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Autumn foliage at Daikozenji temple, Kyushu<br />

Autumn<br />

By September, temperatures start to cool but<br />

the sun continues to shine, making this a good<br />

time of year to visit. The subtle red and gold<br />

hues of the autumn colours start to appear in<br />

Hokkaido in late September and then travel<br />

south to Kyoto and Tokyo by mid November.<br />

Autumn is a glorious time to be in Japan as<br />

the countryside blazes with the fiery reds and<br />

dazzling oranges of the turning leaves of the<br />

indigenous momiji maple tree. The climate is<br />

temperate and dry and since the colours cover<br />

great swathes of the mainland there are plenty<br />

of opportunities to take in the beauty, either<br />

while hiking through the Japan Alps or strolling<br />

through the quiet back streets of Kyoto or on<br />

Miyajima Island. Walking a section of the<br />

Nakasendo Highway, the ancient road between<br />

Kyoto and Tokyo, at this time of year highlights<br />

the particularly beautiful woodland scenery of<br />

the Kiso Valley.<br />

Winter<br />

Winter in Hokkaido stretches from late<br />

October through to March and the Siberian<br />

fronts bring icy cold winds and heavy snowfall.<br />

On the mainland, the winter months are<br />

December, January and February, with snowfall<br />

in Tohoku and the Alps region but a relatively<br />

mild climate in Kyoto, Hiroshima, Shikoku and<br />

Kyushu islands. Crisp air, clear blue skies and dry<br />

weather mean that winter shouldn’t be a barrier<br />

to travel in Japan. Even in Hokkaido there is<br />

plenty to do during the coldest months, from<br />

birdwatching in Kushiro and Sapporo’s Snow<br />

festival in February to world-class skiing in<br />

Niseko and Furano until April or May. January<br />

sees the New Year, or O-shogatsu, the biggest<br />

holiday in the Japanese calendar; celebrating<br />

the coming of the new year with thousands<br />

of people at Tokyo’s Meiji Jingu shrine is a<br />

remarkable experience. From snowy castle<br />

landscapes and glittering lamp-lit shrines in the<br />

dark evenings to warm sake and piping hot<br />

bowls of ramen in bustling restaurants, Japan<br />

takes on a different, more excitable air in the<br />

winter. When it snows there really is nothing<br />

better than sitting in a rotemburo hot spring<br />

bath as the flakes land softly on your head<br />

and steam rises all around you.<br />

Snowy pagoda, Kyoto<br />

www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Seasons 29

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