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Areial view of Kirishima National Park<br />

North Kyushu<br />

Nagasaki is Kyushu’s best-known city, made<br />

infamous on 9th August 1945 as the site of the<br />

second atomic bomb. The understated Peace<br />

Park and museum are a likely point of interest for<br />

every visitor, but Nagasaki’s topography mercifully<br />

protected the city from being totally destroyed<br />

and today it is a vibrant, forward-looking place.<br />

The blend of western and Japanese architecture<br />

at the Glover Gardens and the foreign enclave of<br />

Dejima show what living conditions were like for<br />

those original Dutch residents, and the story of<br />

Nagasaki’s secret Christians displays a darker side<br />

of Japan. <strong>Travel</strong>ling across Ariake Bay to<br />

Kumamoto brings you to one of the country’s<br />

finest castles, with its excellent museum and<br />

panoramic views. A short drive from here into<br />

Kyushu’s wild interior is the vast and stunning<br />

spread of the world’s largest caldera, with volcanic<br />

Nagasaki Peace Park<br />

32<br />

Mount Aso smouldering in the centre. To the<br />

north-east of the Aso-Kuju National Park, the hot<br />

spring resorts of Kurokawa and Yufuin offer a<br />

tranquil and relaxing break from sightseeing.<br />

OKONOYU RYOKAN, KUROKAWA<br />

The Okunoyu ryokan is located in the famous<br />

Kurokawa valley and receives its copious supply of<br />

geothermal waters from the active volcano Kuju,<br />

on which it sits. The ryokan is set in lush grounds,<br />

adjacent to the Kurokawa River. Just off the main<br />

street in Kurokawa, this ryokan’s surroundings<br />

make it one of the most attractive in the valley.<br />

Rooms are traditionally minimalist and the food<br />

is sumptuous ryokan cuisine.<br />

South Kyushu<br />

For those with an interest in Kyushu’s turbulent<br />

history, the warm and friendly city of Kagoshima<br />

is a good place to visit. Birthplace of the famous<br />

rebel Saigo Takamori, the city played a key role in<br />

the Meiji Restoration and the subsequent Satsuma<br />

Rebellion. Kagoshima boasts many historical sites<br />

and one of the best gardens in Kyushu at Suizenji.<br />

In the middle of the bay, Sakurajima, one of the<br />

world’s most active volcanoes, spews out smoke<br />

and ash with ominous frequency. Just an hour’s<br />

drive from the city brings you to the heart of<br />

Kirishima National Park, where you can hike<br />

through the inspiring scenery before relaxing in<br />

one of the many onsen resorts that dot the area.<br />

Entrance to the Okunoyu Ryokan<br />

Yakushima Island<br />

One-fifth of Yakushima island is registered as a<br />

UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are as<br />

many as six mountain peaks over 1,800 metres<br />

high, including Miyanoura-dake, which at 1,935<br />

metres above sea level is the highest mountain<br />

in Kyushu and what gives the island its alternative<br />

name of ‘Alps of the Ocean’ The island is said<br />

to have one of the world’s highest precipitation<br />

rates, with the heaviest rainfall in spring and<br />

summer. The main draw is the Shiratani Unsuikyo<br />

Ravine forest, which is home to the abundant<br />

Yaku-sugi cedar trees which gave the island its<br />

UNESCO listing in 1994. Some of the cedars are<br />

said to date back more than 5,000 years and have<br />

been given individual names, such as the oldest<br />

cedar, the Jomon-sugi.

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