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Daisetsu-zan National Park Sapporo & Hakodate Hokkaido’s capital Sapporo dates back only 120 years, and this bright, cosmopolitan city, well-endowed with gardens and parks, makes the perfect base from which to head out and explore the island. In recent times it has played host to matches in the 2002 football World Cup and the 1972 Winter Olympics, and each February the city welcomes the world to the wonderful Sapporo Snow Festival, an ice-sculpting extravaganza on an epic scale. Further south, separated from the mainland by the narrow Tsugaru Straits, is the charming port town of Hakodate. There is something of the feel of Nagasaki here, with the intriguing mixture of Japanese and Western architecture giving an unexpectedly international atmosphere. Take a cable-car at dusk to the summit of Mount Hakodate and watch as the sparkling lights of the town radiate out into the distance. Sapporo Snow Festival 24 Hokkaido’s National Parks Hokkaido is blessed with stunning natural scenery, carved by the elements and sculpted by ongoing volcanic activity. The island is dotted with national parks, from the picturesque caldera lakes of Shikotsu-Toya near Sapporo, home to active volcanoes, to the rugged wilderness of the bear-haunted Shiretoko Peninsula that juts out east into the cold Sea of Okhotsk. The centre of Hokkaido rises to the high peaks of Daisetsu-zan Hokkaido’s history Hokkaido’s history is long and, at times, dark. The island was not settled upon by mainlanders until the 1600s, when trade links were established by the ruling Shogunate clan. This offered the indigenous Ainu population a chance for wealth and commerce but was also ultimately their undoing; they were persecuted and forced out of their homelands, with some restrictions lasting until as late as the 1990s. During this time the Ainu were forced to learn Japanese, required to adopt Japanese names and ordered to cease religious practices such as animal sacrifice and the custom of tattooing. It was not until 2008 that the Ainu were officially recognised as National Park, the largest and perhaps most beautiful region on the island. In summer this is wonderful walking country, with cable-cars offering easy access to summits carpeted with alpine flowers. For those with an interest in bird watching, winter brings an influx of rare and spectacular visitors. One of Japan’s national symbols, the red-crested crane, spends its winters at Kushiro Wetland National Park, while Akan National Park and the eastern regions host the magnificent Steller’s sea eagles. Sketch of Ainu men in traditional costume an indigenous group, resulting in better relations with the mainland and a renaissance of Ainu traditions. Several Ainu museums have been set up in Hokkaido giving visitors to the island a chance to better understand their history and customs.
Wintersports Some of the world’s best skiing and snowboarding and, in particular, powder snow are to be found in the ski resorts of Hakuba in Honshu and Niseko and Furano in Hokkaido. The ski season lasts from December until April, with guaranteed snow throughout. There are ski and snowboarding runs for all levels of experience, plus some off-piste and night skiing. Each resort has the usual range of alpine hotels, self-catering lodges and small family-run guesthouses, suitable for a variety of budgets. Skiing in Japan is relatively cheap in comparison with some of the top European and American destinations, and travelling with ski equipment is simple and cost-effective. Japan’s reliable public transport system means that travel between airports or train stations and resorts is quick and keeps costs to a minimum. Other key ski and snowboarding resorts in Japan include Shiga Kogen, which is one of the world’s largest ski centres, and Nozawa Onsen, both located in Nagano prefecture on Honshu island. One of the best things about skiing in Japan is that most accommodation has hot spring bathing facilities. Combined with steaming hot pot dinners made with the freshest ingredients, there really is no better form of apres-ski. Skiier, Niseko Winter crab nabe (hot pot) Winter bather, Hokkaido Sendai & Matsushima Tohoku’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, Sendai, is the ideal staging post for exploration of the region’s more southerly highlights. Beyond the annual spectacular of the August Tanabata Festival, the city has little to keep the visitor for long, but within easy reach are the picturesque pine-clad islands of Matsushima Bay, designated as one of Japan’s ‘three great sights’. A gentle boat trip here allows visitors to experience first-hand the magical scenery that is said to have struck dumb Japan’s foremost poet, Bassho. Dewa-sanzan Dewa-sanzan is the collective name for the three holy mountains of Haguro-san, Gas-san and Yudono-san. The mountains gained their holy status over 1,400 years ago after the son of the reigning emperor made a pilgrimage to the area to practice severe aesthetic religious exercises which later became the founding principles of Shugendo Buddhism. Shugendo is an ancient blend of esoteric Buddhism, Chinese Taoism and Shinto deity worship and is practiced by the Yamabushi mountain priests, who link their religious practices strongly with the nature of the mountains. The Yamabushi are easily recognisable thanks to their distinctive garb of checked overshirts, billowing white trousers, straw sandals and small, peaked hats. The monks are now scattered all over the three mountains and you will most likely catch a glimpse of one scurrying up the mountain or at one of the many temples in the area. Dewa-sanzan is best explored over a number of days as there are some strenuous climbs, but if your time is more limited, then we recommend a hike to the top of either Mount Haguro or Mount Gas-san, both of which are around two hour ascents. Lakes and hot springs Much of Tohoku was once volcanic, resulting today in a number of scenic lakes and countless natural onsen resorts. With a hire car it is easy to strike out to Lake Towada in the north, one of Honshu’s most scenic lakes. Towada is hugely popular with local visitors during the turning leaf koyo season from mid-October, when the beech and maple-clad hillsides of the Oirase Valley turn spectacular shades of gold and crimson. From there, travel south to secluded onsen such as Aoni and Nyuuto, and then on to Tazawako, Japan’s deepest lake. In winter this region lies beneath metres of snow, but the lake never freezes, thanks, according to local legend, to the fiery dragon that lives beneath its surface. TSURUNOYU, NYUUTO ONSEN The Tsurunoyu ryokan is the oldest and most authentic ryokan in the area. It is truly enchanting, serving traditional food consisting of local mountain vegetables and fish cooked over a small irori fire pit, and offering an excellent outdoor onsen. There are several baths at the Tsurunoyu, each fed by a different source of water. There is also a large outdoor mixed-sex bath, which you are welcome to try if you are brave enough, but please do observe local etiquette! See page 13 for more information on Japanese customs. Ancient pagoda, Mount Haguro www.audleytravel.com/japan ● 01993 838 210 ● Northern Japan 25
Page 1 and 2: J APAN TAILOR- MADE J OURNEYS FOR T
Page 3 and 4: Introducing Audley After developing
Page 5 and 6: Nebuta festival float, Aomori Rail
Page 7 and 8: Audley in Central Japan 3 2 7 9 4 5
Page 9 and 10: Senso-ji Temple, Tokyo Sake casks,
Page 11 and 12: Hida Folk Village, near Takayama Ch
Page 13 and 14: Onsen bathing Traditional onsen, Ak
Page 15 and 16: Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion, Kyoto S
Page 17 and 18: Owner of Yoshikawa traditional inn,
Page 19 and 20: Suggested itineraries Kanazawa Taka
Page 21 and 22: Food display outside izakaya restau
Page 23: Audley in Northern Japan 2 3 2 1 4
Page 27 and 28: Suggested itineraries Tailoring you
Page 29 and 30: Autumn foliage at Daikozenji temple
Page 31 and 32: Audley in Southern Japan Awa Odori
Page 33 and 34: Suizenji Gardens, Kumamoto Harvesti
Page 35 and 36: Useful information Tohoku autumn co

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