand as soon as possible: Several bags of Lactated Ringers solution for giving Sub- Cutaneous fluids (Sub Q fluids). If the pups are large breed and if it is a large litter I would say at least ten bags, but for toy breeds , 3 or 4 bags total should do for a couple days. Included with this you will need at least two to three lines and many #20 or 22 gauge sharps (I prefer the #20 to #22, as the fluid will enter under the skin faster). You can inject the ringers via syringe, if you can’t get the IV type line from your vet. Remember that if you are giving sub Q fluids the bag must be warmed to body temperature: this is extremely important. Do this by placing the bag in a bowl of hot tap water for a few minutes until the bag fluids feel warm to the touch; and remember if you are using an IV type line, that the bag must be hung higher than the puppy laying in your lap for good flow. The fluid will slightly cool on its way down the line, so warming the bag slightly higher than body temp is a good idea. Cold sub Q Fluids could make a pup go into shock, especially when you are trying to keep sick puppies warm. Have lots of syringes or large eyedroppers to give oral fluids. Plain Pedialyte (available at most pharmacies) Colloidal Silver (available from most health food stores, although it's best to buy a CS maker to make your own.) Herbal tinctures: oregon grape tincture, astragalus, ecchinacea ( I mix the Pedialyte half and half with colloidal silver, and I add about 4 drops of each of oregon grape tincture, astragalus tincture & echinacea tincture) This is given orally. I will give the 50:50 Pedialyte/CS mix as an enema if the puppy is not keeping the fluids down well. If they don't keep the enema in, then I immediately start sub Q fluids with the above ringers solution. You can also use oil of oregano, however it is not taken well by sick puppies (it is very strong and may interfere with homeopathy if you choose to use it). Keep aconite 30c and Australian Bush Flower Emergency Essence (aka ABFE Emergency Essence) on hand. Aconite is to be given to all pups the minute you suspect the first puppy is sick. My rule of thumb is that if one is acting a little off (sleepier than normal) with some foamy vomit or diarrhea, assume it is parvo. After the aconite is used, you should use the ABFE Emergency Essence two to 3 times a day for mildly sick pups. If the puppies become very ill and are in need of Sub Q fluids (i.e. they will not take or hold oral/enema fluids), then increase the ABFE Emergency Essence to every hour or two dosing. It is important that all affected puppies are kept separate from the litter in a secure area (such as an X-pen). The puppies must be near a heat source and their enclosure must prevent drafts. Some of those things are more important to have on hand than others (i.e. some people prefer to treat straight homeopathically rather than with herbal tincture, CS or the like). The main thing is to prevent the pups from having shock, dehydration and pain. The ABFE Emergency Essence is for shock and pain, and the aconite is for the initial body shock of the illness, and can help prepare and prevent the rest of the litter from getting very ill once the first puppy starts showing signs of illness. The extremely important things to have on hand (and to know how to use/give) are the lactated ringers, syringes or eyedroppers, Pedialyte, the aconite 30C or ABFE Emergency Essence (or a homeopathy kit and knowledge on how/when to use) and a draft free and warm location for the puppies. If you would like to contribute to Reader Submissions, please send your article to readersubmission@dogsnaturallymagazine.com www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com January/February 2010 | 35
Page 1 and 2: For Dogs Without Boundaries Volume
Page 3 and 4: Editorials My dogs are my friends a
Page 5 and 6: Teaching Puppies Bite Inhibition Bi
Page 7 and 8: What was the original purpose of th
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Page 41 and 42: for high-risk exposure situations.
Page 43 and 44: TABLE I FACTORS ASSOCIATED WITH AUT
Page 45 and 46: BIS UCh. Lepus Sabe Of Naboo 'Boo'
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Page 51 and 52: The difficulty in the induction int

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