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Autumn foliage at Daikozenji temple, Kyushu<br />
Autumn<br />
By September, temperatures start to cool but<br />
the sun continues to shine, making this a good<br />
time of year to visit. The subtle red and gold<br />
hues of the autumn colours start to appear in<br />
Hokkaido in late September and then travel<br />
south to Kyoto and Tokyo by mid November.<br />
Autumn is a glorious time to be in Japan as<br />
the countryside blazes with the fiery reds and<br />
dazzling oranges of the turning leaves of the<br />
indigenous momiji maple tree. The climate is<br />
temperate and dry and since the colours cover<br />
great swathes of the mainland there are plenty<br />
of opportunities to take in the beauty, either<br />
while hiking through the Japan Alps or strolling<br />
through the quiet back streets of Kyoto or on<br />
Miyajima Island. Walking a section of the<br />
Nakasendo Highway, the ancient road between<br />
Kyoto and Tokyo, at this time of year highlights<br />
the particularly beautiful woodland scenery of<br />
the Kiso Valley.<br />
Winter<br />
Winter in Hokkaido stretches from late<br />
October through to March and the Siberian<br />
fronts bring icy cold winds and heavy snowfall.<br />
On the mainland, the winter months are<br />
December, January and February, with snowfall<br />
in Tohoku and the Alps region but a relatively<br />
mild climate in Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku and<br />
Kyushu islands. Crisp air, clear blue skies and dry<br />
weather mean that winter shouldn’t be a barrier<br />
to travel in Japan. Even in Hokkaido there is<br />
plenty to do during the coldest months, from<br />
birdwatching in Kushiro and Sapporo’s Snow<br />
festival in February to world-class skiing in<br />
Niseko and Furano until April or May. January<br />
sees the New Year, or O-shogatsu, the biggest<br />
holiday in the Japanese calendar; celebrating<br />
the coming of the new year with thousands<br />
of people at Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu shrine is a<br />
remarkable experience. From snowy castle<br />
landscapes and glittering lamp-lit shrines in the<br />
dark evenings to warm sake and piping hot<br />
bowls of ramen in bustling restaurants, Japan<br />
takes on a different, more excitable air in the<br />
winter. When it snows there really is nothing<br />
better than sitting in a rotemburo hot spring<br />
bath as the flakes land softly on your head<br />
and steam rises all around you.<br />
Snowy pagoda, Kyoto<br />
www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Seasons 29